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View Full Version : 68 Camaro LS2 Header install PICS


Midnight68
03-12-2008, 10:08 PM
Ok so its a 68 Camaro with 327 frame stands and Stainless Works Headers, using the 62500 solid motor mounts, the conversion plates are cheap ones from ebay they are just like the ones below except they are 3/8" thick. I am running a 80's fast ratio ps box but i believe it is the same size as the original. The #1 tube is the closest to the PS box and I have a solid 3/8" clearance.




https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=15029&d=1168233187

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/03/IMAGE_157-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/03/IMAGE_156-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/03/IMAGE_120-1.jpg
rchaskin
03-13-2008, 03:18 AM
Looks great. Lots of room.

Which trans mount are you using?
How much firewall clearance?
ErikLS2
03-13-2008, 03:18 PM
Where are the pics?
chicane67
03-13-2008, 08:19 PM
You may (and most likely will) end up having knock sensor issues with the solid mounts.

Keep an eye/ear on that when you get it up and running.
trapin
03-14-2008, 08:40 AM
Yep...that's why I went with traditional rubber mounts.

Looks good. The fitment is just like on my car.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/01/2008077-1.jpg
Midnight68
03-14-2008, 03:32 PM
Hmm for sure something to think about. I had never even thought about that being an issue.
ErikLS2
03-14-2008, 06:55 PM
Tony or Midnight68, either of you guys run into problems with the brake booster hitting the engine? What's the A/C compressor clearance like? Thanks
Steve1968LS2
03-14-2008, 07:01 PM
You may (and most likely will) end up having knock sensor issues with the solid mounts.

Keep an eye/ear on that when you get it up and running.

Yep, they have a tendancy to trigger the knock sensors and that will cut timing and kill your power... and they also just generally suck to live with...
Steve1968LS2
03-14-2008, 07:02 PM
Oh, a rubber mount or even a poly mount will just raise your engine a tad and it looks like that would even give you more clearance.

I'm running Energy poly mounts.
CarlC
03-14-2008, 08:14 PM
Those look like the tall engine brackets. The short versions may create problems.
ErikLS2
03-16-2008, 06:35 PM
Check this out, I just measured my ATS plates (roughly anyway) and they are the exact same as those in the above diagram. They are of course on opposite sides so the engine mount can be installed upside down for desired placement.

I'm going to swap them around and order the Stainless Works headers and see if they fit. If I have to I'll just make my own frame stands from that point.

Erik
DarkoNova
03-16-2008, 09:11 PM
Ok, but how low are they? All the headers I've seen hang at least an inch below the frame and I can't have that because I already scrape on speed bumps if there's someone in the passenger seat.

Matt
trapin
03-17-2008, 06:32 AM
Tony or Midnight68, either of you guys run into problems with the brake booster hitting the engine? What's the A/C compressor clearance like? Thanks
I tried to test fit my original brake booster and it no longer fits with the LS1 in there. I am going to just go manual for a while until I can afford a Hydorboost. I'm not running AC on my car. I'm a Michigan boy...we like heat. LOL!!!
Midnight68
03-17-2008, 04:31 PM
I am running a 4th gen booster and have no problems with the booster hitting the engine. I am not running AC.

I will try to snap a picture of how low the headers hang.
trapin
03-18-2008, 11:11 AM
I'd like to see a pic of that 4th gen booster installed and what modifications you had to do (if any) to get it on there. Did it all just bolt right up?
Midnight68
03-18-2008, 07:19 PM
The booster was not terribly difficult but does require modifiction. I had cut of the studs on the 4th gen booster, then weld on some extra metal and drill some new holes for the studs to go through to line the pushrods up. I then cut and welded the new and old pushrods together. The only thing I would do different is use a c5 master cylinder so that the lines exit away from the motor.
I think it was well worth it and it works great with my c5 fronts and 4th gen rears.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/03/IMAGE_2121-1.jpg
DarkoNova
03-18-2008, 08:40 PM
Ok, but how low are they? All the headers I've seen hang at least an inch below the frame and I can't have that because I already scrape on speed bumps if there's someone in the passenger seat.

Matt

Anyone? How bout some under car shots to see how low the headers are.

Matt
Midnight68
03-20-2008, 05:12 PM
Here is a quick shot I only have the camera on my phone so sorry about the quality. The oil pan is even with the front cross member and the header are about even with the pan maybe a 1/2 inch lower. They are about a inch lower than the subframe.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/03/IMAGE_236-1.jpg
DarkoNova
03-20-2008, 08:08 PM
Nice, I may have to get a set of those. Can anyone confirm that the mounts used are identical to ATS pieces? I was going to get the plates from ATS just so I could use their headers some time in the future when I have the money.

Is there some place that sells these headers cheaper than other places? Also, what's the part number?

Thanks,
Matt
ErikLS2
03-21-2008, 09:52 AM
Nice, I may have to get a set of those. Can anyone confirm that the mounts used are identical to ATS pieces? I was going to get the plates from ATS just so I could use their headers some time in the future when I have the money.

Is there some place that sells these headers cheaper than other places? Also, what's the part number?

Thanks,
Matt

Matt, I did a "rough" measurement on my ATS plates and I'm sure they match the specs in the plate diagram above. I'll remove them this weekend and measure exactly to be sure.

However, on both the ATS plates and the ones in the diagram above the one motor mount bolt by itself goes directly through the plate and into the engine block boss, the other two side by side bolts just attach to the plate itself. That means any plates using this configuration would locate the motor mount in the same place. The difference with the ATS plates is they put the plates/mounts on opposite sides of the engine from where they would traditionally mount. The only other way to change the location of the engine is to move where the mount attaches to the plate or change the frame stands that go between the mount and the subframe. I've seen some diagrams that have 3 tapped holes in the plates that the engine mounts bolt too. I wouldn't be too comfortable with such a small thread engagement, at least in aluminum plates.

The guy from ls1speed.com on here claims to have Stainless Works headers in stock and for less than Jegs or from SW. I haven't personallyc ontacted him yet though but plan to.

Erik