Wilwood Front Brakes Locking Up

[insane1]

Hey guys I've looked around here for a while but I have a question, so finally regestered.

I've installed a Wilwood disc kit front, and rear on a 71 Ford LTD conv., and having problems w/the front brakes locking up.

Right now I have the original master, disc/drum (will be replacing soon w/a disc/disc master), and still have the original proportioning/metering valve. I have added a Wilwood proportioning in the rear.

Just trying to get the car mobile for now. In the prosses of bleeding the brakes, and the front will completly locked up until I let pressure off the lines. The rear seems to be working ok for now.

Is there a problem because of useing the factory proportioning/metering valve??? That is the only thing I can think of. Any help, or suggestions is very much appreciated.

[David Pozzi]

It sounds like the system is not allowing fluid to vent back to the master cyl. A bad brake hose, or master cyl that does not allow the piston to fully return can do that.

After applying the brakes, crack open the brake line at the master cyl, it it releases, then you know the master cyl is the problem, - or master cyl pushrod adjustment.
David

[insane1]

Thanks for the response cause I'm at a loss. I have braided lines insted of the rubber, and the fluid seems to be flowing good. I will try loosing the line at the master, and see if that is my issue.

Thanks again

[HILROD]

The trouble is the factory prop valve. Some Fords have a removeable cover on the valve. You can get a kit with a different cover that guts out the valve. Most Mustang suppliers sell it.

[Skip Fix]

Sounds almost like the drum residual pressure valve is in the line, or maybe you just need more rear brake to even it out from the prop valve. I'd just T the fronts and use and adjustable in the rear line if you have 4W discs now(you said front and rear Wilwoods right?). Some masters have the residual pressure valve built in under a brass press in fitting for the flair in the line.

[insane1]

Yes I have wilwoods on the front, and on the rear.

Today I took off the factory proportioning valve and was able to gut the inside of it, so it should now just be a junction block. Then I was looking at the factory front tee on the front crossmember, and realized that it is a metering valve. So tomorrow I will replace that w/just a tee block, and cross my fingers.

Thanks for the responses. I will keep this updated in hopes that this might help someone else out in the future. Especially since I know us Ford guys are far, and few inbetween.

[HILROD]

Just make sure when you reworked the valve that it still seperates the front and rear lines. If not any leaks can cause total failure.

[insane1]

Actually I was thinking about that today when I replaced the metering valve. So....... tomorrow I will reroute the lines.

[insane1]

Ok here is the updat that I said that I would post. Insalled Wilwoods polished, tandem master, rerouted all the lines under the hood. Front runs off the front of the master, then tees to each wheel. The rear line runs to the rear where the proportioning valve is, and Bobs your uncle.

I want to thank everyone for their help, and input, hope this might help someone else in the future.

And by the way here's a pic of car (unfinished as of yet).

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/04/DSC04753-1.jpg

[gsxrken]

Hey, very nice car. Different!

[Skip Fix]

So it's working now?

[insane1]

Thanks, gsxrken.

Yea, Skip Fix, everything seems to be working just fine for now, but all I have done is move it around and it has a good firm pedal. I'm ready to drive it though, but I still have just a bit more till then.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/04/DSC04757-1.jpg

[Skip Fix]

Something can be said for keeping it simple, A T for the fronts and direct to the rear w/ maybe a n adjustable prop valve in line.