69 Camaro LS3 transplant

[Jon69RagTop]

;) Hi Guys
It's been a solid car for the last 7 years, enjoying many miles on various cruises and Power Tours. The 383 stroker and Tremec 5-speed performed well, but I've had the LS bug for years now. Drivability, horsepower, reliability, gas mileage, etc., plus the fact I wanted Air Conditioning for the cruise home. Power Tours are great, but as some point you just want cool air and quiet surroundings. The time has come.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/Poster1-1.jpg
2009 Power Tour with daughter, priceless.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/09PowerTour075_edited1-1.jpg
Stroker before the pull.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/Engine-1.jpg
Thanks to Craigs List, the 383 is going to a new home.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/Sep09005-1.jpg
I know, should have pulled front clip first, but I had to remove the motor quickly for the new buyer.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/LS3001-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/LS3004-1.jpg
Removed old heater core, and took steel "bolt-in-plate" from Vintage Air package and decided to cut and weld into place for smoothing the firewall. I know many folks hide the lines underneath the fender well, but I decided to go this route. Just going to keep in simpler and use all the hard lines from my Vintage Air kit as they were engineered to by used. First time ever welding so this was a learning experience for me. I can say afterwards I know more now.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/LS3006-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/LS3ab1-1.jpg
I'm much further along than the photos show, but will have to post more later. I hope you all enloy this as much as I've enjoyed reading all the posts from everyone elses builds. Feel free to ask any questions!

[Jon69RagTop]

My first time welding on sheet metal was a learning experience for sure. Made the mistake of buying .30 wire, and kept blowing small holes on the metal. Panel going in was a little thicker than factory sheet metal, so the holes ususally ended up on the factory skin. Switched to .24 wire and finished her up, and filled any pin holes inside and out with 3M sheet metal epoxy, the stuff they glue panels on with. My cousin owns a body shop so access to the guys at the shop and supplies sure comes in handy. Firewall is in primer now and the subframe is completed with POR 15 satin black.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/Camaro001-1.jpg
Notice the 10 year old Merrills!:lol:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/Camaro002-1.jpg
Next step was to throw together some DSE stands and move the car for first mock-up with engine and tranny going in.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/LS3ab11-1.jpg
For motor plates I went the route of Car Shop Adapter plates with 1" set-back and Energy Suspension Mounts. Hooker Headers and Competition Engineering Cross Member kit from summit for $50. I figured the money I save from making it myself helps pay for the new Hobart Welder.:woot:
Besides, welding, cutting, grinding and fabrication is 1/2 the fun.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/Camaro012-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/Camaro011-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/Camaro013-1.jpg
I'm having a blast on this project!!!!

[WS6]

Looks great and I'm glad you're having fun. I like the green paint. The first two pics made me think it was black. Green looks good on the 1st gens.

[Chevelle LT1]

Jon -

Are you running the Kwik pulley setup for the A/C? If so, what are your thoughts about it? I was debating the same setup for my car, but wasn't sure if in person the brackets had more of a function over form look to them.

Thanks,
~ Jason

[Jon69RagTop]

Jason

The bracket for the compressor works great. Very solid mounting system.

[1badchevelle]

Dam this is nice. Keep up the good work.

[67 ls1 vert]

Hey Jon, how close are the headers to the steering gear box?

[Jon69RagTop]

The headers are 3/8 from the steering box. I read this selection of adapter plates and motor mounts would allow this to drop right in, but wish to confess the frame had to be notched for clearance of the alternator. I only had to drop a small pocket in the frame about 1/4 lower since it wasn't hitting by much.

Now maybe I don't have a factory original GM alternator?, don't know for sure. Didn't feel like researching or shopping to solve the problem since my buddy recently purchased a Miller Plasma Cutter and I'm looking to weld anything in sight.:)

[DionM]

Great loking project. How did the crossmeber kit work out that you got from Summit? Do you remember the part # for it?
Thanks, Dion

[JEFFTATE]

That is soooooo nice !!
Thanks for the picks.
I gotta' do this one day..so your info helps..

Where did you get the LS3 ????? Craigslist ? Turnkey ? Ebay ??

[GM_muscle]

looks killer keep up the work.

[mc84_zz4]

Nice attention to detail, it is going to look brand new.
:cheers:

[Jon69RagTop]

The crossmember is #3601 Competition Engineering from Summit. Regarding the engine builder, Regal Performance in Texas.

First step to the crossmember installation was to relocate the emergency brake pull cable from inboard side of drivers side subframe to outboard side. Used a Lokar Universal emergency brake cable that originally was purchased for the Kore 3 C5 brakes, but now I rerouted for crossmember clearance. Worked out so nicely I realized it should have been done this way from the beginning.

Area cut from
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/LS3002-1.jpg
Outboard relocation
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/LS3003-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/ebrake002-1.jpg
Now for the crossmember. I welded some plates which extend from the frame up to just below the floor. My decision for this was for two reason, 1st being this put the crossmember high enough for a direct exhaust shot rearward from the headers. Should keep the pipes tucked up neatly to the bottom of the car.
2nd, having it up this high gave me access to drilling holes and using 1/2 bolts from the inboard size and while able to access the nuts on the backside of the plates. Should make future installations and removals easier leaving this main part as a bolt in. I'm very happy with how this turned out, especailly for the price.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/Camaro017-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/Camaro015-1.jpg

[LSXZ28]

Great job so far!! Keep us posted!

[SamHatco]

the angle of the engine and transmission. This isn't going to kick the rear of the tranny to high? Just courious? Build is going great. Your sure work fast.

Sam

[Jon69RagTop]

Actually I started the first of September, and my progress is a ahead of my posting so it looks like I'm kicking _ss. In reality I've spent quite a bit of time on this and my posts are catching up. :twothumbs

The engine sits at 4 degrees now, but I'm thinking once all the front end is on with the extra weight the angle should settle another degree to probably 3, which is perfect by what I've read. The rear end is gonna have to be adjusted though cause it's sitting at 0 degrees right now. That part can wait till the end.

I'll post a little more tomorrow with some pics.

[bonecrrusher]

This going to be on the Power Tour '10?

[rlplive]

My first time welding on sheet metal was a learning experience for sure. Made the mistake of buying .30 wire, and kept blowing small holes on the metal. Panel going in was a little thicker than factory sheet metal, so the holes ususally ended up on the factory skin. Switched to .24 wire and finished her up, and filled any pin holes inside and out with 3M sheet metal epoxy, the stuff they glue panels on with. My cousin owns a body shop so access to the guys at the shop and supplies sure comes in handy. Firewall is in primer now and the subframe is completed with POR 15 satin black.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/Camaro001-1.jpg
Notice the 10 year old Merrills!:lol:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/Camaro002-1.jpg
Next step was to throw together some DSE stands and move the car for first mock-up with engine and tranny going in.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/LS3ab11-1.jpg
For motor plates I went the route of Car Shop Adapter plates with 1" set-back and Energy Suspension Mounts. Hooker Headers and Competition Engineering Cross Member kit from summit for $50. I figured the money I save from making it myself helps pay for the new Hobart Welder.:woot:
Besides, welding, cutting, grinding and fabrication is 1/2 the fun.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/Camaro012-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/Camaro011-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/Camaro013-1.jpg
I'm having a blast on this project!!!!
Which Hobart are you getting. I just bought a 140 handler a few weeks ago. I love that little guy. I am just learing to weld and having an awesome time. Your car is looking awesome.

[Motown 454]

Nice job, it looks great. It should be a fun car to drive when your done.

[Jon69RagTop]

Hell YES this is going on Power Tour 2010. One of the reasons I took it off the road so early this Fall was to insure she'd be road-worthy early Spring. Regarding the Hobart, it's a 187.

For those of you who might not know, LS motors have an electronic output from the harness to pulse an electronic speedometer and tach. I wanted to keep the original dash though and try to make it look as original as possible. I'm very satisfied with the outcome.

First picture represents the removal of the bezels which hold the gauges in and house the blinkers/idiot lights. Stripped these down and used my dremel to carefully remove just the clear portion of the lens without cutting into the black portion. I also used the dremel to cut out the awkward shapes on the back side of the dash which mirrored the back side of my factory fuel gauge and speedo. I needed to create smooth places for new mounting plates.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/Camaro007-1.jpg
Backside
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/Camaro008-1.jpg
Once this was done, I took my gauges to a buddy with a machine shop and had him trace and duplicate the flat portion of each gauge from aluminum to create new mounting plates.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/Camaro009-1.jpg
Once these were painted flat black and I resprayed the bezels, walla!!!! I'm really happy with the stealth look.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/Camaro020-1.jpg

[rlplive]

I dig it.

[Motown 454]

Very Nice.

[Jon69RagTop]

The mock-up of motor and trans position clarified a few things, both requiring the use of my buddies new Miller Plasma Cutter. Can't remember the model number of the machine, but it's super small and can run on 110 or 220. That is one cool too and if I did this kind of stuff more regularly, I'd have one in my garage for sure.

The convertible has a brace in the floor which directly interferes with the the tail housing of the t-56. I probably could have cut less out, but figured if I ever wished to service the shifter location or upgrade, cutting and notching would be more appropriate. Here is a couple of photos showing the work taking place and the final box-in of the brace after removal of material.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/Camaro006-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/firewall006-1.jpg

The next item which had to be addressed was a small notch in the frame where the alternator was coming into contact. Initial mock-up revealed a slight bit of contact between the alternator housing and crossmember, where maybe some grinding and cutting of the housing would have eliminated the problem. But that darn plasma cutter though, just sitting there looking at me- I knew what I had to do.

I cut a square pocket from the frame, and then proceeded to find a nice piece of curved steel to weld back into it's place. Once this area is painted (see last picture of completed firewall), you can hardly notice the alteration.
Couldn't resist the a few photos my wife took of me in action. Sorry....
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/firewall003-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/firewall001-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/firewall004-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/firewall005-1.jpg
Once the frame was finished and repainted, moved on to finishing up the firewall. Added seam sealer, cut the hole for the wiring harness, and wet sanded. As mentioned before, I will be using the round plate with four holes fwhich comes with the kit to finish off this spot of the firewall. Hope you like!!!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/firewall008-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/firewall010-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/12/firewall011-1.jpg

[67 ls1 vert]

I'm not sure why you have to cut up your car for the trans to fit? My magnum 6 speed fit with out any issues. Lots of people install 6 spd's in their camaros with out any problems? What body bushings are you using? I just re read your post and you said that you are using car shop plates. maybe thats the reason???

Eather way, cool project. Keep kickin!!

[Jon69RagTop]

This main reason for modifying the tunnel brace relates to the fact I bought a turn key package of LS3 and T-56, and the T-56 is the f-body generation. My research, unfortunatly after the fact, I came to the realization that the shifter is located much further back on F-body T-56's versus the aftermarket styles from Keisler or Hurst Driveline.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/tremec_t56_magnum_select-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/Sep09009-1.jpg

I used the car shop 1" set-back plates, and even reduced the set-back by 1/4" by re-drilling the plates. I didn't redrill just to avoid the tunnel modification, but was trying to eliminate the need for notching the frame as well. Didn't work obviously cause I had to notch the frame ever so slightly. Probably could have raised the motor a little bit, but that makes getting the driveline angles more difficult with a factory tunnel and the height of a T-56.

Another item I ended up having to re-address was the steering box hitting the Hooker Headers. Attempting to drop in the motor in for the last time I came to realize the headers were making too much contact. Contacted Frank and he set me up with DSE's 600 box. This netted me a little more room, but I had to dimple the headers still, but only a slight amount. Frank gave me a quick tip of using a large socket and felt pad between, then struck with hammer on the socket to create a clean dimple. Worked out great, and a big "Thanks" to Frank for the idea.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/firewall017-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/Jan006-1.jpg

[seekins]

That green is very nice. What color is it?

I used one of those miller plasma cutters quite a bit and dont know what i would do without one!!

Is there a shifter relocation kit a guy can buy? I havnt dropped my motor in yet, both LS and T56 are from a 04 Gto and the shifter is way back.

[Jon69RagTop]

Thanks for the comment. The color is 1969 GM Forest Green.

[Jon69RagTop]

Watching a little playoff football so I decided to multi-task and throw an update together. Worked on clutch assembly to accomodate a factory f-body clutch master cylinder. First reason is this its about the cheapest method compared to others for a hydraulic assembly, but also for ease of replacement when many miles from home. A buddy of mine a few years ago on the Power Tour lost his master cylinder and had to replace his. With that being said I want to make a "swap out" as easy as possilbe without having to shorten a pushrod while on the road.

Used some paper and tape to mock-up the angle for the pushrod mounting bracket while in the car, then proceeded to remove and weld while on the bench. Once assembled and back into the car, the actuation is perfect, with the pushrod remaining directly centerd to the piston during the entire stroke.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/LS3012-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/LS3016-1.jpg
Next project was to finish up the wiring connections to LS prior to reassembly of front clip. Harness is completly attached now, fuel line in place and new tank hung.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/LS3011-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/LS3010-1.jpg
The inner fenders and back side of core support needed some work, holes welded up etc. I did not wish to completely dis-assemble the clip, so I unbolted the inner fenders from the outers and pryed them down a bit to get coverage up under the outers. Worked great and I bet no-one could tell they were painted while on the car. I'm very particular, so it had to look good or I'd disassemble.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/LS302019-1.jpg

[Smock67]

Great progress so far. Looks like your close to finishing the install. Are there any more planned details?

[Jon69RagTop]

I like this first shot of the two halves about to come together.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/LS3027-1.jpg
The satin black I sprayed on the inner fenders and core support.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/LS3028-1.jpg
Getting the front back on is a little of a milestone for me, a light at the end of the tunnel for sure.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/LS3037-1.jpg
Now for the buzz kill, and would sure welcome some opinions as well. After filling the motor with oil a few weeks back, a couple of times I have wiped some drops which were hanging from the bottom pan. I surely haven not come this far to have a freakin oil leak, so I'm a bit bummed. Leaking with out running? Doesn't make sense to me. There are two bolts on the backside of each corner of the pan, and they appear after a few days to have a droplet hanging from them. ARRGGHHH? Anyone else experienced any problems with this? It's a brand new gasket, autokraft oil pan, and the bolts appear to be tight. It only happens when I take the car down off the DSE stands, dropping the rear of the car first, which in theory tilts the motor back. It's only after this procedure I ever notice the oil, so I guess it's a problem at the rear of the pan?
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/LS3029-1.jpg
I'm not sure what to do next, so I welcome any input or ideas.

[jtm311]

Your car looks sweet, regarding the oil leak, there are a number of threads on the net with LS3 leaks from the oil pan and rear main seal. If you search the vette forums they also have this problem.

John

[Jon69RagTop]

First of all, "Thanks" to Greg for the suggestion on rectifying the oil leak. I did not go the route of replacing the bolts with studs, but did take your advice regarding removal the two rear bolts near the area of seapage, one at a time. Cleaned thoroughly with q-tips and smeared ARP thread sealer on each bolts and torqed back down to specs. Acutally a little thread sealer proceeded to ooze our exactly where the oil was weaping, no more oil leak. :)
Another item which was really bugging me was the radiator core support and the visual "stamping wrinkles" present from day one, along with a couple stamped factory holes in the top of the core. I definitly should have taken care of this earlier, but no time better than the present to get'er right.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/camaroJan233-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/camaroJan234-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/camaroJan236-1.jpg
Welded a couple washers in the holes and filled the rest with weld. Ground down the balance and used a skim coat of filler to smooth out the balance of wrinkles. Resprayed the core support, taped off the motor side portion and shot the front side by removing the grill. Turned out really nice and very satisfied now with the appearance.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/Jan001-1.jpg
The past weekend I tackled the exhaust. I reused the Dr. Gas X-pipe from previous exhaust, but had to modify the front 45 degree bend on one side to to match the spread of current headers. Did I mention laying on your back under a car re-doing exhaust kinda sucks. I really pleased though how the modifications worked out. If it wasn't for the opprotunity to play with more tools, I'd probably have jobbed this out.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/Exhaust003-1.jpg
After the transmission area and outlet of the x-pipe, I wanted to get the exhaust piping closer to the floor boards, so I ordered a "u-bend" and messed around with the some paper templates. First I traced the bend on some poster board and used them for practice to determine exaclty where I should cut. Keep in mind guys I've never even welded prior to this project, so I might be proud here of some pretty trivial stuff compared to what you all can fabricate.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/Exhaust001-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/Exhaust002-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/Exhaust004-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/Exhaust005-1.jpg
After having every joint "tacked" for routing purposes, I proceeded to remove the entire exhaust system. The planned "ball and socket" joints right before the mufflers made this easy an easy removal, took less than 10 minutes.
Placed pipes on work table and finished all the welding, added O-2 bungs and painted with VHT "Flat Aluminum" for protection from rust. I'm very happy with the end result.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/Exhaust006-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/Exhaust007-1.jpg
I'm probably going to attempt to reuse the tail pipes which I cut from the old system, but if this is too big of a pain in the ***, I'll probably drive it like this it's under power and head over to an exhaust shop. Who know, one weeke removed from this past weekend and I'll probably be motivated to finish it myself, back under the car we go.:lol:
Here's the engine bay after a little more work.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/02/Jan009-1.jpg

[Motown 454]

Nice work, and sweet project.

[78 Type-LT]

nice rebuild

[Bad Bird]

I love this project, can't wait to see more. I especially love that you kept (but modernised the workings of) the factory dash.

[ssx]

Awesome work!!!

[BA.]

nice work there man, this thread is a good read. :)

[CruizinKev]

looks good :twothumbs nice work!!

[bonecrrusher]

I've been following this thread for awhile.... and can't wait to see the car on the power tour!

[DYNODANNY]

It's really comming along, this shows we could do this in our garage and not have to pays big bucks to have some oue build its for us. Well goog luck and keep up the progress.

[Jon69RagTop]

Not sure how many of you have thought about or used the Spectra Tanks, but I ordered mine through Rock Auto. Anyway, as you can see by the photos, they indexed the fuel feed line and return line pointing at a 45 degree angle towards the rear of the car, that’s issue number one. Issue number two was plumbing, and since I’ve read so much about today’s fuels and how they break down rubber lines, I knew I should be using PTFE spec lines which have an inner Teflon core. This obviously necessitates the use of AN fittings now, and I’ve never worked with making my own lines before. This stuff from www.pegasautoracing.com (http://www.pegasautoracing.com/) is top notch. Very easy to work with in comparison to my first attempt, “Push Lok” from Summit. I could never recommend that product again, and Summit must have loved that return.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/LS3038-1.jpg
I bought 3 Swagelok fittings, two of SS-600-6-6An for the 3/8” feed lines, and one SS-500-6-6An for the 5/16’s return line at the tank. These are not cheap, but neither are gas leaks above hot exhaust. I did not want to get cheap on this part of the project, and ease of installation was very easy. Quick note if you ever try and source the SS-500 on-line, it won’t come up as a valid part number. Find a Swagelok dealer and call them, because they can get it. Plan for 5 days lead time.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/LS3039-1.jpg
My feed line from the engine bay was ordered through Tube Tech, and he offered to take care of the pluming needs for the rear of the car, Corvette filter and everything. Just didn’t believe after all I’ve read that Braided Stainless Lines consisting of hose not made of PTFE material would be a good long term solution. I’m quiet please with the results and chosen path for routing along inner rear frame rail.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/LS3041-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/LS3049-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/LS3050-1.jpg
The engine bay, air conditioning, radiator hoses, wiring, etc., all done. I completely rewired the charging system as well, and I can say with strong conviction this should be a very reliable system. Mark from MADD Electrical, www.madelectrical.com (http://www.madelectrical.com/) California is a great guy whom I’ve used in the past. We elected at this point in time to rewire the headlights too with relays, reduces the stress to the wiring and eliminates sending voltage all the way from the fuse panel. I’m excited to see the results of this.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/LS3051-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/LS3052-1.jpg
The ECM which came with this harness and engine (Regal Performance) is an odd looking duck, and there is no real quick way to mount this *******. I fabricated a bracket as seen below and mounted it upside down above the glove box. See pictures. This will require me to make a new inner glove box of course, but to me it seemed the best location. Harness had plenty length for routing to the passenger side of interior as well.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/LS3043-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/LS3044-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/LS3047-1.jpg
Need to finish up the balance of wiring in the interior compartment, dash/gauges etc. I’m getting very close to driving this puppy, hope to fire it up by the end of March. Keep your fingers crossed!!!

[1971CHEVELLE]

Awesome car :1st:

[bonecrrusher]

Cars looking good man!

[Motown 454]

Nice job it looks great.

[69Cam620]

Jon69RagTop,

Great idea for the speedo and tach swap. I am looking to do the same deal on my Camaro. What size gauges did you use?

I'm in Iraq right now but still buying parts online. I found a GPS speedometer from Speedhut, but its a 4 inch and was wondering if you could let me know if that would fit in the original dash with a similar setup to yours.

Thanks!

[Jon69RagTop]

Just wanted to start this answer off with a big "Thank You" for your service over in Iraq. Many of us truly appreciate the importance of what you are doing over there, BE SAFE.

Regarding the question about my gauges, they were 3 3/8". I believe 4" would be very tight, but if that's important to you I guess you could figure a way to make it work. A dremel becomes your best tool for grinding and cutting on the plastic.

PM me if you'd like me to cut out a 4" circle and lay it in the dash opening. I could snap a picture for you and email back out to you. Hell, thats a small effort compared to what you're doing for us.

Jonathan

[cdoggy81]

nice build!

[Jon69RagTop]

First let me address the question about gauge size. The gauges I installed were 3 3/8", and it looks like a 4" gauge would fit even more perfect. Oh, well live and learn, you all can learn form this if you try and improve on the idea.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/LS3056-1.jpg
4" circle for fitment test.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/LS3059-1.jpg
Dash Lights and gauge lights on. I like how this turned out.
sorry for the fuzzy picture
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/LS3061-1.jpg

And now for the drum roll, today the motor came to life. Man these LS3's are cool technology. Unfortuanatly the cold air intake routing is not complete so the microphone pics of more from this giant sucking sound of air that any exhaust note, but once this is buttoned up this huge air pump is gonna put some HP to the pavement. The Z06 cam sounds mild now, but can't wait to hear the roar when I take it for a spin. Since she started up now it's time to finish up the interior re-install.
Nothing like the nervous energy from a first time startup, and then she comes to life.:woot:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/th_LS3055-1.jpg (http://s590.photobucket.com/albums/ss348/Niezing66/?action=view&current=LS3055.flv)

[ratmotorred511]

Should be a great ride when your done:)

[icebird84]

Excellent

[bonecrrusher]

Man... I bet you look fwd to driving this car across country! Think everything will be done?

[Motown 454]

It sounds great.Oh what a feeling that has to be!

[69Cam620]

Ah yes the sound of success! Great build, she's a beaut!

Thanks for checking the 4" gauge fitment, that looks perfect :)

[4086D9]

Killer build man....love the ls3

[Jon69RagTop]

Yes, it will be ready the for the Power Tour. Hope to rack up a couple 100 test miles and a dyno tune before.

[blade69]

This is my first post so hello everyone. I have a 69 camaro that I just bought an ls3 out of 09 Vette. I am still confused about what you did with your tach/speedometer to keep them original looking. What type of gauges did you use? Were they aftermarket? I have a set of Autometer gauges that came with the standard Covans Classic package for a 69 camaro. I am trying to keep everything original looking so I bought the original bezel as well. ANY HELP would be greatly appreciated.

[mc84_zz4]

Ah! the first boom of the exhaust, priceless!
Congrats! :cheers:

[PHXSPEED]

beautiful car

[77thor]

Wow... I am impressed. Nice work.

[78 Type-LT]

sweet build

['70rs]

Looking very good!!

[markjanos]

I really like your car , someday I want to find a camaro and do the same thing. :hail:

[Jon69RagTop]

Appreciate the nice feedback. Mark, I'm rooting for you and your daughter on bull Run!!! Go get'em.

[Jon69RagTop]

Well, now I'm tweaking the little things on the interior side which have annnoyed me for some time. Re-worked the driver seat, moving it back 1.5 inches from the stock position. 6'2 doesn't work so well in the factory position.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/LS3007-1.jpg
The money shot for me, something about having it back together, so close to getting her done. :) (for now, guess they're really never done)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/LS3008-1.jpg
The bigger money shot. Finsihed the air intake with components from Spectre, 4" diameter. Rubber 90 degree boot from the intake, one straight piece and two 35 degree elbows put the air filter nicely in the driver side corner of the engine compartment. I'm really happy with how the routing worked out. I am considering getting the two 35 degree elbows welded together to reduce a set of clamps, and then painting the aluminum a matte black color.
Something about the black stealth look I just kind of like.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/LS3009-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/03/LS30101-1.jpg
Now onto the driving impressions. Super smooth on the highway, shifted into 6th gear around 65mph, hit 70mph and noticed the tack at 1600 rpm.:woot:
I must have nailed the driveline angles becasue theres not a vibrtion to be had anywhere, I'm so excited. Motor is 3 degrees down and rear end is exactly up 3 degrees, perfectly canceling each other out. Still taking it easy on the break in, but must confess I got on it around 30 mph and this sucker just flat hauls ass now. :1st:
I'll get another video made of the car running now with the hood back on and intake complete. The Z06 cam and dual Magna Flow exhaust sounds great IMO.

[SamHatco]

Awsome! Don't you just love the LS motors? It's amazing how fast they spin up. :twothumbs

Sam

[CruizinKev]

looking good!!!

[Motown 454]

The car is looking great. Glad to hear you enjoyed you first ride, and it drove well.It must feel like a different car.

[bonecrrusher]

Car is looking awesome!

[Jon69RagTop]

Decided to cost justify the welder a little more, ordered 3 more "U-bends" and fabricated the exhaust over the axle. Was able to re-use a little bit of the old tail pipe run as well, almost a necessity to fit the the tail pipe between outer body panel and leaf springs. Very pleased with how this all turned out.

A bonus as well, the exhaust drone was eliminated. Nice sounding exhaust now, very happy with the Magnaflows.

Refined horsepower with "raspy note" when you get on it.:twothumbs

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/Dyno001-1.jpg
First cut and weld of the "u-bend"

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/Dyno002-1.jpg
This is the same piece but opposite side, heading for the dump over the leaf spring.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/Dyno003-1.jpg
Final joint and placement of exit.

As promised, now onto the results. Drove the car from St. Louis to Indianapolis for Mike Norris to perform the final tune and Dyno. Overall the car was set-up fairly close, just a tickle lean. Mike completed his adjustments prior to the first pull, made a few more adjustments and competed two more pulls.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/Dyno007-1.jpg
Dyno shot. The cleanliness and organized shop says a lot about how Mike goes about his business. Highly recommended.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NfX5v4-WIBA (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NfX5v4-WIBA)

Not sure how else to post a video, so hit the link. Sorry!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/05/Dyno009-1.jpg
Final numbers.

We have a small hesitation to remove from cruising speed/ acceleration, otherwise very impressed with the results.

[CliffS]

Car looks awesome, great job!

[67 ls1 vert]

Good job Jon, I thought I would help you out and post up the direct link for you guys.

NfX5v4-WIBA

[Motown 454]

It sounds awesome. Nice number too.

[bonecrrusher]

F*ck.... jealous.....

The car sounds good, are you for sure hitting up the power tour?

I've got one last project to install this weekend, then looking < 30 days on going!

[DYNODANNY]

Nice job!

[Jon69RagTop]

Absolutely going on the Power Tour, but only 4 stops.

We'll be starting in Springfield, IL and finishing in Chatanooga, TN.

Be sure to look me up if you recognize the car at any site.

Jonathan

[senor_camaro]

build is coming along, super sick!

[130fe]

Jon, looks good! What cam are you running in that LS3? How is the idle/drivability?

[Jon69RagTop]

Super idle and driving characteristics.

this car has plenty of HP and TQ for my needs.

[Z 2 L8ter]

man that looks sick! great work

[Chevrolaine]

Sweet...Want!:yum:

[senor_camaro]

sweet ass camaro

[bonecrrusher]

Absolutely going on the Power Tour, but only 4 stops.

We'll be starting in Springfield, IL and finishing in Chatanooga, TN.

Be sure to look me up if you recognize the car at any site.

Jonathan

I'm long hauling it this year... I'll be at all the stops, but I plan on blowing off Bowling Green stop... I've got my Corvette assembly plant tickets already! I also plan on hitting the Corvette museum as well.

I'll make sure to look you up!

-Craig

[bonecrrusher]

Jon - the car looked great in DuQuoin! It was nice to meet you.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/06/DSC04546-1.jpg

My friend snapped a picture of me drooling at your ride, lol.

[greycamaro]

very nice ride and nice install.

[i1aroc]

Very nice build.

Just wondering where you picked up the LS3 and T56 turnkey package?

I am currently installing a speedtech suspension assembly and the last piece of the puzzle for my build is the engine/tranny combo.

Thanks

[Jon69RagTop]

Regal PERFORMANCE in Rowlett Texas

http://www.streetrodengines.com/

[67blacklist]

first class job Jon, your car looks great and you didn't just write a blank check for it. I'm not a real big fan of the corvette plastics but the ls looks right at home in there.

[randywyatt2000]

very nice 69 camaro