Blending Clear

[Neil B]

I have a left rear quarter panel that needs paint repair. The shop wants to blend the metallic base color and then clear the entire quarter, but stop the clear where the b-pillar meets the roof line. The only alternative would be to clear the both rear quarters and the roof (which would require removing the front windshield molding to do it right). If I opt to just clear the left quarter and blend into the roof line, will this be noticeable? This is a 'nice' driver quality paint job, not a full-on show car.

Thanks. --Neil

[7TSS]

My painter told me that the clear blend would show after a while which is why I decided to repaint both quarters and the roof on my Chevelle.
I was told this by 2 other painters so I decided not to take a chance.
I'm curious what some of the painters on here have to say also.

[67velle]

I've been a painter foor 20 years now and I agree with the other painters.........The blend would look ok for now but after time I can see these blends ,the more you try to rub it out the worse it gets. I see this problem at car shows all the time. TODD

[danbob67]

painter here at 11 years Ive blended alot of quarters but I wouldnt do it on my own car over time it will show because you are putting new clear over partially unsanded old clear give it some time and it will show I would rather tape up the mouldings or pop them off and reclear the quarters and roof.

[GPI]

I agree with 67velle, its the better way to do it in the end.

[comp-spec]

Clear the roof and both qrts.. Theres's no way to make an invisible clear blend........ the right way is to clear complete planels and since there is no were to stop the clear you have to go over the roof and down the qrts
You can polish up your blend to look good but you'll see it

[bart007]

The so called clear blend is more of a burn in, or burn in the new clear to the old clear. I also agree w/the other posts, not the best plan. Lots of arguments with insurance companies on this subject, mainly to pay for a full reclear or just to burn in on the sail panels. I would do the full clear and would fight any insurance co. otherwise. Last statement may not apply, but good luck.

[tellyv]

I agree with what everybody else is telling you, if you must do a blend I have really good luck doing it this way where you blend sand the entire area with 1500 go up into the roof keep your blend in this area paint it and use clear blender most companies make it and when its done I'll go in and lightly sand the blend area with 2000 and buff in, so far Ive been lucky and have not had any comebacks, but I only do this on Insurance work never on any custom or completes so good luck.

[Neil B]

Thanks for the feedback guys. One more question...when you re-clear the roof on later model cars with flush-mount windshields (and rubber moldings), do you normally pull the windshield? I'm concerned about the clear eventually chipping off around the molding if it is just taped off. This isn't an insurance job. It's a driver-quality hot rod and track car (not a perfect show car). I'm just trying not to go overboard on the repair cost since it's my nickel.

[bart007]

The best way is to pull the glass, however is possible and if there is enough rubber, you can "rope" the glass. Which means raising the edge of the rubber with lifting tape and blowing paint in under the rubber edge. This insures there is not a clear coat tape line.

[tellyv]

Well this is what I do you can try to get tape under the moulding and pull it back towards the window or what works well is anything round rope, pencil etc, stuff it under the molding and it will stick in the space between the metal and the window and it will hold up the molding make sure you scotch brite in these areas very well to keep the clear from peeling. good luck