68 Camaro LS1 rear swap

[Midnight68]

I have looked through all the old post I could find and I still cant figure out if I need 2 right side mounting plates along with 2 right side calipers or just 2 right side mounting plates with a right and left caliper. I know the LT1 setup needs 2 right side calipers and brackets. I just cant seem to figure out what I need for an LS1 setup.

[Norwoodx55]

I may have some useful info for you. I'm in the process of the LS1 swap on my 69. I haven't decided the best solution for me yet, but here are the problems I see. If you use 2 left side brackets and calipers, there will be problems hooking up the e-brake. They are set up to pull from the rear, so if you use a left side on the right side, it is effectively up-side down. For the e-brake to operate, it would have to be pulled from the front. I think you would have to make a shorter cable for this to work. I am trying to use the stock cables from the doner car(02 Camaro). Another option I read somewhere, is to reverse the e-brake actuating arm that mounts into the caliper bracket. Apparently the only drawback to doing this is you lose the automatic adjustment ability. I haven't looked into this option yet. If you choose to use the regular placement of the left and right side set up, there will be shock interference on the right side. You could relocate the shocks inside the frame rails like in a mini-tub set-up. I am leaning towards using the 2 left side bracket method, but still am not sure.

[importkiller69ss]

why 2 left brackets i thought it was right side...i have a 69 and was planning on the ls1 stuff

[Norwoodx55]

In stock form, the LS1 brakes have the caliper forward of the axle, LT1 is behind the axle. So you are correct in using 2 RH brackets for the LT, but you need 2 LH for the LS. I am by no means an authority on this, still trying to work it out myself.
Brett

[Midnight68]

What about moving the passenger shock behind the axle so that the brakes could function correctly. It seems like it would be an easier modification but how terrible would that be on the rear suspension and wheel hop? I am running hotchkis rear springs and the car only sees the track once or twice a summer.

[Norwoodx55]

I recently asked that question here, and most people didn't think it would be a good idea. Where in Colorado are you, I'm in Ft. Collins.
Brett

[barno68]

If it helps you out, the GM parts numbers for the RH caliper is 12455128 and for the e-brake backingplate (complete assembly) is 10444625. GMpartsdirect.com has each for around $65. Enjoy.
Brent

[importkiller69ss]

so for the ls1 swap on my 69 i will need 2 lh calipers and backing plates for the rear swap? correct...please corretc me if i am wrong i am about to buy the parts...i was thinking it was rh parts

[Norwoodx55]

Well, that is how it looks to me. I have a set of '02 LS1 brakes and a 69 Camaro. The LH side goes on no prob. because the caliper is to the front of the car and the shock is to the rear. The RH side is where I am having issues. The caliper AND shock are to the front of the axle, hence the interference problem. Unless there are differences in our cars or LS1 brakes, it looks as though you will need 2 LH assemblies unless you want to move your shocks. If you go this route(2 LH) be prepared to get creative with the E-brake hook-up. Damn shock interference is causing all the problems here.
Brett

[Midnight68]

I searched and found your old post about moving the shocks. I think I might still try that and if it doesnt work out I guess I will move on from there. I am in Lakewood. My little sister is up at CSU though. What master cylinder are you planning on using?

[Norwoodx55]

I have a Hydraboost system that I purchased before I planned my current brake swap plans(C4 front LS1 rear). Paul at Hydratech said to use a 68-76 Corvette master cylinder. He said the calipers were so well matched that only an adjustable rear proportioning valve would be needed. He thought that about 15% reduction in rear brake force would be a good starting point. He suggested using the 1 1/8" power brake MC with the Hydraboost. Without the H.B. you may need a smaller bore MC. there is a manual MC for the same application, I think it is a 15/16" bore. Something to consider if you are planning on moving your shocks inboard of the frame rails; the floor height is lower than the outside of the rails. So if you just move the shox over and reinforce the floor, you are loosing about 2" of shock travel. This might cause shock bottoming before suspension bottoming. With my Bilsteins, it looks like I would only have about 2" of compression travel. The alternative I see is to create a raised sectiion of floor to match the outboard floor/shock mounting height. I see it being fugly and complicated by the staggered shock arraingement. I am open to alternatives and ideas on this. Do you have any suggestions? The lower shock mounting would be easy for me with the Cal-Tracs. I can just swap the spring plates.
Brett

[EFI69Cam]

Brett,

Did you look at moving the lower part of the shock only? It wont take much.


Also for the others, I have edelbrock IAS shocks that mount upside down. There is much less interference with the shock this way.

[Norwoodx55]

Brett,

Did you look at moving the lower part of the shock only? It wont take much.

Oh sure, just dance on into this thread and give an easy way out!


Now why didn't I think of that. I will look into it. Thanks

[67RScamaroVette]

'67's have both shocks mounted in the back.. Could you use the LS1 lefts on both sides, while just fixing the e-brake problem? Or would you use one RH and one LH?
olly

[MrQuick]

just use as stock...1 left 1 right

[68BNUT]

Heres a good site of one of the members on here.

http://www.geocities.com/torkerscamaro/torker.html

Its what I used when I was doing my swap. Of course this is the LT1 swap, I got confused reading through all the post's which one we started off with. I did not have to get to left handers I used the left and the right and came out ok. My shocks have been relocated to the inside of the leaf's.

[Mike B]

This might be a stupid question and its way late for this forum, but i have a 68 and want to do this swap. Do you really need the e brake, or atleast both. I live in an area with no hills or any thing so would it really affect me much?