Stock subframe damage [Archive]

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01somta

01-20-2008, 09:17 AM

I tore down my stock subframe and notice all the oops that have happened to the subframe over the past 40 yrs. I have a couple hairline cracks, which I'm not to worried about. I'll probably just grind a groove in the cracks and then have it welded up. Then only real concern is a pretty big dig/dent in the frame. I was wondering what would be the best way to fix this, what about heating it up and then hammering it back in place? Here are a couple pics of the dig/dent and a couple of the cracks (close up and far away of the cracks).

Dent
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/01/SUBFRAME2MSPAINT-1.jpg
Dent
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/01/SUBFRAME3MSPAINT-1.jpg
PS crack close up
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/01/SUBFRAME4MSPAINT-1.jpg
PS crack far away
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/01/SUBFRAME6MSPAINT-1.jpg
DS crack close up
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/01/SUBFRAME7MSPAINT-1.jpg
DS crack far away
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2008/01/SUBFRAME9MSPAINT-1.jpg

MrQuick

01-20-2008, 11:46 AM

sorry to say but that area is bad. The direction the dent and location of the crack might indicate the frame being tweeked.

cad

01-20-2008, 11:50 AM

Due to that heavy of a hit, I would be on the lookout for a donor subframe from another nova or camaro. I dont believe that you can hammer from the inside of the frame.

68Formula

01-20-2008, 12:19 PM

Your only recourse is to buy a new DSE subframe. At least, that's what I would tell the wife. :naughty:

LowBuckX

01-20-2008, 01:31 PM

If you keep the sub make sure you "stop drill" that crack before welding.

Stop drilling is where you drill a hole at the end of the crack to effectivly stop its travel. even if making a weld repair it could still resplit and travel.... Crack ---------------O <"stop drilled" hole

Relax428

01-20-2008, 10:55 PM

It is possible to get a stock replacement Sub frame from BRP Hotrods in GA Just Google BRP Muscle rods and check them out

68Formula

01-21-2008, 12:19 AM

I think Speed Tech offers a frame with improved geometry that is compatible with stock other stock components (a-arms, anti-roll bar, etc.) If I was going to replace the frame it would not be one with stock geometry.

aonghus

01-21-2008, 04:14 AM

Either take your subframe to a reputable frame shop, and have them check it out (this can be a major PITA, especially if the subframe isn't on the car, as production tolerances in 1968 varied 1/8"+) or find a stock replacement.

A lot can be achieved with the stock subframe. Unless you've got the coin to throw around for the DSE setup, the best bang for the buck is going to be the Chicane-LM setup from ATS. But of course, thats my $.02.

68Formula

01-23-2008, 10:53 AM

Another option. Think of your end goals as far as how you want to build it, and add up the cost, it might be worth it.

https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38527

wendell

01-23-2008, 12:35 PM

Short of the impact on looks I wouldn't worry about the dent at all. Just put a tape on it to check that it's still square.

That said, I would be VERY worried about the cracks. Just got to the yard and get another one. They're cheap and plentiful.

Either that or you could go "Pro-touring" with an after market sub frame. If you pick the right one, after a couple grand you'll have a set up that's equal or maybe even a incrimentally better than a mildly modded stock set up. Do what ya like.

bmod28

01-25-2008, 10:05 PM

i did frame work in a chevy dealership body shop for 20 years and it looks like the horns could have been knocked over. that is where they will bend at the crossmember. measure at the end of the frame rail and see if one frame horn is higher than the other.

BonzoHansen

01-25-2008, 10:24 PM

Should be measurement charts on dave pozzi's website.

fireman68camaro

01-25-2008, 11:01 PM

I have a stock sub that I am not going to use intrested?

deuce_454

01-26-2008, 01:19 AM

My money would be spent on the chikane LM.. its always cheaper to do it right the first time....

by the time you are done straightening, and welding that one, you will have decided to atleast do a goldstrand mod, replace all the bushings and hardware.... propably some new controll arms... mediablast and paint... then the enevitable Brake question comes up.. and what about swaybar... etc etc....

The ATS unit adresses all that and its only a phonecall away... oh yeah.. and since you are a member here on PT, i guess handling isnt inconsequental either..??

Sparky67

01-26-2008, 11:56 AM

It is better to start with a striaight subframe than fixing it. I have one that was going on my car, but I went with the DSE subframe instead. The subframe has been modified with DSE Coilover conversion bracketry. We was in the process of smoothing it, and putting it in primer. Just drop me a PM if you are interested.

Jeff

http://www.kodakgallery.com/67rscamaro

348-4speed

01-26-2008, 12:07 PM

I would think a new subframe would be in order.

CamaroLance

02-15-2008, 02:04 PM

I'm in OKC and might just have a pretty cherry subframe available soon. It's on my 68 Camaro. Let me know if you might be interested.

I haven't really done a real close inspection on it, but it seems to be in really good shape.

01somta

02-15-2008, 04:38 PM