1971 Firebird455 - Project

[LeighP]

Someone in another thread suggested I post up about my project car.....so here goes -
Picked up one of my all time favourite cars, a small back window early 2nd generation Firebird (1971). My plans for the car are a pro-touring influenced resto-mod - working to a budget here, so I'm afraid you won't see a lot of the real bling stuff that is available for these cars.
Since I was able to pick up a Formula hood (one of the best looking hood designs of all time) I'm going to externally style the car as a 71 Formula 455. Interior will be clean and simple, black leather, Corvette seats, Trans Am dash with aftermarket guages.
Suspension will be more a refinement of the original system than a whole new approach, with lots of parts from Pro-Touring F-body.com. Additional body/frame bracing, solid body mounts, Koni shocks, 17 inch wheels etc. Brakes are the 1LE late 3rd gen disc conversion for the front with drilled and slotted 12" rotors and a larger diamter GM finned drum set for the rears (yeah, I know...drums...rear discs aren't on my budget list at this stage).

Car is very clean and straight....although I have to undo some work previously started on a RHD conversion (the steering mods are really "something" to see...lol) ....the car will be LHD. I'm in Australia, which explains the right hand drive conversion mess....lol.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
Going to use the Formula hood on the Firebird and hook up the Ram Air.....very cool stuff. :cool:

[LeighP]

Need to take some better pics of the car, I think....this is where and as I found it.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
So far I've pulled off the front sheet metal, cleaned the years of dust off the car and cleaned everything out of it. Its up on stands now in the garage....the underside of the body has been painted gloss black (that'll do....not right for a resto, but OK for me) and the trunk is clean and painted...though I'll have to go over that with trunk spatter paint etc, its been sprayed in a dark metallic purple by some 90's era owner...

[LeighP]

I got into cleaning the fuel tank the other day...since it was sitting on the floor right in my way. About 1/4 inch of undercoating and at least two coats of different red paint....what a mess. Who'd have thought a nice clean tank was hiding underneath? I took it down to get repaired ..the neck has come loose from the tank.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[LeighP]

Finished off the fuel tank this afternoon befoe going to work. I've had the tank down to a radiator shop for a clean out and repair the filler neck which had come loose...they also soldered the vent tubes again just to be sure.
Was going to get it painted professionally, but I'm trying to conserve $ for parts so I thought I'd just clean it up and clear the metal to protect it. Polished the tank with a metal polish paste first, then a fine liquid metal polish and steel wool. Came up pretty clean and nice...can't get a couple of marks off where the tank straps sit, but they'll be covered when its installed. Sprayed with clear coat paint.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
Tested the sender unit, there was a short somewhere. Disassembled it, added a little new insulation and bingo, working sender.
Ordered new rear inertia reel seat belts, but the ones I chose were not really going to work when they turned up and I got a good look at them....so I've re-ordered some others that should work much better. Lucky the parts guy at the local dealer is helpful. 8)

[LeighP]

I've made up a cardboard version of the top backseat belt upper mount for a guy I know to fabricate (I can't weld to save my life, lol)....I need two of them to mount the inertia reels into the rear parcel tray like a late model car (sit down almost flush). I'll have them back next week.
Restored the handbrake mechanism, made up the bottom stud to mount it and redrilled the holes in the firewall where they'd been previously welded up....all mounts nicely. Cleaned up and painted the wiper regulator arms etc...they'd been painted with the awful purple metallic paint that got sprayed over everything attached to the firewall (firewall is now all stripped of parts ready for painting).
Now I'm working on the seat tracks....they were rusted and stuck solid, so I'm in the process of sandblasting, painting and reassembly...hope I get them back together right, lol.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[LeighP]

Ok...so the seat tracks are all done. (Grrrrrrr....deceptively simple things that take hours to get working again after you pull them apart...lol). They were rusted solid, now they're back in the car temporarily so I can make adapter plates to mount the seats.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
I've mocked up a seat roughly in position then sat in it......I estimate it'll give me over an inch of extra head room...which is good, I'm 6'3".
The seats are late 4th gen Corvette seats I picked up off ebay super cheap some time back.....just what I want to hold me in the seat a bit better than the stock ones do.
I'll be working on having these mounted this weekend and then its on to the heater/demister.....none of the stock heater system remains.

[LeighP]

Well, seats are now mounted in the car. I'm very happy with how they've worked out. I've got an extra 2" of head room over the stock seats in my 77 T/A and the seat back measures pretty close to the same distance from the dash as my 77 seat does. In the 77, I've moved the drivers seat back 3". In this car, because the seats are a bit thinner in the back, I've only moved the drivers seat back 2" more than the passenger side seat.....gives me some good leg room. I can tell you though, I'm going to have to go easy on the underlay beneath the seats....I've got them set so low that the seat pan just clears the floor.....maybe just enough room for carpet...lol.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
here you can see the leg room....heaps. :-D
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
next its onto the heater/demister

[LeighP]

Heres the pics of the heater...modified to suit the application. I've cut a couple of the outlets off, sealed up with sheetmetal and urethane adhesive. The pics show how it'll sit in the car...the hose over the top will supply demist air. The top vent on the RH side will supply the passenger dash vent, the lower vent will flow on the passenger footwell. Luckily, I don't need heat on my side...this is mainly to keep the girlfriend happy (heat) and the registration authorities happy (demister). Heater is from some small japanese car, no idea what model, lol. I wasn't going to use the stock system as I've gone for a smooth firewall. (sorry for the out of focus pic...oops)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[LeighP]

As part of the change back to left hand drive I mentioned before, I'm using a 75+ subframe in my 71 model. This means, among other things, that I need to cut some new rear mounts as the yare in a different position on an early car.
I cut the holes this morning in the rear of the chassis for the early body mount locations.
I'm using solid body mounts andI noticed the doubled section of the frame where the two sides overlap forms a high point around the body mount area....this wouldn't matter when using rubber mounts as the rubber would flex around it. Solid mounts have no give, so the lower bush holds the whole bushing assembly at a slight angle, lessening the contact area of the bush with the chassis and also side loading the bolt and body mount nut etc...causing unnecessary loads on the floor and mount. I cut a small rebate into the edge of the lower bushing to allow it to sit straight against the chassis rail.
1. New holes cut
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
2. Incorrectly seated body bushes due to the lower bush sitting on the inner surface of the double section of rail.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
3. Rebate cut into edge of lower bushing
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
4. Correctly seated lower body bushing
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[LeighP]

Car is off next week to the panel shop for some work, and I'm waiting on parts I've got coming from the US.
Just keeping busy doing some cleaning up and painting small parts etc.

[John Wright]

Nice project!..keep up the good progress.

[formula]

leigh!! :cool: didn't realize you were over here! Looks like a great project, sir--keep us updated, I know what you end up cooking up will have that aussie-awesome flair!

[LeighP]

lol...all roads lead to Pro-Touring. :)

[a73formula]

Been watching over on performance years. Good to see another 2nd gen over here.

[LeighP]

Well, car is off to the body shop tomorrow morning. Its down off jack stands and ready to push on the tilt tray.
Plans are -
fix the firewall so its back to left hand drive configuration
repair any rust issues around the front and rear screen
fit the custom rear seat belt mounts into the rear parcel tray
paint the dash top and the firewall and around the front and rear windows
Then its back home for me to play with it for a while......and spend more money.... https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/10/icon_lol-1.gif

I'm off on holidays for a little while, knowing panel shop guys, it'll still be in the shop when I get back, so I'll get some pics of the work in progress.

[shawn_s]

nice project, ill definatly be keeping an eye on this.

[cdoggy81]

"Picked up one of my all time favourite cars, a small back window early 2nd generation Firebird"
Ya, I couldn't agree with you more :)
Cool project & look forward to the updates!!!

[LeighP]

Well, car is still sitting in the body shop....no surprise there I suppose.... :roll:
While its gone, I was looking at some instruments...the AU Dollar being good against the greenback....
Just got a reply for a quote on my new gauge set....I'll be calling the guy and ordering them while the Aussie dollar is doing well against the US $.
They're Classic Instruments - Moal Series (designed by Steve Moal)....they are built to resemble classic aircraft instruments, I just love the look of them. I'm also adding a black/white faced clock with the same bezel since I have the extra hole already in the dash facia....I'm using the A/C vent holes for instruments. The fake "adjustment" knobs on the speedo hold LED lights for the turn signals and high beam.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/10/01big-1.jpg
Can't wait to get these so I can modify my dash facia and then send it off to a guy I know in the US who restores them......should look great!

[Bad Bird]

Awesome project!

Cheers to seeing another Aussie here as well. I *really* should post up some pics of my XB Coupe PT project.

[LeighP]

Love to see those pics, Matt!

Well, seems theres no power on earth to get a body shop to move any faster than they want to...lol.
My car is slowly being worked on...I'd hoped to have it back some time ago.
On the plus front, stacks of parts have finally arrived.....all I'm waiting on is the suspension, a DSE selecta-speed wiper kit and some other bits and pieces to finish the head lights off.
While I'm waiting for the car to come home, I bought a small grinder unit and converted it to a buffer so I could clean up trim etc. Tried it out on the grill surrounds, and they came out pretty nicely....so I continued on and finished the grills off. A combination of silver and charcoal grey looks "factory"...not sure if its correct, not that I care since this is not a "restoration".
The original grill badge fell to pieces when I pulled it off the grill. I picked up the trunk lid PONTIAC script from a G8 and made a bracket to hold the script....I'm going to use this script on the tail panel as well.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
I can't believe I was lucky enough to get two undamaged grills with this car when I bought it....they just looked very average indeed. Much better now.

[Monte71]

wow great car.i found a pontiac firebird,but he wont sell it.its beens setting since 1971.....blew the motor 3 months after purchase(i know i was passenger)and has sat ever since

[T_Raven]

Cool project. As much as we all like the high dollar builds it's nice to see what guys can do with a smaller budget and some creativity

[cdoggy81]

Grills look great & turned out real nice! I like the G8 touch :)
Did you know those are off a 73? 70-71 had the small squares, 72 had the honey comb & 73 had the big squares.

[formula]

those gauges are so so so sick...might have to steal that idea as I love aviation-themed stuff.

[LeighP]

lol, yeah...I now know they're off a 73...a friend kindly pointed that out to me..after I restored them. They don't fit into a 70-72 nose. I just assumed they were the right grills as they were sitting in the trunk when I bought the car. I've got a couple of good 73 noses if I want to use them (less the additional heavy 5mph bracing stuff)....but I found out the 71 grills are available reproduction, so I'll order a set while Classic Industries has a 15% off sale.
I'll store these ones away. If I ever need to use a 73 nose, then I'll be right for grills.
Doesn't matter...it was good practice....lol.

[WS6]

Nice car Leigh. I hope to build an early 2nd gen one day as well. I think it would compliment my 79 just fine. Keep up the good work.

[LeighP]

I dropped into the panel shop this afternoon after work and this is the sight that greeted me....
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
They've cut out and patched the RH side of the firewall, filled a few holes, cut the steering column hole back into the firewall....just has to add the booster mount back into the left hand side.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
When I left, he was cleaning up the rear window channel area....not too much rust, mainly small pitting with a couple of holes to fix.
The boss says he wants to finish it by saturday...I sure hope so.

[LeighP]

So, after much stuffing around with little issues, I finally finished the head light mount assemblies.
I originally ordered some repro buckets, but they turned out to be incorrect for this application and didn't work....so it was down to the local wrecking yard with a sample bucket (I had one crusty old one). I found that local GM Holden buckets from the same vintage cars fit and work, so I snapped up a good pair of them. Added advantage, unlike the original ones, these Holden ones are galvanised.
I used my die grinder and clearanced the backs of the buckets to suit the seals on the new Hella H4 headlights (100W/55W).....new adjusters, retainers and springs later....and all done.
These little projects are all I have to amuse myself while the panel shop drag their feet.....
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[SamHatco]

Starting to shape up, Leigh. I know your ready to get your hands on it to begin reassembly.

Sam

[thedude327]

Leigh,

Your project is great because your doing it your way with innovation where you need it to make things work! I'll have to check back from time to time and see how it's coming along. It took me 2 years to put my 73 camaro back together and alot of fitting polishing and modifying to make things go and, once I got it on the road, I found that I'm still modifying things. Just warning you it never ends..........lol

Great job!!
Paul

[LeighP]

lol, yeah...they're an on-going commitment...thats for sure.
I saved myself some $ yesterday. I had a pile of crusty looking window alloy trims that came with the car.
Some time spent carefully straightening them and some buffing later and I've got a good looking complete front windscreen set ready to fit. Have to do the back window ones now.

[67speedfreak]

Nice looking project !

[transamguy79]

looks like a great project. good luck man and have fun with it

[LeighP]

Well, I can report that there has been concerted effort this morning to get work done on my car....rust is now all repaired, car is ready for priming of the repaired sections...the firewall, front and rear screen mount areas and the dashtop.
I went down to the shop this morning and stayed there until it was done...helping out, doing some sanding etc. I wasn't going to leave because as long as I stayed there, he couldn't wander off and do something else....lol. :lol:
After talking with the shop owner, I've decided to leave the front and rear screens out until its painted....easier to dry strip the old paint and a cleaner, neater job in the end...and no risk of accidently damaging a screen.
At least all the rust is now repaired.
Here you can see where the conversion back to LHD has been done....the filled firewall and the booster mount relocated to the LH side. The new column drop I got has been welded into location inside.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
Heres one of the rear upper seat belt mounts I had fabricated and fitted. A top feeding inertia reel will locate in the bottom of the well section....there will be a brace that runs down to the inner wheel well to further reinforce the mount. When the rear is all trimmed, the belt will feed out like a late model car from under the trimmed deck.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[LeighP]

Dropped in this afternoon.....the worked on areas are now in hi-fill....still some work to touch up in a couple of little spots and he wants it to sit in primer for a few days at least before the colour coat.....but its getting closer to coming home.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[SamHatco]

your getting excited about having it painted.


Sam

[CruizinKev]

:twothumbs :twothumbs

[Young Gun]

niiiice

[LeighP]

Looking forward to getting it home in the garage....so I can start in using some of these expensive pieces I have sitting around....lol.

[WS6]

I like the rear seatbelt idea. Very nice touch. Is it mandated or just something you wanted to do?

[68400BIRD]

It sure is nice to see some of it in primer. Your at about the same spot as me if not a little further along. A little bottom apint and I will be bolting on goodies also. Keep the pics coming.

[LeighP]

I like the rear seatbelt idea. Very nice touch. Is it mandated or just something you wanted to do?

Seems to be a little "grey" area.....I believe I could get away with using original lap belts, however if I'm putting my girlfriends kids in the back seat, I feel I should be using up to date belt technology for comfort and safety. I'm also updating the front belts to new inertia reels....similiar to what I set up in my old 70 RS/SS Camaro.
I debated deleting the rear seats and building a flat floor with storage bins and just carpeting the rear out and having a half cage.....but then I decided I liked the option of occasionally seating someone back there.

The bottom of the car was already painted by one of the previous owners....its pretty clean underneath already....made my life a little easier.

[LeighP]

Yippeeeeee.....my car is finally out of the panel shop and back in my garage. Tilt tray guy dumped it in my driveway this afternoon.
Rust around the front and rear screens has been repaired and left in primer. Firewall has been converted back to left hand drive configuration, filled and plated for a smooth firewall....everything has new seam sealer and has been painted. The Stain Black is probably a little too glossy, but I can live with that...looks good.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
Best part is, the panel shop owner felt bad about stuffing me around for almost 3 months...gave me a terrific deal on the work, so I made out there OK. Guess it pays to be nice, even when things aren't happening fast enough to suit you.

[68400BIRD]

Looks great, I got a little nervous at first when you said they dropped it in your driveway.LOL What do you plan on working on next?

[CruizinKev]

yeah looks great! :twothumbs

[LeighP]

Time to clean it up some (its 'panel shop' filthy), fit out the heater/demist system and new inertia reel seatbelts front and rear....then paint out the interior...going to try out my homemade Lizard Skin insulation paint.
Get that subframe off the front and install the new frame then tackle the rear springs and rear axle rebuild.

[LeighP]

Been slipping some of the cowl parts back onto the car as I go. I fitted up a wiper kit I picked up from Detroit Speed & Engineering (DSE) .....converts to a late model wiper with 5 intermittant settings and low/high. Kit comes with adapter and a wiring harness. Fits quite well, very compact on the firewall. Only issue is that the switch mount is made for a Camaro dash, so I'll have to fabricate a mount to suit the Firebird dash.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[OLDFLM]

Looking good my friend!! Search for the dash build thread that John (NOT A TA) did on my dash and you'll see where he fabbed a bracket for the wiper switch in my car... HTH

[thedude327]

Leigh,

Your proj. is looking good. Are you swapping to an aftermarket front subframe or one that's setup for left hand drive? Firewall turned out great !! The rear seat belt mod looks interesting too. Can you post more pics of it as you get it sorted?


Paul

[LeighP]

Ty....John posted some pics for me of that bracket which I saved. Thanks.

Paul, I've got a couple of people interested in what I'm doing with the belts so I'll be sure and post some pics as I go. I have another frame that was used in a RHD conversion, but is way less modified than the one on the car....I'll be using it in LHD configuration...with a couple of little mods.

[LeighP]

For those who've asked about the belt installation.....
- The rears....
I used the last model Ford rear centre seat belts from a local model with Australian compliance tags. They bolt flat to a surface and feed off the top of the belt, which was exactly what I needed. The belts are mounted in a steel box which is welded into the parcel tray corners, low enough so half of the belt reel is recessed into the tray.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
The welded in box stiffened the tray somewhat, but its not enough for a good belt mount, so I used the system theats in most of the Australian Compliance Plate converted RHD 2nd gens I've seen....a piece of steel that joins the reel attachment to the inner fender (a bolt will be added on final assembly).
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
I then made up a cover for the reel, so that it could be trimmed over and also retain the plastic belt feed trim.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
- The fronts...
These belts are supplied by an Authorised Restraint Supplier/fitter. I worked with him to combine the length of drop-link I needed as well as the reel type to suit my application. The reel is a special type designed to feed, retract and lock when installed at an angle. A bracket was made to adapt a single top mount bolt to the factory twin bolt top mount...the steel used is thicker than the original attachment bracket. The original trim cover will fit over the new bracket. All other attachment points are the factory locations.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
I previously used a similiar arrangement in my 70 RS/SS Camaro, so I know how well these belts fit and work....they are very comfortable.

[Motown 454]

Nice set up, it looks great.

[CruizinKev]

yeah nice! :twothumbs

[LeighP]

thanks guys. :)

[NOT A TA]

Nice belt setup leigh. How far out does the inertia reel stick from the rockers? I know you're using the Vette seats that are narrower than stock, but do you think most aftermarket "sport" racing seats would fit and slide past the reels?

[subtlez28]

Leigh, nice car!
I 100% agree early 2nd gen Formula hoods are the best looking!

I like the detail on the seatbelt mods. I think this is an area all older muscle cars should be updated!

Maybe I missed it, but what is the plan for engine and trans?

[Roadbuster]

Love what you have done on the rear seatbelt retractors. When done I bet most people will think it came that way!

I want to do something similar to my GTO so I can safely have my daughter in the car once she is old enough to get out of a child seat.

Jon

[LeighP]

Thanks guys. To answer some ?...
1. The reels stick out just under 3" I'd say...when we fitted up this same configuration of belt for my frined's 73 Camaro, his stock seat would just hit the reel at full rear travel. I'd say any seat narrower than a stock seat would be fine.
2. Driveline plans are - 455 +.040" (464ci), tricked TH350 with 2.75:1 1st gear...all the good bits in it - B&M ratchet shifter. The rear end will be the stock 10 bolt housing, new 3.08:1 gears for the highway (hence the 2.75:1 low gear in the trans), moser forged axles and a Richmond PowerTrax locker centre.

About my choice of combination....the car is not being built to drag race, its being built as a budget Grand Tourer in the European tradition of the name...a driving car for spirited long distance runs. :)
I can't afford to go for the really trick gear thats out there now, but I can maximise the efficiency of the stock configuration for handling and ride etc.

[tazzz25906112]

Knocking it out of the park Leigh, and I too think those belts are killer,,,, keep up the great work buddy

[cdoggy81]

Great work so far, keep it up!!! (& the cool pics :) )

[LeighP]

Thanks...I really like those GTO rear (and fronts) seats in your T/A...they look right at home in the back.
I'm going to get some rear seat headrests and supports from some late model wreck and have my trimmer fit them to the rear seats and base the rear seat pattern on the Corvette seats I'm using in the front.

[BA.]

very nice work there man, you got a lot of extra work in that puppy!

[LeighP]

Well, I've finished converting a 75+ Camaro subframe to a 71 Firebird frame and added WS6 spec braces for the rear lower control arm mount.
Camaros have the mounts for the sway bar brackets tapped into the chassis metal. Due to the higher loads applied by the larger Trans Am sway bars, Firebirds use Rivnuts to anchor the sway bar brackets.
I drilled the original holes out to fit Rivnuts and set them with hand tools....easy and cheap if you are only doing a few.
Heres all you need....
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
Here are the Rivnuts set on one of the front frame rails....
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
I located the correct position for the WS6 control arm brace mounts using a 79 subframe I have spare here. The factory only taps the subframe for the mount, but since I had some Rivnuts, I fitted one into the chassis. The control arm rear mount is drilled for a 3/8" bolt....
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
The chassis is going by a small engineering shop down the road to get the late model rear body mount locations plated over, then its off to the powder coater for blasting and coating.

[LeighP]

Got the heater unit fitted up .... holes in the firewall etc. Fits in very nicely, though I've now got it out again while I sort out insulating the firewall, at least the bit behind the heater unit.
I hit the firewall and toe board areas with my angle grinder and wire brush.....should have seen the stuff fly....dirt everywhere, lol.
All cleaned up with wax and grease remover then got stuck into a few coats of my home made insulating paint.
The paint is a mix of epoxy anti-rust paint and micro-balloons (aka micro-spheres).....50/50 by volume. I turned 500ml of paint into a litre of this stuff, then coated the firewall until it was all used up.
The micro-balloons are tiny glass spheres that are hollow...suspend them in a paint base like this and it forms a nice insulating layer. There is a commercial product called Lizard Skin that uses this method, but they use a latex based paint and are way more expensive...I'm not even sure you can buy it here in Australia.
Anyway....I'll get some Dynamat Xtreme sheets to go over the paint and add a firewall pad over that of Dynapad....which is a multi layer noise and heat barrier.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[LeighP]

Awwww, I broke it..... :)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
Waiting on the new subframe which is away being welded on then powdercoated.....

[LeighP]

Subframe is back from the engineering shop.
New set of custom made WS6 style control arm mount braces...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
The unused late model rear body mount holes all plated up, top and bottom...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
The slightly rust thinned front body mounts re-inforced with a ring of steel plate, fro munderneath so it doesn't alter the body to frame distance...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
Its off to the blaster/powdercoater later on this morning.

[LeighP]

Some gear back from the powdercoaters....Subframe in satin black (control arms are getting done right now...) sway bars and crossmember in silver metallic.
I painted the new GM B body spindles in POR15 Cast Grey finish.....I'm using B body spindles so I can run 12" 1LE discs off a late 80's 3rd gen optional brake setup.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[Motown 454]

Nice work, the subframe looks great.

[LeighP]

Thanks Wayne. :)
.
Got stuck in this morning, between people dropping by to pick up parts...thanks guys :D ....
Got the subframe up and fitted, aligned and cross measured and torqued up. Fitted the front sway bar and sway bar brace (like a 3rd gen brace, but made for 2nd gens).
Fitted the WS6 style rear lower control arm mount braces I had made.
Fitted up one of the subframe cconnectors, I'll have the other finished tomorrow.....they bolted on very nicely...fit well.
Just to see how they fit, I positioned the front subframe "G Braces".....they actually don't bolt on until the front fenders are fitted.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[Roadbuster]

Great looking setup with all the triangulation it should be very stiff.

looking forward to the next installment!

Jon

[protouring70]

That is sweet! can't beat the look of a clean car!

[Hoghead123]

I love these cars, wish I had one...:smoke:

[LeighP]

Got the other subframe connector on today....funny how one side is easy, the other fights you all the way. Not that the connector didn't fit...it fits fine, just drill access for some reason was a little harder and I broke my large drill bit ...how I don't know, but it shattered...so I had to down tools and pack up and go off in search of a new drill bit...on a Sunday.
After that was all bolted in, I fitted up the heater unit after first covering that section of the firewall with dynamat and dynapad. Next trick is concentrate on the getting front end back together so the car is rollable for when I have to move.

[LeighP]

A little while since I last posted, but I have been working on the car.....assembling the front suspension and steering. Had to wait till an internal spring compressor came in for me....seems no one stocks these anymore for "old School" coil spring cars....just the outside style ones for strut equipped cars.
Got the upper and lower arms powdercoated in satin black. Uppers use solid steel greasable bushes on an offset forged cross shaft (more built in camber). I've used tall forged steel balljoints in the top to increase the negative camber gain when the suspension is in compression.
Lower arms use alloy and Delrin greasable bushes and standard quality replacement balljoints. My GEN II front coils went in OK and I fitted up the Koni Classic shocks and adjusted them to the "++" position...which is the halfway point between soft and hard.
Had to fit the new engine mounts before fitting the lower control arms went in...way easier to get the bolts into position that way. I've got Energy Suspension inserts in the clamshell style late model mounts. Mounts are left loose till the engine is fitted.
Steering box is a new 12.7:1 GM670 power box with billet steel pitman arm and new rag joint. I'll be using a repro intermediate steering shaft as soon as the supply turns up in the country. All new drag link (Camaro one - hence the straight replacement pitman arm - they are different from Firebird drag link/pitman arm) and new tierods and idler arm...the tie rod adjusters are an aftermarket solid replacement rather than the factory split tube design.
Stub axles are later model new GM "B" body stubs....so I can fit 12" 1LE option discs from a late 80's F-body. Discs are new SSBC "Big Bite" rotors...I wasn't particularly looking for crossdrilled rotors, but these were on special at Summit for a really good price.
So only problem now is I have to find some old 15" tyres to fit to my spare Rally II wheels to use as "roll arounds"....the old wheels I've been using are 14" Rally IIs and they won't fit anymore due to the new front stubs, lol.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[68400BIRD]

WOW!! Looks grreeat. Nice to see some progress.

[syborg tt]

Awesome Build - plenty of idea's here for my next project. Thank you very much.

[LeighP]

Thanks guys. :)

[PT_79_TA_461]

hey, i was thinking about the solid body mounts....can you just drop the body on the frame, bolt it up and do a lil welding...? kinda like what the Mopar guys have? integrated Body/frame?

[LeighP]

You'd still need to space the body off the frame....the solid mounts I have can be used in the reverse position to lower the body in relation to the frame, or in combination to "wedge" the body over the frame. Issues arise with clearances in the engine bay, so I didn't pursue this option.

[vsefiream]

hey, i was thinking about the solid body mounts....can you just drop the body on the frame, bolt it up and do a lil welding...? kinda like what the Mopar guys have? integrated Body/frame?

Yes you can, Herb Adams did this to one of his cars. He welded the frame directly to the body.

[tones2SS]

Very nice. Looks like a nice build. She should handle great.
Keep us posted.

[gto406]

Looking great Leigh!

BR/Brian
'72 GTO.

[tazzz25906112]

Looking great Leigh,,,, you'll be enjoying that beauty before you know it my friend...

[LeighP]

thanks guys.....slight pause in the project....I've bought a house and have to move my fiance in with me for a few weeks (her house sold quick), then all move into the new house....probably be a couple of months before I can get properly stuck back into the car in the new house (all those little "Honey, can we just....." jobs).
I picked up some free 15" tyres for my spare set of Rally IIs, so shes back on her feet and I dropped in a column and the steering wheel...easier to move that way.
But now she's sitting out in the garage all loaded up with parts inside...waiting...

[vsefiream]

Good luck with the move Leigh!

[LeighP]

Thanks... :)

[LeighP]

well....time to resurrect this thread.
Time flies when you're having fun...or moving/setting up a new house.
I was getting withdrawl symptoms....had to do something while I'm waiting to finish the workshop area.

The other day I stripped down the inner fenders, marked all the unused holes and dropped them off at a panel shop to get the holes filled and a couple of small dents worked out.....
I stripped the rad support panel down and when the fenders come back, all the parts are off to the powdercoaters for a nice coat of satin black to match the job they did on my subframe.

Tonight, while I was on nightshift, I broke out my list of bits and pieces I've been meaning to order and made some calls to the US.
I ordered -
1. Pypes hockey stick exhaust tips in 2.5" T304 stainless steel.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
2. RobbMc fuel pickup/sender unit and pump prefilter
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/1077_gmsend_4x-1.jpg
3. The new Stainless Steel version of the 1970 GTO optional VOE (Vacuum Operated Exhaust) from Waldron Exhaust....driver control of exhaust flow path through the mufflers for normal sound or louder/deeper full flow sound.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/VOE220w20control20kitJPG-1.jpg

and I had to get some Bling....
4. Fesler billet door vents for 2nd gens....I really think they look the part, more so than the factory black plastic ones.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
5. Marquez Design stainless steel hood bumpers and door strikers
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[68400BIRD]

Nice parts. Looking forward to seeing some progress again.

[syborg tt]

Little more details please



2. RobbMc fuel pickup/sender unit and pump prefilter
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/07/1077_gmsend_4x-1.jpg

[LeighP]

70-73 F-body fuel pickup with 0-90 ohm sender unit.....
1/2" pickup with the sock filter deleted. 1/2" return line for injected use, or use with a reducer for mechanical pump vent line or regulator return line if needed.
$169 from RobbMc Performance.

[Doug1]

70-73 F-body fuel pickup with 0-90 ohm sender unit.....
1/2" pickup with the sock filter deleted. 1/2" return line for injected use, or use with a reducer for mechanical pump vent line or regulator return line if needed.
$169 from RobbMc Performance.

Leigh! Glad to see your build thread here. Just ran across it for the first time. Looking good!

I also use the RobbMc sending unit in my Blue 79 since I ran 8AN lines. That pickup looks like a fire hose compared to a straw when the new unit and the old are placed side by side. I went with the AN fittings to make it easy to bolt up. I think they come with or without AN fittings if I remember.

Very cool work! I will subscribe to keep up with your project.

[LeighP]

Thanks mate....I'm in the bush leagues compared to your build....awesome.
I thought about the AN fittings, but for my use I was planning on quality EFI rated fuel hose and clamps - so I went the standard hose barb ends.

[POS71RS]

...a few coats of my home made insulating paint.
The paint is a mix of epoxy anti-rust paint and micro-balloons (aka micro-spheres).....50/50 by volume. I turned 500ml of paint into a litre of this stuff, then coated the firewall until it was all used up.
The micro-balloons are tiny glass spheres that are hollow...suspend them in a paint base like this and it forms a nice insulating layer. There is a commercial product called Lizard Skin that uses this method, but they use a latex based paint and are way more expensive....


I'll have to look into this! I can't afford to spend that kinda $$ on Lizard Skin and the like! Where do you get these balloon particles??

Amazing work you're doing!

[LeighP]

Those microballoons are available from anywhere that stocks fibreglass supplies...they're a filler for resin used to fair a f'glass surface of creat fillets in corners etc.

[formula]

Hey Leigh, if you have a spare second in the future, can you do me a huge favor and snap a quick shot that shows how the swaybar brace and your front bar interact at their mounting locations? I've been thinking of picking one up, but am concerned that, since my car pushes the bar through such a large range of motion in its bushings, the two may interfere.

[LeighP]

Heres what I have handy....let me know if you need another view and I'll shoot more pics.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[twoformulas]

Leigh, nice car! My '75 Formula is set up similar with allt the goodies from an '81 WS6 T/A, the "stop flex kit" from pro-touringf-body.com, 1LE front brakes and the 17x9" snowflakes from Year One. I haven't pushed it to autocross cornering yet but on the street it handles great! Keep up the great work. Rick

[Doug1]

Thanks mate....I'm in the bush leagues compared to your build....awesome.
I thought about the AN fittings, but for my use I was planning on quality EFI rated fuel hose and clamps - so I went the standard hose barb ends.

I wouldn't agree with that. You are using a lot of skill, creativity and cool parts where it counts to get what you want.

[LeighP]

well.....after falling in love with some Schott wheels that I thought would suit my car's style nicely, I got a rude awakening when I got a quote for them
.....I really can't see my budget stretching to wheels that'd cost me a thousand dollars a corner (but man, aren't they nice!)

I had other choices that were on my list, including the NewGen Fivehundred, which is better priced than the Schott, but was still a stretch....this car is supposed to be a budget build....

Then I just happened to come across an American Racing wheel...the Hot Rod Custom 500. Two piece alluminium wheels with just about any offset or width you'd like....built to order.

So these are what I've ordered for my project.....I really wanted something that felt "old school" and wasn't tied to current design trends.

Hot Rod Custom 500 series -
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
I think they are the right style....classy. 17x8" with zero offset and they fit my budget.

[OLDFLM]

Perfect for your build my friend!! Just put a PMD or 'bird decal in the centercaps! LOL

I know a company that can make them for you if need be too... any colors you want...

[LeighP]

Thanks for that...I'll definately keep that in mind...might even buy in a second set of caps to modify like that. :smoke:

[LeighP]

Very happy with my powdercoating......inner fenders, radiator support, all the engine accessory brackets and pulleys.
All came out very nice. I had a panelbeater repair the inner fenders and fill all the unnecessary holes.

LH Inner Fender
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
RH Inner Fender
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
Radiator Support
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[John Wright]

The PC'd parts look great!

[70fireturd]

Clean looking car. Kudos on the rear seat belts that is a great idea. I was wondering, where did you find those polyurethane motor mounts for a pontiac motor. I could not find poly mounts anywhere? I also noticed those are the clam shell type mounts instead of the 1970-73 mounts where the rubber mounts to the block. How did you line those up on you 71 sub frame since the early mounts have different bolt holes. Thanks Zach

[tcronkright]

Great job Leigh. The gauges are incredible - the look and feel are amazing. I would have opted for these had I known.

One question, what model DSE wiper motor did you purchase?

Keep up the excellent work, this is a well-thought build.

[bonecrrusher]

Nice powder coating... I have a similiar exhaust on my C6 - the Z06 and ZR1 have vacccum operated mufflers that open up at 3500 rpm!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y33MDL5cnxQ

[LeighP]

Clean looking car. Kudos on the rear seat belts that is a great idea. I was wondering, where did you find those polyurethane motor mounts for a pontiac motor. I could not find poly mounts anywhere? I also noticed those are the clam shell type mounts instead of the 1970-73 mounts where the rubber mounts to the block. How did you line those up on you 71 sub frame since the early mounts have different bolt holes. Thanks Zach

Hi, they're actually Chevy 2nd gen clamshell inserts...they don't make specific ones for Pontiacs. You have to trim off the small metal flanges that poke out the ends of the inserts...they are for chevy motor mount brackets and will not let the Pontiac mount brackets fit properly.
The reason they were easy to use is that my car has a 75+ Camaro subframe under it....the 71 Firebird frame was a little chopped up when someone tried to convert the car to right hand drive....I'm planning ot save it later as a spare, but it was just easier to swap in the Chevy frame....all the later 2nd gen frames have all the holes for Chev/Pontiac/Olds engines.

They are Energy Suspension part 3.1116
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/09/EngineClams-1.jpg

[LeighP]

Great job Leigh. The gauges are incredible - the look and feel are amazing. I would have opted for these had I known.

One question, what model DSE wiper motor did you purchase?

Keep up the excellent work, this is a well-thought build.

Thanks.
The DSE kit is for hidden wipers for a 71 Camaro....the only difference I can see is that the switch mount they supply to located their new switch in the dash has to be reworked to suit a Firebird....other than that, it all apears to be the same as a Camaro.

[LeighP]

Pulled out the rear axle yesterday, stipped down the brakes etc.
Went to pull the axles to take off the backing plates - first hurdle, the retaining pin screwed out ok...was a little tight, but it didn't break...cool!
Then...the centre pin, which should just slide out (like it has for the other diffs I've worked on) had to be driven out with a punch, then pulled with a slide hammer to get it far enough out that I could remove the axles....its all worn and torn up where it was riding aganst both of the spider gears....not that thats really too much of an issue...doesn't appear to have hurt the carrier and all the centre gears and pinion shaft are replaced by the Richmond Powertrax unit that I'm fitting. I fished a couple of pieces of shim out of the oil as well...guess I know why those spider gears were wearing the pinion.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[LeighP]

I picked up my dash from the restoration guys....they did a great job repairing and reskinning...they also dyed the plastic panels, grab handle and painted the ash tray so it all matched.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

And I also received a shipment of GEN II Racing Product parts, which included the my new adjustable Pro-G-Braces for the subframe to cowl.....
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
Fully adjustable and larger diameter than the regular G-Braces.....cool stuff.

I'm really happy that I can now get back into this project...its been a long 6 month lay off while I moved house and got settled in...of course, moving house has sucked up some of my project cash....grrrr, that'll slow me down a little while the funds recover.

[tcronkright]

Thanks for the wiper info. That confirmed what I was going to order.

You did the exact same thing with your dash as I did to mine. I want a simple and classic look in the interior. Nice work!

[PonchoJohn]

Looks Great, Leigh! That dash came out really nice!

[LeighP]

Yeah, Randy Combs restored the facia for me...looks great.

[96t/acj]

WOW for a home built car this is great! VERY NICE WORK!

[bonecrrusher]

Looking good!

[cdoggy81]

What's word from down under?

[LeighP]

I'm still waiting to get the rear axle back from having the tubes welded so I can soda blast it and paint it prior to being rebuilt.
I did design and have a guy I know (with an engineering shop) make up some brackets which will allow me to mount the rear sway bar drop links.
This is the finished bracket....drilled and tapped so the sway bar bracket bolts to this piece instead of the rail.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
In position and bolted up.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
ECS system is all cleaned up ready to go when I fit the tank.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
New GEN II GT leaf springs are fitted ,waiting on the rear axle. I think I'll hang the KONIs on the weekend so its all ready to go.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[OLDFLM]

GREAT idea on the rear sway bar mounts! I actually had the U-bolt pull thru the factory frame rail holes on my car n the early 90s! You should market those brackets my friend!!

[LeighP]

Thanks....I'll make sure everything works OK when all bolted up....if its all OK, I'll see about having a few pairs made up (they are slightly different left and right).

[Doug1]

Leigh,

Been out of it here lately with some personal issues. I'll send a PM. Just getting back into the swing of things. You are doing a really great job on your car. I'm very impressed!

[LeighP]

Thanks Doug. :smoke:

mmmmmm, KONI, there is no substitute....
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[LeighP]

OK, so I got a chance to paint the housing before I went off to work...painted in the standard "unpainted" style of GM's F-bodies, bright steel tubes and cast grey centre. Axle tubes have been welded and the housing checked for straightness on a jig.....thats been the hold up, the guy was taking his time.
Fitted up the new 11" drum brakes, and now its all down at the diff shop getting set up...should be back in a couple of days.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[LeighP]

Yeah, I know...drum brakes....but they're 2" bigger in diameter than the stock brakes, I'm not racing the car, I'm building it on a budget....and most of all, I enjoy having a good park brake, lol.

[68400BIRD]

The car is looking great. What gears are you going with? I wouldn't worry about the rear drum brakes. I went with a CPP big disc kit in the rear and I'm not sure if it's worth the hassle for a street driven car.

[LeighP]

Running 3.08:1 gears. I'm setting up the TH350 with an aftermarket lower ratio 1st gear set up that'll give some more initial gearing than you'd normall get with 3.08's ...this way I get some highway gears, without the cost of the OD conversion.

[Takid455]

little by little you are getting there. Keep up the progress.

Nothing wrong with drums for most driving. My old '65 Imperial had 4 drums and would put your face in the dash. Brakes did very well stopping 3 tons.

[LeighP]

Productive day.....landscapers were tearing the back yard apart, I was putting the rear axle in....

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

One thing you have to do with the Pro-Touring F-Body HD U bolt kit is to trim the U bolts down after you fit the axle....the bolts stuck out 3" past the nuts, so I got out the trusty cutting disc on the 4" angle grinder and took them off so theres 3/4" left.

[srh3trinity]

Looks nice. How do you like the PTFB pieces so far? I am going to be buying some stuff from them. I think I am going with some type of link style or torque arm rear setup, but I will be buying their front chassis braces. Did you buy their subframe connectors too? I am curious how well they tuck up and in. I will look back in the thread if you have already covered subframe connectors.

[LeighP]

I liked the PTFB stuff so much I became the Aussie agent for them.....lol.
Seriously, the PTFB stuff fits very nicely, I haven't had any real issues so far. The SFCs went on without having to pound on them, or mod the car. In the above pics, the 4 jack stands are resting on the front and rear of the SFCs...they are VERY sturdy. I have pics of them being fitted further back in the thread.

[srh3trinity]

I liked the PTFB stuff so much I became the Aussie agent for them.....lol.
Seriously, the PTFB stuff fits very nicely, I haven't had any real issues so far. The SFCs went on without having to pound on them, or mod the car. In the above pics, the 4 jack stands are resting on the front and rear of the SFCs...they are VERY sturdy. I have pics of them being fitted further back in the thread.
Thanks, I looked back through after I posted.

[LeighP]

Finished off the back brakes....hand brake cables and painted the new drums.
These pics show you why you need at least 15" wheels with these drums.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

If you're thinking of this conversion, you may find that there is a slight interference between the big drum and the lower shock mount / spring plate. When I bolted the wheels on, it rubbed slightly. I ground a little off the sides of both shock mount plates, however you could equally have 2mm or so machined off the back edge of the drum without affecting anything.
In the pic, it rubs between where I've marked the red arrows.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Next...the fuel tank, pump and filter.

[LeighP]

Tank Day.....
Got out the tank I'd previously cleaned up and had tested. New tank straps and a few minutes and .... presto - Fuel tank!
Used some closed cell waterproof neoprene for anti rubbing strips/pads and found some tank strap rubber thats molded to fit the OER repro tank straps exactly (32mm).
Tank pickup is a Rob Mc brand....1/2" pickup tube with no sock filter...you run an external filter before the electric pump. The second pipe on the pickup is a return if you run a return style regulator....I'll just cap that off.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Wouldn't have minded fitting a pretty new bright silver tank...but since this one was in good condition, its hard to justify the money.

[OLDFLM]

Looking good my friend! We used RobbMc for my entire fuel system!

[LeighP]

I've got a Carter electric pump and a RobbMc pre-filter to go on tomorrow..just have to find a couple of fittings to suit my set up.

[LeighP]

Carter electric pump and RobbMc pre-filter went in today along with the plumbing. Add some more hardline tomorrow then move onto the radiator support for a bit...mock up and build the radiator mount to hold the alloy rad and twin thermo fans.

[Taman]

Great to see another 2nd gen. Good luck with the project. Been working on mine for 17 years. Never done.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AKEDPuKNofQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H4hlIeToDmM
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2010/08/DSC_7100-1.jpg

[LeighP]

So, I've been doing little stuff while I'm waiting for my mechanic friend to get home from his trip to help me sort the engine.
Finishing off the brake hard lines - have to fit up the calipers so I can get some hoses made up - a couple of people running the bigger brake rotors mentioned they'd like a little more length in the flex lines than the stock ones give you.
Also fitted up the trans cooler......I set up the mount so I can add an engine oil cooler easily on the other side if I ever think its necessary. I put some rubber vibration dampening mounts between the cooler and the frame....just in case.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Next job is to mock up the alloy radiator in position and design a mount for the radiator that lets me fit the twin thermo fans easily and neatly.

[LeighP]

Been sorting out the front brake calipers.....a couple of small issues to resolve. If you're using new GM B body spindles to convert to 1LE 12" rotors, the caliper bolt holes are drilled metric, not 7/16" UNF like the original spindles.
I couldn't locate a suitable metric caliper bolt, so I had the mounting threads helicoiled to UNF to suit the bolts.

The Wilwood calipers are drilled and tapped in NPT, so a conventional banjo style fitting won't work (also the area around the hole is not machined over the whole circle for a crush washer to seal). I had new lines made up about 1" longer than the factory lines and an adapter which is NPT to screw into the caliper, but has a brake line flared seat in it for the line to screw into.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Caliper paint is drying at the moment, but I should have it all together tomorrow.

[LeighP]

Heres the finished install on the calipers...I painted them just to help with cleaning issues, you can't really see them through the wheels I'm using much.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

The flex lines clear everything on full lock in both directions, so hopefully everything will work OK.

[LeighP]

So I bring out one of the AR500 wheels for a trial fit.....looks good and clears everything nicely.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Then I try the 15x7 Rally II......seems Wilwood GMIII calipers will not clear 15" rims when used with the 1LE mod B body stubs....they just scrape on a few points, noticeably the edges of a couple of the allen bolts that hold the calipers together.....I'm going to file them off so they are flush then see how that goes.

[tazzz25906112]

Leigh I haven't taken note of your rim/tire combo closely but you may want to consider a small set of spacers if wheel well clearance is there..... Running things that close to the line has a way of coming back and biting you in the ass buddy...

[LeighP]

yeah...thought that myself. I ground off the high spots on one of the calipers (just the edge of the allen bolt sticking out really) and it still just touches on part of the inner rim of the Rally II....I've ordered some 3mm spacers so I'll see how that works.
The 15" wheels are just for the occasional show when I want it to look a little more stock....normally it'll be running the 17x8" AR500's in the pic, and they have no clearance issues at all. I'll try the Honeycombs (which is the 15" rims I'll be using) when I get the spacers.

[LeighP]

Well, I'm a bit annoyed.....
I wanted the option of running the set of 15" Honeycomb rims I have here...for the odd occasion when I want it to look stock.
I just found it can't be done.
The spacers I picked up will let me run the Rally IIs OK, but it appears the Honeycomb rims are like the early second gen Rally IIs...they use 14" centres with a step down 15" rim....theres no way they'll fit.
I guess I'll refinish them (got some correct Honeycomb paint on the way) and add the new centre caps I bought and get my money back on Ebay...hopefully.
Looks like I'll be getting the Rally IIs refurbished and using them instead.

[LeighP]

Next little project is to get the radiator and fans set up.
Last time (on my 77 T/A) I cut up a factory shroud and mounted the fans into the back of that....worked OK, but I thought it could have been nicer to look at.
This time, I wanted a more compact radiator/fans mount....so I'm building it from scratch.
Some folded alloy sheet top and bottom, with the sections for the rubber radiator mounts set up using some bar stock welded on...all measurements taken off the original shroud.
I've set it up to put the radiator at the same angle in the support as the factory shroud does.....air flowing through a radiator set at an angle slows down, thereby exchanging more heat.
I'll be making up the side sections next, where the fans will bolt on using the factory mounts molded on the fan shroud....should be a 2 minute job to pull the fan pack anytime I need to.

Bottom mount
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

From the front
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Top mount - note the factory angle of the radiator
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

From the rear
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

And with the fans in place
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[WS6]

Looks good Leigh. I basically did the same thing using the factory 4th gen fans out of my Formula. They worked just fine on what limited driving I was able to do before I moved. I have a DeWitts aluminum radiator in place of the factory brass radiator as well so there should be no issues.

[Dons67]

Leigh - Project looks amazing - great job!

[LeighP]

Thanks. :)

[CrossRamRich]

Very nice! Love attention to detail. Wish Gen 2 made those bars for first gen!

[70TWO NOVA]

Wow, great detail in your work. Alot of projects lack that. Looking awesome.

[LeighP]

Thanks very much. :)

[LeighP]

The heads arrived...finally out of customs.
SD Performance 6X heads....CNC ported, alloy filled crossovers, 93-94cc chambers with Crane 99893 springs.
I worked out this should run me a shade over 9.5:1 compression, which is where I wanted it.
Flow chart shows with my cam's lift converted to running 1.65:1 ratio rockers, there should be 251CFM on the Intake and about 208CFM on the Exhaust side.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[rohrt]

Man SD does nice work!

[LeighP]

Yeah, better than new. :)

[cdoggy81]

Dave really knows his stuff & is a true Pontiac guy. They have several good cnc programs for Pontiac & aftermarket heads!

Did you ever get those Year One door panels? I'm curious as to their quality/fit.

[LeighP]

The 2nd gen Year One door panels look good.....but I haven't tried them yet. I'm told I will need to get a heat gun to slightly form the panel inwards aroung the manual window cranks.....and there is some fitting required around the edges for a nice finish. Overall, they look really good, I'm very happy with them. I got the engine turned trim panels to match the dash.

[LeighP]

Finally talked to the machine shop.....I'm going to drop everything off next week for the machine work.
Had some spare time this morning so I removed all the casting flash from the lifter valley area and smoothied it out....people tell me thats a recommended thing to do and it doesn't take long. Better now before the block gets tanked and cleaned.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Spent some time late last night (am - couldn't sleep) going through the workshop manual, good reading for explaining the interior of the engine. I recalled that you can screw up and get the pistons put on the wrong way as they have off-set pins.....so I just wanted to refresh my memory on that.
Rods get fitted so the tangs on the bearings face the cam.

[cdoggy81]

That's good to know. Do you have any pics of them? The turned aluminum inserts bumps the cost from like $350 to $600 right?

[LeighP]

No, they came down on price.....they were like $450 or so with the turned inserts...they started off way more expensive whe nthey first came out.

[PonchoJohn]

Leigh- make sure the machine shop knows they are NOT working on a Chevy engine. Pontiac V8's have the front cylinder biased opposite the Chevy, so if they aren't paying attention, they'll hang the rods backwards!
Looking good!

[Doug1]

Leigh- make sure the machine shop knows they are NOT working on a Chevy engine. Pontiac V8's have the front cylinder biased opposite the Chevy, so if they aren't paying attention, they'll hang the rods backwards!
Looking good!


Though I have read that some people have made the mistake of having the rods facing the wrong way, I find it odd. All the builder needs to do is put the chamfered side of the rod towards the outside edges, where the surface is also chamfered. It is really a hard mistake to make IMHO, unless the builder is a complete newbie. I have seen a more common mistake being that the builder doesn't realize their is an inner oil gallery plug nearest the distributor. I like to have all the gallery plugs tapped and a "squirt" hole drilled in the plug closest to the distributor to help with oiling there.

They figure out something is wrong as soon as they see no oil pressure. LOL

[LeighP]

Dropped off the engine at the machine shop today, it was going straight into the tank, then off for a line bore for the new 4 bolt caps. Talked to the guys there, who have a really good rep and been doing this stuff a LONG time, lol...they were well aware of the requirements for Pontiacs...and didn't mind me trying to teach them how to suck eggs, lol.
Should have it back in a couple of weeks.
Talked to the trans shop today as well, the box is done, they're just waiting on the new converter...should be in tomorrow...wahoo!

[LeighP]

Picked this up today.....
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

2200 stall, all the good gear, Lokar kick down cable, deep alloy pan and filter etc, steel drums, 36 element sprag......ready for when the engine is assembled. 8)

[formula]

Well, things are just moving along swimmingly, aren't they?

What's the plan on the engine? Any dyno action, or just put it in, fire it up, and ride it hard?

[LeighP]

Nope, engine doesn't get started till after its all in the car....guess I'll put the car on a chassis dyno later after its on the road.
Hey, we're Old School down here, mate! ;)

[LeighP]

I managed to pick up a set of unused "Tri-Y" D port headers off a guy I know in the US....a lot of the Pontiac Guys will know of these headers, there were a bunch made before the builder had "financial" issues and disappeared for a couple of years owing headers and money to people. Anyway, they had a great reputation amongst the people who got some for fit and performance.
I had them ceramic coated, picked them up thisafternoon...damn, the things look chromed, very nice! The guy who does the coating remarked on how heavily they were built, said he doesn't normally see headers as solid as these.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Hopefully, I'll have my engine short block parts back next week!

[68400BIRD]

So Doug was on the run. LOl The headers look great.

[cdoggy81]

ya, there is a LONG story behind those headers... :)
That's great you got a pair & they turned out so nice. They are well built & will perform quite well for you!

[buds87gn]

Good idea, i was thinking on using a Heat/AC box from a Honda on my GN so that i could clean up the firewall. Nice looking project so far

[LeighP]

Thanks guys. :)

[LeighP]

Took quite a while to actually get my new PTFB adjustable front and rear sway bars. Picked them up yesterday, got them fitted this afternoon.

Rear bar (7/8") went on easy enough, though a couple of adjustments were required. I'm using the PTFB heavy duty U bolts on the rear axle, they're 1/2" diameter, not 7/16" like the factory. I had to file out the mounting holes for the end fittings that go on the bottom of the spring perch plate.
Also had to trim the fixed bushes on those end brackets a little....every car is probably a little different and there was no way the bar was going to fit between the two end brackets as they came....so out came the trusty 4" angle grinder with thin cutting blade...cleanly trimmed down 3/16" off each and it fits fine. I've got it set to the middle of the three adjustment positions.
Note the end bolts that locate the bar to bracket....do not overtighten these. I coated everything with antisieze and just nipped them up as something's got to twist when that bar is moving around and you don't want to clamp the bar tight to the bushing.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[LeighP]

Front bar is a little more time consuming to fit, just playing around with the end links. Its an 1&1/4" diameter bar with adjustable clamp and turnbuckle style links.
I measured up the original front bar to determine the length of the torque arm on the factory bar and set my new links at that. After its on the road, I'll try sliding the clamps forward to tighten the bar up and see how that feels.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[LeighP]

Still waiting on the engine to come back......

Been doing little things when I get a few minutes, latest is to build up the tail light units. Bought new seal, new chrome diecast frames and new lenses.
Around here, we're supposed to run amber turn signal sections in our lights. Luckily, a guy in the next suburb to mine has a business making rare tail lamp lenses and such stuff. He's making very nice amber sections for 70-73, 74-78 and 79-81 lights.....so I bought a set and he fitted them to my new lenses.

I made up a divider for the outer lamp section of the light to separate the brake/tail lamp area from the turn signal area, painted the housing inside (white gloss) and outside (aluminium) and them made up some new studs for the diecast cover.....all went together nicely.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[Northern Goat]

Looking great. Keep up the good work.
I really like the tri colour taillights.

[WS6]

Leigh can you get a picture of the 79-81 lights? I'd love to see them. I'm glad to see the car is coming along nicely.

[cobragt]

Cool taillights!

[LeighP]

Leigh can you get a picture of the 79-81 lights? I'd love to see them. I'm glad to see the car is coming along nicely.

Pretty lousy picture, but I hope you get the idea.....the smoked covers don't make them as noticable as mine.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2011/04/9375660-1.jpg

Can also go to http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/results.aspx?N=1216+1246+1247+1252+1282+4294963768&keywords=&tsrc=allcarhome&Nne=15

Which is a car sales site in Australia....fair few 79+ T/As on there for sale to look at.

[cobragt]

Do you need to swap it to Right hand drive? I know a lot of early Mustangs that have gone down under have been swapped over.

[LeighP]

We used to...but we lobbied to get the law changed a few years back....now if the car is 30 years old or older, it doesn't have to be converted.
I actually converted my car back to LHD as the partial RHD conversion that was done to the car when Ibought it was rubbish.....very poor work.

[cobragt]

That's good, makes things a bit cheaper. I heard that the conversion was pricey.
We used to...but we lobbied to get the law changed a few years back....now if the car is 30 years old or older, it doesn't have to be converted.
I actually converted my car back to LHD as the partial RHD conversion that was done to the car when Ibought it was rubbish.....very poor work.

[opnwide]

Leigh,
I like that sway bar setup. Do you think that rear bar will work with DSEs minitub setup, leafs moved in 2"?. I'm currently running without a rear bar as the factory bar no longer fits, and I need to get one.
Heck, I might get the front too! I like the adjustability.

[LeighP]

It wouldn't work with the bar as sold by PTFB....they may be able to get you a narrower bent bar. The bar is very dependant on the width between the spring lower plates. I had to trim the bushings in the bolt on lower mounts slightly to fit my car...if your springs are moved in 2", then you'd definately need a custom bent bar.

[LeighP]

Good day today....went and picked up my new Honeycomb wheels from my importer, then headed down and had the tyres fitted and balanced.
They look really cool. Not the lightest wheels and tyres I've ever seen, though.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

17" x 9" - zero offset with 255/50ZR17 Nitto Invo tyres.
Guess I'm the first one in Australia with these new Year One wheels....cool stuff. Pity it'll be a while before the car is done....

[rohrt]

Those look really nice. They have to be lighter then the original steel honeycombs.

[LeighP]

lol...I'm not sure...the original Hneycombs are really heavy...steel with all that urethane molded on them, but these are no lightweight wheels....I really knew about after lifting the shipping boxes and the built wheels around, lol.
Then again, the cast 17 x 9 and 17x8's that I had on my old T/A were surprisingly heavy as well......maybe its the nature of cast larger diameter wheels? I'd hate to see cast wheels in 20"....you'd need two people to fit them.

[LeighP]

Well, picked up the engine and we got it all set up on the build stand in my friend's workshop...going to start the test assembly as soon as he has a day off that lines up with mine.

Well, the guy who was welding up the pieces of my new radiator shroud finally finished it off. Picked it up this morning and finished off fitting the fan pack and checking it all fits with the radiator in etc and in the car.
Works pretty well, the fan pack bolts on its factory mounting points, just had to trim a couple of little pieces of plastic here and there...fits nicely.
When finished, the radiator and shroud will all be painted satin black as is the rest of the engine bay.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[Doug1]

Looking good! I'd have to polish that aluminum rather than paint it. lol

[LeighP]

lol...thought about it, but the only polished alloy I want under the hood is the valve covers.

[LeighP]

Finally at the stage where we can start on the engine.....today we got into mock assembly to check bearing clearances, ring end gaps etc.
Already found that we have to space the 3/4 factory windage tray a little off the billet main caps as the sides just interfer a little with the ARP nuts on the main studs.
Have to grab some plasticene to double check the clearance on the oil pan...looks OK, but its worth checking.
Things are looking good so far.

Here's my mate, the master Pontiac engine guru....we're assembling and setting it up in his workshop.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Crank and new billet main caps....
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Factory windage tray....I drilled some extra drainback holes and chamfered the edges, cleaned up any raised burrs around the unit, then had a couple of small cracks welded up and the tray re-inforced where they tend to crack.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Won't have a chance to get back to it till next week, but hopefully we can finish the mock up by then and strip it, clean it and start putting it together for good....

[LeighP]

Met up at my friend's workshop again today to finish off the mock-up build on the engine.
Was able to get everything set up and checked. The piston the valve clearance was fine and we measured up for new pushrods (factory 455 ones were too short).
Luckily, the size we needed was in stock at a big supplier of parts near me, so we took a drive over there and picked up a set of Comp 5/16" pushrods 9.2" long. They printed a perfect pattern on the valve stem end with the 1.65:1 Magnum roller tip rockers when we got back to the workshop.

Next week, its strip down, hotwash and clean everything then start the real assembly. :cool:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Was going to use a Milodon gear drive set up that I picked up off a fellow Pontiac guy I know....2nd hand, but wasn't in his engine for long (he likes to try different things)....but being as it had already been fitted, two of the locating holes in the plate that are used for guiding the drilling of two holes into the block had been opened up for their finished size...meant we couldn't use the holes as guides for drilling my block woithout having someone machine up a set of bushes to press fit into the holes with the correct drill size in the middle.
I didn't want to wait, so I picked up a Rollmaster twin row roller timing set instead.

I'll get those bushes made up for the Milodon gear drive at some stage so if I ever want to use it on another engine, I can.

[Lycan]

:twothumbsThis gonna be a very nice Firebird, you have a very high standard on the work. Keep up the good work!!!

[LeighP]

Thanks....wish my budget was higher...so much trick gear out there, so little money....lol.

[Lycan]

I am in the same boat as you, the parts are very expensive here in Sweden. The price is more than double as high than in the US.:crying:

[LeighP]

Yeah, though its gotten better recently as the US dollar has dropped against the Australian dollar....I'm actually getting much more US money for my Aussie money, and I import nearly all my parts myself...thats another big cost saver....not having to pay for someone elses profit and overheads for importing parts.

[LeighP]

FINAL ASSEMBLY....wahoo! :grin:

Stripped the engine down from the partial "mock-up" build this morning.....took it outside on the stand and hit it with degreaser, then a hot water and detergent scrub down....blow it all off and had a final check that everything looked good. Back into the workshop....

Prepped the cam and slid it in, then set up the main studs and bearings ready for the crank.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

After we set up the BOP Viton rear main seal as per BOP Engineerings instructions (you have to follow them exactly), we dropped the crank in and then we lubed and torqued the main studs to spec (ARP's spec, not factory).

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

My friend stripped down the Mellings Select oil pump for an inspection and clean...really was pretty good, but he cleaned off a little burr or two.
Heres where we ran into todays problem.....I'm running a Canton Road Race oil pan and it required use of the correct Canton pickup....which I already had.
Went to fit it up only to find it has a manufacturing fault...the pipe on the pick up has been welded in at a slight angle (should be parallel to the pickup body we think), which means the pickup will not fit onto the pump correctly.
I'll be calling Canton in the morning to get another one...ASAP. See what they say about it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[gearbanger]

There may not be anything wrong with that pickup. You need the pickup to be parallel front to back and sideways with the bottom of the pan. The pontiac oil pump bottom is not so you can really compare it to the pickup. You need to install it and get a look at it in relation to the pan and get it within about 3/8" from the bottom of the pan if you possibly can. That's really all that matters.

[LeighP]

Thats the problem, you can't install the pickup....it doesn't fit. We tried it on two different correct Pontiac Mellings pumps. You can't get the angle right to push the tube into the pump body as the bracket is then off from where it bolts to the end plate on the pump....if the bracket is aligned with the location of the end plate bolt hole, then the tube is at an angle and can't slide into the pump. The Canton pickup is not adjustable....it bolts in one position and its designed only for their Road Race model pan. Correctly bolted onto the pump, the pickup is pre-positioned at the right location and depth.
The two of us have looked at it, we made up a positioning jig and located it into the sump to better get an idea of how it sits.....its just wrong.
I've ordered a fast delivery of another pickup from Summit. Canton are looking at pics I've sent and they'll email me, but I can't wait for their email reply.....just hope the next one is right. No one else running this pan/pickup combo has reported a problem, my bet is its a one off manufacturing error with the tube.

[cobragt]

Must have made it on a Friday afternoon or a Monday morning.

Thats the problem, you can't install the pickup....it doesn't fit. We tried it on two different correct Pontiac Mellings pumps. You can't get the angle right to push the tube into the pump body as the bracket is then off from where it bolts to the end plate on the pump....if the bracket is aligned with the location of the end plate bolt hole, then the tube is at an angle and can't slide into the pump. The Canton pickup is not adjustable....it bolts in one position and its designed only for their Road Race model pan. Correctly bolted onto the pump, the pickup is pre-positioned at the right location and depth.
The two of us have looked at it, we made up a positioning jig and located it into the sump to better get an idea of how it sits.....its just wrong.
I've ordered a fast delivery of another pickup from Summit. Canton are looking at pics I've sent and they'll email me, but I can't wait for their email reply.....just hope the next one is right. No one else running this pan/pickup combo has reported a problem, my bet is its a one off manufacturing error with the tube.

[LeighP]

lol...or maybe after a couple of cold brewskies at lunch....

[gkeeper]

HI, looks good!
i just dont understand the thing withe the motor brackets,
i understand that ull use the chevy clamshell inserts, but with the pontiac mounts? or chevy? the chevy mounts will fit a pontiac block? why to trim off the small metal flanges?

thank you

[Bad Bird]

Hi Leigh,

I love that you're doing a PT car over here. It's rare to see them!

I'm just up from you (in Newcastle) and I've started a new PT project - a '71 454 Corvette. Should be fun!

[LeighP]

Today, while I was at work, my friend decided to get the pistons into the block. Forged Speed-Pro, they came up near zero deck, which was nice. Pontiacdude's H beam forged rods....nice piece of gear, great value for money.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

I also received the new Canton pickup I ordered from Summit Racing (great guys, got it to me as fast as possible without it costing me the earth). This one fitted up OK as the tube was set into the pickup at the right angle. Fitted the pump with my Nitemare Performance HD pump end plate....its twice as thick as the standard end plate and machined with two oil grooves inside where the gears run on the cover.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

If we can get time on Thursday, we hope to have the engine finished to long motor stage.

[LeighP]

Hey Matt,

Thanks. That sounds like a cool project...you starting a thread on it I hope!


Hi Leigh,

I love that you're doing a PT car over here. It's rare to see them!

I'm just up from you (in Newcastle) and I've started a new PT project - a '71 454 Corvette. Should be fun!

[LeighP]

Down the back straight-a-way, heading for home........
We got together this morning and finished up the long motor.....then transported the engine back to my place. As soon as possible, I'll do the porting on the intake and paint the engine....its got an appointment with my Firebird it needs to keep.
Oil pump fitted.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
Windage Tray....we had to space it a little for clearance due to the billet 4 bolt main caps. Tray has been gone over to remove stress raisers, weld up where it was cracking and include some re-inforcement. Extra drain back holes added.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
Canton Road Race pan.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
SD Performance CNC machined heads (6X-8s) are on.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
Set up the valve train - Comp Magnum 1.65:1 roller tip rockers, Comp locks and Comp custom length push rods.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
Valley pan is on and sealed up.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
My best friend, Master Mechanic and Pontiac engine guru - Michael....you can see one of his Firebirds in the background...he took time out from restoring that 69 to show me the ins and outs of assembly. Thanks mate!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
Safely home on my engine stand...paint and final assembly work to follow.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[critter]

Very nice. I'll come pick your brain on the windage tray mods you did when I get to that stage with mine.

[LeighP]

Thanks, Chris...no problem. :)

[Doug1]

Great job Leigh. It is really coming along nicely. I did similar mods to my tray as well. I also have a home made tray that the guy who built the 455 in my blue car made. Pretty damn good. I'll get pics up of it here one day. He made it of very thick mesh plate. It would definitely kept any splashing to a minimum but let oil drain back very quickly.

[aronhk_md]

Leigh.....looking good! I'm hopefully not far behind you...lol.

[LeighP]

Thanks...I've got the weekend off - I dug out the new Performer manifold and I hope to get stuck into doing some port matching. I'd have gone the Performer RPM except that I'm running the factory Ram Air system and the RPM is too tall.
My friend in the above pics runs an RPM on his 428 and it works better than the Torker II that was on it previously...great manifold.

[LeighP]

So, between getting some sleep after night shift, and cleaning up around the place for my wife's little get-together with friends, I got to spend a little time on the engine today.
I clearanced the waterpump divider plate and fitted the pump.....using the new stainless steel transfer tubes and divider plate and a FlowKooler alloy pump....I liked the one that I used on my 77 T/A.
I checked the inlet gaskets to the ports.....SD Performance must CNC the ports out to the dimentions of a Felpro gasket as they fit prefectly...no trimming required. Same can't be said of the Performer manifold...needs quite a bit taken out of each port to match the gasket. The floor of the ports are the correct height, though....which makes for a good reference point.
I also got to clean up and paint the valley cover before I finish the manifold and fit it....I like the stock 71-73 colour...the VHT paint has a nice gloss.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[LeighP]

I had the day to play around with things...cool... :cool:

I'd marked out the manifold yesterday, so I started in on cutting out the ports to size. All seemed to go OK...I think its not too bad for a first timer. I didn't blend in too far into the ports...just enough to make a smoother transition to the new port size. Didn't take as long as I thought it would.

Heres the before on a pair of ports.....
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

And heres the after on the same ports...the others were very much the same deal.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

I checked the manifold and head matching faces were parallel to each other (tip from my engine builder friend) just in case there had been some machining mis-match....all was fine.
Got the manifold bolted on and sealed up. Then I masked it up and shot some colour on it.....nice.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Started fitting up the accessories....fuel pump blockoff plate, Nitemare Performance remote oil filter adapter (nice piece of gear, it's O ringed, doesn't use a gasket).
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Day off again tomorrow...more fun.... :lol:

[LeighP]

Spent today chasing down some bolts, cutting them to length (why don't bolts fit first time?)
Sat the carby up there to have a look at how everything went together, painted the valve cover centres and mounted them up.....still have to dig a few temp sensors out and mount them...water temp and oil temp, and mount the Canton dip stick.....tomorrow job. :lol:

Mmmmm, shiny.....

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[critter]

A Quadrajet? Oh heck, you know that will never work!

[LeighP]

Its a Cliff Ruggles Q-jet....darned straight it'll work....lol.

Little more sorting out today.....hung one of the headers on to check clearances on the remote oil filter fittings and the run on the Canton dipstick flex tube.....after a little head scratching on how the dipstick was going to work, I read the instructions....ah! I now understand.....lol. Dipstick needs to be trimmed to length.....

I'm going to have to do a little work on clearancing the LH breather, it hits the bottom of the ram air aircleaner on that side.....I think I've figured a fix.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[critter]

Leigh, why the flexible dipstick VS the stock one?

[LeighP]

Canton pan had the plug already in the sump for their dipstick, I wasn't sure about clearances with the windage tray/billet 4 bolt main caps ( I did have to space the windage tray a little) and the headers vs the stock dipstick...and I really never cared too much for the separate guide piece sitting down in the block that is just located by it's position between the dipstick tube and the windage tray.
.....plus
lol...doesn't look bad, either..... :)

[critter]

As you know, I'll be using the same pan and I already have a flex tube type dipstick tube for my 4L80e so I didn't want to use another one if I didn't have to. It looks like I'll have to, huh? Maybe put an "O" and a "T" on them so I won't get confused! LOL!

[LeighP]

I can't imagine filling a trans through one of these....but as a dip stick only they look fine....

[aronhk_md]

Thats looking terrific Leigh. I STILL dont have my block back.....sigh. I do have a new and bigger turbo coming though :D Those headers of Ron's look great. What coating did you get on them? Also, any chance you could post over on the Tri-y thread on PY that last pic and maybe a pic from the same spot but lower down level with the pan bottom.....so people can really get a good idea of how they dont come down past the pan?

I'm hoping to get a set of stainless ones from him. He's going to try to move the tubes forward as much as possible, and they are going to be really short since they make a sharp turn toward the passenger firewall right before the trans. But I love that blue purple look stainless gets when it gets hot........and its going to get HOT with that turbo.....lol

[LeighP]

I'll dig them out of hiding (in the trunk of the 71) and hang one again and snap a lower pic...they do indeed sit above the pan, which impressed the owner of the red 74 T/A you can see parked out the front of my house in the above pic. The white truck in the drive belongs to my friend who helped with the engine build.
They both really liked the quality of these headers.

[NOT A TA]

Looks very nice Leigh! Be sure to use some sealer on the dry sump fitting plugs or they'll weep.

[aronhk_md]

Thanks again Leigh! I'm going to quote what you said here for the PY gang...positive, uninvested observer impressions are good for Ron.

[LeighP]

Looks very nice Leigh! Be sure to use some sealer on the dry sump fitting plugs or they'll weep.

Thanks John, they were just in there temporary to fill the holes and so I could check if there was any issue with the headers....none - tons of room. I'll teflon tape them before I drop the engine in.

[LeighP]

Been doing little bits and pieces till I get another day off.....dug out the Formula aircleaner and made up a blank for the heat stove pipe (not using it). Swapped the LH valve cover around which fixed my clearance issue with the aircleaner.
So I added a GTO's 455HO decal....cause I like them.... :grin: even though I know Firebirds didn't use them...who cares, not exactly stock here. :lol:
When I bought the aircleaner, they had a separate chrome cover for a few extra $, so I can swap out for a bit of bling if I feel like it.

Black
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Bling
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[LeighP]

Look what turned up in the mail from the US......Clayton Machine Works got their billet pedal and window winder assemblies to me, had to wait a bit, but it was worth it.....mmmm, sweet!!!!

Accelerator pedal is height adjustable as well...nice!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Should look good against a black interior.

[critter]

I'm digging the basic black on the air cleaner. And I see a set of those pedals in my future. :)

[aronhk_md]

I'm liking it too Chris. I also really like the way you detailed the timing tab and valve covers Leigh. Watching yours come together is making me very itchy to get to mine! lol. I got a new and bigger/better turbo.........sitting here staring at it and wondering if I should start sanding the aluminum to polish it................. :smoke:

[formula]

I thought the clayton gear was vaporware--glad to see they made it to production with them. Very cool pieces.

Always loved the big engine callouts like that--nice touch, sir!

[JBCO]

Those pedals look sweet! Excellent choice there.

[LeighP]

Thanks guys, yeah it was a bit of a wait for the pedals and winders....I guess there were some production issues, but they are very nice. Clay kept me up to date on what was happening, and nothing was charged till they were sent....so if anyone wants them, I wouldn't feel there'd be any issues.

[Doug1]

I am continually impressed with your build. You are getting a lot of bang for your buck! That is going to be a sweet ride.

[LeighP]

Thanks Doug...hope to have the engine and box in the chassis this weekend. Watch for more pics.

[OLDFLM]

Been doing little bits and pieces till I get another day off.....dug out the Formula aircleaner and made up a blank for the heat stove pipe (not using it). Swapped the LH valve cover around which fixed my clearance issue with the aircleaner.
So I added a GTO's 455HO decal....cause I like them.... :grin: even though I know Firebirds didn't use them...who cares, not exactly stock here. :lol:
When I bought the aircleaner, they had a separate chrome cover for a few extra $, so I can swap out for a bit of bling if I feel like it.

Black
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Bling
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

LOVE the Ram Air aircleaner! I want to run one of these on my car eventually... but cast iron grey (to match my block) with a custom billet lid and cf flat stock on the flat inlet extensions. Think anyone would notice a "440 HO" decal? LOL

[LeighP]

I think a 440HO decal would be very cool....certainly fit the theme of the car.

Was on nightshift, so the project for this afternoon was to join the engine and gearbox and fit the trans mount.....
Nice to have a hoist, I was able to put it together myself.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Found out that apparently, the bolts that hold the trans mount to the box are metric (found this out after screwing in a couple of UNC 3/8" bolts, one of which tore a couple of thread tops off)......who'd have though a TH350 would have metric threads in it? :roll: Easy enough to fix, even if I have to helicoil it, which I think I won't have to....just need the right bolts.

[aronhk_md]

Looking good Leigh. I see you have solid mounts......are they for the early bird style? What brand and where did you get em? Still unsure what I'm doing. I have a front plate from All Pontiac I might use if I have the room.

[LeighP]

The mounts are late 2nd gen Clamshell frame mounts with the matching F body engine brackets. The inserts in the clamshells are Energy Suspension polyurethane inserts - listed for a Chevy application...the only mod required is to cut off the small metal tabs that poke out at both ends (they foul the engine brackets on a Pontiac). My frame is a 75+ Camaro frame, so the holes were already there for the clamshells....otherwise you'd have to drill them from a template taken off a 75+ subframe. I'm also using the Energy Suspension poly trans mount as well.

I'll take another pic after the engine is in...to show where the headers sit in the chassis.

[LeighP]

What a weekend.......man, don't you hate it when someone sells you a part and says its definately for an F body....but it turns out it isn't?????

We got the engine all set up, it had all the mounts fitted including the polyurethane Energy Suspension inserts on the clamshell frame mounts.
We (Some friends came over to help) slipped the engine and box into the car without damaging anything (those engine sling levelers are worth their weight in gold).....dropped the engine onto its mounts, only to find out that the passenger side engine bracket was an F body bracket (lined up nicely) but the drivers side engine bracket must be off something else...an A or B body probably....it was near two inches off lining up...not even close.

So, since I'm at the end of a very long supply line here in Australia, and finding another F body specific engine bracket was very unlikely locally, I switched to Plan B.
I pulled the 71 mount brackets off the spare subframe, cleaned them up and painted them......luckily, the later 75+ Camaro subframe I'm using in my car was already drilled to accept the early mounts in their correct position.

So I spent the best part of one Saturday afternoon and the Sunday removing the clamshell mounts (not fun when there is suspension in the car) and fitting the 71 frame brackets.
I swapped on a set of new engine mounts that I already had in stock - but, of course, these 71 style mounts need a real long bolt....so I have to buy a couple on Monday.

While the engine was up in the air, I slipped the the Tri-Y headers on....they went on pretty good (as far as headers go, lol) and I'm using Remflex carbon gaskets so hopefully I won't have any leaks. I'm also using Stage 8 header bolts that have a locking system to stop them coming undone. I'll add the locks after we've test run the engine and I can recheck the bolts are still tight.

As if this wasn't enough, since I'm using a later 2nd gen subframe I had the later TH350 crossmember powder coated all ready to go.....I test fitted it only to find another mis-match issue when using early and late parts together.....the floor pan on a 70-74 body is too low and close to the subframe to let you fit the late model crossmember.
So, Plan C!!!!!!!
I cleaned up and painted the original 71 crossmember and fitted that.....I just have to slip under the car on my next day off and drill the four mounting holes for the early crossmember as the late subframe is not drilled for the early mounting position.

Other than that, I finished Sunday with the engine and box in the car, sitting on the mounts and just waiting for bolts......eh, its visual progress.

Heres some pics to see the engine and box going in.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Here you can see how much the drivers side engine mount bracket is out...the passenger side one was pretty much lined up.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Heres Plan B
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Plenty of clearance on the headers.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[LeighP]

This afternoon, managed to get to the bolt shop for the engine mount bolts....came home and jockeyed the engine around enough to get the bolts through...not too bad at all.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

So, I added solid body mounts and PTFB subframe connectors.....want to know how stiff the car is now? When I was pulling it off the stands, I took the stand out of one side then repositioned the jack to get the other one.....the car, with engine and box in, settled only a touch with the wheel on the side with no stand still well clear of the ground...awesome! No way my old stock 77 T/A would have held one wheel airborne while supported on the other side like that.

[LeighP]

I couldn't find the distributor clamp, so I had to drive across to a big warehouse that stocked Pontiac stuff and grabbed one. I ended up getting a universal set of MSD wires so that I could trim them to suit. Spent the afternoon cutting, crimping and testing the wires...all of them came up with the right resistance for the lengths...WIN!

Some pics...because everyone likes pics....

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[vtxman]

Leigh,
I have enjoyed watching your build. Can you provide information concerning your waterpump/alternator belt? I haven't seen one like that. It looks wider with ridges on the outside.

I like it.

Dave

[dusterbd13]

leigh: i love the look of your valve covers/motor. mind if i steal the idea for my mopar?

[LeighP]

Hi,

Its a DAYCO brand belt - marked "Top Cog Gold Label". I didn't buy it, it came with the accessory brackets that I bought as a set off Nitemare Performance since I didn't have any matching brackets.



I have enjoyed watching your build. Can you provide information concerning your waterpump/alternator belt? I haven't seen one like that. It looks wider with ridges on the outside.

I like it.

Dave

[LeighP]

Hi Michael,
Feel free, I'm sure I first saw that "look" on someone else's old school hot rod or custom back in the 70's. lol.


leigh: i love the look of your valve covers/motor. mind if i steal the idea for my mopar?

[SD455]

I couldn't find the distributor clamp, so I had to drive across to a big warehouse that stocked Pontiac stuff and grabbed one. I ended up getting a universal set of MSD wires so that I could trim them to suit. Spent the afternoon cutting, crimping and testing the wires...all of them came up with the right resistance for the lengths...WIN!

Some pics...because everyone likes pics....

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Leigh,

Great build! What are you using for spark plug wire holders? They look really excellent,and I am currently replacing my wires. keep up the good work mate!

[LeighP]

I'm not sure exactly where I picked those lead holders up....been sitting in their packet in my parts stack for maybe 5 years or so. I think they're your typical "made in China" generic two piece lead holders...they have plenty of room for 8.5mm leads, so I guess they'd have no problem with 9mm leads as well.
I like the MSD leads, plenty of length in the "universal" pack and extra spare end fittings etc...easy to assemble if you take your time and check the crimp and resistance on each one as you go.
On no. 7 lead, I replaced the regular straight lead end at the plug with one of the spare 90 degree ends...its pretty tight in there.

[LeighP]

Had one of those annoying issues the other day that you get when you mix parts from different manufacturers....seems the production tolerances on my SFI flex plate and my Torque Converter ganged up on me.....the two PCDs were very slightly out of alignment.
Of course, this was something I didn't check and correct before assembly so I had some fun, on my back under the car with a dremel and a rotary burr slightly clearancing the flex plate holes....all three bolts are in and tight. Darned glad I didn't have to pull the gearbox out or something.

Was doing some small bits and pieces today...sorting out where to mount the coil and position the remote oil filter. I fitted up the shifter and got the cable rigged and set up. Works nice.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

And before you ask...yes, there are a couple of reasons why the shifter is leaning to the left.
1. It lines the cable up to run cleanly through the factory hole without having to enlarge it.
2. I like the way it leans the shifter closer to where I sit....places the shifter ball right under my hand close to my leg....and since I'm building a custom console, it didn't really matter where the shifter is actually fitted.

[aronhk_md]

That looks SO good Leigh. Tell me about the custom console you are planning? I'd like to do one too. Would love to have a couple of cup holders, and a custom gauge pod (turbo...lots of gauges). Not sure whether I want to include the original arm rest lid and inner compartment.

[LeighP]

I'm planning a console that will drop down off the dash with a flat face for a double DIN stereo with navigation. It'll run all the way to the back (two pieces for easier fitting - split at the back of the front seats) and I'll mount the fire extinguisher on the top of it behind the front seats....arm rests front and rear....LED footwell lights in the back seat area on the sides of the console. If it works out that theres room in the front between the shifter and the arm rest, I'll mount a drink holder for me there - the passenger gets to hold their own, lol.
I was going to use an MDF frame and sheet alloy skin (covered in seat matching upholstery), but I've found this synthetic sheet material made for kitchen cupboards...water proof, heat proof, doesn't burn and its strong and light.....I'll use that to form the frame and epoxy and screw it all together.

[aronhk_md]

Sounds very interesting Leigh! Cant wait to see it. I have this HUGE roll of very thin fiberglass material sitting on a pallet. Probably enough to build a good sized boat. lol. I think I am going to try to make a mold for my design, and then I have a friend who works with fiberglass and he can hopefully help me one evening lay it down. Still its likely to be a winter project at this point. Going to extend it back like you are, but since my rollcage makes it tough to sit back there anyway (they can, but you have to slide under the cage bar) I'm not too concerned with creature comforts back there and will likely use it to mount speakers. Hopefully tweeters up front too.

[LeighP]

Another day of tinkering...between putting my feet up and enjoying a nice Sunday at home... :-D

Got the accelerator pedal in and mounted - its an aftermarket piece so it wasn't just a matter of bolting it in and going. That let me set up the Lokar cables for the carby.
I'm going to adopt a saying I heard from another thread here.....
"Anything sold as "bolt-in", isn't!"

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

As of 21 August, this is what I'm up to -
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[Doug1]

Nice work as always Leigh. It won't be too long before you are crusing. That is turning out to be one sweet ride!