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    Results 1 to 13 of 13
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jan 2005
      Location
      Netherlands
      Posts
      1,012

      Coil springs losing tension!

      Guys i have been blasting 3300 miles sins the finish of my road straat racer sins Oct last year. at first the car was very stable in the suspention departmend.
      But lately i feel that my Hodkish 2 inch drop coils are getting softer!!.
      when doing some serius speeds on the highway i drive over fade bumps and my exsaust hits the tarmac.
      i also feel the car is droping to mutch when driving over theses fade bumps in the road, the stace is the same nothing wrong with that.
      i use the SBC coils because my pontiac engine hase alu heads alu manifold ecetera. haveing said that the normal weight of a pontiac engine is right inbetween a sbc and a bbc. there was some stuff aded under de hood but the nose and hood are from fibreglass.
      so im starting to think i might need the bbc coils, any particulair brand and tension i should consider???. the rear hase 2 inch drop DSE leafs de firm not harse type....



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      I don't think that it is very common for coil springs to lose their rate. What bushings do you have in the control arms? Are they still the factory rubber or are they something else?
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    3. #3
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      IL/TN
      Posts
      908
      Country Flag: United States
      coils will not change rate but they will sag, the distance between the coils get smaller making the spring shorter, the bushings will also get looser regardless of the type of bushing, as far as springs I would look at 650-700#
      https://www.protouringf-body.com "doing what they say can't be done"

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Jan 2005
      Location
      Netherlands
      Posts
      1,012
      the car is equipt with all the goodies mini tubt everyting.. so do you sell the 700 rate for First gen.......

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Jul 2005
      Location
      Den Helder, the Netherlands
      Posts
      1,148
      Country Flag: Netherlands

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 79T/Aman View Post
      the bushings will also get looser regardless of the type of bushing
      Yup, you loose the extra little bit of effective spring rate when the bushings loosen up. The factory rubber is especially bad for adding a bit of spring rate, moreso than the others.
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    7. #7
      Join Date
      Jan 2005
      Location
      Netherlands
      Posts
      1,012
      Guys Koni schoks and the car was alredy on its feet for2 years with al the stuf installed. it now hase 3300 miles on it and at first it was very stif but now its losening up, and bounses more douwards. i gues ading a thing ore 2 here and there under the hood made the coils to light for this aplication.
      so who hase the best 2 inch drop BBS coils for a first gen racer

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Aug 2005
      Location
      Patterson, NY
      Posts
      784
      If the nose of the car is stall at the right height then the springs are fine. I would blame the shocks.
      That is assuming that everything was fine before all the driving.

      Since you say that it bounces downwards more, but had been stiffer, I think it's the shocks.

      Springs support the weight, while shocks control the movement. It sounds like you are lacking that control.
      Jason Scheer

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      IL/TN
      Posts
      908
      Country Flag: United States
      agree, check the shocks, it sounds like the shocks are getting soft, the sprigs still have to hold the same total weight, but it also sounds as if you may have added weight to the front, is this correct? if so then more spring rate may also be needed
      https://www.protouringf-body.com "doing what they say can't be done"

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      stanwood, wa
      Posts
      324
      a pontiac motor with alluminium heads and intake weighs the same as a sbc. That with the fiberglass parts you should be fine with the springs. Sounds more like a shock problem to me. And I'm talking about an all iron small block which is what I believe the springs are based on.

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Jan 2005
      Location
      Netherlands
      Posts
      1,012
      Formula 73 i knew all that but thanks anyway to point it out, i did instal a havey halve inch thick billed alu valve cuvers.
      This winter a variable lifter rocker system will FINALLY be instaled this ads another 25/30 lbs under de hood. have 3 ecstra oil radiator up front dubble remote oil filters with long hoses all sorts of stuf that thuse ad a little weight.
      shocks are brand new koni,s haveing driven 3300 miles to date might have loosen the parts a bit up in a way they should behave afther the running in time????.
      In anny case i need stronger 2 inch drop coils. for sure. i was thinking going for the same Hoskish 2 inch drop coils but for BBC. anny other sirgestions!!!!!...

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Oct 2008
      Location
      Santa Fe Springs, CA
      Posts
      625
      Some pretty good advice in here already. In 15 years the only springs we've ever had come back losing tensile strength were when the owner tried to powdercoat them or got them hot with a torch. More likely you have a defective set of shocks, OR you've been adding extra weight to the car which is lower ride height and causing it to bottom out more easily. We just released new lower front 2" coils for your 1st gen that will do the trick, and they're a bit firmer for autocross competition.

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Aug 2006
      Location
      Cibolo, TX
      Posts
      189
      Quote Originally Posted by Roadrage David View Post
      Guys Koni schoks and the car was alredy on its feet for2 years with al the stuf installed. it now hase 3300 miles on it and at first it was very stif but now its losening up, and bounses more douwards. i gues ading a thing ore 2 here and there under the hood made the coils to light for this aplication.
      so who hase the best 2 inch drop BBS coils for a first gen racer
      David - just slow down (betje langsam) for the "drempels" and you should be okay!
      87 Turbo T: Precision 5857 Billet Wheel turbo, PTE Turbosaver, Razor's Progressive Alky, Red's XP fuel pump hotwired, Accufab AFPR, TurboTweak 93/94 chip, Scanmaster 2.1, 9 inch K&N filter, aluminum driveshaft, 160 thermostat, 3 inch Terry Houston downpipe with dump, DMH electric exhaust cut-out, TH 2.5 inch exhaust with Magnaflows, RJC powerplate, torque strap, Dutt neck stock intercooler, LT1 MAF, Translator Plus, Digi-Tails LED sequential tail lights, Eaton posi, TA Performance rear end girdle

      Simmons wheels: 17x8.5 front (4.32" backspacing) with 235/45/17s Vredestein Sessentas, 17x9 rear (4.75 backspacing) with 275/40/17s, SC&C Street Comp Stage 2 kit (adjustable upper control arms, Howe tall upper and lower ball joints, S10 Xtreme lower control arm bump stops), 13 inch Baer front brakes, S10 rear wheel cylinders




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