Project WidowMaker - The Chevelle Build Thread [Archive] - Page 2

The WidowMaker

10-23-2010, 02:01 PM

Hey Tim...
I'm just now getting into the measuring and such for the final ride height of my build plan. The "C" notch you did; any elaboration on that? It's the shape that caught my eye, so I am wondering what you did to get the clearance.
By the way, I'm with you on learning to do and doing everything possible in our own garage. My favorite thread for sure!

my brain is small and i try to cram too much info in. in order to make room for new, old must go. so, i dont know exactally how much i notched it, but i can tell you that the axle was almost sitting on the frame before i started. i would guess it went up 2". i started by welding a 3/16" plate to the inside of the frame rail with the correct height and notch built in. i then welded a 3/16" piece to the outboard top side of the rail that matched the same contour. i would have gone to the outside again, but it would take up some needed tire space. i welded on a piece to the top to form the new top of the rail, then i cut the notch from the old bottom of the frame and welded on another filler piece. if you look at some of the side profile pics, there is a line that runs down the side of the frame. this is the old top of the frame.

but, and its a big but, in order to realize the benefits of the frame notch, there needs to be a notch for the pinion yoke, the trunk floor has to go up above the diff and you will need some new tubs unless you run a skinny tire. a crap load of work for the lowered ride height.

let me know if you have any more questions.

The WidowMaker

10-23-2010, 02:12 PM

I am interested in how you made those pillow blocks and delrin bushings, I plan on doing a simular setup with cheap used nascar parts and some good old fabrication. Your frame is very impresive , I went the tubular backhalf route with a overkill rollcage but yours is much more practical.

more specs ive lost. lol. lets see, i started with roughy a 1.5"x 4"x8" chunk of aluminum. i cut it to two equal pieces and bored a 1 3/4" hole in both for the delrin and two 7/16" hole for the cap heads. the 7/16" holes were counter sunk to hide the heads. the delrin started off as a 2" bar. i actually made up a little jig and used my wood router and table to turn down the delrin to 1 3/4". since the router wasnt perfect, i chucked them up in the drill press and as it spun i used 500 grit to finish them. the cutting and sanding left a 1/8" shoulder that seats up against the aluminum. i then had to bore a 1.5" hole through the center for the bar.

now that i have a lathe, these will most likely get recut. i plan to put some grease groves in them and add zerks to the aluminum.

most pros would laugh at my methods, but i have to work with what i have.

The WidowMaker

10-24-2010, 10:24 PM

thanks for the pics. I'm using Vbands as well but I got two different brands and one brand wont seal. are you happy with yours? if so which brand are they?

i have the same brand, but two different clamps. i bought them from columbia river along with a bunch of other 304 stuff. the first set i got were all 304 including the bolts. i snapped two bolts about a month apart even with antiseize and without any torque (i would squeeze the clamp with my hand to snug them up and then hand tighten the nuts). the second replacement came with a mild steel bolt of a smaller diameter. i plan to get another smaller bolt one from them to match. they were really good about sending them out, and never asked for me to send mine back.

The WidowMaker

10-29-2010, 05:33 PM

heres a small update. i sent the rear brake brackets back to Tobin at kore3 and he is taking care of the machining. i also took the axles back to currie to have the holes drilled for access to the flange and they were less than happy with me. they ended up having to install new bearings, and it appears that all of the studs are new as well. they had to chuck them up in the cnc machine and that required removing all of that stuff. my position was that i had told them what brakes i was running, the offset, the housing length, the bolt pattern, the stud size, the register dia, the bearing i wanted etc., all because i was prompted with " what do you need for......". they didnt do that for the access hole, and since i dont buy axles everyday and they sell axles everyday, i figured that they knew what i needed by what i had told them. they took care of me though, so ive got two of the issues for the rear solved. the last should just be a spacer and wont take too much time.

i also finished some work on the firewall and cowl. i welded up all of the seams and ground down what i could. its still going to take a TON of work to get it nice and smooth, but its closer. i also ground down the plug welds from the quarter installation and welded in a notch for the filler neck of the raised tank.

i plan one more day cleaning up some welds and stuff on the bottom, then it will get dropped back on next week.

here are some pics. i threw in one of a recent project for my sons 3rd birthday. its a late '70's AMF model 508 fire engine that i had when i was a kid. i guess i crashed it a few times because it was in pretty bad shape. there are still a bunch of dents i left in it, but i'll call that character. i did fill the hood and smoothed it out a bunch. a lot of time, and this is 1/100th of the chevelle. another reason somebody else is going to do it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_0165-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_0163-3.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_0168-1.jpg

Flash68

10-29-2010, 05:59 PM

Dude that Fire Fighter is tight!

slipknawt

11-03-2010, 06:25 PM

I would love to paint the car for you...willing to fly out and meet with you and see if we click.

The WidowMaker

11-04-2010, 09:55 PM

I would love to paint the car for you...willing to fly out and meet with you and see if we click.

i'd love to have you paint the car, but its still a long ways off. i'll pm you for a number when i get closer. btw, good to see another chevelle on the forums. good luck with your project.

The WidowMaker

11-04-2010, 10:20 PM

so after spending some time and money on the lathe to get the tolerances a little better and to get something to cut with, i finally got the spring spacers cut. i had been using the hss stuff that came with the lathe, but it doesnt compare to the tool holder and carbide indexable inserts. i spent about $70 bucks for a boring bar, another insert holder and 5 ccmt inserts. money well spent.

so, a little background for those that arent aware of the problem. it is becoming more common for chevelle guys to run a short spring and an adjustable spacer on the front of their cars. all is great, except that the tolerances are tight between the spacer and the shock that has to go through the spacers hole. it gets even tighter when guys run shocks that have a larger diameter, ie. my varishocks. so, the solution is to run a spacer that captures the spring on the od, not the id like the current one. i have to give some credit to bochnak on the chevelle forum for the idea, but we have found through pms that our spacers are completely different lengths. i have a feeling that our different lower control arms are to blame.

the initial idea was to make the spacers the same length as the current ones that are mocked up. i know that i still dont have all the weight on the car so its going to sit a little lower, but my tires are 1" taller which will raise the front 1/2". i ended up making these 1/4" taller than my others which should raise the front another 3/8". the lathe isnt going away, so i will fine tune when the time comes. i also plan to make a few thin spacers that will go under the urethane spring isolator on the lca. the global west arms have a really deep bucket, so i can get a bunch of extra height if needed. i have a feeling that my extra 1/4 will come off in the end.

here are a few pics.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/IMG_0220-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/IMG_0221-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/IMG_0222-1.jpg

The WidowMaker

11-07-2010, 06:11 PM

the body went back on the frame today. i plan to get the rear bumper finished and the rear side markers done in the next couple weeks. you can see how much the rear was narrowed with the old wheels on. and thats with them flipped around for more backspace. more to come.....

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/IMG_0226-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/IMG_0233-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/IMG_0235-1.jpg

dusterbd13

11-07-2010, 06:17 PM

that is just so cool. i love the stance, and cant even see the full effect yet!

Bigmanz

11-08-2010, 03:14 AM

I tip my hat to you man! This is going to be one amazing ride when you finish it. I just wish that I had the skills to do my own ride in the same fashion. I know it would save me so much money here in Tampa, FL! Again, Impressive work!

James

The WidowMaker

11-19-2010, 06:18 PM

I know it would save me so much money here in Tampa, FL!

youre not kidding. i dont even want to imagine how much all this stuff would have cost. i know its not as good as a pro could do, but the price is right and im learning. the learning and problem solving are my favorite parts of this entire project.

The WidowMaker

11-19-2010, 06:18 PM

ive been busy between work, family and the promotional classes that ive been taking. but, i got a little more work done on the bumper. i didnt take a whole bunch of good pics before i started, but i did dig up some that i shot last year at a car show. it really shows how much ive been able to suck it up.

i still need to finish working the sides a little more. if you notice in the first pic of the car at the show, the bumper never followed the quarter in stock form. although i got them much closer, there was no way to make this perfect without a huge amount of work to the bumper, and if i want to get it rechromed it may have been too much. but with the bumper not following the quarter perfectly, it gives the illusion of the gap being off when viewed at certain angles. this is bugging the CRAP out of me. i also started with 1/4" gaps, but decided to close them all up to about 3/16". if you look at the side pic you can see how much black hides gaps. i have since shot the quarter white in that area, and the although the gap looks large, its only 3/16.

the last part will be getting the bottom filler piece fit and making a new "bumper pad". the stock one is rubber, but i plan to do something out of aluminum.

here are some pics of the bumper today and the one i shot at the show.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/IMG_8310-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/IMG_8311-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/IMG_0306-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/IMG_0314-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/11/IMG_0321-1.jpg

Rob68427

11-20-2010, 04:50 AM

Looks Great!
Are you planning on smoothing the bolts?

srh3trinity

11-20-2010, 07:38 AM

Looks Great!
Are you planning on smoothing the bolts?

What finish are you going with on the bumper? I think a satin or brushed look would work well with your wheels.

chunger

11-20-2010, 09:19 AM

Great project, love your work.

I see you added an extension to the rear fenders to close the gap, but I don't see an extension on the trunklid. Was the gap from trunklid to bumper different than the gap from fender to bumper? Or were you able to lower the trunklid mounting somehow?

chunger

11-20-2010, 09:24 AM

What finish are you going with on the bumper? I think a satin or brushed look would work well with your wheels.

Brushed satin or nickel finish looks awesome, but is a TON of work to maintain. I've looked into it and spoken with several chrome shops, some won't do it, 'cause they know people won't maintain them. Essentially what they do, is the stop at the 2md step of the chroming process. Usually there are 3 stages, copper, nickel and then chrome. You can think of chrome as a clear-ish coating over highly polished nickel. For the satin or nickel look, they don't polish the metal and leave it as is. Problem is, the nickel coating is very susceptible to staining of discoloration from any moisture, such as water, rain, splash, dew, etc. You would need to wipe the metal off immediately to prevent a discoloration of the nickel and for most people that's not practical on a street driven car. Show car, different story.

The WidowMaker

11-20-2010, 10:33 AM

For the satin or nickel look, they don't polish the metal and leave it as is. Problem is, the nickel coating is very susceptible to staining of discoloration from any moisture, such as water, rain, splash, dew, etc.

ive heard that the nickel can be brushed and then they can put chrome over it and retain the brushed look. im not sure what im going to do at this point.

The WidowMaker

11-20-2010, 10:35 AM

I see you added an extension to the rear fenders to close the gap, but I don't see an extension on the trunklid. Was the gap from trunklid to bumper different than the gap from fender to bumper? Or were you able to lower the trunklid mounting somehow?

the stock quarters never lined up, and these were a little worse. plus, the cutting allowed them to me manipulated in and out as well as vertically to follow the bumper.

Motown 454

11-20-2010, 11:25 AM

Nice work fixing the gaps on the bumper. Its going to make a big difference.

The WidowMaker

11-21-2010, 04:48 PM

Nice work fixing the gaps on the bumper. Its going to make a big difference.

i hope so. its now easy to see how paying someone to do this kind of work would be big bucks. i spend a crap load of time getting it all nice and aligned and then need to pull it off to tweak a bracket etc.... then its more time to get it back aligned where it was. all the little stuff takes a ton of time.

Bryce

11-21-2010, 05:00 PM

Nice work on this car!

1badchevelle

11-27-2010, 09:06 PM

Tim did you get your wheels?

CruizinKev

11-28-2010, 01:35 AM

WOW awesome work!!!!

The WidowMaker

11-28-2010, 01:33 PM

Tim did you get your wheels?

not yet. now that sema has passed, im hoping its soon.

The WidowMaker

12-11-2010, 09:03 PM

so another 25 hours later (not kidding), the brackets are welded on the bumper and its been off and on and falls back in place. this thing was a PAIN in the ass. the main problem i had was how the brackets mounted to the bumper. since the mounting surface wasnt flat a slight movement twisted the bumper instead of just moving it up or down. since the bumper has dimension to it, and some areas are closer or futher from the axis, a small twist would send some areas +/- .050 out of spec. this caused so many headaches that i was ready to just give up. but, like i said the bumper is DONE. i still need to finish cleaning up the quarters and i still need to fit the lower valance. this was all supposed to be done weeks ago.

like ive said before, i am breaking all of the purchases up and buying stuff in advance. this has screwed me many times and ive sold and repurchased a ton of parts, but if i dont spend it on the car, it gets spent at friggin Target. this month i picked up my single 10" subwoofer and the ISIS inmotion controller. for the sub, and after a ton of research, i picked up a focal 27v2 to go with the focal components. i narrowed it down to a few, but decided to just stick with one brand for the audio. its not a loud sub, but the quality is supposed to be amazing. i'll be building an enclosed box in the coming months.

i also have a little money left to send to mike a musclerodz. ive given him a few deposits which all should add up to a PRC radiator and ac condensor in the near future. i was stressing about the ron davis/prc choice, but ive decided to add an intank engine oil cooler. rd wanted 700 since they cant fit it in a stock tank and it then makes it a tank custom, and PRC wants 85 and says if it needs a custom tank there will be no charge. i think the $615 difference in oil coolers, plus the $260 in base price has made my decision. i really hope prc delivers on their welds. ive seen some really good and some pretty good. rd usually looks machine done.

hopefully i can get the rest of the bumper buttoned up and some new pics soon!

61ragtop

12-29-2010, 08:05 PM

i got all the front suspension assembled today. i didnt finish until almost dark, so i'll get some better pics tomorrow. i still need to brush the tie rod connectors and figure out what to do with the sway bar heims to get rid of the gold zinc. i also need to feel out the red bump stops a little more. they look really out of place now, and if they dont tie together a little better as it comes back together i will replace them with some black ones.

the rear suspension should be mostly done tomorrow. im also still waiting to get the wheels back. i didnt like the color even though i gave them the code, so they are being stripped and reshot. i should be getting them back in a couple weeks.

i hope to have the frame under the body sometime in the next week. i need to work a couple areas including the raised fuel filler neck relief before i drop it on.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/IMG_9881-1.jpg

I posted on the Lat - G thread but this one gives me email notifications (for some reason the Lat-G forum doesnt) Any way awesome build first off!!!!! What black coating is used on the bolts, swaybars, suspension parts..........? It looks awesome and wouldnt mind doing all mine!!! Keep up the awesome work I wouldnt ever guess this is a garage buildif I didnt see the pics on here!!!

The WidowMaker

12-31-2010, 10:24 AM

btw, just a quick update. its been raining here and i havent been able to roll the car out to work on the rear bumper, so i started on the wiper motor relocation. i wasnt able to come up with a way to make it work with the stock linkage, so im mounting an arm where the old motors arm was and then connecting my new linkage to that to power the wipers. everything is still hidden, but im on my 3rd design. its been fun playing with the mill and the lathe. ive run into a few snags, but i'll have pictures and an explanation when its all done. im not sure how others have done it on the chevelles, but i couldnt come up with any other good ways.

The WidowMaker

12-31-2010, 10:50 AM

I posted on the Lat - G thread but this one gives me email notifications (for some reason the Lat-G forum doesnt) Any way awesome build first off!!!!! What black coating is used on the bolts, swaybars, suspension parts..........? It looks awesome and wouldnt mind doing all mine!!! Keep up the awesome work I wouldnt ever guess this is a garage buildif I didnt see the pics on here!!!

here you go. this is all i really know.

Tim at work we use a coating called everlube 6107 gloss or flat black. I had fasteners coated in this for my car.(Link below). I have some bolts I can send you to take a look at. I am sure I can get your bolt coated in this at no charge.

It looks better than zinc and better rust protection.

http://www.metalimprovement.com/coat...cesses.php#cce

61ragtop

12-31-2010, 12:44 PM

Thanks for the help Tim, I will try to search around local here in Canada and see what I can find.

bigbubba

12-31-2010, 12:49 PM

Ive read ur hole thread and the car is going to look super nice

1badchevelle

12-31-2010, 02:48 PM

The WidowMaker

12-31-2010, 05:49 PM

I will try to search around local here in Canada and see what I can find.

i really wish i knew more about it, but Fabian is the man. they have held up great to sockets and the coating doesnt add but a few mils to the fastner size. regular nut/bolt/lock washer combos are a breeze, but the pinch nut locking nuts were just a little harder to get on. i'll have to be a little more careful with my torque ratings.

Tim if you need me to redo any of the part just give me a call.

thanks!!!!!!

61ragtop

12-31-2010, 05:56 PM

Awesome to hear they are good with the sockets that's what I am lookin for. Fabian has filled me in on it. That ms again to both for the info.

The WidowMaker

01-03-2011, 10:17 PM

so here are a few pics of the new wiper setup. its still a work in progress, but now all i really need is the linkage from the wiper motor to my new arm and its done. i have an 18" piece of aluminum hex on order from mcmaster and it should be all i need.

so a little vocabulary to keep it all straight. "arm" is the pitman style arm on the motor and the new arm on the firewall. "linkage" is the stock piece from the wipers to the firewall arm and from the motors arm to the firewall arm.

a little background. i originally thought that the motor only spun 180* and then reversed. its the only way my mind could grasp how the motor could "park" the wipers when turned off. i had thought that when turned off the motor just spun backwards a little more sucking them down. i was wrong. using a method still unclear, the motor spins clockwise 360* and then uses a cam action to make the arm longer when turned off. this is how they are sucked down.

so, the original thought was to just rock the new arm back and forth like i thought that the stock arm went. once i found out that it went in circles it posed a slight problem. the new motor would be providing a lateral force, not a rotational one. meaning, if both arms were the same length there would be an issue getting the new arm to pass both 90 and 270 without ripping something apart. since the stock arm was 2.25" and the dse is closer to 2" (still need to call on that), i decided to make my new arm 2.5". this means that my arm will never be forced to make the full circle and instead will just rock as initially intended.

the other issue was the mounting of both linkages on the new arm. i had a few ideas but settled on this one. i had to do some milling to offset the mounting points and to keep the thickness thick enough to tap, but thin enough to keep the stock linkage from pushing too far towards the windshield. the closer to the windshield it gets the more bind that is introduced. this is currently a sweet spot and there is no bind.

here are the pics. like i said, still needs to be cleaned up.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/01/IMG_0410-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/01/IMG_0565-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/01/IMG_0562-1.jpg

The WidowMaker

01-07-2011, 10:06 AM

i built arm #3 last night but bored .020 too deep for the bearing seat and the snap ring fits too loose. i dont have enough material to bore another .025 and add a second snap ring, so arm #3 is going in the trash after a couple hours work. i changed some things up a little on this one, but most notably i swapped the side being milled which required a smaller relief and it presents with a solid side when viewed instead of the offset notches that you see now. i also overlapped the area around the notches so its full thickness for .188 instead of being much thinner like the one above.

i did however clean up arm #2 above and it looks much better with the newly radiused corners. since arm #3's main difference was appearance, and since you wont friggin see it anyways, i may not build a #4.

i work the next 48 hours, but plan to get the linkage hooked up on sunday after making a few more small parts. i may also do a short video clip to show how it all works.

Tim

ProTourGSX

01-07-2011, 01:13 PM

Tim,
Highest compliments on the finest example of an A-body that I've ever seen! I'm also attempting to resurrect a '70 GS Stage 1, to be improved similar to yours, but have no sheetmetal/bodywork experience.
With the window channels rusted out like yours, do you have more detail to explain or show how you replaced the metal to the point it is? Looks great, otherwise!

I'm VERY interested to box in my frame, and add the crossmember/driveshaft loop/exhaust/transmission channels, too!

Is your frame a Convertible frame, to start with?
It doesn't look like a Hardtop frame, for some reason.

Link to my project:
https://www.pro-touring.com/showthread.php?75627-Pics-of-Stage-1-project-car

The WidowMaker

01-08-2011, 02:56 PM

With the window channels rusted out like yours, do you have more detail to explain or show how you replaced the metal to the point it is? Looks great, otherwise!

i started off on a very tight budget with a stock rebuild in mind. i was going to strip it and get a cheap paint job and drive the crap out of it. then i found the forums............ so, what started as metal replacement in the channels turned into two new quarters once the budget was raised. the channels were my first body work project and they turned out nice, but the car needed alot of work to the bottom of the quarters as well. it was just easier to start over with the new quarters. what looks like rust on the front is just the underside of the vinyl top mixed with some glue. i havent really dug into it yet to find out the damage, but i think its going to be MUCH better than the rear.

i dont have anything really good to show how the work was done. i used a metal brake to from the 90 and then used a stretcher to form the corners. i test fit everything with the window in place and the chrome strip mocked up to make sure it would all be nice when done.

Is your frame a Convertible frame, to start with?

the frame is the original from the malibu. as far as i know the convertible frames were boxed from the factory.

i'll keep an eye on your project.

The WidowMaker

01-16-2011, 07:26 PM

here is a little video of the new linkage. i am actually making the 4th arm tonight. this will have a little different ratio to get a full sweep on the window. the first few arms assumed that the starting angle and the finishing angle would be the same. since that didnt actually happen, even though the motor was moving the arm 4", it was only moving the stock linkage about 3.75". that .25 was a few inches of the window.

theres one other issue that im working out with a few phone calls, but i hope to have an answer tomorrow.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/01/th_chevellewiperonline-1.jpg (http://s858.photobucket.com/albums/ab145/chevelle496ci/?action=view&current=chevellewiperonline.mp4)

The WidowMaker

01-27-2011, 12:19 AM

i finished ironing out the issues tonight with the remote setup. i ended up making another arm.... yep, number 5. this one takes dse's .550 and turns it into about .280. it keeps the wipers much further down using the delay feature. i called them again and spoke about the difference and they cant give me an answer as to why theirs parks the wipers so much more. either way its done.

oh and about 6 months ago i promised myself that i was done swapping unused parts and losing money. but since the brand new tko is up for sale i guess i didnt keep my promise. i have a couple guys interested and the bell housing is already sold. a t56 magnum will be going in its place.

A .

01-27-2011, 01:41 PM

I'm right there in huntington beach also! Awesome build!

The WidowMaker

01-28-2011, 08:17 PM

since i finished up the wipers, im back to the bumper again. i finished fitting the lower valance piece today. it has about 20 slits in the top where i was able to reform it to fit correctly, and both ends needed some work to line up correctly. i now just need to drill some holes for some bolts and then finish up the cuts in the quarter panels. both sides need some work where the top corners of the bumpers meet the quarters. i'll post some pics when done.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/01/IMG_0781-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/01/IMG_0783-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/01/IMG_0786-2.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/01/IMG_0789-1.jpg

The WidowMaker

01-28-2011, 08:28 PM

and the tremec is still for sale. i had a couple solid buyers, but nobody has sent the funds yet.

if anybody is interested, i'll sell the trans (tko600 .82 od) for $2000 or with the reverse harness, neutral safety wirng, speedo adapter and pilot bushing for $2050. If you add a mount and yoke from summit for $100, you end up with the basic kit that sells for $2395 new. so basically, this is $250 off on a brand new trans.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/01/IMG_0793-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/01/IMG_0795-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/01/IMG_0796-1.jpg

brans72

01-29-2011, 03:00 AM

Looking Awesome Tim! Any tips for bumper work? Hoping to get back on mine next month sometime you know how life throws stuff at you and you have to deal with it while setting some things to side. Well see if I can get back to body work etc since some tax $ should be coming in also to. Brandon

Motown 454

01-29-2011, 11:53 AM

Nice work that will make such a difference when your done.

The WidowMaker

01-31-2011, 09:36 AM

Any tips for bumper work?

there are a few areas that need to be lined up perfect and thats what made it so difficult. i think the front bumper is going to be much easier. but.....

i would first straighten everything about the bumper. run a straight edge and make sure everything is good. mine needed a little work along the lower valance area, and my plan is to replace the rubber SS pad with a chunk of aluminum and that needed work as well. the most work was needed up top where the gap between the bumper and trunk lid is formed. the top of the bumper was a little wavy and needed some BFH and dolly work.

i would start by narrowing it. mine was about 3/8". then you need to make the slices and start working the outside "wings". these start to curve too early and end up curving too much. i ended up with 3 slices on each side. the problem is that when you push them in, you also push them down which f's up your straight gap. more work will be needed here. i would then cut the brackets and suck it in as far as you want first. if you do this before cutting the wings, you will make the bumper go in too far and it will hit the quarters. next, work to get your trunk to bumper gap PERFECT and then weld the brackets on. then i would make your quarters match.

i cant tell you how many times i started over. every little tweak changed the gaps .020 to .030 and it was really frustrating. and just when i thought i was done with the brackets tacked on, the final welding changed it again. it looks really good though. its another one of those things you dont pay attention to until you do it yourself. i now notice how every other 70-72 bumper is f'd up. i have close to 100 hours in this thing. i could probably do it in half the time if i did it again. not much less than that though.

Tim

The WidowMaker

02-01-2011, 07:48 PM

just a brief update. i finished welding up the quarters today and i also finished up mounting the lower valance to the bumper. i just need to finish grinding the welds and work on the corners a little tomorrow and it should be done.

also, the tko is sold and i plan to purchase the magnum tomorrow. i need a bellhousing as well and since i have a credit with mcleod, i drove down there today to use it towards one of their 8710-00's. while there, i was told that they are redesigning the part and should have the new bell out in a couple months. it will only have the starter pocket on one side and therefore be a little easier to package.

so instead of buying a bell, i ended up swapping out my rst clutch for an rxt. my rst was the first version, and they were actually going to rebuild mine with all the new updated parts for free since its still brand new. after discussing the intentions for the car, they recommended the rxt hands down. with the clutch material of the rst, it has to be rebuilt if you glaze it. the rxt will actually fix itself after a little driving and is meant to take the extra abuse. they are actually in the process of adding a sprung hub to the rxt's, so i was told to bring it back before i installed it and they would update this one as well. i really couldnt believe the customer service and their desire to only have their best product on the road. things would have been slightly different if i was bringing them a used clutch though.

but, i still need a bell. the quicktimes are a little more expensive, but they are lighter and possibly a little smaller as well. im not sure which way im going to go yet.

Tim

rixtrix1

02-02-2011, 09:01 PM

Coming together real well, Tim. Great detail work, especially in a homebuild. Thanks for sharing.

The WidowMaker

02-04-2011, 06:47 PM

well i wanted to be done with the bumper months ago, and i really thought i would finish it today, but nope. i got the corners finished up and that was about it. now the quarters are done (except a couple tacks underneath the lip that can be seen in the pics), but i need to finish grinding the welds on the bumper and i still need to fill the jack holes. then i have a few more welds to grind on the valance and it should be done. i will make sure a fit the bumper a couple times when blocking the car and make sure the fitment doesnt change very much. there are a couple areas that can be touched up a little. i will also decide how to make the exhaust exit at a later time.

i also took a couple pictures of the newest and final arm on the wipers and another of how it mounts under the fender. i made this arm almost twice as thick where the bearings mount, but the rest is the same. the extra thickness allowed me to retain one bearing with the snap ring, but the second is retained when it is all bolted together. this extra width improved stability at least another 50%. its friggin rock solid now. i still never figured out why the dse cam moves as much as it does, but i came up with my own geometry to work around it.

i also called up summit and ordered the quicktime bellhousing part #rm-8020. i had summit price match the best price which i found using the google shopping site. i friggin love them. it even beat summits pro shop price by 20 bucks.

here are a couple pics.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/IMG_0799-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/IMG_0804-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/IMG_0808-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/IMG_0809-1.jpg

brans72

02-05-2011, 02:59 AM

now make a double wiper set up and send to ME hahahahaha!!!! Looking good there Tim. I finally told the wife here trucks either gonna run in a few weeks or being pushed out to get back to the Chevelle been sitting way to long even though I am broke. I got sheet metal in garage and welding/body wok I can do without spending $. Brandon

JAWSS

02-07-2011, 05:43 AM

Very nice.

The WidowMaker

02-08-2011, 06:59 PM

i finally got the bumper finished! this has been the most difficult project to date, and it will still need a lot of work when i get the car painted. i really wish i could have sucked the "wings" in a little more or extended the quarters as that would have helped with the illusion created by the depth difference. although the gap measures the same all the way across (+/- .010), the gap at the edges appear larger. its friggin killing me! but i think with color the issue will disappear. i debated actually making the sides smaller but the illusion changes depending on shadows. with the sun to the rear of the car everything actually looks as it measures.

i also got the quicktime bellhousing today. i was really suprised to see the block plate, or lack there of. the mcleod is a solid plate with about a 6" dia hole in the center. the quicktime is about a 1" perimeter strip and some more plate that covers the oil pan and thats it. i have a feeling they use the flywheel to keep material from going into the engine, but that doesnt really make me feel all warm and fuzzy on the inside :noway:. i'll call them tomorrow and see what they say. i saved 14lbs though. 27 vs 41. i have a feeling i'll more than make up for that with the larger magnum.

the radiator also shipped last week. mike at musclerodz is the man. i'll take some pics when it gets here.

im going to spend the next couple days cleaning up the trunk lid a little. the gaps need a little more work and the weather stripping channels need some work as well. then i have to pick up some doors and get the sheet metal all fit.

the new quicktime housing......

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/IMG_0813-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/IMG_0814-1.jpg

The WidowMaker

02-11-2011, 08:05 PM

so the radiator shipped out last week and showed up today. a huge thank you for mike at muscle rodz. he was great to work with and his prices are by far the cheapest ive found. for those that have followed, i stressed about the ron davis/prc decision for a long time. i was actually willing to pay the extra money (~$250) for the rd quality welding, but once i decided on an internal oil cooler the decision was made for me. prc was $85 extra and rd was about $800 extra. plus, prc would build whatever i needed for the same charge, and that included welding on the tabs on the side.

im actually really impressed with the welding. could it be nicer? yep. but id still give it an 8.5 out of 10 and considering the linear amount of welding, the quality is VERY good. its going to be a little while before i weld up the mounts for it, but its here and i can mark the purchase off my list.

i also rolled the car out for a few more finished pics of the rear. i now need to decide what im going to do for exhaust. it is set up to exit at the outer black oval, just not sure how im going to do it yet. i was hoping that the area would be flat, but that was wishful thinking. im kicking around some ideas, but i would love to hear some opinions.

oh, and just so you guys can see im not crazy. check out the last few inches of the bumper to quarter on the left side of the car. you can see how just a little is shaded, but that part appears like the gap is larger. the entire sides do that when they are completely shaded and its driving me friggin NUTS. put it in the light and it goes away..........

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/IMG_0825-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/IMG_0832-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/IMG_0837-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/IMG_0834-1.jpg

scemeca

02-11-2011, 08:11 PM

WOW! that about says it all your work is amazing i look forward to seeing the finish product!

MuscleRodz

02-11-2011, 08:56 PM

Radiator looks good, and glad to see your happy with it. Thanks again

srh3trinity

02-11-2011, 09:16 PM

That rad looks like a nice piece.

73z-6sp

02-12-2011, 06:24 AM

jhbnjmk,l

FRENCHBLUE72

02-12-2011, 07:47 AM

The radiator looks very nice and as far as the gaps on the rear bumper I see what you mean what the heck is causing that?

The WidowMaker

02-12-2011, 08:12 PM

Radiator looks good, and glad to see your happy with it. Thanks again

no, thank you. hopefully you get a few calls for some more combos like this. i do have to give todd the credit for the oil cooler since i copied his.

The radiator looks very nice and as far as the gaps on the rear bumper I see what you mean what the heck is causing that?

its shadows and the difference in depth. when its in the light you pick up the vertical gap as if you measured straight down. in the dark my eyes are picking up the gap as measured from edge to edge. since the quarters dont come all the way out to the edge of the bumper, the measurement is larger since its on an angle. hard to explain in type.

CruizinKev

02-13-2011, 08:13 AM

amazing work Tim!

The WidowMaker

02-13-2011, 06:20 PM

so im thinking something along the lines of jcg's camaro build except centered in height instead of the half moon style cutout.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/IMG_0909-1.jpg

srh3trinity

02-13-2011, 07:39 PM

That would look nice. I think it would look good if you used the lines of the taillights as a guide for the exhaust tips.

JayR

02-15-2011, 08:23 AM

That would look nice. I think it would look good if you used the lines of the taillights as a guide for the exhaust tips.

X2! That's exactly what Kris did with the Camaro so just modify the shape of yours to do something similar following the outer line of the valance.

ProTourGSX

02-15-2011, 09:24 AM

I've always been a fan of the '70-'72 GM A-bodies (with a 25 year collection of '70 Buick GS's to prove it), and as much as I do like the '70 Chevelle, I always thought it would look better with the '71 rear bumper, just to be uniform (4 round headlights, and 4 round taillights; instead of 4 round headlights & 2 small/square taillights).

As far as the exhaust tips, the Buick had an N-25 (exhaust through bumper) option in '71/'72, which I'd also like to modify/improve (as I'll be incorporating it into my '70 GS Stage 1, which never had the exhaust through the bumper option), similar to what you're doing with the Widowmaker, Tim!

Now that I see this pic of the '69 Camaro, that is very appealing and inspiring for cars like ours!

I actually get goosebumps every time I go through this thread, Tim, looking forward to seeing the Chevelle finished, and excited to begin my similar build of my '70 GS, now that the 6' snowdrifts are finally beginning to melt away!

The WidowMaker

02-16-2011, 07:56 PM

protourgsx, thanks for all the kind words. i am a little weird though, and i love the 70 rear bumper. dont know why, just havent liked the 4 tail light look. but i like the 4 head lights.......... i couldnt really give you a good reason why though.

X2! That's exactly what Kris did with the Camaro so just modify the shape of yours to do something similar following the outer line of the valance.

thanks for the help. i laid out some ideas today and now have something in mind. i just need to hit the metal shop and pick up some stainless sheet to play around with.

Cris@JCG

02-17-2011, 06:34 PM

Let me know if you need any help their Tim!! Your doing a fantastic job on your car..

so im thinking something along the lines of jcg's camaro build except centered in height instead of the half moon style cutout.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/IMG_0909-1.jpg

The WidowMaker

02-18-2011, 03:10 PM

Thanks Cris! im headed up north either the 3rd or 4th of next month and would love to stop by. i'll shoot you a pm when the date is a little closer.

raustinss

02-19-2011, 06:20 AM

Tim
great build ... and still a inspiration for me to remove my ass from the couch and put mine together lol...back to your exhaust I've always loved the stock tips and exhaust location. I think with the tank location and how the trunk drops off on the sides its the best locale..thanks for all the great ideas ...mainly the rear bumper

Cris@JCG

02-19-2011, 07:57 AM

Stop on by Tim! Look forward to meeting you & giving you a little shop tour..

Thanks Cris! im headed up north either the 3rd or 4th of next month and would love to stop by. i'll shoot you a pm when the date is a little closer.

The WidowMaker

02-19-2011, 06:18 PM

L & H Kustoms

02-19-2011, 06:32 PM

a question for the metal experts; i picked up my new door shells and am acutally impressed with the rear fit of the drivers side so far (still a lot to go). the gap is really consistent and the profile matches the quarter well. i was prepared to weld an 1/8th" round rod to the edge of the door to assist in working the gap, but found that i only need to take off a little in one area. so, would you prefer to weld a rod the entire length of the door, or just remove some material? doing so will likely split the skin, but i can either mig or tig it back closed and then file to fit.

which would you prefer?

i do have to weld a rod to the bottom. the gap is a little too wide (~.320), although very consistent since its within .015 front to back.

also, what do you guys do to build an edge up to get panels to flow better across the gap (height not width)? would you rather build with a weld bead of tacks, weld a rod or do the work with filler?

Tim I would remove material and where it splits just weld it back up.
As far as if you need to add material I use 1/8" plate welded and ground filed to create a consistent gap. You NEVER want to use filler on an edge. If it is a slight gap in spots I just put down a few beads w/ the mig and grind/file to even the gap up. There are several ways to do it. if I need to fill a long gap I add plate. If there are a few smal spots then I put some mig beads. HTH

The WidowMaker

02-20-2011, 08:44 PM

thanks for the info Luke. i worked on the rear gap today and have it looking really good. i'll shoot some pics and post them up tomorrow.

The WidowMaker

02-21-2011, 07:17 PM

i finised working the rear gap of the drivers door today. i filed it down until it was perfect yesterday and then went back and welded it all up to make sure it wasnt going to split. today i filed the weld down until it was perfect again. it measures .190-200 all the way down. the quarter makes it hard to measure since it doesnt angle in 90* but i tried to do it as consistent as possible.

i am still pretty amazed at how well it all lined up. you can see in the second pic that the profile matches the quarter very well for having no work. its in about .015 right under the body line and also a little more at the bottom. i plan to work those areas when i get back to the car next week.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/IMG_0896-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/02/IMG_0891-1.jpg

absintheisfun

02-21-2011, 07:47 PM

what do you use to straighten up the gaps? I used steel rod for my trunk, but it looks like whatever you are using has a straighter edge.

Looks really good!

The WidowMaker

02-22-2011, 02:30 PM

what do you use to straighten up the gaps? I used steel rod for my trunk, but it looks like whatever you are using has a straighter edge.

it was all a weld bead and a file. i would have added a rod, but the gap needed to be smaller, not larger. it filed down pretty nice, but i wasnt comfortable taking .020 off of .035 sheetmetal. so i welded it back up to get the penetration deeper to seal it back up and then filed it down again.

liquidh8

02-22-2011, 04:08 PM

it was all a weld bead and a file. i would have added a rod, but the gap needed to be smaller, not larger. it filed down pretty nice, but i wasnt comfortable taking .020 off of .035 sheetmetal. so i welded it back up to get the penetration deeper to seal it back up and then filed it down again.

I had to do the same with my one 64 Chevelle vert. I had to grind down, and weld it back up, to keep the skin from coming off the inner frame.

Looks great, a time suck, but worth it in the end.

DriverzInc

02-22-2011, 05:00 PM

Keep up the good work Tim! Car is looking amazing. Radiator looks nice, and the gaps on that door look stellar. Best part is you are doing all the work yourself! Kudos bud...

Crestronwizard

02-22-2011, 05:54 PM

I love this build! Great work!I am doing all of mine in my garage and hope I can weld anywhere close to this good.

Jon Clough

02-22-2011, 08:09 PM

those door gaps are top notch

robsquezn

02-22-2011, 11:03 PM

thats is a nice chevelle

The WidowMaker

03-03-2011, 07:56 PM

so i now have both doors on and i have started working the drivers side fender. it lined up decent to start with, but no where close to where i wanted it. so far i have about 5 slices above the body line and about 5 more within the 3 inches below the body line. it still needs some adjusting, but the top half is getting closer. its a total pain in the ass since each small move can make a big change and since every slice requires the fender off, it takes time to get it back where it was.

i also wasted some time adjusting my slices based on how i sighted it. since the gap varies about .050 now, making it sight right and making it follow a straight edge across the gap were two different things. since the gap will eventually get fixed, i had to go back and redo it. still not done, but much closer than when i started.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/IMG_0916-1.jpg

jake8092

03-05-2011, 05:02 PM

I'm at the same point with my chevelle, I had some aftermarket fenders that I decided to ditch. The were terrible! I ended up putting the oem fenders back on the car.

Lookin good!

Flash68

03-05-2011, 05:50 PM

Tim -- nice meeting ya at El Toro. Looking forward to seein the Velle in action soon!

The WidowMaker

03-06-2011, 07:10 PM

I had some aftermarket fenders that I decided to ditch.

these arent perfect. they will take some blocking, but otherwise they are pretty good. i really didnt expect them to line up to the doors. they would have worked OK without all the work im doing, but i wanted them pretty much perfect. the stock ones had some rust issues in front of and behind the wheels so i wanted to get rid of them.

Tim -- nice meeting ya at El Toro. Looking forward to seein the Velle in action soon!

you too bud. i was glad to see it moving and without issues. now you just need to follow dougs path and slap a ls motor in there!!!!

Flash68

03-06-2011, 07:49 PM

you too bud. i was glad to see it moving and without issues. now you just need to follow dougs path and slap a ls motor in there!!!!

Thanks man........ and oh HELLLLLL No! I am more in love with that high rpm 377 than before. Doug can go new school without me for now. Til I break down. LOL

jake8092

03-09-2011, 03:16 PM

That's good to hear! In my case the driver side was fairly close but the passenger was another story...in order to get the door line even within 1/4" it brought the front of the fender 1.5" above the core support! I wish I could remember the MFG but I bought them 6 years ago.

RicerwannaB

03-09-2011, 04:37 PM

Awesome, Inspirational build! Love it.

absintheisfun

03-09-2011, 06:33 PM

awesome gaps you have there! Want to come get mine? :)

The WidowMaker

03-10-2011, 06:13 PM

Thanks man........ and oh HELLLLLL No! I am more in love with that high rpm 377 than before. Doug can go new school without me for now. Til I break down. LOL

it sounded awesome. i dont blame you a bit. this would be back up and running if i didnt find this forum and if i hadnt sold the 350.

awesome gaps you have there! Want to come get mine?

i'd be too expensive, even at a buck an hour. its RIDICULOUS how long it takes to get them really close. hopefully they'll need a skim coat and then theyll be done. i should have the hood back on early next week.

Tim

The WidowMaker

03-17-2011, 06:32 PM

i finished roughing in the door last week and got the hood on earlier this week. i'll finish working the door gap once everything is squared up for good. every small movement changes it just a little, so it would be a complete waste to try to do any more now.

im still struggling with the hood though. im shooting for about .180-.190 gaps and had to make some more adjustments to the tops of the doors and fenders to spread them out just a little and widen the gaps some (another reason im not touching the door gaps till its done). even though i tried to measure and set them correctly when the hood was off, i knew this would happen.

the biggest issue i had was that the passenger side of the hood and the fenders contour were off. by about 3/8"! the front and rear were flush, but the hood sat too high in the middle. i tried bracing it at the front and rear and applying some pressure, but it was going no where. since i dont have my original fenders, and because i cant remember 8 years back to whether they fit this way or not, i had to come up with a plan. i planned to make slices all the way down the inner structure of the hood, but realized that this would take some work to metal finish.

so, instead of butchering the hood, i drilled out 12 of the 14 spot welds that hold the outer fender skin to the inner. i left the front and rear spot welds alone and raised the middle the 3/8 that was needed. i plug welded the holes back up and just need to grind down the welds. its about .020 off in height at the worst spot, but i plan on skimming the gaps anyways, so i figure this is well within spec. i also noticed that when i was done moving the outer skin, a couple reference points now match the drivers side fender. hard to explain, so i'll post up some pics later to explain.

the next step will be to sand off the old paint and the ecoat and start working the width of the gaps. i was surprised at how consitent they are now though. +/- .010 is about what im starting with. i'll see if they get any worse when the old paint is gone.

here are a few pics.

this is the first of the hood after i corrected the high spot. the camera makes the hood look high, but its the angle. it sat about .375" high at the grey spot on the hood.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/IMG_0990-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/IMG_0983-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/IMG_0995-1.jpg

Bryce

03-17-2011, 09:21 PM

nice body work

The WidowMaker

03-21-2011, 05:34 PM

a real short update. i got all the paint off the edges of the hood and fenders today. the hood still had the original green underneath with two red paint jobs on top. so, i ended up moving the fenders in another .030 per side once all the paint was gone. the gap looks really straight though, and i plan to work it a little tomorrow.

i also spent some friggin cash last week. i got my switches from watson street works, picked up all my sound deadening from second skin and purchased the tremec magnum. everything should start trickling in this week. ill post up some pics when i get them.

liquidh8

03-22-2011, 05:59 AM

Nice work! You are spending a ton of time on gaps, but it'll be well worth in the finish, it's all in the prep! Keep the pics coming.

Crestronwizard

03-22-2011, 06:01 AM

I need someone this good to do my body work. 100% zero chance I have this much patience.

Blown73

03-24-2011, 09:46 AM

Tim -

As all have said before, great work on your car. It really is an inspiration for my projects. Thanks!

The WidowMaker

03-24-2011, 08:18 PM

its here!!! i pulled the motor, bolted it up and stabbed it all back in as a unit tonight. i have lots or room still left, so im pretty happy. i knew i would have to change up the mount from the tko, but the ideas that i had hoped would work, wont work. im going to try and borrow a tubing bender and see about making another crossmember. if that doesnt work, i'll cut 4 sides out of some 1/8" flat plate and make something else. i really wish i had a friggin waterjet!!!!

the shifter also threw me for a loop. its acutally clocked/tilted about 5-10* towards the driver. i thought the tranny was sitting a little sideways somehow, but the mount and motor are flat.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/IMG_1020-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/IMG_1019-1.jpg

Chevelle LT1

03-24-2011, 08:24 PM

"the shifter also threw me for a loop. its acutally clocked/tilted about 5-10* towards the driver. i thought the tranny was sitting a little sideways somehow, but the mount and motor are flat." - That's funny, I had the exact same question on my car, too!!

~ Jason

The WidowMaker

03-29-2011, 07:28 PM

i finally got the new trans crossmember finished. i literally spent 10 hours making the damn thing and i have another 5 pieces that didnt quite work. when i made the first, i made the cross, mounted the tabs to it, positioned it, and then tacked it in place. since the front tab was still there, i had to make these pieces fit that tab. much more difficult!

my original idea was to use 100% of the existing tab and not have to weld to the painted frame. but, the magnum positions the mount about 4" back from where the tko was. i wasnt really comfortable building that much angle into the mount. so i had a decision to make. i could either cut off the old tab and weld in a new one, or i leave the original and weld on a much smaller tab to the rear. the first option would have messed up 4" of paint where the old tab was once it was ground off, and it would mess up 4" of paint where i would weld the new one on. the second option only messed up 1 1/4" of paint and won for that reason.

unfortunately i knew going in that the exhaust would have to be reworked slightly. the front section is 3" tubing, but the flex joint is over 4" and is in the way. i was actually surprised that it clears when mounted back up, but i literally have 1/8th. i have to cut the flex out and reweld it back in about 3" forward.

here are some pics.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/IMG_1052-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/IMG_1055-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/IMG_1058-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/03/IMG_1060-1.jpg

supernatural

03-30-2011, 04:47 PM

I love this build ! I just went through the entire thread. I wish I had your skills. :twothumbs

Congrats!

Alex

The WidowMaker

03-31-2011, 05:27 PM

I love this build ! I just went through the entire thread. I wish I had your skills.

thanks. i just enjoy learning. there are tons of builds on here that i envy, and the skills of the builders even more.

i went to opg and picked up the other door today that had been backordered. got it installed and im pretty happy with the fit. not perfect, but good. im going to finish working the hood and then come back and worry about the gaps.

The WidowMaker

04-05-2011, 06:23 PM

i got the passenger side shell lined up. i had previously fit the old door to the new fender and had made a bunch of relief cuts to make it work. i ended up having to do it all over again, but the results are well worth it. i still have about 6" to go on the bottom of the door and then i'll throw the hood back on and keep working it.

also, i contribute pics but very little tech. so.... heres some for you. if you are going with a magnum for your car and you buy the bare trans, the chevy t56 wiring pigtails wont work with the chevy magnum. the reverse solenoid is the same, but the reverse lights are different and the vss is from a ford. i ended up getting the reverse solenoid and light harnesses from Bill Harloe ([email protected]). $24 shipped to my door and the tremec vendors wanted $60 plus shipping. i have sourced the vss for $8 and will be ordering it in a couple days.

heres a pic of the door to fender.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/IMG_1106-1.jpg

Ron.in.SoCal

04-06-2011, 12:00 AM

Nice gaps Tim! I was wondering what the deal was when you mentioned the bare trans/harness issue. Question for you, If I'm not running reverse lights will I still have a harness issue w this trans?

The WidowMaker

04-06-2011, 07:14 PM

Question for you, If I'm not running reverse lights will I still have a harness issue w this trans?

there are no actual issues with the harness, its just that the kits on ebay wont work since they are only good for the chevy t56. the reverse solenoid is the same but the vss is different. once i get my ford vss i will post the site.

Tim

The WidowMaker

04-07-2011, 06:05 PM

i finished up the passenger side fender and remounted the hood today. if its not raining tomorrow i will get the hood gaps complete. if it is raining i plan on remaking the seat brackets to drop the seat another 1 3/4". im also going to get the harness bar bent while i still have the bender. i need to take it back on sunday so ive got to be done.

here is a pic of the harnesses from the source posted above. these are for the reverse solenoid and the reverse lights. the vss will be coming soon.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/IMG_1118-1.jpg

The WidowMaker

04-12-2011, 06:52 PM

i finished up the hood today and will blow it apart later this week to gap the doors and the fenders. so far i have just got the contours on the door and fenders to match. i now need to go back and weld up the relief cuts and then spend a lot of time evening out the gaps.

i also got the harness bar bent up and the seats lowered. the seats ended up dropping 1 3/4 in the rear and about 3/4 up front. i wanted the base rocked back a little and the new mounts do that really well. my head is now much further from the roof and i think the seats look a lot better in the car as well. i dont like seats that are too tall, and these seem to fit good. as far as the harness bar, the plan is to make it removable and use the permanent stubs to mount my 3 point belts. i would really like to make it so that i dont have to remove the 3pts to mount the bar, but im not thinking its going to work out that way. im VERY concerned with the stubs sticking out past the door panel and becoming an object that a rear seat passenger could strike their head on. i have a few ideas to keep them recessed with very little (<1") exposed. more to come.

i know a lot of guys dont like screwing with safety systems that the oem put in their cars (for very good reasons), but i have every bit of confidence that the plan is extremely over engineered. the amount of weld surface holding the stubs and the strength of the material that its being welded to only reinforce my confidence. one only has to look under the car near the rear seat to find a 1/8" plate on the underside of the sheetmetal that the seatbelts bolt to. this plate spreads the load on the stock sheemetal floor and was suffiicent enough that 4 bolts held 3 bodies. since im already having to do the same thing on my trans tunnel to get the inside bolts for the front seats, im not worried about having to do it for the harness bar.

some may question the belt angle needed to achieve my goals. after a lot of research, ive found that the best angle is 0*. either up or down starts to comprimise the belts ability to do its job, and too far down can compress the spine as well. i have read and been told by a couple different seat belt manufactures and a seat company that anything less than 20* is perfectly acceptable. with my 6'3" frame, im the worst case scenario in my car. my shoulder height with the new seat brackets is 24" from a reference point. the center of the tubing is at about 21.5" and im thinking that i can get the belt at somewhere north of 20". the belt will also mount 16" behind my shoulder. the math shows ~14* for the 4" drop and allows a 5.82" drop before i hit 20*. i think im well within the spec. i had considered the belt slipping off my shoulder due to its lower height, but mockup shows that with the distance behind the shoulder this doesnt even come close to happening.

photobucket is down right now, so i'll post up some pics when i can.

The WidowMaker

04-14-2011, 05:24 PM

i didnt get much done today. i started welding up all the relief cuts in the drivers side fender, but some of the welds decided to move a little. i spent the day making it all work again.

here are the pics of the harness bar. i will get better pics once the installation gets a little further.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/IMG_1133-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/IMG_1136-1.jpg

GrabberGT

04-15-2011, 05:38 AM

Would you mind sharing some pics of the harness bar mounting location. Im looking at doing something similar.

The WidowMaker

04-15-2011, 06:34 PM

Would you mind sharing some pics of the harness bar mounting location. Im looking at doing something similar.

i'll see if i can get you some. it will be tuesday before i am home though.

The WidowMaker

04-21-2011, 07:11 PM

Would you mind sharing some pics of the harness bar mounting location. Im looking at doing something similar.

not a good pic, but you'll get the idea. this is a very strong piece of sheetmetal, and is actually 2 pieces thick on my chevelle. the plan is to form a piece of 1/8th plate that starts at the top of the quarter, drops the ~1", comes out horizontal under the tube, and then drops down the quarter another ~8". i need to look into the window and window motor mounting, but i could weld my 1/8" plate all the way back to the tub. this would be the strongest mount on the car if done like i plan.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/IMG_1261-1.jpg

The WidowMaker

04-21-2011, 07:13 PM

well, im still working on the gapping. never in a million years would i have expected it to take this long. if i can keep on my current schedule, ill be done with the sheetmetal in mid may. thats about 2 months behind schedule.

ive been looking into seatbelts some more and i am trying to narrow down my choices. i would really like to just call up morris classics, but he repackages belts into kits that fit our cars. since i dont need a kit, most of the pieces and a lot of money would be wasted. so ive found a few options that are still made in the USA.

what im trying to decide on right now is which buckle im going to choose. i originally wanted a more modern buckle, but after looking at all of the website pics im now leaning towards the chrome "lift latch" style. i would brush the chrome to fit the rest of the car. the problem is that all of the vendors seem to sell the same set, and im not a fan of the male portion of the buckle (see pic). i would either need to fab us some kind of cover, or find a manufacture that has one already done. there is one other choice that is more modern and all black.

what do you guys think?

here is the non retractable version that shows a good pic of the latch. i dont really like the male end. it just seems as if something is missing.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

here is one with a cover. not what im looking for, but im not sure why there isnt a cover on the lift latch.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

here is what i would consider a more modern latch. it may have the red "push" button that im not a fan of though.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

LanceL

04-22-2011, 09:40 AM

Can I ask a question and if it was stated and I missed it I am sorry. Are you tig or mig welding or both most of the stuff? Also where did you learn how to do all this fabricating and welding with your great skill? Trial and error, work for someone and learn from them etc.? Taking tig and mig welding classes to do a project like this and just need to know if I might be over my head? Pm me if you don't want to answer in this thread? Thanks

Lance

The WidowMaker

04-24-2011, 08:48 AM

Are you tig or mig welding or both most of the stuff? Also where did you learn how to do all this fabricating and welding with your great skill? Trial and error, work for someone and learn from them etc.? Taking tig and mig welding classes to do a project like this and just need to know if I might be over my head?

i have mig welded everything but the exhaust. once this car is finished i am going to spend some time learning how to tig weld. i just dont have the time now, and most of the welding was done before i got my tig anyways.

as far as learning, ive been learning as i go. there are tons of hours of welding in this car, and everything i do makes my welding a little better. i have a long ways to go, but its a start.

ive thought i was in over my head numerous times, and it always gets me discouraged. if it wasnt for forums like this i would have lost my motivation and sold the project a long time ago.

The WidowMaker

05-03-2011, 06:36 PM

well, im still searching for seat belts. from what ive found the main manufacture that everybody else sells is beams in oklahoma. they claim to be made 100% in the USA and hopefully that ends up being true. there do appear to be two different retractors though. one has some "knobs" on either end and the other is smooth. theres a picture of each earlier in the thread. i know for a fact that beams makes the knob version, but i was told today by a reseller that their smooth version is made in oklahoma as well. not sure if its beams or not. this seems to be the same retractor that morris uses as well.

im still havent made up my mind on the buckle. i thought i narrowed it down, but it appears that any style female end can be purchased with a locking style male end. not that i think my mounting won't work, but if for some freak reason something happened with my shoulder harness, i would still at least have a lap belt.

i also struggled with the decision of lap or 3 pts in the rear. the plan is to attempt them with 3 points that mount the retractor below the rear deck. i will need to reinforce the deck and the mounting point for the retractor. since the belt will be traveling up through the sheetmetal, i will need to make something to redirect the belt that wont shear it when force is applied. since the factory has been using 1/4" d-rings, my thought is anything with a radius will work. the plan is to either mount some delrin or aluminum that has a radiused slot. if anybody knows of something already out there, im all ears. ive also been concerned with the angle of the slot. when the belt gets pulled out, it doesnt get pulled straight forward. rather, it gets pulled across the body. im thinking this slot will have to be aimed in the direction of the pull. not a huge deal, just more on my mind. ive also thought about putting some bearings on it and making it swivel. this would allow it to retract and extend correctly and my wifes car has something similar on the B post. i havent thought a lot about how i would make it though.

other than that, progress is still going on with the sheetmetal. im also hoping to pick up my door handles from ring brothers in the next couple days. staci is supposed to be setting up a group purchase and as those that have been following know, im a sucker for a deal.....

dusterbd13

05-03-2011, 07:46 PM

i know that with most of my vehicles, they used a shouldered bolt to hold the pivot. no bearings or anything of the sort.

id reinforce the package tray and triangulati it if need be, build a pivitong mount for the pivot, and call it a day.

do you by any chance have a number for the manufacturer in OK? id love to see if they are the same folks that make the XV belts, and if so order direct from them since XV is impossible top get ahold of.

Michael

gearbanger

05-04-2011, 05:57 AM

I would use Morris Classic Concepts belts. I used them in mine and they are very nice. The retractor part doesn't look as clean as factory but it still looks fine. And everything is very high quality and clean.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/GTOFrameOffProject861-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/GTOFrameOffProject8341-1.jpg

The WidowMaker

05-04-2011, 08:00 PM

i know that with most of my vehicles, they used a shouldered bolt to hold the pivot. no bearings or anything of the sort.

the only thing that came to mind prior to your post was a d-ring with a shoulder bolt, but since its going to be sitting flat on the package tray it wouldnt work. your suggestion gives me a couple ideas though.

do you by any chance have a number for the manufacturer in OK?
Beam's Seatbelts • 405.793.0505 • 6420 S. Air Depot, Oklahoma City, OK 73135

I would use Morris Classic Concepts belts. I used them in mine and they are very nice. The retractor part doesn't look as clean as factory but it still looks fine. And everything is very high quality and clean.

billy's setup is really nice, but he uses somebodys belts and includes all the mounting brackets. since im not mounting the way his are set up, i would be paying about $70 a belt more. otherwise, the decision would have been already made and my mind could rest for once.

also, i havent seen one up close so pictures may be misleading, but i still cant believe that the lap belt is mounted like that on the outsides. im not saying that it doesnt work or is anything other than already over-engineered, but it seems like the mounting tab should be in the same direction of the belt, not 3-4" long and perpendicular. it would also better provide for the 60-80* angle off your pelvis that is recommeded. the rule of thumb i have found says that with the seat in the rear most position, you want the mounting point of the lap belt at the fold in the seat. a few other bolt in kits are the same way, so it seems to be more than acceptable.

gearbanger

05-05-2011, 05:54 PM

The WidowMaker

05-06-2011, 03:04 PM

my apologies to you and Mr. Morris. I didn;t even realize that the lap belt is mounted to a bracket that swivels I had not even adjusted it properly before shooting those pics. Also check out the lanyard and the attachment at the top into factory holes. Very clean.

thanks for posting a follow up. i didnt know that the bracket swiveled. that solves the issue that i was seeing.

i think that the installation is VERY clean. im just not a fan of the belts hanging down without a B post. if i didnt already have everything torn up i would just be installing the morris kit.

also, i checked out my silverado this morning and may have come up with a solution. the truck has the belt mounted in the seat, but the swivel for the shoulder belt is not actually a swivel. its more of a quarter circle that allows the belt to slide and adjust to the angle. i may try and do something similar for the rear deck. i think it would look clean and still be very functional.

The WidowMaker

05-16-2011, 05:28 PM

well im way behind on my sheetmetal work. i wanted to be done by now, and that was worst case scenario. im still on the drivers side. its going to be middle june before im done, and its looking like novemeber at the earliest for paint.

i did pick up my door handles from ring brothers. they are currently having a group purchase with 10% off and free shipping. call staci if you want parts!!!

racedaddy

05-18-2011, 12:31 PM

The WidowMaker

05-22-2011, 06:34 PM

Ask the seat belt manufacturer the origin of the yarn. I worked 7 years for a manufacturer here in the states but the yarn came from Korea mostly because it was so much cheaper.

thanks for the tip. i'll ask when i call again next week.

The WidowMaker

05-22-2011, 06:35 PM

i finally finished the drivers side. i will start working the passenger door tomorrow. heres a before and after of the door to fender gap. theres one area in the middle that looks tight in the pics, but it measures and looks perfect off camera. go figure.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/IMG_1426-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/IMG_1489-1.jpg

craigs73

05-22-2011, 07:26 PM

tim your attention to details is gonna make this car top notch what you do to the lines to make them perfect? add round bar?

The WidowMaker

05-23-2011, 05:27 PM

what you do to the lines to make them perfect? add round bar?

its a combo of a file, weld bead, and occasionally some round bar. ive only really used round bar when its really wide.

The WidowMaker

05-23-2011, 06:13 PM

heres the starting point on the passenger door gap and a crappy pic of the door handles. i'll see if i can get a better one.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/IMG_1518-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/IMG_1503-1.jpg

The WidowMaker

05-26-2011, 05:32 PM

passenger side door is done. the bottom looks fine in person, but showing up tight in the image.

i started working on the fender to door gap and should be done by early next week.

before
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/IMG_1518-1.jpg

after
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/05/IMG_1551-1.jpg

The WidowMaker

06-13-2011, 06:38 PM

its been a little while since an update. i had a few questions on how ive been gapping, so i plan on posting that up tomorrow night. here are a couple pics of the almost finished passenger fender. i just need to finish the very top where it is flat. i will do that on thursday, mount the hood and start on the fender extensions.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/IMG_1712-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/IMG_1706-1.jpg

The WidowMaker

06-14-2011, 07:35 PM

i still havent researched the headlights yet, and i probably wont touch the chevelle much in the next couple weeks. life is getting in the way of my hobby again. oh well.

here is a brief "how to" on gapping. it probably isnt perfect, and the experts can feel free to chime in. i must have 200 hours into the doors, fenders and hood so far. i learned that every little change changes something else. and when youre trying to work with .005, you dont need much.

before you start, you will need to make sure that the front end is square since any movement of the front of the fender will either open or close the gap. you also need to make sure that you have the door edges pulled out where you want them and also the contour already needs to match.

this is how it all started. i got the other side done after squaring the front end based on the hood. the other fender was tight to the door in some areas <150, but this one was about .190 at its closest. it was actually over .300 at the bottom.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/IMG_1670-1.jpg

this shows how i add to the door. i took some copper tubing, slit it down the middle and beat it flat. i rough contour it to the back of the door and attach it with the vice grips. the vice grips suck it in the rest of the way and leave no gap. this helps greatly in the cleanup of the weld on the back. also, if you look at the top fender bolt you'll see two little pieces of sheetmetal welded to the cowl. the fender mount rests up against these to position the fender quickly. its simple to grind the back of the door since you can open it, not so much with the fenders. youll also see my impact wrech laying there. i just picked it up prior to the sheetmetal project and it has saved me hours. i cant imagine having to use a socket wrench like i used to. 65 bucks brand new on ebay since it didnt have a battery or a case.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/IMG_1679-1.jpg

this is how it looks when im done with all the tacks. i would do a series of 5 tacks in a row and then skip to another area. since i had two pieces of copper going, i would do one set up top and then move to the other piece. i usually had two areas per piece of copper (between vice grips) and would do all 4 areas and then let it cool really good. if it was warm when resting my hand on an area before starting it would get cooled before starting. no reason to push too fast and make more work for myself.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/IMG_1684-1.jpg

this is what it looks like when all the the tacks are knocked down. i use three tools that work really well for me; an 80 grit flap disc, fiber wheel and a sander conversion with 50 grit. all of this goes on my variable speed grinder which is key. im not sure any of this would work at 15000 rpm. i would knock down the gap with the 50 grit until all the peaks and valleys were gone and i would use the flap disc and fiber wheel to knock down the outside. i used to use just grinding wheels until i found the flap disc. then i used the flap wheels until i found the fiber discs. i dont think im going to find anything else that amazes me like this combo. the flap discs do a good job of quickly knocking down the high spots and they dont gouge like a grinding wheel. then when its close, the fiber disc finishes it off and leave a nice hatch pattern.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/IMG_1691-1.jpg

another picture after the first knock down. you can see its no where near perfect, but the major stuff is flat. this is also the time to check how flat the end of the panel is. i had most areas pull in slightly with the heat, so a hammer and dolly knocks the whole edge back out in less than 10 minutes.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/IMG_1695-1.jpg

now comes the time consuming part. my ideal spec was .175. my acceptable spec was +/- .005 as long as that wasnt right next to each other. my eyes can easily pick up .010, but not when they are 2 feet apart and the countour of the panel is in play. so i start by using the 50 grit paper on the grinder to get everything to .150. there are some high spots that need more love. then it all goes to .160 the same way. i used two points just to keep from going too far. for the .150 youre working small areas. once at .150 youre most likely running the entire edge to get to .160. youll see some .175 markings, but that was before i found a metal shaving in between my stop at the fender bolt. i used a reference point every time after to make sure the stop was working.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/IMG_1696-1.jpg

and done. it looks much better in person. the camera has a way of ruining the depth of the panel and making it look tight down at the bottom where it curves back in.

it will also now get coated with gibbs to keep the rust off until it gets painted. before final paint the whole gap will get a coat of filler. its REALLY close, but blocking will make it perfect.

also, the rocker isnt as tight to the door as it looks. its ~.160 but this pic makes it look more like .100.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/IMG_1703-1.jpg

another profile pic. i wish i would have taken more in the beginning. i cant believe how far its come. i hope somebody knows of a better way to fix the profile than all the work i did to the back. but its the only way i knew how.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/IMG_1709-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/IMG_1712-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/IMG_1716-1.jpg

The WidowMaker

06-26-2011, 09:18 PM

so...... you know that feeling you get when youre about to make a huge mistake and then you catch yourself. well, i didnt feel it, but i wish i did......

i just got the driveshaft back from dennys after a $115 round trip. i had to have it shortened since the magnum is longer than the tko. dennys is nice enough to supply you with a sheet to make measuring super easy, and it was. and my measurements were spot on. problem was i painted the rear when i did the frame and i sent my yoke off to have it coated. when i got it back i put it on the splines and slid it until it stopped. "stopped" is the key word which should have been replaced by seated. but it didnt get seated until today when i jacked the rear of the car up to put the driveshaft in and noticed that the yoke looked a little funny sticking out like it was. when i measured for the first time for the diagram i had jacked up the front of the car and couldnt actually get my head into a spot to notice.

so..... dennys wants 3/4" slip at ride height and i have 1 1/8" now. i dont think its going to be a huge deal. in fact, i dont think its going to be any deal. it just that little things like this piss me off. my only concern would be less support and extra vibration which is something i really dont want. im going to call tomorrow but i dont expect him to tell me to send it back.

The WidowMaker

06-28-2011, 05:54 PM

well i called dennys and they said there would be no issues. they nomally shoot for ~1", so my 1 1/8" isnt too much. he said that if it were 1 5/8" he would worry a little. i never really asked what the issue would be if it were a little shorter. im not sure if it would be a vibration that would ruin the bearings on the output shaft, or if the reduced spline engagement would result in a failure from twisting.

i also started on the fender extensions today. although the first pic is the opposite side, both were about the same. even though it appears the hood could have been shifted back to get a good gap, the angle at the front of the fenders were wrong leading to a crooked gap if the hood was back and the extension was flush on the fender. i welded up the gap along the top and down the side and filed it down to fit. i still need to work the area towards the center of the hood since its about .030 too tight. so far i have about 4 hours in this since it took a lot of twisting and hammering to get it to fit pretty good before working the gap.

heres the first pic. in order to get .175 across the entire gap, it had to be pulled out. i had thought about spliting the extension and tweaking only the hood side out, but decided this would be cleaner.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/IMG_1973-1.jpg

heres the second pic. it snugs up a little more, but im holding it in place with one hand and snapping the pic with the other.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/IMG_1967-1.jpg

and heres the other project ive been working on. so far i have about 4 hours in this as well. way too much time for how little work it appears, but getting it all set up and repositioning takes a lot of time. plus i can only take about .050 in depth and side bite at a time. it will get recessed in the trans tunnel and it will be held in place with some screws that i havent drilled for yet. its obviously not necessary, but i like playing with the mill. each project shows me how much money i need to invest in good tooling.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/IMG_1983-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/06/IMG_1978-1.jpg

The WidowMaker

07-12-2011, 05:48 PM

the sheetmetal work is done for now. i finally finished up the front fender extensions and the bottom of both doors. ive now started on the bumper. in the next month i hope to get the bumper narrowed, tucked, shaved and the plate area filled in. i also tossed the idea of a turn signal incoporated in the headlight and will instead find a thin light that can be mounted in the stock bumper area. the plan is still to open up the stock hole a little more and put the light behind a honeycomb cover. the rest of the hole thats not taken up by the light can serve as some sort of air inlet later if i choose.

the other plan is to get started on the grille. i had thought about a billet style slat grille, but it really doesnt flow. so my thoughts are a stock shaped grille, but 4 sections of honeycomb instead of the stock slats. plans are a bunch of 3/4" square aluminum stock that will get cut and welded with the honeycomb inset. my only other thought is to remove the horizontal divider, but i'll have to see how it all goes.

bhcustomdesigns

07-12-2011, 06:20 PM

You are doing a great job on your panel gaps,thats the little details that seperate a good job from a great job:twothumbs

WS6

07-13-2011, 11:06 AM

Wow Tim. You're really going all out with the panel gaps. The car looks fantastic.

The WidowMaker

07-19-2011, 06:38 PM

thanks guys!!!

ive placed a few orders in the last week. the first was for glass from auto city. contrary to popular belief, money is tight and needs to be spread out as much as possible. i have a closet full of parts for this reason. so i picked up all the glass this month. price was 750 shipped to my door. i ended up getting all smoked glass other than the front window. i requested the front without the strip up top as well. ive never like it or seemed to notice any difference with it.

i also started picking up the pieces for the front end. the first pieces were some led lights for the turn signals. i bought 2 15 bulb strips, but may order 2 more depending on how bright these are. i also ordered a sheet of aluminum hexagon mesh tonight from grainger and im going to pick up the 3/4 bar tomorrow. im slightly worried that the 20ga aluminum mesh is going to be too fragile, but i'll have to see when it gets here. the only other material i could find was stainless and the smallest sheet i could find was over 200 bucks.

the bumper is also about as far as i can get it for now. i took 3/4" out of the middle and am going to pick up some 14ga to shave the license plate recess when im at the metal shop tomorrow. the brackets were also reworked and are now welded to the bumper. i also decided to reshape the ends of the bumper where it wraps around. the bumper has a nice tight radiused end and the fender has a larger radius. the plan is to make both the same. more to come......

preston

07-20-2011, 11:41 AM

The WidowMaker

07-20-2011, 07:18 PM

I've always been curious when guys modify the bumpers - doesn't the metal have to be near perfect to chrome ? Obviously you can't use bondo to clean it up. ARe you just going to weld it up and flap it down ? Then depend on the copper plating to fill in the imperfections ? Just always wondered about that.

theres no way to chrome these for a reasonable price. ive heard of guys paying thousands! of dollars to get bumpers chromed that needed a lot of work. i have a few options; spray aluminum and brush it or just paint them. im probably going to try the first but ive never seen it done on a large scale. in fact, ive never seen it in person. either way i do it i will be able to use some filler and get them nice and smooth.

The WidowMaker

07-20-2011, 07:21 PM

well i got a little more done today. i started cutting out the license plate recess and bent up a piece to weld back in. i also picked up all the metal for the bumper inserts and the grille. the aluminum weighed 23 lbs for just the inserts. its a shame that all but about 2 lbs is going to end up on the ground.

here are a few pics.

overhang prior to narrowing but after working the bottom to make it more even with the top. the bottom was touching the fender before i started and couldnt be narrowed any more.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/IMG_2188-1.jpg

overhang after narrowing
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/IMG_2196-1.jpg

profile across the front. it looks good, but cutting the chunk out of the middle moved it a little. ill try and get it back perfect before tacking the piece in.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/IMG_2192-1.jpg

bumper prior to cutting
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/IMG_2199-1.jpg

giant hole to be filled
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/IMG_2202-1.jpg

SickSpeedMonte

07-21-2011, 04:58 AM

Great work!! I'm looking forward to seeing the grill idea.

brans72

07-21-2011, 06:50 AM

Loving the front bumper so far man!

racedaddy

07-22-2011, 06:07 PM

theres no way to chrome these for a reasonable price. ive heard of guys paying thousands! of dollars to get bumpers chromed that needed a lot of work. i have a few options; spray aluminum and brush it or just paint them. im probably going to try the first but ive never seen it done on a large scale. in fact, ive never seen it in person. either way i do it i will be able to use some filler and get them nice and smooth.

Look into Spectra Chrome (I think that's the name). I've heard it goes on over everything even bondo and looks great. The monster truck Grave Digger's body was done completely in it.

ponjohn

07-23-2011, 02:01 PM

Aaaa-mazing!!

GrnDragon

07-23-2011, 08:12 PM

You are doing some HIGH END body work there in your garage!!!
The gaps look great, and the best part is you are doing it all yourself.
My dad is the best body man I know, so he really crutches me getting better at body work (but he lives 700 miles away now so I guess it is time).

seancarole

07-23-2011, 09:32 PM

Looks like you got down wanna due my 71 & 68 ??? Looking Good

The WidowMaker

07-25-2011, 05:49 PM

thanks for the compliments guys!!!!

Look into Spectra Chrome (I think that's the name). I've heard it goes on over everything even bondo and looks great. The monster truck Grave Digger's body was done completely in it.

thanks for the tip. im still not sure what i want. the plan has always been for brushed bumpers. i have to see if thats possible with any of the chrome paint products. but, i still think the spray aluminum powder is going to be the easiest if i want brushed.

The WidowMaker

07-25-2011, 05:54 PM

i finished up the center of the bumper today. a skim coat of filler when its painted or sprayed with aluminum and it will be good. i plan to work the corners when the grille is finished. i dont want to do those since i have a feeling ill move the bumper a little to fit the grille.

i also called up seat belts plus today and found that they switched suppliers from beams to seat belt solutions last year. a call to them and i found out that the webbing is made in the USA along with assembly and most parts. just little pieces in the retractor are made overseas. im going to finally finish my decision and get the belts this week.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/IMG_2220-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/IMG_2227-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/07/IMG_2228-1.jpg

Motown 454

07-25-2011, 06:09 PM

That looks so different with that done. Very nice.

The WidowMaker

07-29-2011, 04:33 PM

Thanks!

the grille material came in and i finished the front pieces for the bumper intakes. they started life as 2 1.5" 8lb chunks and ended at less than a lb. ive got ~10 hours into the 2 pieces. the next two should be easier since there arent as many angles. if the bumper was straight up and down on the front i could have saved half that time.

ill have some pictures up on monday. i also came up with a few new ideas for the grille that will make it easier but more time consuming to fab. i will hit the metal shop again on wednesday.

sr73bu

07-29-2011, 04:50 PM

Outstanding work! All this detailed work is going to look amazing together as a final package...Keep it up!

-Sean

craigs73

07-29-2011, 08:33 PM

Your doing a awesome job.…… I bet after cars all said and done no ones gonna believe you built this car in your garage!!!!

The WidowMaker

07-30-2011, 06:44 PM

does anybody have any info on leds? my plan is to use 1" of the 3.5"s in the inserts for for amber led light strips that will function as my forward turn signals. ill then cover that with some sort of prismatic diffuser and then a clear plexiglass. this will all be behind the hexagon mesh. currently im looking at the smd5050's and will run 2 6" strips per light. this will get me 18 leds of ~6 lumens each for ~110 total (2000-2500 mcd 120* conversion). the best info i could find put the stock amber bulb or the white bulb through the amber lense at ~80 lumens. the mesh is only 70% open so it will kill some light. im trying to come up with the best design possible that will get me the most visible forward projection. ive also looked at the side projection strips that would either allow more leds, or possibly building in some sort of reflector behind the leds since they wont take up as much space.

also, any good sources? i found these and they have good reviews, just not really sure. http://www.ledlightsworld.com/smd-50...eds-p-135.html

The WidowMaker

08-01-2011, 07:13 PM

i bought the leds last night. i ended up getting them from ledlightsworld.com. i looked into superbrightleds and found a bunch of people unhappy with the length of time they would last. no bad reviews on the other company. they should be here some time early next week.

i taped (literally) in the inserts this afternoon. i could have cut the hole around the existing one, but i wanted them centered in the bumper a little more. i will have to come back and fill in the top. i am also trying to decide how to mount them. the two choices are either a visible fastner from the front, or hide them all in the back. after that, the outside corners need to be rounded and i need to figure out what sort of profile i want on them.

i started on the second piece of the inserts today. i will cut them to size and get them mounted to the first piece on wednesday. i'll have to wait until i get the leds before i hog out the inside.

i also finalized my design for the grille. like anything and everything else, its way more complicated than i initially thought. if you view it from the side its actually tilted ~6.5* forward at the top. i knew this going in but the plan was to build it vertical since i thought the outsides were vertical. turns out the outsides are also tilted forward the same amount, so the grille is getting built with that angle in mind. it now means instead of setting up the mill vertical, i have to mill everything on an angle. i'll take a bunch of pics and let you all know how it goes.

here are some pics of the inserts. there is a little slop to get them straight. still not sure what i want to reference level off of. the bumper on the inside edge of the inserts is taller than 8" further out. this keeps screwing with my eyes and making me think theyre crooked.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/IMG_2278-1.jpg

you can see they arent perfectly flush and the top portion of the original hole needs to be filled. the bumper will need a little work until it is.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/IMG_2275-1.jpg

dusterbd13

08-02-2011, 03:59 AM

id say go with what looks right to the eye for setting them up. if theyre level, but look crooked, theyre still crooked to the eye. get what i mean?

devwil68

08-02-2011, 06:35 AM

its really coming along! looking great.

The WidowMaker

08-06-2011, 02:15 PM

if theyre level, but look crooked, theyre still crooked to the eye. get what i mean?

completely. problem was my wife thought they were tipped one way and my eyes saw another. and i thought we'd finally agree on something.

Nick.V70

08-08-2011, 07:52 AM

Man that bumper looks AWESOME Tim!!!

The WidowMaker

08-08-2011, 03:44 PM

heres the first piece of the grille. now i just need to makes the sides and i can start assembly. i also wish i had a mill (or talent) that allowed me to make pieces that didnt need any cleanup. theres obviously very little slop in the mill, but very little is still too much.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/IMG_2303-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/IMG_2308-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/IMG_2305-1.jpg

SShep71

08-09-2011, 12:56 AM

SShep71

08-09-2011, 01:00 AM

P.S. The majority of mills I have ever come across have "split nuts" that allow for tightening of the ways and drive/lead screws to take the "slop" out of the mill

The WidowMaker

08-09-2011, 08:36 AM

If you want less cleanup and a cleaner finish you should look into a larger face mill with replaceable inserts. Then turn the RPM's up a little remember (cutting speed x4 /diameter). Also check the index of the mill head, and ensure it is within .0005 of the opposite side. Just remember your not a CNC, manual machining always takes some polishing. A indexible insert with a larger cutting edge radius will produce a smoother finish.

P.S. The majority of mills I have ever come across have "split nuts" that allow for tightening of the ways and drive/lead screws to take the "slop" out of the mill

thanks for the suggestions. im still learning so any and all tips really help. ive looked into the indexable insert cutters and im thinking about picking one up. unfortunately i cant turn the speed up any more. i need to do some calcs and find the actual speed now. ive been trying to use a 1" cutter to take advantage of a little more speed as well.

i do have the abilty to adjust the table, but they are worn where they were heavily used (1943 machine for hughes aircraft). if i tighten them up too much in the middle they are tight on the outside. my quill and knee are VERY good though, at least for my specs.

SShep71

08-09-2011, 09:24 AM

If you can look into a 4" face mill. The diameter would bring your speed up a lot, and you can get a used one on ebay for a pretty reasonable price. Unfortunately thats the problem with any machinery, not just old stuff. The ways get worn in the typical spots. You should ask at one of the machine shops that rebuilds them. To have the ways scraped (ground) may only cost a few hundred bucks, but its cheaper than buying a different mill. Machinery isnt that hard to rebuild either. If you have any questions or need a few tips and cheats let me know. Im only down in San Diego so if you needed the help im only a short ride away. Plus I wanna see this car up close.

Agalaviz2

08-09-2011, 12:41 PM

great job documenting all of the fab work youve done! the car is truly going to be a one of the kind!

keep up the good work!

-Andy

SShep71

08-09-2011, 08:23 PM

Tim,
When you did the drive shaft loop on the #2 crossmember how tall did you make the loop? I am going a similiar way but dont have the time to put the body back on th eframe and take it off again.

SparkyRnD

08-10-2011, 06:28 PM

really cool build, would love to see it finished

The WidowMaker

08-11-2011, 08:53 AM

Tim,
When you did the drive shaft loop on the #2 crossmember how tall did you make the loop? I am going a similiar way but dont have the time to put the body back on th eframe and take it off again.

thats a good question. short answer is probably 7-8" although i dont remember for sure. i had the frame set at ride height, allowed for +/- 3" of travel and added a little more to either end. i then took the ds measurement, how far back the loop was and accounted for the 3" dia of the shaft itself. you also have to remember that i dont have a stock ds tunnel so mine could be taller.

SShep71

08-11-2011, 11:34 PM

I forgot your tunnel was modified. I guess Im shooting from the hip on this one.

The WidowMaker

08-13-2011, 07:23 PM

I forgot your tunnel was modified. I guess Im shooting from the hip on this one.

its going to be tough without the body. i know that my ds hit the floor way before my suspension bottomed out though. that was the main reason for the taller tunnel.

the only thing i can think to do is use the body mount holes to try and get a close enough measurement.

The WidowMaker

08-17-2011, 10:19 PM

heres a pic of the grille. i still have to cut the middle bars to length and it obviously still needs to be welded. i hope to have it done by the end of next week.

im also gathering quotes right now on the motor. im still not settled on a builder, but mast, wegner and hke are the front runners. if anyone has any reviews or advice id love to hear it. if you'd rather not post, shoot me a pm.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/IMG_2364-1.jpg

craigs73

08-18-2011, 06:57 AM

grill looks cool but not seeing what it looks like in my head lol

scikotictc232

08-20-2011, 05:01 PM

just spent the last three days reading a lil at a time like i was reading an internet book, great job and a great spot to find motivation for all our personal projects, for learning as you go you do a damn well job at it, keep it up the car looks great..

The WidowMaker

08-22-2011, 07:06 PM

getting closer. ive only knocked to tops off the welds and i still obviously need to weld in the center bars. when its mounted only 3/4" of the solid ends will be visibile. it will give it the full perimeter that i was looking for.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/IMG_2459-1.jpg

SShep71

08-22-2011, 07:35 PM

What filler rod did you use to make the welds? Some filler rod cleans up and blends in better, the type of filler that is mainly used for ornamental welds. I used it before when I used to weld aluminum hand rail.

The WidowMaker

08-25-2011, 07:34 PM

i used 4043. it wasnt the rods, its just that i suck. the middle bars welds turned out much better. i need to keep practicing, especially on a weld longer than 3/4". its real tough to get started and stop in less than 5 seconds. i also just picked up a foot pedal for this project. i had been using the hand controls and could never get used to them. the foot pedal was MUCH better.

The WidowMaker

08-25-2011, 07:36 PM

still needs a lot more work, but its getting closer.....

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/IMG_2467-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/08/IMG_2469-1.jpg

craigs73

08-25-2011, 07:40 PM

looking good cant wait to see it with the mesh that will set it off

rfalker1

08-26-2011, 03:36 AM

You got one hell of a chevelle Tim, I mean come on Focal Speakers!!!!!

Looks great man, looks great

devwil68

08-26-2011, 04:19 AM

love the grill...its the little things that count

Bryce

08-26-2011, 05:49 AM

That grille is looking sweet!

Global Warmer

08-26-2011, 05:57 AM

Thats a beautiful grill wow just wow

Protournova

08-26-2011, 06:36 PM

I'll add to the list of... WOW!

camloops11

08-27-2011, 01:48 AM

Dumb question but, where did you get that mesh and what kind of mesh is that? - Was thinking of replacing the lower grills of the 80 firebird's nose, thanks.

Ron.in.SoCal

08-27-2011, 10:05 AM

love the grill...its the little things that count

That grille is looking sweet!

Thats a beautiful grill wow just wow

I'll add to the list of... WOW!

Yep...nice work Tim!

The WidowMaker

08-29-2011, 08:48 AM

Dumb question but, where did you get that mesh and what kind of mesh is that? - Was thinking of replacing the lower grills of the 80 firebird's nose, thanks.

its from grainger. mcmaster had the same stuff. 20ga aluminum. ~40 bucks for the sheet. im wondering if its almost too open. im hoping that the paint will make it look a little better. theres actually a small piece of it in both pics and its pretty hard to tell that anything is there. it looked really good in the bumper inserts though.

SShep71

08-30-2011, 06:39 PM

Tim,
Sorry it took a bit to get back to you, the Army pulled me away from civilization AGAIN, and I am only getting internet over a satellite. Im not too sure about the 4340 filler rod. The actual welds dont have to look all that great being as that you are just going to sand them down anyway. The thing I see being a problem is that if you plan on just leaving the grill natural finish you are going to see the welds because they will not match the parent metal in color and appearance. If you are having a hard time with the quick weld time you should try to adjust the ramp up and ramp down feature of your welder as well as the arc frequency. It helps with the shorter welds, or you can try to go with a smaller tungsten. Anyway, Im not even sure if Im too late and the grill is done. However I hope this helps. When I get back to CONNUS I will look and see if there are any recent pictures (as of now I cant see them)

jgpclone

08-31-2011, 12:02 AM

lookin good man nice work

The WidowMaker

08-31-2011, 06:01 PM

Anyway, Im not even sure if Im too late and the grill is done. However I hope this helps. When I get back to CONNUS I will look and see if there are any recent pictures (as of now I cant see them)

thanks for the help. grille is done for the most part, at least the welding. i got it mounted up today and now am going to start working on the closeout. i'll see if i can get some pics up tomorrow.

TN10.5Guy

09-29-2011, 02:58 PM

darkgable79

09-30-2011, 06:17 AM

I usually read just a few pages on build threads, but the fact that you're doing this whole thing out of your garage had me reading this whole build since 6:30 this morning. Excellent work. Can't wait to see more updates.

SShep71

10-12-2011, 06:44 PM

No more updates Tim?

kmdracer

10-12-2011, 09:12 PM

Well, I just read the whole thread as well. Most excellent work here. Hope all is well with you and your family, and look forward to seeing this completed.

The WidowMaker

11-05-2011, 06:33 PM

No more updates Tim?

ive been pretty sick over the last 2 months. finally started feeling a little better last week and im back to about 90% strength now. docs still have no idea what is wrong, but theyve ruled out most of the bad stuff.

i didnt touch the car the entire time, but i did get my wheels mounted up today. ill try and get some pics up on monday.

craigs73

11-05-2011, 07:27 PM

sorry to hear this tim glad your ok tho... this is one of my favorite builds just because of you doing it all in your garage. the quality is that of some of the high end shops on here. you should be proud of what you have done

Roadbuster

11-05-2011, 08:12 PM

Glad you are feeling better!

SShep71

11-06-2011, 03:37 PM

Hey Tim,
I figured something was up, that sucks but its good that your feeling better.

The WidowMaker

11-07-2011, 09:23 AM

What width and offset did you go with for the front wheels. I talked to Jason at rushforth about doing a set of rated x's for my 70 velle. I was thinkin of going with 19's all the way around but he said ther was only 2 choices for a 315 in the rear, soo.... Now I'm not so sure what I'm gonna do. My front suspension will be the same as yours but I may buy the d.s sway bar

sorry its taken so long to get back to you. they are a 19x9.5 and my invoice shows 6" bs. im also running a 275/35/19 tire. although they fit at ride height and pointing forward, i havent cycled the suspension or cranked the steering wheel to see if there are any clearance issues. knowing jon there wont be, but im also lower than most like to run.

sorry to hear this tim glad your ok tho... this is one of my favorite builds just because of you doing it all in your garage. the quality is that of some of the high end shops on here. you should be proud of what you have done

Glad you are feeling better!

I figured something was up, that sucks but its good that your feeling better.
thanks guys. it was pretty tough on the kids and wife, but theres finally light at the end of the tunnel.

burnout

11-07-2011, 11:57 AM

Your chevelle is amazing! All the fab work looks fantastic. Hope to see you back in your garage getting this badboy finished up !:drive:

The WidowMaker

11-08-2011, 01:16 PM

here are the pics of the new wheels. 3 piece rushforth wildsides. 20x11 315/35/20 rear, 19x9.5 275/35/19 fronts. rear has a lot of room to come down, but it would be a reverse rake. i have about 4.25" to the front crossmember. i may come down another 1/2", but thats the limiting factor on how much more i could drop for an actual ride height. i wish i could do more, but its really not possible.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/IMG_3185-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/IMG_3187-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/IMG_3195-1.jpg

LSxChevelle

11-08-2011, 01:25 PM

Looking great!

Ron.in.SoCal

11-08-2011, 01:58 PM

Hey Tim - glad your health is improving! Those wheels and ride height look perfect. Take care buddy...

csouth

11-08-2011, 02:06 PM

I love the stance on your car. Those 3pc Rushforths are sweet! Really makes me want to do coilover in the end vs. lowering springs.

Flash68

11-09-2011, 12:35 AM

Tim, that looks killer. Great job on that. And hope you continue improving. Health is above all else.

T_Raven

11-09-2011, 06:54 AM

Very nice wheels

solarguy09

11-09-2011, 07:35 AM

Wow....

I just got here, and went over your thread.... Wow...Very Nice....

First, I hope your health get better and they figure out what is wrong..

Also, your work is great, and great choice on the Wheels.

I tried and tried to find wheels other than Jason's...Less money, More money. None would do. He is great to work with, and My wheels are being built now...Congrats on what is a Sweet Chevelle..

My Car is Bucket List....Owned since 1983, and since I was on my Death bed last year with Major Heart and Brain issues, I thought it was time to get the Bucket List started...

But your Car...Wow....Done all by you and Super Buffed.....

May the man upstairs give you the health to see it through, and enjoy it for years to come...

The WidowMaker

11-10-2011, 10:30 AM

Very nice wheels

Hey Tim - glad your health is improving! Those wheels and ride height look perfect. Take care buddy...

Tim, that looks killer. Great job on that. And hope you continue improving. Health is above all else.

I love the stance on your car. Those 3pc Rushforths are sweet! Really makes me want to do coilover in the end vs. lowering springs.

thanks guys. wheels look good and being a bit healthier is always nice. its always a bit scary when the docs tell you it doesnt make sense. google is the worst place to ever search when youre sick. and being around paramedics that know enough, but not everything only makes it worse.

My Car is Bucket List....Owned since 1983, and since I was on my Death bed last year with Major Heart and Brain issues, I thought it was time to get the Bucket List started...

But your Car...Wow....Done all by you and Super Buffed.....

May the man upstairs give you the health to see it through, and enjoy it for years to come...

i learned that i need to slow down, but this car is going to get done. i hope your able to do the same.

solarguy09

11-10-2011, 10:44 AM

Tim..Type "A" personality ,is hard to stop....
We get a lot done, but it can hurt us..
Glad you learned what to do to slow down...I am working on it....

The WidowMaker

11-18-2011, 04:00 PM

i was back to feeling like crap last week but doing better today again. so heres the newest addition. its still a little rough but this is what i got done a little over a week ago. it will end up tying both fenders together and going up over the core support. i need to get the radiator mounted to see if that will be covered or left exposed.

one issue needing a solution is the hood latch. the pin should end up going through the piece thats floating in the middle. not 100% sure how i will finish that piece, but its roughed.

i also need to know if im going to use the hook or not since it complicates the plan. i planned on mounting a solenoid that would pop the pin since i took the stock release out of the bumper. the concern would be the solenoid popping the pin while driving and not having the hook to keep the hood in place. anybody else feel comfortable drving with only the pin? ive never had a hood pop to the hook before, but it would be a huge deal if it did without a hook.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/IMG_3285-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/IMG_3287-1.jpg

Protournova

11-18-2011, 06:27 PM

What about hood pins, you could make something yourself that fits the car..

Stay healthy.. so we can see you finish this car!!

Poopy

11-18-2011, 07:39 PM

Wow nice work...incredible build out of that garage!

SShep71

11-18-2011, 08:00 PM

Tim,
You could do a solenoid or linear actuator that locks the hood down tight when the car is in dive but releases when the car is in neutral or park. It wouldn't be all that hard.

Where did you get the stainless steel tubing for the exhaust?

LowFast

11-19-2011, 05:25 AM

I love your new high-performance intake system.:)

LSxChevelle

11-19-2011, 09:20 AM

I love your new high-performance intake system.:)

Took me a bit to figure out that must be to set the right amount of weight up front.

T00LMAN

11-20-2011, 01:56 PM

I love your new high-performance intake system.:)

I kind of had a thought through out the build that the car was being set up as for sand bagging. My thoughts have now been confirmed. :lol:

The WidowMaker

11-20-2011, 03:18 PM

I love your new high-performance intake system.

ha. 200lbs on the nose for cheap. i dont want to cut down my spacers only to have to shim them back up. i figure between the motor, interior, myself and misc stuff im probably still a little light.

Where did you get the stainless steel tubing for the exhaust?

most bends are from summit and are pypes brand combos. bought the straights and other bends from columbia river. i would buy everything from cr if i did it again. the pypes stuff was not round or consistent in dia throughout the bend and made it a pain to match pieces up if cut in the middle.

78 Type-LT

11-21-2011, 04:59 AM

This is a sema quaility build..i love it..

snappytravis

12-18-2011, 09:27 AM

Nice gaps, I had to do the same thing what a pain my trunk edge qtrs had to be cut and moved in as well, What is the wiper motor setup you are using? I like your car your doing a great job it will be worth it in the end keep me posted

sixfivepost

12-18-2011, 08:10 PM

Unbelievable build! It just proves what can be done with dedication, lots of time in the garage, ingenuity, and will power!

The WidowMaker

12-20-2011, 05:13 PM

What is the wiper motor setup you are using?

its the dse kit. im not totally happy with it though. if youre not worried about the park feature it works great, but i have/had issues with it parking the wipers too far. this meant that the spot they stopped for the intermittent was too far up the window. i took some videos of the stock motor and the dse motor showing that theirs moved further backwards, but they told me that there was nothing they could do and thats how it was designed. i ended up making my arm cancel out some of their movement which keeps it from parking so far.

still no updates. still feel like crap. im going on 14 weeks now. docs still think it was a virus so im keeping my hopes high that i will kick this soon. im trending better which is nice, its just depressing to feel like this for this long......

Ron.in.SoCal

12-21-2011, 08:58 AM

Hang in there Tim! We'll wait for your updates, so take of yourself...:thumbsup:

dug

12-21-2011, 10:22 AM

I've looked a lot of build threads over the past several years (not all on this site) and I have to say this is in my top 3 favorite builds for quality, uniqueness and ****ing awesomeness. I hope you feel better soon to post up more updates.

Capown

12-21-2011, 01:54 PM

OMG!! Well after about 2 1/2hrs I've read this thread and wanting more lol!! I'm going to stop saying I can't do this type of build and admit I'm just too lazy to try. You've shown with the drive and a few tools to start the possibilities are endless. Awesome work and hope your back to 100% soon.

The WidowMaker

03-14-2012, 03:25 PM

well, im almost back to normal. ive taken about 6 months off the car and im starting to feel much better now. im still a little dizzy and have some mild shakes, but im back to about 95% mentally and 75% physically. still not sure what the hell happened, but the docs still think i had a bad virus. being that im around sick people all the time, it makes some sense. over the past few months ive learned that when my body tells me to slow down, i have to slow down. before it all started i had a mild cold and was still working out hard and pushing myself on some short 3 mile runs. no more of that. i think if i would have rested at the start, the last 6 months wouldnt have happened. plus its made me reflect on life and the family and where my priorities were. cars going to get done, i just cant spend 3-4 hours a day on it anymore. luckly, its not too far from being finished. im still hoping to have it in paint by the end of summer. its a year behind schedule, but at least it will be done. i just need to figure out where i left on and start working on it again. more to come soon......

Zanie

03-14-2012, 07:46 PM

Glad to hear you are on the mend, Tim. Your audience will patiently wait.....well, maybe not patiently.

I'm looking forward to your return.

craigs73

03-14-2012, 09:28 PM

Glad to hear you are on the mend, Tim. Your audience will patiently wait.....well, maybe not patiently.

I'm looking forward to your return.

x2 get well soon

SShep71

03-15-2012, 09:54 PM

I was starting to wonder what was up, but Im glad to hear your gettin better. If you ever need any help with the car just let me know Im close enough.

jc70chevy

03-21-2012, 10:25 PM

seriously glad your doin better man. i know youve been alot of help. to alot of us keep up gud work but also keep your health up.

The WidowMaker

04-10-2012, 01:38 PM

finally got some progress done on the closeout panel. i ended up flush trimming it to the grille and started making the rest of the panel. i debated including the radiator under the panel, but left it out. i think it looks great and dont really want to hide it. i'll post some pics up tomorrow when i get a little further.

also, i need to come up with another material for the grille. the hex mesh just isnt doing it for me. even when painted black it almost doesnt exist. ive seen some honeycomb sheets that i may use if i can find one thats ~3/16 thick. this would give the appearance of being more closed off which i think it really needs.

still hoping to get the car in paint by the end of summer if jcg has room. its going to take some work to get it there, but it needs to get done. my plan was to build it completely with a running motor and all before tearing it back apart. since being sick set me back about 6 months i dont think thats going to happen. hopefully i dont ruin too much by doing the work after paint. im also hoping that working on the car doesnt set my health back at all.

SShep71

04-10-2012, 02:10 PM

Glad to hear your up and moving! Instead of replacing the mesh try to double it up. Set your first mesh and space a second piece of mesh about a half inch behind it a different color or a different shade of your current color.

The WidowMaker

04-11-2012, 06:50 PM

Set your first mesh and space a second piece of mesh about a half inch behind it a different color or a different shade of your current color.

good idea and something i will try.

The WidowMaker

04-11-2012, 06:51 PM

here are a few of the pics. still not finished, but close. the main piece still needs to get extended all the way to the fenders and where the top piece flares out isnt quite done. the whole back side of the top piece rolls down 3/4" to make a nice lip in the rear, but there isnt one yet where the piece slopes down. when this piece is welded in the transition between the center and the little edge flares will get radiused.

im not totally sold on the edges flaring out by the fenders. its small enough that they dont really distract you, but not large enough to appear to do anything. the real reason was so that i didnt have to cut the support on the drivers side fender. if i end up hating them the piece will just run straight across and ill modify the fender.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/IMG_1370-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/IMG_1367-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/04/IMG_1368-1.jpg

csouth

04-11-2012, 07:12 PM

I'm glad to see you're healthy and back on this. My brother became a member here just so he sould get email notices of your updates. Stay healthy and keep pushing.

41565 chevelle

04-12-2012, 04:57 AM

Tim,
I have been out of the fight too for a bit, not sick but busy as usual. I have been by a few times and you weren't out so I didn't bother to stop. I did fly over the other day and saw the nose poking out of the garage though. Bummed to hear you were sick and it explains no Tim sightings.

Let me know if you need anything, I too am back on my ride and hitting it pretty hard. Take care and hope to hear from you soon.
RJ

The WidowMaker

04-13-2012, 08:45 AM

My brother became a member here just so he sould get email notices of your updates.

thanks. im glad my build helps others out. without seeing builds and getting advice from guys on the forums i wouldnt be where im at. just glad to pass a little of what ive learned along.

I have been out of the fight too for a bit, not sick but busy as usual. I have been by a few times and you weren't out so I didn't bother to stop. I did fly over the other day and saw the nose poking out of the garage though. Bummed to hear you were sick and it explains no Tim sightings.

Let me know if you need anything, I too am back on my ride and hitting it pretty hard. Take care and hope to hear from you soon.

i think taking this long off the car has made the family realize how bad i really feel. its one thing to try and put on a happy face, but i had to give up the rest for a while. im glad to hear your back on yours as well. ive seen the chopper over head, just wasnt sure if you were still flying.

Protour_Pinto

04-13-2012, 08:52 AM

The WidowMaker

04-13-2012, 10:50 AM

I hope you feel better soon, Personally I find a lot of therapy in fiddling with cars and bikes. I loved living in HB a block off the beach, I hated getting harassed about the way my bike looked even though it was completely legal. The cops there are something else.

i agree. sitting around and dwelling on how i feel only makes it worse. working on the car is good rehab.

btw, i had a run in with a HB motor cop when i was 16. got my first speeding ticket for running it through first gear showing off for some high school cheerleaders on the corner doing a car wash. the guy wrote me up for doing 75 even thought the car wouldnt go that fast in 1st gear. but ive learned though my job that just like anything there are way more cool ones than bad ones. i was pulled over about 6 times after that in the chevelle and never got another ticket in HB, just told to calm it down a little.

Protour_Pinto

04-13-2012, 11:04 AM

i was pulled over about 6 times after that in the chevelle and never got another ticket in HB, just told to calm it down a little.

When I moved into the park the neighbor saw my bike and came over to tell me to be careful because the cops were always looking out for sportbikes. I have a naked Hayabusa with a lot of stuff changed but everything was legal right down to the factory reflectors, for the first 4 months I lived there I was pulled over a minimum of once a week, never was sited for anything and most of the time once I talked to the officer we were ok. My neighbor had a Harley with open pipes, no mirrors, minimum lighting and a fold away plate. He never had any problems, hell they wold give him a thumbs up when he wend down PCH or Beach Blvd.

I got tired of the constant harassment I moved. I later met one of the cops that was a problem for me and he didnt recognize me. He was on his West Coast Chopper built bike that was a rolling infraction, I questioned him about it and he was bragging they target "Rice Bikes and Cars".

I figured I wouldn't even try driving my car there even though it was a Pinto.