help which brake line flare tool for stainless lines

[65chevelleboys]

what brake line tool can i buy that is not to expensive .i can spend apx 100.00 trying to flare 3/16 stainless lines.thanks for your time.

[thedugan]

I have this one from Rigid and it works great

http://www.ridgid.com/catalog/RT2004-076.pdf.

But it aint cheap

[Jim Nilsen]

I have this one from Rigid and it works great

http://www.ridgid.com/catalog/RT2004-076.pdf.

But it aint cheap

It's what I use and it will be well worth the money to anyone doing stainless. With the cost of stainless around 25 cents an inch it is a neccessity to have just to make sure you don't scrap out a much longer piece that will never be able to be bent into something else shorter. When you get down to the last nut & ferrule and go to put the last flare on and the piece fits perfect, you don't want to screw it up :seizure:

If you can afford to go stainless line you can afford the tool. You can always sell it later when you are done and might need money or you can possibly rent one at your local rental place.

Goodluck

[Bow Tie 67]

I had a Ridgid for AN flaring that worked great.

Matt

[65chevelleboys]

thanks guys.if i can send pics of the finished product i will.
also what model # of ridgid do u use for stainless?

#458r
#455
#375

[The WidowMaker]

377 is used for 37* in the common car sizes

[gearheads78]

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/MAS-71475.html

After buying and using that I don't want to ever pick up another flair tool.

[The WidowMaker]

the kit above is very nice, but you cant do 37* fittings. if you want AN, 71480 is the part number you want.

Tim

[6768toys]

Sorry to jump in here with a question, but what is a good bender to go along with the flaring tool?

[65chevelleboys]

does this tool ridged make double flare on stainless?no info on web site.

[MickMc]

For bending stainless use a Swegloc bender, your stainless lines will love you forever.

[65chevelleboys]

bought the mastercool flaring tool.did my first flare.wow!!!!
i like it alot.

[silver69camaro]

bought the mastercool flaring tool.did my first flare.wow!!!!
i like it alot.

I purchased the kit that does 45* and push-connect (great for doing LS conversions) flares. Just a couple weeks ago I bought the 37* adapter, which was very hard to find. If you need one, let me know - only a few places will sell them at this time.

[Rallye455]

Where can you get the 37* adapters? I have the mastercool to do 45* and would like to be able to do the 37* also

[silver69camaro]

I bought mine from ETW in Tukwila, WA. Since the part is so new, most vendors (Matco, Snap-On, NAPA) have the "I can't find it in the computer therefor I wont sell it to you" mentality. All they need to do it call Mastercool to get pricing. Very frustrating.

Anyway, it was $10. Mastercool does sell different dies for the 37*, but it works the same with the 45* parts and using the 37* cone.

[CarlC]

Matt,

Does the tool have any problems making the push-lock upset on -6 stainless tubing? If it can do that I may pop for one. I really like the GM OE pushlock connections.

[65chevelleboys]

do you have part numbers.or web site?

[Olav]

Will any of these flaring tools make double flare on 3/16 SS lines ?

Olav

[gearheads78]

Will any of these flaring tools make double flare on 3/16 SS lines ?

Olav

The hydraulic tool I linked to above makes it a one hande deal. I don't know how I lived without it.

[gearheads78]

Will any of these flaring tools make double flare on 3/16 SS lines ?

Olav

The tool I linked to above does a great job with no effort.

[gkring]

Matt,

Does the tool have any problems making the push-lock upset on -6 stainless tubing? If it can do that I may pop for one. I really like the GM OE pushlock connections.


I tried to use it today to do a double flare on 1/2" (-8) stainless tubing and it would just push the tube without flaring. I had the dies as tight as I could by hand and was not willing to use a little leverage help to get it tighter. It may do a single flare, but I didn't try it. I doubt if it will do a pushlock on stainless. Maybe there is a softer stainless tube than what I have however. I just had this leftover from my last car. It does regular steel line wonderfully.

[CarlC]

Why would you want to double flare a stainless tube?

[BonzoHansen]

Why would you want to double flare a stainless tube?

SS has no seam to be concerned with, which is the reason to dbl flare, correct?

[The WidowMaker]

ive never heard of a double flare for stainless. just single flare and the brass seals. annealed stainless is much softer and will bend and flare easier. anybody know where to get it in long straight pieces?

Tim

[gkring]

ive never heard of a double flare for stainless. just single flare and the brass seals. annealed stainless is much softer and will bend and flare easier. anybody know where to get it in long straight pieces?

Tim


Guess that is why I have such a hard time trying to flare it. So if you did want to double flare small stainless line for your brakes you would just single flare it? The line I bought was from the local hydraulic hose shop. Straight line in at least 8 foot lengths. The larger 1/2 inch lines I bought seem pretty tough. No way I could bend them with a standard tubing bender. I had to get the larger bender with foot long handles. I'll check my extra scrap next time I am at the shop to see if the marking tell me what kind it is.

[silver69camaro]

I tried to use it today to do a double flare on 1/2" (-8) stainless tubing and it would just push the tube without flaring. I had the dies as tight as I could by hand and was not willing to use a little leverage help to get it tighter. It may do a single flare, but I didn't try it. I doubt if it will do a pushlock on stainless. Maybe there is a softer stainless tube than what I have however. I just had this leftover from my last car. It does regular steel line wonderfully.

I've done it several times, both 1/2 and 3/8. Perhaps your wall thickness was too high?

[silver69camaro]

SS has no seam to be concerned with, which is the reason to dbl flare, correct?

Correct. But in my position, my flaring tool makes beautiful double flares in under a minute, and does a better job at double flares than single.

[Rick Dorion]

I too bought the hydraulic mastercool tool. Initially I thought is was a bit extravagent but I've since had to do several on-vehicle repairs for various daily drivers and it's turned out to be an excellent investment. Perfect flares every time.

[CarlC]

Stainless can crack during the double-flare process. The smaller the diameter, the greater chance of cracking. For anything -8 and under for our applications a single flare is sufficient, easier to produce, and more reliable.

For a very interesting read Carroll Smith's "Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners, and Plumbing" is a great laymans book on basics of such things.

[silver69camaro]

Carl,
I've noticed it depends on what SS tubing you purchase. I've used some tubing I got at some local hydraulic shop, and it had small cracks every time I flared it. The tubing I use now (from Williams Oil Filter Service in Tacoma, WA) never does crack. It appears to be the same material used by Inline Tube and others. I wish I knew what material grade it is.

[Karch]

Fully annealed is what you want.

I used to sell thousands of feet of stainless (also titanium, inconel, tantalum, nitinol).

I can't remember specifics, but the particular alloys have an effect on forming, and it's really the cold working that causes the problems.

[gearheads78]

Why would you want to double flare a stainless tube?


Stainless can crack during the double-flare process. The smaller the diameter, the greater chance of cracking. For anything -8 and under for our applications a single flare is sufficient, easier to produce, and more reliable.

For a very interesting read Carroll Smith's "Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners, and Plumbing" is a great laymans book on basics of such things.



SS has no seam to be concerned with, which is the reason to dbl flare, correct?



ive never heard of a double flare for stainless. just single flare and the brass seals. annealed stainless is much softer and will bend and flare easier. anybody know where to get it in long straight pieces?

Tim

This is the first time I have ever used stainless and just assumed it should be double like steel tube. I have done my whole car in double flare. :hammer:Do need to be concerned? I did not see any cracks but since I was not really looking for cracks I may have missed something. The tubing was a roll I got from inline tube.

[silver69camaro]

Do need to be concerned?

No, Inline Tube's lines are good for flaring.