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deeboe78
09-23-2008, 04:01 AM
Wsup fellas

Trying to figure out should I try to put my intake and carb on my 70 chevelle or should a take it to a auto shop. I purchased a used (about a 100 miles, Looks brand new) holley 600 cfm and a e-brock rpm intake. Should I try to tackle this myself or let someonelse do it? Is it that hard of a job? Or just bolt on instuctions? I am thinking I will need to something with the distrubutor (stock). Any advice would be greatly apprciated.


Thanks--You guys never steered me in the wrong direction yet.

SSG D

Mommy Wagon
09-23-2008, 05:11 AM
That is an open ended question.

How big is your engine? Is it a single or dual plane? Is your car an automatic or manual? These are not related directly to the installation of the carb and intake, it's more of a component matching question.

Are you willing to make adjustments or modifications yourself?

As for the installation proceedure, I would say jump in. An intake and carb swap is a very simple process.

The component that takes the most time is the tuning of each circuit for optimum performance after the installation.

deeboe78
09-23-2008, 06:14 PM
sorry. the application is a 350 and the intake is dual plane. the car is a automatic

Mommy Wagon
09-23-2008, 06:18 PM
Then definately!!!

It's a simple swap, and sounds like a good solid street package.

You should be quite happy with the results. Depending on maximum RPM and camshaft, the carb might be a little weak on the top end. But, for regular use the Performer RPM intake is tough to beat, and offers a broad torque band.

Have fun!

deeboe78
09-24-2008, 08:18 AM
Thanks for motovation. But now I need the knowledge. What needs to be done to make this happen. Sorry to be so newbielized about this lol. If you can offer barney-type instructions that would be awesome!!!!!. both parts are used with no bolt-on instructions. So Im clueless to how to get started.

THANKS SO MUCH

Staff Sergeant D

Mommy Wagon
09-24-2008, 05:14 PM
1. Make sure your substrates are clean before dismantle.

2. Find top dead center, make sure it's not bottom dead center.

3. Mark distributor and rotor location

4. Drain coolant and remove upper radiator hose

5. Remove heater lines if required

6. Remove distributor, fuel lines, linkage and valve covers

7. Remove intake manifold bolts (remove carb if desired, not required)

8. Pry intake off manifold

9. Transfer over thermostat and housing (if being reused)

10. Inspect distributor for wear (peformance rebuild?)

11. Cover all engine openings

12. Scrape all gasket surfaces, clean all surfaces with desired "cleaner"

13. Install new intake gaskets (RTV silicone as required)

14. Place new intake in place

15. Install intake bolts torque accordingly (see manual for sequence)

16. Install upper radiator hose

17. Install carburator, connect fuel lines, linkage, install valve covers

18. Install distributor in appropriate position

19. Replace coolant, perform oil change (recomended)

20. Start car, run to operating temp, watch coolant, replace as needed

21. Set timing, and tune carburator.

22. Smile. You're done.


If I missed anything, feel free to chime in, it's almost second nature for me now, I'm sure I missed something.

Chad-1stGen
09-24-2008, 06:33 PM
Mommy Wagon summed it up pretty well.

I'll add a few tips since it sounds like you haven't done this type of thing before.

Tools you will need or want:
Basic socket set
Torque wrench that adjusts to 25 ft lbs
Gasket scraper
timing light
You may also need an open end wrench set depending on intake design and linkages.

Other installation items:
Intake gasket set.
Distributor gasket (if intake set doesn't come with one)
Carb mounting gasket
aircleaner mounting gasket
Thermostat housing gasket
Silicone
Gasket remover or some type of cleaner to clean up the mounting surfaces
Rags/shop towels
marker
Depending on the condition of your existing equipment you may need additional or to replace fuel lines or vacum lines or hose clamps, pipe fittings (to block vacum ports into the intake) etc. Inspect your current setup in advance of a trip to the store.

Helpful tips:
-Distributor alignment. Since you are swapping intakes there is no good way to ensure your timing isn't changed other than using a timing light to set it after installation of the new parts. However, it itsn't necessary to find top dead center and even if you chose to do that the following will help. Before removing the distributor, use a visual reference not related to the intake to note the current position such as the vacum port posiiton or mark a terminal on the dist cap and firewall. Then remove the distributor cap and mark the position the rotor is pointing to on the distributor with a marker. When you reinstall the distributor just make sure that the distributor is lined up with your reference and the rotor is pointing to the mark you made. Note when dropping in the distributor you have to posiiton the rotor just slightly counterclockwise to your mark as it will rotate a few degrees when the gear contacts the camshaft.

-Intake & carb ports. Ensure that you have identified each place your vehicle currently reads vacum from and replicate on your new intake. You may find that the new intake has more ports than the old and may need to buy plugs to seal them. Also, make sure you check your current vacum advance setup on the distributor as to whether it's porterd vacum or not. That is to say does it draw vacum at idle or not? Make sure you hook to the same port type on the new carb. You can check by looking up carb schematics online or running the vehicle as is and pullling the dist. vacum advance hose at idle and see if you are getting vacum. yes? not ported. No? then it's ported.

-End seals on the intake. Most people I know do not attempt to use the rubber seals from an intake gasket set at the front and rear of the intake. instead use a 3/16" or 1/4" bead of silicone to seal these locations.

- torqueing the new intake town. Torque specs are 25 ft pounds. Tighten in a outword patern starting with the center bolts and working outwards evenly switching between each side.

I'm sure I forgot some things and I'm also sure that if you spend some time on google you can probably find someone who has posted a guide with pictures on doing this.

Good luck.

deeboe78
09-25-2008, 08:15 AM
VERY VERY GOOD INFO. some one make this a sticky. My other concern is tuning the carb. Its damn near brand new, and from waht I herad the carb comes tuned out of the box is this true. If not please give pointers.


thx


SSG D

Shawn MacAnanny
09-25-2008, 09:20 AM
A carb rarely comes 'tuned'. It comes runnable but i mean there are WAY too many factors that contribute to getting a car tuned properly. You will need to adjust accelerater pump size, accelerater squirter size, accelerater pump cam size and setting, idle mixture, primary and secondary jet sizes, power valve size and secondary spring tension not to mention primary and secondary throttle blade idle adjsutment, and if it has an electric choke, choke timing and high idle. Mommy Wagon has been helping me with getting my carburetor tuned for the past week with my engine setup. I have spent over $700 in just my carburetor to get it right. It's pretty close just trying to get a slight lean stumble to go away now. I am running a dual wideband 02 for tuning as well which makes it even easier and still it takes some time. Once you start tuning each circuit you get the hang of it its just tedious. It may work perfect when you throw it on and just go who knows. I am just really anal about tuning my engine and want to get it the perfect AFR all the time which is hard to do with a carb atleast harder than EFI.

beep4beep
09-25-2008, 04:14 PM
take the cap off the distributor and mark location of rotor button on firewall if you don't do this you can accidently turn the distributor by the gear on the bottom when you take the dist out of the motor. good luck and have fun. Randy

deeboe78
09-25-2008, 07:49 PM
ok Ill tackle it this this weekend. should I go ahead and upgrade my distributor in the process and if yes. what kind? where to buy?

Thanks for the great info, really thanks you guys are really helping me out.

Chad-1stGen
09-25-2008, 09:37 PM
ok Ill tackle it this this weekend. should I go ahead and upgrade my distributor in the process and if yes. what kind? where to buy?

Thanks for the great info, really thanks you guys are really helping me out.

Depends on whats in there. If you still have a points distributor then ABSOLUTELY an upgrade to electronic ignition is a good idea.

If you have electronic ignition then a dist. upgrade on a simple carb and intake swap isn't really needed nor an efficient use of your budget if you are tight on funds.

deeboe78
09-26-2008, 10:53 AM
How can I tell the differnce in distrubtors? I know its not of anything for perfomance.

Mommy Wagon
09-27-2008, 05:46 AM
If it is big, and bulky looking, and the coil is intergrated into the cap then it is an HEI. If it is a separate coil, and had a wire to the middle to the cap, then swap it.

A few manufacturers make upgrades for an HEI, rebuild it yourself. You have the ability to recurve it and upgrade the internals. This is a very simple procedure, and makes a HUGE difference.

The only minor drawback is what will then require an upgrades after. The bonus is if you do the rebuild yourself, the money save can go into the upgrades.

Here is the list:

Distributor Re-curve kit (springs, weights, etc)
Performance module (factory one craps out at 5-5500rpm)
Performance coil
Distributor cap and rotor
Performance Plug wires
Upgraded spark plugs

Optional Items:

CD Ignition box
Multiple Spark box
As well as a multitude of crank trigger systems

megaladon6
09-27-2008, 06:47 AM
just a double check, it's not a vortec intake/head is it? if it is the torque is different and very critical.

deeboe78
09-27-2008, 06:56 AM
yep its a point distributor. shhhhhhh. more money to be spent. Cant wait to my 09 camaro get's here So I can drive the hell out it. and dont worry about rebuilds. One more question does a holley 600 carb comes with an electric choke? I hope so and should I get the intake powder coated its not bad looking at all. I assume the gas will most likley stained the coat. And when putting the carb on the intake I noticed there should be some kind of adapter of some sort. It doese't fit flush like it should. is there some kind of adapter of some sort for this?

deeboe78
09-27-2008, 07:00 AM
just a double check, it's not a vortec intake/head is it? if it is the torque is different and very critical.


its a dual plane rpm intake. whats the critcal aspect?

deeboe78
10-13-2008, 03:35 PM
You guys rock. I made it happen. That was my first time. The carb does'nt have a choke cord. so I will need to go pick one up should I go electric or manual? Whats the pros and cons of having eletric vs manual?

Thanks again mommy and chad. this should be a sticky for the great advice you gave a rookie! lol

SSG D

Shawn MacAnanny
10-13-2008, 03:40 PM
I'm running an electric choke. Drove it to work about 5am the other day. It was like 43 degrees but that was the coldest ive started it in. No problems.

deeboe78
10-14-2008, 02:32 AM
So should I go electric? which would be the best for a older holley 600 cfm carb?

darkostoj
12-19-2008, 02:55 PM
i've never run a choke, if its setup properly you dont need one most of the time.