700r4 "myths"

[jerrys85iroc]

Ok i was told if i hook up my 700r without plugging in the electronics that i wil still shift 1-4....but was later told this would screw up my torque convertor...what is the truth of what i have been told???

[megaladon6]

the electrical connector should only be for the lock-up of the torque converter. not using it can cause the trans to run hot, but i don't know if it'd be bad enough the break something--unless of course you're in the desert or something.
but, it doesn't cost power, saves a bit of gas and is easy enough to wire up w/out a computer.

[jerrys85iroc]

well im trying to lose as much electronic stuff as possible...but as long as the tranny will hold up till i can rebuild it or buy one someone has...

[6'9"Witha69]

Why? It is 1 wire from the brake switch. It doesn't have a lot of draw and is very good for hwy fuel efficiency and heat reduction. Heat is the biggest enemy of a 700, avoid it at all costs.

[critter]

I thought a 700r4 was a pressure controlled transmission, not electronic. The 4L60e is the electronic version.

[6'9"Witha69]

The only electronic on the 700 is the TC lockup.

[jerrys85iroc]

The only electronic on the 700 is the TC lockup.

yea...but i guess ill just hook it up then....

[jerrys85iroc]

Why? It is 1 wire from the brake switch. It doesn't have a lot of draw and is very good for hwy fuel efficiency and heat reduction. Heat is the biggest enemy of a 700, avoid it at all costs.

i thought i seen 4 wires on the piece i have...does anyone know how exactly you wire them up?

[406 Q-ship]

i thought i seen 4 wires on the piece i have...does anyone know how exactly you wire them up?

There is a four plug connector on the side of the 700r4, but it is unusual that all four of the connection get used. Most of the time one of the wires is a ground, another is a sensor feed back for the computer and then the TCC control signal. Now there is MANY various wiring inside the pan and you will need to look into what your transmission has inside. The trans will shift just fine without the converter hooked up (my truck currently isn't hooked up), as to converter issues I will say it all depends on what the rear end gear ratio. If your vehicle runs above the unlocked converter stall speed when going for freeway type driving, then running without the converter hooked up is not going to cause any heat issues. You can have the 700 set up without a lock up converter as a choice too.

[critter]

Ah! Now I understand. I ignored it because I was trying to run one built to run with a non-lockup converter.

[jerrys85iroc]

There is a four plug connector on the side of the 700r4, but it is unusual that all four of the connection get used. Most of the time one of the wires is a ground, another is a sensor feed back for the computer and then the TCC control signal. Now there is MANY various wiring inside the pan and you will need to look into what your transmission has inside. The trans will shift just fine without the converter hooked up (my truck currently isn't hooked up), as to converter issues I will say it all depends on what the rear end gear ratio. If your vehicle runs above the unlocked converter stall speed when going for freeway type driving, then running without the converter hooked up is not going to cause any heat issues. You can have the 700 set up without a lock up converter as a choice too.

Ok i see...well i guess i may hook it up a bit later and just run it without for the time being...Thanks guys for all the info!

[MonzaRacer]

Heck if its stock 700r4 lock up you simply kook it up or get one of the kits from TCI ot B&M or Summit/Jegs that has the pressure switch that screws into the valve body and you simply run a 12 volt wire to the trans, that way anytime your in od your locked up. or simply wire in a toggle switch, around town you wouldnt use it but if your in third or 4 flip the switch, better mileage and less tranny fluid heat.
Trust me your wallet and trans will love you for it.

[Samckitt]

I too would suggest getting the kit that has the pressure switch that screws into a side pressure port that is engaged when in OD, this completes the circuit to lock the torque converter. If you do the manual toggle switch inside the car somewhere, you will have to remember to turn it on & also turn off. If you forget, it will act kindof like a car with a manual tranny not pushing in clutch when coming to a stop. The torque converter will be a solid mechanical connection between motor & trans when locked.

[John Wright]

I too would suggest getting the kit that has the pressure switch that screws into a side pressure port that is engaged when in OD, this completes the circuit to lock the torque converter. If you do the manual toggle switch inside the car somewhere, you will have to remember to turn it on & also turn off. If you forget, it will act kindof like a car with a manual tranny not pushing in clutch when coming to a stop. The torque converter will be a solid mechanical connection between motor & trans when locked.

I agree....I've run just the toggle switch before and it does exactly like stated above...with the switch "on" it acts like a manual tranny when slowing for a stoplight. (bunka, bunka, bunka.....stall)

[framedoctor]

The wires should be violet, tan/black, Lt blue
Violet gets 12v pos (via the brake switch from fact), and tan/ black is ground switched (via computer) to lock up the converter.
You can find a tan/black in your ALDL under the dash. When wired from factory that tan/black is connected to the wire to the trans via the computer for diagnostic work.
The Lt blue is fourth gear select signal to the computer. On some cars the fourth gear select had two wires to the pressure switch and the switch simply connected them. The computer wouldn't lock the converter until it saw a predetermined temp.

[turbo kid]

Just lock up the converter with the wiring.