View Full Version : My quarter-panel 'pops' in and out
This is on a 66 Impala Convertible so it never had the benefit of a roof structure.
Poor old car has obviously led a rough life, been hit a few times, abused, etc.
I'm doing a budget build up and learning some welding and body skills but this 'pop'ing thing has me beat.
In an area on the drivers rear quarter panel, above the body-line, there had been some kind of damage to the top and side. I can push on it with my palm and it pops in. I can then reach in the trunk and pop it out. In either position, there's gonna be a need for some body filler.
What can I do about that metal? I kinda want to heat it but I don't have an acetylene torch. I was hoping it would 'flow' into place. :)
When it's in or out, I do not see any "creases" that would seem to exacerbate or cause the problem.
What to do?
This doesn't really show the issue, but may help to visualize. It's that dark-ish area above the body line. We've already patched up the lower quarter and wheel lip.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/Ebay20Impala20Drivers20quarterpanel20003-1.jpg
You can actually see the popped area is 'in' from far away in this photo! :machine:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/Ebay20Impala20grinding2084small-1.jpg
jackfrost
02-06-2010, 07:17 AM
I'm a newbie w/ metalwork, but it would seem to me like it needs to be shrunk a little.
I have an OA torch if you want to borrow it...
elitecustombody
02-06-2010, 07:38 AM
you can use shrinking disk, it beats the price of torch setup , there are guys on ebay selling them , even heat gun will work,
oestek
02-06-2010, 11:55 AM
You have an "oil can", and yes, the metal just needs to be shrunk. You can probably find lots of how-tos on the net if you google shrinking metal.
Paint God
02-07-2010, 12:12 AM
ahhh, just pound it in and bondo it!
Paint God
02-07-2010, 12:13 AM
just kidding!
did you figure out how to fix your quarter
ahh, I had just sent you a PM Mr66!
I did so some reading up on the topic,....saw a Youtube video that was excellent as well.
Even though I was only using a propane-based radiant heater attachment, I think the 'oil can' problem is FIXED!
My new problem is that when this panel was "repaired" long ago they apparently beat the **** out of it with a hammer.......and a pointy one at that! Yeesh! This panel looks like an arial view of the Andes mountains.
I'm trying to hammer & dolly them but I'm new and there's over a dozen of them. Sometimes it's like fixing one valley causes an issue right next to what I'm trying to fix! Arrrrgh.
Dave T, I think I'd like to take you up on that OA. I'll PM ya.
I'll have to get a picture up here of what I'm fooling with now.
sunkistcamaro
02-09-2010, 09:20 AM
ahhh, just pound it in and bondo it!
Funny? thats what I had done to my car from a professional.
I put 1/4's on my car 19 years go, I was 17 yrs. The 1/4's acted like a "oil can". I didnt know what to do. I had a body man next door to where I was working on my car come over. He said, Oh this is easy to fix. He lit up a smoke and grabbed a body hammer and bashed above and below the body line. It was stiff as can be but really bad looking. I was in shock!! I just kept thinking, I dont have anymore $$ to buy another panel as he loaded up my panels with 1/2 a gallon of filler.
I wish I didnt go over to his shop...
elitecustombody
02-09-2010, 09:22 AM
Using pick hammer is a butcher way to shrink and control metal, so you might have to deal with more shrinking when you're done flattening those spots
wmhjr
02-09-2010, 10:02 AM
Some advice: When you're done, use some panel adhesive and reinforce the inside of those quarter panels BEFORE you block sand and paint. As bad as it is now, the "oil can" situation gets real nasty after you realized that while block sanding the flexing metal resulted in the panel not being prepped right. Even if you shrink it, panels like you're working on can be a real challenge.
matco makes a shrinking hammer pn-bh1535. be carfull with the torch if you dont know what your doing you can make it a whole lot worse.
ironhide
02-09-2010, 01:50 PM
Using a mig welder in the "oil can area" place a few tack welds . With a wet rag wipe the area to cool it fast . This will shrink the area . take your time .
You can all so stretch the outside of the oil can with a hammer and dolly a little at a time . Yet again take your time .
If you have a mig thats my favorite !
Never use a torch !!! The pick hammer would be a better choice in a pinch
MonzaRacer
02-10-2010, 05:13 PM
They make a shrinking hammer that twists as you hit this little unit ought to be named one of the best body tools of all times.
http://www.eastwood.com/twist-hammer.html
you guys are giving me great tips, thanks!
I wish I had some good *before* pictures of the 2 creases in the metal.
So, as I mentioned above, the oil-can effect is fixed but now I'm working on this mess. Believe it or not, it was worse! This is decent right now. I just need to work the two raised area's back down.
I'm hoping a shrinking disc will help here. Using a regular propane torch is a bit unpredictable so far.
It's not quite the surface of the moon, but it is a little like a pepperoni pizza.
FroopieLoopies
02-12-2010, 02:13 PM
Hey bro, I had the same problem, have you thought using a shrinking disk??
I almost bought one today actually. I saw one online at Wolfes and one at Eastwood. I think I'm stuck buying a 4.5" version instead of the larger one as that's the only grinder type I have.
Was hoping to get one locally instead of waiting on shipping, or to have someone like you chime in and say "a shrinking disc is exactly what you need BA!". :)
toxicz28
02-15-2010, 05:36 AM
Try checking out some of the metal shaping forums. :idea:There is a wealth of knowledge there from people who do this extensively.
http://www.google.com/#hl=en&source=hp&q=metal+shaping+forum&aq=5&aqi=g10&oq=metal+shaping&fp=baa94940edcea411
:1st:
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