Blasting car - what primer and how?

[Stangonline.com]

I am going to have my 67 fastback blasted (I believe he uses walnut shells?) - then immediately primed. What is the correct way to do this and what primer should I use? It's going to be a long project, so I need to seal it up really well from the get-go.

Thanks
Jeff

[Stangonline.com]

I guess an important thing to know is - After the car is blasted and primed, it will be in the fabrication stage for at least 3 years before it actually gets paint. Im guessing that the timeframe that it will be without paint might change your recommendations..

[CAMAROBOY69]

Since I can never afford to finish my cars I primer them all in epoxy primer. Even over bare metal I have never had a single problem. Rain, cold, hot, anything I have been very impressed with epoxy primer.
Please post some pics of your car!!! 67 Fastback is my dream muscle car!

[novanutcase]

Camaroboy.....I am in the same stage as Stang is with a '66 Nova project. I have the car almost all stripped(Wanted to see what was under there) and will need to primer it for now. To E-prime it, will I need a body shop to do this or can this be done in my garage? I don't have a compressor or paint gun but for $169.00 at the home depot they have a small compressor that includes among other things a spray gun. Should I buy this and forgo the cost of the body shop? Can I get Epoxy primer at any automotive paint store? Do I need a special sprayer to spray E-primer or can I use a normal one? Also, how hard will it be for the body shop, once they do get to working on my car, to remove the e-primer?

[CAMAROBOY69]

First off your very smart for stripping all the stuff of the car. I do that with almost every car I buy just because you never know whats under there. Usually coat hangers for wheel wells and newspaper to fill holes. Seen it a thousand times.
My gallon of epoxy primer is usually around $70.00 and thats enough to do several cars with a couple coats.
As for the compressor you really dont need anything spectacular since its just primer. I have a very crappy gun that I have been using. You can even rent an air compressor for the day. You might even be able to rent a paint gun. It just sprays on a little thicker with more orange peel effect when you have a crappy gun or bigger tip.
I believe the mixture is 2:1. Mix, stir, spray. Very easy.

[r.friborg]

Since I can never afford to finish my cars I primer them all in epoxy primer. Even over bare metal I have never had a single problem. Rain, cold, hot, anything I have been very impressed with epoxy primer.
Please post some pics of your car!!! 67 Fastback is my dream muscle car!

I am using epoxy primer and it is the best it becomes wery durrable(pardon my spelling).

Here in sweden when I buy epoxy I go to one of the companies in my citie that blast and paints big constuctions like bridges and rail road cars , and there I can buy it rely cheap. I bougt 10 Liters of epoxy with hardener and thiner for 131$. Hunt for a god prices it saves.

R.F

[Stangonline.com]

So, you can simply blast it, then prime it right away, without doing anything additional to the metal?

[CAMAROBOY69]

I would tach it off or use some kind of cleaner to remove any dust or residue.

[novanutcase]

So your suggestion is to tack it and do whatever mechanical mods your going to do and do the body last? I think for my project it would be best to do this although my only concern is how hard it would be for the body shop to sand off the primer to do the body work. Is it a major PITA for them?(Don't need to make it any harder than it already is going to be!)

[fladoans]

As Camaroboy69 suggested blast and prime with the expoxy right away. I am doing my 69 in peices starting at the front and working back. I do a section, blast, weld and then expoxy right away. I lot of people recommend doing the bondo work over the expoxy. So after I srpay the expoxy and the next dat I rough it up with a scrotch brite pad before the expoxy gets too hard. I will go back later and do the filler work once all the welding is completed.

I use Dupont paint and I just bought a gallon of chromate expoxy DTM primer yesterday. The expoxy alone, no hardner or reducer the gallon was 141.95, part number 2580CR. This is some nasty stuff, so if you do spray it have the proper safety equipment. But, whatever you do expoxy is the way to go and will last a long time.

[astroracer]

Whether you are doing body work or not, BEFORE you shoot the epoxy, wipe the entire car down with a good wax and grease remover. Duponts' Prep-Sol is one I use. I also use Scott's Blue "shop towel" brand paper towels. Basically lint free and they are cheap.
It's just good insurance to get the car as clean as you can before laying down the primer. And don't touch the bare steel with your hands.
Mark

[The Rook]

Warning! Warning! Threadjack in progress!!!! Seems how all you Michigander's are being so helpful . . . is there anywhere in Michigan that does chemical dipping and sealing??? Or should I just stick with blasting?

[DRJDVM's '69]

The debate I've been researching is epoxy primer vs self etching primer.... pro and con.....

It seems to be dependent on who you talk to...

[JMarsa]

Try this thread: https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9564

--JMarsa