Floorpan and trunk coating - preferences?

[BA.]

I'm getting to a point where I need to prep and put a coating on my floor pans and trunk area.
I've been reading for hours but found more about sound deadening than an 'prep and coat'.


My friend thinks I should use RustBullet, and of course there is POR-15,......or I could do nothing more than prime and spray paint!
I'm really not sure whether LineX (or similar) is a good option for covering the INSIDE of our floors and trunks.


Any advice? Can I just scuff-sand these floors before covering with some product? There will be some kind of heat and sound deadener as well when I'm all done. (Dynamat Extreme or LizardSkin or Thermotec)


Thanks!

[Brian-Blade]

I did mine last weekend in Lizard Skin (prior to that I cleaned & painted with POR15) ,bought supplies from Summit & sprayed it on .I am very happy .I had it sitting outside on Sat. & I layed my hand on the top side of the roof & you could barely hold your hand there do to heat & then held my hand on inside & there was a major difference. With buying the gun & & 4 gals of product I have about $550
that cover firewall, floors ,trunk. inside doors & quaters & inside of roof

Picshttp://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/brian1..._leKEBRVfXafGR

[Rick Dorion]

I did POR15 but it doesn't work as well on new metal even when prepped as they say. Having done that I would now use Rust Bullet of Eastwood Encapsulator with a satin black overcoat. Since I don't have spray equipment I use their rattle cans.

[BA.]

I forgot to mention CORROLESS - available at Eastwood.
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT

I've used it in small doses and it did contain the rust, but the car wasn't sitting in elements either.

EDIT: Oops! My bad, Thanks Rick! Corroless = Rust Encapsulator
I've used it back in the day when it was known as Corroless. I like the stuff.

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[Rick Dorion]

Yup. The corroless is now the encapsulator. Good stuff.

[BA.]

Figured I'd post for others' future reference.

I've been reading the Net for hours, I'm sure I've only touched the tip of the proverbial iceberg.

Sounds like a lot of these products actually have different strengths. For my use on the interior of floorpans and trunk I think I'll be happy with either Rust Bullet or the Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. (ok, maybe ZeroRust would be fine too, I'm tired of reading)

Since it's the interior pans, I think I'm going with the RE. If I use Lizard Skin or something, I doubt I'd need to top-coat the RE.
I would probably use RB and a top-coat for certain exterior parts for pure protection, and POR15 on something that needed to look decent at the same time.

I'm getting the feeling from the reading around that many troubles (perhaps not all) of POR or RB or RE peeling were due to the base metal not having enough bite on it. Gotta have something for the product to stick to!

I think I'm going to use RB on half of my 8x5 flat trailer, and RE on the other half! That thing does nothing but sit outside! :-D

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Any other tips, thoughts or idea's, feel free to post up.

[Rick Dorion]

You're correct about the need for some bite for POR15 to adhere. Even though I anally prepped my new floors underneath, I had some small peeling when I removed the tranny crossmember. No going back! I put rust bullet under the rear of my car and topcoated with Rustoleum 7777. It's held well for 2 years. Eastwood's site has a good article comparing POR15 and encapsulator by one of their contributing body guys.

[BA.]

FWIW - I put DOT4 brake fluid on some old Corroless/Rust Encapsulator that I put around the windshield channel and let it sit for a good 30 minutes. I don't think it did a damn thing! No peeling or anything.

[BRIAN]

Don't waste your money on the POR especially if they are new panels and on the interior side. If no access to spray equipment just get some Rustoleum and then apply your sound deadening material either sprayed or pads.


The words "Miracle" and "Paint" should never be used in the same sentence let alone applied to your car.