Cadillac rear Disc

[73challenger]

Hello, I need help with my 73 Dodge Challenger. I swapped to rear disc that uses cadillac calipers. I am using a 5th avenue master cylinder(manual) which should be a inch and a eighth but I didn't measure it. I also have a wilwood proportioning valve. I don't believe there is any air in the lines or master cylinder. The brakes are VERY squishy but after a few pumps get firm. What could be wrong? I'm thinking about switching back to my drums...

[Apogee]

Did you properly adjust the parking brakes so that the pads are positioned properly relative to the rotors? There a brief description of how to ajdust the parking brake mechanism here if you're interested. Until the e-brake is adjusted, it's very difficult to know whether you still have any air in the system or not, so that's something you'll still need to verify one way or another.

Tobin
KORE3

[JRouche]

I have the seville brakes also. They are firm. And you do need the E brake to take up the slack to adjust them. There is a screw in the caliper that needs to be moved by the e brake. If you dont have an e-brake then thats a point to look at. Umm, dont switch back to drums, the discs are much better if done correctly. JR

[ZZ430]

Also, gravity bleed the hell out of them!

[73challenger]

Well, I tried ratcheting them. One side always would move more than the other side so I'm going to replace it. Are you suppose to be able to shake the pad when the brakes are not applied?

[JRouche]

Well, I tried ratcheting them. One side always would move more than the other side so I'm going to replace it. Are you suppose to be able to shake the pad when the brakes are not applied?

Dont toss it!!! Its prolly fine. They are a heck of a system. I have read high and low and finally got the idea, after tearing them all the way down. If the one doesnt ratchet all the way closed you need to take the E-brake cable arm off and re-clock it. Its a pain in the azz if you read some of the ideas on how to do it. But its really simple if you actually tear it down and see how it works. I have several links to various ways of adjusting them. Ill post them when I get to that computer, on the laptop now. But its as simple as removing the arm, repositioning it to get a new ratchet position. And some of the methods dont even require you to remove the arm. But what I do is seat the piston all the way in with the arm off then put it back on at its fully "opened" position. Put the caliper on and I get a tight adjustment. JR

[73challenger]

Ahh, I have lifetime replacement so it wasnt a biggie :-) I replaced the one that was acting funny. I think everything is right now I just need to get the air out of the lines. I've bleed and bleed and bleed some more....Imma research gravity bleeding.

[Mkelcy]

Ahh, I have lifetime replacement so it wasnt a biggie :-) I replaced the one that was acting funny. I think everything is right now I just need to get the air out of the lines. I've bleed and bleed and bleed some more....Imma research gravity bleeding.

I spent the better part of a week trying to bleed those calipers; gave up and took it to a local brake shop that got it done pretty quickly with a brake bleeding machine.