B&M Shifter Not Matching Up w/4L60E

[Chevelle LT1]

I would be greatly appreciative if someone could please help me out with this (fingers crossed):



As I am just now getting my Chevelle on the road, I am running into problems with the shifter. I am using a B&M Pro Stick shifter (with the 4-speed gate) and an LT1 w/4L60E. Per the instructions, I am supposed to adjust the shifter cable so that it lines up with the new selector level when the trans is in 1st gear (all good there). Next step is to confirm that everything lines up when if Park (checking both ends of the spectrum). Unfortunately, when I line things up in 1st gear, by the time I move it to Park, the selector level has traveled considerably more than the shifter cable end. Even going between Park and Drive there is a clear difference in how things line up. At this point, if I adjust Park to be OK, then I am not able to get the shifter into Drive (with the car moving forward). Can anyone shed some light on this?

I have read and re-read the instructions until my head hurts, and still don't see anything. It has the GM lever, the spacers, and everything else the instructions call for. Any advice is mucho appreciated.

~ Jason

[Chevelle LT1]

To add a little more info to the 1st post: Since the fulcrum of the B&M selector lever is too large, I played around with it to figure out where I would need to be to make this work. The blue/purple line shows where things should work (per B&M), and the red shows the reality. Worst case, I could drill a hole where the red arrow is, and things should work, but I really want to understand what went wrong in the first place. Again, and any all info is appreciated.

Thanks,

~ Jason

[Bigblue73]

Have you contacted B&M to see if you have the correct instructions? Something just seems a little odd.

[Steve Chryssos]

I poked around for a better pic. This is all I got. I use the hole on the other end (the pointy side--with that hole located far forward). Also be sure that the shift cable is routed properly to avoid binding and exhaust contact. Beyond that, it's a flexible cable install, so don't be afraid to shim or tweak as needed.
/Steve

p.s. I like that your pic has a drill bit sitting next to the bracket as if to threaten the part into submission. Work! Or I shall drill you!

[Chevelle LT1]

Tony/Steve -

Thanks for the feedback. At this point, I have a call into B&M tech assistance, but don't have high hopes for how that will play out.

Steve - Threats with a drill bit have been my last resort. I tried the begging, cajoling, and hexing so far without luck. I'm now turning to more direct intimidation In regards to your comment about spacing the cable differently, please correct me if I'm wrong, but that shouldn't have too much effect. Since the shift cable is controlled by the lever arm ratios at the shifter mechanism, and the rotation of the lever on the trans is dictated by the internals of the trans, I don't think that spacing will make any difference? Of course, I could be way off-base here, at which point any/all ridicule and sarcastic comments are welcome.

Thanks,

~ Jason

[Steve Chryssos]

Jason,
By spacing, I mean moving the selector arm outwards--away from the trans pan. Note that in my install (selector arm with pointy end forward) the arm comes close to the pan. Anywayz, this method has provided full engagement from park to 1st gear for years.

In general, the spacing tweaking comment comes from years of grabbing whatever piece of scrap metal is lying around the shop and bending/drilling/whatever until it works. The flexible cable allows for this "method".
I will detail for the benefit of others in case you already tried this:

-Ignore instructions.
-Attach the cable to the shifter end.
-Bolt up the Cable-to-Pan bracket (the one with the hole and two jam nuts) This usually needs to be spaced downward.
-Attach the other end (trans side) to the above pan bracket
-Have someone inside the car move the shifter thru its range (Pizza/Beer/Rock n Roll)
-He/she will comment about how nicely the shifter moves when not connected to anything. Ignore.
-Lie under car and study the range of motion for the other end (trans selector arm end). It helps to lightly pull on the trans end of the cable.
-Study where trans-side cable eyelet ends up in low. Manually move transmission selector arm to low position and compare. Repeat process for park. Adjust cable at jam nuts if necessary.
-Did I mention four secure jackstands?
-Cable should remain relatively parallel to trans pan throughout range of motion to avoid binding.

[MrQuick]

Jason,

-Ignore instructions.

ironically step 1 in the instructions

[Chevelle LT1]

Steve -

Well, after re-visiting your original post, I only then realized the trans selector level was opposite of what is called out in the instructions. After flipping mine around to be the same as yours, everything lines up nicely (WTF?). I now have the same concerns with contact against the side of the pan. I am working through that right now, but at least the geometry is corrected. Thank you so much for the help.

Mods -

Please feel free to move this post.

Thanks.

~ Jason

[fishtail8]

As far as the pan contact goes, I gently increased the pan to bracket clearance... ( I bent it out a smidge and put the cotter pin on the pan side) Just move it enough to clear...

[Chevelle LT1]

After a little persuasion to the bracket, I was able to create enough clearance to the pan, and everything still lines up. All is well in 4L60E land