Front suspension w/frame notch pics

[Whistler]

Here's some shots of the stock subframe on my car with a notch in the rear to clear 265/35/18s on a 18x8.5 wheel with 5.5 BS.
It doesn't take much really, about 5/8 inch at the widest part. I went a little deeper than needed in case I go to 275s later.

[vince72]

looks great!! keep up the good work
vince

[TitoJones]

Looking good there. Do you have any in progress shots so people can see where you cut, and how it was done?

Tyler

[bretcopsey]

I'd like to see/hear more about how you accomplished this especially on the driver side since the area where the steering box attaches is already more narrow than the surrouding area, and the mounting points are reinforced with tubing internally.

Are you running stock type steering or a rack? Also, was it not necessary to notch the front frame horn area as well?

[Steve68]

Chris, why did you have to notch the frame??

[Whistler]

Nah... I didn't take any how-to pics. I figure for something this simple-if you have to ask... you probably shouldn't be hacking on your frame. :)

The front area didn't touch, just the back. I'm running a steering box still. The place where the notch started was just behing the steering box bolts.

Steve- The tires hit the frame because they're too wide.

[BRIAN]

One more reason that not to buy a new subframe.

[Damn True]

Looks like you did a nice job. However I think I'd prefer to just limit my steering travel a bit.

[Whistler]

Thanks! I did this a while ago, but a few people were asking about it. It only took about 2 hours start to finish.

[Steve68]

Oh I didn't know you had a problem,

[justforfun]

Headers go up & that looks like a oil return for turbo/s in the LS1 oil pan. Do you have any pics of the turbo setup?

[ill steez]

i was wondering about this myself, and im definently glad to see that its been done and that it looks easy. big thumbs up to you.

[dgoetz]

You shouldn't have any problems with 265's in the frt with 5.5" back set and 8.5 rims. I run 275/40X17 w/9.5" wide, with the same back set, for street and 295/35X17 for autocross and the 295's only slightly rub the frt part of the top tubular A arm. Are you running narrowed arm arms? Is it the 18" rims? Mine is a 68 but i don't think that makes a difference

[MrQuick]

You shouldn't have any problems with 265's in the frt with 5.5" back set and 8.5 rims. I run 275/40X17 w/9.5" wide, with the same back set, for street and 295/35X17 for autocross and the 295's only slightly rub the frt part of the top tubular A arm. Are you running narrowed arm arms? Is it the 18" rims? Mine is a 68 but i don't think that makes a difference

Really? what back space are you running. Stock frame?

[dgoetz]

I am running the same back set 5.5', thats what most run. i have 1/8 and 1/4 spacers to adjust each whl if i need to move the whl out but 5.5 works well for me. you need to measure your frt stance width, from the left face of disc where the whl mounts to the right side. I don't remember what the mesurement should be but some out there does or i can look it up. The other problem with the wider tires is out side clearance with the whl wells, I had mine modifed (rolled) to allow more clearance but it sounds like your 265's are well within the whl wells if they were hitting the frame. The pics show how close mine are to the fenders but they clear. I do run neg camber and my frt susp is a neg roll (gains neg camber as it travels down so i gain clearance) but its only a problem with the 295 hoosier slicks.

[Lance-W]

You shouldn't have any problems with 265's in the frt with 5.5" back set and 8.5 rims. I run 275/40X17 w/9.5" wide, with the same back set, for street and 295/35X17 for autocross and the 295's only slightly rub the frt part of the top tubular A arm. Are you running narrowed arm arms? Is it the 18" rims? Mine is a 68 but i don't think that makes a difference

Which upper tubular arm are you running?

Thanks, Lance

[Leadfoot1]

Dgoetz,

Any side shot of the car available?

Makes for a nice patch, but your car looks like its rolling high no!?

I have heard about short A-arms but can't remember what was the bad part about their action... It affected the curve somehow. It would pull the tire/wheel in, but at what cost!

Lead.

[dgoetz]

Dgoetz,

Any side shot of the car available?

Makes for a nice patch, but your car looks like its rolling high no!?

I have heard about short A-arms but can't remember what was the bad part about their action... It affected the curve somehow. It would pull the tire/wheel in, but at what cost!

Lead.
Rolling High? like the frt is higher than the back or the car is sitting too high? I have lowered the car asmasp, i even mounted the Air Ride tech 4 link 2' higher on the car than they recommended, above the frame so i had to install a DSE shock cover in the trunk. I don't run a rake (back higher than frt) because i want the car as low as possilbe for handling. i run Qa1 coil over's all around so i can change the ride height any where. The car is cross weighted to with in 1%.
Short A-arms do change the curve and you have to run less back set so you gain nothing. The only thing i know that the short a-arms are good for if you want the center of your wheel to look deeper like in a reversed rim style, which I did om the back of the car with a nerrowed axle but i did it to save unsprung weight.

[MrQuick]

Looks good dg, is that Buttonwillow?

I needed to notch my frame running 17 x 9 1/2" and a 6 1/2" back space. I like to get it a little lower with no rubbing at all.

[Leadfoot1]

Rolling High? like the frt is higher than the back or the car is sitting too high? I have lowered the car asmasp, i even mounted the Air Ride tech 4 link 2' higher on the car than they recommended, above the frame so i had to install a DSE shock cover in the trunk. I don't run a rake (back higher than frt) because i want the car as low as possilbe for handling. i run Qa1 coil over's all around so i can change the ride height any where. The car is cross weighted to with in 1%.
Short A-arms do change the curve and you have to run less back set so you gain nothing. The only thing i know that the short a-arms are good for if you want the center of your wheel to look deeper like in a reversed rim style, which I did om the back of the car with a nerrowed axle but i did it to save unsprung weight.


Yeah, it looked high from the other pic, thats why i asked to see it from the side. It looks a whole lot different in those last pics but the front tires look like they are at the maximum before protruding out from the fender no. (?) So if you wanted to drop it, could you?

I like the top of the rim to be matching up at the fender lip (tire in the wheelhouse).

Thanks!

Lead.

Also, you run air right? How you like it?

[dgoetz]

I have already lowered the car as much as possilbe. I would have exh and oil pan issues . I even had the fender wells raised 1 & 1/4 " to alow the car to be lowered more. They followed the org factory whl lip so most people don't notice it. I wanted to keep it as stock looking as possible.
I used Air Ride Tech rear 4-link but not the air shocks, I uysed Qa's w/coil overs.

[Leadfoot1]

HAHA!!!

You know, i had noticed that! (but its nicely done so i was not 100% sure...)

I'M glad to see you running the air bar.

'Guess i won't have any tire clearance issues in the front no more...I sold all my parts to build a PT car last night Except the airbar!

Lead.
(Going back to Pro-Street).