Second Gen Power to manual issues

[Skip Fix]

OK converting the 79 Camaro that will get the 500" Pontiac motor to manual brakes. The power booster rod is on only one side of the pedal and there is also alot of play in it so that helps offset it.


Now swapping to manual and using a clevis look where the pedal actually centers in the hole. Is there offset clevis? Instead of centering the clevis just put a nut in the middle and bolt it up?


FYI the MP adapter plate is not needed and doesn't fit the booster stud spacing. The MP rod is WAY too long and I don't think it can even be shortened enough to use.

[MrQuick]

Which pedals are you using? If I remember right...you need an early brake pedal. -73 i assume that you are running a man trans.

I suppose you can make a new clevis. also don't forget your rod retainer.

[SHANE 73Z]

Skip,

The MP rod is a cut-to-fit deal. I used it on my 73. I also ran into the same thing as you with the clevis. I pitched it & used a 3/8" rod end and bolt through the pedal.

Shane

[Skip Fix]

The rod end or cutting half the clevis off to offset it so it is just on one side of the pedal like the booster rod might do it.

The rod from MP is so long to get the right length I would have to cut off all the threads! The rod in it now is what came with the Strange Engineering MC, but it is almost too short.

[6'9"Witha69]

I had the same issue with my old Wowood MC, the rod was too long so that the clevis was all the way to the end of the threads and still too long. The rod also had a narrower shank than the threads so it coudn't be tapped either. I ended up using a 1/4" spacer b/w the MC and firewall to get the needed clearance.

[SHANE 73Z]

Who says you have to cut the threaded end? Cut the smooth end & round the end off in a bench grinder.

Shane

[Skip Fix]

Who says you have to cut the threaded end? Cut the smooth end & round the end off in a bench grinder.

Ahh hah!

But then the round end won't be as pretty:)

Yea I'm thinking cut one side off the clevis. It fits right in the hole for the brake light and still holds the sheet metal bracket for it.

[Skip Fix]

Mocked it up last night with it one one side of the pedal not straddling it. Seemed to get it about right. I'll use a nylon locking nut so it won't back off at speed!

68-70s Vette MC has a pretty deep recess to hold the rod in. Standard brakes 1", HD brakes 1 1/8" or a Strange or Wilwood aluminum one.

Heard there was an S-10 manual brake aluminum one but the recess isn't that deep.

Will have Wilwood 4 piston Dynalites on front and Wilwood metrics on the rear in place of the TA ratchet calipers(had an extra TA setup).

Although a rod end would be nice-source?

[SHANE 73Z]

Mcmaster Carr

Type in "rod end" on the search.

www.mcmaster.com (http://www.mcmaster.com)

Shane

[Skip Fix]

Thanks. Hole in the pedal is 7/16 now to check the threads on the rod. Thinking 3/8 fine thread.

[SHANE 73Z]

Skip,

Yes, I should have included that. 3/8"-24 (fine thread) & dont forget a jam nut.

Shane

[Skip Fix]

Most I saw for a 7/16 hole in the end , took a 7/16 thread for the rod also.

[SHANE 73Z]

Skip,

Thats true. most generally you will find that the thru-hole & shank are the same size. I was referring to female shank to mate to your pushrod. I am drawing a blank as to what I did for the thru bolt.:hand:

Shane

[Skip Fix]

Thanks for the help. Wil cut off the clevis to get it started until I can get the rod deal figured. I don't know if the hole in the end is hardened so it can't be drilled to 7/16.

[SHANE 73Z]

Skip,

You talkin about drilling through the ball in the rod end? If so, save yourself the frustration it is definately hardened.

Shane

[Skip Fix]

I thought they were. Maybe a sleeve for the pedal then.