E brake levers

[rsk68]

so what are you guys using for an ebrake lever, I have the Lokar lever and it dosnt work worth a $$$$, it actually broke on me with very little use, seems a little short also so leverage is an issue, i would realy like to change it to something that could use the same double cables, any ideas?

[JRouche]

I also have the lokar. Not broke yet, what broke on it. And leverage does seem like crap with this thing. Luckily I have discs in the back and they grab pretty good. But the leverage with that arm is lousy. JR

[rsk68]

not sure what is exactly broke on it, it gets stuck in the upright position and when i get it unstuck the thumb button dosnt work, i give it a little pull to the side and it works again, real crap or just a bad unit?

[parsonsj]

I'm using one too. I can't say I've had any better luck. I've messed with it many times trying to figure what I'm doing wrong.

At this point, if I put a big ole' two handed manly pull, my car will stay put on level ground. I've called Lokar and Wilwood... no satisfaction in either place.

I'd love to have another option.

jp

[gearheads78]

I used my stock pedal in my a-body. Its works excellent. It was also very easy to make work.

[dhutton]

I used the lever out of a 4th gen F body. I also used the LS1 rear discs, cables and console so it all worked well together.

[ProdigyCustoms]

I have always wanted to try a handle from a C4 Corvette. They have some length to them, they ratchet up and lay back down when set, then to release you pull it up and squeeze the button to release.

[PhillipM]

I fixed the leverage problem with mine by taking it apart and adding a longer handle to it. I haven't used it yet though so I can't say how well it works. I add about 5" to it though.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/10/DSC00629Small-1.jpg

[blackwidow]

i used one from a honda and the cables from the same honda. cut the cables down, welded on a stop at the end works vary good mike

[JRouche]

That will fix the short arm leverage issues. Looks good. Any build pics? Is it a chrome tube? Or are you gonna paint it? I like my arm, it holds, and I dont have to do the major two hand grip. Im just used to the honda arm and the feel of it. Like I can pull and pull and it gets tighter and tighter. With the lokar when it hits the pads its not moving anymore. Maybe that extra 5 inches will give the leverage I like. Thanks. JR



I fixed the leverage problem with mine by taking it apart and adding a longer handle to it. I haven't used it yet though so I can't say how well it works. I add about 5" to it though.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/10/DSC00629Small-1.jpg

[Z06vet]

Id like to see some pics of the 4th gen. if you have any showing it mounted on the tunnel and also with the console installed, that would be great. [email protected]
Scott

[JEM]

You might check out the assembly from a '98ish-early-2000s Saturn, it's worked for me on another (not F-body) project. I'm told some later ones have leather-wrapped handles, mine's plastic.

[PhillipM]

That will fix the short arm leverage issues. Looks good. Any build pics? Is it a chrome tube? Or are you gonna paint it? I like my arm, it holds, and I dont have to do the major two hand grip. Im just used to the honda arm and the feel of it. Like I can pull and pull and it gets tighter and tighter. With the lokar when it hits the pads its not moving anymore. Maybe that extra 5 inches will give the leverage I like. Thanks. JR

No it isn't chrome but it could have been chromed if someone wanted it to be. I will be painting mine black and probably adding some heat shrinking for the grip. The tube is a piece of 1" .120 wall tubing that I had left over from my roll cage build. It (hammer) fit perfectly over the top of the original tube. I basically took the original one apart to find that the button was hooked to the release lever with a piece of all thread. So, knowing that I could just lenthen this piece with a new longer piece of all thread I cut the end of the original handle off about 1.5" back from the button. This allowed me to keep the original button and the flange that is hooks into. I drilled a hole on the under side the new lengthened handle and plug welded the end of the original handle with the button flange into it. Then I cut the new handle in the back to match the slash cut and then hammered it on the original, and tack welded it in place with a plug weld on the rear portion to hold it still. So the original handle is still inside of the new piece and gives a nice long leverage area to pull on. As you can see a little bit I also welded plate into the floor to extend the area that I will be pulling on. The front plate is covered by the new tunnel portion but is about 8" long. If you have any other questions or something is missing just let me know.

[JRouche]

Ok? Now I like your thinking already!! You kept it simple and completely doable. Im saving this post, I may need a "helper bar" fix in the future. Bet you can get plenty of cable stretch now and get that solid locking feel. And the heavy cables they provide can easily take a lil more tension. Thanks for taking the time to explain it all. KEEPER!! JR



No it isn't chrome but it could have been chromed if someone wanted it to be. I will be painting mine black and probably adding some heat shrinking for the grip. The tube is a piece of 1" .120 wall tubing that I had left over from my roll cage build. It (hammer) fit perfectly over the top of the original tube. I basically took the original one apart to find that the button was hooked to the release lever with a piece of all thread. So, knowing that I could just lenthen this piece with a new longer piece of all thread I cut the end of the original handle off about 1.5" back from the button. This allowed me to keep the original button and the flange that is hooks into. I drilled a hole on the under side the new lengthened handle and plug welded the end of the original handle with the button flange into it. Then I cut the new handle in the back to match the slash cut and then hammered it on the original, and tack welded it in place with a plug weld on the rear portion to hold it still. So the original handle is still inside of the new piece and gives a nice long leverage area to pull on. As you can see a little bit I also welded plate into the floor to extend the area that I will be pulling on. The front plate is covered by the new tunnel portion but is about 8" long. If you have any other questions or something is missing just let me know.

[parsonsj]

Back to the Lokar lever: I did find some evidence that adjusting your cables so that the brakes don't begin to get tight until about 4 clicks was how the Lokar was designed. That means that a fully engaged brake would have the lever pointing straight up or slightly past that. I can't do that since my console design needs to be re-done, and I haven't gotten to that yet. (I need my interior guy to make a boot... )

jp

[camaro2nv]

Back to the Lokar lever: I did find some evidence that adjusting your cables so that the brakes don't begin to get tight until about 4 clicks was how the Lokar was designed. That means that a fully engaged brake would have the lever pointing straight up or slightly past that. I can't do that since my console design needs to be re-done, and I haven't gotten to that yet. (I need my interior guy to make a boot... )

jp
Momo makes a boot that just might work. I used it on my last build. Ill try and did up a link.

[novaderrik]

Chevy Monzas and Vegas had a handle that looks good in older cars.

[Larry Callahan]

No way to put the stock one back in?

[PhillipM]

No way to put the stock one back in?

If it is like my car then the cage is in the way of the stock one..

[rsk68]

larry,

I think the old foot operated ebrake mounted partialy to the firewall, I have plugged up any mount holes that would of been used, knowing what I know now I would of left it stock.

[JRouche]

Back to the Lokar lever: I did find some evidence that adjusting your cables so that the brakes don't begin to get tight until about 4 clicks was how the Lokar was designed. That means that a fully engaged brake would have the lever pointing straight up or slightly past that. I can't do that since my console design needs to be re-done, and I haven't gotten to that yet. (I need my interior guy to make a boot... )

jp

Hmm, I can kinda see how that would help, just seat of the pants feeling. If its engaging too far down its not into the circle of the "lever" action yet. As you get past the 45* point (from horizontal) you are into the later part of the 90* lever action, more produced force, less cable movement. Very interesting. Cause I have mine set to fully engage during the first 45*, bout 3 inches off horizontal. Wow really, straight up or even past. So it would be a floppy noodle for the first 45* then engage. Ok, crap, you guys are giving me more useful info than I deserve. Thanks again. Im gonna see if I even have that much cable to play with but it sounds totally right. And if I cant "swing" it I still like the helper bar. JR

[Lance-W]

larry,

I think the old foot operated ebrake mounted partialy to the firewall, I have plugged up any mount holes that would of been used, knowing what I know now I would of left it stock.

The holes as I remember it are almost behind the fender so it wouldn't be very visible that you had them there and mess up your clean firewall. All you would need is a pattern from someone that has a car apart and drill them from the passenger compartment side.

[Jim Nilsen]

I have always wanted to try a handle from a C4 Corvette. They have some length to them, they ratchet up and lay back down when set, then to release you pull it up and squeeze the button to release.

Hey Frank, I was going to put one of those in my car and decided to go with the stock one since I didn't have a problem with my cage being in the way.

I'll sell it for $25 if you want to give it a try.

The fact that they go back down when engaged is a real plus.