Why the Camaro is in a coma.....

[CarlC]

For the past year I have been preparing a new driveline for the Camaro. There was really nothing wrong with the previous setup, it’s just that I have always wanted to install a supercharged LS/T56 into the car. Well, it's in, but not quite ready to go.

The basic engine is nothing fancy. It’s a 2002 Z28 engine that still has the stock rings, pistons, and bearings. The internals were in superb condition for a 25K mile engine. The primary modifications are ARP rod bolts, Cometic MSL gaskets, Z06 valve springs, Ferra exhaust valves, and a Lingenfelter GT2-3 cam (207/220 @ 0.050”, 0.571”/0.578” 118.5 LSA).

The supercharger is a Magnuson Products MP112 kit that is basically a 2004 GTO setup with an LS2 throttle body and MAF. Since the GTO and F-body share the same accessory drive system it was a no-brainer. Though it does not make a ton of top-end power, it should peak at 500RWHP and make approximately 430 ft-lb of torque starting at 1700 RPM and go up from there. I’m following Magnuson’s lead on the build since the goal is to have a setup that will make really good power throughout the entire powerband, have good reliability, and get good gas mileage. It should make 27-28mpg on the highway if I keep my foot out of it. In other words, I want the best of all worlds.

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The previous KSE power steering reservoir is being used but is mounted on the engine. The stock CB pump inlet was modified by Lee’s to accept a threaded O-ring fitting/-10. A close 90* by Earl’s just barely fits, but the pump is at a very slight angle. It won’t hurt performance, just looks a hair odd if you really look at it. The mounting bracket fits in a hole that clamps the upper and lower halves of the manifold base. It works fine but is cosmetically challenged. I may not change it since the air intake tubes may cover it all.

The engine mounting plates and transmission crossmember are made by ATS. The fore/aft and vertical positioning of the engine is outstanding. There is enough room for the blower and wiring harness, and the seriously thick C&R radiator/Mark VIII fan just barely fits. There is enough room to route the fuel line down the back of the engine and then across to the frame rail. This allows for at least 6” of clearance to any exhaust component in the engine bay, and since this is a C5 Corvette single-line system, the less heat into the line, the better. The flexible lines on the engine and filter are all Teflon components wrapped in silicone/fiberglass heat sleeve with shrink-wrapped ends.

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The headers are from Stainless Works. With David Pozzi’s help they were modified to fit the ATS adapter plate system. The worst offending tube is #3. Here’s what needs to be done to get a good fitment:

1) Cut the #3 tube approximately 1” from the flange.
2) Cut the #3 tube approximately 1” from the start of the top/aft bend that begins at the long section heading downward.
3) Purchase a 2”R 180* stainless U-bend. Hooker makes the least expensive. One end of the U-bend leg will be used to extend the #3 tube that was cut in (2). Do not weld into place. It will need to be adjusted for length in (5.)
4) Cut an approximate 90* section from the U-bend leaving an approximate 2” straight leg on one end. The 2” leg will go aft, the other to the cut #3 tube on the flange. Leave the leg long and final fit it in (5.) This 90* section will need to be rotated counter-clockwise vs. the position of the original. This effectively moves the tube up and away from the power steering box.
5) Using the twisty removed section of the #3 tube, align it the same way as removed to the 1” section and to the aft end of the #3 tube. Also align it to the 90* added in (4). Tack weld into position.
6) Cut a small wedge radius tube to bridge the gap between the tubes.
7) Weld it all back up.

Be sure to cut in places that you can have access to with a welding torch. David had a tough time getting to one of them but he finally had his way with it.

There is a rectangular boss on the aft engine block near the deck surface that that will need to be filed down to clear the #3 tube.

The #1 tube needed an ever so slight dimple to clear the stock power steering forward/inner/top cover bolt mounted in David’s frame. Maybe 1/8” total, hardly noticeable. In my frame with the 600-series box it would not have been needed. There is enough clearance with the 600 box that no modifications may be needed.

The passenger side fits fine. It has approximately 3/8” clearance to the idler arm, and that’s more than the old Hooker’s that were supposedly made for the car.

With the modifications made the stock spark plug wires would no longer fit. So, I found some 45* boots from http://shop.kingsborne.com (http://shop.kingsborne.com/) for a great price. The stock boot was removed, the spark plug terminal bent to a 45*, and reassembled using dielectric grease. They fit great and were very inexpensive.

In all, there’s about $40 in parts to make the modifications + welding.

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The fuel tank is a Rick’s piece with a Walbro 255lph pump. Teflon lines and Russell adapters were used to connect the Corvette C5 fuel pressure regulator. On the engine side of the FPR a standard swaged-tube that snaps into the end was used. The opposite end of the tube connects to a short Teflon line so that maintenance will be easy. On stock F-bodies there is a factory hole in the top of the differential tunnel that can be used to mount the FPR.

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The wiring harness is an ’04 GTO part modified to fit the ECM on the front of the LH side wheelwell next to the fender. A 4th gen bracket is used to mount the ECM. The harness is just barely long enough, and will require some measure of gymnastics to get the connectors in.

Next to go in is the exhaust, air intake, and intercooler system.

Updates to follow.

[MrQuick]

Nice work Carl, (and Mr Pozzi) thanks for the insite.

I was wondering how the mods were going.

[BossaNova]

Carl, when you pull this off, you will indeed have the best of both worlds.
Great job!
-Mark

[gearbanger]

Are the steering boxes in those cars aluminum? I would love to be able to get a lightweight aluminum P.S. box for my A-body. I wonder if that could be made to work?

[DJW32]

Great work!

[Hidro]

"430 ft-lb of torque starting at 1700 RPM" = :evil:

Very nice setup, keep us updated.

:drive:

[Chad-1stGen]

Nice update Carl. I've been wondering how your swap is progressing. You do first rate work.

[Young Gun]

looks awsome! any pics of the rest of the car?

[BA.]

nice update Carl! glad to see it coming along.

I was a bit shocked to see that you had to modify the header, I hadn't heard of anyone doing that yet with those parts you have.

I'm sure you researched the hell out of the blower choices..... Is there any concern about underhood heat buildup?

[CarlC]

Are the steering boxes in those cars aluminum? I would love to be able to get a lightweight aluminum P.S. box for my A-body. I wonder if that could be made to work?

No. They are cast iron. They just look aluminum due to the ceramic coating DSE uses. The 6XX series is lighter than the original box.


looks awsome! any pics of the rest of the car?

Check my sig below.


I was a bit shocked to see that you had to modify the header, I hadn't heard of anyone doing that yet with those parts you have.

I'm sure you researched the hell out of the blower choices..... Is there any concern about underhood heat buildup?

Fitting LS conversion headers in 1st gen's is not a slam dunk unless the adapter plates, mounts, crossmember, and headers are all purchased from the same company. However, since stainless was a must, the engine needed to be back and down as far as reasonably possible, and I cannot afford ATS headers, I felt the best option was to rework the SW parts. There was no way that they would fit the ATS plates using a stock PS box. They may fit the 6XX box but I did not know, and did not have the time to wait, to find out. Better safe than sorry. The headers, as modified, are so easy to install it's not even funny. The passenger goes in from the top, and the drivers from the bottom with the car up at a reasonable working height.

The blower is the same as used in most LS1/2 applications that Magnuson builds and includes a water-to-air intercooler. I'm opting for the biggest high temperature radiator offered and will modify the hood latch support a bit to make it fit. The engine compartments of GTO's, Vette's, Caddy's, etc is a lot more compact than the Camaro's so heat buildup from the headers should not be a problem.

Magnuson has been a customer of mine since the day they opened, so you could say I've been lucky to see and touch a lot of very cool projects and the evolution of a very successful technology into our hobby.

[Young Gun]

wow just went through your site carl, and damn that is one hot camaro...nice work through and through!

[6'9"Witha69]

Carl, good to see you're progressing on the conversion. How long til she can make a run up ACH?

[Johnny Blaze]

Nice!

[David Pozzi]

Carl, Great to see your progress!
David

[CarlC]

Carl, good to see you're progressing on the conversion. How long til she can make a run up ACH?

Hey Nick,

I wish I knew. The mountain is installed, but all of those grains of sand in the shoes that wear you down are taking a lot of time.

Cold air intake: If all goes well cold air will come from the factory hole in the cowl hood. It's by far the toughest project to figure out how to get done so it works and looks right.

New carpet, relocate shifter hole and repair previous, new firewall pad, OBD2 port wiring, modifying factory speedo for electronic keeping stock face, speedo wiring, etc.

Finish underhood wiring from ECM into cabin (OBD2 port, speedo, tach, fuel relay, intercooler relay, ignition and sensor relay, etc.

Modify hood support to fit intercooler, intercooler mtg. brackets, weld new hose connections onto tanks.

Finish DSE RS headlamp door motor wiring.

It might be fall before all of the bugs are worked out. I hope sooner, but time flys and I'm not missing any of my son's baseball games or practices.

[6'9"Witha69]

It might be fall before all of the bugs are worked out. I hope sooner, but time flys and I'm not missing any of my son's baseball games or practices.Definitely don't miss out on that. The car will be there later. The memories, you need to be there in order to create those.

[streetk14]

Hey Carl,
Glad to see that "my" engine is finally sitting in the car :cheers:

So you went with a C5 regulator/filter mounted at the rear of the car? I've been thinking about changing up my fuel system due to high fuel temperatures after long driving caused by my dual line fuel system and Walbro 255 pump.

What do you plan to do (if anything) about increasing fuel pressure to compensate for boost? Are you just planning to tune for it, or what? I'm curious to hear your plan, because that C5 filter is readlily available and inexpensive.

My dual line system also makes it impossible to run those clean looking GTO engine covers sice my 2 lines won't fit inside that little tunnel in the cover.

Andy

[CarlC]

Hey Andy,

I'm not using the OE cover tunnel since the line comes up the RH side of the car. I did not want to have any more heat soak time than necessary, hence the "T" on the aft RH rail.

Magnuson is more than comfortable using the 255 with the Corvette FPR. Supposedly the tune that Germanson put in is close, based a lot on the C5/Lingenfelter LS1 GT2-3, but when the time comes they will final tune it.

[neki67]

Hate it Carl . . . .

:sick: (< me being sick from envy)

René , whowishesthathedidnotonlyhavethesamerearspringsonh iscarasCarl.

[trapin]

Nice work, Carl. I have those same Stainless Headers and they went in and cleared the power steering box with no problem using the S&P plates. The drawback however is that the engine will be far forward of where the ATS plates can get you. You made the right choice having Dave at your disposal. If I had to weld mine up I'd be lost. LOL!!!

500rwhp? That thing is gonna SCREAM!

[streetk14]

Hey Andy,

I'm not using the OE cover tunnel since the line comes up the RH side of the car. I did not want to have any more heat soak time than necessary, hence the "T" on the aft RH rail.

Magnuson is more than comfortable using the 255 with the Corvette FPR. Supposedly the tune that Germanson put in is close, based a lot on the C5/Lingenfelter LS1 GT2-3, but when the time comes they will final tune it.


So what are you doing about the port on the driver's side rail where the fuel manifold is supposed to bolt up to? Also, what mods were required to put that T on the right fuel rail? I like that setup you've got there.

I'm not sure if you were aware that John Germanson recently passed away. It's very sad to hear about things like this, I think it was some kind of cancer.

Andy

[CarlC]

Yes on all counts. Unfortunately, I missed the funeral.

Magnuson makes a plate that will cover the LH side fuel inlet, or you can swap out the rail. It is VERY tight getting the rail to go up and rotate to clear everything. The plate can be easily made.

Basically I swapped out the RH side aft -6/o-ring straight fitting for a -6/o-ring "T". To make up for the difference in length I cut the stainless tube to fit a M/F elbow. The tube will need to be re-flared.

[CarlC]

It's been a while, but it is getting close to firing up.

The wiring has been a killer. I elected to integrate all of the PCM and sensor systems into the factory Camaro harnesses. In conjuction with this new Hella headlamps, DSE RS door systems, ECM/Intercooler power center, and WeatherPack connectors are being used. I'll have pics shortly.

The latest project is the console. I'm being stubborn about keeping the tick-tock-tach, which has limited the ability to add two additional gauges. Since the car needs a boost and voltage gauge, I opted to take a different path to get to additional gauges mounted.

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It's two Autometer gauge pods grafted together. There's at least 10 hours of cutting, trimming, fitting, filing, etc. It needed to be slid forward/cut, and widened 3/32" on each side toward the rear since the console opening tapers. In order to fit this part all of the stock horizontal console bracing needs to be removed and replaced with fab'ed parts. The forward part of the console where the standard Autometer pod mounts needs to be removed and an entire new mounting system made. Lots of work to mount two silly gauges.

The aft shifter plate is made of 0.060" aluminum and curved to match the gauge pod. The shifter boot ring is from a BMW 528e, and my mom (Thanks!) sewed up a new boot to fit the Hurst shifter handle.

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The stock Hurst shifter was also modified internally by changing the centering springs. $4 worth of springs vs. $150 for a new shifter was not adding up to me.

[Flash68]

Nice work on the gauges/console. Looks very nice!

[rsk68]

Carl,
Console looks very nice, hope you get it running for the next ACH trip.

[Chad-1stGen]

Agreed, the console came out very nice!

[David Pozzi]

Carl,
I was wondering about how much room the extra plumbing and heat exchanger take up in the engine compartment.

I have a choice to make on my 67, - go with a Brodix block 427 stroker with NASCAR 18 deg heads, with Hilborn injection converted to EFI like the first non-turbo Mule engine, or I have an LS2 that I could just add a supercharger to. I'm trying to figure which would have less weight and have good response for autocross, open track and street.

Is the torque curve pretty smooth on your combo? How about blower whine issues? I haven't driven or ridden in a Magnuson equipped car.
David

PS, I should actually get some work done on my 67 this winter!!!

[maldo]

nice

[CarlC]

David,

The the high temperature radiator in in the manifold. The other major components not seen in the engine picture that are needed are the LTR, pump, and reservoir. The LTR mounts in front of the radiator and can be had in a variety of sizes. Mounting the LTR is the next biggie.

The other Magnuson equiped cars that I have driven have some whine under load, but most of the time it's hardly noticeable.

The blower, not including the LTR and pump, is 65#. One big advantage to using the blower is that a very small cam can be used, and hence very nice idle, cruise, mileage, and low-end torque. I'm using a 208/[email protected]" 118.5LSA.

[David Pozzi]

Carl,
Thanks for the info.
That's gonna be nice...
David

[CarlC]

Last Saturday was the maiden voyage, but only around the block a few times to make sure everything basically worked. It started so easily that I could not believe it. After dealing with distributors and carb’s my whole life, this thing is a dream come true.

Today was a bit different. I stretched her legs. More on that a bit later.

I have not been updating this as I should have, but here are some pics of a few new items not previously mentioned and some lessons learned the hard way.

The engine is basically complete. The cold air box needs to be built to seal off the front RH corner of the engine bay. Cold air will come in from between the radiator support and the hood along with a hole cut in the front of the support. The intake tube is from an ’06 GTO with a few straight aluminum tubes sections and silicone elbows. It gets very tight around the radiator hoses. It would have been easier to route this to the drivers side except that the GTO engine wiring harness would not reach to the RH side. If I ever do it again I’ll extend the harness to fit. As it is the GTO is just barely long enough to reach the front LH side.

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The intercooler reservoir is mounted on a hand-made bracket so that it is the highest point in the system. The canister against the firewall is a Mann – Hummel OE spec oil separator. It’s plumbed in-line with the PCV system. It has an automatic drain system and super nice filter media. It takes about 12 seconds to remove the filter for cleaning. The hardest part to adapt this filter is that the in/outlets are set up for 5/8” hose, so adapters must be made to fit 3/8” PCV lines.

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The intercooler is from a C5 Corvette application. It’s a 5# intercooler in a 5# hole. I painted it black for stealth. The mounting brackets on the bottom are the only attachement points. Two foam pads on the upper rear of the IC along with a pad on the front under the hood latch hold it in place very securely. I tried to mount the IC pump up inside of the fender near the DSE headlight motors but found that there was insufficient head to feed the pump. Bummer, it was a really clean mount. Now the pump is mounted in the engine bay near the radiator outlet.

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Here are the oil lines coming off of the ATS pan. The ATS pan comes with two -12 fittings that come straight down. The car already had -10 hoses and fittings, so I had do use adapters to make everything fit. Even so, it would have been much more convenient and cleaner if both fittings turned 90* to the front of the engine. The option of a -10 connection would have made it much easier as well. Fitting -12 hoses would have been pretty tough given with the power steering lines and return hoses all fit through the same spot, making space a premium along the side of the pan.

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The header fitment is great. With the spark plug wire modifications there are zero problems with heat or electronic noise. The Lokar oil dipstick, peeking out just under the #4 plug boot, required making a “Z” bracket to allow attachment to the head. The standard bracket will not fit with headers. The header bolts did require retightening after startup.

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The ECM is mounted under the fender on the front of the LH fenderwell. An F-body bracket was modified so that it could be bolted through the fenderwell. All of the power for the engine also comes from the Painless power center. The power center mounts to a plate that bolts to the radiator support through two holes that are already there. It extends almost all the way out to the outer fender and mounts the power center, two headlight relays, DSE headlight controller, 60A main circuit breaker, 25A headlight circuit breakers, and a + power distribution block. Everything is tagged using a DYMO label maker and Weatherpack connected. It gets very busy in there. The foam block helps keep the ECM from vibrating. Wiring diagrams were also made of all the circuitry.

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A new power panel was made for the trunk to fit circuit breakers for the fuel pump and stereo amplifier. There is also a small bypass to allow the various memories and interior lights to remain functional when the main power is turned off.

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Mounted on the aft trunk latch support is a Ford fuel cutoff breaker. If the car is hit hard it will automatically trip the internal breaker and immediately shut down power to the fuel pump. To reset it just push the red button. It may be overkill since the ECM will kill the fuel relay after a few seconds of the engine not running, but I don’t like fires one little bit. The fuel pump relay is mounted on the other side of the latch support and is pretty well hidden from view.

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The exhaust consists of 3” stainless headpipes, 3” Dr. Gas X-pipe, 3” stainless pipes into 3” – 2-1/2” Flowmaster reducing cones, Magnaflow stainless mufflers, and 2-1/2” Flowmaster tailpipes that end at the rear tires. I was worried about this system being too loud since the muffler is a straight-through design. No worries there, it is much quieter than the previous setup with Super Turbo mufflers. The much milder cam and smaller engine size help a bunch as well. This whole thing was done while lying on my back with the car on jackstands. I hate exhaust systems almost as much as the cost of paying someone to build it the way I want it done.

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The interior also received a few modifications. The speedo is currently out being modified by Redline Gaugeworks for an electronic speedometer upgrade. It will use the ECM output and will incorporate an engine malfunction light as well. The tack will also be reset to work in 4-cylinder mode so that it too can interpret the ECM signal. The center console is complete with the six-gauge pod and shifter plate.

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Thanks to Mike (mkelcy) I had to buy a center console armrest. This thing is really nice to have. I forgot how comfortable one of these things can be. I took Mike’s advice and added a small bracket that extends down into the seatbelt well so that the console will not slide back.

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So, how does it drive?

After having nothing but carbureted fun-cars it is a pleasure having EFI, especially an OE system. Turn the key, it starts. It idles nicely, it makes little exhaust fuel smell, etc. With the small camshaft (208/218 @0.050 118.5LSA) it is very easy to drive at slow speeds. The LS7 clutch is hilariously easy to drive. My buddy, who has a Keisler hydraulic setup on his TKO, thought that the clutch was not working properly since it was so easy to push in. No drama, no grabbiness, no nothing. It just works great. Cruising around town is effortless, and 6th gear at 65mph is easy.

Now, here’s three things that I did not expect:

1) It is deceptively fast. Since it is so much quieter and has so much less drama than the old setup, you THINK that the car is going slower. The annihilation of the rear tires through many of the gears and the really cool whine from under the hood tells my brain something else.
2) It cruises even better than expected.
3) Even with the blower setup, it is lighter than the iron small block. I had to lower the front end of the car ½” to account for weight loss.

It’s still on the rough tune. Final tuning will happen at Magnuson the week after next. With the final tune and a cold air box it will get even better. After almost a year (many delays due to work) it was a relief to be able to drive her again.

[Lance-W]

Very nice. I can't wait to see it in person.

[icebird84]

I like your center console it looks good
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[rocketrod]

Great work and thanks for sharing the details of your conversion!

[Gearhead Dude]

That's a really nice setup. I've got a friend with a supercharged Cobra, and that things an animal, especially at low rpms! After riding in it, I vowed to transplant a supercharged LS engine in a project car someday. I appreciate all the details you've included. It saves soem of us some headaches.:twothumbs

[6'9"Witha69]

Congrats Carl. Can't wait to see her on the road this month!

[Motown 454]

Wow your making a very nice car even better. Awesome drive train. The console looks great.
Wayne

[Steve1968LS2]

Very nice... can't wait till it's done and I can check it out in person.

Hey, how about something for our f-body garage section?

[Steve1968LS2]

Mounted on the aft trunk latch support is a Ford fuel cutoff breaker. If the car is hit hard it will automatically trip the internal breaker and immediately shut down power to the fuel pump. To reset it just push the red button. It may be overkill since the ECM will kill the fuel relay after a few seconds of the engine not running, but I don’t like fires one little bit. The fuel pump relay is mounted on the other side of the latch support and is pretty well hidden from view.


Hey Carl, I have one of those as well, but I was told you also need the wiring pigtail from Ford. Is that correct? If so do you have the part number. I would like to do a little safety tech story on it.

[CarlC]

Thanks for the compliments guys!

Steve,

I got the parts from the boneyard. There's about 1000 of them at Pick-a-Part to choose from. I just cut the wires and put in in-series with the primary + feed. I cannot tell if the plug is mandatory (blade connectors) without dismounting it. There is a mounting bracket that is also used but in not necessary. It could have been used but would have left the ends of the studs sticking out into the trunk area and create a cutting hazard.

Since they are mounted from Ford in the trunk/hatch area usually behind some kind of panel they are usually in pristine condition. I agree with having this as a tech article. Given what can happen if an electric pump runs unchecked after an accident, this is cheap insurance.

Check out the Cruise the Crest thread in Non-Racing Events. The 21st is coming soon!

[1969CamaroRS]

Love the center console with the 6 gauge pod. Very interesting engine build, sounds killer.



I would like to do a little safety tech story on it.

I'd love to read an article like that Steve. Planning on installing a ford inertial switch as well.

[6'9"Witha69]

Love the center console with the 6 gauge pod. Very interesting engine build, sounds killer.
If only you knew what it took to make that!! I saw it raw a couple months ago and he showed all the detail it took to make it look and fit perfectly. Trust me, Carl is a nut for detail and fit. It shows in how he builds his car. Truly an awesome build made better.

[Chad-1stGen]

wooohooo! I'm excited for you Carl. You must be pretty happy everything worked out so well for the maiden voyage, though if anyone can have a smooth one it's you with your attention to detail.

Can't wait to see the car.

[Rick Dorion]

Very nice, Carl! And that's an understatement. Did the T56 come with the motor? Is is stock?

[trapin]

That's awesome Carl. Congrats on getting it running again. I love how the engine looks in there.

[CarlC]

Thanks Tony!

Hey Rick,

The engine/trans/ECM all came from an '02 Camaro so it was nice to know that everything worked together.

The T56 is basically stock except for a steel 3-4 fork. I replaced the reverse synchro and resealed it. The rest of it was well within Tremec spec's for wear so I saw no reason to throw more money at it. I'm not going to put slicks on it and dump the clutch so the stock output shaft should be sufficient. It starts to get pretty pricey if all the bells and whistles are thrown at it.

[Bow Tie 67]

Now, here’s three things that I did not expect:

1) It is deceptively fast. Since it is so much quieter and has so much less drama than the old setup, you THINK that the car is going slower. The annihilation of the rear tires through many of the gears and the really cool whine from under the hood tells my brain something else.
2) It cruises even better than expected.
3) Even with the blower setup, it is lighter than the iron small block. I had to lower the front end of the car ½” to account for weight loss.

It’s still on the rough tune. Final tuning will happen at Magnuson the week after next. With the final tune and a cold air box it will get even better. After almost a year (many delays due to work) it was a relief to be able to drive her again.

Nice job, I doubt I will ever mess with a carb or traditional sbc again. These LS engines are just that much better.

[CarlC]

Agreed. The best analogy that I've heard is that the traditional small block is a Timex, the LS series is a Rolex.

[protour_chevelle]

we need some rape videos. I wanna hear it whine!!

[CarlC]

Latest updates.

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The speedometer and tach are back in the car. Both were modified by Redline Gaugeworks to work with the GM PCM outputs. The tachometer, which was re-done many years ago by North Hollywood Speedometer, was reset to work in 4-cylinder mode but could not be fine-tuned to read accurately at the upper RPM range. So, a new modern VDO movement was installed, along with a new VDO speedometer movement. The retrofit required making a new brushed aluminum center plate and making new graphics for the speed numbers. To get it perfect would have also meant replacing the hash marks, but that started getting too expensive, and it is really not noticeable during normal driving. The odometer is digital and had a trip feature as well. After a lot of years dealing with mechanical speedometers, it is nice to have a rock-solid speedometer needle at every speed. An amber check engine/MIL light was also added just below the turn signal indicator.

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The car was dyno tuned last Tuesday at Magnuson Products. The car had been idling at about 1000 RPM, higher than it should be, and I figured they could work their magic to fix it. After almost three hours of trying to chase vacuum leaks it was found that the 90mm UMI throttle body likely is not completely sealing at the throttle blade. It idles at 850 RPM, no biggie, but I will need to have a discussion with UMI on how to prove my dilemma to them.

Results? The best we could do was 465 RWHP at 7psi boost but the tires were spinning on the rollers. The autocross tires on the car just did not want to stick even with a bunch of guys sitting in/on the car. So there's more in it from a dyno-numbers perspective, but the tune is very safe/rich on the top-end so the car be hammered at the track without fear of burning something up. It also makes 410 ft-lbs of torque at 2200 RPM.

I could not push it hard after the dyno run since it was raining on the way home. Normal driveability is just like a stock '02 Z28. It even cruises in 6th gear at 1500 RPM without any complaint because of the small camshaft. The top-end power it had before tuning was great, more than enough for the chassis, and me, to need to be very effective.

[DJW32]

Carl,
I have been following this build for a long time...your detail is outstanding! Are you running meth to keep the IAT's down? Very cool project!

[CarlC]

Thanks for the compliments DJ.

No meth. I'm trying to keep it as simple as possible.If at some point it is necessary it can easily be plumbed in, but at the low boost levels it should not be needed.

IAT's are pretty good now since the weather is cool. I'm working with one of the Magnuson fabricators to make a cold air box that will fit in the original battery location and draw fresh air from the front of the radiator support.

[Steve1968LS2]

How's everything now that the outside temps are getting up there?

[zman1969]

Carl, nicely done sir! I've seen alot of the articals and mods youve done in the past and I wondered when your car would become LS powered, im interested in a blower for mine someday if it ever runs and BTW you do a nice job with your writeups/photos! keep up the good work!

[MickMc]

Carl

Nice little write up in Popular Hot Rodding.





Mick

[CarlC]

No problems yet, but I do need to fab a cold air box. I guess packing and moving the house is more important in my wifes eyes.

Thanks Rick!

Mick,

Thanks. I have not seen it yet. I'm having a hard time finding the latest copy.

[Steve1968LS2]

When I get some of the new PHRs I will send you a couple. :)

[JEFFTATE]

Congrats on the magazine coverage Carl !!
I just got my June'09 PHR . Good article .
It's cool to see an LS motor update to your car .

I also still have the Jan.'06 Chevy Hi-Perf issue with you on the cover.
Good stuff ...

[aray327]

I guess i need to head to the bookstore for a new magazine. I'm sure there will be more inpiration from you to be had in the read.

[1969CamaroRS]

Carl

Nice little write up in Popular Hot Rodding.





Mick

Oh what is the subject? My bet is the recent engine swap?

Congrats Carl on whatever it is!