Project WidowMaker - The Chevelle Build Thread

[The WidowMaker]

About 3 years ago I decided to embark on this journey; build the baddest garage built p-t car that my skills and wallet would allow without farming out any work. “Skills” is a relative term for me since I’m a self taught 26 year old, married, father of two boys (2 years and 2 months). I’ve never had any official training, and while most who do everything on their own have an automotive background, I work for the Orange County Fire Authority as a professional firefighter. My job does require a vast mechanical knowledge, but that still doesn’t help me fabricate or paint. This has been a great learning experience so far and I can guarantee this; if its not done right the first time, I won’t stop until its perfect.

A little history; I originally bought the car when I was 16 and used it as my daily driver for both high school and college. I street raced the crap out of it, got a few tickets including an exhibition of speed for doing a massive burnout in front of a bus of cheerleaders, was yelled at a few times, then decided to grow up. Seeing the carnage that I see now makes me feel lucky to be alive and I feel like an old man every time I want to yell at some idiot kid doing the same things that I used to do.

Over the years, I built a new motor, rebuilt the trans and rear end, and took on numerous other projects. But, the car never felt complete and every time I attempted to change something about it, it ruined something I had done before. There were plans along the way for a new paint job, interior and a big block, but time passed and the money wasn’t there. It wasn’t until I had a stable career, the funds and had bought a house, that I finally decided to do it once and to do it right.

Below you will find the specs, pics and progress from my chevelle build. The car has come along way in the last 3 years and it still has a long way to go. The whole story isn’t in complete order and some pics may show things that haven’t been talked about, but you should be all caught up by the end.

Have fun reading, and I welcome any and all critiques and criticisms. It’s the only way I know how to learn.

-Build Specs-


-Motor-

- Wegner or Mast Motorsports 416
- Autokraft Oil Pan & Motor Mounts
- Wegner Pulley System
- Edelbrock Stepped Headers
- Custom 304 Stainless Steel Full Length Exhaust with X Pipe
- PRC Radiator with Dual Fans and Oil Cooler


-Suspension & Steering-

- ATS Billet Aluminum Spindles and Steering Arms (I got these a while ago)
- SC&C Front Upper Control Arms
- Global West Front LCA’s
- Varishock Coilover Rear Shocks
- Custom Parallel 4 Link Rear Suspension
- Custom Upper & Lower Rear Control Arms with Johnny Joints
- Custom Watts Link Axle Locator
- Currie Enterprises Performance Axles
- Custom ½ Height Body Bushings
- Tom Lee 670 Steering Box
- Ididit’s New Collapsible Steering Column (not just a collapsible shaft)


- Drivetrain -

- Tremec T56 Magnum 6 Speed Transmission
- McLeod Bellhousing
- McLeod Billet Steel Flywheel
- McLeod RXT Twin Clutch
- Somebody’s Hydraulic T/O Bearing
- Denny’s Drive Shaft
- 1350 U- Joints


- Wheels & Brakes -

- 19x9.5” / 20x11“ 3 Piece Rushforth Wildside Wheels
- 275/35/19 and 305/35/20 Nitto Tires
- 14” 6 Piston Kore 3 Front Brakes
- 13.5” 4 Piston Kore 3 Rear Brakes
- DBA Slotted Rotors
- Wilwood Pedals and Triple Master Cylinders


- The Extra’s -
- ISIS Mutiplex Wiring System
- Vintage Air A/C
- Ring Bros Hood Hinges
- Ring Bros Hood Adjusters
- Ring Bros Door Strikers

Special thanks to the following:

Jason Rushforth – Wheels And Rendering
Jon Henderson @ Driverzinc - Numerous Parts And The Rushforth Wheels and Nitto tires. This guy knows his stuff and has been EXTREMELY patient with me.
Tobin @ Kore3.com – C6 Z06 Brake Kit Including the Parking Brake and the ability to pick his brain.
Mark @ SC&C – I’ve had many LONG conversations with him, but he supplied the ATS stuff along with the LEE box and SPC arms

[The WidowMaker]

These are a couple of before pictures. Although I took tons of pics to remember where parts went, I made the mistake of not taking enough overall pics. Here are a few that I have.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/FT104Project-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/IMG_1762-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/IMG_1818-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/Picture011-1.jpg

[The WidowMaker]

The first thing I did was start to repair and replace the ugly sheet metal. Having a vinyl top killed the metal on this car. I started by cutting out all of the bad parts, and welding in a bunch of patch panels. When I was good and satisfied with a job well done, and a lot of time invested, I cut off the panels and put on two new quarters (you’ll start to see a theme forming). Here are some pics of the original repairs, and then of the new quarters.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/Picture003-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/Picture004-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/Picture006-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/Picture4004-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/IMG_0462-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/CopyofIMG_0115-1.jpg

[The WidowMaker]

These are some pics from when I thought I was done with the frame. I built a temporary booth in my back yard with 3 positive pressure fans and filters on the intake and exhaust sides. I used all of SPI products, other than the PPG gray paint. The red is called “SPI Red”. I shot all my primers, including the feather fill with an Astro gun with 1.5 and 2.0 tips. I used a SATA 3000 RP digital for all the base and clear. This was my first time shooting automotive paint, and my first time shooting anything this large. Other than small wood lacquer projects, I had no experience with a gun.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/IMG_1892-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/IMG_1907-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/IMG_2470-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/IMG_2877-1.jpg

[The WidowMaker]

Here are some of the frame rebuild pics. A few things have led to the almost complete rebuild, but the ride height was the main item. I really couldn’t drop the car to where I wanted without a major overhaul, so after spending all that time painting the frame, it got cut and ground back up.

So a “few” things happened in order to make the ride height happen. The first issue was that the short springs I put in the rear just weren’t short enough. In order to get it to a good ride height, it took 600 lbs in the trunk. At this point, the springs were almost compressed, and the top and bottom perches weren’t lining up (the top and bottom perches were perpendicular to the ground, but they were about 3” off fore and aft from each other). So, I decided that if I had to get rid of the stock spring perches, I would convert to coilovers in the rear.

In addition to the issues with the springs, the geometry of the stock suspension went to crap at the lowered ride height. My antisquat was through the roof, and I had introduced roll steer with the angle of the lca’s in addition to raising my RRCH even further. So I designed some new axle brackets that did a few things; first they allowed multiple height adjustments for the lca to change anti squat and roll steer, plus they also adapted the Chris Alston’s chassis works shock mounts with ride height adjustment for the coilovers. 40 hours of Corel Draw (a lot of different ideas) and $200 in waterjetting later, this solved both the geometry and the shock issues.

The other issue with the stock suspension was the converging upper control arms. To eliminate the binding associated with this suspension, I fabbed up some new uca’s and mounted them parallel with the frame centerline. They also have adjustments in height at the front and rear for antisquat, and they are of course adjustable for pinion angle adjustments. Since the UCA’s no longer controlled side to side axle migration, I built a watts link. I looked into a phb before I considered the watts, but packaging was still a nightmare and there were other inherent issues with it as well. One of those issues became apparent while talking with Mark. He had a customer that kept ripping his phb mounts off the frame. He wasn’t breaking the welds, he was tearing the frame itself. In addition to that, if the frame didn’t have a crossmember, it was likely that the side with the frame mount for the bar would actually get sucked in during hard cornering. So since I needed a crossmember to keep all of that from happening (plus I needed one for the coilovers anyways), the only difference between the two systems was the cradle. After doing a whole bunch of mockup and searching for ideas, I ended up with something that resembles the lat dynamics 3 link setup.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Once all the welding was done on the housing, I shipped it off (well, actually I drove it) to Currie to have it narrowed and have 9” ends welded on. They gave it back to me set up with new axles, straightened and with the gears setup.

[The WidowMaker]

So once all of that got sorted out, the next problem and solution arose; there wasn’t enough clearance between the axle housing and the frame. I started by taking a couple of inches out of the frame and sort of c-notching it, but with a twist. Both sides have 3/16” plate and the job netted me about 2” more clearance. There also wasn’t enough clearance between the pinion and the frame, so when I built the new crossmember, I made sure to add the clearance necessary.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[The WidowMaker]

As I began to get more and more work done on the frame, I couldn’t help but notice all of its flex. With the frame on the rotisserie and one sides rotation locked, I could take the other side and actually twist the frame a good amount. WAY more than I had ever thought possible with such little effort. So I started to look into it. I found that most people consider the chevelle a unibody with a complete frame. Meaning, that the body supplies most of the resistance to twist. To remedy this I started to look into what the aftermarket was doing. The first was that nothing comes with c channel anymore, so away it went and now the center section is boxed. The next thing is the inner webbing. Most will argue that a third dimension is needed in order to combat the twist, and only a roll cage will do this, not the webbing. But from my testing of the twist on the rotisserie, I found that it again greatly reduced after I had already welded the c-channel and while only having the webbing tacked in. Was it worth it? I don’t really know. It added weight, but it also added another crossmember, and that in it self helps with the twist. It will also GREATLY help if I’m t-boned and the car hitting me actually contacts the frame, not just the body.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[The WidowMaker]

Next are some shots of the swaybars. I got all of my parts from speedway, and they are great to work with. I figured my rates using the free trial of the suspension analyzer program. It spit out some numbers based on my inputs. They are a starting point and will be swapped out for other bars if needed. The rear bar mounts to the frame, and the adjustable links then mount to the axle. It still needs the corners of the axle mounts rounded, and I’m going to machine some more out of the arms. They were about a foot longer, but were cut to fit the limited space. They are way too beefy for the job they are doing.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

The front bar required custom pillow blocks and delrin bushings to be made. It took me a little while, but aluminum and delrin are easy to work with. The speedway arms also have to be bent to fit the around the tires, frame and springs. For me, a simple ~30* bend was all that was necessary. The arms will attach to the global west lowers via a custom little mount and have adjustability for different rates (that project to come next week since my endlinks were special ordered). The endlinks are qa1 xm series rod ends with a built in stud.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[The WidowMaker]

The motor was originally going to be mounted with the frame stands in the stock location. But after looking at all the room behind the heads, it got moved back. It doesn’t really help with weight distribution very much (moving a battery is way more advantageous), but it looks a little better. I then ran into the issue with both the header to ground clearance, and the tie rod to autokraft pan. In order to solve both of these problems, I actually lifted the motor within the chassis. Automatically this will make you think that the cog was raised, but by raising the motor 1”, I was able to lower the front of the car 1 more inch. This left the cam height to ground the same, but lowered everything else. It also cleared up my tie rod issue.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[The WidowMaker]

Then the work started on the body. Again because of the dropped height, raised motor, and proper drive shaft angles, I had to make multiple changes. I thought that I was going to be able to get away with cutting a little out of the tranny tunnel for the tremec, but it turned out to be a whole lot more than that. I started by cutting out the entire tranny tunnel, and fabbing up a new piece that fit over the tranny once the proper angles were established. I then welded it in, and continued by cutting out the entire driveshaft tunnel. The driveshaft was about 1” away from the stock tunnel at ride height, so it was raised a good amount. I was originally going to leave it all spot welded, but I ended up solid welding it with all the welds ground down and finished. I was amazed at how much more rigid the floor was with the added height of the tunnel acting as a backbone.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[The WidowMaker]

The next items to be addressed were the tubs. At ride height, not only did I not have enough vertical clearance, but the tires were starting to come into contact with the first lip of the tubs (see pic). I’m not sure what the purpose of this was, but it would have required the tires to be sucked in with a lot of clearance to the quarters, and I hate this look. I cut them out completely and fabbed up some new pieces. I used a wood form to create a 1” radius on the edges which I think gives them a better appearance. They also fit tight to the quarters, and do not just go straight up from the wheel lip. This gave me gobs of extra room over what the stock tubs offered. I probably have over 50 hours in these, but they were well worth it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[The WidowMaker]

After getting all the floor work done, minus the trunk (still to come), I started on the firewall. I wanted a shaved firewall from the start, so that’s what I did. I used a piece of 16ga and cut it out to fit. It’s welded around the entire outside, along with all the little plug welds. It really rattled until I welded up the plugs, so I’m glad I drilled all those holes to start. It’s a solid THUD now. I will have to modify the area around the master cylinders. I originally welded it so that it flowed with the existing portion of the firewall, but this will most likely end up flat like the rest in order to mount the 3 M/C’s. I also wish I had access to a really good bead roller to put some character in this piece, but it is what it is with the tools I have on hand. I had used the cheap HF bead roller to make the rear seat piece, but there was no way it was doing more than 20 ga.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[The WidowMaker]

I also cut off most of the lip around the cowl and welded in some ¼” rod. This cleaned it up a bunch. It was wavy and the overlapping pieces were uneven in stock form. Now it is nice and smooth. Its amazing how little things really can clean an area up. This is going to need a lot of work prior to paint, but it was about 2 hours to this point. Making the top smooth will be easy, but making the firewall transition into this will require a few hours of welding, grinding, sanding, filling…………
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[The WidowMaker]

Well, that about sums up what has been done so far. There is still a whole list, but it’s getting smaller. My next projects include the transmission mount, pedals and mc’s, the steering column and the trunk floor. I am having Hector build me a custom tank, and because I hate the way the tank hangs down so much stock, I’m going to raise the trunk floor to give the back a little cleaner look. I don’t want to hide the art that those guys do, but I don’t want all my suspension work hiding either.

My goal is to have the frame back in paint and completely assembled by the beginning of next summer, with threat of death for swapping any more parts for something else newer and cooler. I also hope to have all the panels fit and gapped, sanded to bare metal, primed and rough blocked by the end of summer. The funds for the motor and interior may slow things down, but expected completion is sometime in 2011.

[srh3trinity]

This would be an impressive build regardless of where it was built, but throw in the fact that you are doing this in a garage and learning as you go and it really ups the ante.

[CruizinKev]

wow awesome project so far! :twothumbs :twothumbs

[67speedfreak]

Build looks great. love the tunnel!

Brian

[mc84_zz4]

Badazz project and good progress, I'll be following this one for the duration.
I really appreciate a garage build, it's my way too.
Like the structural work on the frame - Niiiiice.

[bmwwksmarc]

Love the garage floor! Awsome build man, you are showing some serious talent with all that fabrication and some pretty nice welding!!

Marc

[WS6]

I want to build my TA up like this. Very nicely done. I love seeing stuff like this come together.

[HWY Nova]

Great documentation of your project!!!!!!

Please keep the pics coming.



--Eric

[LeighP]

I agree....terrific fabrication work going on there...this will be an awesome ride when its done.

[70 Chevelle]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/IMG_4699-1.jpg

Perfect :cheers: What size rear tire is that?

[Roadbuster]

Lots of attention to details! Awesome work Tim!

Jon

[transamguy79]

beautiful build man. you have a talent man.

[The WidowMaker]

thanks for all the positive feedback. it seems weird posting my stuff up on this forum next to all the quality builds i've been following. if it looks even half as good, i'll be more than happy.


What size rear tire is that?

its a nitto 305/35/20. the only tires that i have currently mounted are the old 295/50/15's, and theres about 1.5" to the fender lip, and about 3/4 to the inside at very front of the tire which is the tightest point. i should easily be able to sink the nto5 315's when i wear these out. if it wasnt dropped as much, i think i could get a 335, but stance is more important to me than that extra inch of width. i might do a little more work to the frame when i get the 305's mounted if i think it will get me 335's. i'll have to wait and see though.

Tim

[Motown 454]

Awesome job!

[SCOTTS66]

You are doing an incredible job.Its awesome to see someone overcome so many problems by fabricating exactly what they want,and have it come out looking engineered.Quality.I can tell you have put a ton of thought and time into this.Keep the pics and details posted.

[1badchevelle]

on the back on seat section did you remove the stock metal or just weld over it?

[The WidowMaker]

on the back on seat section did you remove the stock metal or just weld over it?

all the rear seat metal was removed, and new pieces welded in. the old stuff was cut out about 8 years ago when i put a cage in it, and ran a sub box up against the rear seat. its going to be interesting to get seats to fit this since its not stock and i didnt have anything to reference the correct angle, but that will just be another "fun" project to tackle.

[SCOTTS66]

all the rear seat metal was removed, and new pieces welded in. the old stuff was cut out about 8 years ago when i put a cage in it, and ran a sub box up against the rear seat. its going to be interesting to get seats to fit this since its not stock and i didnt have anything to reference the correct angle, but that will just be another "fun" project to tackle.
After seeing your fabrication skills,I think fitting the rear seat will be childs play.

[crystalss]

Pro-Talent!
Impressive work, love the stance. Thank you for posting pics!

[WTRacing]

AMAZING build man, LOVE the attention to detail and all the pictures

[1badchevelle]

Gto rear seats?

[The WidowMaker]

Gto rear seats?

im not sure yet. im a few months away from that decision, but its a possibility. i still need to work on 3pt seat belts. i currently have a set of corbeau seats that i ran for a while, but i might look into something with the shoulder harness built in.

what are your plans?

[The WidowMaker]

i started on the tranny mount today, and will hopefully have it done by the end of the weekend. im fabbing it out of 3 pieces; two that are solidly welded to the webbed structure, and a center drop out piece about 10" long. this will enable me to keep the exhaust tucked up even with the bottom of the webbing for the most ground clearance, and i wont have to touch the exhaust or struggle with a crossmember when getting the tranny out.

[1badchevelle]

This by far is the best home built car I have seen. Maybe because its a chevelle

[MoparCar]

Nice build. Very nice. Great fab.
Do you have any additional pictures of how you built the rear tubs with the form? Two piece form or one piece hammer form with some hammer/dolly work?

Thanks, Wes

[clu269]

I am in the process of a build similar to yours. It is a 1970 Buick GSX dubbed GSXMAX. It will be completely built in my 2 car garage. It is amazing how close our frames are with the exception that mine is a three link. My frame is also boxed and has DOM tubing to stiffen frame. Jason also did my rendering. Your fab work is awesome. Maybe you missed you calling. Keep up the great work as you are helping show that professional cars can be built in our garages.

[The WidowMaker]

Do you have any additional pictures of how you built the rear tubs with the form? Two piece form or one piece hammer form with some hammer/dolly work?


no pictures that i could find, but it was one form. the tubs are 6 pieces. two 1" radiused, one top over the tire, 2 sides and a 90* piece that was formed to fit the wheel opening and to connect to the quarter like the factory tub.

the form was plywood about 3" thick and i routed a 1" radius on each side. the main work was done on the shrinker/stretcher (i have the cheap hf one, and i only have one body and 2 jaws = crap load of time changing back and forth). i hammer formed them a little where needed.

hope that helps.

[The WidowMaker]

I am in the process of a build similar to yours. It is a 1970 Buick GSX dubbed GSXMAX. It will be completely built in my 2 car garage. It is amazing how close our frames are with the exception that mine is a three link. My frame is also boxed and has DOM tubing to stiffen frame. Jason also did my rendering. Your fab work is awesome. Maybe you missed you calling. Keep up the great work as you are helping show that professional cars can be built in our garages.

i checked out your thread and they are very similar. i cant wait to see updated pics. oh, and your rendering is awesome. jay is a very talented guy and was great to work with. my rendering looks awesome, but my main color has changed. i'll have him make some changes once i get my mind made up.

[craigs73]

this is a very cool project i like how you show all your progress with the pics great work cant wait to watch this all the way until its done once again great work

[The WidowMaker]

i didnt complete the trans mount yet, although i was hoping to have it done by today. the 3 piece crossmember is all tacked and bolted in, so all thats left is the actual bracket to bolt the mount to the crossmember. hopefully it will be done on tuesday.
Tim

[MZ 500]

Wow Nice welding and fab work the stance of the car looks good to.

[jackfrost]

awesome project. I'm essentially doing the same thing, teaching myself and doing everything myself in my 2 car garage. you're a lot farther along, though, so I can get ideas from your build!

[Phishfud]

Wow! I'm so jealous. You have mad skills, man! Wish my Chevelle would turn out like that!

[Wicked58]

My....Lord!!! What a great write-up! Great attention to detail! There is a lot to absorb in your post, but after reading it a few times, I've got some great ideas/new direction on my project.

Keep up the great work!

[68400BIRD]

Great job, I love all of the small details. Keep the pics coming it helps keep the rest of us motivated.

[The WidowMaker]

My....Lord!!! What a great write-up! Great attention to detail! There is a lot to absorb in your post, but after reading it a few times, I've got some great ideas/new direction on my project.

Keep up the great work!

honestly, this is where i get most of my ideas. if i hadnt stumbled upon this site a few years back, i would probably have just done a stock style rebuild.

thanks for all the comments, it helps me keep this thing going.

[gearheads78]

Looks pro built to me....Keep it up.

[41565 chevelle]

Tim,
Looks good buddy. Now I am going to have to find the time and throw mine in here.....

Looks great, if you are in town this holiday I'll give you a fly-by!

[The WidowMaker]

how about a ride? jk... ive been trying to get a ride in one of our 2 new $21 million 412's, but they just blew a tranny in the first and the second is down for its pm. that leaves us the 2 vietnam era single engine beasts. plus they always bring up the budget with the enormous fuel costs.

oh, and you need to get your project posted on here. you can still keep that rendering a secret, but we would all love to see the work youre doing.

Tim

[The WidowMaker]

not much to update. i finished the trans mount last week, but with the threat of fires and rain (go figure) here in socal, i picked up a few ots. good thing is they pay for the parts. bad thing is the car doesnt get worked on. i get home on monday and hopefully will be able to post some pics.

also, ballistic fab sent me my tracking number, so i should get the rest of the front sway bar done when the end links show up. i'll pull off the lca's and get the mounts welded up. pics to come!

Tim

[The WidowMaker]

here are a couple of pictures of the trans crossmember. as i said before, i built a drop out center section thats about 3/4" wider than the trans on either side. since im doing a custom exhaust, i'll place here are a couple of pictures of the trans crossmember. as i said before, i built a drop out center section thats about 3/4" wider than the trans on either side. since im doing a custom exhaust, i'll place the X far enough back that i wont have to drop the exhaust or struggle with the crossmember when i need to get the tranny out. hopefully that wont happen, but it will make it easier if it does.
the crossmember is about 1/4" from the floor since i wanted to make sure that my 220 lbs wont make the floor touch it.

also, the side pieces are just tacked in since i will remove them to notch them for the exhaust and do some final welding. i plan on welding a strap on each side to thicken the tabs that the bolts go though. i had to cut more away than i thought, so it will be cheap insurance.
do you like my spacers? it needed WAY shorter bolts than i thought......
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/IMG_6709-1.jpg?t=1259632206
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/IMG_6711-1.jpg?t=1259632207
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/IMG_6714-1.jpg?t=1259632208

[41565 chevelle]

Tim,
I like the mounting idea, especially the drop out advantage. Looks like I am going to have to steel another idea from here....! I'm almost there.

What size rectangle tube did you use on that? Are you just butt welding them all the way around where each piece meets or do you have small pieces inside for any additional support?

Once I get some time I will get my project up on here...it is mostly reformatting the pictures to fit.

As for the ride, some day when the policy changes... I will let you know!

[WS6]

very nice Tim. Where did you get your fab skills? I think they are top notch.

[454bug]

Man, that is some EXCELLENT metal work!!! :1st:

The car looks AWESOME!

Keep up the great work!! :headbang:

[The WidowMaker]

What size rectangle tube did you use on that? Are you just butt welding them all the way around where each piece meets or do you have small pieces inside for any additional support?

i used 1.5 x 3" .120 and 1.5" .120 dom. the cut was actually a pie, so the top side is still there. the 3 other sides will be butt welded. if i had made a full cut, i probably would have reinforced it on the inside a little.


very nice Tim. Where did you get your fab skills? I think they are top notch.

its all trial and error. i used to have to remake everything, but im slowly getting better.

[clu269]

What size DOM did you use to stiffen the chassis? I have 1.5" tacked in place ready to weld. Do you think that is sufficent?
Thanks Clu

[The WidowMaker]

i used 1.75" .120. i thought about using 1.5" for the webbed portion, but just did it all out of the same material. obviously the bigger the better, but anything will help. i dont have scientific results, but it stiffened it up on the rotisserie, even after the frame was boxed.

if its all tacked up, just run what you have. youll end up with a little more clearance as well.

Tim

[The WidowMaker]

i have a few days off this week and ballistic fab sent me the end links, so i decided to get the sway bar done. i ran into a little snag though. at full lock and slightly before full compression there is a bind between the steering arm and end link. i cant ever think of a scenario where this would be possible, but either way i want it gone.

the issue starts with the fact that i got the rod ends with studs installed. i did this since it eliminated the number of parts required, but it positions the rod end further from the mounting hole. although the clearance required between the outside of the studded rod end and mounting hole, and the head of a bolt on a non studded rod end and the mounting hole are the same, thats not where the arms are coming into contact. i need to remove the studs tomorrow and install with bolts. this will get rid of the bind.

here are a couple of pics at full lock. i dont see how i would ever have this much compession at this point, even going over a speed bump or a driveway approach.

this is ride height with the spindle straight forward

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/IMG_6746-1.jpg?t=1259893263

still straight but you can see the space the stud offsets the joint.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/IMG_6747-1.jpg?t=1259893181

and bind. you cant see it, but the contact is at the base of the joints head. i can lengthen it even more if necessary. a bolt wouldnt contact, and it would give me over 1/4" more clearance.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/IMG_6753-1.jpg?t=1259893184

i also need to finalize the lowers point once i get the upper situated. ive already moved it a few times as you can see from all the tacks.

more to come tomorrow.

[The WidowMaker]

not much to update. i had to make a couple more bends in the arm, but it clears to full bump and lock. it doesnt look as good as i had hoped, but it works, and thats what should matter most. i now have to make the other side match.

i also took advantage of the bing.com 10% discount and bought the wilwood pedals, 3 mc's and an ididit steering column from summit. the parts showed up yesterday, so that will be the next project to come as soon as the damn sway bar is finished.

Tim

[Nessumsar]

Gadzooks! Looking pretty sweet Tim. Where in HB are you, I work at Bolsa and Edinger.

[41565 chevelle]

Tim,
I was overhead the other day and you were doing some welding out on the driveway.... Glad to see you are getting time to do some work. I want to come and check out the Willwood parts and hold em'. Thats what I want to do on mine....

[Ratty 46]

Super job so far ..... I'm impressed!

The center frame work mirrors what I've drawn up for my '46. Not sure yet ... but the big rollers in the back have inspired me to CUT more trunk space .....

Again - great direction & follow through.

Ratty 46

[73lt4]

How does the 10% discount through Bing.com work?

[The WidowMaker]

Where in HB are you, I work at Bolsa and Edinger.

right at magnolia and garfield. do you ever head down to the donut shop?


I want to come and check out the Willwood parts and hold em'. Thats what I want to do on mine....

any time...... they are a little different in size than i had anticipated, so it might be a good idea.


How does the 10% discount through Bing.com work?

do a search on "bing ebay cashback" and start reading. there are a lot of little details that must be followed, but if you do everything correct they will pay you in 60 days. ive saved a little over $500 so far. last year at this time it was 35% and right now its actually 15%. it went up since i bought my stuff. if it goes up some more i'll be getting some more stuff.

Tim

[The WidowMaker]

here are some new pics of the sway bar. i had to add a couple of bends, but i clear through full travel at full lock. i still need to final weld the lower mount, but its pretty much done. next time i'll just spend the $800 on the dse bar.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/IMG_6812-1.jpg?t=1260148756

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/IMG_6814-1.jpg?t=1260148759

[The WidowMaker]

here are some pics of the brake and clutch setup. 7/8 and 1" for the brakes and 3/4" for the hydraulic t/o bearing. im running the c6 z06 setup from tobin at kore3 and will running without a booster. i have never had manual brakes, but thats how this is going to be set up.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/IMG_6822-1.jpg?t=1260149000


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/IMG_6825-1.jpg?t=1260149003


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/IMG_6827-1.jpg?t=1260149006


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/IMG_6830-1.jpg?t=1260149011


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/IMG_6832-1.jpg?t=1260149018

[WS6]

Tim, how often does the Bing thing change? I just checked out the gauges I want and they are at 8% cash back on ebay. Does it fluctuate based on what you purchase or where you buy? Just trying to decide if I should press my luck and wait for it to go up. Also to understand why you have it at 15% and I'm only seeing 8%. I'm poor and cheap so saving money rocks.

So for the detour from the thread but this is the first I've heard of this.

[The WidowMaker]

Just trying to decide if I should press my luck and wait for it to go up. Also to understand why you have it at 15% and I'm only seeing 8%. I'm poor and cheap so saving money rocks.


i actually have more pics to post, but when i searched a couple of hours ago it was now up to 20%. i just spent over 600 bucks through summit on various 304 stainless bends and the mufflers to complete the exhaust. over $120 saved and microsoft is footing the bill.

go to "cashbackr.com" and move your mouse over the scroll down menu on the top right side that says "bing.com ebay cashback". it has a few options; cashback trend, etc, but the one you want is cashback keywords. this site searchs those words and gives you up to date percentages. i usually use "wii" or "cheap wii". it just so happens that tonite the first is at 15% and the second is at 20%. once you click on the link and go to ebay, you can search for whatever you want, meaning you dont have to buy a wii and you dont have to search for what you want through bing. they just want the searches to promote their new search engine.

REMEMBER!!!!! you can only use it on buy it now items within 60 minutes of searching bing, you HAVE to use paypal and you can only make one purchase at a time. if you need 2 of something, you can change the quantity to 2 or 4 etc..... and it still works because it counts as 1 purchase. you just cant buy a muffler then go buy set of tires without closing out ebay, re searching "wii" through bing and relinking to ebay. again, they want the searches for bings numbers.

all of my cashback has taken 60 days, but mine has all worked. there are a lot of people that have had problems, so dont come kill me if you are one of the unlucky ones. getting ahold of bing customer service is a nightmare, so my advice is to purchase what you can already afford, and if they credit you the % its an added bonus.



********make sure to read all terms on ebays site before using**********
http://pages.ebay.com/cashbackoffer/terms.html
*
*
*
*
*
*

[The WidowMaker]

here are the pics of the column. i did a lot of research before buying this column, so i hope it works as planned. since im running the isis system, i dont plan on having a key for the ignition, but rather the key fob and a start button. therefore, i wanted a smooth floor shift column in bare steel that i will spray later. the 70 chevelles use a 32x2, but the part number is a retrofit column with the key. so i found two others that would fit;

1120320010
1120680010

those two only differ by about 30 bucks in price but the second is made to fit the earlier chevelles and 68 camaro. it comes with a piece welded on that the factory mount bolts to. im just hoping that mine is the same.

the other dilema was that ididit just released a collapsible column. it has inner bearings, and when struck from the top or bottom, it will collapse up to 2.5". thats a pretty big deal. although my chevelle will have a collapsible intermediate shaft, there is nothing that absorbs the impact of my chest in an accident. so, this sounded like a great idea. i called them and got the pricing; 427 for the column, 79 for the dash mount and 30 for the firewall mount. shipped out the door i was looking at a little less than a $200 difference. that small amount seemed well worth it to me, and my wife was actually pushing me towards it. but what pushed me away was that i didnt feel that there was any real testing done by them. they said that the testing was done in house and that it was designed by the owner. through the information i gathered, it uses a friction style mount that will start to slide at ~550lbs +/- 100 which was the same as the factory column. what i wasnt able to ascertain was whether the force required to continue to accelerate the column increased, decreased or stayed constant and how that compared to the factory spec.

i guess all im saying is that if they had some outside lab show that this column was equal or superior to the factory column, it would have been a no brainer. but since it required a lot more fab work, and i was left with questions unaswered, you can see my non collapsible column below.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/IMG_6838-1.jpg?t=1260161282

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/IMG_6839-1.jpg?t=1260161284

[The WidowMaker]

here are some of the pics of the exhaust parts. i went with the 304 stainless bends made by pypes and available from summit. 4-30* and 2-90* in 3" for the x pipe and 4 combo bends in 2.5" for the tailpipes. i would have been better off getting individual bends for the 2.5" stuff, but i thought the combo bends would provide a little more, or at least the same amount of material to work with, but i was wrong. the individual bends are 24" and the combos are 36", and the combo is the same price as 2 individual bends. go figure.

i also went with the stainless flowmaster 50 series deltas. i ran the 40 deltas previously on the car, and im running a single 50 delta on my silverado with a 5.3 and love/d both. my wife wanted slightly quiter than the 40's, so the 50's were the next choice. i looked into magnaflow and dynomax, but i cant say that i like that sound. i couldnt find one clip where i thought that they sounded good. im not a fan of the original 40 series either, but i love the mellower sound of the deltas.

i still need to puchase the straight pipe, but at 10 bucks a foot im going to hold off a little more until i know what i need.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/IMG_6853-1.jpg?t=1260556429

[The WidowMaker]

here are some pics of the stock collapsible column dash mounts for my 70. i have now verified that all cars sold after jan 1, 1968 had to have a collapsible column, not just a collapsible intermediate shaft. ididit is currently working on redesigning all of their columns to meet this standard.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/IMG_6854-1.jpg?t=1260589761

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/IMG_6862-1.jpg?t=1260589763

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/IMG_6863-1.jpg?t=1260589766

[The WidowMaker]

deleted

[WS6]

I believe that technically, the collapsible columns where the ones where the steering shaft that actually goes through the unit is two pieces and the one piece slides into the other upon impact. I'm almost positive on this as c2 vettes have a straight shaft going from the steering wheel to the box and C3 have it in two pieces like I mentioned and I'm not referring to the telescoping option

[The WidowMaker]

see post #74

[gearbanger]

My 67 pontiac has a collapsible column. The shaft is telescopic and is frozen in position by hard plastic that is injected into special cavities that lock it in position unless an impact breaks the plastic loose. The outer shell is collapsible because a portion of the tube is made of wire mesh basically that would collapse in the event of an impact.

[gearheads78]

67 was the first year for collapsible on all GM A-bodies. Sounds like Ididit needs to educate the phones guys better.

[The WidowMaker]

i called ididit today and they are working on something. not sure if its going to be the new collapsible version of the chevelle retrofit column, or if they are just going to make something up for me. they sounded like they wanted to make it an option for all. i told them i would be fine with the universal collapsible, but they said that the columns appear different and he would me rather have the correct column.

Tim

[The WidowMaker]

here are the final pics of the swaybar. i added one bend near the end, and i also put the studded rod ends back on. they allow for a lot more misalignment, and since theres now enough room i felt they would be the best option.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/IMG_6890-1.jpg?t=1260851029

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/IMG_6888-1.jpg?t=1260851032

[The WidowMaker]

heres the pic of the collapsible intermediate shaft setup. the rag joint is from lee for their box, the bottom of the shaft is $19 from cpp, the nickle 3/4 dd shaft is $29 from cpp and the 1"-48 x 3/4 dd nickle u-joint was $49 from cpp.

i called frank today to make sure the rag joint would clear the wegner front drive and got the ok. i know they ran it on the bull run chevelle, but wanted to make sure they didnt modify anything to make it work.

as you can see it clears, but barely. theres probably 3/16-1/4" at the tightest spot which is right in the middle of the rubber portion. its hard to see from the angle of the pic, but the entire nickle portion has TONS of room. the hole in the shaved firewall is as close to stock as i could get it, so this should be the same for others running an ls/edelbrock header setup.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/IMG_6884-1.jpg?t=1260851177

[MCMLXIX]

Very cool...

[RJ66]

This is going to be an awsome Chevelle! Have you decided on the wheel selection for it yet?



Randy(D&Z Customs LLC.)
[email protected]
1-262-347-9741

[The WidowMaker]

This is going to be an awsome Chevelle! Have you decided on the wheel selection for it yet?


livewires, rated x's or the newly redone 6 spoke. i had my rendering done with the wildsides, but i just keep changing my mind. wheels will be ordered just after the first of the year. i have to bribe jon into coming over and measuring everything up.

Tim

[The WidowMaker]

i got the pedals and the triple master mounted today. i still need to work on bracing the pedals so i'll have some more pictures in a few days.

the chevelle uses a very good mounting system for both the column and the stock pedals. there is a beefy piece that ties both into the firewall and cowl area making both nice and sturdy. i attempted to use this piece to mount the pedals, but even with most cut away, the pedals didnt sit high enough to clear the column (pedals would clear, but the bias adjuster sits next to the pedal and needed the pedals to sit higher).

so the current plan uses a 3/16" plate on the back of the firewall, along with 3/4 x 1.5" .120 tubing to brace it back to the column mount. this will all take the place of the stock piece. currently, i only have the plate mounted and its sturdy as hell, but i know i will still get some flex. also, since i though i was using the stock mount, i welded the shaved piece around part of the original firewall. since that didnt happen, i had to cut out a section and weld it completely flat. i hope to get the rest done in the next few days.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/IMG_6900-1.jpg?t=1260934574

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/IMG_6897-1.jpg?t=1260934576

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/IMG_6893-1.jpg?t=1260934578

[The WidowMaker]

i finished the install of the pedals for now. i still need a clutch stop and the brake light switch, but i'll finish that once i get the lines installed and the masters bled.

i took some pics of the install, but you cant really tell what the heck is going on. so, if somebody wants the pics or a description of what i did let me know.

i also decided that although i wanted a flat firewall, a little detail wouldnt be bad. i built this little plate today that will get sandwiched between the masters and firewall. i will have to make a relief cut for the steering column, but im still waiting on ididit and i dont have the mount yet.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/IMG_6957-1.jpg?t=1261371133

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/IMG_6963-1.jpg?t=1261371150

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/IMG_6964-1.jpg?t=1261371154

[The WidowMaker]

not much to update. i got the brake and clutch pedals done today. not sure if i will use them or make something else that isnt quite a rectangle. they are still pretty rough, but they will get a little more clean up and a black anodizing. i made them a little bigger than the wilwoods as the blurry pic shows. i have a size 15 shoe, and the wilwoods just felt too small. the will either get screwed on from the back, or welded once i get the contour correct. couldnt have done it without the 1943 Index mill i bought a few months back. it used to make parts for hughes aircraft during the war, now makes parts for my car.

i also shipped the column back to ididit today, and i should have the new column in a couple of weeks. i also bought the front varishock quickset 1's to match the rears. got a good deal over on lat-g.com.
more pics to come

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/CopyofIMG_7121-1.jpg?t=1262051755

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/CopyofIMG_7116-1.jpg?t=1262051862

[Route 66 Motorsports]

looking good...great project can't wait to see more!

[41565 chevelle]

Tim, Looks good, keep up getting the time to work on it. I want to come by after the holidays and look at your master set-up. Let me know when is good

[The WidowMaker]

thanks for the comments guys

today i attempted to place the bend in the pedals pads. the wilwood setup has the pedal pads cast into the arm, and there is a pretty good bend in them. my thought was to either screw the new pads in from the back, or to weld them to the existing pad. either way the new pads needed the contour.

i started by using some scraps that i used to get an idea for the design. the first i heated too much, and once i tapped it with a leather mallet, it just mashed and split.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/IMG_7129-1.jpg?t=1262217020

the second i used a lot less heat, but in an attemp to heat it evenly, it got too soft in a few spots and the vice and vice grips left witness marks.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/IMG_7131-1.jpg?t=1262216994

the third i started by attaching it at both ends over a piece of pipe. as i heated i tightened the ends down in an attempt to get it to bend. it cracked as well.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/IMG_7135-1.jpg?t=1262216996

the last one i put it inside the pipe, applied pressure in the middle and then heated the back. the result is below. i think it worked much better since the interior of the pipe worked as an oven to help heat the piece evenly.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/IMG_7142-1.jpg?t=1262217000

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/IMG_7144-1.jpg?t=1262217005

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/IMG_7147-1.jpg?t=1262217007

im still not sure what to do. since i have to make one more anyways, i have a few options;

make them both flat, cut off the current pad and weld it to the arm

make them curved and do the same as above

make them curved and screw them onto the current pad

or make them curved and weld to the current pad

ive looked at a few different cars and what they have. my wifes lexus has a flat brake pedal, and my silverado is curved to almost the same contour as the pad i made. i guess i need to see what feels most comfortable.

anyone have any suggestions on attachment? any reason tig welding them on would be a bad idea? cant think of any, but id rather ask then cut off the pedal and regret it.

Tim

[L & H Kustoms]

.........anyone have any suggestions on attachment? any reason tig welding them on would be a bad idea? cant think of any, but id rather ask then cut off the pedal and regret it.

Tim

Tim the pedal pads look great as far as tig welding them you can't weld aluminum to steel. but you can braze them on but I wouldnt recommend that as the brazing is soft and could crack and the pad could fall off. You might tap a blind hole on the back side and run a few 10/32 button head allen screws or something to attach it too. The cars looking great

[The WidowMaker]

Tim the pedal pads look great as far as tig welding them you can't weld aluminum to steel. but you can braze them on but I wouldnt recommend that as the brazing is soft and could crack and the pad could fall off. You might tap a blind hole on the back side and run a few 10/32 button head allen screws or something to attach it too. The cars looking great

thanks for the reply and the tech info. i should have mentioned that this is wilwoods aluminum version. the steel set was $100 more and when i talked with them they said that they made steel for the racing circuits where its required. i didnt think it was necessary.

[Motown 454]

Nice job it looks good.

[RJ66]

Hi Tim, I have the same pedals in our 66 Chevelle & in project "Re-Peeled" the curved surface of the pedal works well with performance driving. I would make chamfered holes in the pedal pads & fasten them to the pedals that way.


Randy(D&Z Customs LLC.)
[email protected]
1-262-347-9741

[The WidowMaker]

id love to counter sink some holes for both the ease and the looks, but since im offsetting the pads 1/2" to one side (brake to right side, clutch to left side to widen the center to center) over the current pedal pads, theres no way to get 4 bolts in. i could maybe do 2, but i still think welding will be the easiest, strongest and cleanest.

i think at this point im going to leave them curved. it seems that most i find are curved, and it seems to orient the pedal throughout the entire travel. a flat pedal will of course change angles, but a curved will always feel the same where ever it is.

also, since i need to make one more pedal, im thinking of making it an inch wider. some sets i see have both the same size, but i think the ease of finding a larger pedal is nice. the clutch is adequate, and a brake pedal of the same size would be too, but its still up in the air at this time.

Tim

[The WidowMaker]

I want to come by after the holidays and look at your master set-up. Let me know when is good

im gone all next week to a department class, but after that im back to my normal schedule. i have next saturday (9th) off if you want to swing by.

Tim

[L & H Kustoms]

thanks for the reply and the tech info. i should have mentioned that this is wilwoods aluminum version. the steel set was $100 more and when i talked with them they said that they made steel for the racing circuits where its required. i didnt think it was necessary.

Tim I didnt realize you were running the aluminum wilwood pedal assembly so in retrospect I would definitely heliarc the pads to the pedals. Keep up the good work

[41565 chevelle]

I work the night of the 9th, that is my Monday so I will head in a little early and swing by!

[Nicks67GTO]

Well i must say, I am impressed. I dont know if ive ever seen a buildup this intense in somones driveway before. Congrats on youre rediculously good fab skills ill be keeping up with this build for sure.

I have to ask somthing here. What all are you using for major tools? Welders? Chop saw? Benders? Fixtures? The tools/cost of tools are what have kept me away from doing anything like this. Do you have quite the collection of awesome fabricating tools?

[796spdbu]

Nice project! It looks like you are making some good progress!

[The WidowMaker]

I have to ask somthing here. What all are you using for major tools? Welders? Chop saw? Benders? Fixtures? The tools/cost of tools are what have kept me away from doing anything like this. Do you have quite the collection of awesome fabricating tools?

well, i actually dont have that much to work with. my wife would disagree, but i think my collection is on the average.

miller 210 mig - wish i would have got the 251 for the infinte adjustability

miller dynasty 200dx tig - but havent used it yet. still sitting in the closet brand new after 4 months

makita 4.5" variable speed angle grinder - wouldnt use or buy anything that didnt have variable speed. its proved to be very valuable especially when using flap discs.

makita variable speed router - makes aluminum work a breeze

makita 12" sliding compound miter - old carbide wood blades for cutting aluminum if i take it real slow. spins too fast for true aluminum work.

bosch varible speed jig saw - use this for cutting the 3/16 plate

dewalt chop saw - wish i would have bought the carbide tipped version since none of the abrasive ones i have tried cut straight.

home built 48" sheet metal brake - i could do better the second round, but it works for what i need

woodward fab 8" shear - $100 shipped to my door, and it makes patch panels a breeze. i used to trim everything with the grinder and cut off wheel.

ingersoll rand 80 gal 7.5hp compressor - makes painting and tool operation a no brainer. my old compressor would run constantly and then i would have to stop. this one kicks on, build up and shuts off, all without me stopping. got a good deal on ebay and it was brand new. spent about 6 months looking though.

index vertical mill - its the newest addition and its sweet as hell. i picked it up from a family friend for 300 bucks, and spents about 2 full days taking every single piece off of it and cleaning it back up. the lead screws are pretty worn so im off about .020 in the x and y, but my z axis is within .001. the x and y just make it a little more difficult to move it one direction and then move it back. i have to rezero it every time. i looked into replacements and index wants $1000 for 2 screws and 2 nuts. if anyone has a lead on these, let me know! either that or DRO.

other than that, vices, hammers, hand tools....... nothing else special. im 26 and got married young, but i did my best to buy everything before she could tell me not to. shes still understanding, but its much harder now. i have to come up with a house project to get anything now. i actually finished the kitchen this summer. saved my self about 10k, got some cool tools, and the confidence to spray the car. conversion varnish is much harder than any auto body stuff ive ever sprayed!

[Roadbuster]

well, i actually dont have that much to work with. my wife would disagree, but i think my collection is on the average.

miller 210 mig - wish i would have got the 251 for the infinte adjustability

miller dynasty 200dx tig - but havent used it yet. still sitting in the closet brand new after 4 months

makita 4.5" variable speed angle grinder - wouldnt use or buy anything that didnt have variable speed. its proved to be very valuable especially when using flap discs.

makita variable speed router - makes aluminum work a breeze

makita 12" sliding compound miter - old carbide wood blades for cutting aluminum if i take it real slow. spins too fast for true aluminum work.

bosch varible speed jig saw - use this for cutting the 3/16 plate

dewalt chop saw - wish i would have bought the carbide tipped version since none of the abrasive ones i have tried cut straight.

home built 48" sheet metal brake - i could do better the second round, but it works for what i need

woodward fab 8" shear - $100 shipped to my door, and it makes patch panels a breeze. i used to trim everything with the grinder and cut off wheel.

ingersoll rand 80 gal 7.5hp compressor - makes painting and tool operation a no brainer. my old compressor would run constantly and then i would have to stop. this one kicks on, build up and shuts off, all without me stopping. got a good deal on ebay and it was brand new. spent about 6 months looking though.

index vertical mill - its the newest addition and its sweet as hell. i picked it up from a family friend for 300 bucks, and spents about 2 full days taking every single piece off of it and cleaning it back up. the lead screws are pretty worn so im off about .020 in the x and y, but my z axis is within .001. the x and y just make it a little more difficult to move it one direction and then move it back. i have to rezero it every time. i looked into replacements and index wants $1000 for 2 screws and 2 nuts. if anyone has a lead on these, let me know! either that or DRO.

other than that, vices, hammers, hand tools....... nothing else special. im 26 and got married young, but i did my best to buy everything before she could tell me not to. shes still understanding, but its much harder now. i have to come up with a house project to get anything now. i actually finished the kitchen this summer. saved my self about 10k, got some cool tools, and the confidence to spray the car. conversion varnish is much harder than any auto body stuff ive ever sprayed!

Very nice collection of tools! You can build just about anything with those!

[jackfrost]

what about just gluing the pedal pads on? maybe some panel adhesive?

[TRANSAMERICAN 79]

Wow! In the backyard and a firefighter..... awsome!:)

[gearheads78]

Nice work on the pedals.

I get all my machine shop questions answered on Practical Machinist. You might do some searching there for the mill parts.

Richard

[MoparCar]

Did you say somewhere that you purchased the crank parts for the Watts through Fays? Somehow I recall that but can't find it? Also, what size of DOM did you use on your Watts frame?

Great build!

Thanks!
Wes

[The WidowMaker]

Did you say somewhere that you purchased the crank parts for the Watts through Fays? Somehow I recall that but can't find it? Also, what size of DOM did you use on your Watts frame?


i did get it all from jim at fays. it was ~$75 for the bellcrank and the bearings.

for the construction, i used 1.5" .120 dom, 1.5" .120 square tube, and 2x4" .188 for the cross. its really beefy, but it serves as my shock mounts as well.

Tim

[41565 chevelle]

Tim, let me know when you are around this weekend, working sat/sun night...like to stop by.

[MoparCar]

Tim,
Thanks for the info on the watts. Just what I was looking for.
Wes

[The WidowMaker]

Tim, let me know when you are around this weekend, working sat/sun night...like to stop by.

we sent a USAR team to Haiti, so i picked up another ot on saturday and my normal shifts are fri and sun. but, im starting a 96 off on monday. give me a heads up if any of those work for you.

[The WidowMaker]

just got the ricks tank delivered today!!!! its beautiful to say the least. i needed a custom tank that was shorter in order to clear the watts, and although i wanted to do a dual pump, internal surge tank, this should be more than adequate for spirited driving and autocrossing. hector sold me on the new design which includes an internal sump and check balls (last we spoke this was going to be a regular option). there is one checkball on each side, and one at the back. the sump is sealed on the front, back, bottom and sides, with the top 1/4" open to allow fuel to flow back into the tank when the sump is full. it also has an internal bosch pump with -8 fittings which will be more than i need for now.

i cant wait to get this tank installed and get some pictures taken. once all is said and done and i can show that it fits well, this will be an option for anyone needing a tank for a chevelle with a watts.

and i have to say thanks to hector and the guys. the quality is amazing, and the service is second to none.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/IMG_7226-1.jpg?t=1264742119

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/IMG_7227-1.jpg?t=1264742106

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/IMG_7229-1.jpg?t=1264742104

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/IMG_7231-1.jpg?t=1264742101

[Wicked58]

Very nice!

[The WidowMaker]

i got the tank mocked up yesterday, and it fits just as expected. i have about 2" btwn the front of the tank and the watts, so running lines wont be an issue. the cut corners will also really help with the exhaust routing.

however, i am still going to raise the floor. id rather get the tank tucked up a little higher with my low ride height. the plan is to cut the floor out tomorrow and get something fabbed up and installed in the next week. i need to find someone with a good bead roller to put some strength in a sheet of 18 ga, so that will be the only hold up.

pics to come.....

Tim

[41565 chevelle]

You want to try my bead roller? I'll bring it over with the dies and you can give it a shot!

[The WidowMaker]

rj,

does yours have the ability to start in the middle of a panel? im trying to make it all one piece, and i need to bend the floor at the front and back, so i cant start off the panel. im hoping i can find someone local looking for a little work.

Tim

[The WidowMaker]

i got the new column from ididit last week, and it too is a piece of art. the upper portion of this column will be different on the production version (to match the original), but i didnt need that with the proposed dash. they had to rework their design a little in order to place the mounts in the correct place without disrupting the collapsible feature. but all works and i will have some install pics shortly.
also, the trunk floor is out and the new one is almost in. i should have pics by thursday night if it doesnt rain in the next couple of days.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/IMG_7378-1.jpg?t=1265689576
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/IMG_7380-1.jpg?t=1265689573
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/IMG_7381-1.jpg?t=1265689571

[The WidowMaker]

a little more progress has been made. i started on the trunk last week in an effort to raise the gas tank for a little more clearance. although the ricks tank is no deeper than the stock tank, with my slammed height, i had about 5" of ground clearance. enough, but more would be nice. so i set off to raise the tank 3". on the first mockup of the pieces, i was at 3 3/4", so i said f-it and made it a little more than planned. it is all still really rough and all the welds will be ground for the finished appearance, but i figured id post a real update. also, the pictures really make the surface rust look much worse than it does in person. the bottom is going to get reblasted and expoxied after the exhaust is done, and the inside will get a good sanding in the next couple of weeks, followed by the interior getting por 15 and dynamat. ill have more interior pics to come.

in order to raise the sides, i needed a piece that was curved for the bottom to match the existing outer floor braces, but flat on the top for the new floor. since i wanted a 90* on each side for better mounting, i had to use two pieces. the lower was shrunk to match the curve, and the top is just a 90* done in the brake.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/IMG_7373-1.jpg?t=1266551433

this is the inside at the start of the tack welding. i left the side mounts long so that the floor can be extended over to the quarters.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/IMG_7369-1.jpg?t=1266551435

old floor braces tacked in place. they were curved at the back where they rolled and started to go upwards, but i made some relief cuts and made them flat to fit the new floor. if i would have cut the extra off, they wouldnt have been long enough.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/IMG_7420-1.jpg?t=1266551442

this is a pic with most of the final welding done. who ever has to take this all back apart is going to HATE me. i hated the gm worker for just spot welding everything. but, once finished, it will be nice and smooth. you can also see the front mounts i welded up. 2x2 tube and threaded to accept the front strap bolt.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/IMG_7478-1.jpg?t=1266551452

i was initially concerned that it wouldnt be ridgid enough, but a tap gets a nice firm sound. a little dynamat on the inside and u-pol on the outside and it wont make a sound.

Tim

[jake72ss]

Tim, is IDIDIT going to start manufacturing that column with the mounts as you specified or in another location? Also if you dont mind how much did it cost? I would like to replace my factory tilt column which has been rebuilt but still has some slop.
Thanks

[The WidowMaker]

the mounts will be in the factory location, and their design had to slightly change to make it happen. it just means that the 2.25" tube is a little longer than their universal column. not a big deal at all.

also, the collapsible column is $75 more than the current one, but since you have to reuse your stock mount, youre not tempted to buy an expensive aftermarket mount.

Tim

[jake72ss]

The mount issue has always confused me about the Ididit columns, as if they are not expensive enough and then you have to buy a kit to install it.
Thanks

[jake72ss]

Also I forgot to ask, what part number will that column be?
Thanks

[The WidowMaker]

just a couple updates. the trunk floor is now finished and only needs some paint and dynamat to be complete. the floor was raised a total of 3 3/4" and gives me a ton more ground clearance. i still need to attach the rear bumper and work out the fill tube, but i made sure not to raise it high enough to cause an issue.

this is the before pic

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/IMG_7265-1.jpg?t=1267853252

the after pic

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/IMG_7527-1.jpg?t=1267853255

this shows the amount of room between the tank and the watts. if you are running the fays2 kit, you will have plenty of room with this tank. although i raised it, i didnt move the tank back any. it would sit in the same spot if i had the stock floor. hector is making some new straps that are a little longer for my mounts.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/IMG_7531-1.jpg?t=1267853257

this shows how the trunk floor was done. almost all the seams are full welded. the only ones that didnt get a solid bead were the filler panels on the sides. the bottom will be ground smooth before getting a bed liner product, but the top will be covered with upholstery

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/IMG_7676-1.jpg?t=1267853275

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/IMG_7677-1.jpg?t=1267853293

this is how i mounted the battery. the sheetmetal is reinforced so the bolts dont pull it up. the top bar was just a piece of aluminum and i routed the edges so they are now rounded over. once the bolts are tightened (i dont have them tightened here), the battery doesnt move at all.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/IMG_7701-1.jpg?t=1267853293

[The WidowMaker]

i mocked up the tires for the last time today and got my measurements to send off to jon. i spent a lot of time making sure the tire was square and centered, and double checked my measurements with a little device i made up. he originally just wanted to know the measurement to the tightest spot and that would have been simple with the old ride height and set of tires since it was just in the middle of the quarter lip. but with the new ride height, and because tires dont have square edges between the sidewall and tread, and the tighest spots were at this radius, it was much easier to just mock the tire up.

so with all that said, i plan to give him the exact spot i want the outside of the tire, and im confident he can take that and figure out where that would place the wheel.

here is a pic of how it will sit

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/IMG_7648-1.jpg?t=1267854558

now i just need to decide what i want to do about a style. they will either be the livewires or rated x's, and they will have a dark satin grey center and brushed outer. ive also narrowed the car down to either the prowler orange (with a little more red tint added) with the same dark satin gray stripe, or the whole car in dark gray with a black satin stripe.

more to come later.

Tim

[MCMLXIX]

Looks great Tim... I want to raise my trunk floor too... Is there floor pan bracing weleded to the the underside? Do you have any pics looking up from underneath without the tank??? I would like to see how everything fits together...

[The WidowMaker]

Also I forgot to ask, what part number will that column be?


ill have to check. the upper portion of my column does not appear stock (because i didnt want it to), so that was something they were still working on. they should have a number by now though.



The mount issue has always confused me about the Ididit columns, as if they are not expensive enough and then you have to buy a kit to install it.


thats the best part about installing this column; you only need a lower firewall mount, and they want you to use the one that works with the collapsible column. its something like 30 bucks. the upper mount is just your stock mount, and they will have the tabs welded on in the correct place so you dont have to use an adapter like on the flaming river stuff.

ill have pics of the lower mount next week when i get around to welding it in.

[The WidowMaker]

Is there floor pan bracing weleded to the the underside? Do you have any pics looking up from underneath without the tank??? I would like to see how everything fits together...

one page back, post 118 has all the good stuff that i think youre looking for. let me know if you need any more specific pics.

[MCMLXIX]

The only thing I dont get/see is how the frame fits next to the trunk floor and drop offs....

[Roadbuster]

Looks great Tim! I really like that tire mock up shot. This car is going to have a great stance! Keep up the good work!
Jon

[CruizinKev]

nice work! looking good! :twothumbs

[clu269]

What size are the rear tires?

[The WidowMaker]

right now they are nitto 555r 305/35/20's, but im looking to sell these new tires and get a set of the nt05 315's if i decide to go with 20x11's.

[The WidowMaker]

The only thing I dont get/see is how the frame fits next to the trunk floor and drop offs....

these are the only pics i have right now that kind of explain it. if you look at the very right side of the first pic, youll see a piece of the old floor brace. this is the brace that the frame sits on, and was the old height of the floor.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/IMG_7478-1.jpg?t=1266551452

the second pic kind of shows the same thing, but right side up. you can see how the floor was raised right next to the floor brace that sits on the frame. when looking from under the car, the raised portion almost exactally follows the frame.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/IMG_7373-1.jpg?t=1266551433


i'll see if i can get some better pics when i get home tomorrow.

[WS6]

Very nice. How will you fill the gas tank?

[The WidowMaker]

How will you fill the gas tank?

same as stock. the filler neck has a pretty good bend and it extends up about 5-6" above the tank. since i raised it almost 4, the bottom of the opening is still 1-2" above the top of the tank. i just need to make the opening and a new filler neck. i plan to mock the bumper up and get that done in the next couple weeks.

[Motown 454]

Nice work it looks great, a lot more clearance.

[1971CHEVELLE]

Wow awesome project :1st:

[The WidowMaker]

well the inside of the trunk has been coated, and i have the trunk lid aligned and gapped. btwn adding and subtracting a little metal, i have a straight 3/16 gap. now the plan is to make the bumper fit the rear.

here are a couple of pics i threw up on the paint and body forum

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/IMG_7738-1.jpg?t=1268712369

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/IMG_7739-1.jpg?t=1268712365

as you can see, its a long way from being "tucked" in nicely. it is acutally hitting the body in the middle (if the car is looked at from the rear), so the sides cant move any further forward. you can kind of see from the second pic that it doesnt follow the contour of the rear sheet metal very well. again its flush in the middle of the deck lid, but sticks out towards the quarters.

it also does the same thing on the vertical gaps as well. the middle of the deck lid contacts the top of the bumper when closed, but the outsides are sitting about 1/2" below the quarters.

so the plan is to start working it from the middle. i'll make some relief cuts that allow the ends to go in and up and see where that gets me. then the plan is to narrow, shave and move the brackets to the proper locations. if i need to add metal to the quarters, that will be done as well.

i have a feeling that this is going to take a while though. the plan is to send the bumper out to be stripped, then get working on it. hopefully i will have it done in a few weeks.

[diesel1114]

any updated pictures? the car is comming along very nicely and i love the attention to detail very nice and should really be one bad ass chevelle

[The WidowMaker]

any updated pictures? the car is comming along very nicely and i love the attention to detail very nice and should really be one bad ass chevelle

actually i do have a small update. i paid the final balance on the wheels and tires. i still havent selected the style, but they will be 19x9.5 and 20x10.5 3 piece rushforths. ive added the wildsides back in to the choices, so its between the livewire, rated x and the wildside. i know most people hate the 7 spoke 5 lug combo, but the rendering looks sick and jason being the designer and the guy behind the wheels wouldnt steer me wrong.

the tires will be nitto nt05 275/30/19's up front and 315/35/20's in the rear. i sold my 305/35's since i really wanted a 200 treadwear tire for the autocross stuff. im sure they will change that rule before my car is done though.

i also did a spray out of colors. i shot one red and 6 greys all in the new water based stuff. after all the color comparisons, the red will be mercedes mars red and the grey will be off of a range rover. i brought the samples into the guys at work, and every one of them tossed the range rover grey out in the first round. obviously their vision isnt the same as mine, especially since i hate blue greys. i was going to shoot a few more, but im sticking to my decision for now.

lastly, i got a little work done on the rear bumper. its a real pain in the ass, but progress is being made. i first sliced it in the middle to get the angles corrrect. originally, it was too high and too tight right in the middle, but by slicing it, it took care of this. the issue im having now is the bend right at the last outer foot. it starts to curve about 2" too early and its keeping the bumper from flowing nicely into the quarters.

today, i cut the bumper again in the middle and took out 3/4". this sucked the sides in nicely, but opened up a whole bunch of new problems. so by the time i'm done, its going to look sick, but probably wont be able to be chromed with the amount of work that im needing to do.

here are some pics

bumper and trunk lid flowing nicely
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/IMG_8061-1.jpg

you can see here how the bumper curves a little early. it also makes it difficult since the tail light is right below this, meaning that an easy correction would place a bend where the light is. you can also see how the corner of the quarter and the corner of the bumper flow nicely. they no longer do this with the bumper moved in 3/8" per side. although the side flows perfect, this corner is an area thats going to need some serious surgery.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/IMG_8064-1.jpg

bumper sticking out before narrowing
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/IMG_8066-1.jpg

bumper moved in 3/8". i need to get one at the same angle as the above pic for a better comparison. it really made a HUGE improvement.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/04/IMG_8071-1.jpg

[The WidowMaker]

a little more work on the bumper today. ive been taking a bunch of classes at work, so progress has been slow. its hard to come home after not seeing the family for 3 days and head out to the garage. so not much has been getting done.

but, i got both quarters roughed in to the bumper. both sides needed to be extended out and down to get the gap a little better. i also smoothed the bumper brackets after final welding them to their new size. i started smoothing the welds on the bumper as well, but these pics were taken before i started on that. so...... i need to fill in the slices/gaps on the quarter, finish smoothing the welds, weld the brackets to the bumpers and smooth the bolt holes and then i need to start on the filler panel that mounts to the bottom of the bumper. i figure i have another 10-15 hours before im finished.

im pretty happy with the results. its been such a long time since i started that its hard to tell how much progress has been made. i wish i would have taken a bunch more before pics, but either way its better. i'd say that with the old being a 1 and a perfect being a 10 that this falls into the 6-7 range. there are a few things that i wish were better, but i dont have the time or skills to make them perfect. most obvious is that the ends of the bumper still dont follow the quarter perfect. its only off about 1/8 - 3/16, but i wish it was 0. when i worked the quarters i could have made it 0, but the transition btwn the deck lid and quarter would have been screwed up. i'll get some more pics once i get it all smoothed out.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/IMG_8294-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/IMG_8283-1.jpg

[topher455]

Lovin this build. The frame work in particular. I'll have to do something like that to mine at some point. but first I really need to put some miles on the build that is almost done LOL.

[The WidowMaker]

the wheel purchase is DONE!!!

i have to give a big thanks to jon at driverz inc and jason rushforth. ive bugged the crap out of them for the two years since i put my deposit down (no, im not kidding its really been two years) and they are both awesome to work with.

the wheels are going to be 3 piece stepped lip, brushed outers, grey centers and 19x9.5 fronts and 20x11 rears. the stepped lip gives me the same centers as a 18/19 combo and the hoops are a little lighter as well. i also decided to go back to the original 275/35 front to match the sidewalls a little better with the 315/35 rear.

the style? well i'll keep that a secret until i have some pictures. i want people to keep reading my thread so i can get help and advice, and i don't want anyone putting me on their "banned" list. once you see them, i hope you all agree that they fit the car.

[The WidowMaker]

the plan is to have the frame at the blasters sometime in july and have it painted and assembled by the end of july. because i have to notch the frame a little to clear the 315's i wanted to push forward with the wheel order so i have them to know what needs to be clearanced. i also have to get the exhaust done since it needs to run through a crossmember and another has to be notched as well. in addition, i had never bent up the bars that go between the mid crossmember and the upper control arm crossmember and those have to be welded in. so, i borrowed a coworkers tubing bender and got those done. while i had it, i also rebuilt the tranny crossmember.

the original idea was that i wanted something that tucked up tight for exhaust clearance and didnt require the removal of the exhaust to drop the tranny. but since i was going to have to notch the outer "wings" anyways and i didnt like the amount of meat left for the tabs that sandwiched the drop out piece i just fabbed a new one.

the old was 1.5"x3" .120 wall tube with 1.5" dom in the middle. the new is a double 1" .120 wall all the way across. because there is no hinged joint in the bends, its acutally much stronger than the old one. and since its so small, i think i might still be able to get away with not dropping the exhaust. if i do, the v band clamps will make that pretty simple.

here are some pics. clearance is 1/4" to the floor, and the floor doesnt give when i am sitting in the drivers seat.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/IMG_8429-1.jpg?t=1274931626
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/IMG_8433-1.jpg?t=1274931633
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/IMG_8430-1.jpg?t=1274931624

[The WidowMaker]

first, a small update on the wheels. i narrowed my rear more than i thought which left 4.25" bs on an 11" wheel. i do have a 1.5" pad for the z06 brakes but that still left a large lip. since it isnt a stocked size and would take a while to get, plus the fact that it was costing more since its really not that popular right now, i decided to change to the smooth lip wheels. hopefully only a few more weeks. jason is also looking into some extra programming to get the wheels lightened from the rear of the center. my fingers are crossed.

[The WidowMaker]

i need to get the exhaust done so i can get the frame to the blasters and get it all in paint by the end of the summer. its taken a lot longer than expected, and my few hours in the garage at a time goes by really fast.

i started with a mix of 3" and 2.5" tubing and transitions from columbia river, and bends from pypes all in 304 stainless. i spent some time polishing all the stuff from CR since it didnt come done. overall, im pretty happy with all the pieces i purchased.

now the issues...... i had debated whether to keep the donut gasketed joint from the edelbrock headers, or cut it off at the collector and do v-bands. im glad i left it alone, but i hope it doesnt leak. assembling and disassembling has really done a number on the gasket. i hope to get some more before its put together for the final time.

issue two.... don't make a 16ga stainless exhaust your first tig project ever. i practiced a little before the tacks, but fitment has to be dead nuts perfect or i blow a hole. and i do mean PERFECT! and i still havent figured out how to fill a damn hole. some pieces are tacked without issue, especially those done on the bench, but it seems that if i blow in one there are a few more holes before it sticks. im still tacking everything together, so hopefully i can practice a little more and maybe the back purge will help things a little. i am AMAZED at how well a tig tack holds though. 2 tacks on a piece and i cant break it apart. i have to knick the tack with a grinding wheel to make it work.

issue three..... maybe i dont understand the mandrel bending process, but i was hoping that if i cut a piece in the middle of a bend that it would be the same size as a piece cut from any other random part of any other tube. its not! the bent piece is smaller and that has led to some fun issues. its not a huge difference, but the extreme ones are about 1/16" different. that means when joined, one has a ring exposed all the way around the joint. i have a feeling these are going to be fun to final weld.

i could talk for hours on the "experience" i have had so far. if you see something, i probably have an answer for it, but id rather not bore you with any more babble. here are the pics of where i am now.

flex joints so that the rest can be solid/poly mounted.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/IMG_8487-1.jpg?t=1276149470

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/IMG_8495-1.jpg?t=1276149469

there is more room here than it appears. this was all complicated by flowmaster not having the muffler in a offset in/out. no hangers are in place yet, so its resting on the holes in the mid crossmember. this is the easy side though. the watts link is 6" higher on the other side. its going to be interesting to say the least.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/IMG_8492-1.jpg?t=1276149473

i have it coming under the frame behind the tire now. i just need to decide where to run it, and whether it will come out under or through the rear bumper lower valance.

[SSChevelle]

Tim,

I love what your doing with the car. This is exactly what im doing with my 70.
I hope you dont mind me asking a few questions.
First what company did you use for the quarters? and how did you go about mounting it. Im tring to figure out the best way to replace mine. Car had been in an accident at one point and the area where the quarter meets the trunk seal is completely rotted out. So fitment is going to be difficult.
Secondly how did you attach the new tubs to the quarter(Is there a better pic of the inside of the wheelwell)

Thanks
Sean

[The WidowMaker]

First what company did you use for the quarters? and how did you go about mounting it.

i live pretty close to opg, so thats where i picked them up. it helps to have a brother-in-law that worked there back in the day, so i get a little bit of a discount sometimes. plus, i could inspect them without having to worry about sending them back if damaged.

i attached them the same way as the factory did, welds around the perimiter.


Secondly how did you attach the new tubs to the quarter(Is there a better pic of the inside of the wheelwell)


guys have been asking about this, so i'll see if i can dig up some pics. but, if you look at how it was done stock, its the same way. basically, the tub is 6 pieces. starting on the inside you have the vertical that comes up from around the frame, then the first rounded over section, the main section over the tire, the next rounded section, the drop down towards the quarter lip, then a 90* piece that was formed to fit to the quarter lip. so, the quarter lip extends inward toward the tire (the piece guys usually roll for clearance), and it is sandwiched with the lip from the tub.

i'll look for some pics. im working a 48 and wont be able to get pics until monday if i dont have them already.

Tim

[The WidowMaker]

so i had some decisions to make on the mufflers. the wife wanted it quieter than before, but i still wanted it to sound good. i ended up buying the stainless 50 series deltas back in december when bing was giving 20% off ebay purchases. ever since then i have somewhat regretted not going with the 40 deltas like i had before. i figured that the bigger motor and larger piping would make it louder, but that the increased insulation, carpet and x-pipe would mellow it out a little. a wash? im not sure.

since i had to open one up (i'll get to that later) and i had already polished them and couldnt return them, i had three choices. leave them as is, weld up the resonator chamber in each muffler essentially making it just a longer 40, or removing the extra 4" and making a 40 series. i ended up just leaving them as is, but if i want it louder after its been on the road, i will take the full 4" out at that time.

then there was the other issue (the part i said i would get to). flowmaster only makes one part number per style (inlet/outlet) of muffler. so, if you need two mufflers with offset inlets that are next to each other (our chevelles), one muffler has to be flipped over. when you flip a flowmaster, you get the ugly case seam. and since i was polishing them, that wouldnt work. below are the pics of what i ended up doing. cut the end off and grind away their weld until the stamped plug end was back to normal. then just flip, reinsert and reweld. now i have a matched set.......

here you can see the inlet side of the muffler. the small hole to the right is the inlet to the resonator chamber. that is what i had planned to weld up.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/IMG_8935-1.jpg

here it is flipped and rewelded. i cant get any good pics of the welds. they just look blurry.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/IMG_8949-1.jpg

[The WidowMaker]

here are the rest of the exhaust pics. like i said before, an average of a B/B+ on weld appearance. some are D's mainly on the right rear tailpipe since i did it first, but there are a few A's as well. did i heat it too much and lose the stainless properties? only time will tell. i have a pretty good rainbow effect, and the haz isnt too wide, so i hope im fine.

the first two show how the frame was cut to allow the exhaust to sit up higher. i would have loved to have made them go through the frame for a little more rigidity, but i would have needed another two vband clamps to make it work and the hole for those flanges needs to be pretty big. i also got the mounts from the roadster shop. im hoping i dont end up melting the ones closer to the motor.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/IMG_8965-1.jpg

the exhaust will exit through the valance below the bumper. i have some transitions to make the tips 3" and i plan to make them slightly oval. that work will come once the frames done and the bumper gets completed.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/IMG_8968-1.jpg

here you can see the tight spot. if i would have welded the watts connector on at more of an angle and given myself another 1" of clearance, i would have saved a few days work. this was a TOTAL PAIN IN THE ASS!!!!! the watts crossmember had to be notched to make it work. this was another time where changing build plans bit me in the ass. i never expected to have the car so low that 1/4" of travel mattered. the rear never went this low when i set up the watts since it wasnt until after that i notched the fram.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/IMG_8967-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/IMG_8975-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/IMG_8976-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/IMG_8981-1.jpg

[Roadbuster]

Great work Tim!
Lot of attention to detail to make this look awesome! I love how you are tucking the exhaust up into the pocket under the quarter!

For sound control you could also run a small thru muffler in that pocket area.


favorite pic: Great exhaust routing with beefy tires!


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/IMG_8965-1.jpg

[Motown 454]

Your exhaust looks awesome you did an excelent job.

[CruizinKev]

wow awesome work! :twothumbs

[The WidowMaker]

favorite pic: Great exhaust routing with beefy tires!


wait till you see the real tires on there. :naughty:

[TheKingOTW]

You have a nice looking project in the works.

[POS71RS]

Amazing work you're doing there!
I'm saving this for some tips and inspiration.
You hose-draggers have all the time in the world to get stuff done! lol.

[jr2226nhra]

very nice fab work

[Mudweizer]

Nice project.

When you are taking pictures of the welds are you turning macro on? Symbol looks like a flower on most cameras.

Can you post a picture of your welding cart, I'm trying to get some ideas on making one for my tig welder.

[1964_442]

awesome job!!!

[Danny lindstrand]

Nice work!

[The WidowMaker]

Nice project.

When you are taking pictures of the welds are you turning macro on? Symbol looks like a flower on most cameras.

Can you post a picture of your welding cart, I'm trying to get some ideas on making one for my tig welder.


i have no idea about the camera, but i will check. i'll also get some pics of the cart. its a work in progress like all of my other projects. i still need to add a shelf, but i'll show you what i have.

[The WidowMaker]

Can you post a picture of your welding cart

i dragged the welder out to get some pics of the cart today but the camera battery was dead. the worst part is the wife says she left the charger in the hotel room on our short weekend vacation. itll be a few days before i get a new charger, and the wheels are supposed to be here this week!

[The WidowMaker]

so no charger yet. seems ones going to show up on ebay here shortly with a selling location of san diego. i did just buy one on ebay, but its coming from new york so no pics this week.

but on another note, today was the first of 10 work days to get the frame off to the blaster. i actually made a timeline, and if i stick to it, i will have frame paint pics on the 31st of this month.

today the body got pulled and put on stands in the garage. i then had to pull the motor and trans and get the frame up on the rotisserie. i also started to weld up the rear section of the frame that was notched for the exhaust.

so, 1 day down and 9 to go. and im currently on schedule!!!! days 2-5 will come at the end of next week on my 4 day. i work a few shifts with a damn wedding in between.

[DriverzInc]

Your tires arrived today.

[mc84_zz4]

^^ now that's good news!, pre-congratulations on your parole from Wheel Jail!
Can't wait to see some update pics...
:cheers:

[The WidowMaker]

^^ now that's good news!, pre-congratulations on your parole from Wheel Jail!
Can't wait to see some update pics...


if paint jail is as easy as wheel jail then i'm set. jon and jason are awesome!

wheel pics should be coming soon!!!!

[bullitt4110]

Wow! That is amazing! Cant wait to see what the end result is.

[The WidowMaker]

here are a few pics from today. i got both sides fully notched and cleaned up in the rear. i had planned on welding up the 4" holes in the mid cross, but that will be tomorrow morning.

you can also see how much having the body on the jack stands and the frame on the rotisserie screws up the garage. if its the other way around, the body can hover on the rotisserie almost above the frame and take up a ton less room. i cant wait until the frame is on the ground for good!!!!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_0161-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_0159-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_0160-2.jpg

[navyflyer72]

Amazing fab work! Like everyone else, can' wait to see her on the ground!

[The WidowMaker]

i got a little more done today. unfortunately the watts crossmember had to be notched for exhaust clearance. if i would have known how low i was going to make it sit i would have welded the attachment points on the 12 bolt at a different angle. at the time i set it up, the rearend was hitting the frame at the end of its travel and there was still plenty of room for the exhaust.

so, the rear cross was notched and i got it smoothed today. i also finished the mid cross through holes, finished welding up the trans mounting points, took care of the droop stops to keep the front uca's from hitting the frame when jacking up the front end and also ground all the paint and filler out of the frame seams so i can weld them up more than the factory did. i never did it the first time, but i'm going to take the time now.

also, my wheels are supposed to be dropped off tomorrow morning!!!! i plan to take them out to jon for tires some time in the afternoon.

check out a pic of how some of the factory seams look??????? did they put a roll of 70s6 in a flux machine, or just run out of gas???

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_0174-1.jpg

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Awesome build I just spent a few hours reading though it..

[Nuke1]

I just read you entire build thread, great job on this car!!! I am starting to do one for the wife and this is basicall y the direction that I wanted to go with it. thaks for some more ideas.

[The WidowMaker]

another small update.

i got the frame seams mostly ground out and welded. i will do some more once its completely disassembled.

i also checked the watts one last time and it came up perfectly centered. the old tires were off 1/4" as they rotate, so lesson learned on using them for measuring. the new wheels and tires are pretty perfect, so i used them to center and no changes are needed.

i moved the shocks over about 3/4" to allow for more exhaust and watts clearance. its pretty amazing how that little change can affect the spring rates. before i could get the frame to sit on the axle, and now the lowest i can get it is about 1" from the axle. i went from about 8-10* to 4* on my shock angles.

i do need to narrow the frame, so that is the next job to be completed on tuesday. then its just little stuff like welding the control arms, cutting off the ears on the 12 bolt...........

more to come!

[Nick.V70]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/IMG_8968-1.jpg


You are my hero :cheers:

[The WidowMaker]

the frame got narrowed today. its not as pretty as i would like since it should have been done the first time and the notch reinforcement complicated things. but, it is done.

i have a whole list of stuff to do tomorrow and then i wont be back on it until next wednesday. i promised the wife i would take friday off from the car, and i leave saturday for a boys trip to vegas. i just hope im still married when i come back.........

heres a couple teaser wheel pics to hold you over. this is about .5" above ride height at the rear, and really high at the front. it still measures higher than i wanted, but the wheel is also 28.5" tall! they also sit in a tad more than i would like, but theres nothing more i could do at this ride height. at full compression they are pretty dang tight to the outside of my tubs, and my tubs have about a 1/16" gap to the quarter at this spot. wheels are rushforths with nitto nto5 315/35/20's. centers are custom matched to the code i gave them which will be the color on the frame in a couple of weeks.

i'll get some real pics once the frame is painted and assembled.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_9148-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_9163-1.jpg

[MCMLXIX]

hey.. you got a fat lip...

[78 Type-LT]

This gets better & better..

[srh3trinity]

You have got to be pumped about how nice this car is turning out. That stance and that much limp looks amazing.

[The T-man]

wow....nice work

[The WidowMaker]

Thanks guys!! ive been working on it so much that i get a little burnt out. the comments keep me going.

[craigs73]

hey man this car is looking good. i have a question where the rocker panel meets the quarter panel what you going to do with that seam there?

[41565 chevelle]

Tim, I talked to Lanzini about painting your ride. He said to come down or maybe I could swing him by one night with me. He does all of Foose's paint work these days so the quality is top notch.

Let me know when you are back in town and I will intro you to him, he is a great guy.

[The WidowMaker]

hey man this car is looking good. i have a question where the rocker panel meets the quarter panel what you going to do with that seam there?

it will either get welded or seam sealed. im not totally sure yet. i might also extend the rockers down another 1" to cover the pinch weld, so i need to make my mind up on that as well.

[The WidowMaker]

Tim, I talked to Lanzini about painting your ride. He said to come down or maybe I could swing him by one night with me. He does all of Foose's paint work these days so the quality is top notch.

Let me know when you are back in town and I will intro you to him, he is a great guy.

dude, youre awesome. i'll let you know a little more shortly. im almost finished getting a refi thats going to save me $$$$$$ a year, so there will be a little extra money floating around. id love to have a painter like that work his magic.

youre also going to have to come by and check out the frame after paint in a couple of weeks. it should look sweet!

[craigs73]

it will either get welded or seam sealed. im not totally sure yet. i might also extend the rockers down another 1" to cover the pinch weld, so i need to make my mind up on that as well.


probaly look cleaner welded.i always wondered what exactly what they did wasnt sure im on my first project sooooo:fingersx:

[DriverzInc]

Looking good Tim, keep up the great work!

[Zanie]

I sold my 71 Chevelle SS hardtop 25 years ago, to get a 71 Chevelle convertible. Just this year, I got around to getting that convertible. After following your build, now I wanna hardtop again!
Tim, I’m in awe of your craftsmanship!!
Even though you post the same pics at chevelles.com, I look at them over there too, I can’t get enough!

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Nice wheels and damn they do have a lip...

[The WidowMaker]

well i got back from vegas and im still alive..... and married. we went to the rehab pool on sunday and some guy actually died while we were in the pool. we didnt find out until the next day, but another group of medic firefighters (one was a friend of my buddy) actually tried to help and were told to leave. one actually got thrown out because he was irate that nobody was performing cpr on this kid. pretty friggin crazy and there will be a HUGE lawsuit to come.

i took today off from the car, but tomorrow is day 11 of what is now 12 prep days. im going to take the frame down to the blasters on monday morning and try to have it in epoxy sometime in the afternoon. if all goes well i should have it all finished in paint by a week from saturday. stay tuned!!!

[The WidowMaker]

so i borrowed a buddys trailer and when i get off tomorrow morning the frame is going to the blasters!!!!!!! i plan to put a couple coats of epoxy on it tomorrow night. i work tuesday and then there will be a 3 day thrash to get it all done. the only part that wont get painted with the others is the rear housing. i figure i'll leave that for maybe saturday or sunday since theres a lot of prep left on it and theres still 33 suspension parts to paint on friday.

pics of primer tomorrow night!!!

i just hope the wind and paint cooperates...........

[BLQWN]

Great build story, a real inspiration, keep it comin!

[The WidowMaker]

a couple of epoxy pics for you guys. $250 to blast the frame and a few parts that i was too lazy to clean up again.

tomorrow i work, wed it gets filler and slick sand, thurs (burning some sick time) it gets sealer, paint and a nice satin clear. friday i will get the parts all painted up.

more pics to come!!!!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_9312-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_9311-1.jpg

[Flash68]

Jesus man. This is an amazing home project. Keep on truckin.

[mc84_zz4]

This is one of my favorite threads to follow.
You have given me some great ideas for a future frame upgrade, specially since I will be doing this in my own garage as well.
:cheers:

[The WidowMaker]

today i got all the filler work and the slick sand done. tomorrow i need to finish doing the final sanding and some pinhole work. tomorrow night it should be in fresh paint!!!!

[1badchevelle]

Just wondering who will offer to put the car in their sema booth first?

[Jeffrotech]

Frame looks fantastic (especially now that it's all one color).

Got any way to weigh it? I'm very curious.

[67goatman455]

im speechless.

After looking at all your progress there is NO WAY i can leave my frame with minimal modifications. Im not sure if this is a bad, or a good thing. I know i have the ability to do this stuff, knowledge, eh ill learn as i progress, but i have no where near the right amount of tools or space. :(

AMAZING build is all i can say

[rixtrix1]

Looking great! I enjoy homebuilds like yours; really show what one can accomplish at home with a little perseverance. Seriously thinking of converting my backhalved '66 Malibu drag car back into a street/track car. How did you determine your frame design? Thanks for sharing!

[The WidowMaker]

How did you determine your frame design?

lots of looking. i seriously spent hours between the computer making brackets and sitting there staring at the stupid thing. if i had to do it over small changes would have been made. the biggest is the ride height. the added c-notch and lowered stance conflicted with a lot of what had already been done. i could have saved a few hours routing the exhaust if i had only known where it would eventually end up.

[The WidowMaker]

well its done. at least the frame. it turned out ok although i had hoped for a little better. i could have used another two coats of slicksand to smooth it out a little more, but like the wife keeps saying, nobody is going to see the damn thing. i did have two areas i really wanted to nail; the outside of the rails that are seen under the rockers of the body, and the top of the rails in the engine compartment. id give the sides an 8 and the engine compartment about a 6. there is one area where the seam show a little on the tops of both engine compartment rails. again, another coat of slicksand would have cured it but i was over it. it looks good. overall it was much better than last time. i spent a lot more time with the blocking this time.

after painting all the parts tomorrow im going to take a couple weeks off from the car. i plan to get all my bolts and anything else thats now gold zinc together and get everything done in either black cad or black zinc. i should have it back together by the end of the month.

here are a couple pics.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/IMG_9398-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/IMG_9395-1.jpg

[Roadbuster]

Looking great Tim!

[1badchevelle]

Tim at work we use a coating called everlube 6107 gloss or flat black. I had fasteners coated in this for my car.(Link below). I have some bolts I can send you to take a look at. I am sure I can get your bolt coated in this at no charge.

It looks better than zinc and better rust protection.

http://www.metalimprovement.com/coatings_processes.php#cce

[mc84_zz4]

Man! that is looking good! I can't wait to see the rolling chasis put together... :cheers:

[Sheriff]

Looking good cant wait to see it finished

[CruizinKev]

*drool*

[The WidowMaker]

so most of the parts got painted today. i was hoping to get the rear housing done as well, but there was just no time to prep it. the plan is to prep it tomorrow and shoot it sunday morning. im also going to paint the alternator and the a/c pump. i had planned on shooting them the grey, but i may change my mind and shoot them black. we'll have to see.

the parts actually came out better than expected. i didnt do much in the way of prep, so you can tell if a parts sand cast. i'll call it character......... i did the same thing last time and was happy.

i can't wait to get all the bolts together, coated and then assemble it all again.

here are some pics. i stole the reds watts arms from penny, but really i needed something to make them visible and draw attention to the suspension. that is also the same red that is going on the outside of the car.

oh and as you can see in the last pic, i need to cut the shrubs and mow the friggin lawn! or so my wife tells me........


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/IMG_9404-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/IMG_9416-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/IMG_9418-1.jpg

[The WidowMaker]

i got the rear cleaned up and sanded today, so it will get color and clear tomorrow. then comes a short break.

i was organizing pics and looked back to 3 years ago. the pics look familiar, but a lot has changed. can you say deja vu? i actually dont have many of those suspension pieces left either. most of it was new and then was sold............

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/IMG_1897-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/IMG_1888_1-1.jpg

[rixtrix1]

Are you going to install a cage?

[The WidowMaker]

Are you going to install a cage?

the car will have most of its miles on the street, and i'm not a fan of running a cage without a helmet. my job has changed my outlook on that last point, and i acutally cut the old cage out when i started the rebuild. plus, i have two boys that need a spot in the back seat. it would help a TON though.

Tim

[The WidowMaker]

the rear got sprayed the other day and looks really good. the plan is to start getting the bolts together tomorrow and then send them out to have them coated sometime soon. hopefully i can start reassembly in the next couple weeks!!!

[The WidowMaker]

so i got all the bolts together and sent them off to Fabian (1badchevelle) to have them all coated black. i also sent the broken down johhny joints and all the rear brake brackets and everything together totaled 52lbs!!!! there wont be any gold zinc left when its done! i cant wait to get everything back and get it all reassembled. i also cant wait to find a bolt sitting somewhere that i forgot to send :-( ......

Tim

[The WidowMaker]

Got any way to weigh it? I'm very curious.

sorry, i missed this on the last page. the watts crossmember and all the other tubing was right around 40 lbs. a lot of weight, but it strengthens the frame, added torsional rigidity and allowed for a place to mount the coilovers. the inner webbing was probably another 50lbs. a lot of weight, but like someone else said, its the weight im taking off the engine and redistributing to the rear. should help a TON with balance.

[Nick.V70]

the car will have most of its miles on the street, and i'm not a fan of running a cage without a helmet. my job has changed my outlook on that last point, and i acutally cut the old cage out when i started the rebuild. plus, i have two boys that need a spot in the back seat. it would help a TON though.

Tim


I like it...keeping the room for the kids to have fun with dad!!!:cheers: How old are they?

I agree on the cage and ho helmet, seems safe but not and most cases worse.


Fabian does powder coating?

[1966chevelle502]

Just love your project. The chevelle is going to be sweet !!

[93Polo]

sorry, i missed this on the last page. the watts crossmember and all the other tubing was right around 40 lbs. a lot of weight, but it strengthens the frame, added torsional rigidity and allowed for a place to mount the coilovers. the inner webbing was probably another 50lbs. a lot of weight, but like someone else said, its the weight im taking off the engine and redistributing to the rear. should help a TON with balance.
The weight is also low in the car. Keep up the awesome work. :cheers:

[WS6]

I really like your color choices Tim. Congrats on getting it this far. Long time coming but well worth it I am sure.

[wing_0797]

Did you buy that frame new? or did you just add to the frame? and if so was is custom or dose someone make after market frame add ins?





a couple of epoxy pics for you guys. $250 to blast the frame and a few parts that i was too lazy to clean up again.

tomorrow i work, wed it gets filler and slick sand, thurs (burning some sick time) it gets sealer, paint and a nice satin clear. friday i will get the parts all painted up.

more pics to come!!!!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_9312-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/IMG_9311-1.jpg

[dusterbd13]

if you read back throughout the posts, youll see that it is a mix of both. some of the pieces he made, some were purchased and modified. some were modified again later on.

this guy is an artist with steel and a welder.


by the way, ive been lurking for a while. it looks great, especially coming from a red powdercoated frame to this.

and i like the new colors much more than the old.

michael

[The WidowMaker]

thanks for all the comments guys.


Did you buy that frame new? or did you just add to the frame? and if so was is custom or dose someone make after market frame add ins?


dusterbd13 is correct. its a mix of everything. the frame started as my stock 70 chevelle frame and then was smoothed and then based and cleared the red color about 3 years ago. it all got cut up again after i found that i couldnt get the ride height i wanted, plus i wanted to change up the suspension. everything on the frame is something i came up with either by staring at it a long time, or "borrowing" ideas. mostly the borrowing part. the suspension is a mix of parts as well. the front uppers and lowers were bought, but the sway bars and the rear suspension are full custom pieces.

im more than happy to answer any questions you may have........

thanks for looking!!!!

[Danny lindstrand]

great work , nice build thread.

[bryster]

Great metal finnishing skills...Keep it up...

[sprintracer]

nice job!

[The WidowMaker]

got a call today, and the bolts are going to be done on monday!!! it sucks that im working a 72 starting tomorrow and then im in a class m-f. i dont think the wife is going to be too happy if i sneak out to the garage to start putting it back together.

i also ordered up the power windows from mike at musclerodz. after hearing all the bad stories with the electric life stuff, i went with a set up from nu-relic. they are supposed to be way better and no need to open the door to get the window up that last 1/4". i bought them without the harness and i plan to get some billet switches and make my own harness. the plan is to put all the controls in the center console, but i need to figure out the layout with the vintage air controller, power door lock switches, window switches, start button, head unit, cup holders..........

im also debating on what to do about the radiator and it will be next months purchase. since the plan is to run the mast 416, their pcm controls the fans so there is no need for a special harness. therefore i can pick up a ron davis for 1060 or a prc for 800 both with dual 16" spal fans. 260 is a ton of money that can be used elsewhere, but i really want the welds that RD is famous for. everyone says that the prc are just as pretty, but i havent seen one in person.

if i still have any money left to my name, november will be stereo month. im going to get the amps, speakers and subs now, and wait on the head unit until the car is done. they seem to be changing really quickly and i dont want another regret. im undecided between the infinity kappas, infinity kappa perfects, alpine spx or focal vr's for the speakers. amps will most likely be the infinity kappa 1 and 4, and the 10" sub will match the speakers. i still need to do a bunch of research, but i do have time.

maybe i'll have a couple pictures tuesday night????

[The WidowMaker]

just another small update. i got all the bolts and various parts back.... all i can say is wow. they look killer. i havent had time to sort through the 500+ pieces, but i hope to get them organized tomorrow night and start assembly on sunday. i included pics of the spc upper arms. i still need to install the bjs, but the black/grey combo is KILLER. i am almost thinking i now need to paint it black.......

i also got the speakers today. cartoys is giving 10% off already killer prices on this set. front and rear will both get the components, and i still need a couple amps and a 10" sub.

here are a few pics. more to come on sunday!!!!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_9774-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_9777-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_9779-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_9782-1.jpg

[chaz75]

Nice stuff.

[1badchevelle]

Glad you liked the coating.Keep the pics coming.




just another small update. i got all the bolts and various parts back.... all i can say is wow. they look killer. i havent had time to sort through the 500+ pieces, but i hope to get them organized tomorrow night and start assembly on sunday. i included pics of the spc upper arms. i still need to install the bjs, but the black/grey combo is KILLER. i am almost thinking i now need to paint it black.......


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_9774-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_9777-1.jpg

[The WidowMaker]

i got all the front suspension assembled today. i didnt finish until almost dark, so i'll get some better pics tomorrow. i still need to brush the tie rod connectors and figure out what to do with the sway bar heims to get rid of the gold zinc. i also need to feel out the red bump stops a little more. they look really out of place now, and if they dont tie together a little better as it comes back together i will replace them with some black ones.

the rear suspension should be mostly done tomorrow. im also still waiting to get the wheels back. i didnt like the color even though i gave them the code, so they are being stripped and reshot. i should be getting them back in a couple weeks.

i hope to have the frame under the body sometime in the next week. i need to work a couple areas including the raised fuel filler neck relief before i drop it on.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_9881-1.jpg

[Flash68]

Man, that is lookin sweet. Love this thread.

[bullitt4110]

Looking good! I personally like the red bump stops, kinda breaks up the black and gray some.

[The WidowMaker]

so its on the ground now. ive assembled this thing countless times, but i ran into some more snags that need to be worked out.

first, i hate the speedway adjusters. im going to be making some permanent spacers that register on the spring od, not the id. but since those arent done i reused the speedway ones and didnt tack them to the springs like i did last time. so, one doesnt want to sit flat and is hitting the top of the shock. not a huge deal for the shock since there isnt any weight, but it wont sit like its supposed to. so, now i need to research the new spacers and will be making those in the next few weeks.

next, i never fully assembled the rear brake kit from kore3 since the rotor wont sit inside my 15" wheels. this time, i decided to put the parking brake on even though i wasnt using the rotors. i started to read the directions and found that the 1.5" T bolts that currie supplied wont be long enough. so i need to use the 2" bolts from the kit, but, BIG but, there is only 1.5" between the axle tube flange and the lower control arm braket (because i narrowed so much) for one bolt per side. so, all i need to do is flip a bolt around and put it in from the outside. but (another but, its a trend), since the t-bolts head is the same width as the shank on two of its sides it fits in the correct location. a hex head bolts head is larger than that of the shank and needs to be ground down on one side. so i now have 3 bolts solved. the 4th that comes in backwards needs the nut ground. this just makes me uncomfortable because i will end up making the nut pretty thin. i have some ideas, i just need to work them out.

also, i spec'd a bearing from currie and ordered my kore3 kit at the same time. tobin sent the right kit, currie put in the wrong bearing. luckly for me, currie put in the set20 tapered bearing which seems to perform the best in a non floater application so it actually works out better. but it means that the recess that is milled on the kore 3 brackets for the set20 is not there because i wasnt supposed to be getting that bearing and there is about .090 too much preload space. tobin is taking care of me though. im shipping the brackets back and hes going to get them milled. i would have just swapped mine out, but they are now coated black.

finally, i need to take the axles back to currie to have them drill the access hole to allow me to get a socket on the axle retaining bolts. its a pain without the parking brake in place, and its supposed to be nearly impossible with it on. it seems that this should have been done in the first place since they knew i was running a drum in hat style parking brake.

here are some pics though. i havent heard back about the wheels, but i hope to have them soon.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_9942-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_9944-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_9946-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_9947-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_9950-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_9953-1.jpg

[1badchevelle]

man you wasted no time. Since you are done on your frame I will drop mine off to get the "Tim" treatment. I am sure Brandon(brans72) can get in inline. LOL

Why did you weld in the motor mounts & is that the ride tech muscle bar?

[The WidowMaker]

dude, i cant thank you enough for the coating. it is friggin sick and holds up really well to the abuse from my tools. it wouldnt look the same without it.


Why did you weld in the motor mounts

i got pissed at having to fish the friggin nuts out of the crossmember everytime i dropped one. plus, the sandblasting couldnt get to some areas that old grease or my fingers could, and i dont like to get dirty. :)


is that the ride tech muscle bar?

the front sway? thats a bunch of speedway engineering pieces and too much of my time. i would pay the $800 for the dse bar if i had to do it over. cost about $400 to build and it took a TON of time for the pillow block mounts, delrin bushings (that i need to remake) and to get the damn arms bent correctly. i should have also spent the money on the ridetech heims which would have allowed for a little more room.

its 38.25" long, 1.5" .120 wall, 49 spline. they wouldnt sell me the 48 spline since it was too close to the dse bar, and they supply them to dse.


I like it...keeping the room for the kids to have fun with dad!!! How old are they?


my little big guy just turned 1 last week and my oldest will turn 3 on the 25th. i have a pretty busy job keeping my 1 yo from kicking the crap out of my 3yo.

[1badchevelle]

800 for a bar I think I will pass.


I am just happy you liked the coating and that I was able to help out. what are the plans for the fuel system? lines fittings...

I am going to start working on my lines and want to see what you have in mind.

[67goatman455]

whats your address? Im having my frame shipped to you

this is porn for an A-Body guy.....:drool:

[brans72]

67 there are 2 in front of you already hahahha!!! Tim awesome job can you get more pics of bracing and mufflers clearance. Like Fabian said damn you wasted 0 time putting it back together!!! Brandon

[78 Type-LT]

That frame is almost to sexy to put a body on...nice work

[Zanie]

WOW!! That is super nice.

[The WidowMaker]

800 for a bar I think I will pass.

i thought so as well. in fact i thought my $400 was over the top. but i spent a bunch of time building mine which could have been spent with the kids.

thats actually another reason im now going to farm out the paint. my oldest is only 3 and it just seems like yesterday he was born. i want to have fun building this car, but i dont want to miss out on the family either. and, theres still TONS of time left for me to invest. i still have lots of small details to take care of.

[srh3trinity]

The frame looks great. I love the color combo, nice and clean but definitely has a performance vibe.

[72mach1]

That is one sweet frame. Awesome work.

[93Polo]

whats your address? Im having my frame shipped to you

this is porn for an A-Body guy.....:drool:
:lol: My reply on Team Chevelle was thats hot!!

Good to see an A-body that'll give these F-body guys a fight.

[FadedSS]

awesome work man! cant wait to see this thing all finished up!

[67goatman455]

i would hang a picture of your frame on my wall if you had some really nice photos done of it. very nice job

[bonecrrusher]

That frame looks awesome!

[wellis77]

I love this build, looks great! I just went through the entire thread. Very nicely done.

[m6z]

Nice. I think my next build will be similar.

[The WidowMaker]

i finally get to go home and see the car tomorrow after 72 hours at work. i plan to start smoothing the cowl and doing some work to the underside of the body since it will be on the rotisserie. i also havent heard back on the wheels, but they should be coming back soon.

Tim

[1badchevelle]

i also havent heard back on the wheels, but they should be coming back soon.

Tim

That's not good.

[The WidowMaker]

i got the body on the rotisserie today, but spent the rest of the day cleaning the garage. its amazing how much crap floats in even though i do my work on the driveway.

ive been asked about the exhaust and swaybars here and elsewhere, so i took a couple more pics.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_9959-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_9964-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_9970-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_9972-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_9980-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_9978-1.jpg