LSx Engine placement

[69importkilla]

HELP! I want to order the stuff ASAP but I've searched and searched. As soom may already know I am installing an LQ4 into my 69 Camaro. What brand engine plates will keep everything in the same location so I dont have to modify my driveshaft?

Also will the truck pan that my engine came with work in my car?

[Patrick]

You made no mention of the type of transmission, but regardless of what you run - you will probably need a custom driveshaft.


https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29978

https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32236

https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14102

https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11915

[69importkilla]

I am using one of the modified viper tranny's. It bolts up to the Gen I engine, so when I bolt it up to the Gen III engine I was just curious if the mounts would keep it in the same position.

Any thoughts on the oil pan?

[SatisTraction]

i would do a header search and decide which ones you want to buy. then buy the mounts that match the headers. the mounts are the cheap part of this swap.

with the hooker mounts, short steering arms, and a few other parts you may be able to get away with the stock oil pan.

one PT member used his stock pan and i barely had to notch mine.

[WS6]

truck pans are very deep(3inches lower than your old SBC pan) I doubt it'll work. Swapping to an Fbody pan is a bolt in deal.

[WILWAXU]

TON's on info here: http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=28
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=818862

[69importkilla]

Thanks for those links, and yes there is a lot of information, but man is it all over the place...everyone has a different way of doing it. I guess thats what this is all about.

So far nothing I read speaks of mantaining the tranny location. The shifter in my car is in a perfect position and I dont really want to move it.

[WILWAXU]

Thanks for those links, and yes there is a lot of information, but man is it all over the place...everyone has a different way of doing it. I guess thats what this is all about.

So far nothing I read speaks of mantaining the tranny location. The shifter in my car is in a perfect position and I dont really want to move it.Do some research on the Viper transmission. From what I've seen, it keeps the shifter in close to the same spot.

[69importkilla]

Yeah when the tranny is bolted to a Gen I engine thats not a problem, but I cant find what happens when you install "XXX" manufactures adaptor plates on the Gen III. Oh well looks like I'll just have to buy a common style and try it!

[SatisTraction]

well the hooker mounts it way back so that is not what you want.

to be honest i would worry more about other stuff then a shifter hole

[ls1 nova]

I'm not sure I agree with satistraction. I used hooker plates and when I bolted up my richmond 5 speed the shifter lined up with the old hole, and I was able to use my stock tranny crossmember. This did not happen with the s&p plates I had. Visually it looks as if the hooker plates put the ls motors further back but I believe it is because the passenger head sits so far back. I think the hooker plates put the bellhousing in its "stock" location. just my .02.

[WS6]

hooker plates are designed to set a Gen3/4 engine bell housing mounting pad in the same location as a SBC. That means the transmission will be in the same place. The problem you run into in general with these plates is that the heads on a Gen3/4 engine also sit further back on the block as compared to a SBC. So, the heads usually end up hitting some part of the firewall. If others have used the hookers in your same chassis, go for it. However, the hooker plates are quite possibly the ugliest most over priced plates. They look like they were made with a hacksaw, belt sander, and hand drill. They cost just a little less than others that look much nicer. I know functionality matters most. I just don't like seeing an ugly part that costs a nice amount of money

[69importkilla]

I tell you guys I didnt realize it would be this crazy. But I guess if this is my biggest problem then oh well.

Does anyboby have any dimensions for these plates?? I have access to a TRUMPF laser machine and can cut these plates out virtually instantly.

It will suck to have to keep pulling everything in and out but atleast I can try the combination that works for me.

[Shawn MacAnanny]

I used ATS plates, Hooker ceramic long tubes, 327 frame stands, prothane SBC mounts, and a D&D LS1 viper t56, mountind location is perfect to me. I had to cut back about another inch or so to get it to fit from what i can remember. Nothing you would ever notice.

[BonzoHansen]

Shawn, can you clarify on "cut back about another inch" - what did you cut?

[ls1 nova]

69importkilla pm sent

[Shawn MacAnanny]

I had to cut the hole that was origionally in my tunnel from the 3 speed about another inch or two further back to allow for the T56 shifter.

[justanova]

http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=16488

if your dead set on keeping the trans where its at get some of these and bolt the eng. to the trans and weld the mounts in place.

[69importkilla]

I am not dead set on keeping the tranny in one spot. Since the machine is now programmed and the plates are cut, I am going to install everything and check the transmissions placement. If i need to move it, i'll just modify the program and cut a new set.

For the guys who want the hooker plates cut out, I can do it in SS, steel, or aluminum. But I need the dimensions or the plate itself to reverse engineer it.

[Midnight68]

I know its a little late but I had my t-56 bolted to my gen1 sb and then when I swapped in my LS2 I used the S&P style plates and it moved the engine way forward and I had to have my driveshaft lengthend.

[69importkilla]

Thats OK. I am still putting stuff together to install the engine anyways. How close the did the engine get to the firewall? And how much longer did you have to extend the driveshaft? Thanks...

[ls1 nova]

The difference between the S&P and the hooker plates is the Hookers move the engine back about 1 1/8-1 1/4. ATS plates are somewere in the middle. I have the S&P, hooker, and the autotrans plates(these set the engine back 1". ATS appear to be the S&P flipped upside down. This places it somewere in the middle I believe. If I am wrong on the ATS someone please correct me.
With the hookers I have approx. 1/2"-5/8" clearance between the pass head and the firewall. If your subframe is not positioned correctly or you have worn body mounts I have seen pics of this clearance much tighter than that.

[SatisTraction]

that plate is on they way. let me know when you get it.

[Midnight68]

I have about an 1" of clearance between the firewall and the head. I tried everything to get my driveshaft to work because it was brand new. No matter how low and far back i tried to get it there just wasnt room in the tunnel for everything to work and to get it back far enough. I ended up having the driveshaft lengthened like 1 3/4.

[69importkilla]

ls1 nova, which plates do you currently have installed in your car now?

I would love to get a look at those hooker plates.

[neki67]

You mean something like the attached pic? Found that picture on LS1tech.com; http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=472609&page=3

[DarkoNova]

It might be a little more work, but technically it should be better to have the engine placed farther back.

I thought ATS plates put the engine as far back as possible, but now it looks like the Hooker plates do?

Matt

[69importkilla]

Well I finally laid the engine in the car and it was a nice fit with the S&P style plates. I may just actually make another set and push the motor back another inch or so. I dont feel as though I want to go with the hooker style just yet, I dont see a need to mount the engine up higher. Thoughts?

[ls1 nova]

The bolt pattern is slightly deceaving. The hooker mounts allow you to use the "short frame stands and the "tall and narrow" engine mounts with the backing plates. I have the S&P plates from what I remember I had to use the "tall" frame stands and the "short" motor mounts. This placed the engine within a 1/16 of each other height wise. I used the hooker plates, frame mount E291 and motor mount 31118g,r from classic industry. The ls1 fell right into place, no prying or fighting, with the correct backing plate. Like I said before, the pass head is a little close and I would recommend aftermarket A arms for header clearance but this setup seemed very clean to me. Just my .02