Qa1 Vs. Conventional front spring set up

[nicks67camaro]

For my winter project I wanted to tweek the front suspension. It is a road car but would like to do Light auto crosss / limited track days

1967 Camaro (SBC w/Al. Heads)
hotchkis front sway bar
SPC arms with tall ball joints
Lee Box
Gbar
Cage / SFC / and Solid bodymounts
Alignment +5 Caster / / -1/2 Camber / 1/16 toe in

I was going to pull the front coil overs QA1 (style that uses the oem spring pocket and sits on the shock body). I have read mixed reveiws and was thinking about switching them out. If i change I was going to go for the Afco spring adjusters w/ 9.5" 550 lbs spring and the Varishock shock. If i kept the Qa1 i would get the 550 replacement springs (I have the soft 350's) and have them rebuilt. The qa1's are the double adjustable kind and were a lot of money when i bought them.

The issues I'm having curently
1. Too soft spring
2. Inconsistant ride (probably spring related)
3. I hate have mixing and matching MFG (QA1 front and Varishock Rear)


If i go with the adjsusters and AFCO springs
1. Can use the Varishock front shocks
2. Better ride?
3. Matched MFG for consistency

Cost would be a wash since i need to buy springs and send the shocks out for a rebuild. I would probably sell the Qa1's to offset the new Varishock cost.

Am I over thinking this? What would you do?

Thanks

[Mkelcy]

I'm not a big fan of the quasi-coilover approach of the QA1's. Unless the spring mount in the subframe, the shock mount in the subframe and the shock mount on the LCA remain perfectly concentric throughout the LCA travel (I suspect they don't, but don't know), there's potential for side loading, stiction and inconsistent movement in the shock.

I use and recommend the AFCO spring adjusters and springs. You need to cut the helix in the adjuster to fit the subframe, but that's 20 minutes with masking tape and a cut-off wheel, with extra time for BS'ing. It's also REAL handy (but not a requirement) to weld a little 1/4-20 stud to the adjuster to hold it up against the frame while you're putting the rest of it together. I cut a notch in the adjuster, take a long, partially threaded 1/4-20 bolt and cut off the threads and a bit of the unthreaded shank, notch the shank and fit it to the notch in the adjuster and then weld the stud to the adjuster. There's an inspection(?) hole in the subframe that you can (if you've done it right) poke the stud through and run a nut on it.

The AFCO adjusters are not easily adjusted without undoing a balljoint, but I've pretty much gotten a ride height I'm happy with and leave it alone.

For me different brands of shocks front to rear aren't an issue as long as they're well matched to the springs and the suspension at the other end.

[ProdigyCustoms]

My vote is Hotchkis springs and Vari Shocks bolt in replacments. We sell a lot of the QA1 coil overs, but for cars that are raced / autocrossed, I like a full spring and seperate shock much better.

[nicks67camaro]

Mike / Frank thanks for the input. I was leading towards the full spring desgin but need someone to push me off the edge.

[LowBuckX]

I talked to QA1 a few eeks ago about my rear coilovers and asked if the front coil coversion hybrid thing would match with the rears I want and he told me Id be better off with a true coilover I asked him why and he put me on hold for another call and I got borred and hung up...lol.

[nicks67camaro]

I talked to QA1 a few eeks ago about my rear coilovers and asked if the front coil coversion hybrid thing would match with the rears I want and he told me Id be better off with a true coilover I asked him why and he put me on hold for another call and I got borred and hung up...lol.

I never had any reason to call them. But I did have to call Varishock (Marc from SC&C helped) b/c my dumb azz forgot to release both allen head locking screws for the rear coil over and went to adjust them and they leaked. Varishock rebuild them quickly and Marc service was great. I hate to spend money twice but this will be the last set up unless i go with an aftermarket sub.

[nicks67camaro]

[QUOTE=Mkelcy;601681]The AFCO adjusters are not easily adjusted without undoing a balljoint, but I've pretty much gotten a ride height I'm happy with and leave it alone.QUOTE]

I have my springs and adjusters in. Can you recommend a good start point for the adjuster setting?

[Mkelcy]

I have my springs and adjusters in. Can you recommend a good start point for the adjuster setting?

That's pretty hard to do becuase it will depend on spring rate, engine and transmission weight and what ride height you want. I'll take a look at mine and see where they are and that might give you a starting point.

[nicks67camaro]

thats cool just looking for a starting point fwiw its a SBC w/Alum Heads and t56. 550lbs rate springs.

Thanks again

[nicks67camaro]

Last week I installed the spring adjusters and springs new shocks and c5 brake upgrade. Went for a test drive and had a thund in the front. figured out my adjuster was cut just a little off. (only on one side)

I was unsure about the setup so i went and purchased http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HSS-1906F/ figuring i can sell which ever set up i don't like.

I have issues with each set up.......

The spring adjuster give minimal room for the shock to move under full droop the shock got very close to the side of the adjuster. Once under load it centered in the adjuster. Has any seen this as well?

So onto the hotchkis spring set up. I figured got to the conventional set up and went to install the spring into the lower and wouldn't you know it the OD of the spring was just bigger then the pocket. My BMR lower arms wouldn't accept the hotchkis spring. Awesome. Has any one else seen this before? I went to my factory lowers and the spring fit no problem.

Looks like I'm back to the adjuster set up. (I ground the adjuster to fit better)

The brand new shocks I purchased are now leaking. I don't know why there was no binding.

Any ideals on why the shocks are leaking? Before I think MFG couple questions

How freely should the lower mound move? I installed them with some grease but they are very firm.

I don't have droops stops. Under full droop when I was working it could this cause a leak?

Any thoughs/recommendations are appreciate. I can't win these days.

Thanks Nick