cam selection for Procharged 350

[kenhaw]

Hi

I am posting a lot of questions today so please dont hold it against me.

Will this cam work with my application?

350 ZZ4 (fastburn) hot cam kit, Super Competition headers, 3" exhaust with cutouts, water/alcohol injection, Procharger F1 7-8 psi boost. Purely streetdriven.

thx

[gearheads78]

Looks pretty good but I leave decitions like that to the pros. I am extreemly happy with what Cam Motion speced of for me for a mild street BBC in a truck I built for a buddy. 8-9 lbs its making 800+ hp
4200 lb truck has run 6.40's so far. It not even a roller just a solid flat tappet.

[TraviZ28]

I have an F1A model and comp recommended this cam:

@.050 duration 236/248

and with my 1.7 rockers I achieve right around .598/.602 lift on a 113lsa

So far I have recorded 6psi @ 5000rpm with a 5.5" pulley.

Procharger recommends me getting a 4.75" pulley to achieve my 13psi I was looking to get.

[DeltaT]

The GMPP hot cam will work great with a centrifugal blower. But why the big F1 with such low boost? Plans for the future?

Jim

[TraviZ28]

it was an accident.
when i ordered the kit i asked for the biggest pulley for lowest boost because i had a new engine and new ecm (megasquirt) which requires alot of tuning and I didnt want to hurt anything. now I have it about dialed in i will be ordering a smaller pulley to get my 13-15psi on california 91 octane as planned originally.
also i love the step up ratio and with its 74k rpm limit, i wont be near winding it out like other lower end models. longer longevity.

[kenhaw]

The GMPP hot cam will work great with a centrifugal blower. But why the big F1 with such low boost? Plans for the future?

Jim

Hi Jim

My problem is that I am affraid the fuel pump lobe on my old cam is wearing out so I might have to change the cam anyway.
And then why not get something that is meant to be used with boost.
I have absolutely no idea about all the numbers involved when choosing a cam so I have to rely on the experts. Comp Cams came back with this recommendation and just wanted to ask some of you guys on the forum for advice.
The reason for not running more boost is first of all that my engine isn´t built for it... yet. Also when I first bought the F1, I didn´t know a lot about centrifugals, but the price was really good and the unit never used. I think however if it was today I would have bought one a little smaller. My car still needs a lot of small adjustments but I am getting there. I dont even think I have really tried to go all out yet, even with the conservative boost I am running and I know that the F1 can supply sooooo much more boost it scares me. I also have a C1500 with the old whipple screw charger, it is very different and boost is immidiate there.
Have been thinking about buying a whole new block and slowly building it up for boost, the thing is that I am living in France and that makes getting the right parts the first time around very important due to the freight and tax issues.

[DeltaT]

Hi Kenneth,

If you really want to do it right:

Piston change from your current hypereutectics to a good forged piston to get you to somewhere in the 9.2:1-9.5:1 CR area.

Big front mount intercooler set up for nice cool airflow to & from.

Maybe look at a valvespring upgrade & head mods to allow higher lift, and some basic porting on those heads really will pay off when you boost the motor. Then you will have more leeway with the cam/rocker combo.

The intercooler is the key to allowing you to run reasonable boost with sane intake ait temps.

Regards,

Jim

[kenhaw]

Hi Kenneth,

If you really want to do it right:

Piston change from your current hypereutectics to a good forged piston to get you to somewhere in the 9.2:1-9.5:1 CR area.

Big front mount intercooler set up for nice cool airflow to & from.

Maybe look at a valvespring upgrade & head mods to allow higher lift, and some basic porting on those heads really will pay off when you boost the motor. Then you will have more leeway with the cam/rocker combo.

The intercooler is the key to allowing you to run reasonable boost with sane intake ait temps.

Regards,

Jim

Hi Jim

I have a pretty good idea of what needs to be done but my car is a daily driver so I might take it slow and buy a little at a time.
I have never disassembled an engine before but I want to try buikding one.
What block would you choose for a new buildup? I dont want to go absolutely crazy but looking for maybe 600-700 hp and street driven.
Can I buy something that is ready to go, meaning no machining what so ever. The reason is that I am in France and I have no confidence in their ability to machine a block
Is an intercooler a must when running pretty low boost and also injecting water/alcohol?

[DeltaT]

Hi Kenneth,

For those power levels (and a bit more headroom to grow) I'd probably just go ahead and spring for an all-forged shortblock built around a Dart or World Products Motown block. Expect to pay about $4000 in the US, who know's how much more in France...

And I'd go with an intercooler from the beginning, again for the headroom it gives you to grow.

I never hear people complain about investing in great gear the first time, but we all see lots of people trying to sell used gear and moaning about spending double the money and time to do it right the second time through, right?

Jim

[big_G]

I have posted camshaft questions/recommendations from 4 cam vendors and got 4 wildly different specs. I've all but given up on asking for advice and am going through dyno trial and error testing. I am running a 383 with >16 lbs. boost via a D1SC. Currently using a 230/236/114* solid roller, considering a 242/248/114*. Always looking for useful advice.

[DeltaT]

Big G,

I currently have a Comp Cams Xtreme Street solid roller in my 383, 230/236 on a 112lsa running 1.6 roller rockers, huge FMIC and multiport injection. I believe it's a great cam for a 3500# car with an automatic. It put down 632rwhp at 11.7# of boost and since I changed the air intake to the blower and added another idler wheel to the 8-rib setup (allowed some more belt tension) I am hitting ~12.9# of boost. The cam is done around 6250 even though I can spin the motor up to 6900 no problem.

Idle quality was important to me since the car is supposed to be a sleeper (a bit loud though). Unless you don't care about idle or have a lot lighter car or a stick shift, I wouldn't go larger than a 236/242 on a 113 with that D1SC. If you have a stick then go for the cam you mentioned - it should rock.

It is almost identical to the solid roller I specced for my new 434 smallblock with a Whipple 3.3 twinscrew blower: Comp 242/[email protected]", 115lsa. Net lift .630"I/.674"E using 1.7I/1.8E T&D shaft rockers. Will go into the same car with the 4L80E and a new, 5-disk lockup Vigilante converter.

Jim

[big_G]

Thanks for the response, DeltaT. The 'Vette weighs in at about 3,200 lbs. and is a manual 5 speed. Running FAST fuel injection with Edelbrocks Vic. Jr. EFI intake. I need to find my missing HP, only 555 rwhp. My a/f ratio may still be too rich at 11.0-11.8 at boost. What heads do you run and what is your c/r? Do you have a plot of your dyno run? Thanks, Gary

[cantvalve16]

I would recommend that you speak with Jay Allen at Camshaft Innovations. He makes cams based on total package scenarios. Takes into account what you want the car to do not mention his great customer service. Sorry to sound like a commercial, but the guys flat knows his stuff. If you want to do it right the first time with no guess work, I would like into this route. He also doesn't recommend anything he doesn't think you need.I bought a valvetrain from him and was very pleased.

[DeltaT]

Big G,

My current heads are Edelbrock E-Tec 200's, ported, with a ported Holley MPFI single plane. Here's my last dyno run entered into Excel:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/05/4dr_dyno2007-1.jpg

Are you running an intercooler? And what CR and heads do you have?

My blower is a Vortech V-2 T-trim. Running 1 3/4" headers into full dual 3" exhaust w/crossover. 75lb/hr. injectors, 9.6:1 CR, 1000cfm 4BBL throttle. My IC flows over 2000cfm.

I also run a locked converter which is good for at least another 30rwhp and 25rwt. I know because my first dyno session I compared it back to back unlocked vs. locked.

AFR's in the 11.6-11.8 range at WOT and high boost. I've spent a lot of time tuning this and datalogging runs - I'm on tune #96 right now.

Oh, and the belt is tight as a drum!

Jim

[big_G]

Looks like Dean Harvey @ Comp Cams has a cam profile for me...244/248/114*....615-.609 lift. I am running a ProCharger 3 inch core, 12X28 inch FMIC. Heads are Vic. Jr's` 210cc intake, 8.3:1 scr.
1-3/4 in. Hooker super-comp headers, 3 inch mandrel exhaust with X-pipe and Hooker Max-Flow mufflers. 1200 cfm throttle body, 65 lb. injectors. What timing are you at at max boost from 5000 to 7000? I hear you about the belt...even with a 12 rib set-up I had slip until I wised up.

[DeltaT]

Sounds cool! I'm running 23 degrees from 5000 up, but I also have a J&S Safeguard Knock Controller that can pull timing on individual cylinders if it hears bad noises.

I'll bet you get 50rwhp more out of just that cam and the boost will drop to 13-14.

My site: http://home.mindspring.com/~jim_fisk/id1.html

Jim

[big_G]

Sounds cool! I'm running 23 degrees from 5000 up, but I also have a J&S Safeguard Knock Controller that can pull timing on individual cylinders if it hears bad noises.

I'll bet you get 50rwhp more out of just that cam and the boost will drop to 13-14.

My site: http://home.mindspring.com/~jim_fisk/id1.html (http://home.mindspring.com/%7Ejim_fisk/id1.html)

Jim
Aren't you running a solid roller cam? If so, do the lifters cause false knock signals?

[DeltaT]

It's a lot more discerning than a regular OEM setup. It has a digital signal processor that can discriminate actual knock from valvetrain noises. Took a few tries to adjust it but I have never shown any signs of knock and never heard a ping. I have a display on my dash that shows when it is pulling timing and how much, and I have the unit set up so that it doesn't activate unless it's under boost (has its own MAP sensor and hose to the manifold). Once and a while it flickers showing it pulling about 3 degrees but that's it. Best $450 I've spent on motor insurance...

Jim

[kenhaw]

hehe, should have known about this little device before buying the MSD knock alert for 250usd!!!!!!!!!!!