4L80e Technical info needed

[406 Q-ship]

I was looking for a 4L80e too install in my 71 Monte Carlo. Well one came my way, it was said to be a 96 year model for 250 in core condition.

I picked it up today and it isn't quite as represented, it is a 1995 and when the junkyark butchers removed it from its parent vehicle, they basicly broke every one of the electronic connections. :machine: Instead of unplugging like most intelligent people do they ripped the plugs out breaking all the clips on the sensor connections, so now they connectors will become dislodged if they are used as is........:banghead:.

Here is my question can anyone decode the transmission for me and tell me definatively and what is less than desirable with the 1995 and earlier 4L80e. This is just more ammunition for if I have to return it :here!: Lucky for me the yard I went through is run by a friend who will take the yard that it came from too task.....he a real good Brooklyn boy with the attitude to match so the MF's will fly if they don't make it right.

Trans Code LL P the lower line of the ID plate 95 4353

Thank you for the help with this.

[Goatman]

Try the guys over at Yank transmission. They work on those things all day long.

[ls427ss]

Hope this helps you somewhat, it's all I have. On the bottom of this post is a good link to hi-perf trans parts etc.... Good luck... Larry

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

GM RWD Torque Converters
Starting 1980-up, GM used a 4-digit ID sticker located on the converter body to help identify it. Below is a guide to help decipher it's meaning.
1st Digit (application trans)
B -- THM250C, THM350C
C -- 200C, 2004R, Pre-1984 1/2: 325-4L & 700r4
D -- 1984 1/2-up 700r4, 4L60, 4L60-E2nd Digit (approx stall, depends on engine)
B -- 2025 rpm
C -- 2075 rpm
E -- 1654 rpm
F -- 1611 rpm
G -- 1397 rpm
H -- 1397 rpm
K -- 1211 rpm
L -- 1654 rpm3rd Digit (Clutch Assembly)
3 -- Poppet Valve
7 -- Poppet Valve
9 -- Poppet Valve
A -- Red (pre-96)
A -- Carbon (96-up)
B -- Static Open
G -- Carbon Fiber
H -- Red (pre-96)
H -- Carbon (96-97)
H -- Woven Graphite (98-up)
L -- Carbon Fiber
N -- Woven Graphite
P -- Woven Graphite4th Digit (Body Mounting)
C -- 3 round lugs, gas engine
D -- 3 round lugs, diesel engine
E -- 6 round lugs, gas or diesel
F -- 3 square pads, gas or diesel
G -- 3 square pads, gas or dieselIf there is no ID tag, there might be a number or letter stamped between the dimples of the impeller on the converter body.
4 -- 1211 stall
5 -- Medium or high stall (depends on stator)
6 -- 1397 stall
7 -- 1654 stall
C -- 2075 stall
H -- 1397 stall
K -- 1211 stall
L -- 1654 stall http://www.transmissioncenter.net/4L80E.htm

[406 Q-ship]

Thanks Larry for that info, I didn't get the converter cause it will be changed anyway.

Here is a link to an image of how they treated the sensor plugs....

[img=http://imageshack.us/thumbnmail.png] (http://img185.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00811jq2.jpg)

[ls427ss]

you should be able to get the connectors you need so you don't have to sweat them coming unplugged. PM me if you can't find what you need and I will see what I can do to help. Maybe the best thing is to take it back and start over? Good luck my friend... Larry

[406 Q-ship]

Larry I just noticed your location.....your about 15 minutes (if I go at 3:00 am it would be 5 mintues LOL) up the 405 from me. I'm in Torrance, I will get my connection at the dealer to look up the numbers for me, I'm sure if it is available through the GM parts I can come up with them.

I'm concerned with some of the things I'm reading about the early 4L80e's though, the solenoid valve sticking cause a over pressure condition which can lead to case failure. I have the ATSG service book coming, along with the GM manual reprints through ATSG.

[ls427ss]

Cause thats the only way you would make it to me in 15 minutes... I'm not in the OJ Brentwood, I am in the East Bay San Francisco Brentwood...lol

And you are right about problems with these trannys... there is NO way I would try a junkyard unit or anything close... The web site I told you about above has a boat load of special upgrade parts to make the 4L80E live, and this other place Eat My Shift (http://www.eatmyshift.com) builds upgraded units, includes a torque converter, and shipping both ways for $1892.00. The 2 way shipping is because they want you to send back a core, and if you do not have one add $850. I believe the other place I mentioned sells a non electric 4L80E manual shift for a tad over $3000, and a stage 2 with electrics and no core needed for $2800.00. Examine your options carefully, as it won't take you long to get to $3000 using a POS, removing it 3 or 4 times to fix problems, down time, fluid, etc. Eat my shift provides a 12 Month / Unlimited Mile Nation Wide Warranty with theire, or an option for a 3 year 75,000 mile extended warranty if you wish. Do your homework before you spend a cent... it always pays off in the long run. Good luck on your venture, and please post your decision and results if you would be so kind.. Maybe the one you got cheap would save you $$ on the core charge if you sent it in for the core? Just a thought....Take Care Larry