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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Oct 2008
      Location
      Durham,NC
      Posts
      664
      Country Flag: United States

      c5 rear e-brake what are you guys doing???

      I have a C5 vette brakes front and rear with slotted rotors and was wondering what you guys are doing for e brakes??? This is on a 1972 chevelle with a 12 bolt. Pictures would be GREAT but any help would be nice. (yes I know Kore3 makes a setup but not in budget right now) (also do not wanna buy another set of rotors to do ls1 rear brakes). Thanks for any help you can give guys. Brandon



    2. #2
      Join Date
      May 2008
      Location
      SoCaL-Pico Rivera
      Posts
      1,138
      Country Flag: United States
      x2^
      ---------Fabian Sanchez-----------
      71 velle Project Syckness ATS,Rushforth wheels,PRRC, Autometer,UMI, Hotchkis,QA1,hood-latches.com, comp cams,


      https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=43881

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Dec 2002
      Location
      Lost Wages, Nevada
      Posts
      2,684
      Country Flag: United States
      I myself am running the stock C5/6 parking brake assembly... but that doesnt help you in this situation. It is however, out of your price range if you think the expense of the LS1 assemblies and/or Kore3's is too much. You would have to purchase a 9" for it to work... which cost more than the two previously mentioned options combined.


      Since you have already thrown out the cheapest and most simple way to accomplish what you are after and its as easy as purchasing a set of rotors (at roughly $35-45 each) and just do it... I dont know what to tell you.


      The other option(s)...

      The single puck Wilwood assembly. But ,that will require a bracket and some fitment. That... and they havent done that peticular set-up for a couple of years now. Hell... I dont even know if they even offer the single puck by itself anymore...

      And... there is always adding a brake assembly to the driveshaft/pinion yoke. But then again... you are running a 12 bolt. That makes it a little harder... and none the less, it's none less expensive.

      I guess there is always a 12" piece of 4x4...

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Mar 2008
      Posts
      952
      and old school mechanical line loc valve in the rear brake line that holds pressure on the rear calipers would work, but it might not be a good idea to have the caliper pressurized all the time like that.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Norcal
      Posts
      66
      you could always switch over to the 93-97 camaro rear calipers and use a c4 12" rotor. the calipers has an external pb setup, you just need the correct cables. touring classics makes the brackets for that setup i belive.

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Location
      Fort Mill, SC
      Posts
      94
      I'm almost done with the conversion on a 2nd gen stock 10 bolt rear, the brackets are at the plater and will be back soon. I just need to trim the axle brake lines and get the brake cables measured. This should work for your Chevelle also. I used a stock C5/C6 backing plate:

      http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=154237



      Ed

    7. #7
      Join Date
      May 2008
      Location
      SoCaL-Pico Rivera
      Posts
      1,138
      Country Flag: United States
      Ed looks like the rotor and caliper are not aligned? Is that due to no lug nut holding it down. Have you ran the break set up?
      ---------Fabian Sanchez-----------
      71 velle Project Syckness ATS,Rushforth wheels,PRRC, Autometer,UMI, Hotchkis,QA1,hood-latches.com, comp cams,


      https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=43881

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Location
      Fort Mill, SC
      Posts
      94
      Good eye. That was a mock up in the early stages to see if all went smooth with the bracket pattern I came up with. The brackets were not fully torqued down and the caliper spacing was a bit off. If you look closely you'll notice I used plexiglass material for the test bracket patterns. I will update the swap with new pics when I get the final brackets back from the plater later this week. I also have solid aluminum caliper abutment spacers which are not pictured...so it's done, but not done.

      Ed
      1970 Camaro RS
      1988 Camaro Iroc-Z
      1991 Camaro RS
      2001 CBR 929RR

      www.flynbye.com

    9. #9
      Join Date
      May 2008
      Location
      SoCaL-Pico Rivera
      Posts
      1,138
      Country Flag: United States
      So does the hub need to be machined down if so to what?
      ---------Fabian Sanchez-----------
      71 velle Project Syckness ATS,Rushforth wheels,PRRC, Autometer,UMI, Hotchkis,QA1,hood-latches.com, comp cams,


      https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=43881

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Location
      Fort Mill, SC
      Posts
      94
      No axle turning needed. I haven't had time to update the post yet, too much stuff going on.

      Ed

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      Bump for Ed. Keep me in mind when you get all this worked up.
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    12. #12
      Join Date
      Jan 2005
      Location
      Dallas TX
      Posts
      1,633
      I have the whole LS1 rear brakes from a donor car. Using with Lokar cables and the factory pedal. Cheap and look/works great.

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Aug 2009
      Posts
      125
      Quote Originally Posted by gearheads78 View Post
      I have the whole LS1 rear brakes from a donor car. Using with Lokar cables and the factory pedal. Cheap and look/works great.
      Which lokar cables did you use and how much fabrication was involved with the brackets? I'm getting ready to use ls1 rear discs on my 67 chevelle as well. Did the lokar cables eliminate the stock intermediate cable?

    14. #14
      Join Date
      May 2008
      Location
      SoCaL-Pico Rivera
      Posts
      1,138
      Country Flag: United States
      Brans I am also almost done doing a brake set for the 12 bolt with a c5 z06 w/ e brake. I will pm you.

      Rick(rsk68) got a chance to see it last weekend. Since I am on a budget I am making as many parts as I can. I don't have $$$ to spend on a baer set up.
      ---------Fabian Sanchez-----------
      71 velle Project Syckness ATS,Rushforth wheels,PRRC, Autometer,UMI, Hotchkis,QA1,hood-latches.com, comp cams,


      https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=43881

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Jan 2005
      Location
      Dallas TX
      Posts
      1,633
      Quote Originally Posted by 317millhand View Post
      Which lokar cables did you use and how much fabrication was involved with the brackets? I'm getting ready to use ls1 rear discs on my 67 chevelle as well. Did the lokar cables eliminate the stock intermediate cable?
      I'm sure others have done it different but this is what I did. Universal rear kit with end links from lokar too. I can't remember which ones they are. My local rod shop had all the ones they make and I just took the ebrakes in to see what worked. Memory wants to say Ford Explorer but not 100% on that. I used a couple roll cage tabs and some scape laying around to make the brackets. Ugly but functional. I also mounted with swaped sides so the ebrake pulls from the front. I originally ordered the front connector cable for the street rod foot brake Lokar carries but I wanted to use my stock pedal. In the process I discovered the rear cable mounting nut is almost the exact size of the hole in the floor so I called Lokar and ordered an extra outer sleeve only for the rear but used the inner cable designed for thier pedal. It all works perfect with the GM pedal. Here is a few pics from my build thread.










    16. #16
      Join Date
      Aug 2009
      Posts
      125
      Hey, it looks awesome. Much better than the factory setup. So, you used an extra rear cable housing and the inner cable from the street rod foot brake cable? What do you mean when you say "mounted with swapped sides?" Did you have to buy anything extra to get the levers to pull from the front? I guess what I need to know is if i get the brakes from both sides of a LS1 is this what I need , or do I need to get 2 of the same side. Sorry to bombard you with question, but i'm getting ready to try this as soon as I find a donor car. And, you were the first one nice enought to answer.

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Feb 2007
      Location
      Vancouver, WA
      Posts
      183
      I made some cable stop brackets that bolt to the back side of the axle flange. I used 1.5 x 1.5 x 1/8" angle iron. For the cables, I just cut down some stock LS1 cables and brazed new barrel ends on them. They hook into the stock intermediate cable and stock footbrake. They work great. This is on a 69 Camaro. Should be the same or similar on a later Chevelle.

      Chevelles - not having staggered shocks - just need a R and a L LS1 setup. To get the cables to pull to the front. just put the backing plate marked "L" on the right side and the one marked "R" on the left side.










    18. #18
      Join Date
      Jan 2005
      Location
      Dallas TX
      Posts
      1,633
      Quote Originally Posted by 317millhand View Post
      Hey, it looks awesome. Much better than the factory setup. So, you used an extra rear cable housing and the inner cable from the street rod foot brake cable?
      correct

      Quote Originally Posted by 317millhand View Post
      What do you mean when you say "mounted with swapped sides?"
      LH on RH side and vise versa

      Quote Originally Posted by 317millhand View Post
      Did you have to buy anything extra to get the levers to pull from the front?
      No but I made the stand off bracket on the front floor brace so it would pull right in line with the rear cable block.

      Quote Originally Posted by 317millhand View Post
      I guess what I need to know is if i get the brakes from both sides of a LS1 is this what I need , or do I need to get 2 of the same side.
      Everything came from one car. Thats all you need. The setup with the stock cables ^^^posted by the guy above looks good to

      Quote Originally Posted by 317millhand View Post
      Sorry to bombard you with question, but i'm getting ready to try this as soon as I find a donor car. And, you were the first one nice enought to answer..
      Not a problem. I stole lots of ideas from this site and others. Glad to help some else out

    19. #19
      Join Date
      Dec 2005
      Posts
      40
      Quote Originally Posted by gort69 View Post
      I made some cable stop brackets that bolt to the back side of the axle flange. I used 1.5 x 1.5 x 1/8" angle iron. For the cables, I just cut down some stock LS1 cables and brazed new barrel ends on them. They hook into the stock intermediate cable and stock footbrake. They work great. This is on a 69 Camaro. Should be the same or similar on a later Chevelle.
      Awesome... Now I like this setup....

    20. #20
      Join Date
      Aug 2009
      Posts
      125
      Thanks guys, now i've got 2 ways to look at. looks like the second way would definately be a little cheaper, due to not having to buy any expensive lokar stuff. But, then again i've been debaiting on some stainless Lokar cables to go with my brake lines.The first way would allow you run both cables down the drivers side, which may be a little better to clear some aftermarket crossover exhaust and stuff. Decisions, Decisions and Budget, Budget.
      Thanks guys.

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