Lime Green 71OLDS 442 convertible

[71OLDS]

71 442 Convertible
Thanks to Brian Trick, Steve Dembowski, Smitty, and Frank & Terry Trimble for their work on this car over the years!!
468 (4.185 Bore, 4.25 stroke)
528 hp @ 5500/563 ft lbs @ 4300 - at the crank
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/10/UoLvfw8-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/10/MJtwF8s-1.png
Edelbrock heads - (older chamber design) milled to 69 CCs, ported 330/220 @ .600
Torker - port matched
custom dish diamond pistons (-20 cc dish)
7" Scat steel rods from Rocket Racing
Measured 11.1:1 CR (4.185/4.25/69ccEbrocks/20ccdish/zerodeck (pistons slightly out of the hole)/.038compfelpro)
Studs, Main straps, oil restrictors
Canton Racing 15-502 baffled 6 qt pan with 15-503 pick-up
Go EFI 8 Fitech – w/Aeromotive Phantom Stealth 340 in-tank electric pump & Aeromotive 13305 regulator
Crane Hyd roller 234/246 @ .050, 288/300 @ .006, 592/614 (1.65) 112 LSA
Hooker SC 1 7/8 Hders, 3" X-pipe, mufflers, exhaust and Olds trumpets
Be Cool Alum Radiator w/dual elect fans
Tremec Magnum 6 speed (2.66, 1.78,1.30,1.00, .8, .63)
McLeod – “street twin” clutch & SFI approved scattershield and hyd clutch
Chevy 12 bolt posi 4.10 gears - rear end fully upgraded by Brian Trick - axel tubes welded to the pumpkin, Moser Axels, TA Perf girdle cover
Rear Suspension: Hotchkis adj upprs, jegs lowers, CPP 2" drop springs 140 lb, UMI relocation brackets #4012 and UMI 1” chassis mount rear sway bar # 4047-xxx, QA1 single adjustable shocks on #4 setting for street
Front Suspension: QA1 Pro Coil Over system 500 lb w/single adjustable QA1 shocks on #4 setting for street, AFX spindles, SC&C adjustable tubular upper arms -aggressive street set up, Global West tubular lower control arms, Hotchkis 1.5” Hallow sway bar w/1" metal welded in for better fit, SC&C Chassis Brace
Hydroboost set up w/Baer 13” GT rotors for AFX spindles front, Baer 12” rotors rear, Hurst roll control
Lee 800 12.7:1 1275 psi to match hydroboost and steering pump
Factory AC w/upgraded lightweight compressor, new style condenser - R134 conversion
18x8 Olds SSIs (NewGen 500s) Front rims 5.25" BS - 255/45/18 Nitto 555
18x10 Olds SSIs (NewGen 500s) Rear rims 6" BS - 305/45/18 Nitto Drag Radials
Stereo: Sony MEX-GS610BT Bluetooth/IPOD/2 way voice w/mic above steering column, front speakers = high output Boston Acoustics Pro Series 5 1/4” split channel – replaced Custom Autosound speakers inside the kick panels, flush mounted 5 ¼”” Bouston Acoustic CRX57 2 way speakers in the rear. Kicker 12" sub Comp RT loaded enclosure (one passive) with a 500x5 watt JL Audio amp kit.

Slowly but surely moving along with the upgrades. Don't have everything in one thread so I'm starting one here:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/10/gbrZHuL-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/10/IAxPSJt-1.jpg

[71OLDS]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/10/ylldobY-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/10/ZCGWzuA-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/10/HEUNEgH-1.jpg

[71OLDS]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/10/WQCvpmy-1.jpg

[71OLDS]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/10/UQ6Cngh-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/10/Df0Bels-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/10/MqO7WGE-1.jpg

[The Stickman]

Looking great. Keep us updated.

[jackfrost]

i've been a big fan of this car for a long time. nice work Joe.

future plans?

[Tony_SS]

Reallynice!

[71OLDS]

Thanks Dave. Future plans are to get it back on the road. As you can see from the pics it's getting there but still a ways to go. Still need to finish the interior, brakes, front end alignment, test & tune, then paint & body. Added fiberglass fenders, front bumper, rear deck...lots of body panel line up and fresh paint to go. I'd like to get it back to the track by next summer...but that has been my goal for the last 2 summers. We'll see. I'll keep updating with pics here as it moves along.

-Joe

[71OLDS]

Not many updates but have some new pics:

glass fenders and new hood:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/hlAWcRX-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/kcunKJ6-1.jpg

left rear shot:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/OoUSAS8-1.jpg

another gauge pic:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/btcQquE-1.jpg

another engine pic:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/3A7xNlG-1.jpg

[jocko124]

Coming along nicely. It's good to see another Olds on here!

[tazzz25906112]

Not many updates but have some new pics:

glass fenders and new hood:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/DSCN0797-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/DSCN0771-1.jpg

left rear shot:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/DSCN0785-1.jpg

another gauge pic:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/DSCN0787-1.jpg

another engine pic:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/DSCN0775-1.jpg

Way cool build, can't wait to see it when it's finished....

[724tim]

looks good.:twothumbs

[The Stickman]

I am liking it more and more.

[71OLDS]

no progress but got a few more pics from different angles and views:

rear view of wing and new bumper (no bumper guards)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/sPvCYO9-1.jpg

full driver's side view...can see baer new baer brakes front and rear:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/OsyH0ni-1.jpg

drivers side of engine compartment:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/o7WMFz0-1.jpg

closer pic of new gauges:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/fN3Unvv-1.jpg

hood brakets/hinges installed....stock screen will be added later...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/RKMc7ig-1.jpg

close up of Nitto 305/45/18 drag radials and new 12" rotors:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/LxW0RiI-1.jpg

[ent72olds]

Love the car...beautiful color combo!

[70ssracer]

should have not posted that pic of the trans tunnel with that nasty looking hump for a shifter. Other than that I like it

[tazzz25906112]

I'm just willing to bet we all have one spot on the car we'd really like to have done a little better,,,,, That said, the car is really super otherwise right.

Lets celebrate the good stuff guys... Great build and I look forward to seeing videos of you driving it this coming summer hopefully...

[BA.]

Something about that color, the white top and the ram-air hood with decklid spoiler is just RIGHT. Man I'd cruise that thing all night!

[Munster]

Nice...

[71OLDS]

Thanks for all the kind words!

as far as:
should have not posted that pic of the trans tunnel with that nasty looking hump for a shifter. Other than that I like it

...this was an original M20 4 speed car. The tunnel and the hump had very little modification needed to upgrade to the Richmond 5 speed. Here's what it looked like in 1997 (date of first restoration) when the stock M20 came out:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/dhVRsDB-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/01/EaSL8rI-1.jpg

...I guess it's not too pretty in either situation but it's not far from how it was originally even with the 5 speed in there. Also it will be covered by the boot and then the original 4 speed console. ...so no reason not to post a progress pic..in my opinion of course...but to each his own...

-Joe

[Rallye455]

What do those rear tires measure height and width?

[71OLDS]

ARTTIIs 18x10 rims (5.5” BS)
w/Nitto 555r 305/45/18s drag radials=12.02”section width, 28.78”diam

[724tim]

looking good !

[Alain V.]

wow, great looking olds.
I am new here and am working on a 72 W30/pro touring clone & have questions about your fiberglass fenders. I have been thinking of going to fiberglass front fenders and bumpers myself to save some weight.

Are you happy with the fit/quality of yours?
Can you tell me-us more about them?
Thanks
Alain V.
Topeka, Kansas

[ArtosDracon]

73 Cutlass supreme owner here, glad to see some BOP action on this board!

[71OLDS]

wow, great looking olds.
I am new here and am working on a 72 W30/pro touring clone & have questions about your fiberglass fenders. I have been thinking of going to fiberglass front fenders and bumpers myself to save some weight.

Are you happy with the fit/quality of yours?
Can you tell me-us more about them?


Thanks. Long story on the glass parts. Car started off at 4300 lbs (with me in it) and part of the many new projects is to try to lose 350lbs. Alum heads, intake, AC compressor plus new all glass (repro -no steel) ram air hood, glass fenders, glass front bumper, glass rear decklid, lots of cutting on core support, etc should get me close.

The glass fenders and front bumper came from Showcars unlimited. The bottom line with most glass products is they will take a while to get them (months) and they will never fit quite right. Gaps and spacing on all sides is going to take lots of works to make it look close but it will be very difficult to get it to look as good as the factory steel. That said if you get it right or even pretty close it will never rust and it will save you some weight. Also plan on never getting in a fender bender or all that hard work is going to be history. So your call. Weight savings may be less than you think. Bumper is 20 lbs lighter than steel and fenders are 16 each. Rear decklid is 26 lbs lighter but the weight savings up front is more valuable in my opinion. Still don't have mine out on the road yet and there's lots of body work and spacing/gapping to go with these glass parts. We'll see how it ends up. At 4300 I was trying to do anything and everything to lighten the car without sacrificing some of the heavier "necessities" like big rims and tires, sound deadener, all my stereo equipment, AC etc etc. AC parts are around 100 lbs for example so you can drop a bunch of weight if you're willing to pass on AC...then maybe it's not worth the 32 lbs savings of the glass fenders. The same could be said for the subwoofers and amps...

[Alain V.]

Thanks for the reply.
I too am trying to keep the weight "in check" yet keep the car looking "stock"

I'm planning on alum- heads,intake,wp, rad, and sanden a/c compressor along with alum brackets for accessories. Will also be using a hawker oddessy battery.

My car already has a factory original W30 hood (steel& glass combo), that is a little rough. I has some cracks in the rear corner like if it "opened" up on someone while driving.

I might just fix the original hood and hang it on the wall, so I have it, if I ever want to do a full on resto,,,,,
and get a lightweight W30 replica all glass hood to save weight.

My main plan for fiberglass is to use glass front and rear bumpers (painted in the body color -flame orange).
Should help get some weight off the nose.

[twosaturns]

Weight savings may be less than you think. Bumper is 20 lbs lighter than steel and fenders are 16 each. Rear decklid is 26 lbs lighter but the weight savings up front is more valuable in my opinion. Still don't have mine out on the road yet and there's lots of body work and spacing/gapping to go with these glass parts. We'll see how it ends up. At 4300 I was trying to do anything and everything to lighten the car without sacrificing some of the heavier "necessities" like big rims and tires, sound deadener, all my stereo equipment, AC etc etc. AC parts are around 100 lbs for example so you can drop a bunch of weight if you're willing to pass on AC...then maybe it's not worth the 32 lbs savings of the glass fenders. The same could be said for the subwoofers and amps...
IMO, fiberglass parts are there for the 'hey, cool' factor, cause that doesn't seem like a worthwile weight savings, but every little bit counts, esp if you 'need' the stereo (A/C is WAY important to me, I would lose a stereo before going w/o!)
really like your 442, the stock look under the hood is great!

[68firebird]

sweeeeeeeet!

[72Cutty]

Looks good my man. I was working on setting up the dash in my Cutlass for new gauges and I like what you did with yours. Makes me want to get back in the garage. Keep working at it.

[71OLDS]

Thanks everyone. Hoping to have some more progress soon. We'll see how things go.

-Joe

[71OLDS]

I might just fix the original hood and hang it on the wall, so I have it, if I ever want to do a full on resto,,,,,
and get a lightweight W30 replica all glass hood to save weight.


forgot to comment on this. I actually had a factory ram air hood on mine before I got the glasstek (all glass - no steel frame) hood. I got a new one because my original was separating (glass from steel) on one side and started to bow. I THOUGHT the all glass would be much lighter. Trusty bathroom scale only showed 13 lbs difference!! Now I posted this a while back on ROP (Realoldspower) and several Olds guys said I was way off but I weighed them both and that's what I got....so in my opinion (per my scale) stick with the stock hood or get a Thorton with the steel. Maybe glasstek glass hoods are heavier than some of the others out there but it doesn't seem worth it for that small difference.

-Joe

[compos mentis]

Very cool Joe.

I'd be interested in how many were built equipped like your car.

Can't be many obviously.

[71OLDS]

Very cool Joe.

I'd be interested in how many were built equipped like your car.

Can't be many obviously.

Thanks skip. Here are the #s:

1,304 442 convertibles in 1971 (only 110 of those were W-30)

Mine is NOT a W-30 but it was an orignal 4 speed car (M-20 trans, non-ram-air AC car, with 3.23 rear)

Out of the 1,304 442 convertibles in 71 only 183 were 4 speeds. So there you go..1 of 183. Still has original block but lots of changes from there. Goal was "mostly stock appearance" with as much performance as possible.

[1971CHEVELLE]

looking good !

[71OLDS]

Been a while but I have a few new pics. Lots of work on the glass body panels and hood trying to get them aligned properly. Can actually open both doors now (without moving the fender out of the way) and the hood is getting closer. Also the glass front bumper is on. The plan is to chrome the front bumper so it looks more stock (vs. painting it) but it has been a challange to find someone that will chrome a glass bumper. We'll see. It would be much easier just to paint it body color or paint it with chrome "appearing" paint but I'm hoping we will find a way to get it done with real chrome.

pic of the hood from above:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/VwGaP0h-1.jpg

close up of the passenger side fender and door. Not perfect but so much better than it was:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/khLrjWw-1.jpg

close up of the front view including the bumper. Sorry this is VERY blurry...camara phone :(

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/dFDNjnw-1.jpg

[jocko124]

Looking good!

[Zanie]

Cool Build!
I never get tired of looking at A-Body convertibles!

[boltons87]

Thats a mean looking car man.

[71OLDS]

New light weight/high performance low drag AC compressor installed as well as the cruise control pieces. The rear AC bracket was not needed anymore because the compressor was so much lighter than stock (about 20 lbs lighter). Leaving the bracket off saved a few more lbs. I'll take whatever I can get. Here's a few more pics. As always sorry for the blurry ones:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/0DodIAy-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/TF2bqq2-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/r2WqzJI-1.jpg

[71OLDS]

I've had a few ask me about the details on the compressor. here you go:

Old Air Products - The Pro6TEN Compressor is a 10 Cylinder "bolt-in" direct replacement for the GM Frigidaire/Harrison A-6 Compressor. This new design is specifically engineered to fit original A-6 mounting brackets and A/C hose assemblies. This highly efficient compressor offers a smoother, quieter operation, creating less vibration and engine drag, increased fuel mileage, improved engine and cooling system performance. The aluminum body of the Pro6TEN is 52% lighter than the original A-6 (significantly reducing shipping costs). Designed to accept both Superheat and high pressure safety switches, one single groove part # replaces 90% of all applications (also available with a double groove clutch). Fits 1962 & up GM vehicles, many Ford-Lincoln-Mercury, Audi, Jaguar, Mercedes Benz, Rolls Royce, Volvo, various heavy duty trucks and other applications with the A-6 Compressor. For more information visit our website at www.oldairproducts.com (http://www.oldairproducts.com/) or Phone Number: 817-531-2665

[Classic442]

Hey Joe,
Did you have to use the AC rear bracket to stabilize that compressor. I am using a similar set-up using brackets from a 76 Olds Cutlass instead of the 71 brackets. I am having a few issues with the HS rockers, stock valve covers, factory rear bracket, and the Performer intake bolt holes.

[71OLDS]

Hey Joe,
Did you have to use the AC rear bracket to stabilize that compressor. I am using a similar set-up using brackets from a 76 Olds Cutlass instead of the 71 brackets. I am having a few issues with the HS rockers, stock valve covers, factory rear bracket, and the Performer intake bolt holes.


Hi Lance,

Because the compressor is so much ligher the rear bracket was not needed to stablize it. If you are using the factory compressor I'm pretty sure you will have to use the rear bracket. Also the pulley's didn't line up properly for the AC belt. Lots of custom work here. Also my valve covers are factory appearing tall valve covers so the AC box had to be modified for it all to fit. The project was started with the tall sheet metal valve covers until the more factory appearing ones were found. They are about the same height:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/oZlc2mC-1.jpg


The entire AC "box" had to be removed and reshaped (with Fiberglass) to make room for the taller valve covers:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/d2uZLW7-1.jpg

finished product:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/10/mhUDmpW-1.jpg

I'm not sure on the bolt holes for the performer (I have the Torker) but it would be safe to assume it would be more custom work unfortunately because nothing seems to line up or be easy once you go away from stock.

-Joe

[WS6]

Looks good and I love that color on those cars. Are you planning to keep it that color or change it?

[tazzz25906112]

That car is just plain stunning,,, nice job my friend.

[Mingus]

Car is looking great. Looking forward to seeing it painted.

[71OLDS]

Are you planning to keep it that color or change it?


Thanks guys. The car will ALWAYS be its original color = GM Paint code 43 - Lime green

[Classic442]

I am using a Nostalgic Air aftermarket kit. With the '76 brackets the AC belt is the last one on. During mock up it aligned pretty well. The compressor is exactly like yours in this kit. My car was heat only so I do not have to worry there. I will mock up the '71 bracket to see how it aligns with the '76 parts. My HS rockers may fit under the factory valve covers with some oil baffle mods. MTF

[oestek]

ARTTIIs 18x10 rims (5.5” BS)
w/Nitto 555r 305/45/18s drag radials=12.02”section width, 28.78”diam

They look killer. What is the size and BS for the fronts?

[71OLDS]

They look killer. What is the size and BS for the fronts?

Sorry Kevin. Missed your post from a while ago. Here's the info on the fronts:

18x8 rims (4.5” BS) w/Nitto 555 255/45/18s 10”sw – 26.97”d - But this was BEFORE the B-body spindles and the new glass fenders were installed. Now these "stick out" too far and do not fit (rests against the fender right now). Would have to go with maybe with a 5" or 5.25" BS to push everything in a little.

I will be selling these Rims and tires (all 4 ) in the near future (upgrading to 20s with adjusted BS #s to fit properly) but they may already be spoken for. Let me know if you are interested (or anyone else) and I can confirm one way or the other.

[71OLDS]

Been a while since I've had any updates. Here are some pics on the NewGen500s mounted. Dont have correct Olds caps yet and just did a quick one coat job on the painted on RWL. Not sure I like the look of the Nitto RWL but I do like the Nitto tires. May switch to Goodyear Eagle GTs in similar sizes for a better look:

Sizes are 18x8 255/45/18
18x10 305/45/18

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/xBdabcS-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/KNPXxbY-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/yFoZbOx-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/11/1s1Fqav-1.jpg

[LeighP]

Very nice....really like those New Gen 500s.

[CruizinKev]

^^ what he said! :twothumbs wheels look great on there!

[csouth]

Looking good! How does that trans hold up behing the 455?

[71OLDS]

Thanks guys!


Looking good! How does that trans hold up behing the 455?

CSOUTH,

I can't answer that question yet. My previous motor with this trans was the stock low compression motor. No where near where it is now. Hoping to have the car back and on the road by March. I will be running it hard at that time. If the trans goes I will probably upgrade to the The G-Force GF-5R 5-Speed using the same gears but hoping it will last for a while. We'll see. The Road Race 5 speed is supposed to be a little stronger than the original Richmond 5 speed.

-Joe

[442-Dude]

Great car Joe, and nice work. I'm sure you cannot wait to get on the road.

I'm interested in your gauge cluster(s), including the sub-cluster. Obviously very customized from stock, yet you managed to preserve the "sumulated wood grain" that is so familiar. If possible, please reveal anthing you can about this customization you've done - looks great. Not having bought a 'tic-toc-tach' back in the affordable days, I'm interested in any aftermarket options.

Also, a question you may not yet be able to answer - how do you like the dual-diaphragm booster? Any issues? With similar engine work in my '71, I was only able to go with a 7" booster, but single diaphragm. I'm finding my braking behavior to be sub-par.

Thanks,
Mike

53783

[bhcustomdesigns]

Car looks great, love those wheels!!!!!

[71OLDS]

Thanks guys.

Mike, you are right, I can't wait to get the car back and get it on the road. Luckily I have a 70 Cutlass Supreme I picked up about a year ago that's been keeping me busy while it's been gone. For the gauges I just got a piece of card board and cut it to fit where the stock gauges go. I drove around and tried to find the best place to see the tach (with the sport wheel) and kind of built everything around that. The 3 round stock gauges are not placed well to be able to see with the sport steering wheel. I don't like the big tach on the column or dash....so the only spot that worked was just off center to the right, the the speedo off center to the left, then find a way to fit as many other gauges on there and look good. I also wanted to make sure the 5500 to 6000 RPMs on the tach were on the inside middle. Again because that's where I'll be shifting and I don't want it blocked by the wheel. I kept changing things around with that piece of card board until I came up with the stencil. Then I bought all the gauges I liked that fit in the stencil. Mounted them in the card board and sent them off to this guy:

http://www.custominstrumentpanels.com/

...with a sample of from 71 woodgrain and he matched it up as close as he could. Sent back the finished product all ready to be mounted. I think he charged me about $180 including shipping it back.

Brakes are kind of a long story. Bottom line is the 9" Dual diaphram booster didn't work. Went back to Baer about 3 or 4 years after I bought it from them and they said they never sold that type of booster. I couldn't find the reciept so I was SOL. Not running a booster at all now. May end up going with a hydroboost set up or something once I get the car back. Not adding any new projects for now. Just trying to get all unfinished projects done and get the car back in my driveway.

-Joe

[SparkyRnD]

awesome build, and would love to see it on the road as well. Later this year we should have an Oldsmobile PT gathering as there seem to be a good group of us building Cutlass-es at the moment!

[BCHALK22]

Digging the wheel and tire combo

[deejai35]

I love the gauges and the wheel/tire combo. Nice choices and overall car build.

[454bug]

I love the color!

Great project! :1st:

[71OLDS]

Thanks everyone! Here are the new custom Olds rocket (SSI) caps that will be replacing the flat NewGen caps. This should give the wheels a little more of the stock look.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/01/ddEzJIS-1.jpg?1

[71OLDS]

Olds Rocket caps are installed. Below are some pics. Sorry the tires are so dirty and the painted on white letters are already fading a little. I'll repost more pics when I get the car back and have time to get everything looking right. Probably going to sand the sidewalls clean and stencil on RWL more centered on the tires. Will probably be going with "BFGoodrich Radial TA" on all 4 tires since I can get the stencil right off the tires on my 70 Supreme (similar height 15" tires so the size of the letter should be about right too).

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/5DrCGbd-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/mV880LH-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/aXMXOJJ-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/02/QKBXBSz-1.jpg

[Zanie]

Those caps look excellent!

[gator1505]

that's bad a$$ lookin man and I love that color. I think it may be the original color on my 72

[71OLDS]

Been a while with no updates. Got a few more. Interior is back together. Original console back in with original Strato buckets. Shifter handle was swapped to get console to fit better on top of the Richmond 5 speed. The console has always been a little off center and the longer shifter handle hit on the console if it was centered. Now everything has been modified so it's as it should be. I like the shorter shifter handle better. Here are some pics:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/TVSYYcY-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/zpn5Gof-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/NX0GTfL-1.jpg

stock screen was added to the glasstech repro hood. Still needs to be hit with some flat black to make it look right:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/8pUi5xT-1.jpg

[xplane]

Looks fantastic Joe!

Getting some great ideas for my 72' 442 project. My plan is very similar to yours, maybe a little less radical drivetrain.

Any advise on what you might have done different on your car so far?

Thanks,

Mike

[71OLDS]

Looks like Goodyear finally came out with the Eagle F1 Asymmetric 2s in a 255/45/18 that was previously only available in the UK. Will be going with these new tires in the front and the 295/45/18 Eagle F1 GS in the rear. Will paint the white letters over the "Goodyear" and "Eagle F1" both front and rear. I think it will look much better than the Nitto letters painted.

Motor is out of the car right now so it may be end of the year before I get to this but was happy I have this as an option now instead of having to shave the sidewalls of the Nitto tires and creating a template etc. Was going to try it but seem like lots of work. May still try doing this for a new set of drag radials some day but now I can just do the rears and will go with Goodyear not BF Goodrich so they match the fronts.

Really hoping this will improve on the look of the white letters. Will post pics when it's done.

[71OLDS]

Looks fantastic Joe!

Getting some great ideas for my 72' 442 project. My plan is very similar to yours, maybe a little less radical drivetrain.

Any advise on what you might have done different on your car so far?

Thanks,

Mike

Mike,

Sorry I missed this post. Still haven't had the car on the road yet so hard to throw out things I would have done different. About the only thing I can think of so far is the location of the rear speakers already mentioned in one of the earlier posts on this thread. It would have been great to have everything done sooner but it takes as long as it takes. If I ever this car back on the road ask me again after 6 months of hard driving and I may have more for you on this.

-Joe

[thall442]

Where can I get a set of these wheels?

[csouth]

Where can I get a set of these wheels?

Not sure if they still offer that style, but they are New Gen's

http://newgenwheels.com/

[ctosiflying]

Who did the center caps? I have a set of the same wheels with bigger windows that I picked up from Intro. These caps would be perfect for my combo. Please let me know.

[Shradezz70S]

What is your front and rear back spacing on those rims

[Olds71]

Hello, I'm new here I have a 71 cutlass and really like your setup. Looks sweet
I was wondering what kind of suspension you have on it? Is it stock height or lowered at all? Thanks
Joey

[71OLDS]

It's been several years that my car has been away getting work done but it's finally back home. I drove it from Louisville, OH all the back to Virginia Beach last weekend. I would like to thank Brian Trick, Steve Dembowski, and Smitty (most Olds guys will recognize some or all of these names) for all their help and work over the years.

Below are a few pics from my trip back. I know it's not real pretty right now but I will make sure it's back to looking good soon. I have a huge clutch issue and lots of electrical problems to work out but once it's rolling the car runs amazing and corners like it's on rails. Very happy with all the upgrades and power. All the details about the car including the answers to the questions asked above are back on page one (sorry I haven't logged in here for a while). Will be back to updating regularly going forward.

Some pics from a rest stop on the way home:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/10/8K5ZhMa-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/10/A5bNG7g-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/10/xMP8jzh-1.jpg
stopped at my parents house in Northern VA a little past half way:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/10/cURWG3m-1.jpg
motor pic:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/10/S9KeAGl-1.jpg
interior pic:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/10/vlLGLfI-1.jpg

[oestek]

The car looks great. Do you have any details on your under-dash gauge cluster? It's about the first one I've seen that I like!

[71OLDS]

The car looks great. Do you have any details on your under-dash gauge cluster? It's about the first one I've seen that I like!

There's a guy who makes a replica of the 8 track shell for the 70 -72 Cutlass/442s. You just tell him what size holes you want and which year wood grain. Very reasonably priced too. I haven't seen one of his ads in a while. Hopefully he's still doing it and around. I'll try to dig out his contact info for you.

UPDATE - found his email - here you go: [email protected]

his name is Randy - just tell him you want to get pricing/info/details on his 8 tracks housing for gauges. He can also make one for a stereo. He has lots of pics of his work

[oestek]

Thanks for the info.

BTW, if you're going to paint another name on the tires, consider these...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/10/DSCN2180-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/10/120518_0558a-1.jpg

[71OLDS]

Kevin,

Actually my plan is similar to that. I want a more old school/original look and unfortunately as much as I love the Nitto tires it just doesn't give that muscle car/stock raised white letter look. That said I'm not going to go as far as the original bias ply tire but rather a more middle of the road RWL look. I love the BF Goodrich Radial TA RWL look on 15" tires and also the Goodyear Eagles. I actually used to run 15" BFGs on the front with BFG drag radials on the rear with the RWL painted on a set of 275/60/15s.

So my plan in the near future is to switch the fronts out to the same size tire 255/45/18 but the Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 2s. Check out how PERFECT these will look with the letters painted white:

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/BigPic.jsp?sidewall=Blackwall&tireMake=Goodyear&tireModel=Eagle+F1+Asymmetric+2&partnum=545YR8F1A2XL&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes&

Nice big letters perfectly centered on the tire just like old school.

There is no replacement for my setup for the Nitto 305 45 18s drag radials. So those will be staying but I will sand the sidewalls smooth, then either stencil and paint the matching Goodyear Eagle F1 on them or maybe try some of these new sticker kits available (treadwear).

Not a real high priority on my to do list right now but will eventually be done. Will post pics when I do.

-Joe

[71OLDS]

Kevin,

Actually after seeing this I may just sand smooth both Nittos front and back and order the Treadwear glue on letters. I'm really impressed with how they look:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/10/PNByEi2-1.jpg

Plus my sidewalls are bigger (both 45 series) so I think with slightly bigger letters (but this exact setup/design) mine will look even better. To NEVER have to paint on white letters again would be pretty cool!

-Joe

[71OLDS]

Got the raised white letters done on the passenger side. Went with the BFG letters since I had a BFG tire to use as a model. Bought the letters from Treadwear. Sanded the Nitto lettering off and glued these on one by one.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/10/D0oGWIb-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/10/mlQRsdi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/10/AwZDMLw-1.jpg

[71OLDS]

Finally got some videos up on Youtube.

walk around of car idling in my driveway:
71 Olds 442 Walk around - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tu63kprotmA)

This one is disappointing on video. This is me shifting at 5500 in first and 2nd. So loud and aggressive in the car and throws me back in the seat - comes across as nothing in this video. Will need to try something else but it's a start:
5500 RPM shifts - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uVKJetMoIlY)

[71OLDS]

uhhh blown head gasket - won't be updating for a while :(

[Mr Nick]

That's not good. Do you know the cause?

[csouth]

uhhh blown head gasket - won't be updating for a while :(

Sorry to hear that.....

[wfo guy]

I hope you don't find anything worse than the gasket.

[71OLDS]

No idea yet. Heads have to come off first, then check for damage, then try to figure out why it happened. Will update when I know. Oil still looks good (not milky) and all the coolant/water has been drained but won't know anything until the heads are off.

[71OLDS]

The car is on it's way to Frank Trimble in MD to take the heads off and see how bad the situation is. Fingers are crossed. I had plans for Frank to do several projects on the car but I thought it would be around this time next year. We will see what all needs to be done to the motor and then if he can do some other projects from there.

-Joe
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/10/yUa2snl-1.jpg

[71OLDS]

Both head gaskets were blown. Sounds like most likely cause is the wrong head gasket was used. Apparently Edelbrock suggests not using Felpro Blue gaskets with their aluminum heads. I had never heard this before but found others that have. So gaskets will be replaced but other issues have been found in the motor so maybe this was a blessing in disguise. It looks like when the heads were ported through the push rod holes and head bolt holes to get the max flow, the sleeves that were added did not hold up. There was a puddle of oil in the intake port and the oil is "sweating" from around the sleeve but the rest of the port is dry. Also the distributor gear is all chewed up possibly because an iron gear was used with my hyd roller cam instead of a bronze gear. So far that's all the issues found with the motor but there's more digging to come. Will be checking the rings next. Separate from the motor the brand new gas tank that was installed is leaking from the seams and will need to be replaced. Unfortunately is was purchased 10 years ago so no way to get my money back or even to find out/remember where it was purchased. Also fuel related one part of the fuel lines toward the front of the car by the frame are crimped/smashed. We couldn't figure out why the custom manual fuel pump wasn't working but best guess is the fuel couldn't get through at this point w/o the help of an electric pump. Lines will be replaced and manual pump will be tested again. Also Frank and his brother started to try to fix some of the wiring issues on the car. Most of the car will need to be completely rewired. Hoping to get all these issues worked out slowly but surely.

[Mr Nick]

Sounds like this might snowball into a case of "may as wells." Be careful, that can happen easily!

[71OLDS]

Sounds like this might snowball into a case of "may as wells." Be careful, that can happen easily!

Oh there's no doubt about that Nick. But I'm OK with that since the plan is to fix EVERYTHING. All but paint and body issues first. Then drive it for a while. Then just big body issues first (fiberglass parts and welding in metal etc). Then drive it for a while again. Then off for final paint. I just don't want to be years without the car again. If it's not raining or snowing I want to be driving this car. I also want to get it back to the track in 2016 to get some baseline 1/4 mile #s and maybe do some cruises, or track events at Virginia International Raceway (want to do some laps around that course on their open track days) and do the SCCA Solo autocross at Fed Ex Field. Hoping to do all of this in 2016 so need to get all these issues fixed and get the car on the road and ready to be driven hard!!

[71OLDS]

Lots of progress and discovery on the car at Frank Trimble's shop in MD.

Motor is out and a few more issues have been found. There was an issue with the with all the gears getting ground up (dist gear, gear on end of cam) the dist gear was rubbing against the "thrust pad" on the block and actually put a small groove on the block that will need to be repaired. Additionally the 3 week old pilot bearing is trashed and will need to be replaced. All of this caused some small metal pieces to be found from all this grinding so the motor will be fully disassembled and put back together with a Edelbrock recommended head gaskets, the head sleeve issue will be repaired, the groove on the block fixed, the cam & dist gear replaced, and the crank may need to get reground. A few of the bearings and one rod had some minor issues from all this. The bottom line as mentioned the head gaskets blowing was a blessing in disguise there were several other issues that would have done lots more damage if the motor was not torn down. Frank will get everything fixed properly and back in the car.

While the motor is being fixed up the car was rewired and the parking lights and gauges are working now. The dual disk clutch was boxed up and sent back to McLeod to be converted to a "strapped unit" and re-balanced. Apparently I have the old pin drive floater version that had basically a "recall" about 8 years ago. The hydroboost brake setup will be installed to help with the hard pedal with my manual disk/disk set up, the newly purchased gas tank will be replaced (leaking at the seams), the custom manual fuel pump will be installed, some custom work to get the stock valve covers to fit (or stock appearing) and will try to find a way to add the stock breather even with the torker intake. Needs to come down about 1.5 " with a drop base aircleaner welded into the stock air cleaner base and maybe some cutting of the rim where the breather mounts. The QA1 Coilover springs will be changed from the progressive 365-465 rate to 550 linear rate along with the roller bearing washers being added to prevent binding, custom reverse lights setup will be added to work with the Richmond 5 speed, the motor was installed with solid motor mounts (not sure why) those will be swapped for original rubber mounts with the bolts put through them for added strength. Plus lot of other small things that need to be fixed or updated. Can't wait to get the car back with all of these things fixed.

-Joe

[deejai35]

Nice updates. Glad to hear larger issues were caught before catastrophic failure. Several of you have inspiration Oldsmobiles that I follow, so it's good to see the progress.

[cdrod]

.... Also the distributor gear is all chewed up possibly because an iron gear was used with my hyd roller cam instead of a bronze gear.....

Joe:
I really love your car!! It was the inspiration to go the ProTouring route with my '72 442 convertible project. I really appreciated the weight reduction methods you shared in your build thread as I want to shed some weight off the front end to better balance my car front-to-back. Sad to hear of your engine problems but it sounds like you've found additional gremlins to fix while it's apart. Here is a good tip to check out before rebuilding your engine. Make sure the LH oil galley plug has a small hole in it to spray oil on the distributor gear. This is a common oversight by engine builders who are unfamiliar with Olds engines. Without it, your distributor gear is basically running dry, without any lubrication. Your new distributor gear won't last much longer if you rebuild the engine and don't correct this. You can use a bronze gear but they are still softer than the roller cam metal and will be a sacrificial part. For a street driven engine, I'd recommend an Melonized gear which is compatible with most roller cams but harder than the bronze gear for greater longevity and they're cheap. Summit sells one for $25 part#85006-12. My cam grinder swears by it. The composite (aka, plastic) gears are prone to breaking so stay away from those. Good luck with the rebuild! Be sure to post pics.
Rodney

[71OLDS]

Hi Rodney,

Thanks for the kind words and the tip for the distributor gear. I will pass that on to Frank who is getting everything fixed. I actually called Crane Cams - my cam is part # 80HR00013 - it is a billet steel hyd roller but it is made with an iron gear so the iron dist gear that was on it was correct. A billet steel hyd roller would "normally" have bronze dist gear but because my cam had the iron gear on it that changes things. Hardened steel hyd rollers are supposed to generally have hardened steel dist gears. Sounds like this is all over the map so extremely important to check with your cam manufacturer to make sure you get the correct dist gear. Glad to know mine was correct. The bottom line is something else caused it to be chewed up but at least it was the correct part. Unfortunately I will have to send the cam back to Crane to have a new iron gear put on it and obviously replace the distributor gear too. The groove that was put into the block as a result of this has now been fixed and thankfully the rest of the block is OK.

-Joe

[71OLDS]

motor is going back together.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/K9cEJ5e-1.jpg

Unfortunately Crane can't just replace the iron gear on the cam so I have to get a new one. They will give me a $160 discount though so will probably be sticking with a Crane Hyd roller. Considering a different cam with more duration but a wider LSA. We'll see.

[DrFraZZy]

I am curious about Frank Trimble's shop in md. Whats his shop called and what kind of work does he do. I am looking around for a good shop in Maryland.

[71OLDS]

I am curious about Frank Trimble's shop in md. Whats his shop called and what kind of work does he do. I am looking around for a good shop in Maryland.

Frank & Terry Trimble
TR Performance
6796 Mid Cities Avenue
Beltsville, MD 20705
(301) 437-2243

-Joe

[71OLDS]

Pistons are back in. Block was decked again just to clean things up. Pistons are out of the hole a little now

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/35lGGLI-1.jpg

New cam is ordered. Stayed with a Crane hyd roller since I got the discount for sending the one with the chewed up cam gear back. As mentioned went with a wider LSA (112 vs 108) and a little smaller on the intake side (about 4 degrees) The LSA should keep it safe for pump gas.

Old cam: 238/246 @ .050, 292/300 @ .006, 602/614 (1.65) 108 LSA 10.53:1 measured
New cam: 234/246 @ .050, 288/300 @ .006, 592/614 (1.65) 112 LSA will be around 11:1

The Ebrock heads flow 320/210 @ 600 = 66% so the 12 degree spread on the new cam is probably about right. I'm going to miss the healthy idle of the 108 cam but hopefullly the smooth idle will make for better stop light to stop light driving especially with the AC on in the summertime. Also hoping the power will be spread out more and less peaky. Will probably lose some peak power #s but maybe the avearge across the power band will go up. It will be interesting to see how it drives with the new cam. I don't plan on doing another engine dyno but may do a rear wheel dyno in the summer once everything is dialed in. We will see. I found 2 Olds 455 builds with this same cam and a Pontiac 455 with a very similar cam. All made hp at the motor in the 525 – 565 range and tq at the motor in the 560 – 590 range. With the old cam I dyno’d at 528/563. As long as I stay in that range and the motor stays "healthy" for a while I'll be happy. I want to put 3 to 5 k miles on this car a year and really enjoy it. Need the motor to run well and be ready to take a beating. I'm going to drive it hard.

[Mr Nick]

I'm going to drive it hard.

Music to my ears!

I put about 4,000 miles on mine this season, would love to put another 5,000 on it next year. Hot Rod Power Tour accounts for quite a bit of that! WOT 6,000RPM shifts are common for me and my SBO. It's out now to repair an oil leak, and install a different clutch.

[71OLDS]

I'm with you Nick - If it's not raining or snowing I want to be drivng the car. Will be installing a high end alarm w/a tracking device for added comfort when I park it places while running errands. Of course I may park a little farther away from the other cars so my doors won't get hit but I can live with that. I may wait a year to get the paint and body work done just so I can enjoy the car and put 3 to 5 k miles on it. Lots of WOT shifts banging through the gears too!! Will probably have the rev limiter set at 6200 and shift in the 5800 - 6000 range. Also adding a 2 step so I can practice my launches at a preset RPM - will make lots of videos.

[71OLDS]

A few new update pics.
Motor is getting there:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/WIWtpOJ-1.jpg
Engine compartment has all been detailed and hydroboost system is going in:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/Es7Snb8-1.jpg
Fake battery shell is done and will hold MSD digital 6 plus box (real battery is in trunk)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/XUUyfHI-1.jpg

[71OLDS]

some more pics:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/1up3Oig-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/w5sKBpS-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/Knq6USM-1.jpg

[Mr Nick]

Looks great! I like the sneaky look with painted aluminum heads and intake.

My engine is still on the stand in a bag, will get back to it the next couple weekends.

[71OLDS]

Looks great! I like the sneaky look with painted aluminum heads and intake.

My engine is still on the stand in a bag, will get back to it the next couple weekends.

Thanks Nick. I like it to look as stock appearing as possible. Good luck with your engine too!!

[71OLDS]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/kGhRhqe-1.jpg

[csouth]

Looks really good in there!

[71OLDS]

Looks really good in there!

Thanks Chris. It's nice to have everything cleaned up and detailed!!

[71OLDS]

Stock worn out clutch rods replaced with kit by speed direct:

http://www.speeddirect.com/index.php/special-products/rod-links

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/hqh5W98-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/ABEyEXc-1.jpg

[71OLDS]

slowly but surely:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/21nW5Zr-1.jpg

[71OLDS]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/3C0ivq3-1.jpg

hidden in fake battery box:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/l2guqpt-1.jpg

New black fuel lines are routed w/regulator mounted behind passenger side headlight:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/Ezzm4FA-1.jpg

[cdrod]

Hey Joe:
What is that fuel pump? I assume it's a mechanical pump. Do you know if it will clear Edelbrock heads on a small block Olds motor? Thanks!
Rodney

[71OLDS]

Hey Joe:
What is that fuel pump? I assume it's a mechanical pump. Do you know if it will clear Edelbrock heads on a small block Olds motor? Thanks!
Rodney

Hi Rodney,

Yes it's mechanical and will easily clear any heads thanks to it's design (going down). It's custom made by Frank Trimble but unfortunately he only made 2 of them.

-Joe

[Eric W]

Love the car, great work!


Doing some research for my brake system is what led me to this thread, and this forum! Gotta love google right?

[71OLDS]

Love the car, great work!


Doing some research for my brake system is what led me to this thread, and this forum! Gotta love google right?


Hi Eric - thanks for the kind words and welcome - always great to have another Olds on here!! Good luck with your build.

-Joe

[71OLDS]

Video of motor running and car: 442 Feb 2016 video - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ddGRekc2VXk)

3" X pipe and mufflers - REALLY tucked up now and coated. Frank and his brother got the exhaust tucked up about an inch higher so it allowed the car to be lowered about an inch:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/DsN6aR5-1.jpg

Richmond 5 speed, Hooker super comp 1 7/8 headers (will be cleaned up!!), Global West tubular coil over lower control arms, Canton Racing 15-502 baffled 6 qt pan with 15-503 pick-up, won’t uncover the pick-up - During hard cornering. – 8.25” deep, 8” long sump 9.5” wide, not installed is Hotckis 1 3/8 hallow sway bar:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/Vi4Tyoa-1.jpg

Rear wheel:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/m0yd6iU-1.jpg

front wheel:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/02/qZGWxu2-1.jpg

[71OLDS]

The car went for it's first test drive today.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/03/pcOPh5r-1.jpg
Power felt incredible, clutch felt perfect (dual disk updated by McLeod and new correct pilot bearing installed), trans was shifting like butter through the gears (new aftermarket linkage kit to eliminate the slop), new hydroboost system is amazing - feels like pwr brakes and will throw you back in the seat.

....uh and then the ujoint broke and the drive shaft hit the street. Had driveshaft loop so thankfully no damage or issues. We were planning on upgrading the driveshaft and u joints anyway but unfortunately it cut the test drive way short.....and if you notice in the pic - almost lost the "2" in 442 on the fender.

Still VERY HAPPY with the test drive. Can't wait for all the little things to get worked out and get the car back home again!!

-Joe

[813Demon340]

Beautiful 442, keep up the great progress!

[71OLDS]

Beautiful 442, keep up the great progress!

Thanks! Slowly but surely!

-Joe

[Godbolt]

Your motor is a thing of beauty. Great job.

[71OLDS]

Your motor is a thing of beauty. Great job.


Thanks!

[71OLDS]

Beefy new driveshaft and yoke ready to go back in:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/03/uLfD7vQ-1.jpg

[71OLDS]

Trying to get the stock breather to fit under the ram air hood with a Torker intake. Started with the drop base for the 4150 Holley carb:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/04/wh9OAeD-1.jpg

then the drop base was welded into the stock air cleaner:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/04/Kvtouh8-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/04/GUYlpFp-1.jpg

Could only go so far down because of the fuel lines. It's going to be close. We'll see if it fits with the stock breather on there. Will update.

[Ben@SpeedTech]

Yeah, this whole car is just cool.

[71OLDS]

Yeah, this whole car is just cool.

Thanks Ben!

-Joe

- - - Updated - - -

New update - front sway bar issue: So this one is interesting. I've never heard of anyone else with a 70 -72 442/Cutlass have this issue so I thought I would put some details here in case it comes up for someone else. I have the Hotchkis front sway bar on both my 71 442 and my 70 Supreme. The 442 has tubuluar upper and lower control arms with the coil over setup on the front and B-body spindles and it's lowered as you can see in the pics. Here's the issue. The "made for stock" Hotchkis sway bar no longer fits on the 442 with my setup. Not sure if it's the taller spindles or that it's lowered or some combo of everything but the sway bar hits the frame on both sides right where it "V's" up. Said another way the sway bar is no longer wide enough or long enough to fit. So we had a choice to try to go with a custom sway bar or let Frank work is metal skills and fabricate the Hotchkis bar to fit. So I asked Frank to give it a try. It was decided the "safest" way to do this was to cut the sway bar in the exact middle and weld in about a 1" piece of metal. This lengthens the bar just enough where the V's clear the frame and the bar ends up fitting perfectly. The sway bar is hollow but has a 1/4" wall. The piece Frank added is press fit into each tube about an inch and a half. The welding is very tricky - the dangerous part is making it too hard and causing a crack. Frank pulled it off because he's the man with his metal work. Here are some pics:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/04/S8TpvTo-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/04/1zhHE1B-1.jpg

[71OLDS]

Both sides fit perfect now. If you see in the first pic that rub area on the frame - that's the exact spot it was hitting before on both sides. Now with the car on the ground the sway bar doesn't hit the upper ball joint or or the frame. Plus you can fit a finger between the bar and the frame:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/04/jsdR0Pi-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/04/RqczqWL-1.jpg

[71OLDS]

Air cleaner is painted and breather is mounted. Inner fender wells are in. Still don't have the hood mounted and not 100% sure it's going to fit with the breather. I can tell from the height of where it sits it's going to be close:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/04/0FBep6V-1.jpg
[URL=http://s303.photobucket.com/user/jl71442/media/20160411_181411_zpstbj3wwkc.jpg.html]
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/04/MAyGKfO-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/04/eb1ppdP-1.jpg

[71OLDS]

With the battery in the trunk - added the shut off switch for safety. Went with the black pull/off handle in the lower bumper hole:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/04/uEabHqB-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/04/Dp5aJV2-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/04/zbECa9G-1.jpg

[71OLDS]

Great news on the breather - the hood is officially closed so the custom drop base worked with the Torker intake. The hood still has some issues sticking up a little in the back and with the chrome piece in the back sticking off too far but none of those issues have anything to do with the breather. They will be worked out when the body work is done. Here is a pic with the hood installed and closed:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/0JLeF9f-1.jpg

I'm actually picking up the car Tuesday after next (5/17) and driving it back home to enjoy for the summer. I will not be getting the paint and body work done until the winter or even 2017. Once I get the car home I will take some videos to show the close up details of the breather and how it works and how the drop base looks for anyone who wanted to see that.

[Mr Nick]

Which hood is that? I'd love to put a 70 OAI on my 69, but the potential labor cost to make it look good scares me.

[71OLDS]

Which hood is that? I'd love to put a 70 OAI on my 69, but the potential labor cost to make it look good scares me.

it's the Glasstek all fiberglass bolt on repro hood with the air box. Got it about 15 year ago. I have the same one on my Cutlass Supreme. I think they are pretty good for the price ($600 ish). Not perfect and don't have the metal frame's like the "real" ones or the Thorton hoods but you will pay a lot for one of those. Also the all glass hoods are lighter which is nice. I had the factory looking screen added to mine to make it look more like the real one and leave the "waffle" marks on the foam on the breather. Plus it does stop leaves from flying in.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2012/06/8pUi5xT-1.jpg

Not sure what's involved to put one on a 69 but I have seen lots of them with them - they always fake me out and make me think it's a 70 when I see one from a distance.

[71OLDS]

A few more pics and details on the airlcleaner/dropbase to get the breather to fit with the Torker intake:

Because the aircleaner was soooo low with the new drop base, the throttle bracket had to be modified to clear the aircleaner.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/Ed6gXwK-1.jpg

The two pieces of the aluminum drop base had to be epoxied together and to the aircleaner:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/TvfVZ7J-1.jpg

First coat of epoxy on and drying:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/9t64Ifk-1.jpg

[71OLDS]

Got the car to a good stopping point on all the projects. Picking it up on Tuesday and driving it home from MD back to Virginia Beach. Hoping for a fun 4 hour drive and no issues. We'll see how it goes. Also plan on weighing the car at a scale in Falls Church, VA first then will head back to VB from there. Going to enjoy the car for the summer. Here's a pic of the motor today with the aircleaner all done, hood on and all working well with the breather and the Torker intake. Will take some videos when I get it back.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/YL5lJPW-1.jpg

[71OLDS]

Rained the entire drive but made it safely back home....again. A few pics I took at the same rest stop as last time:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/UGPaOgG-1.jpg?1
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/r3aNPuZ-1.jpg?1
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/w2y9g4j-1.jpg?1
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/mcGcSJ1-1.jpg?1

I was able to get the weigh in done. With me and a 1/2 tank it was 4,060 and 3,850 car alone. Previous weigh in without fiberglass and aluminum parts plus Brian Trick's lightening of the core support was 4,370 so 310 lb drop!! Not too bad. Still heavy and was hoping to be under 4,000 with me in the car but still an huge difference.

[Godbolt]

Looking good. I'd be tempted to coat it in matte black plastidip unit you paint it. Stance is spot on.

[71OLDS]

Looking good. I'd be tempted to coat it in matte black plastidip unit you paint it. Stance is spot on.

Thanks. I'm tempted to do the opposite and get the black and grey fiberglass panels hit with a "quickie" job of the original lime green (at a Maaco or something) then add the correct stripes so I can drive the car for a while in all it's correct colors. The body work required (cutting out and welding in metal in quarters, many fiberglass panel issues (gaps, alignment etc)) plus a full "complete" paint job will take 6 months (or longer) in paint jail and cost thousands. I just want to drive the car for a while and get everything dialed in. Would like to hold off on the "full" paint job for a year or two. I know many will cringe at the thought of a $1,000 quickie Maaco job making it a "10 footer" for a year or two but I'm fine with that. I will be putting about 5k miles a year on the car and enjoying it.

[Godbolt]

Good plan.

[71OLDS]

Been doing lots of little projects since the car has been back home. Already put 800 miles on the car in about 2 weeks :) That includes the drive home from MD but been doing LOTS of test driving and tuning/tweaks over the last week. Had perfect weather Wed, Thurs, Fri, & Sat (yesterday). I had the top down with the boot on:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/wZyrN49-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/1nSZ9Su-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/cwCHWen-1.jpg

and put about 350 miles on the car just driving around over those 4 days.

Some updates. Had to raise the front coil overs about an inch because the top of the drivers side front tire was hitting the fender well on pot holes, bumps, and entering driveways. I think I have it in a good spot now where it won't hit anymore.

Unfortunately the alignment was done w/o the steering box centered so right now it will let me turn 1.8 turns to the left but only 1.2 to the right. Need to get it redone for 1.5 each way (AGR steering box) The box is leaking a little from the shaft seal too so will hopefully get both those issues fixed next week.

The AC is not able to be used right now which is disappointing - having idle issues with the carb and fan set up. The idle can go up or down about 400 RPM (600 to 1000 RPM) from cold start up to fully hot. When the electric fans come on, the idle drops. As the motor and heats up the idle goes up. If I turn on the AC on the car will stall if idling. Will need to add an idle solenoid to the street avenger 770 carb to raise the idle when the AC is on and try to dial in the idle issues on the carb itself. Also having some issues with the throttle being a little too tight. Only an issue when leaving from a dead stop. A "soft" granny leave off the line from a dead stop is hard because the throttle "sticks" and doesn't want to go smoothly off the line. Going to try softer springs to see if that helps. It's not so bad when everything is cold but as the clutch and motor heats up it gets worse. I can leave the line hard = tire spin or "jerky" as I try to ease it and the throttle sticks.

Anyway lots of little issue like that to get worked out but banging through the gears has been a blast over the last few days. The throttle response and power feels incredible. Massive tire spin all through first gear even with the big 18" 305 drag radials. Even a rolling start is hard not to spin. Been enjoying hitting the corners and even a little drifting sideways action too :) Doing this caused the big tires in the rear with very little space between the frame and the 3" tail pipes to start to rub/hit. So I took the car to a Midas had them heat up the areas of the tail pipe where it was hitting and put a "flat spot" there for added clearance. No more rubbing or hitting. Took a few pics of that:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/sZQaJo4-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/ujKF57o-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/LvgXa1k-1.jpg

you can also see the shiny part in that last pic where it was hitting the inner well in that one spot. Did some "massaging" there then coated everything in some high heat flat black and I can now get as sideways as I want and no more rubbing. Probably gained about 1/2" on each side which did the trick.

[71OLDS]

Upgraded the old Alpine deck to a new Sony MEX-GS610BT Bluetooth/IPOD/2 way voice w/mic above steering column

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/cwCHWen-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/mNePDLa-1.jpg

It is Bluetooth connected to by cell phone now (no wires) so all my songs, directions on the phone, and incoming and outgoing calls are hands free and wireless through the stereo. There's a small mic mounted above the steering column and below the speedo and tach. So cool to have all that technology now in my 71 car!! :) Can press the button on my Iphone and ask for directions into the mic and it cuts the music and gives me step by step directions through the speakers. Can answer the phone and talk hands free while driving. I had no idea what the newer car stereos could do!!

[71OLDS]

I purchased the set of the factory original floor mats with the OLDSMOBILE on them in the front. I love the factory original look of these:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/Cwfj3MH-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/z7m0pJd-1.jpg

[deejai35]

Looking good. It's good to see you are enjoying the car along the way!

[72olds]

Just saw your updates Joe! looking great...getting a little closer on mine as well! Thanks again for your help and its been great to watch yours come along! 127796127797127798

[71OLDS]

Looking good. It's good to see you are enjoying the car along the way!

Thanks!


Just saw your updates Joe! looking great...getting a little closer on mine as well! Thanks again for your help and its been great to watch yours come along!

Thanks! Not sure what I helped with but you're welcome :) Your car is looking great!!

Finally got around to doing the video. You can see the working breather installed with the Torker intake and ram air hood here:

123 - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VFirYAXkyI4)

[71OLDS]

Got my alarm system installed today. Went with the Python system that's the same as the Viper. Will activate off door pins, console pin, and had a pin added under the ram air hood and in the trunk. Blinking blue light box stays on dash in the driver's side corner of the window. Key fab turns everything on/off with or w/o beeps. Also got the tracking device installed. Plus I still use my old school steering wheel lock. Since I'm driving it about 5k miles per year (anytime it's not raining or snowing) the alarm will give me added comfort when I park it. I also upped the insurance coverage to $70k. Took it to the gym today and left it with the top down all locked down and alarmed up :) Will post some pics later.

[71OLDS]

Unfortunately my 10+ year old Stewart Warner speedometer wont stop "sticking". I got it all dialed in and accurate but it sticks so much that I'm not 100% confident how fast I'm going. Because it's so old and they no longer make it my only option is to send it off to be fixed or order a new speedometer that matches with all my other gauges so it still looks correct and I don't have to replace them all.

On a positive note I'm really happy with the speedometer I found. So happy that I'm buying the matching tach to go with it. It's from a company called Speed Hut and looks the same as my Stewart Warner one but it's a GPS speedo which allows it to have lots of high tech new features including a compass, digital mph, clock, 0 -60 times, 1/4 mile time and mph, and the standard trip features. The coolest thing about this company is that it allows you to add a small custom logo for $10. I found an Olds Rocket that worked with their requirements and ordered them today. Here's a pic of each one:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/06/TiVSpHH-1.png
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/06/9UMd3b9-1.png

[deejai35]

Great choice on the gauges.

[71OLDS]

Great choice on the gauges.

Thanks! Can't wait to get them back and installed. Takes about 3 weeks for them to be made.

[71OLDS]

The metal bracket that goes from the frame to the Z bar broke in half on a drive last night. Clutch went to the floor. Have to get a new bracket welded on and see if anything else got damaged in the process. Will be off the road for a while :(

[71OLDS]

I custom ordered a new shift ball from Speed Dawg. Hard to tell in the pics but it's twice the size of the stock ball (cue ball size) and has the correct pattern for my Richmond 5 speed. Looking forward to banging through the gears with this when the z bar bracket is replaced/fixed. It took 5 weeks for it to be made but unbelievably was only $30 :)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/06/ngspGrV-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/06/srVuGe3-1.jpg?2

[71OLDS]

Still waiting on the bracket to arrive to replace the one that snapped in half (from frame to Z bar) that caused the clutch to go to the floor. In the mean time a local shop here in Virginia Beach (Rory and Son's) is making good progress with my AC. Will add the detail here in case anyone else runs into this. All the parts of the AC have been upgraded new aluminum compressor (cut the weight in half), new condenser, new POA valve, all new hoses, full R134 conversion - however there were still several problems: 1. The car would not idle without stalling with the AC on, 2. There was a huge power surge when it came on 3. It was not blowing out properly in the interior/vents 4 It is missing the duct that goes to the driver's side vent but found one on Ebay and ordered it.

So...yesterday lot of positives for the AC. To deal with the idle issue, I ordered a solenoid that goes with my Holley Street Avenger carb. This little solenoid attaches to the throttle and when the AC is turned on increases the idle to a point where the car won't stall.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/06/oVbECzn-1.jpg

Sounds easy enough but like everything else, it's not. The A6 compressors cycle on and off as the AC is running so every time this happens the solenoid would drop its hold on the throttle and the car would stall. Solution was to add a toggle switch in the interior that keeps the solenoid on at all times while the AC is on regardless of whether or not the compressor is cycling on or off. This has all been hooked up and is working like a charm now. I turn on the toggle switch and touch the gas pedal once touch and the solenoid pushes up the idle to about 1400 RPM. Then turn on the AC and it drops to about 1100 RPM and idles nice an smooth.

Next issue was the power surge. Turns out this was related to my electric fans. Apparently all the new cars have an overide that when the AC is turned on, the electric fans come on and stay on the entire time. What I didn't know is my elec fans thermostat setup (hidden away in my fake battery shell) had a spot open and ready for the AC to be hooked up to. The guys wired it properly and all good there. Now when the AC is turned on the elec fans come on and stay on until the AC is turned off then it goes back to the thermostat settings.

The not blowing on the inside through the vents turned out to be a vacuum line that was not hooked up correctly behind the dash.

So I 3 of the 4 issues are resolved now. I sat in the car and tested everything and it blows ICE cold at idle on an 80 degree day here in Virginia Beach and idle is smooth right around 1100 RPM. Turn the AC and toggle switch off and it drops back down to about 800 with the nice lope from the cam coming back. Will have to do some real life testing with some hard core street driving and cruises with the AC on and off to see how well it's working, does it stay cold at all times?, any power loss issue while it's on? etc etc Will add some details when I do. Still have to add the duct for the drivers side vent but will get to that down the road.

[71OLDS]

Broken z bar bracket has been replaced and all is good there. The one that broke was NOT correct. It was a custom skinny piece of metal that was welded on. The stock correct piece is bolted to the frame and is much thicker metal. Hoping it can hold up to the abuse I'm going to create banging through the gears for many many years.

Custom reverse light switch was added to the Richmond 5 speed. Works great and I don't have to have the car in reverse or 5th to take the key out.

Got lots of driving in with the AC over the last few days. It's been in the 90s and 100% humidity here in Virginia Beach and the AC worked like a champ and kept me nice a cool driving around. It's bad ass to be in a convertible with the windows and top up at a stop light on a 90 degree day. This is my 13th 442 or Cutlass for my lifetime and I've NEVER had working cold AC in any of my cars. What a concept!! So I tried to get on it a few times with the AC on and the butt dyno feels like about a 20% drop in power. Still cool to light em up with the AC blowing cold but definitely a power sucker.

That's all the good news. Bad news I have 2 new issues that came up with all this heat. Oil temp is hitting the 240 degree mark after about 30 min of driving in this extreme heat and humidity - especially with the AC on and me getting on it. Then related to this I started to have some vapor lock. Very strange. When this happens the RPMS just don't want to go above about 4000 and it runs like crap. As soon as the temps cool down the lost power and RPMs are back. I think for starters I'm going to do an oil change. I've got about 1,500 miles on the new motor and it's a regular 10/40 blend used to break the motor in. I think I'm going to swap it out for some mobile one synthetic and see if that helps bring the oil temps down a little. If not a may consider adding an oil cooler. I know 240 degrees isn't terrible but if it starts to creep up higher that will concern me and keep me from getting on it. The water temps are staying around 160 -180 but I have the dual electric fans and huge Be Cool aluminum radiator keeping that cool. The oil is still crystal clear, there's good oil pressure, and no smoke or anything so I don't think there's an issue but I want to be able to drive the car hard in any conditions without any worries so I will get this worked out one way or the other.

I talked to Frank Trimble (my engine builder) about his custom fuel pump and he has a plan for the fuel lines to help with the vapor lock. Will definitely make some changes there to prevent that from happening.

[71OLDS]

Oil change is done - went with Mobile 1 Synthetic 10/40 per the suggestion of my engine builder. Also did some carb tuning. It's always run a little rich. Both idle mixture screws on the 770 Holley street avenger were out 2 turns. I tried turning them in 1/4 turn at a time and both the idle and vacuum went up all the way to a full turn. So now they are only one turn out instead of 2. The air fuel gauge shows around 12.5 to 13 now instead of being pegged at 12 (the lowest reading) meaning it was probably less than 12. Pulled some plugs and they showed the expected results that it needs to be leaned out. May drop down a size in Jets but will check the plugs again in a few weeks.

Also having some other strange issues with the carb. It usually idles around 850 when warmed up but now when I drive it, it won't go below 1,100 when I stop unless I tap the gas. Almost like the choke is sticking or something is binding. Also the first 1/2" or so of the gas pedal/throttle when leaving from a stop is "sticking". It won't let me leave the line slow. I have to get it past this sticking point which makes me lurch off the line from a dead stop. I can also feel it stick on the 1-2 shift when I'm Granny driving. I wondering if these 2 issues are related. Trying to trouble shoot both. Won't do much driving until these 2 are fixed. Not fun to drive like this.

[71OLDS]

New GPS Speedo and tach arrived today:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/06/IIqtK20-1.jpg?1

Hope to get these installed in a few weeks. Really happy with how they came out. Love the Olds rocket on there!!

[71OLDS]

Carb issue has been solved. We figured out a much tighter throttle spring eliminates the idle not coming down at stops (staying way up at 1100 to even 1500) but made the gas pedal super hard and the car almost not able to be driven at slow speeds, then a soft spring eliminated the hard gas pedal and made for easy slow starts but then the idle wouldn't come back down from the higher RPMs w/o tapping the gas pedal and sometimes that didn't work. The carb guy I was working with suggested going with a medium spring that was just enough to pull the RPMs down at stops and then suggested moving the throttle cable ball attachment to a higher hole on the carb bracket for better leverage with less effort. Once moved the pedal was soft and the RPMs come down with the medium spring. Can't believe how easy the fix was. Below is the "before" pic. The ball/cable was moved to that empty hole just above where it is now:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/06/oVbECzn-1.jpg

[71OLDS]

Had more issues that came up. Electrical this time. My subwoofers (2 x 10" JLs) blew which is not the end the of the world or that surprising since they are 15 yrs old but the chain of events that happened from there was very frustrating. I stopped by my local stereo guy but he's was booked up for a week and as I was leaving his shop I got a pop up on my phone that my battery was low. That is a feature on the new alarm system I didn't even know I had. I looked at my volts gauge and sure enough it was showing around 9 or 10 volts. My battery is in the trunk so I checked it out. It's a yellowtop Optima and they usually last forever. The date showed 2012 so I figured it must have lived it's life. Found the best deal and replaced it. Drove the car again and still got the pop up and sure enough the volts were back down again but this time with the new battery. I called the stereo guy to see if he had any ideas and he said when you have blown subs and the amp keeps pushing 500 watts to the subs it could drain the battery. Go figure. So I disconnected the entire stereo including the amps/subs and the volts went up to about 12 but if I used any electrical items (AC, conv top, pwr windows etc) the volts would go back to 9 or 10 and not come back up. So I check my 15 year old 140 amp alternator and sure enough it wasn't charging. I got a new Powermaster alternator (150 amp this time) and all is good. Sadly my 2012 Optima battery was probably fine but strange that the subs and the alternator both died only a few days apart. Getting new subs installed tomorrow so hopefully will be all set on these issues and get back to all the other projects!!

[deejai35]

Thanks for sharing your progress. My next muscle car will have AC.

[71OLDS]

Thanks for sharing your progress. My next muscle car will have AC.

Glad to share my progress. Just in case someone else has some of these same issues I'm sure it will help. Nothing is better then when I have an issue and I find a resolution online and can get it fixed. AC is a huge undertaking if I"m being honest to get it all done right but well worth it when it's done in my opinion.

The new sub is in and I'm very happy with it. Went with a kicker 12" this time instead of 2x10s. I think it sounds a little better than it did and it sounded great to begin with. It's called the Kicker Comp RT "loaded enclosure. Here's the detail on it:

Kicker's 43TCWRT124 loaded enclosure puts a thumping 12" CompRT subwoofer and a second passive sub behind the seat of a truck or in any vehicle that's low on space. The rugged sealed box was designed specifically for the subwoofer, so you can count on getting maximum performance, no matter what kind of tunes you enjoy. The second sub (called a "passive radiator") reacts to the air pressure produced by the active sub, creating lots more bass without producing any port noise.

Strange to see one of them is "passive" but the sound is amazing and the entire box setup was almost 10 lbs lighter than my previous one. Can't beat that. The box has to be small for my car since it's a convertible and the convertible top well has to remain open. This kit fit in the same spot perfectly so it was an easy decision especially when I heard how incredible it sounded. Here's a pic of the sub box:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/07/GjfnW0N-1.jpg

[Mr Nick]

The reduced effort on the pedal came at the expense of reduced travel at the throttle arm. Make sure you are still getting WOT with the pedal floored.

[71OLDS]

The reduced effort on the pedal came at the expense of reduced travel at the throttle arm. Make sure you are still getting WOT with the pedal floored.

Hi Nick - no issues with WOT - Lots of "testing" on that all weekend. Probably 20 or 30 times so definitely no issues there. I did discover the trans shifts smoother and faster at 6000 RPM than at 5000 or 5500 or even 5800. No idea why but made for some fun drives. Took out a SRT 4 door charger (not sure what year) and got my lunch handed to me by a Z06 but was really happy with how the car was running. Man that 650/650 Z06 was impressive. Didn't notice the Z06 badge until it was way too late but not one to turn down a challenge. At least I know where I stand - somewhere between a Hemi charger (4 door to keep it real) and a Z06 -I'm guessing it was 2015 or 16?? .....but WOT is working great.

[71OLDS]

Painted white OLDSMOBILE letters on my breather and added the hose with the white line on it:



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/07/wTUboKO-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/07/5mRmLhY-1.jpg

[Mr Nick]

I think I've said this before, but hats off to you for beating that thing like you should. I love cruising in mine!

[71OLDS]

Thanks Nick! I'm putting about 150 - 200 hard miles on it every week that there's not a project being done or I'm traveling for work. I really think I'll be putting at least 5k miles a year on it w/no problems. Of course at some point I'll have to bite the bullet and put it in paint and body jail. I may do that in "stages" just so it won't be gone for too long. We'll see.

Love the new look of your car BTW - Black top looks great and awesome pic you have in your sig of it cruising!!

-Joe

[71OLDS]

Been a few weeks since I updated here. About 2 weeks ago was driving and all of a sudden there was a horrific noise with vibration and grinding. It sounded and felt like rocks in a blender. I was barely able to pull off the road. Had to push the car the last 20 yards or so to get to a safe spot. Shut the car off and looked around and under the car. Was expecting to see carnage of some kind. It all looked fine. Opened the hood. All looked fine. Started the car up and no issues. Went to let the clutch out - rocks in blender again. Put it in neutral and tried to let the clutch out. Rocks in a blender. Tried shifting through the gears with the clutch in - shifted like butter as always. So I knew it was trans related but not sure what it was. Called my local trans shop I use here in Virginia Beach (Rory and Son's) and they said they were booked up until yesterday. Had to have the car towed to my house where it sat for 2 weeks. Towed it over to the shop yesterday - diagnoses - multiple broken teeth on the 2nd gear main shaft and 2nd gear cluster on my Richmond 5 speed. They got all the teeth out and it appears there is no other damage. Going to order a new 2nd gear main shaft and cluster and a new throw out bearing from McLeod and have it put back together. Hoping to have it back on the road banging through the gears by next week. Really need this trans to hold up for a few more years until I can upgrade to the Magnum 6 speed. Way too many other projects to get done now (like all the paint and body). Hoping I can wait a few years on that....we'll see how it goes.

[71OLDS]

New 2nd gears are back in the Richmond 5 speed and I had it back on the road today. Did a 6000 RPM shift after a good warm up and all seems good. Also got my last A/C duct installed on the drivers side while the new GPS Speedo and tach from Speedhut were installed. Really love these gauges so far. MPH is dead on (tracking tire size and RPM) and no sticking like I had before with my Stewart Warner speedo. Also has digital MPH in the little window as well as a compass, 0-60, 1/4 mile, elevation, clock, and highest speed. Tach works great too. Got the RPM and shift light all dialed in. Like it to go off at 5,600 for a 6,000 shift. Here are some pics I took today in the garage of the gauges. Sorry for the lighting but it still shows them pretty well:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/08/cIsX2xp-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/08/RroSVPM-1.jpg

[Lickity Split]

From one 71 Olds owner to another, I love your build and the time and effort you've put into it. I've been investing/collecting in parts for the better part of 3 years and the car is currently getting bolted back together... Can't wait to have it back.

Nice job!

[71OLDS]

From one 71 Olds owner to another, I love your build and the time and effort you've put into it. I've been investing/collecting in parts for the better part of 3 years and the car is currently getting bolted back together... Can't wait to have it back.

Nice job!

Thanks! Good luck with your build. It takes a long time to get these cars how you want. Lots of time and lots of money!

Speaking of that I had some bad news last night. Took the car out for a 2nd drive with the new gears and the trans back in and the same thing happened again. Same horrific noise and situation as before so I'm sure I sheared some teeth off again. I guess this Richmond 5 speed just can't survive behind the almost 600 lb feet of torque the motor is putting out. Time for the 5 speed to come out and the Magnum 6 speed (rated to 700 lb feet) to go in it's place. I'm guessing that's it for me for 2016 with the 442. Will have the car towed to MD to Frank Trimble and get the trans ordered. It's no small undertaking with a new tunnel and hump having to be created to go around the massive 6 speed and trying to get the stock console to fit. I don't think this will be done before the winter hits so will probably have to wait for spring of '17 to have the car back on the road. Was hoping to get all the paint and body work done this winter but I guess that will have to wait especially with what the 6 speed and labor is going to cost me :(

[Jeff70]

Your gonna love the Magnum. Ya think you can make the factory console work?

[71OLDS]

Your gonna love the Magnum. Ya think you can make the factory console work?

I hope so. Definitely going to try. Spent some time researching the new trans and setup. Going with the Magnum 6 speed rated at 700 ft lbs and will swap out my 3.31s for 4.10s

Here's what the #s will look like with the new trans and rear:

Magnum TR6060 6 speed (2.66, 1.78,1.30,1.00, .8, .63)

W: 4.10 gears & 305/45/18 Nitto DRs:

{28.78” tire}
1st = 4.10*2.66= 10.91 launch multiplier/ 2nd =4.10* 1.78 = 7.30 /3rd =4.10*1.30=5.33 4th =4.10*1.00=4.10
Shift points:
1-2 47 mph 6000 RPM (RPM drop to 4000 67%)
2-3 70 mph 6000 RPM (RPM drop to 4400 73%)
3-4 96 mph 1/8th mile 6000 RPM (RPM drop to 4600 77%)
Cross traps for 1/4 mile at approx.: 117 mph = 5600 RPM (in 4th gear) w/current motor
125 mph =6000 RPM (in 4th gear) - room to grow (future stroker motor 650/650)

POWER RANGE = 4000 – 6000 (2000 RPM Power band)

2300 RPM = 60 MPH in 5th and 76 mph in 6th
65 mph in 5th gear @ 2500 RPM (W/28.78”)
70 mph in 6th gear @ 2100 RPM (W/28.78”)
75 mph in 6th gear @ 2263 RPM (W/28.78”)
80 mph in 6th gear @ 2413 RPM (W/28.78”)
150 mph in 6th gear @ 4525 RPM (W/28.78”)

[71OLDS]

Here are some older pics I found of a T56 install w/the console. If I understand correctly the Magnum is a little bigger than the older T56 and will require even MORE cutting but I believe the location will be about the same. Note the shifter handle will be much further back than stock so the console will have to be as well.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/08/h2RBxOP-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/08/fL5LNo9-1.jpg

[71OLDS]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/08/zRi3G0I-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/08/biAjeyW-1.jpg

[Jeff70]

Maybe use the "mid-shift" option on the Magnum, the forward shifter location. You might have to play with offset shifters like this.


http://www.hurst-drivelines.com/hurst-blackjack-shifters/

[71OLDS]

Maybe use the "mid-shift" option on the Magnum, the forward shifter location. You might have to play with offset shifters like this.


http://www.hurst-drivelines.com/hurst-blackjack-shifters/

Thanks for that - will probably go with one of the company's that has the complete kit. So far leaning towards this one:

http://americanpowertrain.com/i-8521601-1968-72-bop-a-body-gto-lemans-442-cutlass-gs-skylark-6-speed-kit.html

Only one I've seen so far designed for 68-72 GM A-body - still searching and researching though.

[71OLDS]

While I'm waiting on my builder to be ready to install the new trans I decided to start working on my plan for rollover protection and shoulder harness seat belts. I spent $30 at Home Depot and bought some PVC pipe to mock it up. As ugly as this looks it really helped to figure out exactly where the bars would have to go to work around the interior. I'm going to order the shoulder belts too and mount the to the PVC just to make sure everything fits correctly and lines up well. Here's the ugliest rollbar set up you may ever see!!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/09/xjaKtOD-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/09/KTPRzx1-1.jpg?1
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/09/63VQ8Ih-1.jpg

[71OLDS]

I am calling it "roll over Protection" vs a roll bar or roll cage because I understand this may NOT be NHRA legal and I'm OK with that. My goal is to have roll over protection uh....in case the car is rolled over in a crash and to combine that with shoulder harness seat belts for daily driving. I will have removable bars throughout that can be added for track days but once again simply because some of these bars are removable makes them not NHRA legal. So I should be fine at 1/8 mile tracks (even w/o any roll bar/roll over protection) but may have to get lucky at certain 1/4 mile tracks or possibly only do show and go events where they are a little more lenient on the standards.

the actual main hoop would have to go through the armrest in the back like this:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/09/xjf0ZBU-1.jpg?1

The cross bar behind the seats and the door bars will all be removable using these type of brackets:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/09/5jniM9u-1.jpg

note the down bars at the top and the screws there. Here's a close up:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/09/GSIMqKI-1.jpg

every removable bar will have this on both ends.

So when I want to run with the full set up I can install the cross bar behind the seat, add the 5 pt harness, install the down bars and door bars and look something like this:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/09/zfLsXxK-1.jpg

The rest of the time it will just be the main hoop and the shoulder harness like this:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/09/JScYUhh-1.jpg

or this:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/09/iEJk0Lc-1.jpg

[71OLDS]

My wife's car is a 2004 Nissan 350Z convertible. Unbelievably the shoulder belt setup in her car is a nice match for my plan. Here are some pics:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/09/fJ2TPXv-1.jpg?1

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/09/sTQyTOT-1.jpg?1

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/09/oAMUcuA-1.jpg?1

The location of where that bolts in is the same height and location over my shoulder when sitting in both cars if you compare it to this pic:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/09/I6KfsoM-1.jpg?1

The nice thing is after the bolt it has a small extension pushing the belt up about 1" and forward toward the drivers shoulder about 2.5". This should put the belt right where it needs to be to just reach around and grab it w/o having to contort your body to reach it. I'm hoping I can buy these 2004 Nissan 350Z belts in black. We'll see. What a stroke of luck to have such a great match for my plan sitting right beside my 442 in the garage!! :)

[71OLDS]

Will try to go as close to NHRA legal as possible except with the removable bars that makes it NOT NHRA legal of course.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/09/ssGlk6M-1.jpg

Here's my crude drawing/plan:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/09/IUTWyw3-1.jpg

All the white bars would be removable with these:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/09/72rkjrJ-1.jpg

on both ends.

The main hoop will go down to the frame. The door bars will go down to the frame and the down bars will go down to the frame. Problem is when the door bars and down bars are not connected only the main hoop will be supported by the frame. To help a LITTLE with this when the bars are removed I want to run a small bar along the floor board that connects the bottom of the main hoop and the bottom of the door bar. You can see this in the pic above. I'm hoping I could actually run this bar under the carpet so it will be less obvious but help provide some additional support especially when all the bars are removed. Additionally you can see in the pic a small angled bar at the bottom coming off the main hoop. I'm hoping this will help add more support to the main hoop when the removable bars are out and will be able to go behind the panel and speaker so it won't be seen. Will need to work around the convertible top cylinder and rear speaker. This pic I found online shows what I mean and what I will have to work around:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/09/nRE67hA-1.jpg


If this works it would be great if it could also go all the way down to the frame.

[71OLDS]

slowly making progress on the mock up for the roll bar/should belt - ran into several issues trying to set it up the way I wanted and had to make a few adjustments/changes. First the support bar from the main hoop to the frame that I wanted to add to provide support when the door bars, down bars, & rear bar were removed couldn't go where I originally planned because of the speaker and just not having enough room to keep it hidden. So I put it from the factory steel part just above the conv top cylinder (where the stock shoulder belt option attaches) to the main hoop. This allowed it to be hidden but still provide a solid foundation for support.

You can see the steel part I'm referring to best in this pic:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/10/SprFyWD-1.jpg

Hard to see in these pics but this is where it will go:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/10/WMp3BHH-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/10/oK0s2xf-1.jpg?1

You can also see the light wiring and the power window button in these 2 pics above if you look closely. They both had to to be relocated for this to work.

[71OLDS]

You can see the main hoop, support bar, and shoulder belt in this pic:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/10/UB9Wf8G-1.jpg?1

here's the shoulder harness:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/10/GR6vTWd-1.jpg?1

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/10/FXjl13M-1.jpg?1

I understand this is all an ugly mess right now. Lots of bent metal pieces and duct tape. I had to build it from scratch piece by piece just as a mock up. I don't want to do too much cutting or drilling in case when the real roll bar is welded in there are slight changes but I wanted to take it far enough so the big issues were covered. I'm really glad I did this because there's really only one spot for the main hoop to go through the floor board to the frame and work with this plan. Then everything tags off of that. The seat belts will only work one way and in one location which means the light on the front panel had to be relocated and of course the power window button had to be moved to the outside panel and the support bar would only work in one location. As usual you change one thing and it starts a domino effect.

Once this is all done it will be professionally covered in the stock white vinyl with the wood grain piece to make it look as close to factory correct as possible. The belt works exactly the way I hoped it would. I wanted it to remain BELOW the sight line from the side view of the car with the top down but still be able to properly go around your shoulder and support the driver and passenger the way it should. It does that very well. With the top piece on you can't see anything but the belt hanging from the opening. You can also get in and out of the back seat easily. The belt is not in your way once the seat is folded forward.

[71OLDS]

Another change I had to adjust for was the removable door bar design. Originally I wanted to have the seat belt attached just above the door bar and use this type of removable bar:


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/10/4622__x_GTR_Rollbar_White_Blog3_zpsqpd5z-1.jpg (http://s303.photobucket.com/user/jl71442/media/4622__x_GTR_Rollbar_White_Blog3_zpsqpd5zrfo.jpg.ht ml)

Unfortunately if I did it that way the seat belt couldn't slide up and down because the part of the bar that was attached would block it. I will still use this type of removable piece for the bottom of the door bars (and both sides of the rear bar, and both sides of the down bars) but for the top of the door bar I will have to use one welded piece that has a hole for the belts when the door bars are not on and then that same bolt hole will be used for the removable top door bar (meaning the shoulder belt will have to be unbolted to use the door bar). This is not ideal but there is no way around it. The good news is I will only use/attach the door bars when I also attach the rear bar and the 5 pt harness on track days. Also in order to do this I will have to customize and removable panel/piece so the seat belts can come out and the door bar can go in. Because of this I decided to extend the removable piece around to the side for the rear bar. So the removable piece will come off, the seat belt will be unbolted and the door bars, rear bar, and 5 pt harness will be attached for track days.

See the door bar piece in this pic. This triangular piece will be welded to the main hoop for the seat belt to be bolted to for most of the time, then used for the door bar (with seat belt removed) on track days:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/10/misc20014_zps40cgl3tp-1.jpg (http://s303.photobucket.com/user/jl71442/media/misc20014_zps40cgl3tp.jpg.html)

[vwmopar]

I love that green! Is it factory color?

[71OLDS]

I love that green! Is it factory color?

Yes paint code 43 Oldsmobile Lime Green for 1971

[71OLDS]

Here's a close up of that triangular piece that will serve as the direct bolting location for the belt as well as the removable door bar top mount

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[71OLDS]

For reference points on the other side here's a good pic for locations:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Where that main hoop goes into the armrest is the ONLY spot it will fit. There is less than 1/8 of an inch all the way around it. The rectangle drawn in sharpie is where the light is relocated to and the circle drawn in sharpie is where the support bar that will be welded to the piece of steel and main hoop will go. Also notice the spacer I have by the power window. There must be about 3/4"space between the bar and the rear door panel for when the belt attaches to the triangular piece referenced above because the belt sticks out about 3/4" on each side.



This is what is directly under the armrest. This tress support pic is the passenger side with the front of the car to the left. The main hoop will go just to the left of this and then through the floor board to the frame. You can see there is just enough room for the bar there and no way to go slightly forward or slightly back. That is the one and only spot the bar can go assuming you're going through the armrest and you don't plan on cutting or notching this tress support. I originally wanted the bar to be more towards the rear of the car which would have required cutting this. Decided not to for a few reasons - first it is some serious metal so you better have a beast of a saw, second not really sure of the negatives for cutting it, and third I found out later - if you go any further back you will go outside the NHRA requirement for the rear bar that it can only be 6" behind the back of the helmet of the driver when sitting in the drivers seat. I'm right at about 5 3/4" where it is now. Again even though this won't be 100% NHRA correct because the rear bar and down bars are removable, I'm trying to make it as close as possible on everything else. If nothing else going by most of the rules and guidelines should make for a safer ride. Obviously all those rules are there to provide the most protection possible.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/10/truss20brace20close20up207120conv_zps1kx-1.jpg (http://s303.photobucket.com/user/jl71442/media/truss%20brace%20close%20up%2071%20conv_zps1kxfbcme .jpg.html)

[71OLDS]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/11/IMG_1387_zps1jojmisx-1.jpg (http://s303.photobucket.com/user/jl71442/media/IMG_1387_zps1jojmisx.jpg.html)

Made a little more progress here. Started by getting rid of the massive "elbows" sticking out with the PVC pipe 45 degree bends. It just was way off on how it's going to be with a bar bend so I used duct tape and cutting to try to get it as close to a "curve" as I could. This also allowed me to get better placement/fit around and under the convertible top for when the real bars go in. Then I wanted to figure out how I was going to do the roll bar padding and cover. Found a company with the foam that would go around the bars (for street driving) and got some factory original vinyl to go around that. Unfortunately the bend with the duct tape and pvc pipe is still too "sharp" of a turn for the padding and material to go around without bending up so had to duct tape around the corners. Looks fugly still but again just getting a better and better idea on how the finished product will look. When all this is redone by a professional interior shop it should look really clean. Last I started off with everything being white and hated the way it looked so painted the vinyl black and like it MUCH better. I will just order the factory original black vinyl to go around the final product and have it secured around the padding with either velcro or snaps. I need everything to be removable for track days so I can replace all this covering with the correct NHRA approved padding.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/11/IMG_1389_zpscomdyxfr-1.jpg (http://s303.photobucket.com/user/jl71442/media/IMG_1389_zpscomdyxfr.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/11/IMG_1391_zpsoidebdwv-1.jpg (http://s303.photobucket.com/user/jl71442/media/IMG_1391_zpsoidebdwv.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/11/IMG_1395_zpsexs38rbu-1.jpg (http://s303.photobucket.com/user/jl71442/media/IMG_1395_zpsexs38rbu.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/11/IMG_1398_zpssbuweptl-1.jpg (http://s303.photobucket.com/user/jl71442/media/IMG_1398_zpssbuweptl.jpg.html)

- - - Updated - - -

Really happy with how the shoulder harness belts came out:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/11/IMG_1396_zpsru2rradk-1.jpg (http://s303.photobucket.com/user/jl71442/media/IMG_1396_zpsru2rradk.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/11/95202db5b81848c8b3993fbcebce1f4f_zpsmcob-1.jpg (http://s303.photobucket.com/user/jl71442/media/95202db5-b818-48c8-b399-3fbcebce1f4f_zpsmcobqkpm.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/11/6c9a5e22fb184632a9ea019003cd4f0c_zpslaw3-1.jpg (http://s303.photobucket.com/user/jl71442/media/6c9a5e22-fb18-4632-a9ea-019003cd4f0c_zpslaw3ajkh.jpg.html)

[71OLDS]

I had Legendary make me a custom rear vinyl piece with the correct pearl white and 71 wood grain to go over the new armrest area that now houses/hides parts of the bars and belts. I just taped it in place to see how it looks but again once a professional interior person does this for me I think it will look great. I also got a roll of just the pearl white vinyl material to cover the other areas.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/11/8c9930a140af4d10a9efc05c2cff5a53_zpsvhkj-1.jpg (http://s303.photobucket.com/user/jl71442/media/8c9930a1-40af-4d10-a9ef-c05c2cff5a53_zpsvhkji6lw.jpg.html)

[ah64pilot]

Tag...love your car Joe!

Looking forward to seeing it "finished"...

- Another Cutlass owner (Stephen)

[71OLDS]

Tag...love your car Joe!

Looking forward to seeing it "finished"...

- Another Cutlass owner (Stephen)

Thanks Stephen. I'm looking forward seeing it finished too!! Hoping 6 speed and rollbar will be done early next year, then I can get the paint and body work done before summer. We'll see.

I think I know you're Supreme too. Is it grey or silver? I remember one of your build threads on one of the sites a while back. Very nice car you've go there too!!

[ah64pilot]

Thanks Stephen. I'm looking forward seeing it finished too!! Hoping 6 speed and rollbar will be done early next year, then I can get the paint and body work done before summer. We'll see.

I think I know you're Supreme too. Is it grey or silver? I remember one of your build threads on one of the sites a while back. Very nice car you've go there too!!
Yep that's it! Posted a build thread in update section although I won't be going into detail like I did over at CO. Titled Wild Bill - 1972 Cutlass Supreme.

So if I might ask, I've got Global West tubular control arms up front that are made for coil springs. I was thinking about a 2" drop spring from BMR but now I'm thinking maybe just a 1" drop spring and a 1" drop spindle. Have you noticed any undesirable effects going with the drop spindle? I ordered 18x8.5" wheels up front with a 26x10" tire, measured ok but that was before drop. Little worried it might rub if I do this the wrong way.

[71OLDS]

Oh yeah I see your post now. That's the car I remember. Very nice. I'm extremely partial to the 70 -72 Supreme body style...convertible or hard top. Very nice job w/yours. Glad to hear you're converting to pro-touring. I love driving mine hard in corners or straights!!

To answer your questions - The B-body spindle I went with was more about improving the stock geometry than lowering the car. The stock spindle geometry of our car is like this \ / from a front view meaning the car is in a "leaning" geometry to start with. The stiffer springs and sway bar help so you lean less but if you go too stiff you will really start to hurt your launch from a stop (for track or street straight line racing). The b-body spindles change the geometry to this / \ so now your car is in an "anti-lean" geometry and going with the springs and sway bar help that even more but you don't have to go as crazy with it to still be able to corner well even with our heavy cars. Of course you will also need the quick ratio steering box, high end shocks (adjustable even better) and the wider wheels and tires all around. For the record my spindles lowered the front by .75" pushed out the front wheels by .625" so the backspace has to be adjusted accordingly on the rims to account for that push-out. Just make sure you don't buy your rims then add the spindles after the fact because it could cause an issue with the fit.

{UPDATE - I would NOT suggest the B-body spindles - although everything above is mostly correct for the suspension geometry the issue is the problems caused by the B-body spindles for the steering geometry - I have now been educated on the issues here and I what I thought was problems with my steering box is actually the problems the B-body spindles are causing me. I will be replacing the Bbody spindles and upper control arms w/the AFX spindle kit from SC&C and getting a new Lee 800 box as well. Unfortuantely I will also be required to swap the front brake system from my current Baer 13" Track setup to Baer 13" GT kit for the AFX spindles}

I am still working out all "bugs" if you will with my suspension so I can't fully and properly answer your question about "undesirable effects". My AGR steering box is now 12 years old and is having issues so I need to replace that and I converted to a coil over setup and went with 500 springs but they are just too soft for me. Awesome for launching with my 305/45/18 drag radials but I want to go a little stiffer (600) and I'm hoping with that and the new steering box I'll be right where I want to be. I have QA1 adjustable shocks that I have set on #8 setting now for better corners with the 500 springs but I'm hoping with the 600 spring and a #6 setting I'll be able to have my cake and eat it too on the street for decent launching and corners. The for the track I change the shocks to #1 and remove the front sway bar.

My front rims are 18x8 w/a 255/45/18 Nitto 555 tire. It's 27.1" tall and I honesty don't think I could fit more tire in there and still turn lock to lock without rubbing. Also I have 28.78 tires in the rear and have the car sitting (stance) so the top of the wheel well is about an inch below the top of the tire. That's the way I like it and I can't go any lower without issues turning lock to lock going in and out of entrance ways/driveways etc. Also because my tires are taller my headers are still about 5" off the ground at the lowest point so I can even go over speed bumps if I have to. The reason I'm telling you all this is because there's no way a 26" tall tire would work for my set up. I'd either have a big gap above the tire below the wheel well or very little ground clearance. My 255/45/18 has a 10.1" section with too so I think you will be fine there if you find the sweet spot with the BS on that rim.

I'm guessing if you go with the 2" drop you will have ground clearance issues and if you go with the 1" drop you will have a gap above the tire. I really think you need a taller tire to get the stance right and the clearance right but that's just been my experience with the shorter tires. Hopefully you can figure out a way to make it work.

-Joe

[Lickity Split]

I love your seat belts! Do you think that area would be suitable for seat belts without the roll bar? I really like the stock look but I don't plan on putting a cage in.

[71OLDS]

I love your seat belts! Do you think that area would be suitable for seat belts without the roll bar? I really like the stock look but I don't plan on putting a cage in.

I'm sure you could close in that area the same way w/o the roll bar sticking out but would have to find a way to secure the belts. One note the 2004 Nissan 350 Z convertible belts I used were $500. You can get standard 3 pt belts for much cheaper but not sure how they would "set up" in that location. I used these belts because that's the car my wife drives so I had a sample to copy from. It turned out to be much different than I thought (as far as location, where I bolt them down - top and bottom, and how they function) but after lots of trial and error I got it all figured out. You could probably do the same with belts at 1/2 the cost but I would guess many things would be different from my set up.

-Joe

[71OLDS]

The wifey asked me to mock it up w/o the down bars (main hoop and shoulder harness only)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/11/IMG_1408_zps5c2vh8ti-1.jpg (http://s303.photobucket.com/user/jl71442/media/IMG_1408_zps5c2vh8ti.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/11/IMG_1410_zpspixlmahx-1.jpg (http://s303.photobucket.com/user/jl71442/media/IMG_1410_zpspixlmahx.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/11/IMG_1412_zpsdt7ieko3-1.jpg (http://s303.photobucket.com/user/jl71442/media/IMG_1412_zpsdt7ieko3.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/11/IMG_1413_zpsdulgrw98-1.jpg (http://s303.photobucket.com/user/jl71442/media/IMG_1413_zpsdulgrw98.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/11/IMG_1416_zps0dcuns8c-1.jpg (http://s303.photobucket.com/user/jl71442/media/IMG_1416_zps0dcuns8c.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/11/bbb3eb5ad87e4a1fbbeba368665d4fdf_zpspvmm-1.jpg (http://s303.photobucket.com/user/jl71442/media/bbb3eb5a-d87e-4a1f-bbeb-a368665d4fdf_zpspvmmsxwc.jpg.html)

Then she brought up some good points. With just the main hoop welded to the frame I still get rollover protection and the new use of the shoulder harness w/o giving up the back seat. We do take friends and family on cruises around the beach or even longer drives. Of course they can still ride in the back w/the down bars but they would have to "adjust" around the bar and of course if I got into a bad wreck I understand the bars back there would put them at risk for head injury. Also with the additional hidden support bar I will have that goes from the main hoop to the steel brace technically the setup will still be a 4 pt even w/o the visible down bars. This bar will be welded to the main hoop and then to the steel brace seen in the 2nd pic just above the conv top cylinder:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/11/7193f0d6332a43cfbded07d593c4af93_zps3z8l-1.jpg (http://s303.photobucket.com/user/jl71442/media/7193f0d6-332a-43cf-bded-07d593c4af93_zps3z8l1pgq.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/11/2979_4_zpsg3nerprv-1.jpg (http://s303.photobucket.com/user/jl71442/media/2979_4_zpsg3nerprv.jpg.html)

I think she brings up some good points here. Of course the negative is without the down bars, cross bars, door bars, and 5 pt harness, I'll be limited to the 1/8 mile track only. I thought about having the down bars be removable but the part that would have to stick out on the main hoop about 2" just looks terrible. Plus it would stick out far enough to still cause possible head injury for back seat passengers if there was a bad wreck. So for the downbars it is either yes or no. My removable idea didn't work there. The cross bar can be removable but of course that is not NHRA legal so not sure if I could get by at a track w/that anyway. The door bars can easily be added later and can be removable so I'm not as worried about them.

I'm leaning towards starting with just this setup (main hoop, support bar, & shoulder belts) and sticking w/the 1/8 mile track for now. I can always add the other bars later pretty easily. I think it would make the car more like some of the factory installed roll bars in convertibles like these below but I would also have the shoulder belts:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/11/mump_0503_08_z1967_shelby_gt500convertib-1.jpg (http://s303.photobucket.com/user/jl71442/media/mump_0503_08_z1967_shelby_gt500convertible_roll_ba r_zps891eo1ip.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/11/531134_17464932_1966_Shelby_GT350_zps9cx-1.jpg (http://s303.photobucket.com/user/jl71442/media/531134_17464932_1966_Shelby_GT350_zps9cx1gows.jpg. html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/11/53516d06627dd_zpsepn4azos-1.jpg (http://s303.photobucket.com/user/jl71442/media/53516d06627dd_zpsepn4azos.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/11/53516cfc53e88_zps9qgxzfvr-1.jpg (http://s303.photobucket.com/user/jl71442/media/53516cfc53e88_zps9qgxzfvr.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/11/531134_17464929_1966_Shelby_GT350_zpsrbj-1.jpg (http://s303.photobucket.com/user/jl71442/media/531134_17464929_1966_Shelby_GT350_zpsrbjjxv7v.jpg. html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/11/53516d031b2f7_zpsoyeuwcwa-1.jpg (http://s303.photobucket.com/user/jl71442/media/53516d031b2f7_zpsoyeuwcwa.jpg.html)

[71OLDS]

Finally stepped up and ordered the 6 speed today:
Magnum TR6060 6 speed (2.66, 1.78,1.30,1.00, .8, .63) should be arriving at the shop next week sometime. Next I need to get the car on a flat bed from VA to MD. Frank will be doing several projects this round including:
1. 6 speed install
2. swapping out 3.31 gears for 4.10 - going to keep the 3.31s in case I need to put them back in down the road if and when the motor is upgraded.
3. converting over to hyd clutch - going with the American powertrain one
4. adding an oil cooler
5. adding an electric fuel pump to help with vapor lock and the manual pump losing it's prime. Electric pump will only be used for these issues not run all the time.
6. Removing B-body spindles and replacing with AFX aluminum spindles - will also include swapping out upper control arms and front rotors so everything is compatible - going with the full SC&C kit. As well as a new Lee 800 steering box to replace my 12 year old leaking AGR box.
7. going from 500 front coil over springs to 600 - will keep 500s in case I need/want to put them back in down the road but they are just a little too soft for my liking on the street. Great for launching not so great for corners.
8. Roll bar - full permanent 4 pt (main hoop and down bars) with built in shoulder harness front seat belts from a 2004 Nissan 350z convertible. The belts and part of the roll bar will be hidden in a custom enclosure built into where the armrest is right now in the rear seats. The cross bar and the door bars will be removable and only added for track days. I understand the crossbar can't be removable per NHRA guidelines but I'm doing it anyway. Will have 4 pt bars fully padded and back seat passengers will ride at their own risk. There will be room for 2 in the back still or even 3 if the 2 on the outside can live with the down bar pad against their ribs.

[71OLDS]

Another update - Just purchased:

**Street comp AFX spindle kit from SC&C that includes the forged aluminum AFX tall spindle with C7 Corvette hub and bearing pack, stock A body steering arms, and adjustable upper controls arms - will be going with the "aggressive street" settings/alignment.

**Baer GT 13" GT rotors that are compatible with the AFX Spindles

**Lee 800 steering box 12.7:1 at 1275 psi to match my hydroboost and current pump

**SC&C heavy duty tubular chassis brace to help "triangulate" the front frame horns to improve steering response and chassis stiffness - this was a must with my convertible and the entire front end being fiberglass (fenders, bumper, and hood) - needed something for additional support. The frame and glass panels deflect and move too much right now plus the steering box is just hanging out there imparting all it's steering load on just one frame rail. This chassis brace will eliminate all these issues.

My B-body spindles, Baer 13" track rotors, Hotchkis B-body compatible upper control arms, and my 12 year old leaking AGR steering box will all be coming off.

[71OLDS]

Nothing but frustrating delays on everything. Front end parts and 6 speed trans were both ordered 7 weeks ago. Tremec stopped making the Magnum 2.66 6 speed for 5 weeks so mine finally shipped today. Then I got an update from SC&C that the company that makes the aluminum AFX spindles won't have another run of them completed until end of April at the earliest which means they won't be assembled and to me until May/June time frame. Unfortunately the B-body spindles will have to go back on for now until these spindles are finally ready.

[71OLDS]

Finally some positive news and progress. The Magnum 6 speed arrived at the shop today. Also Mark at SC&C had a customer change plans and return a set of AFX spindles that will be arriving at the shop next week. So I don't have to wait until May/June now on anything but the aluminum steering arm. Will go with the stock steering arm until the aluminum ones are made with the AFX spindles. Will still have the bumpsteer unfortunately until the steering arms are swapped out but at least I will have the AFX spindles installed and the new GT 13" rotors.

The car has been stripped down in preparation for the trans and the 4.10 gears have already been installed. Also had Frank shorten up the battery shut off switch that stuck out way too far in the "on" position. Here are a few pics. Hoping to have lots more over the coming weeks as the progress happens.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/03/output_zpsh11zrdgx-1.jpg (http://s303.photobucket.com/user/jl71442/media/output_zpsh11zrdgx.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/03/20170316_152522_zpsklkqwi7f-1.jpg (http://s303.photobucket.com/user/jl71442/media/20170316_152522_zpsklkqwi7f.jpg.html)

[71OLDS]

Another delay/issue - American Powertrain sent the wrong bell housing for the Magnum 6 speed so have to order the correct one. Also hoping Frank can work his magic and swap out the shifter handle that came with the 6 speed (it's rounded instead of a rectangle like the originals were) with a late 60's Hurst "442" handle like this one:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/03/qPLBC2p-1.jpg

I'm sure there will be several challenges to make it work on the 6 speed trans but also fit into the new hole and fit and shift through all 6 gears without hitting on the factory 4 speed console. Like my 5 speed did:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/03/IMG_1108_zpsqyinyezt-1.jpg (http://s303.photobucket.com/user/jl71442/media/IMG_1108_zpsqyinyezt.jpg.html)

Brian Trick has one of these shifter handles I can buy from him so fingers are crossed. I know the "Hurst" is the correct shifter handle for my 71 442 (used that on my 5 speed you can see it in the pic) but I have always loved that "442" one.

[71OLDS]

Some good news and some bad - the good news is the aluminum steering arms are available now and will be sent to the shop with my new aluminum spindles. Now everything can be installed this go round instead of installing stock steering arms temporarily so really happy about that.

Not so good is how the McLeod street twin looks.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/03/PouraLP-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/03/TQ6yMjO-1.jpg

Lots of nasty black spots from heat caused most likely by disks dragging or improper shimming or throwout bearing not getting proper travel out for full release. Whatever caused it going to have to send the entire kit back to McLeod to be serviced - Service includes surfacing the flywheel, surface or replace floater, new disc facings, and rebuild the pressure plate. Then put it back together and shim it properly and check for engagement and release.

[andrewb70]

Four ten gears might be fun, but there is a significant increase in driveshaft speed, which can definitely cause some driveline vibrations. I don't know your exact tire size, but I suspect the driveshaft will be spinning close to 4000RPM at 75mph, which is pretty fast...

Andrew

[71OLDS]

Four ten gears might be fun, but there is a significant increase in driveshaft speed, which can definitely cause some driveline vibrations. I don't know your exact tire size, but I suspect the driveshaft will be spinning close to 4000RPM at 75mph, which is pretty fast...

Andrew

Hi Andrew - running almost 29" rear tires (Nitto 305 45 18 drag radials) I chose the 4.10 for several reasons. I had it all broken down in an earlier post but pasted it below again. Bottom line is our 4000 lbs cars like a launch factor of between 10-11 for the least amount of spin/bog plus at my shift point of around 6000 RPM the #s work great for 1/8 mile and 1/4 mile to be in a good RPM range when I cross the traps. Last is the hwy RPMs as shown. Honestly I'm not worried about the driveshaft RPM as long as there's no vibration. Driveshaft comes with the American Powertrain kit with the 6 speed and seems like a high end piece so I would be really surprised if there are any issues. I will certainly update on this thread if so with all results good or bad.

Here's what the #s will look like with the new trans and rear:

Magnum TR6060 6 speed (2.66, 1.78,1.30,1.00, .8, .63)

W: 4.10 gears & 305/45/18 Nitto DRs:

{28.78” tire}
1st = 4.10*2.66= 10.91 launch multiplier/ 2nd =4.10* 1.78 = 7.30 /3rd =4.10*1.30=5.33 4th =4.10*1.00=4.10
Shift points:
1-2 47 mph 6000 RPM (RPM drop to 4000 67%)
2-3 70 mph 6000 RPM (RPM drop to 4400 73%)
3-4 96 mph 1/8th mile 6000 RPM (RPM drop to 4600 77%)
Cross traps for 1/4 mile at approx.: 117 mph = 5600 RPM (in 4th gear) w/current motor
125 mph =6000 RPM (in 4th gear) - room to grow (future stroker motor 650/650)

POWER RANGE = 4000 – 6000 (2000 RPM Power band)

2300 RPM = 60 MPH in 5th and 76 mph in 6th
65 mph in 5th gear @ 2500 RPM (W/28.78”)
70 mph in 6th gear @ 2100 RPM (W/28.78”)
75 mph in 6th gear @ 2263 RPM (W/28.78”)
80 mph in 6th gear @ 2413 RPM (W/28.78”)
150 mph in 6th gear @ 4525 RPM (W/28.78”)

[71OLDS]

Lee 800 steering box and new chassis brace are on:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/03/Y54OgRN-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/03/VpijkXr-1.jpg

[71OLDS]

AFX spindles, steering arms, upper control arms, and GT rotors are installed:


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/04/7kVsCHa-1.jpg

[71OLDS]

Finally a little progress - 6 speed install is coming along - slowly but surely:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/04/Xk9ZX8a-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/04/ZnliK12-1.jpg

Oil cooler is installed:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/04/TEoSgsI-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/04/cv0unja-1.jpg
Got the old Hooker SC 1 7/8 headers coated:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/04/8sd2vCv-1.jpg
Switching back to my Holley 830 carb from the 770 street avenger:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/04/C2elhUn-1.jpg

[badolds]

Very nice car and build thread here. I appreciate your wheel and tire help in my thread.

Dan

[71OLDS]

Thanks Dan - right back at you and glad to help!

-Joe

[71OLDS]

Haven't posted in a while - almost ready to buy and try the "442" shifter handle. The nice thing is the Magnum 6 speed that came from American Powertrain lines up really close to fit the stock 4 speed console pretty well - at least from the "eye ball" test at this point. We'll see how much "tweaking" is needed when we get that far along.

One of the latest challenges have been with the new hydraulic clutch setup - mostly because of my clutch pedal. Long story but once the hydraulic clutch was set up to spec per American Powertrain, the clutch pedal was way too hard. Apparently the spec for a stock 68-72 GM A body didn't work for my car. But....it turns out I may not have a "stock" clutch pedal. At any rate after lots of tweaking I think it's finally dialed in as it should be.

The other issue is the oil cooler. The oil filter relocater had to be moved from being horizontal to vertical - with it horizontal it wouldn't catch the oil from the filter. With it vertical it will catch the oil and not make a huge mess!!

Hoping to start on the roll bar next week - huge custom project for it with my shoulder harness belts and everything else on my "wish list" that I mocked up with the pvc pipes. Frank and team have their work cut out for them on this project. - will add pics when I have some.

[Jeff70]

Sorry if I missed it but what clutch set up did you go with? Are you using a reproduction console?


Jeff

[71OLDS]

Sorry if I missed it but what clutch set up did you go with? Are you using a reproduction console?


Jeff

Actually I don't think I ever posted it. Looked at the powertrain and McLeod Hyd clutch kits - went with the powertrain. I figured it would be easier to only have one place to use for support for both the trans and clutch. If anything didn't work together they couldn't blame it on the other company. Here's the link with pics, details, and even a video: http://americanpowertrain.com/i-8521628-hydramax-hydraulic-clutch-actuator-system-for-magnum-ls-t56-viper-t56.html

Going with the stock 4 speed console.

[71OLDS]

A few new updates and pics. First I was worried the new 600 lb front springs wouldn't let the car lower down enough in the front where I like it. Happy to see it's now "settled" back down:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/06/BFjMJit-1.jpg?1

Hyd clutch and clutch pedal issues are much better now. Clutch pedal is not as "soft" as I hoped it would be but a little softer then the manual, Z bar set up. Plus it is consistent from the floor to release which I like. Was able to shift through the gears and I'm blown away with how short and crisp it is from gear to gear vs. my Richmond 5 speed. Can't wait to drive the car. Still waiting on the custom metal piece to go over the top of the trans in the interior to be finished. Here's a pic of the hyd clutch reservoir and the trans from inside the car with the Big F'ng hole cut out:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/06/dnxJMsD-1.jpg?1

I hate the shifter handle that came with the American Powertrain kit. Can't wait to swap it out for this one:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/06/qPLBC2p-1.jpg

[71OLDS]

The oil filter relocater has been moved from horizontal:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/04/cv0unja-1.jpg

to vertical:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/06/E9UceVg-1.jpg?1

[71OLDS]

The chromoly tubing has been ordered for the roll bar. Decided to add 2 small angled bars from the main hoop down to the floor board for some additional support. Will still allow back seat passengers even with these installed but it might be against the outside of the rear passenger's calf. Frank has it on one of his cars so you can see what I'm referring to:

passenger side:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/06/Et3TH7k-1.jpg?1

driver's side:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/06/E9VMwSr-1.jpg?1

Crude drawing but shows design of roll bar. White areas will be removable:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/09/IUTWyw3-1.jpg

door bars will be similar to this old Joe Mondello car - that big bend allows it to pass between shoulder and elbow but also as you can just barely see on the drivers door you don't have to move or modify the arm rests:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[71OLDS]

slowly but surely transferring all my photobucket pics over to a new 3rd party host site. What a frustrating waste of time. Can't believe photobucket went from zero to $400/year to host pics. For that much it's totally worth my time to switch all my pics - hundreds of them!! Oh well.

In the meantime - here's a new update I'm sure most could care less about but I'm pretty excited. I had gone with the fiberglass decklid years ago but even with the wing mounted, it's still so light that when you open the trunk it "flies" open way too fast and seems like it could rip right off the hinges. Also I have the factory power trunk button in the glove box but couldn't use it anymore...for the same reason....plus I have a key fab alarm system that COULD have the power trunk added but couldn't do any of this with the super light glass decklid. The only option was to add some type of "shock" to make the trunk open slowly. Additionally I have a requirement to be able to fit my golf bag in the trunk so any shocks that were added couldn't block the space. So...here's the end result. Really happy with this. You have to look close to see the 2 shock mounts on either side. Next the factory power trunk button in the trunk will be hooked back up and will have the power trunk added on the key fab.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B5iHM-Ujx7I

The trunk is fully enclosed and nicely done when the enclosure pieces are "installed". Everything is removed now so the sub, battery amps etc are all exposed. Will have to notch the enclosure pieces in 2 places to accommodate the new shocks but will look nice and clean again when it's all done.

close up pic of one of the shocks to show how and where it was installed:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/TYy4QfB-1.jpg

[71OLDS]

Having a front spoiler similar to this one installed:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/unNBIiP-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/5SRPdeu-1.jpg

I got the glass part years ago with the glass front bumper but need it secured/supported for speeds up to 150 mph. Frank and team are working on a plan to get it squared away.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/NNsvXxQ-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/07/oLEol94-1.jpg

[Mr Nick]

Your images are not working for me.

[deejai35]

I like the trunk action. I hadn't thought about the weight savings there. I would love to replace the hood and trunk with carbon fiber, but I haven't found any available. I did research a company at one point that would produce a hood based on an example. I believe the minimum order was 10 units and price was between $1000 to $1500 each.

[71OLDS]

I like the trunk action. I hadn't thought about the weight savings there. I would love to replace the hood and trunk with carbon fiber, but I haven't found any available. I did research a company at one point that would produce a hood based on an example. I believe the minimum order was 10 units and price was between $1000 to $1500 each.

I'm sure Carbon Fiber parts would be lighter and stronger than the fiberglass parts but I'm guessing they will be more expensive and not sure how painting them would turn out.....but for me I have a long way to go to get these glass parts how I want. Slowly but surely getting things how I want.


Your images are not working for me.

Hi Nick - yeah pics were down with the new snapchat hosting company I used - not sure why but they appear to be back now. Hopefully it stays that way but we'll see.

-Joe

[71OLDS]

New tunnel is getting there:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/EgDB6WU-1.jpg

[71OLDS]

Looks like console is going to work without any serious mods. Really happy about that!!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/CfTz5at-1.jpg

[71OLDS]

The new UMI rear sway bar that works with the relocation brackets (part #4012) is now installed. The sway bar is Part #: 4047-XXX - this is the 1" pro tour chassis mounted bar. The standard Hothkis bar hung way too low with the relocation brackets so I had to move to a chassis mounted one. A nice feature with this bar is it's adjustable - choose the "longest" hole for street, middle hole for auto-x, road race and the shortest hole for drag use.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/7nZG5nF-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/Yh6GGX0-1.jpg

Here's a close up of the relocation bracket - you can see where the old Hotchkis bar mounted:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/yzCYNEB-1.jpg

...and you can see here how far down the old bar hung-just not going to work - had to switch the a chassis mount bar:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/zwkJ82n-1.jpg

[badolds]

I hope you get your pictures working, I would like to see your progress.

Dan

[71OLDS]

I hope you get your pictures working, I would like to see your progress.

Dan

You can't see my recent pics? I thought I had them all set. The earlier ones I need to update one at a time.

[badolds]

I can see the top two pictures in post 220, the rest are all blank. This photobucket deal sucks.

Dan

[71OLDS]

I can see the top two pictures in post 220, the rest are all blank. This photobucket deal sucks.

Dan

interesting - I'm using Google pics now but I wonder if it only works/shows if you use Google Chrome. Do you log on with Internet Explorer or some other browser? If so and you're able could you try logging in via Google Chrome and let me know if all the pics come up?

Thanks!
-Joe

[badolds]

I was using Edge which is the newest internet explorer this morning at home. I am at work using chrome on an older desktop and none of the pictures are showing up here, not even post 220.

Dan

[71OLDS]

I was using Edge which is the newest internet explorer this morning at home. I am at work using chrome on an older desktop and none of the pictures are showing up here, not even post 220.

Dan

OK thanks for letting me know. I'll get all the pics added and updated at some point - such a waste of time. I guess photobucket has a point if all these other hosting sites either don't work or don't show up etc. I have a 3rd one I'm going to try but it will be a week or two until I spend time to sign up and try again. Found a guy on another site that was having the same issues and switched to one that works now. Will try that one next - can't remember what it was but apparently snapchat and google pics don't work. Just like these car projects - sometimes you have to find out what doesn't work first!!

[71OLDS]

OK 3rd img hosting site I'm trying here. This one is IMGUR - saw some others had success with this site after leaving photo bucket. If anyone can't see the pics below please let me know.

New trans tunnel for Magnum 6 speed is completed - now just need to paint and dynomat:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/QPjzsGE-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/08/RMxC4Rs-1.jpg

[Jeff70]

I see em. Looking good.

[71OLDS]

I see em. Looking good.

Thanks Jeff - hopefully Dan does too since I know he couldn't before - if so I'll start the lengthy process of moving all the pics over (for the 3rd time) and one by one try to update this entire 12 page post as well as all the others out there.

[badolds]

I can see the pictures. I have been busy with Hurricane Harvey here in Houston. My house is high and dry but my business got six inches of water.

Dan

[71OLDS]

I can see the pictures. I have been busy with Hurricane Harvey here in Houston. My house is high and dry but my business got six inches of water.

Dan

Oh wow - thanks Dan - Glad to hear your house is safe but sorry about your business. Hang in there!! Thoughts are with you and everyone in the Houston area until this craziness ends.

-Joe

[71OLDS]

Unfortunately - another delay - the old dynomat came up. Can't believe how bad the floors are underneath. Passenger side will have to be replaced:

Driver's side:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/09/Nr78U8Q-1.jpg
Passenger side:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/09/jFfLwME-1.jpg

[Jeff70]

Did the Dynamat hold the moisture?

[71OLDS]

Did the Dynamat hold the moisture?

must have - these floors were in perfect condition when the dynomat went down - it was 10 years ago but car was garage kept entire time. Street driven but rarely in rain and never in snow. Very strange.

[Jeff70]

Damn! And I recently noticed some water on my passenger floor board after I washed mine, I have no idea where it's coming from. I also have Dynamat throughout the interior.

[71OLDS]

Damn! And I recently noticed some water on my passenger floor board after I washed mine, I have no idea where it's coming from. I also have Dynamat throughout the interior.

Yeah I think that's pretty normal on our old cars - especially on convertibles like mine. One strange spot that may be your issue actually comes through the cowl, leaks down the passenger side kick panel area, and ends up on the floor board. This could be happening every time you wash the car or drive in rain. That's probably what happened with mine too. I had no idea Dynamat trapped water = rust multiplier but maybe that's the case. Not sure what to do about this other than tearing up and replacing the dynamat every other year or so - especially in that passenger side area. Keep in mind as I mentioned what you see represents about 10 years of that dynamat never coming up. Have to have that metal replaced on the passenger side, clean up the drivers side, then POR15 everything, paint, then dynamat and re-carpet. Of course if you can find a way to stop the cowl leak that would be huge. It starts just behind the hood then works its way inside the car. I'm not sure why or the best way to fix this but maybe others have some suggestions.

[wfo guy]

Holy moly! 1 more thing to be concerned with.

[71OLDS]

Finally getting started on the chromoly roll bar

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/09/eSajNRD-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/09/9DA9pR1-1.jpg

[71OLDS]

Looks ugly right now but making good progress on the shoulder harness belt set up/door bar connector. Once it's all completed will have all the interior work done around the bar and shoulder harness by a professional so it doesn't look like a$$ but for now just worried about getting it all done correctly and in the right locations so everything works as it should.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/09/7QQwOCZ-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/09/u2xRXwq-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/09/VNRKH5i-1.jpg

this was my mock up we are trying to match:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/09/YE5lh5P-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/09/dAdluwP-1.jpg

got my idea for the set up from this mustang:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/09/DelVUSM-1.jpg

[badolds]

Getting it done, looks good. That sucks about the rust on the floorboards. The fun never ends.

Dan

[71OLDS]

Getting it done, looks good. That sucks about the rust on the floorboards. The fun never ends.

Dan

Thanks Dan and you're right on the fun never ending. The only positive is I'm getting all the floor work done at the same time, new metal to replace the rusted part, plus all the work for the roll bar and bracing/brackets for the new seat belt/shoulder harness setup. Then the floors can be POR 15'd, touched up with the original paint code 43 lime green, re-dynomatted, and carpeted. All kinds of "might as wells" and new discoveries to be worked on like just about every project on our cars. The good thing is nothing surprises me any more!! :)

[badolds]

I wish we lived closer together, we would definitely have to line em up.

Dan

[71OLDS]

Maybe we can find an event or track to meet at some day. If I ever get the car done I'm hoping to do lots of events - 1/4 mile, 1/8 mile, cruising/touring events, and some of these autocross events like the one UMI just had in PA last month. Was hoping the car would be done and ready for that but it just didn't happen. I'm really looking forward to testing out all the suspension upgrades (new AFX spindles, new steering box, & new chassis brace) Of course I still have all the body work to do so will have to decide if I try to drive it through the winter "as-is" here in Virginia Beach or make some progress on all the body work projects...we'll see.

[71OLDS]

Lots of progress on the roll bar today:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/09/lSrMrtp-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/09/ySZAgaA-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/09/5urtY4i-1.jpg
removable crossbar and downbars:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/09/m0JjAsy-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/09/Yx0cwDI-1.jpg
close up of shoulder harness belt and pic of crossbar disconnected:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/09/JUVkIIr-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/09/Ea3qhWG-1.jpg
Close up of belt at the bottom - Frank did an amazing job of adding a plate and a custom bracket for the lower belt to bolt to:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/09/7suhSdc-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/09/cLeq6aG-1.jpg

[71OLDS]

Had to change the door bar plans. Since the door bars can NOT be "swing out" because they mount too far behind the door opening (so the mount will also work with the shoulder belt when the door bars are not installed), had to make the bar straight instead of having the big bend in the middle. The positive is it looks much better than having the bend in my opinion. The negative is the arm rests have to be removed every time the door bars are installed. The reason the big bend didn't work (which would have eliminated the need to remove the arm rest every time) is I couldn't get in and out of the car with the door bar installed with that big bend and it not being "swing out".

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/10/k9kkhAZ-1.jpg

[71OLDS]

A few new updates - rusted passenger side floor board has been replaced and passenger side door bar is in:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/na62uz7-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/N7gH5G9-1.jpg

Driver's side

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/3vdRpfa-1.jpg

- - - Updated - - -

Dynamat added:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/3Og4pDU-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/GbZWtO7-1.jpg

[71OLDS]

Most will be like WTF is this but adding it anyway - the battery shut off switch allows anyone to shut off my car alarm so a pin has been added to prevent shut off when it's in place:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/4Vz3nN9-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/5oMQovL-1.jpg

this is the shut off switch I'm referring to:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/04/uEabHqB-1.jpg

[71OLDS]

racing harness tabs added:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/KuwW69U-1.jpg
hood light and windshield squirters added:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/j4tmSrr-1.jpg
the "442" shifter handle is not going to work "as-is" will need to be shortened and rebent:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/SxP3G8u-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/RnpJeB5-1.jpg

[badolds]

I figured I would give you a reply, It seems like I am talking to myself on here sometimes lol.

Dan

[71OLDS]

I figured I would give you a reply, It seems like I am talking to myself on here sometimes lol.

Dan

Thanks Dan and I hear you. It's OK at least I have a good place to show/store the pics and provide a timeline for the progress and updates.