Bleeding problems

[mesmydo]

I am having trouble getting good brake pedal pressure. I recently mounted the master and booster done on the frame to clean up the firewall, but I can't seem to get the pedal to firm up. I have tried having my wife pump the pedal before pressing down when I crack the fitting. And I have tried just having her press down without pumping. I have gone around the car several times bleeding each corner and I seem to be getting good fluid but the pedal is still soft. I can't find any leaks letting air back in. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[MickMc]

OK
A little more information.
Disc or drums and the combination of which?

Rubber lines or braided lines?

Proportioning valve or combination valve.

Any other modifications?


Mick

[mesmydo]

It has 4 wheel discs with a proportioning valve and residual valves because the master is low on the frame. It has 3/16 hard line running to the corners with braided lines from the frame to the calipers. The master is new (1-1/8 bore) I replaced it because I thought that the first one was maybe bad from sitting around for 2 years. The front calipers are 4 piston wilwood style and the rears are a stock ford type with only one bleeder. I am getting a little bit of pedal pressure ,but I can still turn the wheel by hand when the brake is applied.

[MickMc]

First
Are the rear pads adjusted close to the rotors, most have some sort of adjustment, a lever or something.

Clamp off the rear lines, if there is a rubber line this helps, vice clamps or the like, clamp the line, now do you have more pedal?

How about the proporting valve. Is there a button on the valve (it must be pressed when bleeding) no valve then take a test light to the post that the connects to a dash light. Attatch a test light from the positive side of the battery. The light should not light indicating that the valve is in the middle of the combination valve (everything is OK).

Next




Mick