Color Sanding Help

[Smock67]

So im about to clear my Firebird after getting it painted about two days ago. The paint went down extremly nice and has an amazing satin shine to it would love to leave it just how it sits but, I will be clearing the car as I already have the materials. I am asking for any advice that anyone can give methat will help me make this paint job the best I possibly can.

I'm actually thinking of sanding down my base coat and laying down a little more paint since I have a lot of paint still. I know somewhat what I'm up for just looking for any other tips, tricks or advice in general.

[railin93]

if you leave the base for too long depending on manufacturer, you will miss your open coat deadline...then you really have no choice but to scuff and shoot another coat to give the clear a tooth to bite onto...the idea of sanding the base is a good one as it will eliminate any imperfections before clear but if it's a metallic, be careful you don't leave fine sand scratches under the new coats as the metallics will stand in them and show up really bad when its done...ask me how i know this...DBC500 i think is PPG's "intercoat" clear if you will and fills in the scratches somewhat to allow better layering and hopefully avoid the scratches showing up...when i did the cars i painted, i'd always go over my last coat of base with a fog coat and then hit it with a single coat of clear if i knew it was good and flashed if i was gonna do anything later or graphics or whatnot...to answer your question/advice, id go with 1000-1500 to get rid of trash and small peel, then tack, blow, and tack again before clearing it...three or four coats of clear and cut and buff that baby smooth!!!...hope it helps some...havent done it in awhile but its like riding a bike!

[manicmechanic]

I agree with railin93, except you have already missed your deadline on clearing the car. Most recommend an application in 1-12 hours after finale paint coat and 2 days already is too much. For the smoothest of looks and shine a sanding of the Seal Coat, Paint and Clear is what is needed. Don't think that sanding the paint and shooting another coat over it will be the smoothest, when you apply another coat over the color after a scuff, then sand it smooth and begin the clear process.

[Smock67]

Looked over the car today and will have to sand down the basecoat regardless as there are a few minute imperfections. So my plan of action as of right now is to wetsand it down with 600 and throw a few more coats on probably 3 so i can have a good layer of paint down, then start clearing.

So i have about 3/4 of a gallon of clear left this is the second time painting the car. I want it as "wet" as possible when its done. Im willing to put in all the work as far as sanding goes and I also have a buffer and compound.

So right now game plan is looking like sand the car down with 600 shoot a few probably 3 coats of base then sand this down with possibly 800 unless otherwise told. Tack, blow, tack, and shoot some clear and then beginning the sanding process with 1000 1500 then 2000.

[sniper]

Thicker paint is not a good idea. You want even coverage as thin as possible. Thick paint turns chips into craters.

Don't color sand the base before clearing, if you are having to do this, either it's shot wrong, or what's underneath is bad work. As already stateed you will definetly have to sand it now, though.

You can either base, flash and 3 coats of clear to sand and buff.

Or you can base, flash, shoot 2 or 3 coats of clear. Let it dry. Block the car down with something like an 800, even seen this done in 600. Then go back and shoot 3 more coats of clear.

That will give you plenty to block sand and buff without burning through.

To me, blocking out an initial 2 coats to a perfectly flat surface makes the final clear process much easier. But that is probably more a product of me not having to then sand the clear with anything less than 1500grit. I suck at getting out anything more course than that.

[BRIAN]

You should give a bit more info on what materials you used and what colors you have shot to get an accurate answer.

You shouldn't be sanding a base coat and can actually cause problems by doing so. The clear window is kind of a guide although I probably would scuff and reshoot a light coat. It depends on what base you used?? Catalyst or just reduced? Base coats should only be applied to provide coverage not to build or create a shine unless you are clearing a single stage paint??

The least coats is always the best as the more you apply the more chances of reaction or dirt in your paint. If you are seeing dirt in your base it will be 10x in clear so start cleaning where you are spraying.

Read tech pages and don't go by general info on the internet.

[Smock67]

I have used Shermin Williams Automotive products the whole time. The paint i sprayed is 4th dimension Basecoat code: 17, WA911L with a 2:1 mix of reducer. The clearcoat is FC720 Ultimate overall clearcoat. with a 4:1 mix with hardener. According to the data sheet given to me with the paint it says "if not clearcoated in 7 days scuff sand basecoat and reapply.

Color is Dark Tarnished Silver Metallic off the 2006 Solstice

[manicmechanic]

Read tech pages and don't go by general info on the internet.


That's the best answer right there, as I was going off of DuPont's product line and he now states he's using SW. Also the tech sheet shows a 7 day window instead of 12-24 that DuPont allows. I would also search the internet for SW tech sheets for all the materials you used, not just the base clear.

[67 ls1 vert]

I agree, read the specs given to you for the material you are using.

You dont want to use all the paint just because you have left over. All you need to do is cover the car evenly. Base is just color behind the clear. Your clear is what you want thicker.

Sand what you have with 800 grit. Anything less will have scratchs that you will have a hard time with. To fine of sand paper is not good either.

Once you have it sanded, re-shot the base and by the time you clean your gun and mix your clear up your base will have had time to flash.

Fix any small blems by wet sanding very carefully and spray your clear.

Skip this next step if you dont need it perfectly flat.
Dark colors really benifit from this step.

Put at least 3 coats on it and wait for a day or two and wet sand it with 600 with the longest board for the panel. What this will do is level the clear and base perfectly. You are not doing this to get rid of orange peel. This step is to make the panel perfectly straight.

Then re-clear the car with a couple more coats. Let dry to specs and cut and polish it.


This process works very well.



sanded after paint


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/1103091649a-1.jpg


After re-clear and cut and buff.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/1106092246-1.jpg


Is this what you are looking for?

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/1104091043-1.jpg

[Smock67]

well i ended up scuffing it back down yesterday with 800 as people had suggested. Cleaned the car, tacked and blown off. Sprayed 2 coats of clear and that where im at now. Jinx your advice is exactly what I was looking for now i need to go get a long board for sanding because i want mine to turn out like yours.

[manicmechanic]

For depth of shine, use a ruler and hold it upright against a panel and count the inches you can read clearly. Do this after your clear dries and before you cut and buff to see how much you improved it.