Advice on flaring?

[ej68bird]

Hey guys i'm trying to finish up my brakes today, but I am having a hell of a time getting my double flares to come out well. No matter what I do they always come out a little off center. I've had a few come out good (like two), but they are just really inconsistant. I've used both a tubing cutter and a hack saw to cut them. I debur the inside with a drill bit and the outside with a file and try to make sure the cuts are square. But its always off.

I'm using a cheap $25 dollar tool from NAPA. Most "sources" I've checked said that it would be fine for small regular steel tubing. I'm wondering if it might be wise to invest in something nicer. I would really appreciate any advice you guys have. Thanks!

[oestek]

One trick we learned is to flip the clamp block over to do double flares... if you use the side with the large bell, it makes great singles, but the double part always comes out off center. Insert the tube from the other side, use the part with the small opening, and the first flare is a nice "bubble", then the second part is dead-nuts... even with a cheap tool. If you're going to buy a new tool, get an Imperial Eastman flare tool - and get an OLD one. We've got one from the 50s that kicks a$$ and will last forever... nice and heavy, precisely machined from when people actually cared.

[ej68bird]

Thanks I'll give that a try. What do you think about using a tubing cutter vs. a hack saw or Dremel, etc. I've heard that a tubing cutter can make the steel brittle, but it seems to give the most square cut.

[dipren443]

Thanks I'll give that a try. What do you think about using a tubing cutter vs. a hack saw or Dremel, etc. I've heard that a tubing cutter can make the steel brittle, but it seems to give the most square cut.

Tough call. Yeah, a tubing cutter might seem to make the squarest cut, but it also work hardens the material. You also need to be careful not to deform the tubing with too much pressure from the cutter.

My preference is to use a cutoff wheel and then file/dremel it square.

Are you working with mild steel or stainless?

[ej68bird]

Mild steel. I don't see the point of stainless for my purposes. It's too tough to work with and this sure as hell isn't going to be a show car or anything =P.

I do realize the tubing cutter work hardens the material. I've tried a couple of different tools to cut it and then file it square, but I think I'm having better luck with the tubing cutter as long as I'm careful not to put much pressure on it and deform the metal. Using the flat side of the block looks like it might work out well, also.

I appreciate the help. Any and all additional suggestions are certainly welcome!

[ej68bird]

I'm doing a little bit better than before but I still screw up more times than not, and it's really frustrating.

This begs the questions: how balls on does this have to be? This is the brake system and I am certainly not going to put my life in danger to get my car on the road a few days sooner and for a few less dollars. Most of you have wayyyy more experience than I do, and if you say it has to be perfect then I'm going to make sure everything is perfect. But if you think being a hair off is acceptable, well you'll just make my day.

Thank you again.

[Apogee]

It's funny, because sometimes flares that look spot-on won't seal no matter how much you try and others that I'd swear wouldn't seal in a million years, do so in a matter of seconds. Anything off center though is typically more problematic than other types of flaring issues with regards to sealing in my experience.

We use a Mastercool hydraulic flaring tool and can consistently get really nice flares with very little effort. As for cutting the tubing, we'll normally use a tubing cutter and then hit it on the belt sander to remove the burr and work-hardened material. A quick blast with compressed air to blow out any dust and you're good to go.

Tobin
KORE3

[sik68]

I was in your situation 2 weeks ago and I think I solved it. What you MUST do is make sure that the halves of the flaring tool are at the same height. You should be able to run the "button" across the surface. For me, this produced flares that weren't crooked.

[Rick Dorion]

I had that rpoblem too. I took the easy (and expensive) way out and bought the Mastercool hydraulic flaring tool. It is the best. I've done flares on the vehicle with no problems and perfect results. Over a few lifetimes it'll amortize itself to a reasonable cost/flare!

[CarlC]

The smaller the tube, the more difficult it becomes to bench double flare. Less than 1/2 of the time could I achieve a decent double flare on 3/16". I finally gave up and use stainless single flares.

The hydraulic tools work very well but are kinda spendy.

[TA219]

i found a local brake supplier that normally does work on big rigs. I bought the line from them, took it home and bent / cut where i wanted it , then took it back and they flared all of the ends for me. The cost was $1.50 an end.... but it was worth it for me because i didnt ruin any line, i know it is right, and with all of the costs involved, i still came out much cheaper than buying pre-bent line

[jpdeuce]

Will the mastercool hydraulic double flare stainless? I have been wanting one of them for a while now but haven't heard first hand if it will do the stainless double flares. From past experiences I have had lots of trouble getting the block to hold the tube as its being compressed, especially with stainless. Even with it in a vise.

CarlC, you say your doing single flare on stainless? What degree flare are you doing? Are you using the standard an type fittings?

[gearheads78]

Will the mastercool hydraulic double flare stainless? I have been wanting one of them for a while now but haven't heard first hand if it will do the stainless double flares. From past experiences I have had lots of trouble getting the block to hold the tube as its being compressed, especially with stainless. Even with it in a vise.

CarlC, you say your doing single flare on stainless? What degree flare are you doing? Are you using the standard an type fittings?

Yes it will and does a great job. I love mine.

[CarlC]

37* AN, and I use a standard Imperal tool. I have also done 45* SAE stainless single flares.

[ROOSTER007]

While we are on the subject of flaring , has anyone used Bundy tubing , for your brake lines

[ej68bird]

Well I've been practicing my a** off, taking everyone's suggestions, and I just can't get this down. I have a few that look good, but I think I'm going to just bend the rest up and find a shop to flare the ends. Thanks for all your help guys.

@ROOSTER - Last time I checked Bundy tubing = standard mild steel, but what do I know?? =)

[George]

I can get my ends straight but I kept breaking the pin off of the insert piece. Not sure why, i went through 3 tools to get it right before I finished my brakes.

[Twentyover]

While we are on the subject of flaring , has anyone used Bundy tubing , for your brake lines

Most all raw brake lines you buy are Bundy. It's tubing that has essentially been doubele rolled over itself, so there are two material thickness'. It's pretty much the US standard stuff.

[ROOSTER007]

When I did the lines on my el camino , I had went to NAPA and bought the flaring tool from them and raw line , and started having problems like the ones some of you guys were describing , and one of my friends dad suggested I order some bundy tubing from McMaster-Carr . The "bundy tubing " seemed a little bit softer

[Skip Fix]

I've got two differnt double flair tools. BOTH clamps every time I try the initial flair pushes the tubing out like it isn't held in tight enough, so it doesn't give a good start.Gave up on my tubing skills!