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    Results 1 to 11 of 11
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Topeka KS
      Posts
      103
      Country Flag: United States

      Howe dual piston brakes

      I put these brake calipers on my truck. My problem is the holes in the calipers is larger than the caliper bolts, so the calipers rattle around (note: no fluid in it yet, new brake pads.....never driven). The calipers don't have grooves in them for the rubber o-rings like the stock calipers do that prevents this.

      Is this going to be a problem when I drive it? Is there a way to "cure" this?





      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4NIBHSvENZk
      68 C-10 5.3L

      97 Chevy 12V cummins powered monster truck

      On the hunt for a chevelle project


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Jul 2006
      Posts
      59
      I have a set of Sierra aluminum calipers that I used a dremel with a ball end to cut grooves for the dampening o-rings. I just picked up a set Howes that I'll do the same. A good machinist could cut grooves which would be much easier than a dremel. Rattling around on the pins will oblong out the holes.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Location
      Oregon
      Posts
      1,773
      Country Flag: United States
      I believe aftermarket pins are available that have already been sized and modded for o-rings to make the Howe twin-piston calipers a little more streetable...I think I've most recently read about in on the Impala SS forum (www.impalassforum.com). I'll see if I can't dig up the manufacturer and part number and post back up with that info.

      Tobin
      KORE3
      It's what I does.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Topeka KS
      Posts
      103
      Country Flag: United States
      I got the Howe caliper pins....they're the same size as the stockers. I'll check out the Impala SS forum though. Thanks
      68 C-10 5.3L

      97 Chevy 12V cummins powered monster truck

      On the hunt for a chevelle project

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Location
      Oregon
      Posts
      1,773
      Country Flag: United States
      Sorry, as it turns out, what I was thinking of was in reference to the Wilwood GMIII caliper, not the Howe. My bad.

      I don't know if I'd be daring enough to go the dremel route, but I'd think you could machine either the caliper or the pin easily enough, depending on which way you wanted to go.

      Tobin
      KORE3
      It's what I does.

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Topeka KS
      Posts
      103
      Country Flag: United States
      I was thinking about it, it would be pretty easy to machine in an oring groove into the caliper bolt. The area on the back of the caliper bolt (howe caliper bolt with built in bushing) wouldn't be any weaker than the rest of the bolt since it is a larger diameter.

      I was actually thinking the best option would be to have some delrin bushings made that could be press fit into the calipers, and then then bolts just slide through them.
      68 C-10 5.3L

      97 Chevy 12V cummins powered monster truck

      On the hunt for a chevelle project

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Oct 2008
      Location
      Mitchegan
      Posts
      17
      Am I missing something here, or are you supposed to use these bolts with them?
      http://www.howeracing.com/Braking/In...unts-Bolts.htm
      1971 Nova "EthaNova" project. E-85 fueled 383, 575hp/580tq, mini-tubbed, M22/Gear Vendors and a baby seat!

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Topeka KS
      Posts
      103
      Country Flag: United States
      those are the bolts that I'm using. They're the same size as the stock bolts with the bushings.
      68 C-10 5.3L

      97 Chevy 12V cummins powered monster truck

      On the hunt for a chevelle project

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Oct 2008
      Location
      Mitchegan
      Posts
      17
      Ah, I pulled one from out back and see whats going on. I asked my circle track guy and he said they leave out the rubber bushing/sleeve combo to get any bind out of the caliper so it will float super easy. Running it this way would be okay, but he said the clattering noise would probably drive you nuts. What I would do, is try to machine the calipers to accept the stock rubber isolators and bushings. You know, I've sold tons of Howe and Wilwood fullsize and metric calipers but never realized this was the way they were. The delrin option would work
      pretty slick. Unfortunatly I'm not aware of any non-floating aftermarket calipers that are 7" bolt pattern.
      1971 Nova "EthaNova" project. E-85 fueled 383, 575hp/580tq, mini-tubbed, M22/Gear Vendors and a baby seat!

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Jun 2006
      Location
      Katy,TX
      Posts
      1,678
      I have some Wilwood metric for the rear in place of my TA ratchets that are the same way. They rock quit a bit when bolted up. I was actually looking at maybe some slightly tighter brass tubing on the bolt and ream out the caliper to press fit it.

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      IL/TN
      Posts
      908
      Country Flag: United States
      on a side note I ran those on my T/A and the line inlet needed to be relocated from the rear of the caliper to the top (drill and tap between the pistons) the reason for this was that at full or near full lock the fitting was under the frame and if you were to go up a ramp or a driveway curb (VERY likely scenario) the fitting could get sheared off especialy on lowered cars
      https://www.protouringf-body.com "doing what they say can't be done"




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