LowBuckX now has C6 front rotors...

[LowBuckX]

Just put some 2005 Vette 12.8 x 1.26 rotors up front with some 1972 1/2 ton calipers.
The brackets where fun to mod but worked out perfect.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
I made a 3/8 bracket that mounted to spindle and locates old bracket off that







https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

[LowBuckX]

Lots of room in my rim but these rims are made for newer Suburban and Tahoes
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif
What do you think.

Ive seen the pbdcbb and Mr Pozzis CBB and sorta combined then
the pbd-cbb is stock calipers with c4 13 x 1.1 rotors or the 12x1.25 c4 rotors with the 72 calipers.
If you care and want something clarified for you just ask.

Just for your fast referance Rotors are $30 each Calipers are $16 each At Napa (used stock calipers as cores) Bolts from McMaster carr $6 So that is $98 for my front brakes

Rear Discs set up was $260 (with master)

[69Nova]

Dam thats cool. And so cheap.

[barno68]

I remember when you were asking about options... this looks like a good setup. The brackets and spacers pushed out your rotors a good distance, but that makes the fitment of the late model rims easier I suppose. Never would have thought about the truck calipers; good find!

I thought I got away cheap on my LS1 setup ($200ish), but you did much better. I tell you, cutting down the original disks for hubs saves a bundle.

[Steve1968LS2]

Very cool.. would love to do a story on a low buck high-performance brake upgrade like that..

Good work!

[LowBuckX]

Thanks ..The combo of parts where mish mashed together from info I got from PDQ67 team Camaro, team Chevelle and other sites including alot of reading of old posts here at pt.com. But those set ups mostly all use the c4/c3 rotors but the 13"HD c4 rotors are $62 each. At $27 for the c5/c6 It just was a budget choice.

I made a cardboard mock-up of the rotor (total height, thickness,diameter and caliper dimentions added) before I had my local NAPA order them.
I also liked the curved fins in the C6 stock rotor Should stay fairly cool.

[barno68]

What did you end up going with for the rear?

[LowBuckX]

1980 TA rotors, 1980 Malibu calipers and soft hoses mounted on the Steeltech (ebay doug100) brackets.

[vintageracer]

Another upgrade for this setup is to look for Wilwood aluminum racing calipers in the single piston configuration that will replace the 1/2 ton iron single piston calipers used in this upgrade. This is a bolt on caliper that is typically used by the local crash em stock car guys running big Impalas etc. These calipers have a BUNCH of clamping power just like the iron calipers you are using. The Wilwoods save a bunch of unsprung weight.

I have a new set and they are VERY light! Only drawback is that they are expensive new however a little looking should get a used pair cheap!

[Boyd]

Now that is an awesome "maximum bang-for minimum buck" upgrade. You don't happen to have any pics of the modified bracket before you installed the rotors, do you? I'm anxious to see how you modified your original bracket, and how (if at all) I can do the same on my late second gen spindles. I wonder if the G30 Van calipers that second genners use to allow a 12" 1LE rotor upgrade are the same as the '72 truck calipers?

[Boyd]

I did a search, the G30 Van calipers are not the same as the 1/2 ton truck calipers. I was hoping they were because the 1-ton van calipers will bolt directly to a late second gen spindle with no mods. The largest rotor I've seen used with the Van calipers is the 3rd gen 12" 1LE rotors. I wonder if the Van calipers can fit the 12.8" C6 rotor? And why can the 1/2 ton truck calipers accept such a large rotor? Oh well, if it works, it works. Kudos to LowBuckX for "engineering" it. Got any pics of the bracket?

[EastCoast]

Boyd

I'm pretty sure that second gen spindles bring a whole different set of issues when trying to do this. The brake caliper bracket is cast as part of the spindle and not bolt on like our first gens. Right? I'm guessing you could cut the cast arms off and fab something, but I'm not sure.

Not sure what the difference between van and truck calipers are but the truck caliper is used to handle the thickness of the rotor not the diameter. The calipers are not deep enough to use the entire surface of the rotor. I'm using truck calipers meant for a 1.25" think rotor. The C4-HD rotor is 1.1" thick. I used an old brake pad plate as a shim to narrow the opening. As you can see, there is 1/4 - 3/8 of an inch on the inside of the rotor that my pads are not touching.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif


I made a completly custom bracket tyo hold the caliper, where ProTour72 made a bracket to move the original bracket outward. I really like this idea!


Robb

[barno68]

The second gen spindle is an easy modification. Just cut off the ears and make an adapter bracket. Many people drill out the dust cover holes and retap for mounting the bracket. This is the same mod necessary to run Wilwood kits (except the direct bolt on GM-III's) or to use a C-5 conversion, nothing complicated.

Brent

[Boyd]

Thanks EastCoast. Being a second gen guy, I didn't know the caliper bracket on a first gen was a seperate piece. If the truck caliper is used only for the width it allows, then I should be able to use a 1 ton van caliper. That is the reason second genners use it, it bolts to our spindle, it allows the use of a 3rd gen 12" 1LE rotor and D61 HD Police pads from a Caprice. The thickness of the package (I believe) is 1.125", so in theory- the 12.8" C6 rotor should work.

**Edit, the package will not work. I didn't take in to account the obvious increase in diameter (duh) that requires the caliper to be moved further "away" from the spindle.

[barno68]

Boyd,

Maybe I am missing something, but... the larger rotor interfers with the cast caliper mounting ears on the spindle, how is the van caliper then a bolt on? I did the LS1 conversion and that is the first thing I noted when mocking up the 12" rotors. I can not think of a way to mount larger rotors without cutting these ears off. How have you seen it done?

Brent

[EastCoast]

Boyd

Sounds like you answered your own question... in this case, the increased diameter of the rotor is your issue. Moving the caliper outward is where the fabrication comes in. That likely opens up your choices of calipers since the brackets (i.e. mounting points) will be new anyway.

It has been raining here for... well.... a f&%#*n long time. :crying: I will get some completed pics (if you're interested) once I can get the car out and clean it up.

Robb

[Boyd]

Brent, you are correct. The van caliper does not allow a 12" rotor on a second gen spindle, but will bolt to a B-body 12" brake spindle. I oversimplified it because except for the mounting ears allowing a 12" rotor ( I know, that's THE critical difference :pat: ) , and some that have a different LBJ diameter, the B-body spindle is virtually identical to a late second gen spindle. This is a great lowbuck upgrade for the first gens, (LowBuckX needs to look into producing the brackets he made for this swap) but it will not work for second gens. I just saw the C6 rotors for less than a Benjamin and got too damn excited.

Robb, I'd like to see pics when you can get them.

[LowBuckX]

took it for a long ride today and the diferance is night and day. Stops 100% better. Im happy

[vintageracer]

Did you originallly start with drum brake Nova spindles or disc Nova brake spindles when you began this conversion?

[LowBuckX]

Sorry for the long wait for the answer. I started with factory discs

[EastCoast]

LowBuckX

How's your pedal height? I thought mine was OK (little lower then before due to the size of the rear caliper) but once I drove it I realized that I had a residual pressure problem.

The pin in the booster and the hole in the master measure exactly the same length but I think the pin should be slightly shorter.... Now I have a washer behind the MC on each stud and the residual problem is fixed, but the pedal is too low for comfort. There's brakes down there, but it just isn't a confident feel that close to the floor. I was wondering how you were making out?

Thanks
Robb

[vintageracer]

Thanks,

That means a shorter spacer may/would be needed if starting with drum brake spindles.

Will you be making any additional brake brakets for this conversion?

[LowBuckX]

brake feel is the same as with the disc/drum as for pedal feel and height. Very comfy to drive but the braking responce is more possitive and linear. And more progressive.
I also had a residual problem but 2 2# residual valves fixed it.


I have no plans on making anymore brakets.

[EastCoast]

LowBuckX

I think we have our wires crossed but I am extremely interested in your set up.

I had a residual pressure problem. Meaning that the pin in the booster was slightly too long and causing some brake pressure to be held after each pump of the brakes. Driving a few miles produced huge amounts of drag/heat. I've resolved this.

My second problem has been pedal height. (Due to the rather large rear calipers). I currently have a single 2 lb residual valve (holds 2lbs of pressure) in the main rear line just under the master cylinder. Are you running a 2 lb valve after the tee on the rear (one on each side)? If you jack the rear immediately after driving the car is there any drag?

Here's what you've got me thinking.... The rear calipers are a 'low drag' design that slightly retract from the rotor. Even when I was having my residual pressure problem, the fronts were virtually ceased yet the rears were not nearly as bad. I'm wondering if the calipers (both of them together) are stronger retracting than the 2 lb valve? If you have a much better pedal, is it because each caliper has it's own 2 lb residual valve?

I know I'm kinda rambling, but I'd appreciate your help.

Anyone care to chime in on this??

Thanks
Robb

[LowBuckX]

Did you go for the 1 1/8 master? I understand now what you are saying about residual pressure. I have 1 check valve in the front line and one in the rear. I think the front was unnessiary but it is there.
I dont think the rear has to much drag. I checked for exessive heat after a drive and front and rear seemed about the same. I have the check valve plumbed after the adjustable prop valve which is almost open all the way now.
I also have a power booster which is operating well. The rear pads Im running are the cheapest value pads I could find these where recomended on anothe site for a reason that escapes me right now.

Have you put many miles on yours? Mine went from OK to great after about 35 minutes of city driving. After so called (bed in) they realy came alive.

[EastCoast]

I do have the 1 1/8 MC.

I have plenty of brakes once I get the pedal down there, the pedal height became a concern once I spaced out the MC to prevent residual pressure. I think I will find some thinner spacers or actually start to grind a little of the pin to try and find that sweet spot where there's no residual pressure, yet no excess slack.:dunno:

I will get it right. It's nice to know that others are having some success and you're not the only person trying to make a combo like this work.

Thanks again
Robb

[LowBuckX]

No prob. I was also having lots of problrms mostly with bleeding the rear.

[540' chevelle]

LOWBUCKX what did you use for a hub?

[LowBuckX]

I used a lathe to turn down my stock rotor into a hub. pretty easy .

[540' chevelle]

What is the "Joe " of that rotor? Would a stock drum hub reduce the size of the spacers? Are the Nova spindle and Chevelle spindle the same?
Thanks looks great.

[LowBuckX]

I think some of the early Chevelle spindles are the same. dont know the MoJOe of the rotor.

[DAK]

I've watching this thread for awhile. Nice setup LowBuck!!! Just a heads up on a cheap caliper upgrade. Front calipers from a 1980 4x4 3/4 GM PU with 8400lb GVW. These calipers are meant for a 1.25in rotor and the pistons are 3.025in vs 2.825 of the regular D52 caliper. One problem I can think of is brake hose mounting angle but that nothing alittle grinding wouldn't fix.;)



http://www.cardomain.com/ride/1381227