Enter your username:
Do you want to login or register?
  • Forgot your password?

    Login / Register




    Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
    Results 1 to 20 of 35
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Aug 2009
      Location
      Crofton, MD
      Posts
      160

      Alignment problems with Speed Tech control arms

      I recently installed Speed Tech upper and lower control arms on my 1980 Z28, along with Summit Racing 1-1/2" lowering springs. I took it to two different alignment places and they are saying they can't align it because even with the shaft offset correctly and no shims, the camber is still off (top of the wheels still tilted in).

      I tried calling Speed Tech, but the guy I need to talk to is out all week...

      Anyone else have this problem? I hope there is a good answer after dropping so much of my hard-earned money on these parts...


      GM EFI Tuner
      1980 Z28 Pro-touring project - sold
      2002 Trans Am 9.41 at 143mph on pump gas and drag radials - sold


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      Henderson,NV
      Posts
      2,870
      Country Flag: United States
      How much negative camber does it have with no shims?
      Todd

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Location
      St George Utah
      Posts
      1,243
      Country Flag: United States
      These arms have been installed on hundreds of cars, with no issues, except and i'm not pointing fingers or making excuses but the alignment shop has no idea what they are doing or the frame is bent. they always fit in the end.
      i received your email but it ended up in the junk box, voice mail sent.
      thank you for choosing our product.
      call me any time
      Blake Foster
      www.speedtechperformance.com
      435-628-4300
      St. George Utah.
      it's always sunny here.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      <deleted>
      Last edited by John Wright; 08-26-2009 at 08:52 AM. Reason: rep for company chimed in to take care of the problem
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    5. #5
      Join Date
      Aug 2009
      Location
      Crofton, MD
      Posts
      160
      Quote Originally Posted by killer69 View Post
      These arms have been installed on hundreds of cars, with no issues, except and i'm not pointing fingers or making excuses but the alignment shop has no idea what they are doing or the frame is bent. they always fit in the end.
      i received your email but it ended up in the junk box, voice mail sent.
      thank you for choosing our product.
      call me any time
      I called and they said I need to talk to Roger (and he is out all week). I'll give you a ring in a bit Blake! I agree that it is probably the alignment shop, but after two, I was starting to wonder...

      GM EFI Tuner
      1980 Z28 Pro-touring project - sold
      2002 Trans Am 9.41 at 143mph on pump gas and drag radials - sold

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Aug 2009
      Location
      Crofton, MD
      Posts
      160
      Thanks again Blake for the help! You guys have outstanding customer service! I will set the toe like we talked about and send you some pics... I'll get it to the other alignment shop next week as well and see what they can do...

      GM EFI Tuner
      1980 Z28 Pro-touring project - sold
      2002 Trans Am 9.41 at 143mph on pump gas and drag radials - sold

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Mar 2008
      Location
      Everett, WA
      Posts
      501
      Good ol' Speed Tech. I love my control arms.
      The few, the proud, the crazy... the LT1 owners.

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Aug 2009
      Location
      Crofton, MD
      Posts
      160
      Snapped a couple of quick pics to show the camber and stance. It seems like the driver's side is straight, but the passenger side is still negative camber. Sorry about the shadows, this was spur of the moment.

      I think I want the back down another 1/2" or so...




      GM EFI Tuner
      1980 Z28 Pro-touring project - sold
      2002 Trans Am 9.41 at 143mph on pump gas and drag radials - sold

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      Is it me or do you have a ton of caster in on the pass side, wheel looks like it is about to rub the rear of the fender liner just sitting there without turning the steering wheel....maybe it's just the lighting in the pic..I dunno. If you go too far with the positive caster the camber gets way out of whack, too far to adjust...unless the arms have a fair amount of caster built in to them.
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    10. #10
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      So. Cal.
      Posts
      1,240
      Country Flag: United States
      Im missing something. No shims installed. Cant it be shimmed out to give a proper camber? JR

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      Henderson,NV
      Posts
      2,870
      Country Flag: United States
      You can run .5-1 degree of negative camber on the street with no problem at all. I agree that the passenger side caster looks waaaaaaaaaay off.
      Todd

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Mar 2008
      Posts
      952
      Quote Originally Posted by JRouche View Post
      Im missing something. No shims installed. Cant it be shimmed out to give a proper camber? JR
      shims move the arm in- it would only make it worse.

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Aug 2009
      Location
      Crofton, MD
      Posts
      160
      All shims are removed in the pics... and yes, shimming makes the camber more negative. Also, the toe is way out in the pics - with the drivers side wheel straight, the passenger side is visibly turning right (making it closer to the rear inner fender). I need to tape measure set the toe to get it somewhat close first... I'm hoping that brings the passenger side caster a little better. The arms have 5 degrees of caster built in.

      Wondering if worn out and crushed body mount bushings could be adding to my issues... those are the only things left that I have not replaced. It doesn't appear that the car has been wrecked, but who knows...

      GM EFI Tuner
      1980 Z28 Pro-touring project - sold
      2002 Trans Am 9.41 at 143mph on pump gas and drag radials - sold

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by JRouche View Post
      Im missing something. No shims installed. Cant it be shimmed out to give a proper camber? JR
      The shaft mounts inside the frame rails so more shims makes the camber head off in the wrong direction than he's trying to go. Other cars where the shaft is mounted outside of the frame rails the shims would do as you suggest and move the camber in his direction. But this is a camaro.
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    15. #15
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      Also get underneath and take a 5/8" dia dowel or bolt and see if the body alignment holes are aligned so the dowel enters all of them with about the same. That can help you make sure the body is sitting on the subframe fairly square. Body bushings have to be loosened upand body adjusted and squared up if those dowels won't enter the holes cleanly.
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    16. #16
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      So. Cal.
      Posts
      1,240
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by John Wright View Post
      The shaft mounts inside the frame rails so more shims makes the camber head off in the wrong direction than he's trying to go. Other cars where the shaft is mounted outside of the frame rails the shims would do as you suggest and move the camber in his direction. But this is a camaro.
      LOL I knew I was missing something. Thanks. My shafts are on vertical plates, shimming moves the top of the spindle out. As you can see, I dont know jack about camaros JR

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Washington, MO
      Posts
      2,363
      Are you sure its not the lowering springs causing the trouble?

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Aug 2009
      Posts
      352
      Nice car! I am very interested in how it turns out. I am fixing to order a set for my 81 z28.

    19. #19
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      Henderson,NV
      Posts
      2,870
      Country Flag: United States
      Yep...your toe needs to be close to start. Otherwise, the average wrench will straigten the wheel and go to town. A tape measure is close enough.
      Todd

    20. #20
      Join Date
      Aug 2009
      Location
      Crofton, MD
      Posts
      160
      Quote Originally Posted by Tony_SS View Post
      Are you sure its not the lowering springs causing the trouble?
      They aren't helping, that's for sure. Do the coil springs need some time to settle in?

      Hopefully I will get a chance to work on it this weekend and see how it is with the toe straightened out a bit.

      The biggest problem with working on a 30 year old car is that the more you pull the string, the more you have to do LOL! I'm thinking I should replace the body mount bushings next.

      I'm trying to get all of the variables (spring settling, rear ride height) worked out before I take it in for the alignment...

      GM EFI Tuner
      1980 Z28 Pro-touring project - sold
      2002 Trans Am 9.41 at 143mph on pump gas and drag radials - sold

    Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast



    Advertise on Pro-Touring.com