GM A-body Currie Currectrac, which bushings?

[b-man]

I'm about to install some new Currie Currectrac rear control arms on my '64 Tempest.

There are no bushings supplied with these arms for the upper rear pivot points. What type of bushings should be installed in the upper rear end housing, rubber or poly?

Are rubber bushings necessary to prevent binding? If so, are there any harder durometer rubber bushings available or even advised for use for this application?

Any help or insight on this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Bart

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2009/03/DSC02503-1.jpg

[LateNight72]

Stock-style rubber should be good.

[nvmyss]

Take a look at these.
http://www.wolferacecraft.com/detail.aspx?ID=187

[64Chevelle]

Hi, I just went through a week of trouble finding the correct bushings for my 64 Chevelle. That year was the only year with a small size bushing. I'm not sure if the 64 Tempest use the same axle UCA mount ears and bushing size as the Chevelle though. If u'r lucky the Tempest has the same bushings as the 65-72 Chevelle.

Check my thread here: https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=52878

The link in the last post is where I got mine from, I chose nylon since I've heard good things about them.

[64Chevelle]

Take a look at these.
http://www.wolferacecraft.com/detail.aspx?ID=187

Those seem to be a bit of an overkill as long as the UCA's have the Johnny joint at the frame end which ensures a free range of motion anyhow. Rather choose the nylon or steel bushings linked to in my thread above.

I would avoid poly as much as possible since they bind. I don't know why SC&C/Currie choose those in the lowers, wish they'd use Delrin or some other (greasable) solid bushing instead.

[oestek]

I think the Currie arms can get away with the poly thanks to the other side having the spherical end eliminating the bind.

[b-man]

The stock '64 Tempest rear does take the one-year-only oddball smaller diameter upper bushings, but I won't be using the stock 8.2" rear. I'll be running a '71 -'72 Buick/Olds 8.5" rear with bolt-in axles and tapered axle bearings.

I had already asked my rear end guy to put poly bushings in to match the lowers on the Currie arms but was wondering if this was a mistake.

I bought the Currie arms to get a good-quality set of control arms with the added bonus of the Johnny Joints at the front to prevent binding.

Will it still have a binding problem if I decide to keep poly bushings in the housing, even with the 30-degree articulation ability of the front joints?

[64Chevelle]

The way I see it, with the Johnny joints on one end and the poly in the other end you take away half the binding. The Johnny join bushing moves freely while the poly bushing are still prone to binding. As long as you use poly bushings with grease fittings (and grease them regularily) you should have no problem.

Read about how to measure stiction here: http://www.elephantracing.com/techtopic/polyurethanefriction.htm

I've also heard that poly bushings gradually deform under load and makes the bushing less precise.

More about nylon bushings here: http://books.google.no/books?id=t1SKIAyYOYcC&pg=PA118&lpg=PA118&dq=nylon+urethane+rubber+bushings&source=bl&ots=WfM1QP9JoF&sig=YqFKooptV-TZVrd6i8N-GaKEREY&hl=no&ei=LS_LSdbBM5TN-QaFyOjIBg&sa=X&oi=book_result&resnum=9&ct=result

I would definately stay away from rubber and poly bushings whenever I have the chance. I have personally experienced the binding problem of poly bushings in the front end. I have no experience with nylon, delrin or steel-on-steel bushings, buth I have delrin in my front LCA's and getting the nylon rear UCA bushings. Can't wait to try the car once it is completed...

sinned's post in this thread pretty much sums it up: http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?p=81357