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    Results 1 to 7 of 7
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Mar 2006
      Location
      So cal
      Posts
      249

      Clear coat lifting, Body experts please chime in

      I have a couple spots on my Nova that the clear coat is lifting, alot of body shops say no way can it be fixed without repainting the whole car.

      I have also been told I didnt take it to the right place,it can actually be recleared? so is this true?

      Here's the story, it was painted about 17 years ago and since that paint job the car has only had about 6000 miles on it.
      it sat in a garage for literally 13 years (plenty of cure time!)

      So what is the real story about this clear coat thing can it be done and make it look better for now or is this a no no? what I am looking to do is put a cowl indcution hood on it paint that and fix the couple spots were the clear is lifting, reshoot it and call it good for a few years,the rest of the paint job is in really good shape.

      any body guy's want to offer some tips?

      Thanks, NOVA

      72 Nova


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Aug 2003
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      8,745
      If it is 17 years old, that puts the job in the late 80s early 90s, which was a HORRIBLE period in the P and B business. Base clears were new, and NONE of them were worth a sheot! This thing could even have laquer cleared with urethane, Which is the worst. Long stoyr short, if it is peeling, it will have to be sanded of blown off. You will be amazed what can be done with a blow gun and a razor blade. You can run a razor accross a piece of glass and use the blade with the edge side you ran over the glass down, and not goudge the surface much. I would try to razor and air strip it first to the base, then try to block the base off. This would limit digging into the old bodywork that sounds like it is ok.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Mar 2006
      Location
      So cal
      Posts
      249
      I wish you were closer! sounds like you've done this once or twice! yes outside of a couple little garage dings the paint is really in good shape and as I said I really dont want to pay for a new P/J right now!
      Are you thinking the whole car should be done or just the quarter panel that the peeling is happening? do you think I would find any shops out here on the west coast that would do this? I have no garage that I can work in only for parking the car!

      Thanks for the advice prodigyCustoms and please keep them coming!

      Quote Originally Posted by ProdigyCustoms
      If it is 17 years old, that puts the job in the late 80s early 90s, which was a HORRIBLE period in the P and B business. Base clears were new, and NONE of them were worth a sheot! This thing could even have laquer cleared with urethane, Which is the worst. Long stoyr short, if it is peeling, it will have to be sanded of blown off. You will be amazed what can be done with a blow gun and a razor blade. You can run a razor accross a piece of glass and use the blade with the edge side you ran over the glass down, and not goudge the surface much. I would try to razor and air strip it first to the base, then try to block the base off. This would limit digging into the old bodywork that sounds like it is ok.
      72 Nova

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Harriman, Tennessee
      Posts
      1,310
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by ProdigyCustoms
      If it is 17 years old, that puts the job in the late 80s early 90s, which was a HORRIBLE period in the P and B business. Base clears were new, and NONE of them were worth a sheot! This thing could even have laquer cleared with urethane, Which is the worst. Long stoyr short, if it is peeling, it will have to be sanded of blown off. You will be amazed what can be done with a blow gun and a razor blade. You can run a razor accross a piece of glass and use the blade with the edge side you ran over the glass down, and not goudge the surface much. I would try to razor and air strip it first to the base, then try to block the base off. This would limit digging into the old bodywork that sounds like it is ok.
      Hey, I have one of those laquer/urethane cars to repaint, although the clear is not lifting anywhere on the car. It's lasted quite well, but the rust devil has reared its ugly head.

      Anyway, if the clear hs lifted, probably due to waiting too much time between base and clear, there is nothing you can do bu strip the clear off, sand, and repaint. The razor blade trick works quite well!

      Shiny Side Up!
      Bill
      '72 442 "Inamorata"
      "You can never go home again, Oatman...


      But I guess you can shop there."

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Greenville, IL
      Posts
      262
      Country Flag: United States
      I agree, you will be better off stripping old base/clear and repainting. Like Prodigy said, it is probably lacquer base w/ some of the very first urthane clear!!! Plus I think you will be money ahead to strip and paint. If the clear has started lifting in one spot, what's going to stop it from doing it elsewhere? Also, if you clear over existing material and then it starts lifting you will be ready to kill yourself for not stripping and repainting.

      Just my .02,
      Joe

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Mar 2006
      Location
      So cal
      Posts
      249
      Thanks for the feedback guy's!

      NOVA
      72 Nova

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      Dayton, Ohio
      Posts
      368
      Actually, I had a 1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula 350 that I bought new. It lifted in 3 years, the dealership repainted it. Then a few years later it lifted again. It was one of the first factory cars with a base and clear. My advice is to do a strip and repaint with a quality base and clear coat.


      Jeff

      http://www.kodakgallery.com/67rscamaro




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