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    Results 1 to 12 of 12
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Nov 2003
      Location
      St. Louis area
      Posts
      268

      Closeout panels for minitub??

      I got my passenger side floor cut for the minitub, now I have a question about the closeout panels for the shock tower. The DSE instructions seem a little vague and the video doesn't really show this as clear as I would like.

      In these pics, it looks like a 3/4 inch flange was bent down and not much of the original metal inside the tower was removed: http://www.detroitspeed.com/ThompsonPage0110.html
      http://www.detroitspeed.com/ScottsPage10.html



      In this pic, using the current DSE instructions, it looks like the shock tower was gutted, the closeouts became the flange, and the floor was actually cut 2.75" inboard and no flange was left: http://www.superchevy-web.com/tech/0409sc_minitub/

      So, where I'm getting confused is where the DSE instructions say that the actual cut line is 3/4" outboard of a line drawn 2.75" inboard of the original mounting surface of the inner housing. If I understand correctly, the actual cuts on the shock tower need to be 2.75" inboard and that area, along with the section of frame that is cut out, will not have a 3/4" flange to bend down, thus the frame closeouts will also become the flange that the Deep Tub is welded to. Is that correct?

      Nathan
      1969 Camaro - 355 sbc, TKO 600, 12 bolt, Global West suspension


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Oct 2003
      Location
      Arvada, Co
      Posts
      2,119
      Country Flag: United States
      Does this help? Have you checked at Lateral-G? Scott has pics of his mini-tub install.

      Brian

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Nov 2003
      Location
      St. Louis area
      Posts
      268
      Yea, I've studies those pics several times along with the others. From these shots, it looks like there was no flange folded down on the shock tower: http://www.lateral-g.net/adams/minitub/SAdams-045.jpg
      http://www.lateral-g.net/adams/minitub/SAdams-049.jpg

      Nathan
      1969 Camaro - 355 sbc, TKO 600, 12 bolt, Global West suspension

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Jun 2004
      Location
      Anchorage, Alaska
      Posts
      97
      Nathan, I haven't seen any two done the same way. When mine was done, I cut out what was necassary to fit the tubs, then made my own closeouts. The flange isn't necessary if you can plugweld the tub to the close out panel.

      Here's a shot of my driver side.
      Attached Images Attached Images  
      Last edited by 907rs; 03-14-2005 at 09:01 AM. Reason: pic added
      Bill
      68rs mini-tubbed,subframe connectors, 335's on Fontanas

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Feb 2005
      Posts
      320
      I'm actually in the process of doing this also. Without actual measurements on where to make the cut into the framerail I'm a little leary. If anyone else out there can help I'd gladly post pictures so I can get moving again. Then again if there is anyone out there from NY that has done this mod please come to my house and give me a hand. Chris

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Nov 2003
      Location
      St. Louis area
      Posts
      268
      Brian, that's the pic I've been looking for. I will probably try to leave some of the original metal inside the shock tower and fold a flange down like you did.

      I agree, it seems that there are a few different ways that the closeouts can be handled. Knowing that the flange is not necessarily needed helps alot.

      Thanks!

      Nathan
      1969 Camaro - 355 sbc, TKO 600, 12 bolt, Global West suspension

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Jun 2002
      Location
      Long Island, NY
      Posts
      11,320
      Country Flag: United States
      Nathan,

      When I mini-tubbed my car, I made a flange at the shock towers, (a better flange was done on the passenger side since I did that side second, and had a better grasp of the process beforehand). My flanges looked almost identical to Brian's. I made all my own closeouts, as I think it's easiest this way. For what it's worth, I spoke with Kyle before doing my mini-tubs, and he said to make a flange where ever possible.

      Chris,

      Where in NY are you located? I'm in Smithtown, Long Island, and I've mini-tubbed my '68.
      Last edited by Ralph LoGrasso; 03-14-2005 at 12:15 PM.

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      Houston Texas
      Posts
      368
      i didnt leave any flange hanging on mine because im welding my tubs directly to the floor all the way around with no real "spot" welds. www.cardomain.com/id/43zach there you can see all the progress pics so far
      68 Camaro - never to be finished
      06 Silverado - Forged 370, L92 Heads, big cam, 4l80e ect. eventual donor for the above
      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KmB2y7uX38I

    9. #9
      Join Date
      May 2002
      Location
      Northern California
      Posts
      10,716
      Country Flag: United States
      Flange or not to flange.....
      It really depends on the sheetmetal your working with. Flanging will provide a spot for rust to hide so seal it up good. I like to over size the close outs and weld the tubs to that. Spot ever 1 1/2" then sealer.
      MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε


    10. #10
      Join Date
      Feb 2005
      Posts
      320
      Ralph I'm in Niagara Falls Chris

    11. #11
      Join Date
      May 2005
      Posts
      37
      Nathan, great question I had the same question myself as I'm in the process of installing a dse mini-tub on my 67 Firebird Convertible.

      Now my question guys is do I Remove the factory close-outs on the side of the shocktower to get a little more flang in that area(currently there is only 1/4" of metal sticking off it) as my 2.75 line is just over it(1/2" inboard)?? Or do I add my close-outs over the factory closeouts?

      Thanks, chris

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Nov 2003
      Location
      Maine
      Posts
      1,076

      chris

      just cut the 2.75 line all the way, fold down flange on front half, rear half will begin with closeout then be plug welded to frame rail all the way back
      cutting the line will make it apparent where closeouts are needed
      jake




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