cracked 4 bar bushing

[GRNOVA]

:confused: What could have caused this ? This is a pic of my ART four bar bushing (sleeve)https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[andrewb70]

Are you referring to the sleeve inside the bushing?

Andrew

[GRNOVA]

yes

[andrewb70]

yes

I don't know for sure, but I would not be surprised if the inner tubes were split like that to begin with. Looks like a very clean, straight "crack."

Andrew

[GRNOVA]

Sorry pic is a little big. When I pulled the drive shaft I also noticed that the rear has hit the floorboard. Also that the pinion angle is -5 and the engine is -3. Shouldn't the pinion be +3 or +4?The red lines are the cracks I was talking about.https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gifhttps://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[BrianP]

It looks like the bushing doesn't have enough give to allow the suspension to swivel and move about so it is binding and cracking instead. Here's a visualization demo: grab a broom handle with both hands palms down. Place your elbows at your side with your arms sticking straight forward. Pretend your arms are links and the broom handle is the axle. Now raise one hand about two inches like as if you hit a bump in the road. Notice how both wrists have to twist and that your arm will not go straight up and down but in an arc relative to the other hand. I hope that helps explain why you need a bushing with some give to them (like rubber) to allow this kind of movement instead of a hard bushing (like plastic or polyurethane):smoke:
Brian

[GRNOVA]

KQM052...These are steel inserts in a rubber a bushing. But I do see what you are saying, maybe this was too tight and instead of moving it just cracked. I will call Airride Tuesday. As far as the pinion angle is concerned if the tran. is down 3* then the pinion should be up 3* to have correct pinion setting does this sound right?

[JRouche]

Hey Tim. I see the long split on the inner sleeve, I think that is supposed to be there. I have some out right now and there is a line showing its a split sleeve. On mine the joint is tight though, where yours looks like it has spread abit.

But whats confusing for me is inside the bore, at the back end on yer pic, where you show all the obvious cracks. What is that?? Isnt it a through hole for a bolt. The pic is deceiving for me. It looks like there is a solid (was solid till it cracked) "plug" like item? I cant make out what that cracked area is??

I could see the sleeve spreading and opening up the joint if the bolt wasnt tightened down enough. They need to be pretty tight so the saw tooth end bites into the mounts causing it, the sleeve, to be immobile while the rubber takes the rotating action, and there is all the rotational binding we all hear about with rubber bushings.

But to be honest, I dont see the issue. Rubber bushings are so compliant it only takes a lil hand pressure to move the control arm or trailing link through its entire working (road travel) travel I dont see it as an issue.

But anyway. Ummm, whats the cracked surface in the pic at the far end of the bore? JR

[79T/Aman]

can't tell much from the out of focus pics

[GRNOVA]

I am sorry about the out of focus pic but I took several and this was the best one. see if the video helps.https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://s300.photobucket.com/albums/nn13/tnt342/?action=view&current=100_1417.flv)

[JRouche]

Holy crap!!! That sleeve is severely fractured!!!! Im on my desk top computer now (lap top last night) and can actually see what it is.

The entire sleeve has shattered.. Dude!! That looks like a material heat treating quality control issue. No matter what, that metal should not have fractured like that.

If the tempering process was not adhered to then it may be overly hard (BRITTLE). I have a full on hardness testing and heat treating setup here. Id love to check that sleeve. Bet its on the high side. Id like to see what the manufacture spec'ed out for the final tempered hardness. If they speak english that is :)

Never know where some parts come from. Could be assembled in the US with overseas parts. And dont even get me wrong, nuthing wrong with that, sometimes. But I have found QC can goe out the door after the first part left with the customer.

Like to hear what ART has to say. Im sure they will stand good with their product. JR

[GRNOVA]

Well I don't want to start another post since I have the same problem as I had in May CRACKED bushings on my air 4 link ends. I need to find a heim joint that I can press into the bar ends. Anyone have any ideas.

[LowBuckX]

to start press out the rubber bush and get some measurments..

[Bryce]

the COM series spherical eyes may be what you are looking for.

[Vegas69]

My guess would be that the rubber was fatigued enough that it wasn't adequately supporting the sleeve. It's very possible the sleeve was binding on the outside housing. I changed over to a QA1 kevlar endlink after tearing up a couple bushings identical to those. I replaced my upper arms all together and cut off the axle ends and tapped them for new end links. I could tell the rear end was able to articulate easier the first time I drove the car.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/07/0022-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/07/0035-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/07/0053-1.jpg

[ProdigyCustoms]

This is what we do the the Prodigy Bar ends.

As Todd said, you can cut and tap the rods 3/4 X16, the DOM tub is the perfect size for this. besides totally liberating the rear end movement, you also can get some wheelbase adjustability and easier pinion angle adjustment. We do this on our 4 link kits (Prodigy Bar) at the factory and call it our swivel end kit. Here is exactly what we do. We have the parts in a kit including the taps for $240 or you can get them on your own under these part numbers

Rod Ends

(4) QA1 XMR10-12 XMR
(2) QA1 XML10-12

Jam nuts

(4) JNR 12S
(2) JNL 12S

Spacers

(16) SG 108

Taps

3/4 X 16 Right Hand
3/4 X 16 Left Hand

[GRNOVA]

to start press out the rubber bush and get some measurments..

here are the measurements:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[GRNOVA]

This is what we do the the Prodigy Bar ends.

As Todd said, you can cut and tap the rods 3/4 X16, the DOM tub is the perfect size for this. besides totally liberating the rear end movement, you also can get some wheelbase adjustability and easier pinion angle adjustment. We do this on our 4 link kits (Prodigy Bar) at the factory and call it our swivel end kit. Here is exactly what we do. We have the parts in a kit including the taps for $240 or you can get them on your own under these part numbers

Rod Ends

(4) QA1 XMR10-12 XMR
(2) QA1 XML10-12

Jam nuts

(4) JNR 12S
(2) JNL 12S

Taps

3/4 X 16 Right Hand
3/4 X 16 Left Hand

Would these be able to be used without replacing the brackets that are already welded in place.

[ProdigyCustoms]

Would these be able to be used without replacing the brackets that are already welded in place.


Yes, but I forgot the spacers

(16) SG 108

[GRNOVA]

Frank, are these on you website? Where do I look up the part numbers.
I found this site BTF (http://rds.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0geu9lJuABL03wA94tXNyoA;_ylu=X3oDMTBybnZlZnR lBHNlYwNzcgRwb3MDMQRjb2xvA2FjMgR2dGlkAw--/SIG=132bemcha/EXP=1258424777/**http%3a//bluetorchfab.com/store/product_info.php%3fcPath=35_40%26products_id=219)

[ProdigyCustoms]

You can just call me and get a kit. I don't have them listed.

$240 gets the entire package.

[JRouche]

Well I don't want to start another post since I have the same problem as I had in May CRACKED bushings on my air 4 link ends. I need to find a heim joint that I can press into the bar ends. Anyone have any ideas.

I have a 4-link, art morrison and it came with some really nice stainless steel/poly rod ends. Brand new still. But I was still getting a lil bind at around 3* of roll. So I bought eight QA1 rod ends, the good ones (they are also sold under the competition engineering label) to take their place. I had to make 16 spacers on the lathe to take up the extra space. Should help with the binding.. JR

These are the ends with the homemade spacers. And I forgot, Ill use these seals-it covers for the rod ends. If you do make sure to account for the space of the washer.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/11/rodends-1.jpg

[Denvervet]

Another option is check out SC&Cs gbar links with Johnny joint ends. I did the same as Frank and Todd (Vegas) cut ends and tapped and put a Johnny joint on it.

[bret]

I have seen a few [and I mean a few] of these in the last year or so. Of the 25,000 bushings that we used in the last 18 months we've gotten about 6 sets back with that problem. I haven't determined the real cause for sure, but it could be from tightening with an impact. The inner sleeve is a powdered metal that is very strong, but more brittle than mild steel. It is the same as many OEM's use but they are installed in a controlled environment. When cranked down with a healthy impact wrench the inner sleeve can sometimes be fractured like yours.
Since we cannot control how the bushings are installed [even with a torque spec] we have gone back to a mild steel innersleeve that is more resistant to an impact wrench.

I think I remember Darren mentioning this particular issue a few days ago. My apologies for your inconvenience. If he has not replaced your bars [at no charge] by now give us a call and we'll get it fixed.

Thanks!

[GRNOVA]

Thanks Bret I will be calling you tomorrow.

As far as tightening up the bushings no impact was used on mine I installed the bushings hand tight put the weight of the car on it and then tightened them up till the susp. moved with a little tension.

Thanks everyone for all your help.