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    Results 1 to 6 of 6
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Aug 2006
      Location
      Hampton Roads, VA
      Posts
      678
      Country Flag: United States

      The TA is a rattle trap!

      I love 2nd gens but every one I've had rattles and squeaks like it's going to fall apart.
      It seems like the TA is even worse now that I've stiffened up the chassis and suspension somewhat.
      So now I have a 25 year old body sitting atop a crapload of nice new parts.
      I want to start addressing some of these problems...don't have the time or resources right now to tear all the body panels off and have everything redone, but I would like to start a little at a time.
      Can any of you 2nd gen guys give me some ideas on where to start, and what to replace, I imagine the freakin' 100lb doors would be a good place to start..?

      Anyway it's driving me nucking futs.

      Paul

      1980 Pontiac Trans Am, Chevy Big Block 468, TKO 600 Trans, Hotchkis TVS, Bilsteins, Eaton/Motive 3:73's, 18" Coddington Junkyard Dogs, Nitto NT555 rubber, Autometers http://www.fquick.com/Bandit
      http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2458763


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Jun 2002
      Location
      Benicia, CA
      Posts
      1,433
      Country Flag: United States

      Takes time...

      I had to find each rattle and insulate it somehow, or else remove the part(s) that were making noise. I tightened everything up under the dash, under the car, in the doors, etc. Then I tried using tape and other materials to quiet each rattle down until I was down to <5. The worst was my stereo, masked rattles until parts were ready to fall apart, had to toss the stereo and spend 2 hours once a month putting a wrench on nearly every bolt/nut under the car. That's what I get for having a stiff suspension. Good luck,
      Jeff
      1971 RS Camaro: PAINKILLER

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Ontario, Canada
      Posts
      2,314
      Country Flag: Canada
      Do you have a squeak coming from the upper dash? Does it go away when it rains or you wash the car?
      My '75 drove me nuts! About six months after I sold it I found out what the problem was. Hood bumper in the middle of the cowl. Grease it. Squeak is gone.
      Ken
      If there is a hard way to do something, I'll find it!
      My other car is a Vega.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Aug 2006
      Location
      Hampton Roads, VA
      Posts
      678
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Kenova
      Do you have a squeak coming from the upper dash? Does it go away when it rains or you wash the car?
      My '75 drove me nuts! About six months after I sold it I found out what the problem was. Hood bumper in the middle of the cowl. Grease it. Squeak is gone.
      Ken
      Holy shiite, this could be one of the best pieces of intel I have heard in a while!! It squeeks there like a mouse getting stepped on by a moose!! I thought it was inside the dash but what you're saying makes sense.

      Soon as I get home I am grabbing the grease gun and popping the hood!

      Paul
      1980 Pontiac Trans Am, Chevy Big Block 468, TKO 600 Trans, Hotchkis TVS, Bilsteins, Eaton/Motive 3:73's, 18" Coddington Junkyard Dogs, Nitto NT555 rubber, Autometers http://www.fquick.com/Bandit
      http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2458763

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Location
      McKinney, TX
      Posts
      1,623
      Country Flag: United States
      I think the problem lies in the car's name tag... I kid I kid. You can try masking off the wiring harness/essentials and spraying everything down with rubberized coating (lizard skin, duplicolor underbody spray, etc...) Also, Rockford Fosgate has some sprayable coating that works REALLY good but is pricey.
      66 Mustang "Project: Ballin on a budget"
      89 Mustang "Box Wine"

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Montgomery, IL
      Posts
      359
      Country Flag: United States
      I would start with the structural stuff first. GW makes excellent subrame connectors and Pro-Touring F Body makes subframe to cowl braces. If a roll bar is in your future, now is the time. Drop the frame and replace the bushings. I prefer solid and then take binding out of the suspension with GW control arm bushings. Make sure all of the bolts are in the fenderwells, front sheet metal, etc and properly torqued. Nothing can be loose.

      After all of that, start insulating as mentioned above. Several products out there to do this. You'll also need to replace your weatherstriping and the felt on the baces that hold your door glass when the windows are down.
      71 Formula, 455 SD/KRE D-Ports, Crower solid cam, TKO 600, 3:73 Eaton posi. 17" ARE 200s, , 1LE brakes, Koni, Rancho adjustable bars, Hotchkis springs




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