Do I need a booster with the Wilwood set up?

[LoPro67]

I have new Wilwood discs on all four corners and just picked up a really nice Wilwood polished master cylinder. Do I need the brake booster or can I get away with just using the M/C.

[67SSDan]

Just checked out the car, that thing is hot! I can't wait to see more pictures of that intake and some performance numbers.

Good luck in your last month over there in Iraq man! Thanks for serving your country!

[Camaro_Kyle]

Sorry, I can't help ya, but I just looked at your pics as well, and that is a bitchin' car! The paint scheme is downright awesome! We need more pics.
And another thanks for serving your country!
Kyle

[VictorT]

I have new Wilwood discs on all four corners and just picked up a really nice Wilwood polished master cylinder. Do I need the brake booster or can I get away with just using the M/C.
Hi,

Well do have a bit of input... First is I have to agree with the other two post, that car is so sweet. Im a bit jealous :crying: As for your question, well it depends on what size the master cyl bore is. Generally if you have a 1inch bore, you can run manual, if it is 1 1/8 then you should consider a booster. Let me know if you have any questions, and I will be happy to help

[2Slow4U]

I'm running the 12.19" rotors with the 4 piston caliper on the corners no problem. (Manual-1"bore master)

Big improvement from 4 drums.

[6'9"Witha69]

I'm running the 12.19" rotors with the 4 piston caliper on the corners no problem. (Manual-1"bore master)

Big improvement from 4 drums.I have the same and it is great. A little hard pedal, but definitely easy to modulate.

[LoPro67]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

This is the master cylinder (polished) I was talking about. It is the 1 inch version. I didn't know the difference between this and the 1.18 so I opted for this one.

[LoPro67]

Does any one have any input on proportioning valves for street strip cars? Is it needed or not? Knob or lever?

[2Slow4U]

IMO, your going to need it. I have the knob. I knew one guy that had the same setup(on a 67 Camaro) and didn't think he needed the prop valve. Every time it rained or he braked hard he locked up the rear end.

I think to get the most out of the setup you need it.

[2Slow4U]

BTW-He's the reason I got mine. Along with a few other people getting the same results without them.

[Madspeed]

Yikes
You must use some kind of rear brake pressure adjustment valve in the rear on a custom brake setup
My knowladge from brakes comes from GM factory training
and You DO NOT Want the rear brakes locking before the front or the car will want to come around on u (very dangerouse)
Go get a willwood adjustable brake valve , remove anny proportioning valve and run the adjustable valve in the rear brakes

go somewhere SAFE and do some hard stop tests tune the rear brake in untill they just start to skid b4 the fronts the back off untill they dont ( BE VERY CAREFULL TESTING) so nobody gets hurt
after your satisfied I would make shure to tets again in a wet situation untill your optimal braking witout rear lockup is obtained.

GL Ken F Pm me if you need further info