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    Results 1 to 16 of 16
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Mar 2008
      Location
      Everett, WA
      Posts
      501

      1969 Nova, front wheel/tire fitment - help!

      I need some help wheel and tire gurus! I'm stuffing 18's under my Nova, and having no luck getting them to work. The car itself has been lowered 2" in the front, 1.5" in the rear with a complete Hotchkis TVS kit - including the TVS tuned Bilsteins. Wheel specs: ghetto IROC knock-offs, 18x8 with 4.5" BS. Tire specs: Kumho 245/40/18s. I tried 245/45s... wayyyy too tall.

      Keep in mind, these ugly wheels are my "around the shop" rollers that I picked up for $200. Curbed, peeling, and all around just not my style... but I think they saved me a ton of cash on my new wheels by pointing out that 4.5" BS on an 18x8 ain't gonna work with a 245/40 tire.




      As you can see, its rubbing on the rear of the wheel wells. This rubbing happens on both the inside and outside of the tire when turning either left or right. I'm wondering what will help or hurt:

      • Increasing the BS (I think this is the right thing to do) to 4.875 or *gulp* 5"
      • Going to a 35 series tire? I'd prefer not to have a rubber band for a tire
      • Goind to a 7" wide rim (would rather not) with a 235 or 225 width
      • Take my purse off, and beat in the wheel wells with a deadblow hammer for a little more clearance
      From what I've read, my current set-up should work on a slightly lowered Nova such as mine... but real life is not the same as what you read on the internet...

      The few, the proud, the crazy... the LT1 owners.


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Mar 2008
      Location
      Everett, WA
      Posts
      501
      Nobody wants to chime in? C'mon, I can't be the first one that has run into this...
      The few, the proud, the crazy... the LT1 owners.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Apr 2005
      Location
      Chattanooga, TN
      Posts
      77
      Have you changed your brakes on the front also? That could have you out a little farther than stock-sometimes up to .25 to .50 inch. 8's are a little funny on those cars, you need more backspacing, but you have to be careful about hitting suspension parts when you put in that backspacing. I know everyone is into the widest possible--but 7's work well on those cars!!

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Mar 2008
      Location
      Everett, WA
      Posts
      501
      Yes! Good question. I've swapped over to SSBC Force 10 front brakes as part of a disc conversion package.

      If I were to switch to a 7" wide wheel, what tire is the right one to roll with? A 235/40? I'd prefer it to not baloon out past the rim, nor look like it's stretched to the max...

      Thanks for the post!
      The few, the proud, the crazy... the LT1 owners.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Apr 2005
      Location
      Chattanooga, TN
      Posts
      77
      If you can handle 25in of height, I like a 235/45-17 its 9in wide and looks good! If not I would go with a 225/45-17. Call if I can help you in any way!!

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Mar 2008
      Location
      Everett, WA
      Posts
      501
      Well... if there is any way that you can kick Vintage Wheel Works in the arse to get them to finally come out with 18's on their V40 wheels... *groan*

      You convince them to finally produce them, I'll buy them from ya.
      The few, the proud, the crazy... the LT1 owners.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Posts
      567
      Id go 5" BS or if you got room till it hits the tie rod, 5 1/4"
      Nathan Shaw
      71 Nova, 1000+whp 5.3, 8 second autoXer.

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Nov 2001
      Location
      St. Cloud, MN
      Posts
      376
      Country Flag: United States
      On my 71 I'm running 18 X 8's with a 40MM offset with a 235/50R18 cuz that's what the tire shop had used and cheap. I get just a bit of rubbing on the frame when I turn hard left I think it was. (Haven't driven yet) LS1 brake conversion, probably needs alignment, Hotchkis 1907 springs and 2207 swaybar.
      Jon
      71 Nova LT1/4L60E

    9. #9
      Join Date
      May 2002
      Location
      Northern California
      Posts
      10,716
      Country Flag: United States
      You could....

      check your alignment and find out what your caster reading is. Reduce to gain clearence

      Loosen your subframe and slide it forward, set your alignment.

      modify your wells to fit.

      get rims that fit.
      MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε


    10. #10
      Join Date
      Mar 2008
      Location
      Everett, WA
      Posts
      501
      Quote Originally Posted by MrQuick View Post
      You could....

      check your alignment and find out what your caster reading is. Reduce to gain clearence

      Loosen your subframe and slide it forward, set your alignment.

      modify your wells to fit.

      get rims that fit.
      Oh, I know the alignment is screwed. I made sure of that when I fully rebuilt the suspension with Moog components, Hotchkis suspension, and SpeedTech control arms!

      Subframe... ugh... don't want to. I set it in there using the factory wheelbase specs, and the Alston method for squaring up the frame. Plus, the exhaust, steering box, drivetrain, etc are all in place. No thanks.

      Wheel wells... I might "massage" them with a deadblow hammer just a bit to get me rolling down the road for now.

      Rims. Hell yeah! Waiting for the VWW V40's to come out in 18s... waiting... I may have to settle for something else.
      The few, the proud, the crazy... the LT1 owners.

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Aug 2003
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      8,745
      The Speedtech arms add caster which pushed the wheel back in the wheel opening a bit. Increased caster is a good thing, but too much causes issue to and yours look like it is alot right now. Get the alignment done first. I would go to 4.875 BS and get a alignment, and use the 245/40/18 tires.

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Mar 2008
      Location
      Everett, WA
      Posts
      501
      Sounds like I need to tow this thing down to an alignment shop... 'cause I sure as heck ain't gonna be able to drive it there.

      Question: how do I reduce the caster enough to get it so I can drive the car? My alignment shop is only 1/2 mile away. Toe in/out is set by the tie rods, camber in/out is by adding/removing shims... how is caster set?
      The few, the proud, the crazy... the LT1 owners.

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Aug 2003
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      8,745
      but adding more shims to the front or rear bolt move the wheel fore and aft.

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Mar 2008
      Location
      Everett, WA
      Posts
      501
      Quote Originally Posted by ProdigyCustoms View Post
      but adding more shims to the front or rear bolt move the wheel fore and aft.
      Gotcha! Let me try jamming some more shims in the front.
      The few, the proud, the crazy... the LT1 owners.

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Sep 2008
      Location
      Southaven, MS
      Posts
      38
      Hey 69LT1 what size are you running in the rear?
      69sleeper

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Mar 2008
      Location
      Everett, WA
      Posts
      501
      245/45/18s on the rear. Not really pushing the width limits by any stretch of the imagination. I think the 45 series on the rear gives it the right look on tire height.



      But... with these cheap azz IROC wheels with only 4.5" BS... the meats are flirting with danger! I'm rolling the fenders as we speak.



      This ain't gonna cut it when I get my rear disc conversion installed.
      The few, the proud, the crazy... the LT1 owners.




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