Madaguy 1955 Nomad Build

[ryeguy2006a]

After what feels like a long time (for me) without a car, I'm happy to be able to post a project update. My family and I moved from Upstate, NY to Charlotteville, VA in June for better weather and schools among many other things. Prior to moving, I sold my long time project car some of you may remember called the "Penny Pincher Camaro". It was a 1968 Camaro with LSA supercharged 6.2, 6 speed and full pro-touring suspension. I loved that car, but came to the realization that if I wanted to regularly cruise to car shows and Sunday drives with the family it was increasingly getting cramped with two growing boys. The catalyst for selling the car came when we decided to take steps towards moving south, which we have been talking about for years. We moved at the end of June and I had been casually looking for a new project ever since. I knew that I wanted something with more interior space and something that had more utility. Two door wagons were my first choice and I wasn't just looking at Nomads. There were Ranch Wagons from the 50s that were cool, 64-65 Chevelle 300 wagons came in a two door variant, 59-60 Biscayne/Brookwood's came in a two door wagon, and a few others like Nova's and Falcons. At the end of the day I kept coming back to a 55-56 Nomad. The trouble is I didn't want to spend Nomad money. Then I stumbled on this car, but it was in Cape Cod which was about 10 hours from me, and knew that it was too far. I saw it posted for a several weeks, then I reached out to the guy and the rest is history.

We negotiated a little bit, and then I made arrangements to have the car shipped to me with a guy he does business with on a very regular basis. The shipper was from the west coast and kept getting delayed "a few more days", then after two and a half weeks of back and forth I decided that I was just going to make the trip. I did a ton of background digging on the guy and his business but truthfully, I was just getting nervous that I may be getting scammed. I've only ever bought cars in person with cash. Then I made the decision to just do it. GPS said it was 9.5 hours from my house, but that didn't include traffic delays or pit stops. I really thought that I'd be able to make the trip in one day. In my mind I thought that 19 hours total drive time will be hard, but doable...

Here's a few pictures along the way.

Started out at 3:30 AM and made it through DC with no traffic, then to NYC pretty quick on I95. I was slowed down, but not bad traffic considering. This was Maryland crossing the Susquehanna River

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52533603666_8fcde96ecd_b-1.jpg

Parts of NYC.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52533885409_d051865f87_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52534147533_89cc56ebfc_b-1.jpg

Crossing the George Washington

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52534147478_777e07d86b_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52533885294_e4ac4ae944_b-1.jpg

I knew that I would forget to take a picture once I got to the guys house, so when I was picking up the U-Haul I snapped a picture of my status. I was about 40 mins from his house, so I was really making great time and almost 21 MPG's! Not too bad for my 5.0 2015 F150. After NYC I didn't hit any traffic to speak of and it was really smooth sailing.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52533135257_8ac3e16b32_b-1.jpg

Now, onto the car! It's a 1955 Chevy Nomad. In it's current form it's mostly stock with a 327, turbo 350 transmission, manual steering and 4 wheel manual drum brakes. The body is in great shape, but overall needs some TLC and panel fitment. It's missing some of the trim, but is mostly there. At one point in it's life it was a pro-street car and still has the giant rear wheel tubs, but thankfully the exterior was left alone and will be straightforward to remove them and reinstall stock metal and adding a few inches to stock tubs. The interior is mostly gone, but that is really ok as it will give me an opportunity to start from scratch and maybe do something more custom. It was really hard to find an "in between" Nomad for a reasonable price as a project, that won't need a complete restoration as a rusted out POS. Or on the other side of the spectrum a show car that's $80k+.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52536218713_36a1325661_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52535204562_9a7cffcd7d_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52535204552_b5d5769729_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52536218693_89d67f8dea_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52535673776_25d69710c3_b-1.jpg

Pro-Street Wheel tubs...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52534178480_c6d6c32c23_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52533701451_9c8ea4596b_b-1.jpg

After I took a few photos and talked with the guy a bit, we got it loaded on the trailer and heading back home!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52534080475_5e555371e0_b-1.jpg

My 7 YO made the Magikarp decoration for my truck haha

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52533135222_d93149a046_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52534147323_d204620673_b-1.jpg

Took this as I was walking into a Starbucks to grab a powerful coffee around dusk.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52534147258_e5f8d1e626_b-1.jpg

The coffee didn't work as long as I would have hoped. I made it another two hours and called it quits around 8pm and found a hotel in Norwalk, CT. I was about 6.5 hours from home at that point.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52534147193_a51c8cefda_b-1.jpg

Drove through Bel Air somewhere on the way home. Thought that was pretty cool.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52533602996_f5590316d1_b-1.jpg

I figured I'd pull up FB Marketplace to see if there was anything interesting and sure enough there was a Gen5 L83 5.3 motor right on my way home in DC. I messaged the guy and met him right on the way home! The guy said his customer wanted it removed because it had a slight knocking, but I'm assuming that it was a DOD lifter as it's super common in those motors. But for an almost complete motor, I was willing to take the risk for $400 bucks!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52534147208_580fe37ffb_b-1.jpg

I didn't have the right straps to safely drive with the motor in the back so I ran quick to get some ratchet straps and found this guy checking out my car. He was asking all about the motor too. Lost track of how many people beeped and/or gave thumbs up on the way home.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52534080130_703952b78b_b-1.jpg

I knew that I was getting close when I could start to see the Blue Ridge mountains again.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52533135067_94b93115a3_b-1.jpg

Then, home sweet home!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52534080270_6c3cd53332_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52533134997_9cfd7d41a1_b-1.jpg

I'm so excited and still in a little disbelief that I found one of my dream cars. One of the first model cars that I ever bought as a kit was a 1955 Bel Air. My boys are both really excited and when my youngest son (3) was telling me about how he can't wait to work on it with me he called it a Madaguy. We loved it and it stood out to me immediately as the new name for the car. My plans/goals for this car are going to be similar but different than my Camaro. First, the car won't be caught up on jack stands for long periods of time aside from the initial effort I will need to put into the car to get it roadworthy again. Anything I do will need to be done within a few weekends at most. Next is that the car needs to ride really smooth, not necessarily perform well on an autox. Comfort is the name of the game. As you saw by the engine, I'll also be swapping it somewhere down the road, but I'll need to collect a bunch of parts between now and then.

Cheers,
Ryan

[thumper877]

Awesome congrats Ryan that looks like a excellent start. Looks like he had some old trucks too. Was he a collector or a flipper? Going to be a cool project. Looking forward to updates.

[eversaul86]

Congrats on the project! A lot of potential here! Can’t wait to see the progress.
Martin

[ryeguy2006a]

Thumper, He was a flipper. He buys/sells old pick up trucks. He traded one of the trucks he bought for the Nomad. I think he was into the car pretty cheap, so he was more flexible on the price which is good for me. :yeah:

[Pontiac Dreamer]

Looking forward to watching this build! Loved following both your TA and Camaro builds - I'm sure this one will be well executed as the others were!

[dhutton]

Nice find. Looking forward to following along.

Don

[71CUTTYS]

I guess since I cross the susquehanna almost daily living in cecil county maryland I take its beauty for granted. Thats a beautiful pic of it!

[lsx70]

Can't wait to see how this plays out! feel free to reach out with any trifive questions!

[andrewb70]

Nicely done Ryan! Looking forward to the build.

Andrew

[Pingar]

Looks like a nice car to start with.

[Smitham32803]

I have always loved the 55 and 56 Nomads. So what is the vision for the car? You going to do a custom chassis? you have had it for a few weeks now so i am sure the plans have been started.

[ryeguy2006a]

Smitham, just like all of my cars I can see the Nomad evolving in stages. My short term goals are to get the stock-ish floors reinstalled and getting rid of the pro-street tubs. I need to reinstall the rear seat and get a the stock style fuel system back in the car. I want to keep the car in running/driving condition and do more driving in it than I did with my Camaro. I really got the 68 dialed in, and then I sold it. I was really missing my fun car this summer down here in VA. Long term goals for the car are doing the LT swap and running a Nerd Rods frame with front and rear C4 IRS. Time will tell how much of that gets done.

[btmatt]

Nerdrods is right up the road from me; are your plans to assemble the frame yourself? I visited with them about possibly doing a truck frame for my 1957 but ultimately chose to use Porterbilt dropmembers for adjustability. Note that you will have to run wheels with quite a bit of offset (think C4 wheels) with that frame. I believe that member tdishon used one of their frames on his truck build.

As an aside, Art Morrison and roadstershop offer some really nice frames that will give you plenty of options on track width

[ryeguy2006a]

Yes, I want to do the DIY frame. That cost entry point is nearly the same as me getting a full aftermarket front and rear frame, so that's the direction that I want to go. But first up is getting the sheet metal and interior back to a useable state.

[ryeguy2006a]

I finally got a chance to check out the car in detail a few times and really inspect what I got. I'm very pleased with the car overall. It's a really solid car that only needs a little TLC to get it where I want it. I wished that the car came with the original trim tag, but it's missing. I was able to contact the guy who I bought it from, bought it from haha. He was a really nice guy and told me that the guy he bought it from had if for about 30 years in the Kentucky area, and is pretty sure that he has the trim tag somewhere. I'm going to call him again to see if I can get a name and hopefully I can track him down and see if the tag is maybe in a drawer somewhere. Upon inspection, I am pretty confident that the car was a light blue with a white top. I found a few traces of color in hard to find spots.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52552504917_5f18fe12d8_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52553505178_956ec0c62c_b-1.jpg

These pictures are more for my record keeping, but some pictures of the overall condition of the car when I got it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52552964621_d8e9c6fd2c_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52552965446_a50de67bf5_b-1.jpg

I was told that it was a 327 motor and 350 auto trans. I visually confirmed it was a 350 trans, but the motor was a mystery to me. So I snapped some pictures of the engine block casting numbers and the suffix code on the front passenger side of the block. Turns out the block is a 1968 only block, and shares the same block as a Z/28 of that year! The suffix code is HJ, which comes back to a full size body, 327 and powerglide with 250 HP and a 4 barrel. Pretty interesting.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52553501753_e99d3acf8b_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52553433105_b74b2939ed_b-1.jpg

But then found out that it's topped with some poor flowing heads (3986388) with 1.72 intake valves and 1.5 exhaust that were made in the emissions era.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52552501437_67d02c186e_b-1.jpg

Interior pictures.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52553435040_cedfae071d_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52552503157_7e950a8d18_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52553259314_55fc6739d3_b-1.jpg

Love this dash! I'm hoping that I can get the gauges all working.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52552966296_d1d7373c7c_b-1.jpg

Could be an original 4 speed car?

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52553434520_5b94b3af7a_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52553258954_8dd498d593_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52553502653_1c6ebd8a8a_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52553258804_d1d630f4b6_b-1.jpg

Engine bay shot. Nothing special, but I do need to strip what's there and want to spray it semi-gloss black and fill unnecessary holes. Also need to upgrade the MC to something power and modern.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52553258794_8dfd80cdd6_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52552965536_910237d160_b-1.jpg

Decent Perma-cool Aluminum radiator with built in fan and temp sensor.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52552965516_bfa2bfb9f4_b-1.jpg

Missing the lower chrome trim pieces, but the grill is decent enough.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52553258294_8cd72eb2a3_b-1.jpg

I haven't done anything to really speak of, but I did remove and sell those racing bucket seats as they aren't anything I'm interested in. My youngest loves helping me in the garage so we removed the plywood floor that someone installed. Very happy to see that someone left the floor braces, so I'll just need the filler piece in the middle. I'm not sure if I'm going to delete the spare tire well yet or not.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52552965236_a0f5575def_b-1.jpg

I also moved some panels around to help with the fitment of the hood and tried to play with the rear liftgate. I called one of the two guys in the country that will straighten the liftgates to see if mine was twisted and sure enough it is. It's very common with Nomads/Safari's as the tension rods tweak them over time. I'm going to remove mine in favor of some gas struts.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52553501723_7be12393ef_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52553436390_623de3fd7c_b-1.jpg

Here you can see where it's not even close to lining up. I'm going to try and see if I can make it any better with adjustment, but I'll likely have to sent it off to MadMooks to get it straightened.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52553504853_3701373579_b-1.jpg

Next up is ordering some sheet metal, tracking down seats and any missing interior pieces. I'm also going to order a fuel tank and modify it now for EFI so it will be that much easier for future me down the road. I have a lead on a local guy who has hundreds of old cars, and I'm hoping maybe there's a chance that I can grab some seats and other misc. parts I need.

Cheers,
Ryan

[BobinFL]

Great project. I did a full frame off resto mod of a 55 2dr hardtop years ago, and yours is a lot better than what i started with. BTW chevy did not install 4 speeds in cars until 57, so if yours was an original manual car it was 3 on the tree only. Good luck

[thumper877]

Hey Ryan,are u wanting factory seats that you can custom cover or you wanting aftermarket stuff
I finally got a chance to check out the car in detail a few times and really inspect what I got. I'm very pleased with the car overall. It's a really solid car that only needs a little TLC to get it where I want it. I wished that the car came with the original trim tag, but it's missing. I was able to contact the guy who I bought it from, bought it from haha. He was a really nice guy and told me that the guy he bought it from had if for about 30 years in the Kentucky area, and is pretty sure that he has the trim tag somewhere. I'm going to call him again to see if I can get a name and hopefully I can track him down and see if the tag is maybe in a drawer somewhere. Upon inspection, I am pretty confident that the car was a light blue with a white top. I found a few traces of color in hard to find spots.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52552504917_5f18fe12d8_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52553505178_956ec0c62c_b-1.jpg

These pictures are more for my record keeping, but some pictures of the overall condition of the car when I got it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52552964621_d8e9c6fd2c_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52552965446_a50de67bf5_b-1.jpg

I was told that it was a 327 motor and 350 auto trans. I visually confirmed it was a 350 trans, but the motor was a mystery to me. So I snapped some pictures of the engine block casting numbers and the suffix code on the front passenger side of the block. Turns out the block is a 1968 only block, and shares the same block as a Z/28 of that year! The suffix code is HJ, which comes back to a full size body, 327 and powerglide with 250 HP and a 4 barrel. Pretty interesting.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52553501753_e99d3acf8b_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52553433105_b74b2939ed_b-1.jpg

But then found out that it's topped with some poor flowing heads (3986388) with 1.72 intake valves and 1.5 exhaust that were made in the emissions era.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52552501437_67d02c186e_b-1.jpg

Interior pictures.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52553435040_cedfae071d_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52552503157_7e950a8d18_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52553259314_55fc6739d3_b-1.jpg

Love this dash! I'm hoping that I can get the gauges all working.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52552966296_d1d7373c7c_b-1.jpg

Could be an original 4 speed car?

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52553434520_5b94b3af7a_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52553258954_8dd498d593_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52553502653_1c6ebd8a8a_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52553258804_d1d630f4b6_b-1.jpg

Engine bay shot. Nothing special, but I do need to strip what's there and want to spray it semi-gloss black and fill unnecessary holes. Also need to upgrade the MC to something power and modern.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52553258794_8dfd80cdd6_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52552965536_910237d160_b-1.jpg

Decent Perma-cool Aluminum radiator with built in fan and temp sensor.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52552965516_bfa2bfb9f4_b-1.jpg

Missing the lower chrome trim pieces, but the grill is decent enough.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52553258294_8cd72eb2a3_b-1.jpg

I haven't done anything to really speak of, but I did remove and sell those racing bucket seats as they aren't anything I'm interested in. My youngest loves helping me in the garage so we removed the plywood floor that someone installed. Very happy to see that someone left the floor braces, so I'll just need the filler piece in the middle. I'm not sure if I'm going to delete the spare tire well yet or not.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52552965236_a0f5575def_b-1.jpg

I also moved some panels around to help with the fitment of the hood and tried to play with the rear liftgate. I called one of the two guys in the country that will straighten the liftgates to see if mine was twisted and sure enough it is. It's very common with Nomads/Safari's as the tension rods tweak them over time. I'm going to remove mine in favor of some gas struts.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52553501723_7be12393ef_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52553436390_623de3fd7c_b-1.jpg

Here you can see where it's not even close to lining up. I'm going to try and see if I can make it any better with adjustment, but I'll likely have to sent it off to MadMooks to get it straightened.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52553504853_3701373579_b-1.jpg

Next up is ordering some sheet metal, tracking down seats and any missing interior pieces. I'm also going to order a fuel tank and modify it now for EFI so it will be that much easier for future me down the road. I have a lead on a local guy who has hundreds of old cars, and I'm hoping maybe there's a chance that I can grab some seats and other misc. parts I need.

Cheers,
Ryan

[dhutton]

Do you have the eyebrow and side moldings?

Don

[lsx70]

looks like a good start!

[ryeguy2006a]

Do you have the eyebrow and side moldings?

Don
I don't, but honestly for the price not even sure if I want to run them. Personally I don't feel that they make the Nomad look any better and I can spend $5-7k in a much better way haha I'll probably keep an eye out for a good price though and if I can find a decent set, I'll pick them up.

[Motown 454]

I love the new project, I'm a sucker for Nomads! It looks like a really nice start. I'll be watching. My daughter lives in Suffolk Va. you anywhere close? Enjoy your time with your little helpers.

[Alwhite00]

Great project.

[ryeguy2006a]

Thanks guys! Still collecting parts and doing my research. I'm hoping that mid-late January the project will be ramping up.

[ryeguy2006a]

Just mostly been researching what parts I need and how I want to approach the project. I started tinkering on the car here and there. I moved some of the front metal around to get the hood to open and close much better and fit a little nicer. I started to adjust the fitment on the rear tailgate and realized the hinges needed to be rebuild badly. I pulled the tailgate off and realized that the bolts holding the hinges to the body were completely frozen in place and likely been there since 1955... Also, the hinge pockets need some attention. So first I had to carefully drill out the hardware.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52560599857_c93cc746c0_b-1.jpg

Pockets are gone on the backside and need to have a patch panel installed too.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52561050211_29386dd9e2_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52561345089_631e3d6c82_b-1.jpg

Glad that I pulled the hinges off, looks pretty bad under here... Nothing that can't be fixed though.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52561050086_e296e59694_b-1.jpg

I found this local junkyard that was full of cars and many of them had been there for decades. I found that he has a 56 4 door wagon, so I grabbed these spring pockets from the car. They are a little pitted, but much better shape than what I've got and appear to be solid. I'm going to clean them up and see how they clean up.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52567419891_c21d65395c_b-1.jpg

Once I got the hardware drilled out it allowed me to get to the plates that sandwhich between the body and the hinge. I got them on my mill and drilled out the centers of the bolts. Since I had a good amount of the bolt on the backside, I was actually able to get a vice grip and spin them out! I want to clean them up, paint, build new cages, and get them reinstalled.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52573516664_ccdb9c281f_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52573692135_0d82185784_b-1.jpg

I also picked up a steering wheel because it was cheap and I don't like the one that came with the car.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52567419841_3261157dfb_b-1.jpg

That's it from a car standpoint, but I also have some cool parts updates. I was checking around on FB marketplace and found a guy through another guy who had some 2wd 4L80e's for a good price. They came from a fleet of express vans that had the drivelines pulled for low engine oil pressure. He had a few to choose from, and this one looks like a newer Jasper Trans so that's what I got.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52561345034_3219772cca_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52560599557_fda9393957_b-1.jpg

He also had a complete set of engine accessories from an LS motor, so I'm going to see if I can adapt them to the GenV motor. I saw there was a Holley accessory kit, that you could use on gen 3/4 or gen 5 with the right spacers. Got them for free so worst case they don't work and I'm not out anything.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52561050091_7834603b80_b-1.jpg

I needed a new intake for the L83 motor as I found it had a crack in it, so I figured since I need a new one I'll upgrade! I was reading about the LT1 guys who were swapping LT2 intakes on their cars and picking up 20+ HP, so I thought that would be the one that I should go with. I won't see that kind of gain especially with my stock cam, but I'll be upgrading down the road so it's a good upgrade. I picked it up on a Corvette forum and the guy threw in the Throttlebody, PVC hoses and hardware too!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52572776037_3ab2997082_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52573245316_ee7f214976_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52573773908_5b956d058d_b-1.jpg

I put it on the motor just to see what it looked like. Since the LT2 has the intake 180* out, their will need to be some ribbing removed on the rear side of the intake to clear the high pressure fuel pump.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52572775937_13301d327f_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/52573245301_6fd2e2ab4b_b-1.jpg

[ryeguy2006a]

Not a huge update as I've been mostly just collecting parts at this point. I have been slowly working on the what started as a simple tailgate hinge rebuild, into needing a whole new tail panel and rear cargo floor extension panel. After wire wheeling some of the section that looked a little odd, I found bondo on that rear section...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/52605615303_aa2d14f27c_b-1.jpg

And bondo over rust...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/52605362774_bce40fc847_b-1.jpg

Whole panel was unfortunately pitted pretty badly.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/52605362759_f175c85d35_b-1.jpg

Luckily I need to do surgery in that area anyway when I replace the wheel tubs, so I placed an order to Real Deal Steel and have the new cargo extension panel, but waiting on the tail panel and hardware kit. I also, finally got a chance to get one of the pins removed from the stock hinges. Wow, were they stuck in there and rusted away on the inside. Since apparently no one makes the replacement door pins right now, the door pins that I ordered were for a 55ish truck and were about 3/4" too short. So I opted to order a set from Dorman that are way too long, but I can turn them on my lathe to the right length.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/52605112486_0af0ce4767_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/52604610847_ef6bb0a780_b-1.jpg

Next part is a huge thanks to GTO Jack! He was tired of looking at some oil pans and posted them up in the for free section of the for sale! I messaged him about the knock off 302-2 pan and he shipped it right out to me. While they have a few sections cut out for tie rod clearance, it makes the perfect project for me to use my new TIG welder! So I'm hoping to practice up and get some panels buzzed in. Now some sharp eyed LS guru's may notice that this is an LS pan. Well after pricing out all that it will take to get the Gen5 motor installed in the car with the Holley Terminator X Max kit, I've decided to leave that swap for phase 2. I'm going to hang onto the motor and collect parts when they pop up, but I'm going to pick up a cheap Gen3 LS motor and use some spare parts I have to get it up and running sooner than later.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/52605615238_376c84f69f_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/52604611002_59e726ef4a_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/52605112571_0be75b82e5_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/52605534835_83206df5fa_b-1.jpg

Since I made the decision to go LS right now, I started looking around for a good candidate engine. After searching around for a few weeks, I found a 2011 5.3 for cheap and it came with a bunch of parts. So I'll either be swapping the reluctor rings to 24x to keep my budget on track, or horse trading the long block for a gen3 motor and keep all the parts that it came with.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/52617698051_46a3827deb_b-1.jpg

I feel like I'm starting to have a problem haha. It's also kinda cool that in my garage I have a gen 1 SBC 327, Gen 4 5.3(327) and gen 5 5.3(327).

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/52618186033_e586ee7d20_b-1.jpg

Last one is probably my most exciting post. I found a smoking deal on a split front bench seat! It's in rough shape, but nothing a little TLC can't take care of. Most of these are selling for around $600-800 and I found this for $50 bucks! It came out of a 55 Chevy, but is supposed to be a 57 Pontiac seat pattern.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/52622783381_e0749a2c4e_b-1.jpg

Cheers,
Ryan

[IMPALAMAN1]

love the progress.

[ryeguy2006a]

After a long struggle with rebuilding the tailgate hinges, I was finally able to get them torn down, cleaned up and rebuilt. I'll say that was a huge PITA! I thought that I'd be able to drive the pins out after drilling out the heads, but they were frozen in place. The second one was even more stubborn as it was frozen in both side of the hinge. The hinges aren't perfect, but they will function as they should now. I'm planning to get an upgraded billet aluminum pair from MadMooks down the road, but these will get the tailgate back on.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/52633185135_3b6930719f_b-1.jpg

I used Dorman #38400 and it was a perfect fit other than being a touch too long. I cut them down to 3.125" under head length and chamfered the sides. Had the perfect amount of stick out and looked really original to me. Just what I wanted.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/52632999044_38aa6a1157_b-1.jpg

This was the first attempt at 3.25" and was going to be too long once I drove it in.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/52632230342_0a66f9ed70_b-1.jpg

Primed pair of rebuilt original tailgate hinges.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/52632998984_79351365b5_b-1.jpg

My next project was a huge win for me as well as a really cool hot rodding adventure. This super cool old school salvage yard near me is full of old cars. I went back yesterday and got permission from the guy to cut out the rear floor section on this 56 Wagon. The floor pans on it were in great shape for sitting for so long, and the rear wheel wells are really solid in all the spots that I need them to be. Here's a few pictures of the entrance into the junk yard. Just soo cool, and I love that it's only 25 mins from my house!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/52633184645_1b9807317e_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/52633229488_1481e19b9f_b-1.jpg

I didn't get any pictures from when I first got there because I had to get right to work. He's only open from 8-12 and after that he let's his dogs out! But here's the car after I carefully removed the one quarter panel. I did that same thing on the other side then just cut the pillars.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/52632998524_91ca1ca5df_b-1.jpg

After hitting several obstacles and not knowing where two body bolts were, I finally was able to get it out in one piece. What was simply amazing to me was that I removed at least a dozen bolts, and only broke or had to cut three. The rest came out with my impact driver! Just amazing to me, so glad we moved down south!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/52632998524_91ca1ca5df_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/52632229757_bd4216a071_b-1.jpg

And here's where the Hot Rodding adventure comes in. This place is about 100 acres, and this car was almost in the back corner of the property. Here's what I had to get this out with! Up and down hills on little tractor paths. Needless to say, I was exhausted when I finally got this back to the front shop! What I thought was really cool about what I did, is that was something that guys have been doing for so long in hot rodding, before you could go into a catalogue and buy what you need and get it two days later. I love to use original metal where I can, and this was in great shape considering how old it is, as well as sitting in that field for 40 years!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/52632743781_7076133984_b-1.jpg

I put everything back together and thanked the '56 9 passenger wagon for donating the parts to repair my Nomad.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/52632229677_13a6370270_b-1.jpg

Once I got it back to my house, I got it up on some saw horses and inspected more thoroughly what I worked so hard to get.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/52633184345_b04b07dcca_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/52633229148_41edf17b10_b-1.jpg

Too bad it's rusted here on both sides... I guess I'll just have to cut it out and add in a 2.75" strip. This is a pro-touring site after all. And the biggest regret that I have about building my Camaro was not putting in mini-tubs when I had the chance.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/52633229123_ce03de5803_b-1.jpg

It was getting late, but I ground down the seam with a wire wheel and started drilling out the spot welds. I'm going to separate the panels first, then prep them for installation/modification. I had a spot weld drill bit, but can't find it since the move so I ordered a new one.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/52632229387_7fa6d054c7_b-1.jpg

I also grabbed a column shift steering column and the cargo pan/wheel well sections came with some other parts attached that I've stripped off. I'm going to convert the column and indicator to a 4 speed PRND321 pattern.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/52633229048_5281e458f4_b-1.jpg

With that purchase, I've not got a ton of work ahead of me!

Cheers,
Ryan

[andrewb70]

Nice score on the wheel wells!

Andrew

[ryeguy2006a]

I haven't done any work on the Nomad, but I do have some updates. First off, unfortunately that cargo/floor pan section that I bought with the wheel wells will not work quite like I had hoped. Fortunately the wheel wells will work perfectly, however I was informed by a tri5 guru that the floor pan section that I bought is something of a unicorn as it was from a 56-57 only 9 Passenger Wagon, which has a very unique and "rare" floor/cargo section. It's different enough that I didn't want to mess with cutting/modifying it so I'll be selling it and hoping that maybe there's some guy out there that has been looking for this section of floor since it's not and like will never be re-popped.

With that news I had to start over on my search for the rear floor pan section, but still needed to separate all of my metal to get it out of my driveway and also store it easier. I drilled out all the spotwelds carefully and removed the two wheel well sections. Then I was left with the middle piece. It went pretty quick once I got in a rhythm.

Looks pretty rusty, but are really solid in the spots that I need them to be.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52667273235_044698ae64_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52667339248_3fba1159c4_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52666341687_17c91bdd8a_b-1.jpg

Here you can see where it's drastically different than the typical cargo/floor pan area with the shock mounts and added brace for the extra weight of 9 passengers.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52666837841_5111362732_b-1.jpg

Since I need so many parts to get this car back together I'm constantly parts shopping, and then I saw Andrew's post about the iBooster followed shortly after by many others. Brakes are where I need a serious upgrade as my car has 4 wheel drum brakes on a single pot MC. I got to shopping around and found a good deal from a Tesla disassembler. He sold me the iBooster, wiring and brake line sections off of a Model S. I still need to get some brackets to mount it to the firewall, but I think this will make a huge difference. I'm planning to pick up a pair of 5th Gen Camaro front Brembo calipers and make my own mounts. Not sure on what rotor I'll run, but it will likely be the stock 5th Gen too.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52666837846_23d3271f6e_b-1.jpg

I was also crunching numbers on what it would take to get the L83 into my car and at this time, it's more than I want to spend. So that had me on the hunt for a Gen4 5.3, and I really wanted to get one with an aluminum block. Then I stumbled on a guy who was selling a L76 with forged pistons. After I contacted him he mentioned that he had a tuning error that lead to a bent rod. After talking to him on the phone, I wanted to check it out to see things more closely. I looked it all over and there weren't any cracks in that cylinder and all the other rods were straight so I wanted the motor. To my surprise, he was willing to trade me straight for the L83, so I'm very pleased with that deal. I just need to find a new Gen4 rod, have the small end honed to .945" and I'll put it all back together.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52659181136_b0ac1c00b3_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52659673948_3371c91d24_b-1.jpg

After a little research I was able to find out that all 5.3, 6.0 and 6.2 gen4 motors share the same rods, and since I had picked up that 5.3 a few weeks earlier decided it was going to donate some parts. Time to tear that down and see why it was pulled in the first place. I assumed the normal DOD lifter failure, but it's fun to find out. Got the motor on my hoist and got to work on the teardown.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52659181061_3079b457be_b-1.jpg

It's a miracle, no broken exhaust manifold bolts!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52659465539_ffae9876a6_b-1.jpg

Really clean on the inside. Motor is supposed to have 190k on it, so I'm impressed so far.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52659673818_621f495f57_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52659673773_ae3fd8ccd2_b-1.jpg

Pulled the rockers off and I think I found out why it was pulled. "one of these things is not like the others"

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52659180941_d8ebb2df3a_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52659629205_57170c1c15_b-1.jpg

I didn't get any pictures, but I pulled both heads off and the cylinder walls all look good with visible cross-hatching and no metal in the cylinders. Cylinder 8 exhaust is the one with the bent pushrod, and in the cylinder looked great. So, looks like they were able to get it shut off in time before any damage occurred. I still want to flip it over and see what the bottom end looks like, but I'm thinking this may be a good short-block. Now I'm not sure what I want to do. I was able to get all the lifters removed but the one with the bent push rod. It wouldn't pull out from the top, so it's probably mushroomed on the bottom side. It should fall out once the cam is out, then I'll know for sure what I want to do. For now though I'm thinking I'm going to find someone who has a single gen4 rod.

Since I know the 4 wheel drums aren't going to work, I've been keeping an eye out for some 17"+ wheels that would work with the Nomad. I found a guy on FB marketplace who had a 2001 740i with M Parallel wheels who was selling the car for cheap and decided to ask him if he would sell just the wheels. To my surprise, he said he would sell them for $400 bucks and they have tires. Earlier that day I sold the rear wheels that came off my car for $200, so I was only into the wheels for $200 bucks! For those that don't remember, these were the same wheels that I ran on my 68 Camaro "Penny Pincher". Unlike my Camaro, these wheels are temporary as I really want a set of Salt Flat wheels from American Racing. But they look ok and will allow me to upgrade my front disks, so I'm stoked. The M Parallel wheel (BMW Style 37) is a 1 piece forged wheel and is a staggered setup 18x8 fronts and 18x9.5 rear. The front backspacing is perfect for muscle cars, and the rear requires a 1" spacer. I've got a set of spacers on order, but for now I put a front wheel on the rear just to see what it looked like. Much better than the 90s American Racing wheels!!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52663642045_a406b34012_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52663642050_ede360c1a5_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52663205971_46b7bc7298_b-1.jpg

And lastly I was able to go to the salvage yard early this morning and get the floor pan that I had partially pulled before I found that 9 passenger wagon. This is the section that I need, but it a little rusty in a few spots. This section is in ok shape, and will clean up pretty nicely. I just can't justify buying a full floor pan (or two half pans) only to cut off the rear section, with shipping so high. Now that I have this piece I'll be able to trim this down and get the wheel wells fit up. It will be nice to make some real progress to the body since I haven't been able to do much without this key piece. I basically need to build everything off of this section.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52666830151_cde156b45b_b-1.jpg

I also grabbed an automatic cluster since I'll be converting over to a column shift. I will need to get the 4 speed OD lense and detent kit, but this will work great to get me the mechanism I need. My cluster is in much better shape, so I'll just use the shifting guts from this one.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52666845186_9b2cb0333d_b-1.jpg

Hopefully my next update will be cutting out out the Pro-Street tubs and test fitting my floor section/mini-tub wheel wells.

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

I've been patiently collecting parts and waiting until I had everything before I started cutting out the wheel tubs. I finally got my chance and now's the time. I started by unscrewing (yes that's what was holding the middle portion down), the center hump, and cutting away a few spot welds. I was very surprised that this is how someone built this wheel tub section. On the outside it appeared that they did an ok job on the fabrication side, but turns out that wasn't the case. Not confident that sheet metal screws are a great way to secure floor pan sections...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52678967028_2da89a100e_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52678966973_184115c572_b-1.jpg

While I'm in here, I plan to fully butt weld the two floor pan halves together. Some of the spot welds missed and aren't connecting the two together. Then I made my first big cut. I wanted to get down to the original floor pans to see what I had left to work with. Thankfully they left me more than I had anticipated, so that is great news. That floor section I got from the salvage yard is rusty in the spots that are solid on my car, so I'll have a really clean repair.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52678756984_9e2b4b179d_b-1.jpg

Then I cut out the other side to see what that looked like. As I was cutting I tapped the side of the wheel tub with a hammer and this happened! Why did you take the time to add that much filler, but not to fully weld the panels together??

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52678471686_52497ba211_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52678966913_c3c72f3f1e_b-1.jpg

This section had no spot welds at all. The only thing holding it together was body filler.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52678471716_76dfd3f7e3_b-1.jpg

Once I cut away these sections, I was left with this opening. Overall, I'm pleased with the amount of the original floor that they left since it gives me a really good base to built back. As I was going over how I wanted to proceed with the repairs, it became very clear that I'll need to have the cargo panel in order to get the right height since I'll be splicing the two panels together. I ordered the cargo panel with the braces separate as I was informed that they don't coat the inner braces before they install them. I wanted to spray something behind to protect them, but I'm going to narrow it for the wider wheel tubs so that should make my job easier not having to drill out spot welds.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52678966858_4bbc8c9c16_b-1.jpg

I also grabbed some parts to get my engine back together. VVT Delete timing cover, new oil pump and 4x 3 bolt timing gear.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52672034502_99d055953c_b-1.jpg

I also found a single 8" M Parallel wheel on eBay shipped for $100 bucks, so I jumped on that. Since the wheels that I had came with 1 8" and 3 9.5" this will give me a complete staggered set.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52678756824_2ea7f13023_b-1.jpg

I wasn't sure what to do with the front seat since it was taking up a lot of real estate on the floor of my garage, so I decided to test fit it in the car. I still have plenty of room to work on the rear floor pan, so that's where it'll stay for the foreseeable future. It looks good in there, but the sliders are not from a Chevy. They must be from a Pontiac or something similar. I can modify the brackets to work with my floor, and then get a new seat cover for it. It needs some rust repair and reinforcement on the passenger side where you can see it's drooping down. Overall I'm happy with the placement of it. Looks right at home.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52678471801_8a2a9a0301_b-1.jpg

[Threepointtwo]

Lots of work but looking good.

[Snowcatter]

Prime candidate for an AME full chassis. Make that baby drive like a dream.

[ryeguy2006a]

Prime candidate for an AME full chassis. Make that baby drive like a dream.

I do plan to get an aftermarket chassis for this car in a few years, but I'm going with Nerd Rods frame that allows me to bolt up directly C4 front and rear suspension.

[andrewb70]

Really? C4? Meh...

I never liked how the C4 axles were also a part of the supporting suspension system.

Andrew

[ryeguy2006a]

Not a huge update, but I'm plugging away. I got the spot weld drill bit out and started separating some of the panels for the rear floor pan section that were welded to it. When I cut the section out, I cut everything around it much larger than I'd need knowing that I would have to cut and trim it down. Way easier to cut it too big than too small.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52686991285_a5d697da33_b-1.jpg

Once it was trimmed down, it was clear that I needed to cut more of the wheel wells away to get an initial test fit. What was amazing to me is how these wheel wells were put together in the first place. These welds were so cold that many of the spot welds didn't have enough penetration and were breaking off. It made the removal process very easy, but honestly a little scary that people put together panels like this.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52686048452_c50a7a7807_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52686991300_3d499eaa8c_b-1.jpg

This was a very rough fitment, but this panel will work perfectly! I also realized that the back side of the panel I got has a brace for the driveshaft bumper and my car was missing that too, so that's another win. I need to find some body mounts, or get a whole new kit, before I can go much further. I need to get the height set properly before I can burn it in for good. For now, I'll get the panel trimmed up for a much tighter fitment.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52686845694_0a0c18639b_b-1.jpg

I was also able to get the wheel wells trimmed up as well. The wells had all of the inner structures attached as well as the outer wheel houses. I had to cut out the inner structures I didn't need, then drill out the spot welds for the outer wheel house panels. Most of the wheel house panels are in really good shape, and I may or may not need them so I carefully removed them. If I don't end up needing them, I'll try and sell them to recoup some funds. The factory undercoating did a great job of keeping most of the metal in fantastic shape.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52686565461_bd3a6afb04_b-1.jpg

I had my garage helper with me too.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52686845714_ae38044c1e_b-1.jpg

It felt great to get these panels trimmed down and much closer to being installed. As you can see they still need a few patches, but they shouldn't take long to fix.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52686565376_d8fff3c80e_b-1.jpg

I'm still trying to think through how I want to install the wheel tubs and widen them. I should have the cargo panel and braces in the next week or so which will help me to locate the rear floor and wheel wells. Initially I'm thinking it may be best to install all the panels with screws or clecos, then narrow the cargo panel by the amount I want and bring all of the panels in to the modified cargo panel. I can't wait to get through the sheet metal phase, and into the more fun things like LS swapping the car!

Ryan

[ZZ430]

I do plan to get an aftermarket chassis for this car in a few years, but I'm going with Nerd Rods frame that allows me to bolt up directly C4 front and rear suspension.

Don't mean to clutter your thread but I know a guy with a similar set-up on a 55 and he loves it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/16851399305_5028fcbbf9_o-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/16850339431_0267c30147_o-1.jpg

[ryeguy2006a]

Don't mean to clutter your thread but I know a guy with a similar set-up on a 55 and he loves it.


That's great to hear! From what I've read, the upgraded C4 suspensions are a great match for the Tri5's.

[ryeguy2006a]

Another weekend and some more progress and parts. I worked more on getting my floor pan section modified and trimmed up to get a better mock up. The fit up is really looking great, and it will only need a little more trimming to be in it's final place. I'll need to make a few small pieces to go around the wheel wells, but I'll need other panels in place before that happens.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52694271392_0ca6d729f6_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52694271347_8e395c81de_b-1.jpg

Body mounts are now able to be centered in the frame mounts. Once I'm happy with the fitment, I'm going to take some sheet metal screws and secure it all before I start welding.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52695278508_cfd2d266d4_b-1.jpg

As I usually do after the kids go to bed at night, I was cruising FB marketplace and came across a guy selling a 55 2 door handyman wagon for parts. He was selling it as a whole car, but asked him if it had a rear seat and if he would sell separately. To my surprise he said it did have a seat and that he would sell separately with the brackets. After he sent me the pictures, the seats were in very good condition and very complete. Best part is his price was about 1/4 of the going rate for rear seats, plus it came with the brackets!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52695278318_370c71c4d5_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52695053359_d6f990000d_b-1.jpg

When I got there he had a few other parts, but ended up only buying the spare wheel well. It's very solid everywhere but where all the spot welds were drilled out. I'll have to replace some of the sections, but for the most part is in great shape. Love using original parts when I can.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52695278463_61e2926431_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52695201625_aca2a97a97_b-1.jpg

I got to talking with the guy and he ended up giving me some end mill bits and a hood ornament too! Car people are the best kinds of people!! Love this community.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52695053319_f3b088f163_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52695278488_359bb947af_b-1.jpg

I got sick of looking at the wheel wells and decided that it was time to get them removed. As I was cutting away I kept wondering why they did a lot of the things that they did. First up was cutting one of two large stitch welds that connected these two panels after chipping away the bondo that filled the 1/4" gap. So much wrong about that last sentence...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52699750637_abb7dfe9f5_b-1.jpg

Oh, what's this? A little hidden compartment for body filler to go.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52700763593_68cfda4076_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52699750512_ff4c200906_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52700690035_287e3aa549_b-1.jpg

If you look closely you can see the rings of body filler that were used in apparently different stages. Almost like the rings of a tree.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52699750457_e7d159020c_b-1.jpg

Same on both sides.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52700530224_b777fa2c23_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52700689875_5a7201a33e_b-1.jpg

This is where I left it for the day. While scary, it looks way better to me than before. The good news to come of all this destruction is they did leave the stock outer wheel wells intact as well as some of the stock wheel wells which will make my job a little easier. I'm hoping that I can just cut what's left of the inner wheel wells and see what's there to work with.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52700270206_dc779c8b76_b-1.jpg

With the wheel tubs all removed, I was able to start checking things out. I knew that with the cargo area, it would lay flat all the way to the rear floor pan section. So eyeballing it with the section I cut out mocked up, it looks very flat. The rear floor panel may need to come up just slightly, but is a really good place to start.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52699749972_5905b508b3_b-1.jpg

Now for the next few pictures, if you squint it really looks like something.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52700270161_6ff19300e9_b-1.jpg

The FedEx guy had impeccable timing, as the rear cargo area that I ordered was delivered! I ordered the flat section and the inner braces separately because I wanted to weld them in myself, but also prime /paint the inner sections to prevent future corrosion, but also separately qualified for free shipping through Jeg's! The cargo panel with braces welded together has to be shipped oversized. Anyway I couldn't help myself and took it out of the box to give myself some motivation. I need to clean off all of the remaining pieces of the wheel wells so that the panel will sit flat against the rear brace, but it looks great. Very pleased with my progress this weekend. Hopefully I can work for 15-20 mins here and there this week to continue to peal back the layers of what the PO did. Once I get to some solid metal I can hopefully start test fitting more panels.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52700763003_78489fdc7a_b-1.jpg

[thumper877]

Wow that's crazy how some people throw these cars together. Alot of work but in the long run u will have such a nicer car. Keep up the good work Ryan.

Ron

[ryeguy2006a]

Thanks Ron! It will be a huge relief when I can get the panels replace and interior back together. I'd much rather be working on fun stuff like mechanicals, wiring and plumbing.

- - - Updated - - -

It's also interesting because you can tell that there were two different guys handling the repairs. The floor install looks nice, but the guy who did the tub job... not so much. Probably one of those you get what you pay for scenarios.

[Steve68]

Great build Rye! I'll be watching!

[ryeguy2006a]

Thanks Steve!

So my plan this time around was to buy a car that was painted, and didn't need a whole lot of repairs. I'd say the plan failed, but in my defense the previous owner hid the "repairs" very well. Seems like I just keep cutting deeper and deeper, but thankfully I came to the end of the covered up rusty metal. It's disappointing to see when people just layer new metal over rusty metal then cover it with body filler. I kept going on the driver's side and finally hit the original metal.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52715188245_a03b7f40d3_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52715239603_445d03c6fb_b-1.jpg

That panel above the wheel well will need some patches, but thankfully I have extra from the wheel wells that I bought. Glad that the window channels are in good shape. Out comes that outer wheel well.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52715239413_c4bd6348c4_b-1.jpg

It's easy to see now, but when I was looking under the car it all looked minty. Here you can see the bottom looks great, but the top had another secret. More new metal layered over rusty metal.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52715239433_d50c7fbb7e_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52714766221_cb2fb17311_b-1.jpg

I'm glad when I pulled the wheel houses out of that 9 passenger wagon that it came with the outer wheel houses because they are in pretty good shape with just some small patches needed. The lower section of the wheel house is in good shape, so I can section off what I need and splice it to the one in good shape.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52714245142_4ea9249a16_b-1.jpg

Did a little measuring, then just cut it. It lined up nicely, and after I tacked it in place fits just like the one that came off the car.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52715239298_ffee1e464e_b-1.jpg

Finally broke out my new welder. Everlast MTS 225, and the MIG Function works great. I should have ground back the metal more, but the kiddos were sleeping and didn't want to be too loud.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52714766021_1f86b49a1d_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52715239098_e9594dd586_b-1.jpg

The front outer wheel house is actually in great shape, but I'll need to weld on a new tab that attaches the rear/upper panel that I just repaired.

Here's just another example of what not to do. If you have weak stomach's, scroll quick.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52715024714_53fc197565_b-1.jpg

After all of that cutting I decided to get some motivation and roughly mocked up the wheel wells again. To get a better idea of how they will sit, I needed to trim off the little dip from the 9 passenger cargo panel. Just needs to be straight across, so painters tape did the trick.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52714766016_f4e05e6f1d_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52714244967_efd8d8e7e9_b-1.jpg

What I'm coming to realize is that the rear section of the wheel house is much different on the Nomad vs the other tri5 wagons. I could see that the angle was different, but that also makes the top section too long so I'm going to need to do some cutting. I made one big cut, then was able to get the panel to sit down nicely where it will eventually go. It's a bit unconventional, as there is usually just a flange left that welds to the upper structure, but since mine is so rusted in spots, I'm going to be doing a little of both and left the top tab attached. I'll spot weld that to the upper channel, then left the flange for the rest of the wheel house. I'm going to use some sheet metal screws when the time comes to secure it all, and tack weld the whole wheel well together once it's all fitting great. Then I can remove it and weld into a solid piece on my bench.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52715238868_3fbe4eedd4_b-1.jpg

Really happy with that fitment. Once I get the panel all patched up, it will fit really well.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52715024429_e553c70f54_b-1.jpg

Then one thing that kept bothering me was that middle brace seemed to be shifted towards the driver's side. It wasn't allowing the wheel well to go straight back, then I threw a tape measure on it and it was about 3/8" towards the driver's side. With that information, it changes the game. I needed to see what was going on with the passenger's side too so that I can make sure that it's square. Time to cut up the passengers side. I was hoping to leave it and get the one side mocked up to give the body more rigidity. Nope...

I'll spare the details, but it's the same story on this side as well.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52714244947_a36389e52b_b-1.jpg

This is why we can't have nice things.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52715024554_f1f49fc2c4_b-1.jpg

I don't like leaving the car like this, but it gives me the motivation to get it back together.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/52714244962_f2d25b888b_b-1.jpg

I'm going to pick up some weld-through primer very soon and get some panels welded back into the car shortly. Another panel that I need to replace which is going to be a huge PITA will be the heavy steel panel where the tailgate mounts. That was spliced and cut up over the years, so it just needs to be completely cut out and a new one welded in. I need to replace that panel before I do a final weld of the wheel wells because it attaches to almost everything in the rear of the car. I also need to figure out how to brace it all from moving when I replace that panel. That's one of the next items on my list to address, so stay tuned.

Cheers,
Ryan

[Steve68]

cut grind weld cuss repeat

[ryeguy2006a]

Yes sir! Hoping to be doing more welding than cutting though going forward.:fingersx:

[Steve68]

Yes sir! Hoping to be doing more welding than cutting though going forward.:fingersx:

That's always a plan, my buddy has a welding business, he actually worked for me on the Shuttle program, he welded all my 4 link parts, in about 2 hrs, he tells me "Stevie you make my life so easy, I just come here and weld! no fab, no set up, everything is done for me!!!

[capri v8 driver]

With so much rust and bad repair jobs in the past would it not be a good idea to have the car sandblasted or dipped?

[ryeguy2006a]

With so much rust and bad repair jobs in the past would it not be a good idea to have the car sandblasted or dipped?

That may be the case if I was doing a full on show car, but this project will be a nice cruiser that will go to Cars and Coffee events. Maybe an occasional car show. The paint that's on it is decent 7/10, so I'm going to stick with that. If I blew the car apart to blast it, I'd be spending tens of thousands of dollars and push the completion date out at least 4 years. If I can continue at my current pace, I think that the rear cargo area will be back together in the next month or so. Then I can focus on doing the LS swap, basic interior, brakes and possibly be driving the car by the end if the summer. At least that's my plan right now. I do change my mind a lot so who knows.

[Steve68]

Thats the way to do it, fix and drive it,

I have a 88 GT Vert' super nice car PO wrecked it, I got it easy fix, nope frame straightener ripped the frame and strut tower apart rusty, I replaced everything, sanding priming, trying to make it look smooth and nice, buddy has the body shop says just paint it and be done everything gets covered anyways, scuff it and shoot the damn thing fix it!!

now its just drive the damn car!

[ryeguy2006a]

With all the old wheel wells cut out, the next project was to cut out and replace the rear brace where the tailgate mounts. It had been repaired over the years (poorly) and needed to completely cut out and replaced. I had been thinking about how I wanted to replace this panel over the last several weeks and while crude, I found the best way to approach this panel replacement was to prop up the rear of the roof. It would be held up in place, but allow me to work around the panel. What I learned in hindsight is that this panel is the only thing holding up the rear of the car. More on that later. So I bought some fresh cut off disks and got right to work.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/03/52734777403_f2c6db13d7_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/03/52734777378_e02b1cc518_b-1.jpg

After about 30 mins of carefully cutting off the rear panel, this is when I realized that it is the main support for the rear of the car. In a panic I quickly got it all removed, and the new panel in place and clamped with multiple vice grips.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/03/52733770132_1edb55f495_b-1.jpg

I grabbed some really nice weld-through primer at my local auto paint store. They recommended this over the copper weld as they said the body guys love this now because it gives great coverage and is half the cost. Figured they would be the best guys to learn from so I grabbed two cans. Also some Trim black paint for the firewall when I get to that point.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/03/52734547999_93daafe8f6_b-1.jpg

There was some fitment required to get that new panel to fit nice and tightly to the rest of the panels. Once I was happy with the fitment I got the fronts and backs all painted with the weld-through primer.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/03/52733770047_04f49859de_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/03/52733770002_28bdfc281d_b-1.jpg

I was able to get the screws that had rusted off long ago removed so I could fit up these hinge covers. I need to clean it all up with a flap disk, but for now it's ugly and the covers fit nicely. I'll clean them up later after the support panel is welded back in.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/03/52734709025_bbede01f16_b-1.jpg

Then I coated the support panel to get it all fit up.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/03/52734547744_625466eafa_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/03/52734777178_60df44c291_b-1.jpg

At this point, I was happy with the rear support panel fitment against the body. But after I rebuilt the rear hinges with the new panel in place, I tried to re-fit the rear tailgate without success. Whatever I did the tailgate was still tight at the top left, and loose bottom right just the same as when I bought the car. It then dawned on me that the rear of the car had possibly shifted when they previously installed those big wheel tubs. This is a picture of the tailgate fitment when I bought the car. It was actually touching and overlapping at the top left side.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/03/52744698131_7d93ca9127_b-1.jpg

So what I did was with the tailgate in place, I left the support panel clamped to the body and unclamped it from the body mount supports. The rear of the car could be shifted a bit left and right. I pushed it towards the passenger side about 3/8" and to my surprise the tailgate fit almost perfect. Definitely within the factory tolerances back in 1955. I couldn't believe it was really that simple. Before I did this, I also checked the body vs. the frame alignment. Best I could do was a frame to pinch weld and it came up that the body was shifted about 1/2" to the passenger side.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/03/52744582866_d0319ba683_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/03/52745014879_ded60f1a55_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/03/52744837074_6e43f8a72d_b-1.jpg

With that problem solved, I attempted to center the body on the frame, but wasn't able to with my current toolset. So instead I made sure that the rear body mount supports were both shifted to the passenger side, and matched the rest of the body. That way when it's centered, the rear mounts will be too. Time to weld it back together!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/03/52744582666_a6c98952d8_b-1.jpg

My new Everlast welder does a good job. I still need to dial in the settings, but that had solid penetration on both panels.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/03/52744582786_8a51233862_b-1.jpg

I'm very happy to get rid of that wooden support and have the body being supported by the mounts again. I measured many times during the process as well as taped around the board top and bottom to ensure that it hadn't moved. Next up, parts updates!

[ryeguy2006a]

I'm always on the look for parts and came to realize that the M-Parallel wheels that I bought just don't go with the style on this car. So I posted them online and was able to sell them and then picked up a set of Boyd Coddington wheels that need some polishing. They are double staggered 17x8 fronts and 18x9 rears. Really happy with this style. They need new tires that are a much larger diameter, but otherwise love the style. I'm going to try to get away with using the tires that are on it at least for a little bit. Probably not though since I change my mind frequently haha.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/03/52734708940_4443b83c40_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/03/52734294976_94e36cb97f_b-1.jpg

Next up was probably the best deal that I'll get on this car. I saw an ad for a pair of front grills that weren't in great shape, but came with the trim that goes around the opening which I didn't have. I chatted with the guy a bit and he said that he had some Nomad parts in his attic. So I went that next morning to see what he had. When I got there he had some side and rear windows that were in good shape that also had some trim I didn't know I was missing and the side window latches. Perfect! I also mentioned to him that I was missing the interior window garnish moldings and he said that he thought he had them, but wasn't sure where they were. So after building a little rapport with the guy, I joked that I would be willing to go up and look if he didn't mind even though he didn't know me from Adam. To my surprise he said yes, so up I went. It was actually very well lit, and after about 5 mins I saw them. I was stoked, but then my heart sank because I didn't know what he was going to ask for them so I asked him. He said he wasn't sure, so I said, How's $100 bucks and to my great surprise he said yes! If you don't know, take a minute and search Nomad Garnish Mouldings on eBay. I almost felt guilty buying them for that price, but so happy to have them. :woot: Sometimes you just have to ask!

Here they are!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/03/52733769867_94e4173a76_b-1.jpg

Got home and saw this tucked in-between the bundle of moldings. Wonder what shop these came from?

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/03/52733769737_30b858964a_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/03/52734708795_5cc2982564_b-1.jpg

Here's the other parts I got too. I couldn't stop smiling the whole way home.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/03/52733769777_4e4e589537_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/03/52734547494_3452a6e676_b-1.jpg

Then before I left we were talking and he said that he had a bunch of emblems he wasn't going to ever use and that I could have them if I wanted. Yes Sir!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/03/52733769857_0f3476cb66_b-1.jpg

Now that the rear support panel is final welded in, I was looking at what my next steps were. I needed to weld the middle support back in and squared up with body. After looking at that panel a bit, it was too rusty for re-installation. The good news is that the 9 passenger cargo/floor panel that I cut out had one that was in fantastic shape. So, broke out the spot weld driller again. It took me about an hour to get it all broken loose, plus I like re-using original metal vs. buying a new one.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/03/52744181017_ff4a3ce05f_b-1.jpg

This panel is in really good shape, just needs to be cleaned up before I weld it in the car. It's hard to believe this car sat in a field for 40 years!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/03/52744582741_34e31c09aa_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/03/52744998900_94dc9d2534_b-1.jpg

That brings the build up to date. Hoping to get the inner panels cleaned up so that the inner wheel wells can be re-installed very soon. I can't wait to test fit the rear seat!

Cheers,
Ryan

[thumper877]

Wow you hit the jackpot at his house. Some hard to find parts and a great deal. It's looking way better. Those windows look really great shape too.

[Steve68]

Nice to meet people that will help instead of gouging you, which seems that's what everyone wants to do,

[ryeguy2006a]

All the work over the last several weeks getting the rear brace cut out and replaced has led up to the fitment stage which I have been looking forward to for so long. I've seen many shops these days use sheet metal screws instead of clecos, so I decided that I'd give them a shot. I started off by getting the driver's side wheel well in place, and the rear floor section. I made sure to offset the rear floor body mounts to the passenger side to copy the rest of the body mounts. With the new body mounts installed, (Thanks Zanie) and shifted all the way over to the passenger side, the wheel well lined up perfectly. So I got out a box of screws and went to town zipping them in every few inches, and it worked so nicely. Pulls the metal up tight to the body and will only leave a small hole when I remove them. I still have a bunch of metal that needs to be trimmed off this panel, but I'm very pleased with how it is fitting. There are also a few spots that are pitted badly that I'll need to cut out, but I'll do that after the majority of the panel is welded in.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/03/52759845365_32c883a083_b-1.jpg

Next, I was able to get out the new cargo panel and do a real test fit. I was super excited because it dropped right in place which tells me that I'm right on the money! Always nice when a plan comes together. I found out that again, the 9 passenger wagon cargo panel is just a little bit different. It didn't have two little dips in the brace for the gas tank, so it's not going to work without some modifications, so I'll leave that for another day. Threw in the crusty one just to get everything mocked up.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/03/52759845260_b427016112_b-1.jpg

Next I pulled out the passenger side wheel well, and got it trimmed up for installation. I copied what I did on the driver's side to make things easy. Once that rear upper section was cut out, I had to trim the back slightly and it went right in. Held it in place with sheet metal screws and it really almost fell into place. Very happy with how everything is fitting up. Not sure if it's because they are original parts, or what but I'm not complaining. All the work to get them cut out and trimmed up has really paid off.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/03/52759845265_1670861910_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/03/52759927398_95616bb141_b-1.jpg

The daylight showing from the underside is quickly shrinking! The passenger side wheel well piece will need to be fabricated as it was cut out before I got the panel. I bought a shrinker/stretcher kit from harbor freight so I should be able to knock those out pretty quickly. What's most important to me is how nicely the wheel wells are fitting up to the outer wheel wells, inner structures, cargo area and rear floor pans. Now that it's all fit up I can leave the panels in place and build all my patch panels now that I know it all fits so nicely.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/03/52758899012_b34db1b4f4_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/03/52759845090_849ca3d82f_b-1.jpg

And here's the shot I've been waiting so long to see. It's really coming together nicely, but now that 80/20 rule kicks in. All the little details, patch panels and etc are what is going to take up the majority of the time before I can final weld them in. Hoping that I can put in a few minutes here and there over the next several weeks and get it all welded together.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/03/52759443106_0559517fbf_b-1.jpg

[Way2qwk4u]

Making good progress. There’s no way I could get all that fab work done. Let alone quickly. How it keeps going well.

[MTBSully]

Wow what a project! Was wondering when you might get another project car. Im sure this build thread will be just as epic as your old one!

[ryeguy2006a]

I wasn't able to get anything done last weekend as my parents came down to visit from NY. I was able to get a little done through the week last week and this past weekend. The biggest thing was getting the car cleaned up and cleaned out in the interior to start work on welding in the panels. I had been sweeping all the dust, rust and little pieces of metal and body filler into a pile under the car. I was pretty shocked when I saw how large that pile was. About 3' in diameter!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/04/52790989909_e528272de2_b-1.jpg

I got the car centered up and up on my tried and true wheel stands. I built these over 10 years ago when I was building my first car and have kept them around as they come in handy.

After I bought the Boyd Coddington wheels, I had been going back and forth with them because they were going to need a lot of elbow grease to bring the shine back, needs 4 new tires and the fronts may or may not be able to fit the C5 front brakes. But I bought one of those powerball polishers and wanted to give it a go. It turned out decent for just a little polishing with a red scuff pad and about 10 minutes with a powerball. There were some stubborn "dots" that weren't coming out so I'm not sure exactly what do with that situation.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/04/52790754111_2e24f24dd2_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/04/52790754101_d7ccb2f487_b-1.jpg

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Well this morning on my way to drop off my son to a spring break camp, I saw a set of what looked like enlarged rally wheels on the side of the road. I turned around and they were Vision 55 wheels in 17x8" and 18x8.5" with good tires. I called the guy and couldn't believe when he said $400 for the set. I couldn't get to the ATM and back quick enough. When I got home I confirmed that not only will the C6 base brakes fit, but the Z51 brakes should also work with a small spacer or grinding on the caliper. I really love the way that they look and are very period correct. They were off of a truck, so they have 27" tires which work perfectly in my wheel wells. Couldn't be happier as these were a set of wheels that I had originally considered if I couldn't find any used.

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https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/04/52790199197_df93fe98ce_b-1.jpg

Love the way they fill out the wheel wells, just needs to be lowered slightly in the front and rear.

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I have also been considering my options for gauges, and I'm going to attempt to retrofit this 99 Buick LeSabre speedometer into my stock dash cluster. The sweep is very close the 55-56, and it should have the same 4k PPM signal that I'd need from the transmission. I tore it apart and am trying to figure out how to get it all to work together.

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Once my younger son woke up from nap, I was able to get the jig saw and grinder out so that I can start butt welding the rear floor pan section to the existing floor pan. It took a while to get the rhythm, but once I did, it started going pretty quickly. Had to stop for for Sunday dinner, but I'll hopefully get to plug away at it a few minutes here and there throughout the week. There are a few spots that have deeper pits, so the plan is to get the panel tacked in along the entire perimeter, then go back and cut out the bad spots and replace with good solid metal. That hopefully reduces the amount that the panel is distorted.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/04/52790989689_13524e7c5d_b-1.jpg

Another thing that is very common with Nomad's is that the rear lift gate can become distorted and twisted over time due to the torsion rods that help assist with lifting it. Mine is twisted, but not nearly as bad as some that I've seen online. So the best thing that can be done at this point is to remove the rods. I talked with the owner of Mad Mooks who is one of the few go to guys for repairing the liftgates, and he suggested just cutting out the rods. They are such problem that they aren't really worth anything, so that's what I did. I noticed that for some reason I wasn't able to lift the gate up past about level with the roof, but it should lift much higher. Well it was the rods that were holding it back.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/04/52790199587_fdbfc3d03c_b-1.jpg

Now it lifts all the way up! They make gas struts, but the liftgate really isn't that heavy so I'm not going to worry about it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/04/52790199577_da3bf84d3b_b-1.jpg

Cheers,
Ryan

[thumper877]

Great find on the wheels. Those look so much better than the Boyd wheels. Always loved the rally wheels

[Motorcitydak]

Congrats on scoring those wheels! Funny how things can pop up in your back yard like that. I’ve heard before how any project you could want is likely within a short drive from you, just things are not always for sale when you are in the market. Also I bet you feel good getting that whole mess out of the car!

[Jonathonar89]

Keep the motivation man. Good job!

[ryeguy2006a]

I'm so happy that I scored those wheels yesterday. I've been worrying about what wheels to run and it's a huge relieve that they checked all my boxes. Good tires, will fit C6 brakes, and look great on the car. I also saw that Vision wheels have other hub caps, so I may look into the smooth ones.

[ryeguy2006a]

Slow and steady I'm making progress. I was able to get the rest of the rear floor section butt welded together.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/04/52824454124_85a69aa499_b-1.jpg

I ground down the spot welds then used a body hammer and dolly to level out the two panels to make for a flatter butt weld. Then I sprayed some black paint down because I was sick of looking at that rusty piece. I was able to get it fully welded and ready to install some patch panels.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/04/52823705082_4fd13e37bb_b-1.jpg

I started to mock up the repair for the side of the floor that was cut off, but I realized that before I could build that piece I needed to repair the wheel well and inner structure prepped for welding. I used the original intact lower section as a template for the new piece.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/04/52824717638_d9e1a381f3_b-1.jpg

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Then the upper panel. Rinse and repeat.

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Before I pulled off the mocked up wheel well, I marked it for the rusted inner section that I needed to cut out. I then cut out the section, drilled spot welds and then used my dolly and hammer to straighten out the flange.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/04/52824676735_f391ee5f98_b-1.jpg

I cleaned up this section and it's solid right above that rusty lower section and I've got a good upper piece that will give a clean solid repair for. Was glad that there wasn't anything crazy with this panel other than someone spread a layer of body filler over the tar undercoating

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/04/52824717338_2f6445bf6b_b-1.jpg

I put the wheel well back on as a test fit and I'm very pleased with how it's all lining up. Just needs a little trimming and it will make a very clean repair.

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Then another bad/good news situation. As I was grinding the inner structure to prep it for welding, I found some other bad repairs with body filler... I cut it all out and bought new panels to replace. The good news is that was the last of the bad repairs and it was all solid clean metal around it. I couldn't really go any further though since I have to wait for those panels to come in. I also ordered a new front wheel house section as these were in pretty bad shape as well.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/04/52823704862_e30995b569_b-1.jpg

I sold the motor and transmission to my friend Kerry a while back, but I held onto it for a while until we could arrange to meet up. I just left it installed in the car since it was pretty happy there and took up less floor space that way. Well I'm meeting him at Spring Carlisle next Saturday and that meant that I needed to get it out of the car. Really wasn't too bad as there wasn't that much holding it in the car. Just a few wires, hoses and bolts. I only had to remove the core support and radiator and then it cleared the grill. I forget how much iron block/head engines are! I'm definitely going to need to get new coils and/or cut a coil out to lower the front with the all aluminum engine going back in.

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My new panels should be in today so I'm hoping to get them test fit and get them installed this week. I'd much rather be doing electrical or mechanical work over the body work. But thankfully it's just floor pan work and not exterior body work where I need to sand and prep panels. Things should go much quicker when I can just spot weld rather than butt welding.

Cheers,
Ryan

[FormTA]

Man, if I had time I'd meet up with you two! Good to know it's going to a good home! Looks like you're making great progress!

[ryeguy2006a]

We're meeting on Saturday at Spring Carlisle. Come on down!

[ryeguy2006a]

Well after I was left with this large hole, I needed to find a way to fill it. I had started to make my own replacement panel, but I didn't have a proper metal brake so the panels turned out so so. Got to looking online and a guy actually makes a piece and sells them on trifive.com and eBay. So I grabbed two and they were just what I needed and they fit perfectly. Plus it came with the curved piece for the door jamb that would have been very difficult for me to create from scratch.

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I got it all mocked up and the inner panel trimmed up on the car.

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The panel was short by about 4.5" so I got a new piece and roughly cut it to fit, then installed it, used a sharpie to trace the hole outline, and then trimmed the panel to fit the contours.

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Got the piece welded together and extended. Here's the last test fit before final welding.

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That's as far as I got building the panel last week. I always try to go to the Spring Carlisle event as a kick off for spring. Great show and I love checking out the swap meet. I can usually pick up a bunch of good parts.

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I had been communicating with a vendor Jay Hammond who has a huge supply of tri five parts. What caught my eye was a complete set of 1955 Nomad door panels he had with ALL trim including the 6 1955 only waffle pieces! The door panels were also in very good condition for being originals. I've got a plan for those as they do need to be reinforced and some TLC before they can be installed. More on that later.

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Here's a close up of the waffle panel. It's a really cool pattern that is unique 1955 Nomad's only. Pretty happy to get my hands on a really good condition set of originals. They will polish up really nicely.

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I also found that the 50's tech that they used was very fascinating. It's literally a nail spot welded to the trim!

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I also found two pairs of coil packs for $30 bucks! Not sure which set I'm going to use, but I'm leaning towards the heat sync pair. The other set didn't come with the coil bracket, but are LS1 style.

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Not sure what it came off of, but I also found this nice looking transmission cooler. It's made by Long and it appears to be really nice quality. I think that should be good enough to cool the 4l80e. I'll flush it before I use it to make sure that it's not full of junk.

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Last thing I found was an electric wiper motor. For those that aren't aware, most tri five's came with vacuum powered wiper motors. The guy I bought the motor from wasn't sure if it worked, but when I got it home and bench tested it, it turned right on and operated very quiet and smooth. Very happy about that.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/04/52842652905_23f2be9b61_b-1.jpg

I had a great time and talked to a lot of great tri five vendors. I learned a lot about the differences between the years and how so many of the parts have very small variances between years. I'm hoping to get the lower patch panel welded together this week and get the wheel wells buttoned up soon.

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

I was able to get the inner panel patched up and a final weld done. I still need to knock down the welds then coat the entire inside of the panel. Now that this panel is welded in, I can get the rear floor pan patch panel made and welded in. I had my wire feed up a little to high on the spot welds, but they are all solid with penetration.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52865153108_8dd520f358_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52864135867_0d9bedce5d_b-1.jpg

Then I turned my attention to the driver's side, with a very similar bad repair. It was the same style where they crudely threw a panel over the existing rust. You can see through that access hole where the panel was put over the original metal. No prep or seam sealer was used so the rust was left to thrive. Glad I caught it when I did. That inside panel went up to the red line...

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For some reason when the floor was installed, they cut the rear flange off where it meets the lower pillar section. So I'm re-creating this panel so I have something to spot weld to. Needed to seek the help from a professional for this one though.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52865105255_f6604469c6_b-1.jpg

Once I get these panels welded I'll resume my work on the wheel wells and rear floor sections. I can't wait for the metal work to be over...

Seems to be a common theme here, but I have a really exciting parts update! I had been searching all around with vendors and even used, but came across a few Terminator X Max kits for sale at Summit. I wasn't sure if it was true or not, but they showed 4 550-933 in stock, so I bought one. Was very surprised when this showed up a few days later!! It was everything I needed other than the wrong injectors for me, but I had a buddy who had an EV6 set and we were able to swap, so it was a win win for both of us.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52864880164_2bd7ffa93e_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52864136037_22c7976c72_b-1.jpg

Then I was on FB marketplace and found a guy locally who was parting out a wrecked 2011 CTS-V. He still had the fuel pump assembly and got that for a really good price! Only had 66k miles on it.

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I also was able to find a good used set of C5 Brake calipers with mounting brackets. They aren't in the best shape, but are good enough for what I need. I know the calipers are the same, but they are off of a real Z06, so they are factory powder coated red. I got a rebuild kit for them, Kore3 brackets, EBC Red pads, and will be ordering a new pair of rotors soon. I also picked up a pair of 66 Impala brake hubs which will give me a tapered roller bearing upgrade for my factory spindle. I'll need to turn the diameter down to work with the C5 rotors, but otherwise it's a very budget friendly big brake upgrade. Should work nicely with my Tesla Model S brake booster assembly too.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52864135557_b76d059f53_b-1.jpg

Hopefully I'll knock out some more metal work in the next few days. Only way to eat an elephant is one bite at a time...

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

Here's another tedious and boring metal working update. I continued on adding a flange to the rear floor plan section for whatever strange reason the previous person working on the car cut off. I got it trimmed down and fit up so that I could spot weld the new lower panel to it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52880861203_6d6ae760d0_b-1.jpg

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As I was test fitting the panel, I noticed something off about the rocker panel and as I hit it with the wire wheel I found another bad repair covered with body filler. That rusty piece was tack welded into place with no prep (weld through primer) and then smoothed over with body filler. Prime spot for rust to thrive...

[url=https://www.flickr.com/gp/98271343@N03/5B5X3782iQ]https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52880861078_5f76c9a556_b-1.jpg

Whipped up this cardboard template pretty quickly and then transferred it to steel. Lots of bending, trimming and tweaking before it fit really nice.

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Before I welded it in, the back of the panel was coated in weld through primer. Carefully tacked it all in and tapped it back into place as I was going.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52880575974_e34b60eceb_b-1.jpg

Then I decided it would be a good idea to get the flange and lower panel mocked up before I final welded the panel in place. It's always a good idea to do that so that you aren't surprised later on with bad news if it doesn't fit. It only took about 5 extra minutes, but could have saved me hours later down the road. I also coated both sides of the flange piece with the weld through primer.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52880415656_256191b0b6_b-1.jpg

Once it all fit together really nicely, I burned it all in and hit it with a flap disk. Once I'm done welding I'm going to go back through and coat the back sides of where I welded the panels with some oil based brush on paint. Where the rocker panel meets the panel I repaired will be addressed at another time. It's not perfect, but way better than before.

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Now, I can get back to the repair on the lower interior panel. I used my wire wheel to clean off all of the body filler that was left over so that I could make good clean welds on the new panels. I got busy welding and working along and didn't get any pictures of the progress. I discovered that there weren't as many spot welds as I would like on the braces under the floor pans as well as some undesirable gaps so I worked on locating them from the underside with self tapping screws, then drilling some holes in the sheet metal from the top.

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Now that the lower interior panel is repaired, I could get a good and true mock up of the panels. Everything is fitting together really well. Now I need to make some patches on the inner wheel wells and a small patch on the rear floor pan section that is missing.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52880575404_bf6aed22bc_b-1.jpg

Then I needed to remove the section all the way up to the window channel. The flange is pretty solid, but unfortunately I did find some rust that was through on the outer section of the window channel. I'll have to remove the rear windows to fix that panel.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52880415136_d13a419f43_b-1.jpg

Next task at hand was figuring out what to do about this little pass through panel that also acts as a brace for the outer front wheel house. That is what attaches the upper window channel to the outer wheel house. Mine were in pretty bad shape, and with some brand new front outer wheel houses, I wasn't going to re-use those crusty pieces. They are not reproduced, so I'm left to fabricate them.

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Not too bad for some hand tools and cardboard.

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Next up was getting the outer wheel houses prepped for installation. I got the ends sprayed with weld through primer, and the middle section sprayed with an etching primer.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52879833817_0fa447f867_b-1.jpg

That was as far as I got on Saturday. Some more parts came in and then I'll be able to start actually installing some of these panels!

First up was getting the outer wheel well seals. They need to be glued onto the outer wheel houses, and then can be installed once dried.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52880790415_c11488a1e0_b-1.jpg

I also received my 61-68 full sized drum hubs which is an upgrade for earlier cars to a tapered roller bearing. These will be used for when I upgrade to my big front brakes. They need to be turned down to accept the C5 rotors, and install new bearings/longer wheel studs.

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Also my buddy Ian helped me out big time and had an EV6 injector harness that he traded me for the EV1 harness that came with my Terminator X Max kit. After talking with him, he also had a Vaporworx fuel pump ring! Thanks again man.

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Lastly, I found a guy selling a brand new Holley Transmission harness a big discount since he wasn't able to use it. That is the last piece that I needed for my wiring, so I should be all good to go when it comes to that point.

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I need to keep my head down now and get some work done on cargo area of my car and let my wallet cool down. I should have all of the sheet metal I need now, so I just need to keep plugging away whenever I have a few minutes to do something. Really motivated to get this car back together.

Cheers,
Ryan

[OLDFLM]

Any thoughts on removing the divots in the outer wheel houses for more tire clearance?

And are you still going to minitub the rear by adding a couple of inches to the rear inner panels or is that no longer needed or nor longer the plan?

IMHO the minitubs may not be needed! I know from experience that Michelin has the PS4 in a 285/40/18 that's a great sized tire for the rear of our PT cars and rides like a Cadillac! Albeit you may need an 18x10 to run the 285 or a 295 out back... Falken still makes their 295/40/18 in the RT660 but it's much wider than the RT615 in the same size. For a Pro-Cruiser which is where I think you're going with the Nomad I can't recommend the PS4 enough!!

GREAT WORK btw!! I'm always excited to see your updates!

[ryeguy2006a]

Thank you sir! Yes, my plans have changed since I bought the car originally and decided to keep it simple with the stock wheel tubs. I would have had to modify the rear seat among other things and just wanted to make less work for myself. I found out that with the leaf springs relocated inboard, I can fit 295 or 305 since the 55 Nomad has a unique wheel opening. :smoke: That is plenty of tire for me, so that is the direction that I'm headed right now. The vision wheels that I have are 18x9 so I may look into that 285 PS4, although I'd really like to find a 28" tire for the rear.

[OLDFLM]

My 295/40/18 Falkens (200TW) were 27.4" inches tall if that helps... and I'd bet that the (better imo) PS4 (300TW) 285/40/18 on the 9" rim would get you very close to 28".

The PS4s on a 10" measure right at 27" and are 11lbs lighter per tire than the Falken RT660s FWIW!

Glad to hear that's your plan! Keep up the great work!

[jetfixrguy]

Hey Ryan, nice job so far, looks to be a lot of work! I'm excited to see the finished product!

[ryeguy2006a]

Hey Ryan, nice job so far, looks to be a lot of work! I'm excited to see the finished product! "Brian from FaceBook" :twothumbs

Thanks Brian! Great to hear from you again. You should definitely post up your Camaro builds here. I know people would love to see them. Especially that RS.

[ryeguy2006a]

I wanted to see how the pass through panels that I made fit with the outer wheel houses, and I'm happy that they were 95% great. The hole that I used was a tad higher than it should have been so I need to open up the bottom of the hole and it will not contact the cable at all. It held the front outer wheel house exactly where it needed to be so that is fantastic. I need to scrape off that under coating from the inner wheel house...

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https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52917166648_40765abacf_b-1.jpg

Glad those parts are fitting right. I need to replace the old seals with the new ones, and then I can do a final mock up before welding.

Next up was something I had been dreading... removing the driver's side window's to repair the rusty window channel. The good news is that most of the screws came right out and only fought with two stubborn screws.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52916710496_7d444077b0_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52917166538_9ecdd245dc_b-1.jpg

I could have just forgot that I saw these large rust holes, but I couldn't let it go.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52916860254_32076c01a1_b-1.jpg

The outer window trim requires that you remove the windows before you can remove the trim. Most of the screws came out easy with some PB Blaster and my impact drill, but the last two were too rusty. I was trying to drill the head of the one screw to just remove the trim then worry about the screw later, then my bit broke...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52916860174_770d916751_b-1.jpg

I was mad at first, but then realized that 1) it builds character/patina, and 2) the paint job is a solid 15 footer so it's not that big of a deal. I walked away and then came back and decided to try the old weld a nut to the top trick and I won with no damage to the trim.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52916710371_55ef243348_b-1.jpg

Once the trim was off I realized that the trim has never been off of the car since it was new! It was a little more crusty than I would have liked, but I'll treat the rust with something before the trim goes back on. It was also really cool to see the original paint for the car. My trim tag is missing so I didn't know for sure what the color was, but now I'm confident it was Ivory top, but not sure what shade of green that is. I think there were three that year.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52916124232_408244a9b2_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52916710306_b51942c61f_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52916860059_5385dbfacf_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52917094385_ebb08e74e8_b-1.jpg

Here's the bad spot.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52917094265_2f61c840af_b-1.jpg

I cut it out right at the corner so that I could retain as much of the original metal as I could and keep some of the intricate shapes in the metal.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52916710081_68d3e3c230_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52916710031_b2804c3b52_b-1.jpg

A metal brake would come in really handy during this stage, but instead I'm working with what I have. A 1/2" plate of steel, vice grips, and a hammer. Turned out pretty good and I got the width of the channel spot on. Mocked it up several times to get the angles right and the fitment spot on.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52916859789_1a2df8fede_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52916859734_9deb342cb7_b-1.jpg

I bought this really cool tool for filling in spot weld holes that worked great for a few of those large pits. Highly recommend this tool, it worked great.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52916710041_b731bf6158_b-1.jpg

I installed the inner wheel well for the first bit of welding so that I knew that it was in the right position and no surprises later. Ground with a flap disk and I was very pleased with that repair.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52916859689_74fd642fc1_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52916859639_54533ccbdd_b-1.jpg

Next up was a repairing this flange. There was a small triangular section missing from the flange. Quick little patch and it was good as new and hit it with some weld through primer.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52917094030_dbb20336cd_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52916859489_6881aa2273_b-1.jpg

Next was making an upper and lower patch for the wheel inner well. I used the new floor pan flange as a template for where the lower inner wheel well patch needed to be. Got busy working and didn't take pictures, but here's the final product.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52916859619_8fda419675_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52916123512_2318531a5c_b-1.jpg

I didn't get a picture of it, but I found the last piece of new metal that I needed to buy which was the gas tank brace. I found someone selling on eBay for almost $80 off, which was perfect timing for me. I also found a guy selling a Gen 6 cooling fan off of a 2017 SS Camaro for really cheap on a FB group. These fans are bad to the bone, 19" SPAL fan with an 850 Watt motor that is controlled by PWM. I think I saw somewhere that they are rated around 4k cfm. Best part is they are nearly a direct fit on a stock tri-five radiator support!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52917165738_7438b04572_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52916123617_822d806bd7_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52916709656_263f854122_b-1.jpg

Now that my window channel, floor pan flange and inner wheel house are both repaired, they are ready to install for good. I just need to drill some holes for spot welds, spray weld through primer and final weld the panels. Very exciting to get to this stage. I think once I get the driver's side wheel well all welded and back together, I may pull off the passenger's side windows and trim to treat that side as well. I'm this far I might as well. Plus I won't have to worry about hurting the windows with weld spatter.

Cheers,
Ryan

[KiwiStarChief]

Lots of nice work there. You are one clever guy!

[lsx70]

Man these repairs are looking great! Can’t wait to see what you do with the fan, they really are a wicked fan!

[FormTA]

Chasing the tin worm can get exhausting. Looks like you've almost got him! Keep at it! The drill bit incident really stinks, I dropped a jumper cable clamp on my TA fender and I almost cried... but hey, it's going to happen, especially if you use the car. Keep up the good work!

[ryeguy2006a]

Thanks guys! Yes, the drill bit was unfortunate, but I'm over it now. If it was on my Camaro, it would be a very different reaction haha

[andrewb70]

Nice score on that fan. Pay attention to the wire gauge on that fan. The Vintage Air instructions have excellent instructions about wiring the power side of that fan:

https://www.vintageair.com/custom/product-pop.php?pn=371253

Andrew

[ryeguy2006a]

Thanks Andrew, I'll remember that when the time comes to wire it up.

Here's the last piece that I needed to buy for my sheet metal adventures. It's the rear gas tank brace. I could have re-used the original one, but it would have been a shame to put an old rusty one in place with the new sheet metal.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52938380823_1faf53c54d_b-1.jpg

Coated the inside with weld through primer.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52937932881_8d6824a3bc_b-1.jpg

Next job was to get the passenger side floor pan flange repaired so that I can attach it to the wheel well. I decided to make this in two pieces to save myself a bunch of time with the shrinker/stretcher. I started with a cardboard template to get the curvature right for the floor piece, then transferred it to sheet metal for a final fitment. Once I was happy with that fitment, I laid down some painters tape to get the right curvature for the flange piece.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52938380678_a9663ff4ca_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52938380593_69d2944e85_b-1.jpg

Carefully pealed off the tape and transferred it to sheet metal. I always make my templates as accurate as I can, and cut my metal slightly larger to account for any variations.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52937932591_e791dcc829_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52938324525_250094e0da_b-1.jpg

Once I had my two pieces I got it all back together to start tacking it together for final welding. I would tack, trim, grind, and fit multiple times. I noticed at the top of the floor pan flange on the driver's side that there was a triangular indentation, so I did my best to replicate that.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52938082554_beba45f787_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52938324475_44830513ca_b-1.jpg

I'm very happy with how the final piece turned out, and glad that it fits really nicely as well.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52938082324_dc0b576478_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52938082209_1e744cb6d6_b-1.jpg

Driver's side wheel well is all ready for welding now. I also took one of the rear pieces that I had left over to see how the fitment was and looks like it will need a small filler panel, but otherwise fits very nice with the curve at the back.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52938380143_4b7dc8540b_b-1.jpg

Then my family and I decided to go up to NY to visit family, and brought some parts for my father-in-law to work on since he's been itching to work on my car ever since I got it. Figured it would be a great project to fit up the center cross brace and shock re-enforcement plates. Brought the weld through primer, and we got to work.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52937932011_2cd77de852_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52937931866_428f642247_b-1.jpg

We got the whole family involved! My wife, brother in law, sister in law and father in law all got to try out some spot welds on the panels. We dialed in the welder before hand, and gave them all some pieces to practice on and they all did surprisingly well. Cool that we all have a part in it now.

My wife getting some instruction from her Dad. Yes, before the comments come those are OSHA approved Birkenstocks.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52937335582_44b7e2519a_b-1.jpg

The final piece turned out really great with a tight fitment just like I wanted.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52937931731_22ca831956_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52938379338_7d3c4d834d_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52937335392_f67a8b7108_b-1.jpg

I was also able to borrow a tool from my grandpa that I didn't even realize that he had. I've been wanting a metal brake for a long time and this one is perfect as it bolts to the bench top and is 36" wide. I needed to build a zig zag piece for where the inner wheel well meets the tailgate opening. This was just the ticket, and worked great after several test pieces. They were actually much harder to make than they appear.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52938379383_859ff769bb_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52938082229_c533a00590_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52938379943_c23fb6d45d_b-1.jpg

It worked out great because my FIL got to use his new garage. He's just finalized everything on it and is on the hunt for a new project, so he got to use a lot of his new tools and I got a lot of progress done on my car. Everyone wins!

We were only there from Friday through Sunday, so when we got back yesterday when everyone was napping, I got my TIG welder all set up to try for the first time with all the right gas and equipment. I sharpened up my tungsten and had a full tank of 100% Argon. I tried a few spot welds at first to practice my initiations, then a few straight lines with no filler to get a feel for the torch. After I felt more comfortable, I started doing some straight lines with adding filler rod. Definitely a learning curve, but actually not as bad as I had made it out to be in my mind. Here's the best one that I was able to lay down this go around. It looks good to me other than the small divots? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52938081414_60e537e368_b-1.jpg

After I felt pretty confident with the coupons that I had, I attempted to go live action with my outer wheel house. I had a nice tight fit up and this run only took a small amount of filler at the end.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52937931376_111ea31ee0_b-1.jpg

These were my settings. I watched several youtube videos on what people are running for settings and this was just what I came up with based on several that I watched. Again, feel free to critique.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/05/52938691345_12dc753d7e_b-1.jpg

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

I feel like this weekend I made a huge step forward with the metal work. I've been working diligently this week and Sunday I was able to sit back and enjoy my work. Earlier in the week, I had a grinding session to finally knock down the welds on the inside and bottom side of the rear floor pans. I hate grinding on my back under a car... I've tried in the past to grind my butt welds flush with the panels, but for whatever reason I usually end up doing more harm than it's worth. So I just knocked them down because at the end of the day it's going to be covered in carpet. I spent more time on the bottom side since that will be more likely to be seen.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/06/52969420883_9a859738ee_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/06/52969420853_bfe1d5eda6_b-1.jpg

All patched up and ready to move onto the next step. I'm leaving that for now as I want to coat it with POR15.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/06/52969340690_bfe59b51e7_b-1.jpg

The wheel well is now mocked up for a final time and all surfaces have been sprayed with weld through primer. It was time to figure out the rear patchwork that is needed to modify a wagon wheel tub to fit a Nomad. Unfortunately the Nomad wheel tubs are not reproduced, so it's necessary to modify a wagon wheel tub to fit. I bought these a while ago, but the rear side panels that fit on either side of the spare tire well needed to be fit up. What I did was put a straight edge on them off of the car and marked where they were straight so that I could have a nice straight wheel tub.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/06/52969340555_38dcf305e4_b-1.jpg

I had to notch the panels on the end so that they sat on top of the rear brace.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/06/52969340620_0fa363ab78_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/06/52968969091_848d75bdfb_b-1.jpg

Now that those panels are where they need to be, I can build off of that plane. I know that the wheel wells will be covered with something eventually, but it was important to me to get them as good as I could. Now I can test if the panels I made in the metal brake.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/06/52968368012_f7e34fe08a_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/06/52968368017_469fb112ea_b-1.jpg

Next was getting an initial piece cut and mocked up to fill the hole.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/06/52969340380_cc4eb89bdf_b-1.jpg

Trimmed everything down closer and tighter to where they need to be.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/06/52969420568_35d53fe939_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/06/52969340355_9c88939e1b_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/06/52968968781_ab7febe1bb_b-1.jpg

There wasn't much to take pictures of, but it took a lot of time fitting and playing with the panels so that they were level, straight and fit on the same plane. My spot welds would sometimes shrink the metal too much and I had to cut and repeat the process. I was happy with the fitment and decided to finally spot weld the wheel well into the body. I still need to remove the cargo panel, drill spot weld holes and spray with weld through primer, so I stopped welding at the rear floor pan.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/06/52968968786_3bce3e1cd6_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/06/52969106049_fb68e67267_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/06/52969420323_978f7073cb_b-1.jpg

Now it's really starting to look like something. I slowly worked my way around the panels to keep the heat down and make sure that the panels weren't moving when I was welding. If they move off of the same plane from one another it will be very obvious. Once I worked my way around, I ground the welds down a little so that I could see the panel better and get a feel for the shape.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/06/52969420313_f03f137af8_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/06/52969105944_b2906520a7_b-1.jpg

Again, I skipped around didn't get any picture of the in between process, but I worked my way around and filled the gaps in. Kept my heat spaced out and kept feeling the panel with my bare hands. Even doing this, the panel moved around, but I kept experimenting as I was going. I would get a little tin canning, and would try to add more heat to the side that looked like it needed to be shrunk. I was surprised that it worked to significantly reduced the tin canning it had at one point. Also kept my grinding wheel moving. I used a 36 grit flap disk for the first pass and stayed moving. I read an article that sometimes it's actually the grinding after the welding that can cause the panels to warp. Then I swapped to a 120 grit flap disk and tried to smooth off the panel without taking off too much of the original panels and thinning them out. I coated all the bare metal in an etch primer followed by a few coats of satin black. I'm very pleased with how it all turned out, although the satin is more glossy than I was hoping for. May hit it with a flat black.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/06/52968968516_fed2f83c31_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/06/52969339945_e7bd10337c_b-1.jpg

This took way longer than I had initially thought, due to some surprise previous repairs that needed to be redone, but I'm happy with the results. I'm hoping that the second side is going to go much faster since it is in better shape than the driver's side. Once I'm done with the inner wheel wells, I'm moving towards installing the outer wheel wells.

Cheers,
​​​​​​​Ryan

[OLDFLM]

Looks AMAZING!!! Great work!

Is that curved transition at the back near the latch a factory piece or did you make that?

[ryeguy2006a]

I tried to keep as much of the original metal as I could and yes it's original. It helped me to keep the original shape of the wheel wells. Along with the pieces from the wheel wells I cut out.

[ryeguy2006a]

After a huge push to get that driver's side wheel well in place. I've been slowly just planning my next step to make sure that I'm not missing anything I'll regret after welding up the panels. Before I welded in the outer wheel house panels, I wanted to make sure that I prepped all the inner structure panels while I had access to them. I also wanted to get the metal under the trim treated to hopefully prevent the panels from getting any worse. I used an oil based paint that is similar to POR-15, but I think was made by Rustoleum.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/06/52987937567_ab27b86fa9_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/06/52988537716_c3225506b4_b-1.jpg

Now that this channel is repaired and prepped, I can work on reinstalling the glass and trim. I left that piece turquoise to remember the original color since the trim tag is missing on this car.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/06/52988537731_146242cdfe_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/06/52988677534_9a08b43563_b-1.jpg

Next was prepping the original outer wheel houses. They required a few patches and adding on the Nomad lower panels. They were ready for me to install new seals which I chose to both glue and rivet. While not original, they worked really well and should seal very nicely to the quarter panels. The rear outer wheel house is shown, but I added a seal for the front outer as well.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/06/52987937642_1200ea5394_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/06/52988537821_60ef8e94e2_b-1.jpg

One last test fit before I do a final weld up. Very happy with the fitment, and it will sit nice and flush with the front outer as well. Now I can pull them both, paint the top sides and final weld them in.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/06/52988537791_26e00d7e83_b-1.jpg

I'm not sure what this piece is called, but it's got a rubber bumper that stops the rear sliding glass. I re-created this little bracket and will get this installed after I get the window felts back in place. Original was in terrible condition, but I was able to get a good trace of it before it broke in half.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/06/52988993093_d0d21e7919_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/06/52988907050_bb94dc58ca_b-1.jpg

I started preparing the passenger side wheel house for installation. I got it all of the old under coating off of it, but still need to drill all my spot weld holes and grind down the flange where I'll need to weld on the body smooth. Hopefully I'll make a bunch more progress on that this week. Once I get both wheel wells installed, I can test fit my rear folding seat. I can't wait for that because I think that is one of the coolest parts of these old wagons.

Cheers,
​​​​​​​Ryan

[OLDFLM]

Great progress and great update as always!! I find it interesting that the outer wheel housings are square and not rounded...

[ryeguy2006a]

They definitely did things differently in the 50s haha.

[Steve68]

Ryan, just had to look at page 1 to see what it looked like before, and I saw your comment about the Blue Ridge Mountains, man I miss Virginia! even though I lived on the Eastern Shore the drive west was always a great time,

I like all the little patch panels you have fabbed up and welded in, nice work, keep working on it, I hope I'll get my 88' GT vert done before you do, what was a simple front end repair ended up being a complete front clip R&R......

[ryeguy2006a]

Really happy with the progress that I've made over the last few weeks. My big push really paid off. I left off with doing a last final test fit of the inner wheel house. I've had it on and off quite a few times, so I knew it was ready to go, but this time it was all prepped with weld through primer.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53020697292_08e5f2445e_b-1.jpg

Then I started to mock up the other pieces that needed to be trimmed and fit up to complete the patches. The first picture shows the difference between the angles of the Nomad vs all other wagons. The wheel wells are unique and need to be modified since no one makes reproduction pieces.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53020697282_9788f55781_b-1.jpg

Once I was happy with the initial trial fitment, I just started trimming the pieces to get them to come together the way I wanted. I kept a close eye on the driver's side to be sure they matched. Since I was splicing pieces the top piece wanted to dip down, so I kept my straight edge and made sure it was straight and level across the top.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53021666520_54388a02e0_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53021666470_2b304b0b63_b-1.jpg

The fitment is really good at this point with all of the panels. I have been holding off on welding in the center cargo panel until I got the passenger side all mocked up. It was time now to work my way down and start filling in the spot welds.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53021763468_ba3877ed3b_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53021442689_acb035ec8e_b-1.jpg

Once the cargo panel was done, I moved onto the wheel well.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53021763343_62ff0f1c3a_b-1.jpg

I skipped a lot of steps here, but over 3-4 days I worked my way around and welded in the upper patch panel. It was a little more tricky than the driver's side, but nothing too crazy. But I forgot to take any pictures during that time, so here's the finished wheel well. The repairs are very visible, but that was done on purpose because they are going to be covered, so I didn't take the time to make it perfectly smooth.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53021279206_167a8b8377_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53021442579_2381ba2334_b-1.jpg

So stoked to be to this point now. Lots more work than I had originally anticipated, but I'm very pleased with the results.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53021666245_58803ef9c0_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53021279126_f688d27a5f_b-1.jpg

After I finished up that wheel well I decided to pull out my engine and start looking at that. I've been telling myself that I had to wait to do anything other than sheet metal work until I was done. Well I'm pretty much done now with the rear of the car now, so I'm going to get things ready. I got the boys out early and they helped me power wash the 6.0 block after I got it stripped down to the bare block.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53024734355_33ec7ee2d4_b-1.jpg

It cleaned up really nicely and all the bearings looked great.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53024831253_fb3a5cbf81_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53024831143_8da4e5977c_b-1.jpg

Then yesterday I got curious what the spare tire well would look like. It needs a little repair where the spot welds were drilled out, but I sprayed it black and set it in place. I've been going back and forth on what to do with that area. Delete the spare tire and run a larger fuel tank, or run a wagon tank and keep the spare. Now that I see it in place, I'm confident that I want to keep the spare tire and modify the wagon tank for an in-tank pump.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53024343311_b8a6eaf224_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53024831118_afb167618b_b-1.jpg

I'm hoping that things will start to move a little quicker now that all of the heavy fabrication work is done. I still need to install the outer wheel houses on both sides, but they will move quickly since they are just spot welded in place. I'm also going to start plugging away at things like brakes and components to mock up the engine/transmission.

Cheers,
Ryan

[Motown 454]

It looks really nice, your doing a great job.

[ryeguy2006a]

Thanks man!


Didn't make a whole lot of progress this weekend, but moving forward none the less. I'd been on the fence about building the LS2 block, but at the end of the day I really wanted an aluminum gen4 5.3 engine. So I posted it for a few days on FB marketplace that I wanted to trade the bare block for a LC9 or similar. Some guy messaged me and said that he had a good shortblock that he pulled out of his car to go with a forged 5.7 and kept this as a spare. He sent me a video of it running and he wanted to go with something larger than the 5.7, so we swapped. Very happy with the trade. I am planning to add a turbo at some point so I'll pull the pistons and gap the rings. Probably .024/.026, and then reassemble. I kept the 6.0 rotating assembly, so if I find a good deal on an iron block, I always have the option to put together a forged piston short block. For now I'm just going to push it in the corner and get back to finishing the metal work.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53036335820_e6b06d15f9_b-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53035944156_ff99b895cf_b-1.jpg


Here's the finished window bracket. I think the only function this serves is a stop for the sliding side window. The original one was completely rusted, so I remade this one.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53035362617_dbb6036c39_b-1.jpg


I installed the new outer seals on the outer wheel houses and now that they are cured, I wanted to get them installed. I wasn't able to finish, but the driver's side is now mocked up and ready to weld. The passenger side rear outer wheel house still needs to have the seal installed, but should be able to get to that this week.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53036429213_d01e3ab14e_b-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53035943866_d77fd02daf_b-1.jpg


I got a little sidetracked by a treasure I found. I was cruising FB Marketplace and found where a guy was moving and had some stuff out by the curb for free. It was some sort of home brew setup that he had lost interest in and needed to get rid of it. I saw it and immediately thought that would work perfectly for the new welding cart that I have been wanting to build. I went to go check it out and grabbed it. It's made of a heavy square tubing and the dimensions are spot on for what I need. I'm going to modify the bars to shorten it, but I'll have more than enough materials to make exactly what I want. I removed all the brew stuff and I'm hoping to make a buck on it.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53036335685_4d3bf2c417_b-1.jpg


I started by adding some casters on the front to get it mobile, since it was never meant to move when brewing.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53036335645_3f38c0abd2_b-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53035362447_e3f067e603_b-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53036429203_eae8e5f0c0_b-1.jpg


That's as far as I got, but the plan is to make a holder for two tanks at the rear, middle will have some TIG Filler rod holders, tool box somewhere on the bottom and then a platform on the top for holding the welder. I'll add some hooks and clips for my helmet, hoses and cables. Very excited to get rid of the cheapy Harbor Freight unit that is very top heavy.


Hoping to get all of the welding done soon on the body and then I'll be able to re-install the side windows and trim.


Thanks,
Ryan

[rat_rod_russell]

Damn! She's cleaning up nicely from all the bondo and squirt foam you found in there the first time.

Here's some inspiration for you. A customer who just sent me these photos of his 55 Nomad project he's currently working on. I can't wait to see one of my frames under another killer wagon! I'm personally a big wagon fan.

208284

208283

[ryeguy2006a]

Thanks Russell! I can use all of the motivation that I can. I can't wait to get one of your frames under my car. It's definitely something I want to do within the next year or so. Priority one right now is getting it running and driving. I'd love to be able to drive the car while I'm welding up your frame on the other side.

[OLDFLM]

For those of us not in the know... what do Russell's frames look like and what are the advantages?

(Sorry, I'm a 2nd gen F-body guy and not a tri-five guy, but always interested in learning more about our hobby!)

[ryeguy2006a]

Russell is the owner of Nerd Rods, and he makes frames for tri-5's and that era Chevy trucks. His frames allow you to completely bolt on C4 front and rear suspension, as well as fully boxed and stiffened chassis. The biggest advantage for me, is that he offers a DIY option for his frame, where you can weld it yourself. His designs have a locking "puzzle piece" type of design where they lock together and a few disposable pieces that are self-jigging so it can only go together one way. He also offers an option for a 4 link and 9" rear. I love welding and that's probably where I'll hone in my TIG welding skills since there's a lot of welding to do.

[TANKMASTERJ]

I'm subscribed!

[ryeguy2006a]

It doesn't look like it in the pictures, but this weekend I took a huge step forward with progress getting done. Picking up right where I left off with the driver's side outer wheel house panels mocked up, I got right to welding them solid. I took my time to get the panel to fit nice and flush against the inner wheel well. I had to use any combination of my floor jack, self tapping screws and me pressing with the end of a hammer to get the spot welds flush.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53052501950_82329d8d3b_b-1.jpg

Once that was fully welded, I moved my attention to the passenger's side. I scuffed down and painted the inner structure to help prevent any future rust issues.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53052501875_d3ac7c2558_b-1.jpg

While I had the paint out, I also scuffed down and painted the rear floor pan section that I grafted in. Really glad to have this section done now.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53052695495_18ee19d7d9_b-1.jpg

I got busy, and didn't get any pictures, but I got the passenger side outer wheel houses mocked up and prepped for welding. Once I was happy with the fitment, I got everything fully welded.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53052501825_5d300567c8_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53051532097_b099d969a1_b-1.jpg

Now that these are done, the wheel houses are completely finished! I'm stoked to have gotten to this point. Just need a little paint and then move onto the spare tire well. This should be pretty straightforward, so it should move pretty quickly.

I started to move my attention to the fuel tank that I picked up from the junkyard. I got it really cheap and I'm going to use this for now. It had a few pinholes in it, but they have been repaired and hold water. I'm going to make a fuel pump recess panel and weld in a USCAR fuel pump ring to use some sort of in tank pump. The tank had a lot of varnish that took some time to get cleaned out, but is going to work just fine for me. Not the ideal tank, but given that I'll be deleting the spare tire well and ditching this tank when I run a Nerd Rods frame this will be a perfect temporary solution for me.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53052305884_5a3785e542_b-1.jpg

My biggest dilemma for this project is what fuel pump to run. The fuel tank, with the 2" recess will land right around 10.5" tall. My plan was to run a 5th gen Camaro SS tank, convert to fixed pressure and extend the height because the max is 7". But I'm not sure that is going to be my best solution. It's a long way to extend the height.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53051532087_fcb45a6e1f_b-1.jpg

I got sick of looking at the bubbling roofline, and finally took a grinder to it. I was pleasantly surprised with most of the roof. There were a few pinholes, but there must have just been some contamination when the roof was painted as most of it wasn't rusty.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53052599193_8872d2d0c9_b-1.jpg

But then I found some bad at the rear corner... Thankfully the other side looks to be just some thing in the paint and I'll recoat it and try to paint match the best I can. I found out that a mid 70s to 92ish Chevy G vans have front fenders that at the top have the exact same curvature as the rear of the wagons. So I'll track one down and use it as a donor. Should be a pretty quick patch and then I can get the roof back in shape.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53052501955_daee24d9e6_b-1.jpg

I'm going to be ordering some parts this week so I can get the rear seat mocked up as well as the engine and transmission. Will also try to work more on the spare tire well and possibly wrap up the rear cargo area.

Cheers,
Ryan

[OLDFLM]

As always, amazing work and a great update! Those wheel wells will look great with some undercoating or raptor liner!

I'm curious why you're keeping the spare tire well and not putting in a bigger tank since this is going to be a cruiser for the family?

[ryeguy2006a]

Thanks OLDFLM! Biggest reason is that I don't want to do anything too permanent now that I can't undo at a later date. The spare tire well will be spot riveted to the body to basically use what I already have to fill the hole at this point. In the next year or two when I pull the trigger on the Nerd Rods frame, I'll need to make or buy his custom tank so I don't want to buy the same parts twice. I'll have only my time and a few materials into the wagon tank. Plus the wagon tank is 17 gallon which is larger than the tank I had in my Camaro, and that was plenty of gas to get me back and forth to all the shows that I attended.

[OLDFLM]

Makes sense! FWIW the Rick's RestoMod tanks are very nice and affordable! I think mine was $400 for my Firebird and very flat on top with the ring for the modern GM fuel canister... just something to consider when the time comes.

[ryeguy2006a]

Progress slowed this week. I made a big push to get the wheel wells completely welded up and got a little burned out. I sprayed some rattle can paint on wheel wells to give them a finished look. I'm really happy with the end results. I'm going to spray some bedliner in there at some point, but wanted to look at the wheel wells in one color.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53068127044_4ee6cb33f3_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53067935896_ffd4858d00_b-1.jpg

That's all the work I've done on the body. I've been continuing the parts search since hunting for parts is always something that I enjoy. I've been keeping an eye out for a seat in decent shape that wasn't ridiculously priced and was able to finally track one done. I was finding rusty seat frames and people were asking $800 bucks! I ended up driving a little farther than I wanted, but the seat is overall in great shape and not rusty at all. Bonus is it's complete with the tracks and side shells. There are some obvious tears in the seat bottoms, but they sorta match the vibe of the car so they will work as is for now. Looks like someone put the cover right over the original seat covers. Not sure if it's right or wrong, but they appear to have done a decent job.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53068435893_f8f0d3f409_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53068325950_c817f6a236_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53068325915_57c60a9d1f_b-1.jpg

I couldn't wait to see what it felt like in the car so I installed it first thing when I got back. It fit like a glove in the car just like it should, and felt really good since I haven't really sat in the car since I bought it. I'm a taller guy, so I may need to eventually find some shorter seat tracks to lower the seat down some, but it feels great to finally have a seat.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53067350302_9176cb42dd_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53068126899_44391fb3c3_b-1.jpg

Like I always do, I asked the guy that I bought the seat from if he had any other parts, and he happened to have a set of new shocks that he installed but never used. He sold them to me cheap, which is great since I don't plan to keep this frame long. He also had a 57 wagon fuel tank, which was in way better shape than the one I was planning to use, and he gave me a great bundle package on everything.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53068126819_8f85f7bf1f_b-1.jpg

I also placed an order last week for some parts I need to get the motor mocked up, and the rear seat latches to get the rear seat mocked up. I also found a great deal on a new fuel pump that will fit the height of the wagon fuel tank. It's a new Delphi unit made for 09-13 Silverado's.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53067935636_8be0f729d6_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53068126764_e912e81538_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53068126679_4d4eac7b24_b-1.jpg

I couldn't wait to see what the rear seat looked like in the car so I quickly installed the rear seat latches and loosely installed the seats. I have the lower seat brackets just sitting on floor propping up the seat bottom for right now, but for just loosely mocking it up, everything fits great.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53067935531_496b9f0eb7_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53068435593_9329bb2181_b-1.jpg

It's interesting how bolting a few seats in came make the car feel so much more complete. I'm getting so excited to get this car back on the road. I've got a line on a pair of G20 Chevy Van fenders to make the repairs on the rear roof, and the 55-57 engine mounts from CPP should be delivered today. I can't wait to get the engine mocked up and see what, if any, modifications I'll need to make to get it all to fit properly.

Cheers,
​​​​​​​Ryan

[OLDFLM]

Looks AMAZING!! Any chance the original material under the black vinyl matches the back seat?

Are there any cheap seat cover kits that would work for your front and back seats? Mexican blankets? Scottish tartans?

And Just thinking out loud... I wonder if a Jeep Grand Cherokee or another brand retractable cargo cover would fit behind the back seat?

A newer truck console may fit in front of your front and rear seats too for convenience for the family...

LOVE this thread and look forward to your updates every week!!

[ryeguy2006a]

Thank you! I'm planning on doing something just like you are describing and using a Mexican blanket to cover up at least the seat bottom. I can do seat covers later on, but right now I just want to get it back together and drive it.

I like that idea for a front console. I've seen where guys build them, but hadn't thought about a truck console.

[ryeguy2006a]

I received my CPP engine mounts in the middle of last week and was dying to get the engine together for a test fit. The kit I bought came with the typical side mount SBC rubber engine mounts and I bought the set of SBC LS adapter plates to bolt it all together. Unfortunately, Holley doesn't make a kit like they did for my 1968 Camaro, so after a bunch of research, this setup seemed like the most common setup to work with the existing headers and pans.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53083881494_2dcf8e03c5_b-1.jpg

Step one for these engine mounts is to drill out two rivets on each side of the frame in order to bolt on these conversion mounts. Back in 55-57, they used a front mounted engine mount with no side mounted provisions. These mounts were adapted a long time ago when people wanted to swap newer SBC/BBC's into the cars for more performance.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53083881469_7885312982_b-1.jpg

I had to enlarge the holes slightly to 3/8" to be able to bolt up the mounts. I wanted to test fit the engine first, before I drilled the top holes. Once the final engine placement is confirmed to be good, I'll drill 2 holes from the top and bolt them down final. I may put a few welds on them as well for good measure.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53083122107_cea025e0c2_b-1.jpg

First step in the mock up phase was putting the pan I'm planning to run on the engine. I bolted it down with 4 bolts since it's just mock up. I got this pan for free from someone who was trying to get tie rod clearance on his application. I'll weld in some plates if this fits my application. If not, I'll keep it for another project.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53083881379_4e8511914e_b-1.jpg

Flipped it around and got the engine off of the stand. Ready to get it bolted to the 4L80e. No flexplate because again, just mock up.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53084182778_1ce3a128fb_b-1.jpg

Mated up the engine and trans and it went great. Just had to track down some bolts. I'll get all new bolts when I am ready for final installation.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53083881329_b3d6bbfb31_b-1.jpg

Wow, that trans is heavy! It was quite the task to lift the trans high enough to get over the grill. I had to lift it manually and spin it over the grill. I couldn't lift it any higher because the boom was hitting the hood. I also had to move the trans crossmember back about 10" from the Turbo350 position it was in. It's an aftermarket crossmember so that was a big plus. Here it was with the trans crossmember roughly on the mount, and the engine roughly in place. Unfortunately, there's an issue with the oil pan fitment...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53084182713_4e55d99bda_b-1.jpg

I thought that it would be close with the fitment of that pan, but looks like I won't have enough adjustability to move it to any closer to the firewall. So, looks like I'll be needing a new pan.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53084094160_31ba3da530_b-1.jpg

So with that information, I decided to pull the oil pan and continue with the mockup. Once the pan was out of the way, I was able to get the engine down into the engine stands and set to 3.8* down. Lots of clearance with the trans, and should bolt up to the trans crossmember. For now I'm propping it up with a jack stand.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53083866846_ae8e4542ac_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53084271450_79987a30a3_b-1.jpg

Now that the engine is in essentially the final spot, I'm going to start bolting on the heads, intake and manifolds to see how it's all going to fit. Pretty excited for that.

Cheers,
Ryan

[thumper877]

Looks like alot of room for headers and front runner systems

[David Sloan]

Looking good!

[ryeguy2006a]

No headers for me, the plan will be to bolt on a turbo at some point within the next year or so. That's why I'm gapping the rings, running 7 layer gaskets, head studs and adding a turbo drain when I get my oil pan. :fingersx:

Now that the engine is in place, I'm so excited to start bolting parts on for mock up. Went from a bare short block to a full engine pretty quickly. Everything will get a good cleaning before final install, but for now I can check fitments.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/08/53086372084_35efbd12f1_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/08/53086679423_8b11257ef0_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/08/53086371959_cd5d3726fb_b-1.jpg

I really wanted to get the cylinder heads and intake on to check the height of the intake since it's a tall truck intake. Shut the hood and there's miles of clearance. Next big question mark was the exhaust manifolds that I had. I bought a TBSS intake from a junk yard over 6 years ago for my Camaro, but ended up with a pair of shorty headers. Glad I hung onto this because it's a perfect fit! Not sure if the heat shield will fit too, but without it there's tons of clearance. Huge win!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/08/53086371769_df67dbb243_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/08/53085615922_2558aa73a0_b-1.jpg

Passenger side wasn't really a concern as most of the time with LS swaps there's a bunch of clearance here. This was no exception and I think the stock truck flanges will bolt up and work perfectly as well.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/08/53086679203_68ce132875_b-1.jpg

Then one other thing that was a question mark was the stock electric wiper motor. I was stoked that it fit without any issues and will have tons of clearance as well. The bump in the intake allows it to perfectly clear. I'm very happy that everything is fitting together so nicely.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/08/53086185801_691f7cef6a_b-1.jpg

Lots of pictures for not a whole lot of work, but thought it was worth an update. I'm starting to get distracted by the mechanical work as that is more fun to me than the metal work. I need to finish up the rear seat install and weld the seat brackets to the floor. Right now they are just sitting in place, but I need to center them and spot weld in their final places.

Cheers,
Ryan

[68Formula]

Awesome build, can't believe I missed it. Still trying to catch up on all the updates!

[ryeguy2006a]

Thanks! I'm having a lot of fun building this car.

Moving forward, I was able to get the transmission crossmember mocked up and it's going to work great with the right driveline angles. It does still need to be tilted up about a 1/2" more, but there is a lip in the tunnel that needs a little BFH work.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/08/53115789894_7abf5f40e0_b-1.jpg

I placed an order from Summit and got the rest of the bolts, gaskets and a new piston ring compressor to get the short block finished up. I'm going to be gapping the rings for boost because down the road I'll be adding a turbo, or possibly an LSA supercharger. I've got a buddy doing an LSA swap right now and it's making me want to put on on this car too...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/08/53115789849_1de23f938c_b-1.jpg

Since the engine is still mocked in the car, I was side tracked with my fuel system. My plan from the beginning was to use a stock fuel pump to have the most reliability, and my experience with the 10-15 Camaro SS fuel pump was fantastic. Vaporworx sells a conversion kit to allow them to run at a fixed 58 or 43 psi with a kit. So that was my plan, but after I decided to use the wagon fuel tank that pump is way too short. The CTSV and SS Camaro fuel pump assemblies only go to about 7.25" tall and my tank with a recess panel for the pump needs to be about 11" tall. After some thought, I decided that I'd buy an SS pump and build my own pump using other parts I have acquired. I've nicknamed this the "Frankenstein Pump" since it will be made using so many different parts. CTS-V fuel hat, Silverado rods/springs, SS Camaro fuel pump lower section and 4th gen Camaro fuel pressure regulator.

Now, before someone chimes in and says I should have just bought the PWM kit to control the fuel pump that did cross my mind. However, I've still got so many other parts to buy and that money could be used for other things right now and I already had the fixed pressure adapter. Plus I like a good challenge and if it keeps me on track with my budget, it's a win-win.

I did this several weeks ago, but I started off with the first wagon tank that I picked up for really cheap and used that as my test tank. I cut a hole in it where I new I wanted the fuel pump and made sure that this whole project would even be possible. It's a very tight spot where the fuel pump fits flush on the bottom of the tank, but it fits and that's what's most important. Time to collect parts.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53051532087_fcb45a6e1f_b-1.jpg

While I was figuring out what rods to use for when I extended the SS fuel pump, I came across a new Delphi pump out of a 09-13 Silverado for crazy cheap on eBay. It also came with a new green seal, so I picked that up for $35 bucks.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53068126679_4d4eac7b24_b-1.jpg

Also on eBay I found a wrecking yard selling a 13 SS fuel pump with 40k miles and they accepted my offer for $45 bucks. I now had all the parts for my "Frankenstein Pump".

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/08/53115789834_d232280c40_b-1.jpg

First step was to disassemble the two pumps. First up was the SS fuel pump. There is an inner assembly that is held in with some clips that had to be popped out to remove the clips for the top lid to come off.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/08/53116082303_cdaba849ee_b-1.jpg

After I robbed the rods from the Silverado pump, I did a quick test fit using the SS Camaro top fuel lid and it gave me the height that I needed at full compression. I bought a new 10mm corrugated hose a while ago because I was pretty sure I was going to be doing this project at some point. It fits perfectly for this application.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/08/53116082163_ef54e2e640_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/08/53114994452_b392b18b57_b-1.jpg

While I liked the SS fuel hat better, where the rods are held in was a press fit and too loose to fit the longer rods. I had a spare CTSV fuel hat from my Camaro and that was a perfect fit. And there were slots in the SS pump lower section for the rods to go since the rod spacing is different between the SS and CTSV.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/08/53115789554_bc2e838174_b-1.jpg

Now that it's all fitting together nicely, it's time to work on the fitment into the fuel tank. Glad that I had a spare tank to play with since I cut this one too far on the vertical side. Perfect for getting me measurements though.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/08/53116082053_933d80ed94_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/08/53116000225_619242a12f_b-1.jpg

I also wanted to make sure that there would be enough room for me to get a tool around the fuel pump ring.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/08/53114994092_c4080f6ff6_b-1.jpg

At this point, I'm completely satisfied with the fitment of this pump in the tank so I took some measurements off the test tank and transferred them to my good tank. I made sure that my cuts were way smaller than needed to be so that I could creep up on the final cut lines.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/08/53114994087_b4256298ed_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/08/53116081683_30c40a5dc6_b-1.jpg

I wanted to play around with some cardboard to see what the recess panel will look like and fit. Now because there was such a tight fit for where the fuel pump had to be placed, I wanted to make sure that the recess panel was centered as perfectly as I could get it. I build the recess panel template and used the inner inner diameter of the locking ring for my initial hole. With the template fitting snuggly on the top of the fuel pump hat I placed the pump in the exact spot it needed to be in the fuel tank. That centered up the template and allowed me to make some marks for my final cuts.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/08/53115999815_265390f43d_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/08/53115587866_457a12a358_b-1.jpg

Now that I confirmed the fuel pump is exactly where I wanted it, I cut the hole larger to test fit the actual fuel pump ring I'll be using and once again checked the fitment.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/08/53116081543_cdc1742786_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/08/53115999625_1e19304a99_b-1.jpg

I'm very pleased with the fitment and there should be plenty of clearance above the fuel pump. With it all in place, it was now time for the first test fit in the car.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/08/53115999640_c2bf3d430e_b-1.jpg

Huge fail!! But this is why I've come to realize that test fitting parts before a final weld or assembly is so important. While there is plenty of space above the fuel pump, there isn't anywhere for the fuel line to go.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/08/53114993847_c5b7baa4ee_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/08/53115999535_108e3bee6d_b-1.jpg

I marked where it needed to be for a fuel line to be, then pulled it out and started over. I had to make a new template because the old one wasn't long enough on the sides. trimmed the tank about 3/4" lower then reinstalled for a second test fit. It's perfect now and I'm very pleased.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/08/53114993682_c8afe39e1d_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/08/53116081358_bb90b98f7b_b-1.jpg

Miles of room above the fuel hat.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/08/53115788899_7e06fd238b_b-1.jpg

Here's the final mock up. One minor adjustment I'll need to do is shorten the rods just slightly because they are just a touch too long now that I had to lower the recess panel. That will be a very quick process, but here's the completed fuel pump. Next up will be transferring my template to metal and getting it welded in place.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/08/53115587581_30fef12387_b-1.jpg

My buddy Jonathan said that my fuel pump looks a lot like the tornado machine from Twister. So I added a mark for Dorothy IV haha

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/08/53114994182_3134dcbc96_b-1.jpg

I was also tinkering around with the seat bracket placement and think that I've nailed down the seat bottom, but need to finalize the location for the upper hinge brackets. I drilled the lower brackets with self tapping screws to tighten it to the floor and the seat flips up and down nicely. The upper will be more difficult because it needs to pivot at the right location to both hit the upper latches and lay flat and not too far forward in the down position.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/08/53116081808_b9b5ca62ba_b-1.jpg

I sharpened all my tig tungsten, so hopefully I'll get the recess panel built and welded in this week.

Cheers,
Ryan

[68Formula]

maybe I missed it, what happened with the L83 plans?

[ryeguy2006a]

It just came down to the budget honestly. I would need a special flexplate to adapt the L83 to the 4L80e (at the time the 6l80e controller wasn't out), and the Gen5 Terminator X kit is almost double what the gen3/4 kit costs. Plus there seems to be way more support for gen3/4 right now, especially when it comes to tuning. I'd like to get a gen5 engine at some point and try out the DI and VVT. Would make a really cool swap I think. I really lucked out doing some horse trading because from the get go, I really wanted an LC9 engine.

[ryeguy2006a]

Been busy working on the car, but have been sidetracked practicing my TIG welding. My plan is to weld the 304 SS fuel ring to my mild steel fuel recess panel and what a great opportunity to get better with the TIG. I first wanted to practice on some coupons and scrap pieces I had so that the finished product would be at least halfway decent. I practiced a while and then did a test run on the outside corner joints, and that's when I realized that I needed a lot more practice. Then I went down a bit of a rabbit hole and was practicing TIG in pretty much all my free time.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/08/53132283213_2fc6747dfd_b-1.jpg

While the weld is solid and won't leak, it needs a lot more attention to cleanliness, consistency and better pedal/filler control. Now that the corners were welded and the recess was built, I was able to confirm the pump will work like I need it to. I need to practice more with my TIG before I attempt the final weld on this piece.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/08/53132214505_bdf094b8e2_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/08/53132008409_e8de1eca10_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/08/53132214580_5cfe708870_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/08/53131205927_e6282c2fe9_b-1.jpg

Other than practicing my TIG welding, I did get the rear seat locations finalized. I thought the upper seat would be the easy part, but I was very wrong. It took way more effort than I realized to locate the lower hinges, since they need to match up with both the rear cargo surface and the lower seat mount. After lots of choice curse words and lots of extra holes in my newly welded in wheel wells, I found a location that I'm happy with. Now that it's final, I'll need to build some reinforcement plates for the hinges that will weld in from the inner wheel well.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/08/53131205617_2dc10a7b4d_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/08/53116081808_b9b5ca62ba_b-1.jpg

A few weeks ago I was talking to my father-in-law about how I was disappointed that my 302-2 oil pan didn't fit and that I needed to buy a 302-1 pan. Well a few days later a 302-1 pan showed up on my doorstep! What a nice surprise! Thanks Bern! Before I removed the motor to tear it down, I wanted to confirm that it would fit in the current location or if I'd need to adjust the engine mounts forward or back. Thankfully, I made a good guess when I installed the mounts and it all fits really well. 302-1 pan has all the clearance where I need it!

My boys are always in the garage helping me out. You can see his crocs in this picture.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/08/53147453051_7469a88615_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/08/53147947983_aebc565d40_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/08/53147947978_8c0ff11e49_b-1.jpg

Now that everything fits like it needs to, I pulled the motor/trans and got the engine torn down. I'm only pulling the pistons/rods so that I can gap the rings for when I add a turbo down the road. All the bearings looked good, so I'll reinstall them once carbon buildup is cleaned off the pistons and the ring gap is opened up. I'm planning on .030" on both top and second ring.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/08/53146875942_6d592d29c9_b-1.jpg

I deglazed the cylinder walls and restored the cross hatching. Now I'm ready to start cleaning up the pistons and gapping the rings one by one.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/08/53147452936_0c3bd22827_b-1.jpg

That's all for now. I'm hoping to get to a point this week where I'm happy with my welds so that I can weld up the modified fuel tank. Then I'll order the rest of my engine parts and get that put back together.

Cheers,
Ryan

[andrewb70]

That's a lot of progress. Keep it going!

Andrew

[ryeguy2006a]

After practicing on many coupons, I felt comfortable enough to start welding my Stainless ring to the mild steel fuel recess panel. Then I went to find the fuel pump ring and it was no place to be found. My youngest son (4 YO) loves being in the garage with me and will take things from my bench regularly. I asked him and he had taken it off my bench and he had no idea what I was talking about. Well after pulling my hair out for 15 mins looking, I finally found it. Now, I don't remember putting it on the power washer haha.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53166756983_96f564e122_b-1.jpg


Now that the ring was located it was time to weld. The welds were pretty ugly, but they are solid penetration and if anything maybe a touch too hot. I started by tacking the ring to the panel and did one more test fit before final welding.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53166756973_dfc491bd5b_b-1.jpg

After I confirmed that the recess was still were I wanted it to be in the tank, I flipped the recess over and welded everything from the bottom side. I figured that my welds will be much better hidden where no one can see them haha. I welded about 1.5" at a time and then moved to the other side of the ring and let it cool. One thing I read about stainless is that it has a tendency to warp when it's being welded. So I wanted to minimize that as much as I could. Once it cooled, I test fit another time just because.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53166756973_dfc491bd5b_b-1.jpg

I started on the front and rear of the tank and tacked them in a few spots. The open side did warp up slightly, but I was able to tack in the center and bring the sides down flush.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53166169509_62e255a5a6_b-1.jpg

The entire perimeter of the recess is now fully welded! What I love about TIG welding is that I was able to weld a lot of this panel with no filler wire, just melted it together with the existing materials. Very pleased with the results, but the real test was whether it leaked!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53166451698_125e451b48_b-1.jpg

I didn't have a good way to seal off all of the ports in the tank, so I tipped it on the side with a spare fuel hat I had and looked for any leaks. Unfortunately I had a pin hole leak in the fuel ring area. I wasn't sure how I was going to fix that, but after some thought, I taped up the front of the recess and filled with water up to the ring. Worked like a charm and I found the little pinhole from the inside. I was able to stuff my TIG torch into the tank and welded it from the bottom with a mirror. There was more than enough filler, so I just had to create a puddle around the pinhole to fill it. Retested and no leaks! Left it for about 15 mins and still dry as a bone. WIN!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53166395280_a5172ee95a_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53166163259_88bd8a167d_b-1.jpg

Once I confirmed no leaks, I got it all painted up and ready to install.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53165371292_cc500ee6fa_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53166160429_204526bd7c_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53166392670_4dc89b619b_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53165955736_8cc1a9e68c_b-1.jpg

Glad that project is behind me. Moving on, I wanted to get the rings gapped and reinstalled. While the pistons were out, I also cleaned them up with some Seafoam and a scotchbrite pad. Worked much better than purple power that I had used in the past. Then one by one I pulled the top and bottom rings off the pistons to first measure them. Most of them came in around .023 top and .025 second ring. Interesting because the guy I bought the motor from said they were gapped for N/A..., but I have a feeling that it may have been boosted at some point. Regardless, I gapped them to .028 top and .030 second ring. I did have to consult with my resident expert. Here he is explaining to the neighbor kid how to use the ring grinder haha. I built him a workbench last year and it works great for me too. I just have to move his tools off of it before I use it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53166476954_f613874f56_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53166707565_93efbaa822_b-1.jpg

After I confirmed I was doing it right, I reinstalled the pistons/rods and got them all torqued down.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53166390380_b13781abb6_b-1.jpg

I reinstalled the pan just to keep the dust out, but I'll need to pull it back off to install the oil pump, windage tray and pick up tube.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53165368112_a6bed9b6ba_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53166390405_645316843a_b-1.jpg

Overall pretty productive weekend. I ordered some engine parts that are supposed to be here today. Once those are here, I can get the cam installed and the heads back on once I clean those up. I'll also need to get the fenders pulled off so that I can paint the firewall before I put the motor back in.

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

After practicing on many coupons, I felt comfortable enough to start welding my Stainless ring to the mild steel fuel recess panel. Then I went to find the fuel pump ring and it was no place to be found. My youngest son (4 YO) loves being in the garage with me and will take things from my bench regularly. I asked him and he had taken it off my bench and he had no idea what I was talking about. Well after pulling my hair out for 15 mins looking, I finally found it. Now, I don't remember putting it on the power washer haha.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53166756983_96f564e122_b-1.jpg


Now that the ring was located it was time to weld. The welds were pretty ugly, but they are solid penetration and if anything maybe a touch too hot. I started by tacking the ring to the panel and did one more test fit before final welding.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53166756973_dfc491bd5b_b-1.jpg

After I confirmed that the recess was still were I wanted it to be in the tank, I flipped the recess over and welded everything from the bottom side. I figured that my welds will be much better hidden where no one can see them haha. I welded about 1.5" at a time and then moved to the other side of the ring and let it cool. One thing I read about stainless is that it has a tendency to warp when it's being welded. So I wanted to minimize that as much as I could. Once it cooled, I test fit another time just because.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53165379222_1630f8828a_b-1.jpg

I started on the front and rear of the tank and tacked them in a few spots. The open side did warp up slightly, but I was able to tack in the center and bring the sides down flush.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53166169509_62e255a5a6_b-1.jpg

The entire perimeter of the recess is now fully welded! What I love about TIG welding is that I was able to weld a lot of this panel with no filler wire, just melted it together with the existing materials. Very pleased with the results, but the real test was whether it leaked!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53166451698_125e451b48_b-1.jpg

I didn't have a good way to seal off all of the ports in the tank, so I tipped it on the side with a spare fuel hat I had and looked for any leaks. Unfortunately I had a pin hole leak in the fuel ring area. I wasn't sure how I was going to fix that, but after some thought, I taped up the front of the recess and filled with water up to the ring. Worked like a charm and I found the little pinhole from the inside. I was able to stuff my TIG torch into the tank and welded it from the bottom with a mirror. There was more than enough filler, so I just had to create a puddle around the pinhole to fill it. Retested and no leaks! Left it for about 15 mins and still dry as a bone. WIN!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53166395280_a5172ee95a_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53166163259_88bd8a167d_b-1.jpg

Once I confirmed no leaks, I got it all painted up and ready to install.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53165371292_cc500ee6fa_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53166160429_204526bd7c_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53166392670_4dc89b619b_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53165955736_8cc1a9e68c_b-1.jpg

Glad that project is behind me. Moving on, I wanted to get the rings gapped and reinstalled. While the pistons were out, I also cleaned them up with some Seafoam and a scotchbrite pad. Worked much better than purple power that I had used in the past. Then one by one I pulled the top and bottom rings off the pistons to first measure them. Most of them came in around .023 top and .025 second ring. Interesting because the guy I bought the motor from said they were gapped for N/A..., but I have a feeling that it may have been boosted at some point. Regardless, I gapped them to .028 top and .030 second ring. I did have to consult with my resident expert. Here he is explaining to the neighbor kid how to use the ring grinder haha. I built him a workbench last year and it works great for me too. I just have to move his tools off of it before I use it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53166476954_f613874f56_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53166707565_93efbaa822_b-1.jpg

After I confirmed I was doing it right, I reinstalled the pistons/rods and got them all torqued down.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53166390380_b13781abb6_b-1.jpg

I reinstalled the pan just to keep the dust out, but I'll need to pull it back off to install the oil pump, windage tray and pick up tube.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53165368112_a6bed9b6ba_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53166390405_645316843a_b-1.jpg

Overall pretty productive weekend. I ordered some engine parts that are supposed to be here today. Once those are here, I can get the cam installed and the heads back on once I clean those up. I'll also need to get the fenders pulled off so that I can paint the firewall before I put the motor back in.

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

Only thing left for the shortblock to be finished is flipping it over and doing a final torque on the rods. They all have one ugga right now :) Next up was getting the heads disassembled and inspected. Thankfully the valves were all straight and in great shape. The seats all looked great, but I lapped a few of them that had a little pitting on the exhaust valves. Overall very pleased with the condition. Once I got a bare head, I started to clean them up with some purple power.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53187307594_595ed5ab3f_b-1.jpg

The purple power did a great job on most of the grime, but inside the intake ports and a little around the valve in the combustion chamber was a thick tar like carbon build up. The purple power didn't do a good job of cleaning it. Then I tried some Seafoam, which did an ok job, but dissolved it quite slowly. I had a bottle of this stuff called LA Awesome that I had read about on a forum and picked it up a year and a half ago. I tried some of that in a spray bottle and WOW what a difference. The tar practically melted off when used with my brass scrub brush. LA on the left and purple on the right. I'm sold on the stuff.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53187438060_247b6cc6b1_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53187438025_0b77286a01_b-1.jpg

I cleaned up 90% of the carbon and called it good. It's going to get gummed back up so I'm not spending more time on it. Since I'm going budget on this build, I found a set of LS3 valve springs from my Camaro, and decided to use those. I also soaked the intake and exhaust valves to clean them up and the LA did a fantastic job of melting off the grime. It all went together pretty quickly.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53186526172_45ef0fd3c7_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53187609298_5d38ceb947_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53187437980_bb401029c7_b-1.jpg

I didn't get any pictures, but the driver's side head went together just as nicely and the heads are back together. I've got a set of ARP head bolts on the way and will hopefully get this engine back together this weekend. Since the engine is going to be done soon, it was time to address the firewall and get that prepped. At some point in it's life, someone painted the firewall a nice red color. It's nice, but not with a black car, so I pulled the fenders off to get it prepped for some satin black.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53187242821_ed5af1bd9a_b-1.jpg

I'm not spending a ton of time here, just scuffing it down and primed black.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53187437865_5eab583da7_b-1.jpg

There were a few pinholes that I welded shut at the top of the cowl. Hit with a flap disk and good as new, then a second coat of primer.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53187437840_8964aabfd4_b-1.jpg

I masked up the rest of the car and hit everything with a scotch brite pad for good adhesion.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53187437835_d50d9e1d34_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53187609183_eb1e3861dd_b-1.jpg

After it was all prepped, I sprayed with a light coat of SEM Trim Black, then went back with a medium-heavy coat. I'm very pleased with how it turned out for the amount of time I have in it. I have to keep reminding myself that I'm not doing a full on restoration. I just want to clean it up to be presentable with my main focus on getting it to be a functional driver. I put my Camaro up for the winter in 2021, and then sold it in 2022, so it's been almost two years without something cool to drive! Way too long.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53187609083_1885f975e0_b-1.jpg

Well now that I've got everything I need for my engine to run, I need to focus on my brakes. I placed an order with Summit earlier in the week and they got my parts to me in 2 days! Very quick. Wilwood proportional valve, drum brake 10 lb residual valve, rear differential brake hose, and Summit Brand line lock. Also have the remaining gaskets and seals for my engine.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53187437770_c092fa7917_b-1.jpg

I've also pulled out my Tesla Model S iBooster to see what it's going to take to get this mounted to my firewall. I'm likely going to go in the same direction Andrew did and modify the brackets I have to work.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53186526027_02a88515f1_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53187307429_c267f9d4a5_b-1.jpg

I'm getting very excited about this next stage in the project. My goal is to mount the engine/trans in place and get it all back together by the end of the weekend. I still need to clean up and paint the frame sections that are exposed, and get the side mounts bolted down for good. If I can get that done and lay out the Terminator X, I just might have a chance of firing the motor by the end of next week or next weekend!

Cheers,
Ryan

[andrewb70]

I like where this is going!

Andrew

[ryeguy2006a]

After looking at the brackets and thinking on it for a few nights and looking at Andrew's swap, I was going to mount the brackets to the booster. Then I'll figure out how to get them attached to the car. I drilled a new hole on each of the brackets to match the iBooster bolt pattern. With everything loosely tightened up, the brackets have enough room to bolt up. I think I'm going to attempt to bent the brackets slightly in each direction so that the rear bolt pattern matches the stock Bel-Air pattern. I just wanted to get it mounted up to see if I liked the look, or if it needs to be angled up.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53196299100_38b8c2f090_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53196465653_5ac499dbcd_b-1.jpg

I really like the way that it's fitting, but I think that it needs to be tilted up slightly. I'm not sure if I'll attempt to make my own brackets, or modify the ones that I have. I need to think on it more. Great news it that it lines up with the brake pedal perfectly!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53196465128_39c627b54c_b-1.jpg

As I usually do, I was checking FB marketplace and found a guy giving away a DFP delete pipe for a 2011 F250. I know that I wanted a 4" pipe for when I swap on the turbo, so this will work perfectly. It's 409 SS so it does have some slight surface rust, but I should be able to clean that up. Now I'll keep an eye out for a turbo log manifold and downpipe. If I can score a deal on them in the next month or so, I'll make turbo placeholder pipe and plumb it all together. That way when I'm ready I'll just swap out the "fake turbo" for a real one haha. No point in spending money for a full dual exhaust when I'll be replacing it in the short term.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53195912864_e55bca0cd4_b-1.jpg

I received the last bolts that I needed to assemble the engine, so I got back on that. Head bolts and lifter retainer bolts. Got a deal on a set of once torqued ARP head bolts from an engine that was disassembled before it ran.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53195912574_69ac373abc_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/09/53196464718_7e2e05ba16_b-1.jpg

My plan all along has been to put this engine together on a fairly tight budget, and I had been planning to install a stock LS1 cam that I picked up from a buddy. In the end I just couldn't do it. I started looking for some low lift cams and stumbled on the SDPC LS6 Powermax PLUS Cam. It works perfectly with the LS3 springs I have as it's a fairly low lift cam at .570" . It's a 220/222 on a 112 LSA. While this cam won't make the most HP out there, it was only $269 shipped and worked with springs that I already had. Should make a nice street cam.

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I started by installing the rear cover and gasket. I put a new main seal in and then got it centered on the crank. Once it was aligned, I torqued it all down and installed the flexplate. I'm using the 4L80e so I had to install a flexplate spacer with the appropriate ARP crank bolts. I had to get the engine off of the stand to get everything torqued, so I had my assistant give me a hand.

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Once the rear was buttoned up, I spun it around to install the front side of the engine. I made sure to clean up the cam really well and glad that I did, because the hollow core of the cam had a lot of trash in it. Although they are brand new, it's a good idea to always clean up and inspect new parts. I followed up with the cam retainer, damper, and sprocket with new ARP bolts.

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Next up was the oil pump. Now I've read mixed reviews on whether or not you need to center the oil pump on the crank, but given how easy it is to do, I feel like it's worth while. You basically install three shims around the drive which centers the housing and should make for a smoother operation. While I had it open, I put assembly lube on everything to hopefully help prime the engine faster/easier. Once the housing was torqued, I reinstalled the cover and torqued to 106 in/lbs.

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While I had the engine off of the stand, I took the opportunity to clean up the 4L80e. Used more of the LA Awesome and some scrub brushes. Cleaned up very quickly, and I'll spray it quickly with some black or aluminum color. I want to let it dry for a few days.

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Now here's where I hit a little snag. I have a dial indicator and figured it wouldn't take more than a few minutes to just check my cam end play. It seemed tighter than the other engines that I've assembled. When I got it set up and measured, it was measuring a .002" and then when I did a final torque on the cam bolts, it tightened up to .001". After a making a few calls to some buddies, I determined that it was too tight. I pulled the new cam retainer plate off and it was actually .003" thicker than the OEM piece that I removed. So given that the tolerances that I could find were .003" - .008", I think I found why it was too tight.

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So for now I'm at a stand still. I need to reach out to Summit and see what they will do for me. I feel that the parts are not the right tolerance, so something needs to be addressed. If I were to run the engine as is, I feel that it will "self-clearance" and cause me a lot of issues.

Hopefully I'll have an answer by the end of the week and can get the motor/trans bolted together and re-installed.

Cheers,
Ryan

[Jk918]

Couldn't you just put the stock retainer plate back on to obtain the clearance you need? Thanks for sharing the LA awesome cleaner, I was able to find it at the dollar store, put a couple of bottles in a tub to clean up parts for a 6.0 i am building. Seems to work great so far.

[ryeguy2006a]

I could reuse the plate, but the seal is completely flattened. If I reinstalled it, I run the risk of an internal oil leak which would cause lower oil pressures. I called Summit yesterday and they are sending me out a new one to try. If that one measures at the same as the currently installed piece, they will refund me and I'll credit it towards an AC Delco plate.

[ryeguy2006a]

I love building cars, but wow they can really put you on a roller coaster ride of emotions! I'll get more into that in a bit, but where I left off was making sure that my cam end play was right before I moved forward with the final torque specs. I assumed that the reason for the endplay being so tight was the cam retainer plate, so I called Summit and they promptly send me a new one and had that in less than two days! Thanks Summit! I quickly got that new one installed and took the measurements and again came up with .002" so I was quite bummed about that. So my next call (which should have been the first) was to Scoggin-Dickey who made the cam. I talked to the parts guy and asked him what they recommend for end play, and went back to talk to the guy who actually makes the cams! He came back and said that they recommend a .002-.004" of clearance on their cams, so I'm right where I need to be. What a huge relief, so thanks to both Summit and SDPC! So I figured that since Summit had sent me a second plate that I'd just put that new one back on a box and keep it for my next build. Well glad that I had it because when I went to install the first one that I bought, I got to the bottom bolt and hear a loud snap. I'd read this happening on a few of the reviews other people posted, well the bottom of the cam plate cracked in half! So it all worked out that I had a spare. I removed and replaced with the new one and now I have a short block!

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So glad that it spec'd out for me, so I quickly moved on to get my long block back together so that I could get it installed in the car. I have everything to get this engine to fire up and run, so I'm getting really excited now. I ran a thread cleaning bolt that I have in and out of all the threads to clean out the trash. Some of them had a lot of junk in them. I picked up the ARP head bolts and followed the instructions to a T, and then followed the torque spec sequences. Got the driver's side done, then moved to the passenger side. On the third pass torqueing the second to last head bolt, all of a sudden the bolt felt spongy and my heart sank. I removed the bolt and I saw some threads...

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I walked out of the garage and just went to bed. I tried searching for a solution and everyone seemed to say that a threadsert was the best repair when this happens. Was not thrilled to find that the kits were about $700 bucks! I started looking around for some used kits when I stumbled on a site called Huhn Solutions with a product called NS300L. It started off as an alternative to the Time Sert repairs for Northstar engines, and they developed a kit for LS engines. I really liked everything about the kit and it had really good reviews on other sites. I really liked that the insert was much stronger looking than the Time-Sert kits. His kits for LS included enough to do all the head bolts, but I really just wanted to repair the one with pulled threads. He said that he could put together a kit with 11 inserts, and knock some money off of the total cost. His kit is about half the cost of the Time-Sert kit so I ordered it.

Now that I had a solution, I just continued on and got the motor/trans ready to install. Knowing that I wanted to add a turbo down the road, I drilled/tapped the oil pan for a 1/2 NPT fitting and added the only fitting I had. I taped the barb closed.

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I'm sure I've seen others do the same thing, but I had to grind down the back side of the engine mount because it was not allowing the mount to sit flush with the setback plates.

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The last thing that I wanted to do before I reinstalled the motor/trans is to remove the tailshaft to understand why my yoke would only go into the trans about 2". When I removed it became clear that this sleeve was stopping it. After a little research this is simply a sleeve with a seal for a van specific transmission. I can just remove this and then I'll be able to run the yoke that I have.

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With that finalized, I bolted the engine and transmission together and got it reinstalled. It went in nice and smoothly with no damage to my new painted firewall. It fits in there really nicely, but there's still the fact that the engine is hurt and I need to get it repaired.

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I couldn't help myself and put the intake back on just to get some motivation.

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Will have another update on Part 2

[ryeguy2006a]

While I was waiting for the Huhn Solutions NS300L repair kit to come in, I decided to make some more progress on my iBooster swap. Just so happened that I was on FB Marketplace and saw a hydraulic press pop up. I had a sandblaster that is the same value, and thought maybe they would be interested in a trade. Turns out that they didn't want the blaster, but were interested in trading for a few 4x4 boards that I had! I love trading for random stuff haha. Came home with this little 12 ton unit, but it should do everything I need. I decided to try and bend the brackets I have to work with the iBooster bolt pattern. Worked perfectly!

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Once I got the engine back in and the brackets modified and in the right spot, I tried to install the coils. Unfortunately, the one plug wire was up against the iBooster. Luckily the bolt pattern on the booster is symmetrical, so I was able to flip it and gain the clearance. I sort of like this orientation better since it sort of looks like an experimental booster from the 50s haha. I have it mocked up right now with some nuts that are tilting it up a few degrees, so I still may need to go in and cut the bracket and weld to get the angle I'm happy with.

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I also was thinking about my fuel tank and getting that finalized. I was thinking that I'd need to get a new fuel sender, but thought I'd try the one that came with the tank I picked up. After some trial and error with testing the sender, I was able to get the wiring right and was able to bench test with my cluster. Works perfectly in the stock location, I just had to bend it about 20* to avoid the fuel pump assembly and tweak the float lever.

Empty:

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Half:

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Full:

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The guy from Huhn Solutions was great and he was able to get the repair kit right out to me. I ordered Friday about 5pm and it was at my door Monday afternoon! Very good news for me. The kit was very well packaged and came with excellent instructions with specific step by step for LS motors.

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Before I started, I made sure to tape up every part of the exposed engine because chips will get everywhere.

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First step was getting the alignment jig set up to drill the block. This was definitely the most scary part of the hole deal, but it was necessary if I wanted to get the bolt hole repaired. The jig comes with interchangeable spacers that are used in various steps of the process. This spacer is used to center the jig over the hole with an alignment pin, and also works to hold the drill bit at the perfect angle for a straight hole. I added a little sharpie mark around the jig to monitor if it moved at all.

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The drill bit is modified to a neutral tip to avoid drilling the hole deeper than the factory hole. this also ensure that all of the factory threads are removed.

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Once the hole was drilled out to the bottom, removed all of the chips. Then I removed the drill bit spacer for the spacer meant for the tap. This again provides a perfectly straight shot for the tap to ensure a nice straight cut. The kit also comes with two taps, one is a 3 flute made for the heavy cutting and a 4 flute that's more of a clean up tap and also cuts about 1/4" more threads.

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Once the tap got deep enough, I was able to remove the jig.

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Next up was a test fit of the insert. There is a provided "T" handle that fits into the little notches on the top of the threads that allows you to get it installed to the right depth. There is also a provided depth gauge with the correct specs for LS motors.

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Once I threaded the insert into the new hole, I set it to the right height, and then compared it to the measurements of the untouched holes and it was spot on. It was then time to remove the insert and make it permanent. I used some red thread locker and remeasured to ensure that it was at the same location as the test fit. After that the repair was complete and I had to wait for the thread locker to fully cure 1-2 hours.

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There really isn't anything for me to take a picture of, but I again went out last night and cleaned up all the threads in the block with my clean out bolt. Cleaned everything back up to reinstall the cylinder heads. I had also read a trick from Motortrend I believe that said to lightly sand the bottom of the washer that mates to the machined surface of the cylinder head. One of the issues that LS motors can have is that the machined surface of the washers and cylinder heads can actually spin while torqueing and can cause inaccurate measurements. So I tried that this time around and payed extra close attention to not having one bit of the ARP grease touch the machined surface of the head. I made it through all three stages of the torque specs with no issues! I was stoked that it was a perfect repair. Now I can focus on starting the wiring and fuel systems so that I can hear this beast come to life!

Cheers,
Ryan

[thumper877]

That is a awesome kit and I'd say worth the money. Glad u got it figured out. I have ocd when it comes to stuff like that and wouldn't of been able to sleep until it was fixed lol

[ryeguy2006a]

That is a awesome kit and I'd say worth the money. Glad u got it figured out. I have ocd when it comes to stuff like that and wouldn't of been able to sleep until it was fixed lol
I'm the exact same way which is why it happened Thursday night, and the repair was completed Monday night. :cheers:

[ryeguy2006a]

Mostly a parts update, but I'm very happy with some of the key pieces that I picked up. My family and I went back to NY to visit family and as I usually do, I was checking out a new area for parts. I found a guy selling a wagon rear bumper, and after talking to him a bit he ended up having 5 Nomads! He wasn't selling a lot of parts because he was in the process of restoring a 55 and 56 currently, but he was willing to sell me some decent tailgate bars and a rear bumper. The bumper isn't in the best shape, but it came with brackets and will look way better than no bumper at all.

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Then after a little elbow grease, they look pretty darn good! I bought all 7 pieces from him, but the 7th tailgate bar was in significantly worse condition and decided to wait for one in better shape to come along.

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So because the plan in the next year or so is to swap on a turbo, I am trying to plan ahead. I've been keeping my eyes out for some 4" sections of exhaust to build my exhaust. I found a guy selling a 4" downpipe from a 94-02 Cummins with the HX40 for really cheap.

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I also picked up a 2011 Impala gas pedal for my Terminator X Max since I'll be running DBW this time. It mounts nice and flat against the firewall, so it should be very easy to make a mount for it.

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I thought this was a pretty cool full circle moment. I've been building cars for a while and have hung onto parts thinking that I'll use them sometime down the road. Well the day has come that I'll be finally using these exhaust hanger mounts and heat wrap! I bought these sometime around 2009 when I was building my 1976 Trans Am. Pretty cool that I'll be able to use these in my current project.

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Lastly, I was finally able to get the engine back in the car and able to check on the tie rod clearance. Thankfully the car gods were on my side and there is plenty of clearance against the oil pan on both sides lock to lock. That's a huge relief since I wasn't 100% sure.

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I'm hoping that over the next few days the rest of my parts come in so that I can complete my exhaust. I'm going to start laying out the wiring and get the car ready to fire up. I can't wait to hear this car come to life!

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

My exhaust parts all came in and now I'm ready to get started on building the exhaust. First step was stepping back and looking at the freshly torqued long block. :)

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Next was installing the balancer bolt. This thing had to be torqued to 235 lb ft! Marked it to have a quick reference in the unlikely event it loosened.

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Then I did an initial test on my new passenger exhaust manifold! Unfortunately, it's going to have to wait for a while though until I can get the rest of the components to make the complete turbo kit.

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But that didn't stop me from test fitting some components on the car! So far, it looks as if the full 4" exhaust will fit in there nicely. Although the placement of the pipe isn't that close to where the turbo will actually be.

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I was very pleased with the test fit, so I decided to start cleaning up the casting flash. Not did the outside need to be cleaned up allow for better plug access, the inside needed to have the flash cleaned up in order to open up the ports. There were some that had flash closing the ports by 1/2" and almost cupping flow in the wrong direction.

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Not the greatest picture, but that was the flash inside one of the ports. I used my carbide bits to get the smoothest transitions that I could from the primary ports to the main section.

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I couldn't get very good picture of the cleaned up ports, but you get the idea. On the outside I knocked down all the flash and had to open up some spots for plug access and dipstick clearance.

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I also noticed that while the machining on the flange was really flat where it bolts to the head, the outside flange where the bolt sits was very uneven. I decided to do something about that and spot face the sections where the flange bolts sit. Here you can see just how much it was off.

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So glad that I found this Mill/Lathe a few months back.

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Once I got the manifold bolts spot faced, I was much happier with the fitment, longevity and bolts not loosening up. I cleaned it all up and sprayed with some high temp paint.

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While I was at it, I cleaned up the TBSS exhaust manifold I had for the driver's side.

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After playing around with the placement of the exhaust I came to the conclusion that without actually having the turbo mounted, I'd be shooting in the dark trying to figure out the placement. I'd probably have more work into reworking the downpipe to fit when I'm ready to swap to the turbo, that I'd be saving doing it now. So I'm putting that manifold on the parts shelf and will move forward with the truck exhaust manifolds.

I decided to try and fit up my engine accessories. After bolting on the truck accessories and water pump, I was trying to figure out how to use what parts I have. After playing around for a while, I figured out a way to use the truck accessories with a new Fbody belt I had deleting PS since my box is manual. I robbed a tensioner pulley, idler spacer and one washer in the hole for the PS pump. Worked perfectly! The belt spacing is all at the same level so it should work perfectly for me.

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Hoping to get the fuel tank installed this week and the fuel lines and wiring installed along with laying out the Terminator X Max harness.

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

This project is starting to wear me out, so I really need a pick me up. I decided to hold off on mocking up the turbo manifold and downpipe until I'm ready with the turbo that I plan to run. I think I'll end up with much less work down the road. I swapped it out for a stock truck manifold that I had on the shelf. I used some of the flanges from Summit and a basic universal 2.5" exhaust kit from eBay.

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Was very impressed by the symmetry of the packaging on this kit. The pipes are nice too but just mild steel.

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Then it was time to start bolting parts back on. Battery back on the firewall and started to layout some extra battery cables I've kept over the years to see what is going to work. Thankfully I found a few that will work perfectly for me.

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With that all mocked up, it was time to cut the giant hole in the firewall for the EFI components. I removed the intake and covered all the ports before I started drilling. I just removed them all for the picture. I also made sure to center the hole from the inside to make sure that it would clear everything under the dash too. I'm very happy with that position and need to track down a nice grommet for it.

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Then it was time to start getting an exhaust run so that I wasn't shooting flames out of the manifolds. I used the MIG to get a few tack welds on the flanges and the straight pipe, then pulled it off and finished the rest with my TIG. Trying to get better, so trying to get more seat time. I really need a proper welding table to do this at, but for now some jack stands worked ok. I'm starting to see some more consistency, but still need to move faster so have less heat.

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When those two connections were welded up, I reinstalled to mark where the O2 sensor will live. Found a nice spot, marked it, and removed to weld it all up.

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After this point, I was just busy bouncing around making connections, converting the Terminator X harness to LS3 MAP pigtail, tracking down wires (specifically a 12v switched that stayed on when cranking), making fuel lines, crimping wires, testing wires, and etc. With the goal being able to crank and fire the engine this weekend. I got so busy that I didn't take any pictures so these were taken this morning after I got my coffee.

I've used this method for every LS swap I've done. It allows me to check for leaks and wiring prior to installation.

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Very crudely wired everything up. Lot's of crazy wires all over, but it was either taped up or away from anything hot.

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All of my Terminator wiring spread out for easy access. You can also see my temporary mechanical oil pressure gauge.

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https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/53263323774_1d52e551c6_b-1.jpg

After a lot of playing around with my start up tune, I was able to get the right combination and the TPS wizard was successful. Turns out I never added the DBW component to my tune, which is pretty important. Confirmed fuel pressure, then gave it a few cranks. It sputtered a few times, then fired off. Kept a close eye on oil pressure and within 5 seconds it was fluttering around 25, and then after about 10 seconds had full 50 psi. Sweet! I couldn't run the car very long at all since there was no radiator and the torque converter was disconnected, but it was a huge win for my weekend!

https://youtu.be/nns-dMHKGbg

So happy that the motor is running and had great oil pressure. I gave it a few revs at the end, but the fuel maps were just a base map that Holley provided. I also used a 2.5bar LSA map sensor, but something must be off because it was reading 117 kpa key on engine off. I'm sure there are other things too, but I am very pleased given how little run time the car has. I need to get the radiator and transmission installed so I can get the engine up to operating temperature and let the learn clean up the VE table a bit.

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

It was a huge relief to know that the motor is running and that I could move on with getting everything else completed to take the maiden voyage! I'll be working on the brakes and wiring next. After inspecting what's left of my original wiring harness I came to the conclusion that I needed to upgrade. I've never used one of the harnesses from eBay but given the cost of one vs a Painless or AAW, I took a chance on this one.

I had heard that the wiring was cheap and not as thick of gauge, but I found that to be not true. I was actually impressed with all the gauge thicknesses and overall it was a great value. The terminals look a little on the thin side, but overall they do fit nicely and should work great. One thing that is a little frustrating is that while all the wires are labelled, some of the printing is very faint. Either faint or rather than being labelled every 12", it's maybe every 30". But, I was able to at least find a label for every wire, so it's a minor inconvenience.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/53279964513_2857327df1_b-1.jpg

Out with the old. It's really amazing that the cars ran on only a few fuses. The wires were all cracking and breaking when I went to remove them, so I'm happy that I made the choice to replace.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/53279680541_5257226093_b-1.jpg

Found a nice spot and used the existing hole to route the engine wires through.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/53280034559_8aa6853078_b-1.jpg

That's where the fun began. The wires are labelled, but some were very hard to find or hard to read. Once I got the harness bulkhead location locked in, I started to organize all of the wires and fed them to where they needed to go in groups. Gauges, head lights, etc.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/53279679831_8ba9b1da5b_b-1.jpg

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I've been wanting a vintage tach for the steering column, and my father in law just removed the one from his '56 Belair, so I put this on the column quick. That's just the look I want, but I'll rotate it down to the left about 45*.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/53284018822_db43ca1904_b-1.jpg

I was able to get the ignition wiring hooked up so that I could test out the circuits to confirm that it's all working as it should. One thing that I found out was that on the 55-56 ignition switches, the IGN-1 and IGN-2 activate at different positions on the key. #1 is hot with the key on, but #2 is off key on. Then they switch in the start position, so a common thing guys did back in the day when swapping to HEI is to jumper the two together. So that's my plan, but I'm not sure exactly how I want to accomplish that. With a jumper wire on the switch itself or just tie them both together further up in the wiring.

I jumped around during this phase, but I was simultaneously working on the bracket for swapping to the Tesla brake booster. I had to add a radius to the inside of the bracket for the booster to clear. Took the opportunity to chuck it into my mill and used a whole saw. Probably better ways to do that, but this worked perfectly and quickly.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/53280143795_0f63df7234_b-1.jpg

Now that the bracket is finalized, I added some gussets and TIG welded it all back together. I forgot to take a picture of it, but there wasn't much to write home about. I think I'd like to remake the bracket from scratch at some point, but for now it will work great. My next task was figuring out how to mount the Wilwood proportional valve and line lock kit. I came up with a pretty simple bracket that mounts to the brake MC where the prop valve is on the bottom and the line lock mounts to the side.

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I got to this point and got out my rivnut tool from Harbor Freight. Some things are great from that store and others aren't. This is basically a modified rivet tool that was reworked for installing rivnuts. It got worn out from the last time I used it and had so much slop in it that I wasn't able to get enough throw to compress the nut. So after some thought, I modified the pivot hole to give me more throw. Worked great and fully compresses the rivnuts.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/53285162848_d4fb4c1cd1_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/53285281204_aa69f8ed14_b-1.jpg

Once the rivnuts were installed, I was able to test fit it all together. I'm very happy with the layout and can't wait to get some lines on it and bolt it down. I'll be painting the blue anodized parts black, but for now it's all test fit in there.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/53285371605_845f5ebb04_b-1.jpg

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My next obstacle is to find some brake fittings that will work with the iBooster. They have M12x1 inverted flare fittings with 6mm lines and I need to adapt those to 3/8" with 3/16" lines. I bought a set of M12x1 fittings made for 3/16" lines, but I've heard that the flares may not be big enough to seal with the opening of the MC. I'm going to give it a shot since this would be the simplest way for me, but if it doesn't seal, I'll have to get some adapters or something. I also need to make a plan to finalize the booster rod, but I'm going to use the original '55 rod, and weld it to the nut that came with the booster. I'll also need to drill a new hole lower on the brake pedal to give a better throw angle. Much more to come.

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

Progress has been a little slow as I've been working on a few house projects. I think it was actually a good thing because I needed a little break from the car. I started too many projects at once and got a bit overwhelmed. Over the weekend I finally tackled something that had been bugging me, the body wasn't centered on the frame. Without a lift, I wasn't sure how I was going to accomplish this, but after overthinking it for so long, it was an easy solution. Loosen/remove the body bolts, jack the whole car up, then put some jack stands on the body, then lower it down to lift the body off the frame. Then I used some ratchet straps to pull the body in the direction that I needed it to be. After some careful measuring and shifting around, I was able to get it centered within 1/8". It ended up being that the rear of the car was shifted to the driver's side about 1/2"! After I moved it, the wheels and bumper fit so much better. No pictures as I was busy shifting the body and really wasn't much to see.

I really want the interior of the car to be very stock, so my plan has been to keep the stock steering column and connect it using the stock shift linkage. Someone down the line of owning my car converted my column to a floor shift by deleting the shift linkage, and welding the shifter hole shut. I tore apart a stock column I got from a junkyard, and while some components were good, most were very rusty at the lower section. Then when I was on the Tri-5 site, I saw a guy who was giving away a stock column and inner shift tube! I contacted him and he also had some other things like a shift lens, that he wasn't using. Thanks Craig!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/53318333906_bdd954fefd_b-1.jpg

I've also been conflicted on what to do with my brake booster brackets and finding an adapter for the M12 inverted flares. The bracket that I made, didn't turn out the way that I was hoping and I wasn't sure what I wanted to do. I sent a message to a guy from Retrofit Solutions who deals with the gen1 and gen2 iBooster installations and he had a pair of M12 to 3/8" adapters that use 3/16" lines! Not only that he had a few of the BBT iBooster adapters that bolt on, but have the standard GM brake booster bolt pattern! I couldn't wait to install the booster now that I had the right parts. I also ordered a pair of generic Summit Branded brake booster brackets which turned out to have Tuff Stuff stamped on the side.

Those BBT Adapters are really impressive and the CNC work is outstanding.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/53318688794_d3748ae920_b-1.jpg

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Here are the brake line adapters. Really nice pieces.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/53317465807_7679c64c42_b-1.jpg

Very pleased with how the install went. I shouldn't have wasted time making my own brackets when these made the job so much easier and turned out 10x nicer.

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https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/53318572108_b42ef5a2b6_b-1.jpg

Then I broke out my brake flaring tool. I bought this almost 2 years ago when I found it on eBay mislabeled and got it for a smoking deal. I didn't even have a need for it, but knew that I would at some point. The time has now come! It can flare a variety of different fittings, such as GM quick connect fuel lines, GM/Chrysler transmission lines with o-rings, and both inverted and bubble flare brake lines. Time to make some brake lines!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/53318758589_7bdd6ffd17_b-1.jpg

Does a really consistent job making the flares, especially with the soft NiCopp lines.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/53318642718_c220a3357d_b-1.jpg

Fuel lines

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/53318642708_8b769a5672_b-1.jpg

Transmission lines. I'll be using these when I make lines for my 4L80e.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/53318873260_8a2abcf4b5_b-1.jpg

It took me a while to think through how I wanted to connect all the lines together because the front port of the MC is actually the rear and vice versa. I'm really happy with how they turned out with nice swooping curves. I'll sweep the two front and one rear lines using the same method making a 180* then to their respective locations.

Can someone clarify for me what the consensus is for using sealant or no sealant on brake line fittings to the line lock? I've read some that say to use a brake line specific sealer, while other say that the tapered threads will seal without issue.

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Lastly I was able to find a transmission dipstick that will work for me. I had planned to use a stock one, but I was having a difficult time tracking one down. I found that Allstar made a LS to 4L80e dipstick so I picked that up. Part number 69119. I had to bent it just slightly forward to avoid hitting the firewall, but will be serviceable yet hidden under the battery tray, so I'm happy.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/53318803190_348fb723f9_b-1.jpg

I also ordered a 32 spline 1350 transmission yoke from Summit, and the appropriate adapter ujoint for my stock driveshaft. Once the brake lines are wrapped up, I can re-install the front clip and finish up the wiring. I'll also be working on the steering column shifter linkage and getting that connected to my transmission. If I can get that all done in the next few weeks, it's likely I may be taking the car up and down the block!

Cheers,
Ryan

[68400BIRD]

Great job on the brake lines. They look like they are supposed to be there.

[ryeguy2006a]

Hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving. I had quite a productive week. I wasn't able to get an update in last week, but have some great progress for today. One of my goals was to move the fuel tank off of the ground and get it bolted down under the car. Luckily, I haven't finalized the spare tire well so I didn't have to drop the rear end to get the fuel tank installed.

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After that was out of my way, I decided it was time to get the brake lines routed and installed. The rear line was sort of a pain because I didn't know how I wanted to have it routed. The factory was routed on the passenger side, but I didn't like the way I was going to have to run the lines. Instead, what I did was ran it down the driver's side along with the fuel lines with a dual clamp I bought. These worked great and tucked up very nicely. I started by using a new rear brake hose. When I removed the stock one, I noticed that the ID of the hose was completely sealed shut! Scary.

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I almost forgot, but I had to add in a residual valve for the rear drums. My intention is to upgrade to rear disk brakes at some point, so I created this little loop so that when I upgrade, I can simply remove this line.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/53359647548_2f8d4c9f0d_b-1.jpg

I had turned down the pair of Impala drum brake hubs I bought for the C5 brake swap a few months ago, but came to realized that the one side had a spun outer bearing race. That's not something I wanted to repair, so I found another good core and turned that down on my lathe. Pressed in the new bearing races and installed. Now it's back on all four wheels. I also used a pair of rear 97-04 Corvette brake hoses that came with a pair of calipers I bought for the front hoses. They fit perfectly where I wanted them to be and even came with little brackets to mount to my frame.

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I didn't get any pictures, but I rebuilt the brake calipers with new boots and seals. Then I topped off the calipers with a pair of EBC Red Stuff brake pads that I won for my Camaro a few years ago. Last thing that I need is a pair of dust covers for the hubs and the install will be complete.

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The last component to the brake swap was getting the brake pedal connected to the iBooster. I used the stock brake clevis and the threaded end that came with the booster and TIG welded them together. Turned out great with plenty of adjustability .

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/53358547667_9768426ba3_b-1.jpg

Hard to tell from the photo, but the booster rod has a nice flat and straight path.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/53359427996_80b5880db4_b-1.jpg

I topped off the MC with fresh fluid and did have a few leaks, but nothing that required more than tightening some lines a bit. That made for a great feeling. I still need to recruit my wife to help me bleed them, but I'll save that for a later time. For now it's back to a roller again.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/53358547587_c8df44032e_b-1.jpg

Thought this was just amazing. My 8 YO son came up to me a few nights ago and presented this to me. He had drawn this from a picture of my car and nailed the emblems and colors. It's official now!!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/53358547517_2f8d4c9f0d_b-1.jpg

Lastly, I finally pulled the steering column to see what was going on with the shifter linkage, or lack there of. I don't have any conclusion just yet on that project, but thought I'd post a picture of the original steering shaft. This goes directly from the steering box and all the way up to the steering wheel. People must have drove a little differently back then knowing that there was a literal spear pointed at your chest the whole time you were driving!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/53359886335_241f61c495_b-1.jpg

I have another update coming soon, which is huge. But I'll give it a little more time before I reveal.

Cheers,
​​​​​​​Ryan

[TheBandit]

You've been busy! Looking great man. Happy to see you got into a Nomad - a perfect family hotrod! Great you are able to apply all the things you learned on the Camaro and then some. Happy wrenching!

[Steve68]

Leaps and Bounds! lots of work!

[ryeguy2006a]

Thanks for the encouragement! Very excited to show my latest update although to some it may be a bit controversial. Before I bought my car, I was really hoping to find a Nomad with great patina but those cars are few and far between. I also never liked the solid black that my car was and have always wanted to paint the roof. A buddy of mine came across a car and sent it to me and I fell in love. It was a black car with a tan roof where the patina was showing through the original turquoise paint and I immediately fell in love. My car was originally a turquoise with a cream top, so for me I was sold on that combination as it was a perfect visualization of what my car could be. My father-in-law came down for Thanksgiving and he asked me what I wanted to do to my car and I said that I wanted to patina my car. Now a little background is that he just purchased a 56 Hardtop Bel-Air originally from Texas with some killer patina, but his was true and real. Given he was the resident patina expert, this was the perfect opportunity.

We started by wet sanding the whole hood hood and cleaning off any pine sap that was there when I bought the car. My boys love to help, so they were out there helping us prep for some paint.

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Once the area was prepped, we wiped it down and got to shooting the paint. We had to paint the "base" coat first, followed by the primer that would have been sprayed over when it was repainted. Then when you sand it down, it will show through properly. No real rhyme or reason for how you paint it since you really can't screw it up haha.

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Once the paint was dry, we attacked it with some more 600 and made sure to change the paper often to avoid scratches. This paint job won't fool anyone who's painted a car before, but if I can avoid scratches that are a dead giveaway that it isn't authentic.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/53358547137_e20c42df71_b-1.jpg

I didn't get many pictures during the last stage, but basically it was about 9pm in the last photo and I turned to my FIL and said that it would be really cool to see the roof painted. He said that he was going inside to be done for the night, but I told him that I was going to move forward with painting the roof. So I started sanding, then he just started taping up the car. Before we knew it, the almond color was being painted followed by some red oxide primer. Here's after we pealed back the tape.

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Well after we pealed off the tape, we thought hey, wouldn't it look great if the grill was on and the trim around it polished and installed? Hour or so later and here's what we had.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/53359885885_95dcf95038_b-1.jpg

The next day we woke up and got to taping up the trim again, but to paint the tops of the doors, quarters, emblems and the tailgate. Again, got busy and didn't take any photos, but here's the results.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/53359427481_da10b4367e_b-1.jpg

Yes I do have a patch panel for the rust hole and yes I am going to repair it. I'll just blend it in and it will disappear.

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Then we pushed it outside and I couldn't help it, but I reinstalled the rear window on the driver's side.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/53359427126_c7734d508e_b-1.jpg

With it outside, you can really get a full idea of what the car looks like. It honestly turned out better than I thought it was going to. It was hard to see the car inside of my small garage, but outside I think it looks fantastic. I just kept walking around it and staring. It was a total transformation and doesn't even look like the same car to me.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/53358546772_c38665b208_b-1.jpg

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And in case anyone was wondering, here are my paint supplies. I understand that my paintjob won't impress everyone, my goal for this car isn't to be perfect, but to drive it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/53359885570_3b92534d70_b-1.jpg

The paint looks way better now than it did before we started because there were many defects in the clear coat. It was peeling away in places and I don't believe they had the best adhesion or prep. The car needs a full paintjob, but I just don't want to spend that kind of time on it right now. I'd rather get my enjoyment behind the wheel and making memories with my family. Plus a huge bonus is I don't have to worry about parking lot dings! Just builds more character!

Hope you all had a great Thanksgiving!

Cheers,
Ryan

[TitanFox]

You've made a ton of progress! Wont be to long till its on the road. Love the project

[ryeguy2006a]

It's been a few weeks since an update, but I'm working on it a little bit here and there. The biggest thing was tracking down all of the parts for my steering column rebuild. I started by sanding down and painting the steering column, collar and turn signal housing. I love SEM Trim Black for dash parts like this column with the the satin black color being spot on for an OEM look.

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https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/12/53380359370_b0cc84aa9b_b-1.jpg

In the meantime, I was collecting parts for the steering column rebuild. Gotta love the 50s tech which included felt "bearings" for the inner shift column tube to ride in. A forum member hooked me up with the shift tube, outer column, and all the parts here to get my column back together. The shift lever is used, but in great shape.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/12/53378991872_ff637fcdb5_b-1.jpg

The shift lever in place with some fresh grease. I still need to install the shift gate, but is very close to being ready to install.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/12/53379917731_6999040706_b-1.jpg

Got excited and put everything back together and realized that there was a little clip that I was missing that hooks up to the gauge bezel for the gear shift indicator. But here's the rebuilt column.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/12/53378991842_f3ae5eee0d_b-1.jpg

It ended up being a blessing in disguise because when I went to test the turn signals, the switch that I installed wasn't working properly so I installed another one that I had. That one believe it or not was out of the car that was in a junkyard for 40 years and worked perfectly. After ordering a few different places and having to cancel a few orders I was able to track one down. I was at a stand still because I had to install this before I could get the column reinstalled for good.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/12/53407598922_31ed262976_b-1.jpg

It fits onto the inner shift tube as shown here. That is connected to the shift indicator on the dash and is pulled down by a little spring clip. It's a very basic but creative method. I'll get more pictures when the gauges go back together.

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While I was waiting for parts, I decided to pull apart and assemble a gauge cluster with the best components that I had. My father-in-law was getting a new gauge cluster so he gave me his old one. I used my 55 speedometer and his 56 electronic temp sensor and my 55 fuel gauge. 55 was unique that they used some sort of mechanical gauge with a tube that went directly to the engine. Since the 56 was a direct swap and is electronic, it will work really well with the 3 wire LS temp sensor.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/12/53380090293_2f7fe8e2b8_b-1.jpg

I realized after I took this picture that I had a revised indicator lens for a modern gear selection, PRNDL rather than the outdated Powerglide pattern with PND1R.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/12/53379917636_6d5b6f8a94_b-1.jpg

I also had trouble tracking down the original key and decided to take matters into my own hands. The drill method. The only way to get the lock cylinder out is to drill it out enough to release the pin that holds it in. I slowly drilled and checked and it finally popped out and my new lock set could be installed.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/12/53408960055_f25d27f504_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/12/53408700313_37c568bf84_b-1.jpg

Another project I've been putting off is what to do about my DBW pedal and how I wanted to attach it. I came across a nice bracket made by CPP, but it's only for Corvettes and mounts quite a bit differently than the Impala pedal that I picked up. But what I did like was how the bracket attached to the firewall using the existing hardware where the stock pedal bolts up. After debating on buying the piece and then modifying it, I got an idea. Try to print the picture to scale and then transfer it to steel. Thankfully CPP's image was to scale which made it easy to transfer to a thin gauge piece of steel I had. Once I got the angles right I was able to trim off the pieces I didn't need and figured out where I needed to add. Then transferred that to a 1/4" plate I had which fit up perfectly! Very pleased with the results. Only thing left is to add some longer bolts where it bolts up stock, and add a block off plate and nuts to the other side. Then it's sealed from the elements.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/12/53408835448_8b72bc533c_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/12/53408700198_139b3051fa_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/12/53407599052_63204855ce_b-1.jpg

Right now, I'm in the process of converting the column wiring to the 69-90's turn signal wiring so that when I am ready, I can just swap out the stock column for a tilt/collapsible unit. One thing that I noticed is that while the cheap harness had the correct style terminals for that style turn signal connector, they weren't quite right. The terminal on the left has the same width the entire end, while the correct terminal tapers in to properly match where the connector tapers in. As is, they aren't making a good connection and the signals were either making an intermittent connection or none at all. Just something to look out for if you go with that harness. Thankfully I had some from another project.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/12/53408959745_ee5611201e_b-1.jpg

I'm hoping to narrow down the list of things that are needed so that I can start buttoning up the wiring over the next few weeks.

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

Happy New Year! I'm starting to get really excited about getting this car back together now and running. I hit quite a snag working on the steering column in this car and when you combine it with waiting on parts that I didn't know that I needed, it feels like that's all I've been working on. I ordered a new turn signal kit from AAW to cut out and replaced all of the terminals from the last update with the tapered ones. That fixed the issues that I was having with inconsistent connections. Then on the column I updated the 1955 turn signal wiring with the 69+ wiring that most newer columns have. Then after all of that, I was still getting inconsistent turn signals and came to the conclusion that it was the turn signal switch. I've held off on buying a new one because the short term plan is to replace the column with a tilt unit. It's a real big PITA to install this switch because of the way that the shift collar installs until I found out the trick. I thought this whole time that you had to install the collar first, then feed the wires through a tiny hole that was at a weird angle, but with the new wiring that's glued together flat you can simply slip the collar over the wiring. That made things soo much easier.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53437940424_3b5671ceac_b-1.jpg

The bearing was in good shape for the upper column, but the horn wire that is soldered to the side was brittle. I re-soldered a new wire in the stock place and it was good as new. I used the updated color combination rather than the tan from the old GM color codes.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53436695277_c973dedd78_b-1.jpg

First you need to feed all the wires through the collar, then you can feed them into the column. (Note, I found out shortly after this picture that I needed to do the same thing with the horn wire).

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53437757458_ece414baa0_b-1.jpg

Then carefully install the collar onto the shift tube and slowly slip it over the signal wiring.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53437621921_ebbe8f7ba2_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53437940054_350718af76_b-1.jpg

Once the collar is slipped over the wires, you can reassemble the signal housing and button it all up. I didn't get a picture, but it looks the same as the first 5 times I assembled it. I also had a heck of a time finding a 12-24 machine screw for the shift detent at the bottom of the column. Ended up going to a hardware store and just cut down a screw. Not pretty, but it worked! Once the new signal switch was installed I put it back in the car and tested the lights. No surprise, but they all functioned 100% with no glitchy wiring.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53437940419_aede899f5a_b-1.jpg

I ordered a new 1955 Chevy Wagon fuel filler a while ago because I wasn't able to find a used one. I didn't think they would be hard to find, but I guess since it was a one year filler tube most people didn't hang onto the wagon stuff when parting out. Anyway, after I installed it, I realized that I'm missing the little bracket that the filler tube bolts to. I put a call out to guys on a FB page and some guy reached out saying that he was mini-tubbing his wagon and would be willing to cut it off for me. Not only that, he wasn't going to use the filler tube either. He ended up selling me everything for a fantastic price considering it was being shipped across the country. He had the tube, gas cap, bracket and even the original screws!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53438039365_04c45dc076_b-1.jpg

I couldn't believe just how good of condition that bracket was and I love using original metal when I can.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53437940309_ca890c071d_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53436695262_fce9043666_b-1.jpg

Next up is going to be reinstalling the steering column and getting to work on the shift linkage. Once that's in place, I can work on installing the driver's side exhaust from the manifold back. I forgot that I pulled off the transmission tailshaft housing, so I need to pull that back off and apply some silicone. Once I have a shifter, exhaust, little wiring buttoned up I can bleed the brakes and maybe go on a maiden voyage! Although now that I'm writing this all down I have a lot of work to do haha.

Cheers,
Ryan

[JPnTX]

Nice install! Anxious to hear your driving impressions.

[ryeguy2006a]

Seems like a very small update, but I overcame a large obstacle for my project. I was finally able to get the steering column installed back in the car! It took forever as I kept coming across parts that either failed or things that needed to be installed prior to the installation of the column itself. First up was this felt seal and spring that no one seemed to have in stock.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53454051959_41a59e8e34_b-1.jpg

Once I had that on I started thinking about what else I needed to have installed prior to the column going in. I knew the next challenge was to figure out how the column shifter was going to work with the transmission shift linkage. Best plan of action seemed to be using some sort of rod end and a long rod. I started looking at all of the options our there for connecting to the stock shifter, and didn't like what I was finding. What I wanted was to have a bolt with a 1/2" shoulder to fill the stock shifter, but with a 5/16" threaded end for the rod end. Couldn't find what I wanted, so I made it!

Chucked it into my lathe and got to work.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53454051904_7e584eaa5f_b-1.jpg

Compared to what I started with.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53452809367_d8d74bf6a1_b-1.jpg

Here's the bolt with the right length for to give me enough threads. After that was trimmed down, I cut off the end and tapped it with 5/16-24 die.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53453861058_75e391caeb_b-1.jpg

Had a little oops with the die getting a bit off center, but ended up being ok because I cut the shoulder a bit too much. Left is my happy little mistake and right is the finished product. Pretty happy with the outcome.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53452809287_8014063962_b-1.jpg

Here's how it will connect to the stock shift linkage. This was just a rod end I had on hand, but I'll be ordering a new one.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53454150720_e2aae3b5bc_b-1.jpg

Now that I'm happy with how the rod end attaches to the shifter, I felt good enough to install the steering column for good. Used new hardware on the lower clamp and took my time getting the column fit up with the steering wheel. I just popped it off for now though because it's easier to work in the car without that giant wheel in the way.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53453860908_6f47c00077_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53452809092_7366a718bd_b-1.jpg

With the column back in the car, I started to turn my attention back to the wiring. The universal harness came pre-wired for oil, water and various other sensors or 12v+ accessories, but I'm taking all of that data from Terminator X so I won't be using them. However, I thought the car may not always have an LS engine so I'd just keep those wires in the harness and seal them off. I used some of the heat shrink with glue to seal off both ends of the wires so they can be easily terminated in the future, but are completely sealed in the meantime. Sorry for the blurry photo, it was late.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53453734951_09b8cbd341_b-1.jpg

It was late last night in the garage and decided that I didn't want to look at the ugly DBW Impala gas pedal and did something about it. I LOVE it and can't wait to drive it with this pedal. I've had this cover for about 12 years now and finally found the right car to install it on!!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53453860903_70d2baab7a_b-1.jpg

I need to get the exhaust routed for the driver's side before I can figure out the shift linkage. I believe the linkage will be much easier to move/change than routing the exhaust piping. Next up is mounting the ECU and finalizing the rest of the wiring on the car.

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

Last week I was tinkering around with the exhaust fitment and how I wanted it to route around everything. I realized that this project needed me to have a 3-4 solid hours to knock it out. I convinced my wife to let me do it Friday night after work so I could just knock it out. Very glad I did, because it's hard to do after the kiddos go to bed when I need to use the grinder. My goal was to make a solid good flowing exhaust, but keeping in mind that it's temporary. I made it from 2.5" mandrel bent mild steel and opted to MIG weld it(mainly because I was out of Argon). I got working along and forgot to take pictures along the way, but I started with some Summit racing Truck flanges then into the two 45* pieces from my universal kit. From there I did my best to get the pipes level with the frame with the straight pieces. Passenger side is where I chose to add the Oxygen sensor, for no other reason than it's less cluttered on that side. I decided to keep things simple with a Y pipe and take a stab at fabricating a 2.5" to 3" merge section. So here's where I remembered to take some pictures. I kept the pipes tucked up above or level with the frame and wrapped the driver's side around between the trans mount and the transmission tailshaft.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53467826451_541c8abd0c_b-1.jpg

Once that was cut, I wanted to mock up the rest of the driver's side to see how it would match up. Once I was happy with how it was turning out I would tack weld a section, and remove the whole pipe to fully weld. That way I the pipe could warp slightly and everything would still line up in the end.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53468147749_cd480bb0ff_b-1.jpg

I worked my way back towards the merge, and got a V-band clamp welded together so that either pipe is serviceable if needed. Once that was done, I was able to get the slip section of the pipe welded tight and marked the driver's pipe so that I could trim off that section for a smooth merge.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53466921022_dc13edd59e_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53467829506_5da6bbe97a_b-1.jpg

Once that slip section was welded on the driver's side and the section was sliced out of the driver's side, I got the merge fit into place and tacked.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53467962913_a257664d56_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53468147654_37168e0b84_b-1.jpg

I then removed the pipe and welded all the way around except for the last 2" of the pipe. Then through a combination of hammering and my bench vice I squeezed the pipe into shape using a short section of 3" pipe. It took me a while to slowly shape and get the right fitment for a nice butt weld, but I'm quite happy with the outcome. The only thing I wished I would have done differently is TIG welded, but I was out of Argon and just wanted to get this part done. MIG just left a lot of spatter, which was probably my fault. Should have adjusted the settings, but I like the MIG a bit on the hot side.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53468147629_8aee29f916_b-1.jpg

Now that the major exhaust fabrication was done, I test fit the muffler I'll be running. It's a Walker Quietflow 21054 stainless muffler with a single in single out 3". It's probably going to rob a bit of HP compared to some of the all out performance mufflers, but all the reviews I read said it was a notch or two above a stock muffler with no highway drone and quiet cabin. Exactly what I'm looking for. I made sure to test fit the muffler with the short 3" exhaust piece before final welding on the merge to make sure it tucked up. It's a beautiful thing when a plan comes together. The exhaust tucks up so nicely.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53468147549_b5d8f45bb0_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53467826166_2dd5b8d4b9_b-1.jpg

Also have plenty of room to service the transmission if needed.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53467826186_169c02e700_b-1.jpg

I've been putting off the exhaust for a while so it feels good to have the majority of it together. I still need to pull it back apart to knock off the spatter and spray it with some sort of high temp paint to help the mild steel from rusting too quickly. My short term plan is also to run a pipe out the passenger side right before the rear tire. I also want to add a hanger right before and after the muffler. Once those are installed, I'm calling the exhaust done. Next on my list are a combination of shift linkage, radiator install and wiring. I'm working on how to mount the ECU now and hopefully can finish that so I can wrap up the wiring. Not sure if it's possible, but there is a local Cars and Coffee on 2/10 that I'm going to shoot for.

Cheers,
Ryan

[OLDFLM]

Tight work! Is there a reason why you didn't run a dual exhaust?

[ryeguy2006a]

Thank you! Really the biggest reason is I think it will be quieter than duals. My Camaro was nice, but no matter what I did with the dual exhaust it was loud.

[OLDFLM]

Makes sense then and I think you chose the correct muffler for what you're after... it's all about the "volume/size" if you want quiet as generally a bigger/longer muffler will be quieter.

My car was "racecar" loud with 3" pipes and 3" straight through 14" mufflers (RacePros) and I tried 3" with 14" Dynomax mufflers but still too loud.

The ticket for my car was a transverse X-pipe (due to the torque arm) and a switch to 2.5" pipes with 16" Dynomax mufflers... it's all stainless/TIG'd and sounds amazing!

Quiet-ish muscle car burble at idle, no drone while driving... can hear a passenger talking now without yelling! Haha But when you punch it THE BEAST IS UNLEASHED!

Not to detract from your thread or what you've already done with your exhaust but I thought you & others might find this interesting:

Exhaust (pontiacstreetperformance.com) (https://www.pontiacstreetperformance.com/psp/exhaust.html)

Keep up the great work and tell your bride we all thank her for the weekly updates!

[ryeguy2006a]

Well the good thing is I'm using clamps for the mufflers, so if I don't like it I can easily change. The dimensions of this muffler are quite large. It's a 24" case and 9.75" wide! Just really want to enjoy cruising with a slight rumble. I should have the ECU mount finished this week and then I can finalize all of the wiring. Once that is back together I can fire up the engine and see what it sounds like!

[ryeguy2006a]

Now that the major exhaust fabrication is nearly wrapped up, I wanted to move my attention to the ECU and where I wanted to mount it. I first played around with the layout of the ECU and the Bussman fuse/relay panel that I wanted to use for various electronics. I wanted to make sure that the mount was easily accessible, yet tucked up and away.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53480257586_018e6f8429_b-1.jpg

After I played around with the placement, I found a nice spot right behind the dash speaker that is also out of the way of the glove box. I'm hoping that one of those off the shelf dual speaker brackets will work where this is mounted, but if not I'll just fabricate something to fit. I ended up making it out of some 1/8" plate steel I had, which was way overkill but made the bracket very sturdy.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53479354752_8f04cbc5d1_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53480568694_237c6ce262_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53479354552_fd4884857a_b-1.jpg

I wanted to make sure that there would be plenty of room behind the Bussman panel for my wiring and also so that if I needed to, I could completely remove it for maintenance.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53480668375_e6c1f71102_b-1.jpg

Once I was happy with the placement I tack welded it in place and removed to weld it completely on my bench.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53480256091_875b08e075_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53479353522_1334dc58f1_b-1.jpg

I need to find some rubber isolators before I can mount it permanently, but hoping to get that reinstalled so I can cleanly route all my wiring to the ECU. The exhaust was completed and now I moved on to another project and decided to see what it would take to get the shift lever hooked up so I didn't have any interference wit the exhaust. Keeping with my budget theme, I decided to save some money and make the bracket myself. I repurposed the throttle cable that was on my car when I bought it since it had two rod ends. I can't see where it was actually a TriFive part, but think it was actually a throttle linkage off of a Harley or something. Anyway, I started with the stock lever as a template. I did have to reclock where the lever fits into the slot.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53480403113_9f2a99e424_b-1.jpg

I put the lever in my mill to elongate the hole, but didn't realize until part way through that the head of the mill was moving as it wasn't locked down 100% tight. It looks a little sloppy, but worked great when I installed it so I'm going to stay with it since it has zero play.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53480257031_d0a8b35b02_b-1.jpg

I bought a 5/16" rod from Tractor Supply and threaded the ends to match the rod ends, then hooked it all up. The rod needed a slight bend to clear the firewall, but shifts smoothly and freely. Pretty cool that it worked on the first try!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53480256816_060c3458cc_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53480402773_16b18a1478_b-1.jpg

After playing around shifting the gears for a few minutes, I counted the gears and realized that I wasn't quite able to get it to shift into 1st gear. After a bit of thinking and messaging with some TriFive guys I know, they suggested that I re-drill a new hole closer to the pivot. That did the trick and I was able to get all my gears!

[url=https://www.flickr.com/gp/98271343@N03/T470d43D4w]https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53479353587_661b4edd94_b-1.jpg

I was also playing around with the placement of the radiator and the hoses that I wanted to run. After finding several threads on Trifive.com I ordered the Gates 21710 and it fit just like everyone said it would. Once you cut off the section by the mesh, it will fit like it was made to be there.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53480568139_f627d5c3e0_b-1.jpg

Now the upper section was a little trickier since there are many variations of engine accessories, but the combination that I came up with works perfectly for a late model Gen4 Truck water pump. I used a combination of Gates 20416 and 20873. I cut and trimmed them to fit the bends that I needed around the CAI, then used an ICT adapter to connect them together. It was leftover from my Camaro, but worked perfectly for this scenario.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53479353777_b5858ef965_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53480256446_0b9c925960_b-1.jpg

While I was modifying the hoses, I wanted to confirm that it wouldn't interfere with the CAI I picked up a while ago. It's a generic 99-06 Silverado/Sierra V8 CAI, but it works great for this application. I'll need to shorten the pipe quite a bit, but overall fits really nicely. It's a nice big filter too so it should provide tons of surface area.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53479353577_4c0b9d9d94_b-1.jpg

I think that my shorter term goal will be to re-arrange that setup and swap out my engine accessories to C5/C6 to give me more room between the radiator and water pump. That will also give me more room to flip the CAI to the other side for a cleaner look.

Cheers,
Ryan

[Way2qwk4u]

Getting closer and closer. the shift rod was a great idea. Ill have too keep that in my back pocket. Keep plugging along.

[ryeguy2006a]

With the ECU mount sorted out, I was determined to get the wiring buttoned up. While it's great that Holley provides a clean harness with lots of length to route where you need it, for me it was way too much length. I tried looping it around, and started going down that path, then realized that I really disliked how it looked and was in the way of future components. So I pulled it all back out and started over. After a few different options, I found that looping around behind the ECU and looping around the passenger side, it routed much better and used up all of the "extra" length in the Holley harness. Once that was straightened out, I could build off of that routing and start wiring up my Bussmann fuse/relay panel. I pre-wires as much as I could on the bench, then I brought it into the cabin to integrate.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53494555357_c559bdfa3b_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53495446701_e0016179bf_b-1.jpg

I added wires to relays and spots for future fused accessories that I may need. I added three relays; the bottom one will be a relay dedicated ignition relay to power the panel, middle relay is my neutral safety switch that gets a feed from the factory 4L80e switch. The top relay is a transmission relay to separate it from the engine ECU ignition. It's in the instructions that they need to be separated or the engine may not shut off, but when I opened my transmission harness there was no relay. I found that I must have had an older transmission harness that only had a power feed and that Holley revised the later harnesses to include a relay.

Here is a picture in the middle of my wiring mess. I built the ECU mount and harness in a way that I could pull out the Bussmann panel for servicing, so you can see it on the glove box door. Then I tested everything and it worked perfectly!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53495745029_50d6d3882a_b-1.jpg

Now that it's working I can put it all together and start to tidy up the under dash wiring.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53495592353_74432da01b_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53495446306_b47b214e57_b-1.jpg

I still have several wires that need to be terminated, but overall I'm happy that the wiring is mostly complete. Most of the remaining wiring is related to my turn signals, gauges or radio. I also wired in a hidden kill switch as a bit of extra protection.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53495744654_4be753573d_b-1.jpg

Now that the wiring for the engine/trans is in place and fully functional, I continued down my list to figure out what else I needed to do in order to fire up the car...again I did a bunch of misc. things like, filling the trans fluid, looping cooler lines, re-routing some wiring in the engine bay, final mounting the radiator, installing engine steam ports, tightening bolts, reinstalling O2 sensor, and much more. I got it to the point that I was able to fire up the car as a complete assembly for more than just a few seconds. While the tune needs a lot of work, I was happy to report that it ran with great oil pressure and didn't have any engine leaks that I could find. I did have one transmission cooler line that was dripping quite a bit, but that should be a pretty quick fix. Since this was a completely unknown transmission, I put jack stands under the rear end with 10 quarts in the transmission. My neighbor stopped over when he heard the car fire up and shifted into reverse and he said the wheels were turning! Then in park they stopped.

https://youtu.be/5noolvlV4Ck?si=1xMyT9sw32TpJa7_

I'm very pleased that the car is mostly back together now and the motor will run and start with the key as well as move the wheels in gear. I was however disappointed with the way the engine was running. After some more diagnosis, I've got some fueling issues that need to be sorted out. It will only build about 10psi with the fuel pump on, engine off. Then when the pump stops, the pressure drops to zero. I need to so more diagnosis before I can find a solution. Guessing that it's the Frankenstein fuel pump that I built.

Moving on, I wanted to get the brakes sorted out. I had hoped to just bleed the rear brakes and call it a day, but the driver's side bleeder was froze shut. Ran down to the parts store and ordered a short section of NiCopp and two new wheel cylinders. Pretty cool that they had these on the shelf for an almost 70 year old car!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53495863245_d298855b3d_b-1.jpg

Pulled off the driver's side and everything had surface rust, but was in pretty good shape functionally. Not sure what all of the oil is on the axle? If it was a wheel cylinder, I would have expected to see it on everything?

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53495592593_35cae061ee_b-1.jpg

Was able to pop off the top springs and pop the old cylinder right out. Luckily the brake fluid hadn't made it's way down this far yet, so there wasn't any fluid to worry about. Routed the line over the axle housing, then cut and flared to meet up with the hose.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53495446526_e684bf3365_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53495863225_fea41ac141_b-1.jpg

Then it was rinse and repeat for the passenger's side. There was a bit more fluid on this side, but overall no much mess. That project was one of the few times when it took about the same time as I expected which is rare. In a way I'm glad the bleeder was froze because now I have new wheel cylinders and confirmed that everything is in working order.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53495592408_992aa11f9f_b-1.jpg

Next thing I had to address was something I discovered after welding in my transmission crossmember a few weeks ago. Two pieces of weld spatter landed on the NiCopp lines and welded themselves in place?!? I didn't think that it was possible since they are mostly Copper, but apparently there's enough Nickle in them to have mild steel weld spatter stick. So rather than replacing the whole thing, I opted to just add a union fitting. I'd love to say that this was also a mostly clean job like the wheel cylinders, but that was not the case at all. I tried to quickly get my flare tool in there, but as fast as I was working the fluid just gushed out.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53494555092_1d90b10db4_b-1.jpg

I bought these little clamps a few years ago, and this was just the ticket after I got a good flare. They are made by SUR & R Auto and are called brake fluid stoppers and were perfect for this situation.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53494555062_0191c0caec_b-1.jpg

I was able to take my time on the other flare since not much fluid came out. Once that was good, I added the union fitting and tried to quickly tighten it all. Got it all tightened down and it didn't drip once overnight, so I call that a win.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53495744759_b7d2c79669_b-1.jpg

I'm pretty quickly crossing things off of this list! Once I cross a few more off of the list, I think I'll take it up and down the block.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/53495862890_2152dc0ea5_b-1.jpg

It was a fairly lazy Sunday yesterday so my wife said that she could give me a hand bleeding my brakes. They bled out really nicely after only a few open/shuts on each bleeder. Tested them and the pedal is rock hard. I'm hoping to hook up the iBooster this week and see what the assist feels like. If I can figure out the fueling issue this week, I'm nearly ready to see what she does on the street.

Cheers,
Ryan

[Pedigry]

GitRdone! Nice work.

[ryeguy2006a]

Thank you sir! Pretty motivated to see if this car will move down the road!

[ryeguy2006a]

Ok y'all, this last update is super exciting for me, but was quite a roller coaster to get there. With the first startup out of the way, I wasn't that far off from taking the car out for a test drive! First task was to recruit my wife to help me with bleeding the brakes. She's done that before so it was very straight forward and they bled out very quickly. No pictures to show, but now it can officially stop! I'm going to jump around a bit, but stick with me.



Next up was to figure out why the car took so much effort to fire up and run. I would have to crank for a long time to get it to fire and stay running. If you listen to the last video, you can hear that it's labored for fuel. I was hoping to get away without a fuel pressure sensor, but this has forced my hand. I bought a few sensors from Low Dollar Motorsports for both the fuel and oil pressures. Once I got those installed the fuel pressure was only showing 10 psi while running, and would drop to zero immediately after it was off. If that wasn't enough data, I also checked the fuel learn table, and it was trying to add 87% fuel at idle to keep it running. I used a cheapy fuel pressure regulator from eBay and I think it came back to bite me.



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/02/53510565903_026029d1ba_b-1.jpg



So, I dropped the tank and with the fuel pump still connected and turned the pump on and it was spraying like crazy out of that little return hose, so I knew that it was bad... I bit the bullet and ordered the FPR I should have originally from Vaporworx. Ordered on a Sunday afternoon and it arrived by Thursday evening. Huge thanks to Carl!



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/02/53509507572_70e80c1665_b-1.jpg



Almost as soon as that was delivered, I ran out to the mailbox and swapped out the regulator and reinstalled to test. Fantastic news was that after a 2 second prime, it had over 25psi, but the bad news is I found out the fuel lid I used had a cracked fitting and was spraying fuel everywhere under the car!



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/02/53510565808_02fef7293f_b-1.jpg



I was able to pivot fairly quickly and used the gen5 Camaro lid with some small modifications. The lid that I used originally was from a 09-15 CTS-V since the long term plan is to swap in a real CTS-V fuel assembly with twin fuel pumps that's sitting on my bench when I add boost. I'll cross that bridge when the time comes, but for now it's the path of least resistance.



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/02/53510829875_ac720bef06_b-1.jpg



In between waiting for the fuel pump parts and issues, I welded in the cargo extension pieces that fit between the stock spare tire well. I needed to weld those in so that I could route the tail light wiring through the grommet in the driver's side corner.



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/02/53510397346_32d84e5569_b-1.jpg



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/02/53509507582_2bc337b4a2_b-1.jpg



Again, while waiting for parts I was able to pivot and work on wiring up the iBooster to test it functionality. Again, relied on evcreate.com for the wiring diagrams as there is a ton of information there about the swap. I was lucky enough to get the pigtails with the iBooster I picked up, so it was a matter of striping out the unused wires and labeling them for installation.



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/02/53502364273_62fc55089f_b-1.jpg



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/02/53502212151_8135f28f1c_b-1.jpg



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/02/53501324992_fcb355df23_b-1.jpg



With that wired up, I was concerned that it wasn't giving me any assistance. After trial and error of testing all the wiring, I determined that it wasn't the wiring issue. As a last resort, I pulled the pin from the clevis and noticed that there was a bit of preload on the pin. It came out a little hard, but once it was free, I heard some clicking and then I was able to push the rod by hand! Apparently they don't like any preload, so I loosened up the clevis two turns and then reinstalled with full assist! Very happy about that.



Once that was straightened out, I turned back to my fueling issue, and got everything reinstalled in the car. Now the car has a bit over 60psi while running!



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/02/53509507507_f55ca3b673_b-1.jpg



With all of that straightened out, it was time to fire up the car and see if it will move. I cranked up the car and it idled significantly better, then gave the car a once over to make sure nothing was leaking and there was fluid pouring out of the transmission! WTH!! Quickly shut it off and found that one of the transmission lines wasn't happy. So I ran to the parts store and someone sold me a significantly discounted line and new fitting to get me quickly fixed up. Swapped those on the car and no leaks!! Well still drips a little on the temporary loop I ran, but it's minimal. All that built up to this:



https://youtube.com/shorts/_XIhYiH9_jI?si=yDFWMGG_HfYJU5Ja



Then after I got back from the drive, I got a nice walk around in it's current state. Still needs plenty of TLC, but it's a running and driving car now!!



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0jcravYgbow



It's been quite a roller coaster the last few days, but I'm so close to having it be street legal. I'm basically down to installing headlights, parking brake, rear view mirror and windshield wipers. Should be able to knock those out in the next few weeks and get an appointment for an inspection!



Cheers,

Ryan

[thumper877]

You have come a long way in not to long of time. Congratulations. It's so awesome to finally take that first drive. The patina on ur walk-around video is so freaking cool. I love it

[ryeguy2006a]

Thanks Thumper! I love the way the patina came out. I want to add a little more in some spots and do some more sanding on the hood, but once I'm 100% happy with it, I'm going to clear over the whole thing.

[ryeguy2006a]

With the huge push to get the car running/driving/stopping it wore me down a bit. I had to take a break and just enjoy the fact that I could drive it around the neighborhood. I was still collecting parts, but got back to working on it this weekend. Now that I've hit that large milestone, my next goal is to get the car fully road worthy so that I can schedule an inspection so I can hit the open road! One of the parts I was waiting on was a Y splitter for the Holley CAN bus. This allows me to connect the USB cable and use the 3.5" screen at the same time.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/02/53553806235_ed99c3c913_b-1.jpg

My fuel table needs lots of work.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/02/53552501747_8c78f16503_b-1.jpg

After looking up the rules for what's required for passing the inspection, the parking brake would be the most challenging item. I had the handle inside the car, but everything else was missing. After looking around online seeing the parts I needed selling for ~$500 bucks, I made a trip to my favorite junkyard up the road. The same car that donated the rear floor section to my car also donated the parking brake parts. The floors were so rotted, that I just cut the hump in between the two floor pans to easily reach the brackets. I was expecting a big fight, but was pleasantly surprised that all 6 bolts came out smooth and easy! couldn't believe how clean the hardware is!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/02/53552501722_de0720342d_b-1.jpg

I also picked up some rear seat reinforcement plates and rear view mirror.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/02/53552501732_9b290856d4_b-1.jpg

The lower cable guide is a bit rough, but nothing that I can't fix. Just needs a new wheel, new hardware and paint.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/02/53553806120_7e5a6835a2_b-1.jpg

The mirror back side and mount were pitted, but the face is very smooth. I cleaned up and painted the back side of the mirror, then just used some steel wool on the mount and it cleaned up pretty decent... But matches the rest of the trim in the car.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/02/53553357001_f49bbf1e9e_b-1.jpg

I've been putting off this project for a while, but it was finally time to get the floor braces and rear seat mounts all welded up. Whoever installed the floors before somehow didn't completely weld the floor braces to the pans. So I drilled some holes along the braces and spot welded the floors and braces together.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/02/53553806080_18dbeea21c_b-1.jpg

Once that was done, I moved to install the rear seat reinforcement plates. I had the upper seat installed with some self tapping screws so that I could nail down the right mounting spot. So I used those screws to set the plate and scribed a line for the spot welds. I then drilled a bunch of spot weld holes to secure the plate on. I still need to seam seal and paint the plates, but they are now installed.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/02/53553356926_4e962829b2_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/02/53553555938_f37c2e0c50_b-1.jpg

Since I had the welder out, I pushed to get the rear seat bottom brackets installed. I didn't get any in process, but the seat brackets had to be tweaked slightly once the upper seat was completely bolted down. I buzzed them all together after I drilled a bunch of holes for spot welds. Brackets are very solidly welded, so they aren't going anywhere. Paint was still wet from spraying the spot welds, but it should dry down completely flat.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/02/53553356881_ba227ae24d_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/02/53553695404_0c15f6115a_b-1.jpg

Once that was final welded, I bolted the rear seat bottom back together too. Looks the same as before, but now when I rotate the seats it's so much smoother.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/02/53553555853_6c58845cb1_b-1.jpg

With the seats all back together and bolted down for good, I really wanted to get an interior panel out so see what it looked like. I'm really digging the 55 Nomad panels. My plan is to keep the original Turquoise uppers, but dye the bottom black. I think that it'll look really good and I like that it's still stockish. From all of my research, there wasn't a black interior option for a 1955 Nomad. So using the original panels, but dyed black on the bottom will look pretty cool. Plus the original waffle panels and all of the original chrome trim.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/02/53553555753_0cd68306b4_b-1.jpg

Then the UPS/Fedex/USPS trucks all came and dropped off parts at my house. I got a complete set of body bushings, firewall grommet for Terminator X, ebrake rollers/bolts, shift indicator spring/clip, front parking brake cable, and dust caps for the 61-68 Impala hubs.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/02/53553805715_6ec655453c_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/02/53553356631_2c9d340372_b-1.jpg

Right now I'm in the process of cleaning up and re-assembling the parking brake setup. First, I had to remove the handle and get rid of those clutch head bolts. I didn't have the right bits for them, but a few minutes with my vice grips took care of them. Will not be reusing them, and replacing with either a button head allen bolt, or a regular hex flange head bolt.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/02/53553356736_e824758b61_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/02/53553555783_2eb0745653_b-1.jpg

The handle was frozen but after a little bit of TLC I got it free and lubricated. The upper cable guide wheel was also frozen up, so I removed that and will replace with one of the new plastic wheels. Next up is getting the parking brake brackets cleaned up and installed. Should have that done by the end of the week and have functional parking brakes. Next up will be wiper motor and, wiring up headlights/dimmer switch, and buttoning up the last remaining wiring for the dash bezel.

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

I like when I can install clean parts! All the parking brake parts and hardware were in great shape, so I just had to clean them up and paint.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/02/53556741662_ec9d527e46_b-1.jpg

Then I had to figure out how it all went back together. Thankfully there are many diagrams online and I was able to get if figured out pretty quickly. I put in the new front parking brake cable, new cable guide rollers/hardware and lubricated the parking brake handle. I was worried that the transmission crossmember that I installed would rub, but it clears by about 1/4".

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/02/53558043325_23d9350b83_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/02/53557926729_51d1d479fb_b-1.jpg

I removed the exhaust to gain access to the lower parking brake cable guide and also because I never installed the gaskets. While I had them out, I painted them with some high temp flat black. Probably will still burn off, but since it's mild steel I thought it may give it a little more protection than leaving it bare.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/02/53556741677_574725f71b_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/02/53557591396_17beb9107b_b-1.jpg

It was a quick update, but pretty excited to have functional parking brakes now. That was a bigger worry for me since that's an item on the inspection list and I'm sure they'll check. Just need to get my horn working, wire up headlights, add an exhaust hanger, and install wiper motor/arms. Once those are done, I can schedule an inspection.

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

I've been busy wrapping up all of the small details needed in order to get the car ready to be 100% road legal. Next up on the list was getting the car converted over to electric wipers. The standard option was a vacuum actuator, with electric being optional. What I find very slick is that the same knob is used for both vacuum or electric. You rotate the knob on the dash and that will pull/push a cable to run the vacuum motor, but it also works to activate the electric switch. Pretty cool that it works for both and was a very easy swap.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/03/53585345103_2a78a1e434_b-1.jpg

Since I was rewiring the whole car, I wanted to make the dash easier to remove if I needed to. I added a metripack connector so I could just disconnect in the future.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/03/53585566400_cf32ae0324_b-1.jpg

The horn was pretty straight forward. I picked up a universal horn from Advanced Auto and everything was wired up correctly. I did have a little trouble getting the horn mechanism to ground properly at first, but that just needed some sanding an dielectrical grease. This 210 steering wheel I got from the JY didn't come with a center cap, but I found one on eBay in the right condition and color. It matches the wheel perfectly!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/03/53585566215_c49c2a447e_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/03/53585566135_1394cd51c9_b-1.jpg

As I was testing the lights and other operations, I noticed that the headlight switch I had wasn't operating the gauge illumination. I had two switches, and since the other one worked better, I opted to use that one. However the switch was very stiff. I decided to pull it apart and inspect. The mechanism that operates the headlights is very basic, but does have lots of springs that need to be in the right spots. There was a slight bit of corrosion on the contacts, so I scuffed those up and added some dielectrical grease. It's now smooth as butter, but was a PITA to get back together correctly.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/03/53584255452_cb218cf75b_b-1.jpg

This wasn't necessary for the inspection, but I wanted to get the firewall sealed up and this was a good sized hole. This is a Haltech grommet that's made for a 2.5" hole. Fits great and makes for a much cleaner operation. I'd highly recommend buying one BEFORE you wire up the car. Makes for much less work down the road.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/03/53585119831_e98fb2d265_b-1.jpg

Lastly, I ordered a new body bushing rubber kit. Most of the body bushings were newer, but there were a handful that look to be reused originals and were very cracked and hard. Figured I'd just start with a brand new kit. It was a huge PITA to get the body squared up without a lift, but was able to get it where I was happy.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/03/53585444489_4aea42fe53_b-1.jpg

I'm also starting to think about getting the interior finalized and buttoned up. I picked up some Kilamat 80 Mil sound deadener and once that is installed I'll need to get the wheel wells covered. I bought a pair of vinyl covers from CARS, Inc. that I'll wrap the rear inner wheel wells with. I'm hoping that the sound deadener will make a big difference with how loud the interior is. Between that and running a proper tail pipe I'm hoping that it will be much quieter.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/03/53585344628_696bd6b72f_b-1.jpg

I'm not sure when, but at some point I'll want to install A/C and found this bracket used for a fantastic price. Should make building a custom bracket significantly easier.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/03/53585566885_78dc999435_b-1.jpg

I bought a new union to replace the one that I bought a few weeks ago and while I was inspecting it, I noticed that there was a large burr inside. Just a reminder to always check your new parts.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/03/53587796774_cd0af9ff44_b-1.jpg

I picked up a second regulator for my welder specifically for Argon. I had been swapping back and forth, but my welder has two ports for MIG and TIG so you can run two different gasses. So I wanted to take advantage of the one specific for TIG and bought this regulator with two separate outputs. Now I'll be able to back purge when I'm welding stainless so there won't be any sugaring on the backside when I build an exhaust next go around.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/03/53585444674_b1a6c1df18_b-1.jpg

My punch list is now down to just a few items and I'm getting really anxious to get this car out on the highway. Right now I need to figure out the leaking transmission cooler fittings. I really just want to find a bandaid solution so that it will stop leaking on the garage floor. The radiator that's currently installed works find and doesn't leak, but I want to figure out something different so that I can use the Gen6 Camaro fan which would mean a new radiator. I don't want to fab up cooler brackets and route the lines knowing that I'll change it soon. So for now, I'll just keep an eye on the trans temps.

Cheers,
Ryan

[craulston]

Love this car! If I ever come across one to restomod, its on the list. Cant wait for updates!

[ryeguy2006a]

Thanks man, I appreciate it!! My hope is that a few years down the road that this car will be receiving an aftermarket chassis from Nerd Rods. :drool:

HUGE update for me. I've been consistently plugging away at getting this car ready for the open road. It's one thing going around the neighborhood, but another thing entirely to get the car up to 55+ on a highway. After reviewing the options at Virginia DMV, I came to realize that I should have registered my car using Antique plates rather than a regular registration when I originally bought the car. Antique plates have no annual inspection requirements and a one time registration fee, so I'm much better off with that option. There are some restrictions about where you can drive, but from what I understand they are very hard to enforce. So once I re-registered with the new plates, I was free to get the car out on the open road and do some testing! My parents came down to VA to visit for the weekend, and I really wanted to take my Dad with me on the maiden voyage out on the open road. They came into town and I got him right to work. We buttoned up a few things that I hadn't gotten to and we were able to drive about a mile up the road and back to get gas!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/03/53597829431_8cbe14cf33_b-1.jpg

My dad took some unflattering photos of me haha. While I look irritated, inside I was stoked to be out and driving.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/03/53598318415_1f92f021da_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/03/53597858221_f8e4b80b03_c-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/03/53598188409_8639b1a3f0_c-1.jpg

The EFI really benefitted from getting up to temperature and out on the road. It was stalling quite a bit on gear change and hard hot starts, but afterwards it cleaned up and was much happier. While there were tons of good that came out of the drive, my attention seems to be focused on the things I want to fix. Pulls hard to the right, terrible body roll (no sway bars or rear shocks), tons of rattles, louder inside than outside of the car (no door panels or sound deadener), and the worst part is I think it sounds like a truck... I've got a lot of theories as to why that could be, but I'd be open to suggestions that could help. Stock manifolds, 2.5" pipes Y into single 3" and a Walker QuietFlow SS muffler. Sounds great at idle.

Overall the first drive was a huge success and I can't wait to get the interior back together and work out all the bugs.

Sunday afternoon I got out and started tucking wires and getting the dash back together. Looks so much better. Anyone know what vehicle that "Nomad" emblem came from? While it's not original, I really like how it looks and am keeping it!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/03/53598040588_ba87214272_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/03/53598158569_fe960fd99b_b-1.jpg

I bought some seam sealer a few days ago and will be going through the floors to seal up any spots that I had leftover from all the panel replacement. Hopefully between that and the sound deadener I'll be able to seal up and quiet down the interior.

Cheers,
Ryan

[dhutton]

Some Thermozite felt thermal insulation over the sound deadener will quiet things down quite a lot in my experience.

[ryeguy2006a]

Some Thermozite felt thermal insulation over the sound deadener will quiet things down quite a lot in my experience.
Fantastic, thank you Don. I'm going to run some 80 mil butyl sound deadener down first. I'll get some of that to go on top of that.

[dhutton]

Do your wheel tubs too. Makes a difference on those nomads.

[ryeguy2006a]

I'm going to lay down the sound deadener first then wrap them with vinyl. Hoping to get that done soon. I can't wait to get my interior back together!!

[ryeguy2006a]

My sound deadener came in a few weeks ago, but am just now to the point where I am ready to install. Before I laid down the deadener, I bought a tube of seam sealer to seal up all of the spots where I had to replace metal. That should help keep the fumes and occasional rain out of the car. I also sanded down the floors and cleaned up any oil/grease spots.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/03/53609193412_8bf2e7152a_b-1.jpg

I got the first few pieces started and my youngest son wanted to help with the roller, so he got right in there! He was bored after a few minutes, but glad he was able to help me again. I always show my boys what I'm doing and see if they want to help.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/03/53610067731_113c136578_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/03/53610404824_a293b56de8_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/03/53610067676_c8d691204d_b-1.jpg

It's such a simple and relatively quick task, but is very satisfying when you step back to check your work.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/03/53609193217_0af6e5d2b0_b-1.jpg

I'm in the process of modifying the front seat so I can lower it and move it backwards. Wrapping that up shortly so that will be nice sitting in a more comfortable position.

Cheers,
Ryan

[Way2qwk4u]

I hope that it makes a big difference I have not got to try mine out yet. Glad to see the Nomad out on the road. I am hoping for a great driving summer.

[ryeguy2006a]

I hope that it makes a big difference I have not got to try mine out yet. Glad to see the Nomad out on the road. I am hoping for a great driving summer.

I hope so too and I'm also looking forward to a great driving summer!

I finished my seat modification project last night. I learned recently that the front bench seat that I picked up was unfortunately not a 55-56 split bench seat, but rather a 53-54 Bel-Air seat. While I was a little disappointed, it all made sense why it never quite fit right in the car. It looks very similar so I decided that I'm just going to run with it. The seat sits too high and forward in the car as it is, so my plan is to drill a few new holes to relocate the rear mounts, build extensions for the front to bolt down and the biggest... notch the front and rear bracing to sit down lower.

I took some basic measurements and just went for it. Here's basically what I wanted to create, and just improvised.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/03/53610067556_9364446cca_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/03/53610521640_1f54e10896_b-1.jpg

I had some leftover 5/8" rod from my shifter project and bent it into an arch roughly the size of what I needed and confirmed it was the same radius as the trans hump. I welded the rod in first, then cut out the brace to keep the original shape.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/03/53610067486_9e88e5d61c_b-1.jpg

Then I got busy and forgot to take pictures. I added a second rod parallel to the first rod with a cross brace in between. I drilled out the spot welds on the chunk of the seat frame I cut out and used the top piece for re-attaching the seat upholstery to. I had to notch the center support and re-bend it so that it would also be raised a bit. (I'll later discover that I have to notch it further and relocate the back higher as it was still hitting the trans hump.)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/03/53610404529_5e4ab00f06_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/03/53610521460_76a15c4713_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/03/53610404439_4a47ef33c4_b-1.jpg

I used this as an opportunity to practice with my TIG welder. One reason is that I need the practice, and two is that as old as the seat I needed to reduce the amount of sparks thrown. Nice thing with the TIG welder is that when done correctly there are few if any sparks. I've found that if you don't clean the pieces 100%, that it will spatter a small amount. I still have a ways to go, but I'm happy with my improvements.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/03/53610280613_723e4ece6f_b-1.jpg

I again got busy and didn't take pictures, but here's the final piece. You can see that the center piece is quite a bit higher than the other pictures, and I also notched the center of the back frame. It was enough to get the seat to fit without contacting the transmission hump and should given enough room for carpet too.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/03/53614898665_875fcefe00_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/03/53614786689_454c2ef9b1_b-1.jpg

With the seat modifications out of the way, it was on to the seat mounts. I dug through my metal pile and found a really cool bracket that had holes that lined up perfectly with the original seat mounts. I just had to figure out how I wanted to bolt the original style seat mounts to the plates. I came up with the idea of welding some studs that would allow me to bolt them down.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/03/53614786739_20880da51a_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/03/53614786694_472f35684e_b-1.jpg

Little more TIG practice.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/03/53614786699_6d303f95ce_b-1.jpg

Here it is test fit. This was prior to me painting the sliders.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/03/53614786729_bfdfd1f356_b-1.jpg

The overall setback is about 2" back and 3" down. Now the gas/brake pedal and steering wheel are at a very comfortable position. I have tons of head room now and I'm really excited to take the car out for a drive to compare.

Before:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/53067350302_9176cb42dd_b-1.jpg

After:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/03/53614450991_8035943c35_b-1.jpg

Next up is laying down the Kilamat on the wheel wells so that I can wrap them with the Vinyl covers. Really excited to see those installed!

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

I've been plugging away getting the car prepped to start installing the interior panels. At the recommendation of many tri-five wagon folks, I've wrapped the rear wheel wells in sound deadener. I'm also hoping that this will fill in any small dents/imperfections that they had. I'm going to run over them a few more times with a larger roller before I glue down the vinyl covers.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/04/53626748154_92187f5ae8_b-1.jpg

It's very rough test fit, but I couldn't help but throw one up just to see how it fit. I think with a lot of heat and some help I'll be able to stretch the cover for a nice fitment. My main concern is to make sure that the seam is nice and straight.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/04/53626419671_3cf656e407_b-1.jpg

My father-in-law dropped off some parts that he wasn't using a few months ago that he removed from his 1956 Belair which included a chrome glove box door. I knew that I didn't want a chrome glove box door, but I saw a car at a local Cars & Coffee with a dash board with a ton of stickers on it. It got me thinking about the tons of stickers that I have and I could throw them on the chrome glove box so I could easily swap back and forth if I wanted/needed to. There was quite a bit of rust/pitting in the inside of the door, so I sanded that all down primed and painted it flat black.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/04/53626748119_3317eede98_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/04/53626748039_4e6df716ac_b-1.jpg

After that dried for a few days, I pulled out my envelope full of stickers and got to work. It was fun because I brought it inside the house and the kids were coloring so we all did an arts/crafts time. I'm really happy with the way that it turned out. It definitely goes with the theme of the car.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/04/53625520577_704219da53_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/04/53626748009_718819baf2_b-1.jpg

Next up is getting my exhaust tailpipe welded up and installed. I also want to install some seatbelts and dye/clean up my interior panels before I reinstall.

Question, has anyone used vinyl dye on seats before? I'd like to dye the rear seats black on my car, but I don't want to if it can come off or start flaking. I was impressed with the dye I used on my Camaro. I accidently scratched something against it, but it held up with no peeling or damage. I had heard some people had issues with the dyed seats reactivating in the heat and it coming off on your clothes.

Cheers,
Ryan

[thumper877]

Wow that glovebox door is so awesome. Now I'm going to have to get some of my stickers lol

[OLDFLM]

Whatever you do use the SEM Landau Black on your interior! It's worth the price!

[ryeguy2006a]

I've got a few cans of the SEM Landau Black on my shelf already :cheers:

[ryeguy2006a]

This last update has been sort of a messy, clean-up and painting update. I'm gearing up for my interior install and need to prepare all of my parts and panels for the installation. My car came to me with very little interior in the car, so most of what I have is a mix and match from other cars. While keeping on a budget, my goal is to get the interior to be complete and look pretty decent. Generally those two are mutually exclusive, but I'm going to do my best.

First up was to clean up the rusty roof. There was a ton of surface rust that I wanted to clean up for future installation of heat/sound deadener. I'm not sure when I'll attempt the head liner, but for now it looks pretty cool with just the black roof.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/04/53643223845_2f39b69e74_b-1.jpg

Not much to see, but I did order an 8 piece carpet kit from ACC. I ordered it from Rock Auto and will say that they had the best prices and shipping wasn't bad at all. I'm leaving it boxed up for now since it takes up much less space. I'll pull it out and let it sit in the sun before I go to install.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/04/53643223675_9165616a9c_b-1.jpg

Next part is really exciting for me. I have been itching to get the interior panels that I bought from Spring Carlisle last year out and installed on the car. It's been in the box and moved around the garage for almost a year, but is finally ready to get some attention. Crazy how good of condition they are for being almost 70 years old!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/04/53641884807_0ff380203b_b-1.jpg

I didn't notice when I bought these originally, but in the upper right side of the door panel there is a 4th hole. After some research I found out that this is for a rare factory optional remote mirror. Pretty cool, and looks like I'll need to track one down at some point, but for now I'll just make a little block off plate or something.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/04/53642764391_033203634a_b-1.jpg

Got all the rest of the panels and trim set out and started to organize.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/04/53643100464_2c8e5f8180_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/04/53641884807_0ff380203b_b-1.jpg

The white interior panels really isn't the style of what I'm going after, so I decided to change it. Black was never an interior or exterior option for 1955, and I've never seen another two tone black and turquoise Nomad interior. I decided to use the same SEM Vinyl dye that I used on my Camaro on these panels. I carefully masked off the turquoise and prepped the white for paint. First step was Windex and a scrub brush, followed by soap and water with a scrub brush. Then once I felt the panels were clean enough, I wiped down the white with a liberal amount of lacquer thinner soaked in a rag, then it was ready to spray! My father-in-law gave these kick panels to me too from his 1956 Bel-Air, so I used the same method and dyed these too.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/04/53643100394_8aa360afd1_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/04/53642764296_80ed84fd86_b-1.jpg

I couldn't wait to get the masking off so that I could see what it's going to look like with all the trim installed. I'm very pleased with how it's going to look. It's actually better than I had hoped. I quickly polished the trim, but the lower waffle panel needs some attention. For those that don't know, all of the stainless trim and "waffle" panel is unique to only 1955 Nomad's. Unfortunately, when I was taking inventory of the trim, I am missing the longest piece of stainless trim for the one side. Thankfully Spring Carlisle is right around the corner, and I know a few people will have them at the show.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/04/53643223620_811bdcf743_b-1.jpg

Right now, I'm working on getting the door garnish moldings cleaned, painted and fit to the doors. I'm going to order more vinyl dye so that I can spray the rear seat bottom and back. I'll have more time removing all of the trim and brackets, but it will look so good and be worth it.

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

Moving along, I was really anxious to get the door panel installed to see what it was going to look like. I was able to get the trim all polished up and installed a few nights ago. I was able to get the majority of the dents on the waffle panel popped out, but looks way better than when I started. I all the trim was polished up using Mother's Polish. That worked so well vs. the generic polish I had bought years ago from a parts store.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/04/53658591004_ce82de0593_b-1.jpg

I realized that before I can install the door panel for good that I'd need to get the door garnish moldings installed first. They weren't in the best shape when I bought them, but I could fix that. I used a flap disk to take down all of the rusty flakes, primed with etch primer, then followed up by a few coats of high build.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/04/53641884547_68e2187522_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/04/53642977093_3f85be7279_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/04/53642976998_a56bcd7b62_b-1.jpg

I waited a few days for it to dry down completely before I tried sanding it. When I was ready I started with some 600 dry on a block to knock it down smooth, then followed that up with 600 wet sanding. I was able to get about 75% of the bumps out but when I started getting into the etch primer I stopped. Sprayed on another two medium-heavy coats of the high build, and repeated my sanding process. Worked great and got all of the spots out. Very pleased with the spray can high build. You can see the specks in the one spot that were all filled in with the second coat of high build.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/04/53657370522_60bc8d5c39_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/04/53658234461_bea6718136_b-1.jpg

Then I did a test fit with the garnish moulding and the door panel. Really cool to see it together, but also very glad that I did a test fit because the door needed tweaking as well as the garnish was twisted. Always test fit things BEFORE a final install.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/04/53658705585_6ed262caa3_b-1.jpg

I had also realized at this time that I was missing a door pull bracket. Found a nice set of used pieces on eBay and had them pretty quickly. Now that the test fit was over, I was confident that I'd be able to spray the door mouldings. I turned to my old trusty SEM Trim Black paint. I love the way this paint lays out and I think the sheen is perfect.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/04/53658234386_8b3f99e10a_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/04/53658590834_1613331fe6_b-1.jpg

Then it was time for a final fitment of the re-finished door panel. So happy with the results! In 1955, you weren't able to order a black interior, so taking an original interior and re-dying it black with Turquoise accents is a cool touch. While the panels aren't in the best condition, given they are nearly 70 years old they look pretty good IMO. Plus, I'm not going for a perfect restoration just a cool reliable driver.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/04/53657370467_e754a05592_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/04/53658234316_494a7805d0_b-1.jpg

I also needed to install a tail pipe to get the exhaust out from under the car. I put together a quick side exit that will be a temporary exhaust until the time comes to add some boost.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/04/53657370392_e1ba0ccf6c_b-1.jpg

All of this was building up to this weekend where there was a cruise-in at the local restoration shop here in Charlottesville called C'Ville Classics. I hadn't been more than a few miles up the road and back, so this was a test of how it would do a little farther from home. It was about 20 miles round trip and the car performed perfectly. Engine temps were perfect, trans shifted great, no whining from rear end, brakes performed amazing, and was significantly quieter with the added sound deadener/tailpipe combination. Now, there are a bunch of things I need to address first of which is a front end alignment, but was a great test drive.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/04/53658705380_03ac1819f7_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/04/53658705330_039e7d1f14_b-1.jpg

We had a great time and the car got a ton of attention. We walked away to see the other cars and looked back and there were several people checking it out.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/04/53658590644_ea52021a9d_b-1.jpg

My son wanted a picture next to the car. They were just about as happy as I was that we were able to drive it to that show today. I can't wait to get the seats dyed and install some seatbelts so we can all go for a ride.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/04/53658590644_ea52021a9d_b-1.jpg

It was great talking to guys at the show and answering lots of questions. Of all the things on the car, the iBooster got the most questions. Lots of people had no idea what it was, or that it was some sort of ABS module. I think the best comment though was as I was leaving when a guy leaned into my window and said, "I love the car man it looks great. Well it doesn't look great, but you know what I mean, haha" That's about what I expected as a reaction from people.

Next on my short list of things to address is a small weep leak from the transmission pan, addressing the cooling fan, and front end alignment. My father-in-law is stopping down this week so that we can go to Spring Carlisle, and while he's down we are going to install the rear wheel well covers. That's really a two man job, so that will be a huge step towards getting the interior back together.

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

As I do every year as far back as I can remember, I've been going to the Spring Carlisle car show swap meet. It's normally a kick off for the spring, although now being further south it's actually less in bloom when I drive north to Carlisle. Plus we have the Cars and Coffee cruise in's all year round, but none the less I love going to see what all of the vendors have to offer. My father-in-law bought a 56 Belair Hardtop back in November last year so we made a plan that he would come with me this year. I had three major things that I wanted to get when I was down there; Liftgate garnish moulding, 1 remaining door panel stainless trim piece, and a Nomad roof section. I coordinated with 3 separate guys to meet me there with the parts since I didn't want to ship any of those parts. Two of the three vendors I was able to meet and purchase parts, but there was a misunderstanding and the guy with the door trim brought the wrong piece. There are two pieces of long trim that go on the top and bottom of the waffle insert. I needed the upper but he brought the lower... I was super bummed out because that was the only one that I was able to source. Nothing on forums, eBay, FB groups or FB marketplace...

Towards the end of the day we were walking past a vendor for AMD sheetmetal and he was selling a 1955 Nomad. As I'm checking it out, sure enough there's an old door panel in the back with the trim piece that I needed! So I humbly went over to the guy who owned the car, offered him a very generous price and asked multiple times if he would sell me the piece. He apologetically said no and said he would just like to keep it all together. I was super bummed out, but I figured it was worth a shot. Right about that time we went to grab lunch and shortly after it started raining. We agreed that it was time to leave, but we had to walk past that 55 Nomad and I thought what the heck, I'll ask one more time. He was busy with other customers, but once they moved on I approached him with a little smirk on my face and asked as nicely as I could one more time. He started to chuckle a little and said, "You know there's always one guy at these show's that gives me a hard time and today it's you! Let me see what piece of trim you are talking about." So I showed him what piece I needed and to my luck the other piece was missing, so it was already an incomplete set. After a little more back and forth he was able to pry it off and I couldn't take my money out quick enough. So stoked to have that piece!

The car was REALLY rough!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/04/53670157547_df535d7a6c_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/04/53671038881_a09b8d8fb7_b-1.jpg

Here are the other parts that I picked up. Really stoked to have found a front bumper that matches my car with a bit of rust. The infamous piece of trim is in the middle, along with a liftgate garnish moulding and other misc. tailgate pieces.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/04/53671375175_8627810aa2_b-1.jpg

I did a quick polish on it and this is where it will go. Just need to polish the rest of the trim and get it installed on the car!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/04/53671365999_c75a29ecf9_b-1.jpg

The last tailgate bar to finish my set.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/04/53670135072_05821b3073_b-1.jpg

I bought some Nomad parts from a guy in NY when I was visiting last year, and I've kept in touch with the guy since he has 4 Nomad's! He met me at Carlisle and when I went to pay him GAVE me this roof section. He had two spare sections that came in a bunch of parts he bought and said if I can use it that he was happy. Thanks Tom. As nice as the metal is on this roof, I'd hate to see the condition that the car must have been in to give up these parts.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/04/53671016746_ee6cd39bec_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/04/53671227738_f3ecc90f84_b-1.jpg

I didn't get many pictures from the show, but I did snag some pictures of this from a vendor. This is going to be one of the next upgrades that I'd like to do on my car, but I want to integrate the Gen6 Camaro 850 watt SPAL fan rather than the dual fans. I'll pick a radiator and work around that to build my structure.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/04/53671141373_9e9594e2f4_b-1.jpg

We were beat by the time we got home, but had to at least see what the bumper looked like on the car. It's just sitting on that stool, but really changes the look of the car. So happy to have a complete front end.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/04/53671278029_1974c0f055_b-1.jpg

While I had a second set of hands, my father in law helped me glue down the rear wheel well covers. This would have been very difficult to do by myself, especially making sure that the seam was straight. We glued down the middle section of the covers that have the straightest point to reference. That way I can come back later and pull it tight to get rid of wrinkles and that section will stay straight and I'll work off of that.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/04/53671375010_931c7b0c0c_b-1.jpg

I'm really pleased with how they turned out.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/04/53670927791_d8351c9b39_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/04/53671374935_6485ebf709_b-1.jpg

We took the car out for another drive and it really is so nice that I can just turn the key and it fires right up. I'm very happy with my base tune so far. I need to smooth out my VE table and tweak some shift points, but otherwise I'm extremely happy with the way it performs. I posted after the first drive that I wasn't happy with the exhaust note, but the combination of sound deadener, more interior panels and the tail pipe has my mind changed. I'm very happy with the exhaust notes throughout the power band and it's quiet enough that I can have a comfortable conversation at 60 mph with my passengers. Just what I wanted.

Hoping to have my interior assembled and reinstalled over the next few weeks and then I can just enjoy driving it for the summer.

Cheers,
Ryan

[OLDFLM]

GREAT updates as always Ryan! I think that front bumper will look great after a little clean-up and polishing too! Keep the updates coming!

[dhutton]

Your resourcefulness is amazing. Curious how much he was asking for that crusty Nomad.

Don

[ryeguy2006a]

Well, it's been several weeks since my last update because I burned myself out haha. I needed to take a break from working on the car, but recently got some more motivation to get back to it. After the swap meet where I found my very hard to find piece of trim I put the door panel back together and bumper installed, but that's where I really stopped working on the car.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/05/53751334087_52ee8285cc_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/05/53752662145_59dac57b5b_b-1.jpg

I got the front bumper installed, but now I need to figure out something different with my front end. I think the frame horns are bent because the fenders and hood now don't fit like they should. But it looks way better haha.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/05/53752304266_fedb9e3b77_b-1.jpg

My father-in-law sent me a license plate bracket he wasn't using so that I could install the front plate.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/05/53752252881_99aae867f3_b-1.jpg

I found this sticker online so that if it wasn't obvious enough, that people know it's not done yet haha.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/05/53752437588_103f72e350_b-1.jpg

That brings me up to this Sunday. I had a few beverages and finally bit the bullet and installed the rear wheel covers. They were much more difficult to install and get straight than I had anticipated. Thankfully I was in a good state of mind and just pushed through haha. I'm not 100% happy with the install, but they really aren't too bad. I think I didn't get enough glue in some spots so it is lifting a little, but otherwise is straight and looks a ton better than before.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/05/53752438878_92c079f799_b-1.jpg

Then I cleaned up and dyed the rear panels. This was pretty straight-forward and the SEM paint lays down so nicely.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/05/53752578964_1c3d99f21f_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/05/53752247451_0c7810dd7d_b-1.jpg

Then I got out the section above the rear wheel wells. That didn't need any paint, just waiting for the wheel well covers to be installed.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/05/53751328492_4b835bc066_b-1.jpg

Then I was able to test fit to get an idea for what the interior will look like. I love the color scheme, just wished the wheel well covers came out better. OH well, I guess it matches the car haha. I think it will partially be covered by the rear seat so I may get lucky there.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/05/53752572714_40beed7960_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/05/53752717415_90bb18f313_b-1.jpg

I am still chasing a transmission leak and replaced the Jiffy-Tite fittings with -6 AN so I can also add a cooler. I ordered all but two fittings, and decided to just cut a short section off of the hose to make a by-pass to check for leaks. I had hoped that would fix the leak, but it don't believe it did. It didn't leak as much after I parked it, so it could have just been some residual fluid on top of something, but I don't think I'll get that lucky.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/05/53752658525_635d5c0c62_b-1.jpg

The install went pretty smoothly, but the Jeg's AN adapters for the 4L80e I ordered did need to be modified. The rear one fit perfectly, but the front one was too long. I had to cut off a section and taper some of the threads on the end for it to fully seat. But otherwise, it all seems to have sealed up without any issues.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/05/53752575414_7db33154f5_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/05/53752434968_698973ccc1_b-1.jpg

I ordered the last few sheet metal pieces to finish up the rear of the car. Instead of patching the panels for the spare tire well, I ordered the pieces to just spot weld them together. Should make for a clean repair and then I can weld it all to the body. Will be nice to wrap that up and get the rest of the interior installed. I also have 6 sets of seatbelts on the way so that I can start enjoying the car with my family!

Cheers,
Ryan

[Liams69RS]

Yet another fantastic build coming out of your garage! Can’t wait to see more and more progress

[Way2qwk4u]

Getting closer every time. Taking the family out is always a great time and making memories. Keep it up.

[ryeguy2006a]

Thanks man, I'm getting very close now. I can't wait to get take them out for the first time. I placed an order for some seatbelts and other misc. parts, so I'm hoping sometime over the next few weeks I can get those installed and we can take a legitimate drive to a Cars and Coffee!

Thanks FedEx...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/06/53766677384_33b5e6e14e_b-1.jpg

By some miracle everything was still in the box. Really have no idea how that happened since there were small pieces in there.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/06/53766770130_42b2b7b584_b-1.jpg

Next was getting the spare tire well installed for good. I thought that it was going to be a pretty quick job, but I was quite wrong as usual. Here's what I started with. The tub is in great shape, but the flange that gets spot welded to the body left a lot to be desired. Overall it was worth saving though. Here's what I started with.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/06/53765509912_d22d0d2970_b-1.jpg

The sides were in the worst condition and Golden Star sells the new sides, so I grabbed that kit to make my life easier.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/06/53766352181_22c7b31c69_b-1.jpg

Carefully stripped off the rusted pieces and cleaned up the flanges.

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I cut off the front right flange as it was too far gone and just needed to cut out. I used the piece I cut off as a template for some new metal. I'm still working on my welding position and feel for the TIG welder, but I'm starting to get better. I dipped it a few times in part because of the shape of this piece I was welding out of position and because it was late at night, I couldn't sharpen anymore. My gaps were tight enough that in some spots I didn't need to add filler.

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Next up was test fitting the panels. I took some mental notes on how the original pieces were installed so that I could replicate it with the new panels.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/06/53766351921_2b032bf348_b-1.jpg

I had to make some minor adjustments, but the the first test fit went fantastic. One tip I'd give is to measure the opening on the car first, then make sure it was slightly narrower so it fit into the groove. That's the only adjustment I needed to make before I put it back in.

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Fully welded now, with spot weld holes drilled.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/06/53766351901_a027651b29_b-1.jpg

I cleaned up all the surface rust and sprayed it with rustoleum paint. For anyone that hasn't used those Turbo Cans, you have to try them. They work so well and lay down very even coats. Must have for large flat areas.

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Once I was happy with the fitment, I burned it in. I probably should have done this a long time ago, but some strategically placed welding blankets saved the wheel well covers and glass.

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I wire brushed the spot welds and topped off with some flat black. I need to come back with some seam sealer and it will be a done deal.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/06/53766542863_d8089633aa_b-1.jpg

The last piece of sheet metal work that needs to be done is the lower filler panel that goes under the rear tailgate. I'll have to pull the tailgate off, so I've been putting it off. That's why the red weldthrough primer is still there and not sprayed black. Once the tailgate and bumper are off, it shouldn't take much to get it cut out and installed again. But that is for another day since I want to drive this car!

The last piece that I installed on the car was the rear liftgate garnish moulding. I haven't installed it because it requires an odd size screw 12-24 machine screw. Luckily the local hardware store had a few in stock, so I was able to buy what they had and at the very least install it so it wasn't kicking around the garage to get damaged. Needs to be cleaned up and painted at some point too.

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Back in November my wife and I commissioned a house to be built, and we are hoping to receive the Certificate of Occupancy this week. Assuming that happens my next few weekends will be moving boxes, unpacking, hanging pictures, and etc. So it's very likely that there will be little to no progress on the car. That said, between now and the end of the week, I'd really like to get the rear seats dyed, carpet laid down and seatbelts installed. Time will tell if I can get those things done!

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

The last month has been pretty busy for my family, but things are starting to settle down now. Before we completely moved out of our old house I was able to get the back seats dyed and reinstalled. I'm really happy with how they turned out. These seats were the last of my mis-matched interior parts!

After one light coat

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Second medium coat.

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I sprayed on another two coats, then moved onto the seat bottom and support rod.

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I let them dry for a few days before I handled them, although they were dry to the touch within about 30 minutes. Then it was time to get them installed in the car. With the move only days away, the best place for them to continue to dry was installed in the car. Huge transformation!!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/07/53789888920_eca0dd4381_b-1.jpg

Then I couldn't help myself and quickly installed one of the rear interior panels. I love how that interior turned out. Can't wait to get all of the chrome polished up and installed. Will completely change the look.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/07/53789471951_8c975bff95_b-1.jpg

Before I knew it moving day arrived! Our new house is only about 10 minutes away from the old house, so I loaded up the Nomad with a bunch of parts and bins. Coolest moving truck ever!

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The new garage is 2' wider and deeper than my old garage which is noticeably larger. Oh and since I had some input on the garage, I upgraded the outlets from 1 single in the old garage, to 7 20 amp 110v and a single 50 amp 220v :). One of the reasons that we moved was to have more space around our house and have a much bigger yard. We accomplished all of those with the new house and as a bonus, there is enough room to install a nice detached garage someday in the future.

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https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/07/53803415362_b893406fc3_b-1.jpg

Got the place more organized and was able to tuck the car into it's new parking spot!

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That brings me up to this weekend. I'm finally over the hump for installing shelves, pictures, painting and etc. to get some time to work on the car. I ordered some alignment plates and caster/camber gauges online and will attempt to put a rough alignment on the car. I called around to several shops and they weren't interested in working on a car this old. Huh... I should be able to get it pretty close. My initial measurements were the car was toed out 1"! That would explain why it pulled so hard to the right. Should be quite a bit better now. Also while I was under the car I found my front shocks are blown out. Got some work to do before this weekends Cars and Coffee! Oh and Happy Independence Day!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/07/53836687426_523a27a268_b-1.jpg

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

The steering links had been replaced at some point, but it must have been a while because the adjusters were pretty stubborn. It took a lot of heat and penetrating oil, but they finally freed up and allowed me to get the toe set. My initial reading was 1" toe out! Yikes. That would explain why it was pulling so badly, but honestly I'm surprised that it drove as well as it did. I set the toe in to about 1/16" as a baseline to see how that would be. Took the car out on my lunchbreak and it was amazing how much lighter the steering was. It still pulled slightly to the right, but was 90% better.

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My goal is to get all of the factory gauges to operate, so I'm going to try out the 3 wire temp sensor. I ran the wires inside the car and the next time I have my gauges out I'll wire it up.

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It's a little thing, but I found a guy online who sells keychains in the profile of your car so I reached out. At the time he didn't have one for a '55 Nomad, but about a month later he sent a message that it was complete. I placed an order the same day. Turned out great!

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I've put quite a few short trips on the car now, and wanted to take it on a longer trip about 30 mins away to the Cars and Coffee in Charlottesville. I've been driving it around with no rear shocks because I was too lazy to repair the broken stud on the passenger side, but finally bit the bullet. Really didn't take that long and installed the new shocks. I didn't get any pictures, but I also found out the front shocks were completely blown out so I swapped those out two for a pair of new shocks. It was a late night and working early in the morning to get it all done, but now has a complete suspension and decent alignment.

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New shock stud.

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I worked right up until the time that I left for the C&C cruise in, and was immediately impressed with how much better it handled even without a sway bar. Very happy camper! It's hard to see in the picture, but I got a premium spot right next to a very cool original paint '57 hardtop Bel-Air. I parked the car and there was an almost immediate crowd around the car, but I had to get some breakfast but turned to snap this picture. Pretty cool it got that much attention.

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That was one of the largest Cars and Coffee's that I'd seen at that location. Lots of cool JDM cars showed up too. One was a legit '99 GTR fresh from Japan! I've always loved those cars and this was the first time I'd gotten to see one in person. Really cool. And I LOVE the color of the NSX in the pictures.

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Really great show and got to talk with a bunch of cool people. It's funny how the LS swaps really aren't impressive anymore, but again the #1 question I received was what brake booster I was running. People had a hard time comprehending a Tesla brake booster on a Bel-air haha.

My boys have been really excited to get a chance to ride in the car, so Sunday morning I decided it was time to break out the carpet and see if I could make it happen. I laid out the carpet in the sunshine for a few hours, as I got the front seat pulled out to prepare for installation. Took a little while to get it exactly where I wanted it, but the ACC carpet was a really nice fit overall. I've only ever used a one piece carpet, but the multiple pieces actually helped with fitment to give you more wiggle room. Huge added bonus was the carpet came with a thick jute backing which I didn't think was part of this kit. It was about 95* installing the carpet, so I really didn't grab many pictures.

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Once I was happy with the placement of the carpet, I started marking the holes for drilling. I drilled the first hole and it pulled some of the thread with it, and was immediately upset. Then I remembered one of the car shows I watched mentioned using a soldering iron to melt a hole rather than drilling and it worked AMAZINGLY well. I did the rest of the holes that way and won't ever drill again.

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Next up was test fitting the rear seatbelts. I ended up going with a 60" for the rear and 74" for the front. Gave me the perfect amount of slack both front and rear. It took me a few minutes to figure out where I wanted to drill the holes, but once I got on a roll it went pretty quickly. I used some of the Allstar plates on the bottom side for extra protection.

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I used the booster seats for mock up and the fit great. I installed 3 pairs of seat belts so I can always take a 5th passenger. I got rolling and forgot to install the middle seatbelt in the front, but I do have one that I can install fairly quickly since I'll use the same holes for the inner lap belts.

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I would have liked to install them under the seat more, but there's a crossmember under the pan and that's as far forward as I could go.

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I bought this blanket when I was 16 in Mexico, and found a perfect use for it! I'll run like this until I buy a new seat cover down the road. Or maybe I won't I do like the way it looks haha.

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I was able to finish just in time for dinner and then we all went to get some ice cream for dessert. Took the long way home for about a 35 mile drive. It cruises so nicely down the highway, and took it up to about 75 at one point to pass a car. Passed the test and performed flawlessly, with one exception which was the transmission temperature was slowly creeping up as we drove along. A few months ago I bypassed the cooler as a temporary measure to get it running/driving and not leaking. I only need two fittings to plumb in the cooler, so I'll be placing an order at some point this week. I'm really pleased with the car overall and has come such a long way since I bought it not quite 2 years ago.

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

I really debated back and forth on what to do about my gauges on the car. My first thought was mounting one of the Holley 6.86" Pro Dashes in the stock opening. They are super functional and customizable, but quickly came to the conclusion that it doesn't fit well with the vibe I'm going for. Next was possibly one of the RTX gauges from Dakota Digital, but didn't really want to fork over that much cash right now. By then I narrowed it down to using the stock gauge cluster with fuel, engine temp and speedometer. Fuel was easy since I used a stock tank and sender. Engine temps should work fine using the 98 Camaro 3 wire temp sensor, but the tricky part was getting my factory cable driven speedo to work with the 4L80e. My choices were either the Dakota Digital cable box that drives the cable using the VSS signal from the transmission or a mechanical tail shaft conversion. After talking with quite a few people and reading on the forums, I decided against the DD box in favor of the tail shaft conversion. There were several manufacturer's out there, but the one that I went with had the best price and his service has been outstanding. I went with http://t56cablespeedometer.com/, and have been very pleased.

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https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/07/53858704325_3995b28168_b-1.jpg

The process was very straightforward. Remove the current tailshaft housing, install the drive gear adapter on the output shaft, then reinstall the modified housing. The hardest part was waiting for the Loctite to dry haha.

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Dan recommends putting Loctite on the set screws and letting it dry 24 hours. At 24 hours and 1 minute I was installing the modified tailshaft housing. I was able to get it swapped out in time to go to the C&C in my town, so it was a pretty quick drive. Got up to 65 mph and it worked great and just as accurate as my Holley speed output. Love having the original Speedometer working. Just need to hook up the wires for my temp sensor and I'll be in business. Once I dial in the tune for the car I'll put the 3.5" screen in the glove box.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/07/53858654399_4998e8acbc_b-1.jpg

In total cruising around this past weekend I have about 45 miles on the car since my odometer now works. I'm excited to see how many miles I can put on the car this year. Might be time to change the plugs and dial in the tune!

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

Just thought I'd update the thread since it's been a few weeks. Really not much to report other than I'm racking up lots of miles with the new functional speedometer. So far I'm just over 200 miles since installing the speedo, and I'd guess another 50 prior to getting it functional.

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License Plate ahead of me said "BSMILEY" and certainly made me smile that day! Love driving this car.

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Parked it outside for a while and found this little guy on the quarter panel. Pretty neat little bug.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/08/53920652681_dd0aeeca15_b-1.jpg


We made a trip north to visit family, and finally got a chance to drive my father-in-law's beautiful 1956 Belair. We got the cars at roughly the same time and it's cool to ride/drive his to compare. We took it out for a joy ride and came across a cruise-in/festival. Stopped there for some ice cream and then went on our way.

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My older son had a little fun with the fake dynamite from the trunk of his car haha.

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It was a great trip, but after driving his car I know that mine needs some upgrades to get a better ride quality. My car rides decent, but I'm making a list for all the things that I'd like to upgrade. The rear suspension is high up on my list, but while I'm there I want to upgrade the rear differential since the stock 55-57 axles break around 300-350 hp. So while I was in NY, I was cruising the classifieds as I usually do and found a 9" from a 64 Thunderbird. It is 60" wide with a small 5x4.50" bolt pattern, but also has small bearings, 28 spline axles, open diff and 3.00 gears. It was a bit of an impulse buy and after searching around a bit more, I may just sell this and get a new housing since I'll need to replace most of it anyway go get what I want.

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I had considered doing away with the leaf springs and building a 4 link setup, but not sure I want to invest that much time into it. I'm now leaning towards just getting the spring pocket kit to inboard the springs along with some new bushings for the stock springs. I think with new bushings and shackles it will make a big difference in the rear end.

I haven't done any work to the car at all, but was able to determine that my cooling fan doesn't work for a few different reasons, but as long as I'm driving it will maintain 187-189 temps. Just can't idle too long or the temps will creep up. I wired up the fan just the way I got it, but soon realized it was spinning the opposite direction as well as the shroud has large openings on the side where the air bypasses the cooling fins. I thought about fixing all of the problems, but by the time I modify it all it's still not an ideal setup. I picked up a C7 cooling fan and shroud, so I'll be installing that this week and also while I'm in there I'll add the much needed transmission cooler. I'll attach the C7 fan very similarly to how I did on my Camaro and that should help out significantly. Nice thing about Holley is that I just update my cooling fan output from -negative, to PWM and tell it what to do. I'll post more on that though when I get to that stage.

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

I had a very productive weekend and buttoned up some bigger lingering issues that were stopping me from driving the car longer distances. I was planning to use the 2017 Camaro SS fan (19" Spal w/ 850 watt brushless motor, 4k+ cfm) that I bought a while ago, but it's too big to run with the stock radiator, so I had to figure something else out. I was looking back at some old picture of the C7 fan that I put on my old Camaro and the dimensions were perfect. After a few days of searching, I found a guy who sold me his stock take off 500 watt Spal fan assembly for cheap. I was hoping to find the 600 watt, but this will still be a significant upgrade over what I have now.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/08/53933329344_57090dce53_b-1.jpg

Old Perma-cool vs. the new C7

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The old fan was very close to the water pump, so I had to be at least this far from the cooling fins to avoid touching the water pump.

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I knew going into this that the C7 fan has a deep shroud at over 5" including the tab on the top of motor.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/08/53932092197_238ff182f1_b-1.jpg[/url]

I had to modify the shroud in exactly the same way when I installed it on my Camaro, so this wasn't news to me. Thankfully the engineers at GM have some ribs on the inside that are almost like depth cuts around the entire inner perimeter of the fan. So I cut using the rib that was 1.5" and it was a perfect fit depth wise.

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Then I trimmed off the extra cylinders on the sides of the fan shroud to give me a good flat place to build brackets off. I had some 1/8" aluminum sheet and whipped up a few brackets. Used some 1/4" pop rivets and we're in business.

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I was never a big fan of the raw aluminum radiator, so while I had it off, it was a great time to make it look more stock. Topped it off with a few coats of flat black, and turned out great!

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While I was in there, I decided to spray the stainless trim panels that were on the car when I bought it. You could see them through the grill and not a good look in my opinion.

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I forgot to get a new depth from the cooling fins, but I ended up gaining some room overall so I'd say it had to be closer to 3". Love the new look!

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I knew long term that I'd be running one of these Spal fans, so while I was cruising eBay about 1.5 years ago, I saw someone selling the pigtail for one of these fans from a '17 Camaro. The new Terminal kits that you buy are bright blue, so this will be much less conspicuous. Also, found the leftover 8 ga wire from my Camaro so that was a win! I bought a 70 amp Bussmann breaker, but it didn't show up in time. I just temporarily wired it up and will have to go back to install that soon.

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Once I got the wiring done, I turned to my tune. I had to swap out the -ground output to a -PWM signal to run the new brushless fan. What I love about the brushless fans is that they have a soft start built into them, so no huge amp draw at startup and that they run on a duty cycle. In other words, it's set up more like a throttle where I can command 20% when it only needs 20% which pulls significantly less amps. Here's a screenshot of my table if anyone is curious.

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I also added three conditions for the fan to kick on. The first one is obvious, the second is so that the fan doesn't run key on engine off, and the third is because with a fan on over about 40 mph it actually becomes a restriction.

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Also, while I was messing with cooling I added a transmission cooler. I just had it looped initially just to get the car up and going, but this cooler is very necessary on the 90*+ days.

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It was sort of a mad scramble at the end, but I was able to button everything up and get it running in the driveway to see how the temps would react. As soon as the temps hit 202*, the fan kicked on around 25% duty cycle. I had to actually watch because I couldn't hear the fan over the engine, and I watched the temps get up to about 204*, then drop back to 198* in about 30 seconds. Very happy with this! I also performed the rag test. That was at around 25-30% duty cycle and it was pulling the rag almost flat. Still has about 50% more!

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[ryeguy2006a]

Part 2

Now that I have a proper fan that works fantastic in the driveway, it was time to give it a stress test and put some road miles on the car with 90* temps. The family and I were excited to take the car around for some longer trips. We drove south on Route 29 for about 20 minutes with a mix of highway speed, and traffic lights. The temps used to creep up at a stop light then drop back down to normal operating temp. Now, it keeps the temps between 198-205* even at 90* outside. I was hoping that the cooler I had would have kept the trans at a slightly lower temperature, but it hovered right around 170-175 the duration of the trip. Before towards the end of a 25 minute trip it would creep a little above 200* which is no good. So for that it's a win because the temps took much longer to creep up and normalized at a much lower temp. I was hoping to see it more in the 150* range, so I'll see if there's something I can do to make that better. Otherwise, she's ready to drive anywhere.

Snapped this photo at parking lot across from a coffee shop we stopped at.

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Then on the way home I noticed there was a car show at a local High School, so we swung in to check it out. The registration folks were being difficult because I didn't pre-register, so we just parked in with the boring cars haha.

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It was a great show, with a lot of Tri-5's, cool patina cars/trucks and one cool LS swapped wagon! I think I need a surf board now. It's funny though, outside of Instagram and sites like this you hardly ever see LS swapped older cars/trucks.

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Great shot of my older son's mullet! He loves that haircut haha

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Great show and although we all got pretty hot with the temps creeping up to 95* with no AC in the old Nomad we still had fun. While I was in update mode a few nights ago, I hooked up the 98 Camaro temp sensor wire to the factory 1956 temp gauge my father in law gave me. I thought that it either didn't work, or the ohm range wasn't right for the gauge. Well on the way home I looked down and the gauge was working now. Must have been stuck or something, but now works just like it should. Center dot is about 190* and the far right dot is about 200*, so that gives me a good idea of where the temp is.

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Not sure what the next project will be on the car, but for not she's pretty much ready to roll whenever I decide to drive it. Pretty stoked about that. We put another 100 miles on it this weekend, so that's pretty cool.

Cheers,
​​​​​​​Ryan

[Steve68]

When you get the surfboard, just remember to put the fins towards the front, from a life long surfer who's carried boards up and down the east coast of the USA, and Florida,

people with boards that don't surf reverse the board, like the wagon pic you posted, very common, girl with a bug in the neighborhood does the same thing, we as surfers shake our heads,

and yes I had surf racks on my first 68 Camaro in high school, for a time, then I'd just put it in the car,

[thedugan]

If you are going todo the surf board try to find one of these. You seem to be really good at finding stuff out there on the internet or at swap meets,

Nomad Surf Shop- Passing Of A Legend - Florida Surf Museum (https://floridasurfmuseum.org/spot/nomad-surf-shop-passing-of-a-legend)

[ryeguy2006a]

I appreciate the tip Steve! Every single person at the car show would say first thing that the surfboard is on backwards, and I'll just tell them my ole surfer buddy let me know what's up!

You're right Doug, I'll definitely need a Nomad board if I'm going to do that. I need to get one of those stickers for my car too!

[ryeguy2006a]

Making this post to catch up from the last few weeks. Just when I thought I had all the bugs worked out, the gas gauge threw me a curve ball. Apparently the ground signal comes from the tank straps, and was getting an inconsistent ground which led me to run out of fuel. While walking 2.5 miles back to my house I had time to think and realized that I never added a dedicated ground strap.

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Walked back to the house and got more gas, then topped off at the gas station. This guy followed me in and loved the car. Talked for a few minutes and come to find out he's practically my neighbor! Beautiful 70 Nova.

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Just some random pictures from driving around. Got coffee in the morning and parked in front of this beautiful 67 RS Camaro! Looked remarkably similar to my old 68.

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I need better cup holders!

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My stock rear started leaking out of the driver side axle, so I may need to swap these out sooner than later. I really don't want to put anymore money into the weak stock rear. So I got motivated and worked to pull apart the 9" that I got a while back to see what I had. Turns out it's a Posi with Big outer axle bearings. Although I'm pretty sure the posi is worn out since it seems pretty weak.

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One of the first times that I filled the car up, it smelled pretty badly of fuel in my garage. So I was just keeping it below a certain level because I thought it was from a bad filler neck seal. Turns out it was leaking from the sender, so I pulled that and resealed it. I filled it back up, and didn't seem to get any fuel smells like I did, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed what I did worked.

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I also buttoned up some things that were bothering me. Terrible I know, but the PCV on the passenger side was open to the elements since I got the car running. Truth be told, I forgot all about it. Since I didn't want to drill into the CAI, I decided to add a 1/8" NPT brass pipe into the plastic filter adapter, so I could get clean filtered air to the valve cover. Worked out great.

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Next up was the car didn't have an overflow jug. It was spraying a little coolant all over my newly painted radiator. I dug around and found the old overflow jug that I pulled off of my Camaro. I made a bracket and mounted it to the core support. Hard to see, but it tucked into the engine compartment out of the way.

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I finished up the install of the PCV hose and overflow jug late morning yesterday and then we took the family on a nice cruise through the countryside. No real destination, but we stopped at a playground for the kids. Had a great time and then we got lunch. Car ran and performed excellent.

I had one pesky tuning quirk that had been sort of intermittent, but after talking with @Project GatTagO I got it all straightened out. First time dealing with DBW and I had my initial pedal vs throttle table set up to start at 5%, but needed to be bumped up to 7%. I had it backwards in my head (think idle screw on a carb or TB) and was lowering it to raise lower the IAC counts, but the throttle blade needed to be opened more, so the IAC counts would lower. Once that was corrected, the car drove so much better. It was stalling at stop lights every so often, and would run a much lower rpms on deceleration.

I also made a bit of an impulse purchase after seeing some of these universal fans on eBay. They are 18" Spal fans with 850 watt brushless motors in a universal shroud. I bought one and the guy sent a personal message that he'd sell me another one for very cheap. Ended up with two. Unfortunately, they won't fit my current radiator, but the hope is to upgrade my radiator setup in the future when I go turbo and add A/C. I'll be sure that the radiator will work with one of those fans. But for now the C7 fan works flawlessly to keep my engine right where I set it to.

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That brings me up to yesterday. Really enjoying this car and glad to be out and about with it. Hope everyone had a good Labor Day.

Cheers,
​​​​​​​Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

I've been talking now for several months with a friend who lives about 3 hours from me to plan a trip to meet in the middle at the Richmond, VA Cars and Coffee cruise-in. I've gotten enough road miles on my car that I was confident in taking the 150 mile round trip that a good portion is on the interstate. In preparation for the trip, I gave the car a once over to make sure everything was in good working order as well as addressing some items I've been putting off. First up was making sure that I had proper functional headlights and some courtesy lights since I was going to be leaving for the cruise-in before the sun rose. I was also tired of all of the interior panels laying around my garage, and decided it was time to install those. I had to have the courtesy lights installed first, before I could install the panels though.

First step was getting the garnish mouldings cleaned up and installed. I used the same process for the door mouldings, sanded it all down, etching primer, high build primer, sand, high build, then topped with SEM Trim Black. Fair amount of sanding, but it turned out great. The trick with the high build is to let it bake in the sun for several hours to fully cure. With the door mouldings, I didn't do that and it would gum up my sandpaper. Didn't do it this time.

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Next up was getting the courtesy lights working. Grabbed some #1004 bulbs and fooled around a bit then finally got them working. The original door switches were not rusty, but the passenger side was sticking. I have a tube of dialectical grease and squirted some into the drain holes and was able to free it back up. Now they both work great.

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After a bunch of polishing and planning, I was able to get all of the trim pieces back together on the interior panels. Then the easy part was drilling some holes and screwing in the panels. Very satisfying to get these installed after having them moved around my garage for months. These original panels cleaned up surprisingly well. Love using original parts when I can.

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Then, before I could install the passenger's side I had to run a new wire for the rear courtesy light switch in the back and swap out the side window. Once the side window was pulled out, I found the felt sliders to be in decent condition, but there was a screw that wasn't fully seated on the bottom which the glass was rubbing on. I got super lucky and was able to break it free with a pair of vice grips and put a new screw in below the felt line so it was a smooth operation now. The upper felt was also in good shape, but was too loose and rattled around while driving. I pulled it out, squeezed it back together and no more rattles and very smooth sliding.

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Now that was taken care of I was able to get the passenger side installed. I also sprayed some flat black on the rear garnish mouldings and installed those quickly. I need to pull them back off and sand down and spray with the same Trim Black paint so it all matches, but looks way more complete.

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Lastly, I installed the headlights. They straightforward since I already ran the wiring up to them. I bought a set of H4 conversion bulbs a while ago that I had wanted to try out. They were off of some sort of Toyota/Lexus car and have a replaceable H4 bulb in a glass housing. They are very bright and look great. I wasn't sure how I'd feel about the flat front, but I don't even notice it now.

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Then Friday night, I was giving the car a final once over and realized that in 1955 the headlight switch worked a bit differently. The parking lights in the front shut off when the headlights are on, but the tail lights will stay on when you pull the lights into the first park position. Well I had apparently switched those two wires, so I had front lights, but no tail lights! Not good when you are driving at night. So I had to pull the dash cluster to access the headlight switch. Pretty easy swap, but after I switched them, I didn't have any turn signals! WTF, I didn't even touch that part! Well after chasing my tail, I realized that the ignition switch has to be on before you get signals... With that all fixed, I turned the tail lights on to check signals and nothing. Again, they were working WTF! Well after taking a step back, I realized that I had my wiring switched in when I wired up the tail light sockets. Easy fix, just swapped the wires and we were all good. At about 1am, I finally put the bow on it and it was ready for the trip!

Started out a little after 6am and headed eastbound. Call me crazy, but I had a little conversation with the car right before we pulled onto the interstate haha. Everything was perfect the whole way. We got up to cruise at about 75 and we just hummed along. Couldn't have asked for anything more!

Got to the show and met up with Rich. I've communicated with him for years online, but was great to meet up in person. He's got a beautiful 1975 Trans Am that he's had for years. I remember his car from when I was building my first car; 1976 Trans Am.

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It was a great turnout with lots of exotics, Corvette's, and a very really rare cars. This Pantera was gorgeous!

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There was also a 1968 Camaro that Caught my eye. Had a BBC with an intake I'd never seen before. I'm told it may have been a Marine intake, but this guy used just about every square inch of his engine bay. Sounded really good too.

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Then we headed home and the same deal, car performed perfectly. Got tons of thumbs up and waves on the highway. I rolled the speedometer over to 47k on the way home, but by my estimates I hit just over 1k miles since I got it back together. Really cool milestone.

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Then on Sunday I wanted to get the car in the driveway and give it a proper wash, polished the wheels and cleaned all the dust off of the windows. It's true what they say, you really can polish a turd!

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I finally installed the last tailgate bar that I bought back in April at Carlisle.

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So happy with the way the interior turned out. Not bad for some elbow grease, SEM Vinyl Dye and original parts!

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My wife really wanted to get out for a Sunday drive, so we loaded up the family and topped it off with gas. Drives just like any other car I have, and gets about 20mpg when I calculated on the trip. I didn't get a picture, but I also relocated my MAT/IAT sensor from laying on the top of the intake manifold, to installed in the CAI tube. Now it reads actual temps instead of engine heat! Probably should have done that a long time ago.

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About a week and a half ago, I also picked up another piece to my turbo puzzle. I spec'd out a new 3200 stall converter from FTI that will work really well with boost, and should wake up the car while I drive it N/A for now. I also picked up their transmission pan that I'm hoping will help drop the temps a few degrees. Thanks Norb for the Summit Coupon! The converter was on sale for labor day, and they knocked an additional 10% off with that coupon. Sweet double savings there!

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Hoping to get the converter swapped out soon. Hoping to just remove and replace one night when I get the motivation to tear into a fully functional car haha.

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

I didn't get anything done on the car last weekend as I spent all day Saturday and part of Sunday morning aerating and spreading 950 lbs. worth of grass seed, fertilizer and fast acting lime.

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After recovering for a few days, I started to get the car ready to pull the transmission to get the converter swapped out and fix the pan leak. Nothing like tearing apart a fully functional car in the name of Hot Rodding!!

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This was the easy part!

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Upon further inspection, I found some serious wear on the pilot hub on the torque converter and matching wear on the adapter! That's no good. I'm not sure if it was in that condition when I installed it and didn't notice, or if it was when I first got the engine running and ran it disconnected from the converter. Either way, I'm glad I pulled the converter now! Very well could have been that shuddering feeling it had.

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Now that the transmission was out, I transferred it to my engine stand to get it drained of all the old oil.

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I also started researching what other guys were doing in conjunction with their converters, and almost everyone said a shift kit of some sort. I found a lot of guys talking about different kits, but the one that stood out to me was the TransGo HD2 kit. I didn't want to tear into the transmission too far, but this seemed manageable, so I pulled the trigger on that too. One of these scenarios, "While I'm in there I might as well ______."

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I've never torn into an automatic transmission before, so this is all new for me. I watched a few YT videos on people installing the HD2 kits, and they weren't too bad. So grabbed a latte and off we go.

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Looked pretty clean to me.

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The directions were very clear, and you just follow them to a T. Directions had me removing and swapping out different springs, valves or other items. I had to modify the one internal filter after I added a different plug, and then had to drill a few holes. Again, instructions were very clear and pictures were detailed. Pretty straightforward, but was intimidating until I actually got in there.

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It's always good to take pictures before you tear into something, especially if you have never done it before. I looked back at the pictures I took of the transmission before I buttoned it all back up and noticed this little guy wasn't in the right spot. I had already torqued it all down, but so glad it wasn't in the car full of fluid when I realized it wouldn't shift into any gear! That little pin should be inside that plunger.

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All back together and ready to put the cover on. Notice the little TransGo plate. Not sure what that does, but it looks important.

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All down hill from here, or so I thought. Grabbed the new deep oil pan from FTI and LubeLocker gasket. Set it all on carefully and noticed immediately that something wasn't right. The adapter that sets the filter deeper into the pan was too long. Now, I'm not sure if that is my fault for running a thin gasket, or if there is a flaw in manufacturing. It was about 1/4" too deep and wouldn't allow the oil pan to sit flush.

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Took my measurements and then chucked it on my lathe. Love having this tool when I need it.

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Few minutes on the lathe and it fit just like it should. Should help bring the temps down with the larger capacity and cooling fins.

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More to come soon!

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

I had to split this up into two posts since there were a lot of pictures. Finally got to open the box! The converter that I went with is from FTI and it's their Street Racer Lock-up Series single disk billet unit. After talking with them and what I'm looking for out of the car, they recommended a 3200 stall unit. I'm hoping that this really wakes up the car.

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The new converter is significantly smaller than the stock truck unit. When I eyeballed the stock unit it came up around 14" diameter and the new unit is a 9.5". Should rev much easier with less rotating mass.

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Next up was to test fit the new converter on the flexplate per recommendation from FTI. They said as long as I have a minimum of 0.100" of engagement in the pilot/hub that it will be ideal. They recommended to test fit without the transmission installed. If I don't have enough engagement, there is a pilot adapter that came with it. Earlier last week I ordered a new GM spacer since the old one looked pretty worn out. Turns out that was a fantastic decision because the adapter somehow mushroomed out so much that I had to hammer a socket onto the bolts since it was 1/4" wider than it should have been! I had to clamp it back to round in my vice just to get it off of the flexplate.

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When you compare to the new unit you can really see how bad the old one was.

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After struggling quite a bit with how to get the adapter on the flexplate I realized why there were threaded holes. It helps to pull the adapter onto the adapter!

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With that back on I could move on to make sure I had enough engagement in the pilot. With the flexplate off I could very easily check the fitment. I was able to measure at least .400" with my caliper so I've got plenty of engagement.

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I didn't get anymore pictures since it was just me bolting up parts. I used my flywheel holding tool and torqued down the ARP bolts to 85lbs, then got the converter installed into the transmission. Filled it with 1 qt of the recommended Dex VI fluid which I'll be using in the transmission. I had a difficult time getting the 3 solid clunks, it went onto the first two quickly but the third was a challenge. I thought I heard a soft third and thought I had it and actually attempted to install the transmission, but as soon as I got a few bolts loosely into the transmission it was very clear it hadn't fully seated. Pulled it back out and then wobbled it and finally heard a third big clunk! Back up on the scissor jack and it went together quite smoothly. The transmission is bolted back to the motor and tightened. Right now it's just resting on the transmission mount because I ran out of steam at 1am. The rest should go pretty smoothly since I'm really just re-installing parts that I've already fit up; Exhaust, wiring, shift linkage, driveshaft and etc.

One other thing I want to do while the car is up in the air is build an exhaust hanger. Slightly embarrassed to say that it has been hanging up with some mechanics wire since I got the car back together. I've got all the parts, just need to break out the welder. I'm actually excited because this will be the first time using my welder at the new house with a 220v outlet! I timed this project too since it was forecasted to be so rainy and the storms are just about past us now, so I'm hoping I may be finished up by tomorrow evening and take the car out to see how I like the new setup.

Cheers,
Ryan

[TANKMASTERJ]

Cool build and looks like it's coming along great Ryan. I always.wamted a nomad to build. Maybe one day .one will fall in my lap.
I'll keep an eye on it.
Hopefully.ill get time to start a C10 thread soon

[ryeguy2006a]

Thanks! You should definitely post up some photos of your C10.

[ryeguy2006a]

Was finally able to upload the pictures and get this thread updated. After my last post, I finished up the exhaust hanger and buttoned up the rest of the car to get it out to see if the new converter made any difference. I thought on how I wanted to built the exhaust hanger for quite a while. I bought a kit with the rods like I welded to the tailpipe, but wasn't happy with how much slack there was. The isolator hole was about twice the diameter of the rod, so I found a bolt in my bin that had a tighter fit in the isolator, then turned it down to make a shoulder bolt that would tighten down on a factory exhaust hanger.

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Then after a bunch of test fits, I got the curvature right on the rod and welded it to the tail pipe. I had some high temp aluminum paint that matched almost perfectly with the aluminized coating on the tail pipe.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/10/54066159942_3afdaee272_b-1.jpg

It's got a nice snug fit with the slightest amount of upward pre-load to take the pressure off the manifolds. Really happy with how it turned out.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/10/54066869481_3cc3b4bd39_b-1.jpg

The new transmission pan hangs a bit lower than I would have liked, but my car isn't slammed, so it should be fine. I'm just more aware of it now over bumps and whatnot.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/10/54067267399_b759149450_b-1.jpg

After the tailpipe was finished, the car was ready to get off of the wheel stands and out for a test drive. I topped the transmission off with 10 quarts, but it wanted another 2 to get to the hot full line. I let the car idle in the driveway for a little while at first making sure to be in each gear for about 30 seconds so that the fluid could get all throughout the trans. Put it back in park and it was down about 2 quarts, so I topped it off and took the car out. The engine ran the same, but what I noticed immediately is that the throttle response was much better and the trans wasn't lazy going from forward to reverse. Took it down the road and when I was easy on the throttle, it drove pretty much the same. However, when I got on the throttle it was significantly more responsive and drove like a car instead of a truck! The car is way more fun to drive and feels much faster when you go WOT. It was a lot of work to get that transmission in and out, but it was worth it once I got behind the wheel. One other thing worth mentioning is that when I put the new transmission pan back on I used a Lube-Locker gasket. I've heard good things about them, and wanted to give it a try myself because my old pan wept fluid on my new concrete floor which irritated me. I'm happy to report after putting a few hundred miles on it, there isn't a drop on the cardboard I put under it.

My in-laws were coming in town shortly after I got the car back up and running and they wanted to go on a few rides. We went to a really nice winery up the road from us, Barboursville Vineyards, and had a great time.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/10/54067499215_aac622cc4c_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/10/54065996387_2bb2bd69b4_b-1.jpg

While we were driving around though, I started to smell gas fumes faintly. I wasn't sure what was going on because it was running so well. But after troubleshooting for a while, I think I found the cause. I was getting a significant amount of oil pooling in the intake, and the #8 cylinder looked to be fouled out. I'm not sure if the oil fouled it out, but it's certainly not great. I had another spare set of plugs so I swapped them in and it ran better without the fumes. I'm now in the market for a catch can and leaning towards an Elite Engineering unit.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/10/54067127463_003c870130_b-1.jpg

While my father-in-law was here we decided to tackle the rear wood floor for the wagon. I found a template online and we got to work.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/10/54067200139_7cd13dba69_b-1.jpg

I got busy and didn't take many pictures of the during process, but here's how it turned out. I'm very happy with how it turned out.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/10/54067200064_06f29e0275_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/10/54065996757_5e613653fa_b-1.jpg

Looks great, but really highlights the need for me to replace the carpet pieces on the upper and lower seats. The carpet kit I bought came with those pieces just need to find the time to replace them.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/10/54067333800_a82ea67da4_b-1.jpg

Feels good to have the car a little more complete, and up and running again. Hoping to figure out the PCV/oil issue, but I think that will be solved by adding a catch can.

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

Not much on the car other than driving it, but I did order some rear speakers and temporarily hooked up an old radio I had with some zip ties. The engine sounds great, but I do like some tunes while cruising and I know my family will appreciate it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/10/54083478726_4291f45a66_b-1.jpg

It's a cheap Android based radio, and has a lot of cool bells/whistles. There's even an option to hook up a rear mounted camera. I need a new background photo too.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/10/54082596967_1dc035eac5_b-1.jpg

Grabbed some super cheap 6x9 boxes that I was hoping would fit under the rear seat, but there's not a chance at all they will fit.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/10/54083812284_f75d382522_b-1.jpg

They fit here pretty nicely, and I can always remove them quickly if I need to fold the rear seats down.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/10/54083810124_1f3ea975b8_b-1.jpg

The other sort of car related update was the Lego that my son built for me to take to car shows. He looked a few pictures and came out with this after about an hour building. Very impressed!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/10/54082599437_1c61064fa3_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/10/54083728183_9838fa1f13_b-1.jpg

Hoping to get to some nice fall car shows over the next month or so.

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

The car has been running great since I got it up and running, but recently I've been having the car run a little rich. The tune looked good to me, and I didn't see where it was adding more fuel. I did some troubleshooting and noticed cylinder #8 was running cooler and when I pulled the plug it was damp. After a little more troubleshooting I confirmed I had a dead coil. A buddy of mine let me borrow some extra coils so that I could confirm, and sure enough that was the issue. I found some low mile coils online and should have those soon. For now he's letting me use these coils so I can keep running the car.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/11/54123989375_1f655baf74_b-1.jpg

When I was logging the car after the coil was swapped out, the learn table started pulling about 5% fuel out of the car so I think that it was running better. Then as I was reviewing the log data, I noticed that the AFR was bouncing around a ton. Something else is definitely going on. It should fluctuate, but not like this.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/11/54123875889_8ef7e8c37d_b-1.jpg

I also noticed that when I pulled a few plugs to see what the motor was doing, and I had quite a bit of oil on the threads. This generally means that there is oil being pulled into the engine either through valve seals or another method. It's pretty common for LS motors to pull oil from the valve covers, so I was pretty confident that was my issue. I pulled the intake and found a lot of oil. I'm thinking the combination of the PCV oil and a dead coil was the reason for the fuel smell.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/11/54117286383_0d8ecf8eb4_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/11/54116150867_6ffbeb5537_b-1.jpg

I have been running the DOD delete valley cover since I first got the engine together, but always thought I may need to swap it out for one with a built in PCV since this design pulls much less oil. Wow, didn't realize how high these had gotten in the used market! Last time I bought one it was in the $100 range, but now they are $250-300 now. I shopped around for a while and found a guy on LS1tech who sold me one for $100 bucks shipped. So I was stoked about that.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/11/54117286088_0f1358554d_b-1.jpg

Pulled the intake again so that I could get to the valley cover.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/11/54117475665_233c2ab9b4_b-1.jpg

While it was all apart, I inspected everything I could and it looked great. One thing I noticed though was all of the intake valves had pools of oil in them! Not sure why it all of a sudden started consuming oil, but that was surprising.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/11/54117284778_2efb75b97e_b-1.jpg

Pulled the old one and swapped the new one, then torqued it back up. Very simple swap since the LS motors are all gasketed. While the intake was off I cleaned out all of the oil with parts cleaner.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/11/54117343399_7a106f30ef_b-1.jpg

After I got the intake back on, I took the path of least resistance and reused the old PCV line that was on the intake originally. I was able to rotate 180* and just ran a hose down to the new valley cover. I didn't get a picture, but the tube that goes into the intake was tapered away from airflow so when I flipped it around it would have actually caught air into the tube. I back cut the taper in 180* so that it acted just like the stock piece. I'll likely change this tube anyway since I will be upgrading to a Holley intake at some point in the future. For now it works perfect and didn't cost a dime!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/11/54117286383_0d8ecf8eb4_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/11/54117285288_f82001909d_b-1.jpg

All back together. I did some WOT pulls so that I could get all of the oil out, and then did a datalog to see if the updates I made changed the AFR. Now the AFR isn't changing so rapidly, and I think is more inline with how it should be operating. I'm sure that there is still a bit of oil being pulled out of the intake, but I'm much happier with those curves.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/11/54117342714_1b22923884_b-1.jpg

Hoping to get some more miles on and read the plugs to see if that makes a difference in the longer term.

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

I have a few parts updates too. I picked up some inner fenders in great condition locally a few weeks ago. I've been slowly cleaning them up and hoping to get them installed very soon so that I can finish the wiring. The fan wiring is just looped on the battery and it drives me nuts when I open the hood. I recruited some help to get them disassembled.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/11/54067126433_2dc65b2759_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/11/54067199224_ec7e81f99d_b-1.jpg

I got the driver's side all cleaned up with a wire wheel and found a few spots that need to be repaired, but overall in great condition. I love using original parts when I can even if it takes a little more effort.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/11/54117284373_ea6da02854_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/11/54117284263_a76ba9f5bf_b-1.jpg

Browsing on eBay I found a guy who sells blemished parts and had a set of CPP C5 drop spindles and C7 hubs for a significant discount. I couldn't pass them up and pulled the trigger. Ever since I put the car together I wanted to drop the front, and this also solves my wheel stud issue as well since this comes with longer wheel studs. I've heard that the hubs that come with the CPP C5 kit are low quality, but these are the upgraded HD C7 version which are meant for autox. I haven't seen any reviews on those yet, so I figured I'd try them out. The parts look brand new and never installed so maybe they were display pieces or something. Hoping to collect more steering parts and get these installed soon with a pair of cheap tubular A-Arms.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/11/54117342984_d6e9224bc3_b-1.jpg

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https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/11/54116150292_92c2263f5b_b-1.jpg

Lastly, I decided to swap out the janky DIY shackles that came on my car. I thought they would be a quick install, but I was way wrong. This were a huge PITA. I thought I could just force them on and pop them down, but I ended up needing to pull the ubolts to give me enough room to swing the spring over and pop it on the shackle.

What I started with:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/11/54123988470_a32447fb36_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/11/54123874914_97cdc4ddd3_b-1.jpg

I bought some of the poly stock style shackles and made sure to lubricate them well.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/11/54123532176_a60f097588_b-1.jpg

What a mess. The stock bushings were toast, and there was quite a bit of rust in the leaf spring.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/11/54123874569_559ee0b152_b-1.jpg

After fighting with the spring for an hour or so I had to just walk away. Came back and realized that I just needed to remove the ubolts to give me enough room to swing it over. Worked like a charm, just ruined the ubolts in the process since they had been installed for a long time. I put the shackle in the top hanger, swung it down, then with the leaf spring loose, popped it on and installed the outer shackle and the two nuts. Sometimes you just have to walk away.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/11/54123987845_ab65cbd032_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/11/54123874074_351a1af408_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/11/54122684727_c8c9df92f4_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/11/54123807533_7e819a1f79_b-1.jpg

Very happy with the fitment, and the bonus was that it gave me roughly a 2" drop since the stock springs are so worn. Eventually I'll grab some drop springs, but for now, these will articulate much better and not clunk when I go around a corner.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/11/54123873904_2178a97434_b-1.jpg

Very pleased with the improvement in ride quality. The rear end definitely feels smoother when going around a corner or over bumps.

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

Here's a really cool picture someone took as I was leaving my local Cars and Coffee.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/11/54123915401_c64de6d4c4_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/11/54123915376_f080573502_b-1.jpg

Love the action shot!

[ryeguy2006a]

It's been a little while since I've had a meaningful update, but lots has happened. Several weeks ago I was able to get my car on the Chassis dyno. The local tuner had a Dyno Day where you pay for a few pulls. It was a lot of fun to see what the car could do after all the hard work I've put into it. I was hoping that it would make more power on the dyno, but regardless it's a great baseline. I think we can easily double that with some boost :).

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/12/54180910141_4d5b1afc70_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/12/54179903377_d0e7a5f7f6_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/12/54181059713_6dd529625c_b-1.jpg

I went back and forth a lot on what to do with the front suspension because the control arms are quite worn. They have begun to squeak after I drive around for about 20 mins, so it was time to do something. I submitted a lowball offer on eBay to a set of the cheap tubular control arms, and they accepted. They were cheaper than it would be if I tore my stock parts and replaced with new bushings and ball joints. I know that they are copies, so there is also some steering benefits to the increased caster and camber curve.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/12/54181059508_9f79a5d1df_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/12/54181078749_889679a55f_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/12/54181225495_1a25de8c4e_b-1.jpg

I started by pulling off the C5 brakes that I'll be re-using to get down to the stock spindles with 61-68 Impala hubs. The caliper brackets are from Kore3 and I'll be selling those to offset my project costs.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/12/54181225495_1a25de8c4e_b-1.jpg

I used the weight of the car and a safety chain to pull the stock springs which I'll be reusing.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/12/54179902902_a21416299f_b-1.jpg

First test fit of the tubular arms and the CPP C5 drop spindles. Everything fit decent out of the box. I did need to drill out the upper control arm cross shafts once size up since they were too tight to slide on out of the box. Not sure if it was a metric vs. SAE issue, but after they were upsized, the arms slid right on. Once they were fit up, I did need to give the front side of the brace several taps with the BFH so it didn't contact the upper tube. Otherwise, I was pleased with the fitment out of the box.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/12/54180785916_d8381fde89_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/12/54181059378_6b4fcb9a3f_b-1.jpg

Once I determined that everything fit properly, I cleaned up and painted the spindles and hubs. They had a bit of surface rust and wanted to install clean parts.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/12/54181059233_af0eedc5e2_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/12/54179902747_9f17d92d17_b-1.jpg

Once everything was cleaned and painted it was time to do a final install. I had everything laid out and ready to go. It's so much more fun to install clean new parts than working with old crusty parts. Although the stock springs are used and unknown, I sprayed them with a little leftover Torch Red touch up paint I had from my Camaro. No performance advantage, but it does look cooler.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/12/54181078389_3e4b151518_b-1.jpg

After fighting with trying to reinstall the spring using the floor jack method, I had to go and rent a spring compressor from AutoZone.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/12/54179902597_d451d6a9e7_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/12/54179902612_bf51977d91_b-1.jpg

Now for those that have a keen eye, you may have noticed that the Kore3 brackets installed the calipers on the leading side of the spindle, but the CPP mounts are on the trailing side. This means that if I was to mount the calipers, my bleeders would be pointing down which is no good for future bleeding. I had to swap sides which wasn't a huge deal, but the driver's side required me to shorten the hardline since I had to make them a little longer initially to use the stock C5 brake Hoses. I just worked quickly and methodically to minimize the fluid loss and it worked out great. I even remembered to put the flare nut on so I didn't have to cut off and try again haha.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/12/54181224870_9e5c912c3d_b-1.jpg

That was pretty much it. I didn't get any pictures of me reinstalling the rotors and brakes, but they were already broke in so it was just replacing the existing parts I had once I swapped calipers.

This is the picture I took when I installed the stock shackles that lowered the rear pretty substantially, but hadn't touched the front yet.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/12/54179903422_0ccaa71354_b-1.jpg

With the new 2" drop springs. I was expecting a bit more of a drop, but I only have about 5 miles on the setup so the springs should settle a bit with more driving. If not, I may cut a half coil out and see what that gets me.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/12/54181058928_57504d1bab_b-1.jpg

Can't really comment on any added performance steering benefits until I get my alignment dialed in. Initial thoughts are it does seem to handle better and I don't notice quite as much body roll.

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

Been a few weeks since my last update, but haven't had any real progress on the car. I did find a great tool that I think everyone working on older cars should put in their toolbox. It's an attachment that goes on an air hammer that allows you to put on a socket. I used it for the frozen stuck Philips head bolts on my tailgate hinges and was able to loosen all 8 without breaking them off. Absolutely amazed. I picked mine up at Harbor Freight. Once it was loosened, I was able to adjust the tailgate for a better fit.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/01/54249335517_2a93816f50_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/01/54249335552_d0bc1429b0_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/01/54250231871_402b74f2e0_b-1.jpg

If you haven't noticed a common theme in my build, I'm a sucker for a good deal and like to buy things used when I can. Back before Thanksgiving I found a guy who posted on a different forum a bunch of parts for sale including an LS6 intake which piqued my interest because he was only about an hour and 20 mins from me. He didn't post a price or a really detailed list of parts either, but it was enough that I messaged him. I was stoked when he got right back to me with a very reasonable $600 bucks. It was a fantastic deal and I made arrangements to pick it up as soon as I could. Come to find out he had a ton of either brand new or very lightly used parts. He sold his car in 2015, but many of the parts were bought back in 2005-08 timeframe. When I got there he actually found even more parts, but didn't charge more.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/01/54179902507_3c756d73b3_b-1.jpg

When I got home and took inventory of what all I had picked up. Brand new NOS LS6 intake manifold, brand new NOS SLP Headers with Y pipe for 98-02 LS1 cars, SLP Loudmouth exhaust for 4th gen, NOS front and rear Bilstein shocks with Eibach springs, Ported 853 LS1 heads, Hypertech LS1 tuner, brand new Actron Scanner, bunch of misc. gaskets, Gen3 LS ARP head studs, complete LS1 rocker set, factory push rod set, pair of SLP 3" high flow cats, and a few books/manuals for 2000 Fbody Cars. It also came with a supposedly new GM ASA cam, but wasn't greased when he stored it and it was severely rusted. Overall was blown away with how many parts and the best part is they were all stored in a dry basement.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/01/54181224790_b5c084913b_b-1.jpg

That intake was probably the coolest find. NOS intake from 2006!!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/01/54163939749_2405c2fe53_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/01/54164084735_8efb5df264_b-1.jpg

SLP Headers

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/01/54167135719_0aabc22fbe_b-1.jpg

The guy told me that he just wanted to get rid of everything at once, so he didn't even care if I resold them all. So with that in mind, I knew that most of the parts didn't fit my application so I was going to move them. I listed several parts right away with what I felt were appealing prices recoup some of my money. In a few days the shocks/springs sold for $300, and then the next day the scanner sold for $100. At this point, I was almost to the point where I had free parts which is probably the coolest thing. I also love to barter, so I put several feelers out there for items that I'd like to have. I found a guy who swapped me even for the SLP headers and Y pipe for a pair of fresh LS3 821 heads with lightweight valves. Not sure what I'm going to do with them, but they are very clean and came with the rockers/stands/factory yellow valve springs.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/01/54179901967_8c2802cf77_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/01/54180785126_9fa390177f_b-1.jpg

After a bunch of thought, I realized that I didn't want to run the LS6 intake so I listed it locally on FB marketplace. I realize I could have likely held out for more money, but I listed it and had a cash offer within a day for $500 and took it. At this point, I'm in the positive for $300 bucks with a bunch of parts left to sell or trade. Score!!

I didn't have many bites on the ported LS1 heads, but had in the listing that I'd trade for LS parts. One guy offered to trade me a 6.0 for the ported heads plus a few extra parts (stock push rods, yellow valve springs, valley cover and LS1 rockers) that I was going to use. After talking with him more, he ended up giving me a single 823 head and a TBSS intake w/ TB too! Done deal, made that happen and got it back home. My youngest son had an absolute blast helping me tear it down and inspect. It had one bad piston with some scoring. After I got it torn down we also found that it needs cam bearings. I got the bad piston out and then used my dingleball and the scoring isn't very deep at all and would probably be good to send. I'm probably going to get a new piston put a cylinder head on and do a compression test to see what it looks like.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/01/54250659910_ca4fbc37c7_b-1.jpg

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Bearings look good and the other cylinder walls cleaned up very nicely.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/01/54250472768_f11784ddcb_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/01/54250231676_19eeb25b12_b-1.jpg

No idea what I'm going to do with the engine right now, but I'll try to collect parts to put this engine together. Maybe I'll pick up another project or roller and swap it into.

Then when we were visiting family in NY, I found an ad for a Dorman 615-901 LS2 intake for $350. For those that don't know, these allegedly use the old FAST 90 lower intake manifold with Dorman's upper intake. There are many guys out there with documented flow bench tests where these will outperform LS6/TBSS manifolds by a good bit under .600" lift on a flow bench and have a 90mm TB opening. I remember when they first came out and were about $350 bucks which was a good bargain, but are now selling for over $1k online. For that price you may as well buy a real FAST intake, but they used to be a great budget intake. I picked it up for $250, and I'll plan to use it on my Nomad. I need to buy some new fuel rails since these won't work with my LS3 style injectors. I'll do some light port cleanup since there is some flash where the two half's are glued together. After all that, I'm still $50 in the green and still have a few more parts that I can sell/trade.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/01/54250484409_60d3dbb522_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/01/54250231361_a5742b3e2a_b-1.jpg

I'm also starting to collect parts for my Turbo swap. I decided to go with an A2W intercooler since they are more efficient and more flexible. That way I could keep my radiator and fan assembly but add a heat exchanger instead of having to change my whole radiator to account for a large A2A intercooler. First part was a CWA 50 Pierburg pump off of an X5 BMW which is the same pump I used on my Camaro. It worked flawlessly and flows a ton of water/coolant.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/01/54250472608_30c0d58ebc_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/01/54250231366_1eae679e58_b-1.jpg

That's all for now, but I do have another deal in the works for some 9" parts. I picked up a 9" a while ago that is the right width for a 55-57 Chevy, so I'll just need to buy a set of 3.25 gears and I'll have everything I need to swap that into my car. That's probably the next project because I want to have my driveline ready for when I add boost. The factory rear that's under my car is in good condition, so I'd rather not blow it up. It will be worth something to someone.

Cheers,
Ryan

[andrewb70]

Nice progress!

Andrew

[ryeguy2006a]

After all of the work that I've done on the car with many of the parts coming from a local junkyard, I thought it was only right to drive up and show the owner the car. He was so stoked to see it and took a few pictures for his wall. He was a little surprised when he looked under the hood to see an LS and asked a bunch of questions about it. Afterwards he showed me his wall of fame and said that he's printing off one of the pictures to put on his wall. I had him take one with my phone so I had a copy. I looked around while I was there but didn't find much of interest, but it's always cool going there.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/01/54267814386_101275278d_b-1.jpg

I've been meaning to dig into this 9" that I bought a while ago, and finally ripped into it. It's a 3.00 gear open differential just like the tag said, and after opening it up it looks like it may be the first time since 1964 that it has been open. The oil in it looked like crude oil. All of the gasket flange surfaces still have the machining marks on them. I found a guy locally who's going to trade me a factory Trac-Lok center that has 28 splines that will be a direct swap for this rear. I'm going to just clean it up and put it back together with the new posi center section. I haven't decided if I'll use it or re-sell and try to find a nice 8.8 rear. The passenger side axle slid right out, but the driver's needed the old slide hammer.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/01/54267814356_8be5ac2be3_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/01/54268232430_bcecdb0a85_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/01/54268055049_d2854ecdcf_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/01/54267813946_c050ab4025_b-1.jpg

Last car update is I found a listing on eBay for a factory 30k mile Throttlebody off of an LS7. I put a high bid of $75, and the bidding ended at $64 bucks, score! The 87mm interfered with the intake, so I couldn't use it without a spacer. The LS3/LS7 throttlebodies work without an issue. It even came with the factory bolts, which is a nice bonus.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/01/54268053879_ae4837a786_b-1.jpg

Next is a slight departure from the project, but is pretty cool. I've always wanted a golf cart to cruise around my yard and neighborhood, but never was able to find one priced right with the options I wanted. I found this one that had both the folding rear seat and a lift kit. The only issue is the motor was missing. But I had read that there are options out there to swap in other motor platforms, so I grabbed it. It was pretty dirty and had definitely been sitting for a while, but had great bones.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/01/54266926597_10c3d2eb72_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/01/54268048163_7f24dfc630_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/01/54268047528_954c23856d_b-1.jpg

Pretty much just the engine was missing, with all of the other components and wiring. Great base to start with.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/01/54267813511_d2911618cb_b-1.jpg

I spent an hour or so scrubbing it up before I brought it inside. It cleaned up a lot better than I thought, which is great because I may not end up painting it now.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/01/54268047513_bdccb04530_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/01/54266925817_4111a45992_b-1.jpg

After doing some research online I found a company called Vegas Carts, and they sell components to "big block" swap these carts with anything from 420cc up to V-Twin's. After searching around the internet, I came across a guy selling a GX390 Honda engine, but looked like it had been worked over. Just so happened he was about 5 miles away, so I ran over there and he was able to fire it up for me and it ran great. I picked it up for a very reasonable amount.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/01/54266925692_241c8e122c_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/01/54266925452_e7c878bd6b_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/01/54268047038_da10c9d911_b-1.jpg

After a search online, I found a number to the builder EES and gave them a call. Turns out they build these engines for a SPEC racing class and tune these little 11-13 HP motors up to around 19-20 HP! He said based on what I was telling him it was the 19HP version. I was concerned that this may be a little too much for the cart considering I really only want it to tool around my yard and go to the fishing pond, but he said that he has built many of these engine's for guys doing exactly what I am. He said it will run and idle just like stock, but have a little more at bottom end than a stock Honda engine would. Pretty stoked. I'm going to make my own engine mount, but I did buy the specialty drive clutch from Vegas Cart. They have a nice machined pulley that the other company's don't have which will allow me to use a stock starter/generator so it will start and stop just like a regular golf cart.

I'm hoping that over the next month or so to put this cart together and then order the rest of the parts to get my 9" swapped into the Nomad. Once the new rear end is installed, I can focus my attention towards adding boost. I'm trying to do everything in small stages so that I can avoid having the car down for more than a week or so.

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

Took a little break from the car and focused on some house projects and basketball games. I've been slowly buying some parts and getting ready for the next stage of the project. I traded some parts a while back for a LY6 shortblock that needed a little love. I pulled all the pistons/rods, descaled the block and ran my ball hone through it about 30 times each. I have a flat plate of aluminum and some 600 grit sandpaper that I used to clean off the gasket surface, then after washing multiple times sprayed it with some engine enamel. Turned out pretty good IMO. I had a buddy sell me a complete set of LS2 flat top pistons for a really good price and they came with new rings with very low mileage. It needed cam bearings and I got those installed a few days ago. It's now ready for reassembly and once that's done I'll list if for sale. Once it sells, I'm going to pull the trigger on a Quick Performance 9". I was going to try and make the other 9" work for me, but at the end of the day the only thing that I want to keep is the housing, so I'm going to send that one down the road as well.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/02/54354020061_1f0f503007_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/02/54354224509_79d5a4d600_b-1.jpg

The other thing that was keeping me busy was my golf cart project. It took me a while to figure out how I wanted to build the engine cradle, but once I did it came together pretty quickly. They sell a kit through Vegas Carts, but what I didn't like was it deleted the factory rubber engine mounts. My design keeps the mounts and still keeps it low enough to fit under the seat.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/02/54354020286_dc476e64c2_b-1.jpg

Round one determined that I couldn't have my bar go straight across since it needed clearance for the belt. The solution was to create a notch, which I think turned out pretty good.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/02/54354426910_690ccc43ac_b-1.jpg

After many test fits, here is the final product with the engine bay painted.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/02/54354246168_c321deb3ce_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/02/54354224384_7b88e554e0_b-1.jpg

I still need to wire up the external ignition switch, rebuild the fuel pump, add an external choke and flush the gas tank. After that, it will be good to go fishing! I want to add some fishing racks on the roof so that we can go back and forth to the pond near our house.

I recently made a sizeable purchase at Summit Racing which included some misc. fuel fittings to get my Dorman LS2 intake installed as well as some new 2" drop springs from Real Deal Steel. They seem really well built, but I think that given how worn my springs are it will actually raise my ride height in the rear. Hoping to get them installed soon as well. In addition to the fuel fittings for the intake I also grabbed a flex fuel sensor so I can run blended fuels. We have e85 at several gas stations right near me, so I might as well take advantage of it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/02/54354245998_b35efc52ce_b-1.jpg

I took advantage of my son's 3D printer and found a file on Thingiverse.com for a bracket to hold the sensor. Thanks whoever uploaded it! It fits perfectly and uses the factory clip location to lock into place. Great design.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/02/54354245993_fa8b7d3ca6_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/02/54354245948_02c589d173_b-1.jpg

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https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/02/54354019801_bcf1646e87_b-1.jpg

Part of the parts collection I've been doing over the last month was finding some sun visors. Want to thank Crawdad55 from Trifive.com for sending these to me. He basically gave them to me and they are incredibly good condition for being original. Play to dye them black to match the rest of my interior. He also included the swivels and mounting screws. He said they came off of a car he parted in the early 90s. Amazing.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/02/54354246083_4e10e3b9b4_b-1.jpg

Lastly, I was thinking about longer road trips and realized it would be a good idea to carry a spare tire. Trouble is finding one large enough to fit over my big brakes. After searching around I found that the certain models of Cadillac CTS have 18x4" spare tires which is perfect! The only thing that is a very small issue with them is that the bolt pattern is 5x120mm vs the 5x120.65mm(5x4.75"). I'm not concerned at all about that, but wanted to mention if someone wanted to copy. I ran BMW wheels on my 1968 Camaro for 5 years with zero issues. But none the less, it fits great in the spare tire well, and I think that it will also allow me room to build a recess panel to mount my battery down there too. I'd like to get the battery off the firewall and in the rear if I can. We'll see.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/02/54354426385_7033aec03f_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/02/54354224119_cedb44399c_b-1.jpg

I'm getting excited to work on the car again and continue working the bugs out of the car and making it better. Before the weather fully turns and we are back in driving season again, I need to get the rear springs swapped in and a proper front end alignment done. I still think I want to cut 1/2 coil out of the front so that's on my list. To be kind to the alignment guy, I'm going to keep the inner fenders off, but once the alignment is done I want to install those. Hoping to get that done in the next few weeks.

Cheers,
Ryan

[Vimes]

Thanks for posting that about the spare. This is something I was looking for, and was considering a drag racing skinny. Have you test fit it to make sure it'll go on cleanly? That bit may be enough to keep it from going on depending on how tight the tolerance is.

The golf cart stuff was pretty neat too.

[thedugan]

I am also now looking into using this spare as long as it fits the camaro bolt pattern.

[ryeguy2006a]

Thanks for posting that about the spare. This is something I was looking for, and was considering a drag racing skinny. Have you test fit it to make sure it'll go on cleanly? That bit may be enough to keep it from going on depending on how tight the tolerance is.

The golf cart stuff was pretty neat too.

BMW wheels are 5x120mm and there are many guys that run them on their cars with 5x4.75" BP. Like I said, I ran BMW wheels on my Camaro for 5 years without an issue. Spirited driving, burnouts, Autocross, etc.

[thedugan]

K thanks
From a 2008-2015 CTS sound right?

[ryeguy2006a]

Yes, that sounds about right.

[Vimes]

Bummer, won't work for me as the tires I will be running are too tall for that spare. But, a 20 inch CTS spare will fit perfectly and likely has the same wheel pattern. Or at least it would if it didn't weigh 48lbs!:crying:

[ryeguy2006a]

You can always get a taller tire to go on the spare. I may end up doing that down the road, but I'm just happy to have a spare in the event of an emergency. I can at least limp to a tire shop.

[ryeguy2006a]

Not a huge update as I've been sort of busy just collecting new parts and selling some ones I'm not going to use. Last week I finished up the 6.0 that I rebuilt and listed it for sale. I may have let it go too cheap because someone came and bought it within 24 hours of posting. It really cleaned up well and will make a great engine for that guy. He's going to put an LSA supercharger on it which is perfect because I gapped it for boost. Looked pretty before it left.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/03/54376322966_07df0cd6f4_b-1.jpg

Once that sold, I decided to pull the trigger on a Quick Performance 9" rear. I ordered it with 35 spline axles and the GM flush mount ends so that I can run the tried and true LS1 rear brakes. Hopefully it will be shipped in the next few weeks. I'm going to order an assembled unit through Speedway once I get the word on shipping the housing and axles. I also ordered a pair of new drop springs from Real Deal Steel because the spring on the passenger side is almost flat. It will likely raise my ride height because of how worn the stock springs are, but I'll run a drop block to get it back to where it is now. They shipped just like this with no box. I was a little surprised, but they seem to have made it safely. We'll see once I open them.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/03/54375447957_08f032a447_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/03/54375447927_61cb382085_b-1.jpg

I also grabbed a few fuel fittings that I needed to run the Dorman LS2 intake. One is made by Fragola for fuel rails. It's a -8 ORB on one side, then 90* to 3/8" GM quick connect on the other side to connect to my Nylon fuel lines. I'll need to tap into the lines I ran though to add the flex fuel sensor as well.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/03/54375447917_a7c68ae351_b-1.jpg

I was checking Facebook marketplace this weekend as I usually do and came across a guy selling an upgraded CTSV fuel pump and Vaporworx fuel module for a great price. I only needed the fuel module, but bought it all because I knew that I could either use the pump or sell. The guy was selling because he was going to the next level with his G8 and swapping to a 416 stroker with Kong 2650 which will require a triple pump setup. Good news for me, because that was the last piece to my fuel puzzle and one step closer to Turbo Time.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/03/54376559498_2425c7511d_b-1.jpg

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I'm trying to keep the car drivable as long as I can, so I haven't torn into it yet. In the short term I want to get the inner fenders repaired, so that I can install them and move the battery from the firewall to the driver's side core support. I want to give more room for the post turbo exhaust and more room around the valve covers. I'll also be putting the A2W intercooler on the passengers side down low, so I want to keep that side clear. Once I have all the components for the 9", I'll also need to measure for a new driveshaft from PEM. It will be nice once the new rear and upgraded driveshaft are installed so I shouldn't have to worry about breaking the rear!

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

It's been a while since I've been back into the swing of things and got some work done to the car. I've been collecting parts, buying/selling, house projects and etc, but now I want to get back to the car and ready for some warm weather cruising. There are several things with the front end that I want to address, but first up was the stance. I installed the CPP C5 2" Drop springs and tubular control arms last fall, but after I got them installed it seemed to be no change in the stance. I think with the isolator cups in the bottom of the lower control arms it acted as a spring spacer to offset the gain from the 2" drop spindles. I opted to cut one coil off of the springs to hopefully stiffen the front end slightly and get a lower stance.

Initial measurement was 28" left and right.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/03/54396910189_e41c8f4586_b-1.jpg

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Got it back together and the drop was about 1.5"

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/03/54396733586_42c600d8ed_b-1.jpg

Before:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/03/54396965353_366f0fcb6f_b-1.jpg

After:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/03/54397094275_fc15d10b58_b-1.jpg

It's hard to say how much it will change until I get it outside, but it is noticeably lower.

Next up was getting my original inner fenders installed. I didn't get any pictures, but I repaired the lip and some pin holes on the lower sections. Got them prepped and repainted with SEM Trim Black to match the firewall.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/03/54391695067_787cf803bb_b-1.jpg

Started with some disassembly

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/03/54396733816_5a27baf103_b-1.jpg

Only a handful of hardware held on the front grill. We'll be changing that!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/03/54396910364_57538afecd_b-1.jpg

After struggling a bit to get it installed, I needed to remove the lower bolt down by the rocker to allow the fender to swing out. That gave me enough room to get the upper side into place. After wrestling with the fender a bit, I finally got a few screws in place. I also installed some original fender brackets I picked up that were powder coated and came with some original zinc coated hardware.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/03/54396965093_7d786da1ce_b-1.jpg

Took some time to clean up the core support and repaint, then installed some new aftermarket filler panels that I picked up several months ago. I painted them flat black, but it doesn't quite match the sheen of the Trim Black which I ran out of. I'll touch it up though before I button everything back up once I get a new can.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/03/54395843627_0b2daf0ca6_b-1.jpg

I notched the passenger's side where the transmission cooler lines go. Used a hole saw to get the radius and my tin snips to get the straight lines.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/03/54395843627_0b2daf0ca6_b-1.jpg

I ran out of the package of screws that I bought for this project so it's not final, but so far it looks way better than it did before. Inner fenders and new filler panels make a huge difference.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/03/54397094570_72160f8e3b_b-1.jpg

The I turned my attention to the front lower valance panel. I didn't pay much attention before, but the back is in pretty poor shape. I'm going to attempt to repair it, but may just pick up a new one when I'm at Spring Carlisle next month.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/03/54396909949_549c2d3ed4_b-1.jpg

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That's where I left the car a few days ago, but much more work will be done to clean up the engine bay. I was also able to snag some more key parts that will be very helpful with the next stage of my build. First up is a Mighty Mouse catch can. It's got the fittings for boost already installed, just need to buy or make a bracket for it to be installed.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/03/54392946240_f8485ef234_b-1.jpg

Also my Quick Performance 9" housing and axles arrived! I haven't gotten a chance to take them out of the box, but they are really solid pieces and look very well built. 1/4" axle tubes, internal gussets, HD leaf pads, 35 spline axles and GM Flush mount ends. With those ends I'll be able to use my favorite rear disk brakes off of 98-02 Fbody's.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/03/54392803773_77ca7a0f11_b-1.jpg

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I still need to buy an assembled third member, new rear rotors, NiCopp line and other misc. things before I can assemble/paint the rear and get it installed. Then even before I could run the new rear, I'll need to get it installed and measure for a new heavy duty driveshaft. In the meantime, I plan to get the rear springs swapped out soon so that I can take the car to get a front end alignment and still keep the car functional. I also want to add my flex fuel sensor, swap to the Dorman LS2 intake, add the Vaporworx module and get it wired up. I haven't decided if I'll swap out my fuel pump now, or wait until the car is boosted to swap to the CTS-V pump.

Lots of moving parts, but I'll get them all figured out.

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

Another weekend and some more progress. I've been working a little bit at a time to get closer to installing the Dorman LS2 intake, and it got to the point where I was ready to pull my TBSS intake and do the first test fit. First up was to swap out the stock valley cover bolts for the low profile cap bolts to clear since the intake sits a little bit lower.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/03/54421817784_e7521e7ffd_b-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/03/54422008530_aff888c687_b-1.jpg


First test fit was happy at first because it looks way better than the truck intake, but soon was slightly disappointed because the water pump won't work with the throttlebody. I'm too far down the path now, so I have to move forward with my intake swap. I found a few good deal on eBay for a low mileage C6 water pump and balancer. More research was needed on what the best plan would be for the alternator bracket. I eventually wanted to swap to the Corvette accessories to gain 1.5" in front of the engine for turbo stuff, but this situation sort of forced my hand.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/03/54421624306_fa4f3abc9f_b-1.jpg


Since I need to swap the balancer and swap water pumps, it was much easier to just pull the radiator to get that out of the way. While I had that off, I might as well fix the driver's side frame horn! It was bent in and the top was twisted in as well. I could have used a porta-power I didn't feel like buying one for this project, so I used what I had. My press jack, my BFH, slide hammer, welder and leverage when I could.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/03/54421871083_3468117d60_b-1.jpg


Don't try this at home. It didn't work well at all and was quite sketchy.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/03/54421624116_0264a29e36_b-1.jpg


Before:


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/03/54421817394_3a5d319d3f_b-1.jpg


After:


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/03/54421871018_6c8ec15597_b-1.jpg


I wasn't striving for perfection, but rather a frame that measured straight and within specs for width. I tried to get it back as close as I reasonably could to the original look. I think it turned out pretty good considering the tools I had available.


Another little unexpected surprise was picking up a set of cool late 90's gauges from Custom Rod Gauges. The guy selling them said that all the gauges but the speedometer worked. I took a chance since he was selling them so cheap. The overall reviews for the company seem to be poor customer service, but a quality product. The gauges are all VDO internals.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/03/54408256430_45ec3d0728_b-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/03/54407011032_119c4f63db_b-1.jpg


After pulling off the back cover, I noticed that one of the leads had the solder broke off. I connected it to the right connection and the gauge fired right up! WIN. They came with all the sensors and just overall needs a little TLC. I haven't fully decided if I'm going to run them because I really do love the original gauges. But good to know that they all work.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/03/54420769702_11fc48a40d_b-1.jpg


I also found some electrical tape on the speed sensor wiring that came with it. Each lead was crudely wrapped with electrical tape. I wonder if that had any reason to do with why the Speedo wasn't working??


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/03/54421871408_37948db2b5_b-1.jpg


I placed my order for the Speedway 9" assembled third member with 3.25 gears and 35 spline Helical Posi unit. While I was on there, I also saw something pop up for a sway bar in the garage sale section. Comments said it appeared to be installed, but returned for one reason or another. It had a decent discount so I grabbed it too. The hardware was brand new so it had never been installed, but I think some paint was scuffed off in shipment. That's fine with me. Easy touch up. That's another reason why I needed to straighten out the frame because where the sway bar mounts to the frame didn't sit flat.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/03/54422360490_d14955e0a5_b-1.jpg


I ordered a bunch of parts to finish the install for my 9", catch can, fuel pump controller and other misc. things. Once it all gets here, I'll be able to button everything up fairly quickly and get some more road miles on the car this season. The weather rapidly changed and we're in full on spring here in central Virginia. Can't wait to get it back on the road!


Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

Made quite a bit of progress over the last several days. With the frame horn fixed, I was able to get the sway bar installed. The bushings sat nice and flat on the bottom of the frame rails, so that made me happy.

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My C6 balancer came in. Was a new takeoff piece from a crate motor. I have the puller, flywheel locking tool and installation tools already so this was a pretty quick swap. Pull the truck balancer and install the C6 unit.

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After researching a bunch of different options for the alternator/PS brackets, I decided on the unit made by Holley that replicates the stock C6 bracket. The big difference is the alternator spacing, which allows you to use the more common truck units. Since I already had a good alternator, it made sense to pay a little more for this one so I didn't also need to buy a new alternator. And it will likely be easier/cheaper to replace if this one fails at some point. I ordered it through Summit, and while I placed the order I also grabbed the rest of the fittings to install my Mighty Mouse catch can.

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The Holley bracket is a really nicely cast piece. It's incredibly smooth out of the box and looks to be very well made.

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I had a mix match of parts, and decided to paint all of the brackets and accessories satan black. I've seen a lot of motors with that combo and I wanted to clean up the looks of the engine bay while I'm in this deep.

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For some reason they were still tacky the next day so I set them out in the sun for about 4 hours to cure.

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Once they were all painted up, it was finally time to see how they looked on my motor with the new intake. Very pleased with how they turned out. I've always liked the way the alternators looked painted all black.

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Then another issue popped up. I went to test fit a belt I have and quickly realized that the tensioner is very close to the throttlebody plug. After researching many different options, I realized that it must be because this intake was designed to work with LS1 accessories. I tried flipping the TB, but the motor hits the water pump.

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After a few degrees of rotation it contacted the connector, so that will not work.

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After thinking on it a while, I got the idea to try and rotate the tensioner on the lower mount. BINGO!

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It rotated it enough to allow for full articulation of the tensioner. I cut the boss off of an old truck tensioner that I had laying around and will weld it to the original tensioner so that it won't move around. The good news is the tensioner is pulling towards the stud rather than away from it, so there will always be a force in the right direction.

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I used an old truck water pump I had to bolt it all in place so that I could TIG weld it into place. I'm a beginner, but the weld will definitely hold it in place. Then I milled the reverse side flat so allow the bolt head to sit flush.

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Touched up the paint, and I think it looks great!

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Before the final installation of the accessories, I drilled and tapped the water pump for the steam port lines. When I first put the engine together I realized that I had some block off plates in the front, so it wasn't ever fully bleeding the air from the system. This will be a good piece of mind update.

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In order to install the LS3 style 1000cc injectors into this intake, I had to make some new brackets for the fuel rails I bought. They are generic Amazon rails, but do look to be well built. I used some aluminum angle bulk from Lowe's and it ended up being the perfect height for these injectors. Just trimmed them down and rounded off the edges. Then painted.

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Once the brackets dried, I installed them onto the fuel rails and installed on the car. I'm really happy with how this update turned out. I figured while I'm swapping intakes I might as well get the new injectors installed so that I'll be that much closer when I add the turbo. It will take a bit of time to get my new base VE table updated, but I think the existing table will give me a great base to start from.

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I also received my 9" third member from Speedway a few days ago. It was packaged up really well, and I only pulled the cover off to take a picture but for now it's staying in the case for safe keeping. It's a Nodular Iron third member with 35 spline Helical Posi differential and 3.25 gears. I'm really excited about putting together the rear end, but for now I want to focus on getting the engine bay back together. I have a complete LS1 rear disk brake setup for it as well. Just needs to be cleaned up and painted since the backing plates need to be installed before the bearings can be installed. I opted for the GM bolt pattern flush mount ends which are designed to work with these brakes.

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Over the next week or so I'm hoping to get the flex fuel sensor mounted and installed, reinstall the battery and re-route some cables, loom all the wires in the engine bay, install the fuel pump controller (requires installing 8 ga wire to the rear of the car and tapping into the MAP sensor), and modifying the CTS-V fuel pump assembly so that I can swap that into my tank. I was going to just run the car as is, but if I do that, I'll end up needing to modify my VE table twice. With the fuel pump controller it will ramp up based on boost pressure and because of this, I like to run the pumps at a starting pressure of 43psi. Going from a base pressure of 58psi to 43psi will change the fueling required in my VE Table.

Cheers,
Ryan

[Pedigry]

Wow, Christmas at your place! Nice gear and the project looks great. I saw you running a mighty mouse with a hose/drain out the bottom. I always like to keep the petcock closed to keep an eye on the amount of blow by I am getting. I don't know if you are running an open fitting in the bottom or not. If so, you may want to put a petcock in to keep an eye on blowby and how much condesation you are getting. just a thought.

[arcane73]

I logged on just to say that I look forward to your updates. I'm digging the ride-along with this one.

[ryeguy2006a]

Pedigry, that's a good suggestion. I'll have to check it out and see how mine is setup.

Thanks arcane73!

[ryeguy2006a]

We took advantage of the kids having off last week for spring break, and took a long weekend trip last weekend in Pigeon Forge. Was great to see the mountains and relax in a cool cabin. I kept seeing all these cool hot rods just parked on the strip and wondered why. Then I realized that this last weekend was the Rod Run there. Missed it by a week, but still got to see some really cool cars along the way.

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Saw this really clean 1956 Belair, then noticed this really cool detail! I'm borrowing that for my car because I need to replace the filler panel as it's heavily rusted.

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Back to work on the car. Once I got the tensioner figured out, I needed a new belt to match. This ended up being the length I needed. I also forgot to mention that with the Holley bracket, it also has provisions for Power Steering, but I'm not using that right now. But what will be nice is that all I'll need to do is add the pump and hoses when the time comes.

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Next up was figuring out how I wanted to mount the flex fuel sensor. After a lot of thinking, I decided to build a bracket off of my booster. I remembered that the original brackets that I bought for the booster came with two of the same side, so Summit sent me the correct ones. I trimmed off the excess, bent it to a 45* angle, then tapped for the right hardware. Turned out great with minimal fabrication, WIN!

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On every LS swap that I've done, I've used a roll of Nylon fuel lines and love how easy they are to work with. I've used the caulk gun method many times and is quite easy. For those that haven't seen it, you use a brake flare tool to hold the line, then a two post caulk gun and use it to press the fitting in. Make sure to measure the depth of the barbed side and then clamp down tight, but not all the way. It will distort if you clamp too hard.

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Position it like this, and use steady pressure to get it started and ensure it's straight. Once you can tell it's going in straight, I just use a few quick presses until the line is flush with the end of the fitting.

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Here you can see the fitting is flush with the line. I bought this piece of repair line from Autozone that had a 90* fitting and just pressed a straight fuel fitting that I had in place. You can also see the flex fuel sensor mounted in place and all my lines are now complete. I had to heat and bent the lines around to give some slack for motor movement and to avoid hitting the firewall. Really happy with how it turned out.

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I came across this really cool harness from Current Performance Wiring that is a plug and play flex fuel along with a 2 pin alternator plug. What's cool about this harness is it has a PWM generator built in to give the two wire alternator the right signal to charge up to 14.5v. Now that I have the harness I just need to add the flex fuel to my tune and can test out a tank of e85!

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My lower radiator hose worked the same, but needed to be trimmed a bit to avoid hitting the frame, but the upper hose was way different since it came out on the driver's side rather than the passenger. After playing around, I realized I just needed a hose that came out at an angle to avoid the air intake. I went back to Autozone to browse the different hoses and found one that worked. I couldn't find one that had the jog I needed, but was able to cut the water neck off of an old truck water pump and that curve worked just like I wanted.

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I also ordered some grommets for the firewall to get things sealed up.

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I need to install the speedometer grommet too and the wiper motor grommet is already installed. I also was looking at the firewall and everything is cleaning up really nicely and the wiper motor stuck out. I ended up spraying it in Satan black and it looks great. Not original, but disappears now on the firewall.

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This project has certainly snowballed, but I'm getting closer to the end. I've been taking my time to clean up the wiring and loom it as I am going. Which means I've been having to re-route wiring and I also swapped out the battery cables I had with some that I acquired from a 2016 F150. The terminal clamps are really nice and the cables are high quality. I'm not done yet, but it's all starting to fall back into place. I have the coils off to clean up, then I'll reinstall. I'm debating on painting the valve covers a flat red, or even wrinkle red finish. Still up in the air, but I think it would give the engine bay a pop of color.

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While the car is "down" and I'm in the wiring mindset, I'm also swapping to the Vaporworx module to control my fueling. I went back and forth on where to locate the module, and finally tried under the rear seat. I still have access to the set screw for adjusting the fuel pressure, but it's out of the way. I want to add a cover to it so that the pins cannot short out if a screwdriver or something fell down and shorted it. I started to run the main 8 gauge wires from the battery, and the MAP signal wires but haven't finished.

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Once the wiring for the module is complete, I need to work on getting the fuel pump assembly modified to work with my fuel tank. I'll need to extend the wiring, extend the support rods and ordered a new longer corrugated hose. I also need the correct -6AN fittings to add the Fuel Pressure sensor from the fuel module. Swapping fuel pumps also means that unfortunately I'll need to drop my fuel tank which I believe is almost full. Although it will give me an opportunity to test the fuel sender as I think it may be going bad. More to come, but hopefully the car will be back on the ground soon.

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

This will be sort of a scattered post since I have been working on multiple projects all at the same time. The Spring Carlisle swap meet is this weekend and I had been waiting until then to pickup some parts with one of them being a rust free original lower filler panel. To my surprise, my father in law shipped one to me that he bought on eBay! Thanks Bern! It's in fantastic shape and even has the factory undercoating, which is pretty amazing. It has a few dents in it which is expected given it's age, and since I don't want to do body work on it I have a plan.

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It fits really nicely on the body.

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Before I could do anything with that I wanted to continue working on my wiring and my new fuel pump setup. I decided to just use the fuel pump that came with the Vaporworx controller I bought a few weeks ago. I wanted to pull the assembly apart to make sure there wasn't any debris hiding. I was in a bit of a hurry and my caveman self used too much leverage and broke the venturi fitting on the fuel pump. It's not something that can be easily fixed, but after reaching out to Carl at Vaporworx and making some posts on forums and FB, I found a guy who had some leftover parts from upgrading a CTS-V pump and sold them to me for very cheap.

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Thanks Bill from FB! Bonus is that he had an extra fuel bucket and support rods. I've been trying to think how I was going to extend the rods to raise the fuel pump assembly by about 4.5", and this solves that problem. I can cut the ones I have, as well as the ones he sold and then the factory clips will work as they should.

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I also bought some "made in the USA" Moog inner and outer tie rods from a member of Tri-Five a few months ago and now I'm ready to swap them out. They were bare steel so I just sprayed some flat black paint on them. I bought some slick UMI adjusters a while back too that should make adjustments easier.

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I pulled the steering column out so that I could install the firewall seal that I should have done from the beginning. While I had it out, I swapped out the stock ignition switch with an aftermarket unit because the lock cylinder kept falling out. I also fixed the dimmer switch for the gauges and tidied up some wiring while I was in there. I also need to shim the steering box so it is centered. All good things that need to be done, but aren't that exciting.

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I also unboxed my Quick Performance 9" rear and started to prep it for welding on the tabs for brake hoses. I want to make sure that they aren't in the way of installing U-bolts, suspension or anything else. I'll tack weld the tabs then install it in car to make sure nothing will interfere.

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Here's what I started with, and the backing plates after a little TLC.

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I bought new boots from Dorman for the ebake lever as well. For those that are curious they are the stock brake assemblies off of all 98-02 Camaros and Firebirds which are often referred to as "LS1 Rear Brakes". Fantastic brake setup; 12" rotors, PBR Calipers, internal ebrake assembly, and use the standard GM backing plate bolt pattern used for decades. When I had QP build my rear I had them use the Moser GM Flush mount housing ends so that I could use these brakes specifically. I also have a pair of C5 brake calipers that are a direct replacement for the Camaro units, but these are supposed to have a better casting. I picked them up on eBay for super cheap and bonus was they came with Hawk brake pads that look barely used.

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I also don't remember where I bought it, but I had a single brand new dust shield kicking around in my garage that I was able to use instead of the crusty one. The other side cleaned up pretty nicely so that will get reused too.

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Back to the wiring, I added a 70 amp breaker to inline with my C7 fan for added protection.

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After wrapping up a few other items, I was finally able to get my new filler panel painted fitted and installed. After that, I reinstalled the radiator filler panels, grill and front bumper. With all of the changes in the front end, I also had to re-align the hood which has never fit better! Very pleased with this when I step back now. Love it or hate it, it's very unique and I love it!

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I also was able to step back and check out my new engine bay. It took a lot of time and energy to route all of the wiring and wrap it all up. I'm very happy with how it all turned out. I still need to power wash all of the pollen off everything and loom up the headlight and turn signal wiring, but after that I'm calling it done. At least until I buy some turbo parts...

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Hoping to get tabs welded to the rear, paint and swap it out for the stock rear. I also need to wrap up the Vaporworx module install, modify fuel pump, and swap that out with the Gen 5 Camaro unit I have in there now. I'm really starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel, and cannot wait to get back behind the wheel. Hopefully in the next few weeks.

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

It's been a little bit since I've had an update on this project. Between work, building a porch and life it has been hard to get anything done on the 55. I've done a few things here and there, but have enough for an update. Once I got the front end back together, I wanted to start on swapping out the tie rods since they were quite worn.

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Once I had the complete assembly out it was time to break them down. Looks like someone removed the bushing with a torch then just reinstalled a new bushing. Not comfortable with that, so I ordered a new one from CPP.

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I have new Moog bushings, but since the new drag link will have a new one already installed I'll just put a new Moog in the idler arm.

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While that was all disassembled, I removed the steering column so that I could install the column firewall boot and seal. I could have cut it, but I decided it wouldn't take that long to pull the column and so it seals up better. Well that lead to me also shimming the steering shaft so that it came through straight and not off to one side. Before and after. I think it took 3/32 of shims to the lowest bolt to straighten out. Much happier.

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I also cleaned up all the hardware for the LS1 rear brakes so they are all ready to install when the time comes.

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Huge thanks to plasticman on the Trifive site for sending me this shock bar. Hoping to get that installed when I pull the stock rear to replace with the 9".

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I've been trying to track down the 55 Nomad trim pretty much since I bought the car, and finally found someone who would sell me a set for a reasonable price. They are reproduction cast aluminum pieces that are uncoated. They fit really nicely too. He sold me both eyebrows and the door trim, so I still need to track down the fender trim but I'm stoked to find what I have. I couldn't wait and got the eyebrows test fit immediately. Can't wait to install them for good!

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And wouldn't you know it, when it rains it pours. I hardly ever check Craigslist anymore, but happened to open it and a short listing popped up and mentioned Nomad parts. I clicked on it and saw among a pile of parts a pair of original eyebrows! I reached out and the lady and after communicating for about a week, we met up last weekend and I bought all of the parts from her. Ended up being probably a hundred parts with many Nomad parts, 55 Belair pieces and many NOS parts. It ended up being her father's entire collection of parts that she inherited when he passed away in 2016. They had been in dry storage all this time.

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Borderline holy grail!

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Really cool license plate boarder. Definitely running that!

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Can someone help identify what these parts are? I've never seen anything like these before?

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Then I recently welded the tabs on the rear for the rear disk brake hoses, and painted it. First etch primer, then some medium and heavy coats of Satan Black.

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Hoping to get the new springs installed this weekend and the 9" test fit so that I can measure for a new driveshaft. I'm 99% sure that I'll need a new one and want to get that ordered so that I can get this car back on the road. I'm still debating on pulling the gas tank to install the CTS-V modified unit so that it's all ready for when I add the turbo. I'll probably do that anyway since I'll want to remove the fuel tank when I weld in the shock bar. Still up in the air though since I may just get the new rear installed and run it the rest of the year. I really want to drive the car again. I forget that I lowered the front end and installed a sway bar as well. It should be a completely different handling car once I have a proper alignment.

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

I'm really regretting tearing the car down earlier this year AND letting the project snowball a bit. But never the less, here we are. I'm trying to make a big push to get the car back together and on the road. Picking up where I left off, I needed to get the stock rear out of the way. I didn't want to disconnect the rear brake lines just yet, since I know the new rear will be in and out a few times test fitting so I removed a few brackets and slid it under the car still intact.

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Once I removed the stock rear along with the leaf springs, I put the third member into the QP rear housing so that I could test fit everything. It looks great in there, but I still need to paint since it's raw cast iron.

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Pretty big win was the driveshaft that is in there now will work with the new rear! That will be something that I can upgrade when I add boost, but for now is a nice cost savings! And yes, the rear has the full weight on it with me bouncing it a few times.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/05/54532429337_7cb329e570_b-1.jpg

The bad news was that when I test fit with the new drop springs, the passenger side was contacting the spring hanger near the shackle just like it was with the old springs. I thought that it was because the old springs were flattened, but as I dug deeper and started measuring I found the culprit. Somewhere along the way the front spring hanger was bent up a good bit. So much that it even tore the hanger slightly!

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After comparing to the driver's side and taking some measurements the outer hole was what moved. I was able to bent it back with many precision hits from my BFH. I kept measuring to have it match the driver's side. Once I got it back into place, I drilled the end of where it was torn, cranked my welder voltage up and laid several passes of hot weld. I'm confident that it will stay in place now. I test fit the new spring again under full weight and it had plenty of clearance around the shackle, just the same as the driver's side. Crisis averted.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/05/54533314216_5879e29b8b_b-1.jpg

While I had the new rear in place, I also took the opportunity to test fit the new shock bar. Thank you Plasticman!! It ended up being the shorter bar I think for the one piece frame. It ended up being half an inch short, so I put my thinking cap on and decided to make two 1/4" plates and weld those to the frame, then tap all the way through them for a really solid removable mount. Very happy I was able to make it work. Welds could have been better if I wasn't welding out of position under the car. I got solid penetration though so they won't come off, just not pretty.

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I also forgot that you have to remove the rear end to get to the fuel tank and since I was having an issue with the fuel sender reading incorrectly and wanting to swap fuel pumps it was the right time to do it now. I pulled the tank and took some measurements so that I could first modify the CTS-V fuel pump assembly to fit into my modified fuel tank. That meant modifying the assembly to add about 6" of height. The guy that sold me the new venturi setup also had some other spare parts including two rods. That was perfect, because now all I had to do was trim a bit off one end and then weld them together. I determined the height I needed, then subtracted 1/2" so that it wasn't bottomed out when I compressed the assembly. Cleaned the ends with acetone and tig welded back together.

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Once that was done, I swapped the fuel pumps to the new venturi assembly that I didn't break and added the extended fuel hose.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/05/54533547568_3a294a6e85_b-1.jpg

The pump I bought came with upgraded dual AEM 340 lph pumps. Will provide more than enough fuel under boost.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/05/54533313061_4ba6414819_b-1.jpg

It was also not necessary, but I bought them a while ago so thought I'd swap them out. Most 90* fittings have a hard transition inside where they are drilled from both sides. I swapped that out for a full flow fitting that has a smooth transition inside. No idea what that does for performance if any, but makes me feel better there is less restriction I guess.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/05/54532427852_6294c4a3f3_b-1.jpg

Then I extended the wiring and added a fitting to add the fuel pressure sensor for the Vaporworx module. Ready to test and install.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/05/54532427562_1b4a885a35_b-1.jpg

Last thing was to swap the sender out for a new piece I bought from Tanks Inc. The sender was an original piece so I assumed it was failing, but when I pulled the sender the float was full of gas! Must have a pin hole in it somewhere. Oh well, I opted to install the new one since I had it. Hurt a little to cut up a perfectly good sender, but I don't need the carb style pickup. I had to bend the sender over slightly and readjust the float arm so that it would clear the fuel pump assembly.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/05/54532427667_0430f85603_b-1.jpg

Lastly, I know the common deal is to seal using a cork gasket, but I used a liberal amount of Seal All everywhere when I installed this with the rubber gasket. I even put a dab on the screws, so I'm confident that it will seal like it did before. That also used a rubber gasket with the stock sender.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/05/54532427342_95e26f141b_b-1.jpg

The plan now is to get the fuel pump installed and finish the Vaporworx installation so that I can verify fuel pressure and functionality. Assuming there are no leaks I also want to start the engine again with all the new mods. I changed a bunch of settings on the tune to add flex fuel, new 1K CC injectors, new intake manifold/Throttlebody and will lower the fuel pressure to 43 psi since I'll have a boost referenced pump now. With all that I'm expecting the tune to be way off. But my hope is that it can at least get the engine to idle. Then I'll feel confident that the fuel system is good to install for good. Then with the fuel tank installed I can start bolting everything back together. I'm very excited to get the new rear end installed and see what the stance is with the drop springs and cut front coils. Lots of exciting stuff hopefully with the next update!

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

Continuing from where I left off, I put together the fuel pump wiring based on advice from Carl at Vaporworx. 8 GA wire from the battery, then about 6" from the pigtail, I split each into two 12 GA wires that feed the pumps. I got that all wired up and mocked up where the fuel pump will go. I had to enlarge the original hole I made for the larger diameter wiring plus the fuel pressure sensor wiring from the Vaporworx module.

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I know some people may get upset, but given the level of difficulty to remove the fuel tank to service the fuel pump, I decide to cut an access hole for the fuel pump. I'll now be able to service the pump from the top side which will be significantly easier than pulling the rear end in order to drop the tank. I'm going to create a custom recessed panel that will cover the hole and seal it off from the exhaust. I need to paint the tank straps before the rear goes in. That's been bugging me.

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The tank is now bolted down again and the new shock bar is installed as well. It makes for a nice piece to secure the fuel pump wiring and fuel line.

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Next up is to finalize the rear brake lines on the new rear end. Everything is mocked up and looked great, so it was time to make the lines to connect from the Tee to each caliper. I used 3/16" NiCopp lines which is what I used for the rest of the car. I made this straightener a long time ago out of some screen door rollers and some angle iron. Works great to straighten a roll.

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Always love to get an opportunity to use my Mastercool flare tool. Does a wonderful job on the NiCopp lines and the flares are very repeatable. Love having the right tool for the job.

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Final results look pretty great to me.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/05/54549014564_75728d5935_b-1.jpg

After the rest of my wiring parts were delivered, I was able to finish up the installation of the fuel pump controller. Since the controller is under the rear seat, I wanted to add some protection to the terminals so that it didn't arc if something metal was pushed under the seat. I do have kids that ride in the car afterall, so I have to plan for everything. I found these on Amazon and they were perfect for this application.

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Now that the tank is installed and the wiring is done, I was able to test the new fuel pump. Great news is that the fuel pump fired right up to 58 psi, but the bad news is that the upper fuel pump orings were slightly different for LS3 style injectors than the LS1 style rail that I'm running. Passenger side bank sealed, but the driver's side sprayed out of every injector. Fuel was everywhere... At the time I wasn't sure where it was coming from, so after many choice words, troubleshooting and smelling way too much raw fuel, I went inside for the night. After a little research, I determined that the upper fuel injector orings were the culprit. I had an old set of L92 fuel injectors that fit the LS3 injectors and had a larger diameter. That was the fix, and sealed everything up, but it took about 4 days to air out the garage fully.

I updated the tune file a few weeks ago for the new fuel injectors, flex fuel, and new fuel pump to give the engine the best shot at starting and idling. I finally started the engine again after many months and it was surprisingly pretty close because it ran and idled very similar to last year. It did run on the lean side, but once it hit 160*, it started to add more fuel to the table and hit my target AFR. I love Holley EFI!! It was great hearing the engine again, but I need to clean up the rest of the dash wiring and put the interior back together.

Since the engine is running now, that's a huge relief and now I can focus back on the driveline. While I love the look of the cast iron, the third member is raw and needed paint. Most guys tend to paint them the stock primer red that most 9" came from the factory. I decided to change it up a little and spray the Ford rear end with some Chevy Orange! Just because haha.

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https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/05/54549014469_54af471e1d_b-1.jpg

I love it!!

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While I was in the painting mood, I also quickly painted the black calipers red to match the front. I also painted one of the axles since the flange is also raw, but didn't get a picture.

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I didn't get a picture, but the third member is installed with a new LubeLocker gasket and torqued down. Only thing left before I install the rear housing is to paint the gas tank straps and tap the lip of the fuel tank down to clear the housing. Hopefully throughout this week I can get the bearings pressed on the axles, reinstall new drop springs and fully assemble the 9". I also ordered a new conversion 1350/S44(3R) Ujoint, CPP drag link and some new CPP tie rod adjusters which some have come in. Will make time to get those installed as well so that the front end can be completed. Very excited to drive the car after all the changes I've made.

Cheers,
Ryan

[Vimes]

Nice work. The only complaint I might have about the fuel pump hole is that looks like a real wrist slicer. I'd make it a little bigger and clean up the edge, maybe even roll the metal under while the tank is out so your hands only ever see a smooth surface because those lock rings are hard to get off. I've never gotten a fuel pump in or out of anything without the wrench slipping a few times on that stupid ring.

[ryeguy2006a]

Thanks Vimes, I appreciate the input and I completely agree. That was my first rough cut. I'm going to be building a custom panel that covers the hole, and use a flange tool to recess the metal so it sits more flush.

[ryeguy2006a]

Since I don't have any prior experience with Ford 9" rear ends, I made a call to quick performance to ask them about the order for the spacers, bearings and locking rings. I called them to confirm since the LS1 rear brake setup is probably not as common as the Ford brakes. The guy I spoke with told me that with my LS1 rear brakes that I didn't need the spacer. Wonderful, because I want to make sure that my brake offset is right so I don't have to do it twice and have to remove the bearing since they are a real PITA to remove in one piece.

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Quick comparison of a stock 17 spline 55-57 axle and an aftermarket 35 spline. Huge difference!

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After bending the lip back on the gas tank, painting the straps, welding in the bump stop that I removed 2 years ago, welding a tab for the brake hose, fighting with a badly leaking caliper brake hoses... I was finally able to install the rear for good. The leaking brake hoses were 100% my fault. I had them oriented horizontally on the machined surface on the caliper, but the brake hose needed to be 90* our because it had a lip on the bottom that wouldn't allow the hose to sit flush. Once I figured out what I did wrong, I was able to get them to seal up. Very stressful in the moment when brake fluid is gushing out of both calipers!

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Tons of clearance!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/06/54577413128_23898b7bdd_b-1.jpg

Now that the rear is installed, I can finally install the rear axles and get the brakes final installed and bled.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/06/54577413103_af301b4c72_b-1.jpg

Stoked to have it finally installed, but as I found it very difficult to get the nuts installed and tightened down. Like there wasn't really enough room? I'm thinking that I may need a specialty tool or something. I was able to make it work with what I had and got everything fully torqued down and really happy with how it's all fitting together. I pulled the brand new rotors out of the box and immediately notice something's not right. The rotor can't fully seat against the axle flange. After troubleshooting, I determined that it couldn't go any further because it was being hung up by the inner parking brake.

Here's the part I missed...

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I went in for the night and made a call to Quick Performance in the morning. After troubleshooting for several minutes the tech figured out that what happened is most people order a single bolt patter for the rear axles and with that style blank they require no spacer, but I ordered a dual pattern which does require the spacer. I was happy to learn what happened and now I know what my fix is, but no I need to do what I was trying to avoid and remove the brand new axle bearing. I have a bearing puller, and bought some long all thread to get the extra reach, but the puller kept slipping off. I was getting quite frustrated at this point. Then I thought one last ditch effort would be to attempt to use my press. By some miracle, I was able to get enough of the lip and pull the bearing off completely unharmed.

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I installed the spacer, then pressed it all back together with the locking ring and was able to get it all installed correctly. You can see how much more space there is between the parking brake and flange now. Oh and the little missing spacer haha.

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Then I moved onto the driver's side. I thought it was some surface rust or something on the axle, but after I pulled it out there were some gouges in the machined surface. I again called QP and they were extremely apologetic, and quickly sent me out a replacement axle and a swag bag to say sorry for the trouble I had. I'm extremely impressed with the customer service from Quick Performance. Stuff happens, and I will gladly purchase from them again.

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I didn't take any pictures, but as soon as the axle came in, I painted the flange quick, pressed the new bearing on with a spacer and added the locking ring. Installed everything and it practically fell together.

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I didn't get any installed pictures, but my Billet CPP adjusters came in and I installed the tie rods with new MOOG inners and outers. Now the steering is all back together, and can check that off of the list.

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I also buttoned up and reinstalled all of the interior dash, steering column and reinstalled the shifter with linkage. I pulled the column so that I could install the seal and cover for the column without cutting it. Turned out pretty good. I need to trim the carpet back a little bit, but overall glad that's installed. That should significantly reduce the amount of engine heat coming into the cabin.

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I also installed the little clip that allows the shifter indicator to work. It was very inaccurate, but I lined it up so that it worked with Drive so at least that is right.

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The last thing was swapping out the ujoints so it would work with my 1350 yoke on the rear differential. Once everything was buttoned up, it was time to pull the car out of the garage again. The engine fired right up and ran very well considering I swapped the 36lb injectors for 95lb. There were some corrections that the ECU had to do, but once it learned the table around idle a bit, it smoothed right out. I backed the car out and just let it idle. I checked for leaks and was very happy when I didn't find any. I let the fans cycle and things were going great. I pulled it ahead because I was going to snap a picture with the new lowered stance. All of a sudden I heard a hissing sound and there was a fountain in the engine bay of fuel. Shut it off immediately and backed it into the parking spot outside.

After I cooled off, the next day I determined that when I made the mounts for the fuel rail on my bench, that the injectors weren't fully seated down into the intake. So the rear injector pushed down with the pressure from the fuel rail and it dropped enough for the upper oring to fall out of the seat and break the seal. It was a fairly quick fix. I determined that the new mounts needed to lower the rails by 1/8" and that's all it took. I made 4 new brackets, reinstalled and zero leaks. What a fiasco, but I'm glad it happened in the driveway rather than on the highway! After all of that, here's a picture of the new stance. I love it!!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/06/54577513785_97defb6ecb_b-1.jpg

The plan now is to find a shop that will give my car a proper front end alignment and then drive the dang thing!!

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

After calling around to different shops, I found a place fairly local that did alignments on older cars. Even the one restoration shop in town recommended them, so I made an appointment. They were able to get me in on Friday the 13th. Not sure if it's good or bad haha.

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Car was in good company, so that made me happy.

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One thing that has been terribly annoying ever since I swapped the intake and C6 Throttlebody is a loud whistling sound. I thought originally it may be a vacuum leak, but turns out after doing some research when the LS3 throttlebodies are turned upside down they can whistle badly. The solution is porting the hump that is normally on the top of the intake path. I carefully smoothed out the transition and it definitely helped, but the whistle is still there. I may need to do a full on port job to get rid of all the ridges.

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I was working on the car a little bit on father's day and decided it was time to install the lower 1955 Nomad trim on the kick panels. Trouble was the trim studs that bend over were either rusted or missing. I made some new tabs and then turned my tig welder way down and was able to fix both sides.

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I polished up the original waffle panels and then installed on my new kick panels. My father-in-law gave his light blue panels to me a few years ago and I used SEM vinyl dye to change them to black. Just haven't taken the time to fix and assemble them until now.

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I need to clean and paint the original grills, but then they can be installed for good.

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I also wanted to get the hole covered back up that I made to access the fuel pump. I bought a flange tool to create a lip, made a cover out of some thicker aluminum sheets I had, and then bent/trimmed it to fit in the recess. Came out nicely and I opted to attach it with seam sealer rather than bolting it together.

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I didn't take a picture, but I also used my router and cut out the space above the fuel pump so it wasn't putting pressure on it. I want to put to glue the carpet down on the cargo floor and the rear seats so it will be much more complete. I also think I need to glue some of the carpet down in the passenger area since it slides around quite a bit.

I took the kids to summer camp today that was at the school and got a great picture of it. Love the new stance! I do think that the springs have settled a bit though since my alignment because it seems to be darty and has a fair amount of bump steer now. I'm going to put a few hundred miles on it and see if things get better/worse. Overall I'm stoked with all the upgrades from this winter and now she's getting some miles on her.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/06/54609191133_4a23205984_b-1.jpg

Next up is a new pair of front tires. I'm thinking that may have something to do with the steering feeling darty too.

Cheers,
Ryan

[Steve68]

Keeps getting better and better, Thanks for the information on the rear end, I'm actually working on my LS rear brakes and the rear is being shortened at the racecar shop, looks like there finishing it up, have a laundry list I'm working on,

[ryeguy2006a]

I'm a big fan of the LS1 rear brakes. I've had the same brake combo on all of the cars I've built and always been very happy. C5 front and LS1 rear. Although this is the first car with something other than a vacuum booster. The iBooster brings it to a stop very quickly.

[ryeguy2006a]

It's been a while since I've had any updates. Been busy building a back porch on our house and that has taken most of my free time. I've been putting a bunch of miles on the car recently and it feels great. Wife and I have taken several longer trips with the most recent one being a 150 mile round trip to a Brewery. Runs great and finally got it out on the highway. She runs great at 80+ and just purrs along which is so much nicer than with the 3.70 gears. It's a great road trip car. I don't have a great gauge, but it must have averaged around 20 mpg with all the highway driving.

Drove to get some lunch in Culpeper, VA.

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This was leaving Cars and Coffee in Charlottesville, VA. Some guys shoot the cars as they leave. Really cool action shot and love the new lowered stance! Very happy with that.

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I think that is my favorite one.

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After C&C we saw a familiar car parked in the shopping plaza.

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I installed a flex fuel sensor as part of my winter upgrades since I was re-doing the fuel system. I finally got the tune-up all ready to go and the wiring adapter from Current performance. I didn't want to go all in, but I had about 3-4 gallons in the tank and then topped it off with 3 gallons of e85. It ran great and didn't even notice any difference in performance. Pretty cool that I have that option now. With the mix of 93 and 3 gallons of e85 it brought the ethanol up to 42%. I like having that little gauge there and should help keep the IAT's cooler when running the turbo.

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About a month ago I put a post online asking if anyone had a pair of fender trim pieces for a 55 Nomad. A few guys reached out, but one guy actually had a set that he wanted to let go. I talked with him a bit and he sent me some pictures. Then come to find out he wanted to just give them to me! I couldn't thank the guy enough!! I thought it was a scam honestly at first, but I gave him my address and about a week later they showed up.

They are heavily pitted, but are better than nothing and will really fit the look of the car. I'm going to repair some of the really heavy pits and a few cracks with a product called Muggy Weld Alloy 1. I tested it out and it works great, but you cannot have any contaminations whatsoever or it won't have good adhesion. Really looking forward to installing the trim. I'm still torn on if I should just leave the pitted/chrome and attempting to polish the aluminum pieces to match as close as I can or maybe painting flat black/silver.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/08/54698587992_75681d87ec_b-1.jpg

Hoping to attend some car shows later this summer and fall once I get the porch finished. I'm really getting close to the finish line so I want to get that behind me.

Thanks,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

I haven't updated this in a while, but thought I'd share some photos from the summer. I really haven't been doing much at all to the car other than driving it. I was looking around at local car events and came across something called the Hazzard Run that was about an hour away and gave us a good excuse to drive through the Blue Ridge mountains. The run is a Duke's of Hazzard theme, and was a lot of fun. They organized a police escort through a few small towns in central Virginia. Started in Luray, then Shenandoah, Stanley, and back to Luray.

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The Hellcat powered Hazzard police car was my favorite.

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My wife snapped this picture while we were driving. One of my favorite pictures so far.

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Trying to blend in with the regular crowd.

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We ended up putting about 125 miles on the car and she ran great. One thing that I did notice was that I kept smelling some raw fuel every so often, but it wasn't consistent. I had been smelling it ever since I had the car out this year, but chalked it up to my tune maybe needing some tweaking or something because I never found anything wrong. Then after this cruise, I was checking things out as I usually do and noticed there was some fuel leaking out of the injectors on both 7 and 8 cylinder. That was the last straw with this Dorman LS2 Intake. It looks nice, but I posted some pictures online and listed it for sale. I was either going to buy some cheap adapter plates to run the really nice LS3 intake I have, or swap back to the TBSS truck intake.

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Then it just so happened that I was looking around at intake manifolds and I found that Holley was having an Open box sale for several returned intakes without original boxes and I jumped on the last modular Lo Ram intake that they had listed. It was $350 off which was not more than what I was asking for the Dorman Intake. Then 2 days later I sold it and shipped out the Dorman intake.

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I also have been slowly collecting parts for my turbo swap and finally decided on which one I wanted. I went back and forth, and went with the 78/75 turbo with Billet wheel on eBay with the smaller .96 A/R. I was on the fence about the new turbo that Richard Holdener sells that is supposed to be a great match for smaller LS engines. It looks really nice and very similar to the VS Racing units.

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I'm starting to get really excited now. The last big parts that I need before I can start installing it is a new driveshaft, dual valve springs, and an intercooler. I've got something pretty cool in the works for that though. Should have some updates over the next few weeks.

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

Although the car is still under construction, I peeled off the old sticker for the new one. Fits the car better I think.

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Once the intake was delivered, I wasted no time with the installation. I pulled off all of the sensors from the Dorman intake and transplanted them over to the new Holley intake. I had to do a few test fits, but it fits really well overall. One thing that was interesting/annoying is that the factory LS3 MAP sensor that the intake is designed for actually contacts the gen4 oil pressure port. So I had to flip it 180* to make it work. Not a big deal, but seems like a silly oversight to me. Also, I needed to get a 45* adapter for my oil pressure sensor to clear the lid. Then I got the fuel rails, injectors and harness installed.

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I test fit the intake manifold and decided to pull the radiator and give it a good flush since I noticed some "junk" in the upper side.

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About this time I went into rush mode and stopped taking pictures as I was going. I got the lower intake torqued down and installed. Then before I installed the upper manifold I decided to add a 3/8" barb fitting for the new catch can. I've had this for a while, but have been putting off the install for one reason or another.

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I pulled the driver's valve cover to install a second passenger side valve cover so that I can use a filler adapter to -10AN.

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To be Continued...

[thedugan]

Great work and good find on that intake. Did you have to swap to a different kind of injector with the Holley setup?

[ryeguy2006a]

The Lo Ram comes with fuel rail mounts for both the LS3 and LS1 injectors which is really nice. I already had the LS3 style (shortest), so this worked great for me. If you had a different height injector though, you could always run the LS1 (tallest) and find the appropriate injector spacer from ICT Billet or similar.

[ryeguy2006a]

Had some time to finish the updates. While the intake install was happening I picked up a few parts. I wasn't necessarily looking for this, but happened to find a guy selling a 2.3L Whipple Supercharger off of a late model 5.0 Mustang GT. It was pulled for noisy rear bearings and in the meantime the guy blew up the motor and just needed cash to get the car back together. He sold it to me completely disassembled, and I'm pretty handy so I grabbed it. He sold it to me crazy cheap so I really couldn't pass on it and he was only 10 mins from my house.

It just so happens that there is a company SWS Motorsports that sells an adapter for the Holley Lo ram to a variety of Ford based superchargers... Not sure that's the direction I want to go, but is interesting. Probably will be a rebuild and sell part to fund my project.

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I also was able to pick up a really nice 1955 Belair factory radio delete. Thanks Pops!! At some point this winter I'll be building a lower center console that will hole a double din radio, cubby for switches/USB/ect with some much needed cup holders! So I wanted a cool option to cover that hole. Love how this looks and matches my worn dash bezels really well.

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Continuing the progress of getting the car back on the road, as I was test fitting the new Holley intake it became clear that I needed to move the radiator forward more than I could with the factory latch in place. So after thinking on it for a week or so, I decided to go the quick and dirty route and notched the bottom side of the latch so that I could bent the rear to a 90* and twisted the lower brace to match. I decided to keep the nutsert in place so I cut it off and relocated to match the new angled upper piece.

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With that modified, it gained me about 2" of clearance so I could slide the radiator forward where it needed to be. This won't be my long term solution, but is strong and keeps the hood latched. Doesn't look too bad for about 30 mins work. I think I want to build something like a company Sweet Components used to sell. I will likely be swapping out to the radiator for a dual pass LS swap unit at some point in the future, so I may be reconfiguring the whole assembly at some point.

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With that modified, we were able to get the car back on the road and took the car to a show on Sunday

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Love the way that intake looks!

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Even got to see a guy who had a striking resemblance to the late Hulk Hogan checking out my car.

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We had a great time at the show and had wonderful weather. Tons of really nice cars.

When we got back, I decided it was time. I pulled off my driver's side door panel to pop off the little plates the previous owners installed when they painted the car. Thankfully they didn't weld the holes. Can anyone can guess why I punched holes in the doors?

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Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

In an effort to fundraise a bit for this project, I started selling some parts from the huge lot of Nomad and 55 Belair parts I bought in the spring. The lot came with a Nomad rear liftgate that I had listed for sale with the lot of parts. I had a gentleman who was interested so I pulled it out and thought it might be worth a shot to test fit on my car to verify the degree to which it was bent. Well to my surprise, it wasn't bent at all. In fact it fit the car incredibly well. So well, that I decided to keep it rather than sell. (Sorry Carl) The downside is the chrome is in much worse condition than the one that came on my car.

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But the tradeoff is how well it fits on the car!

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I got out some steel wool and polished it the best that I could and it actually turned out better than I expected. Still much worse condition, but something I can live with.

Before

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After

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Now that the liftgate was fitting so nicely, I got sidetracked and decided to finish pulling off the rear strikers for the tailgate. I don't believe that they had ever been removed from the car and most of the hardware was frozen when I got it. Several months ago I started to remove the bolts with the impact tool. That loosened the bolts, but they still couldn't come out all the way. I used a lot of tools to get them all out. Impact, welder, heat, and etc. I got lucky that I was able to remove them all without the need to drill/tap new holes. So they are all the factory threads. You can still see the original color too. I'm leaning towards it being Sea Mist or Regal Turquoise. Any thoughts?

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I cleaned up the strikers and reinstalled with some new stainless hardware. Should be good for another 70 years!

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My next update is something I've been waiting a long time to do.

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

Ok, one last dump of photos and I'll be caught up with current day. Now that the rear of the car is tightened up significantly, it was time to start installing the eyebrows and spears. I've had the eyebrows test fit no less than a dozen times, but wasn't able to work up the courage to drill into my fenders/doors until this past weekend. When one of the previous owners restored the doors, they cut the skin halfway down and blended it together with a new skin. On the driver's door thankfully they cut below the original holes for the spears, but the passenger side they cut above that line, so I was missing the original holes. I took a bunch of measurements from the driver's side and transferred to the passenger side. I marked where the eyebrow hole needed to be, and then held up the trim as best as I could to get me into the ballpark.

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I used the driver's side keyhole as a reference guide and transferred that to the passenger side. After a bunch of test fits and being mocked up with tape, I laid out the holes and drilled the holes. I used a flexible metal ruler that I bought a while ago to get nice crisp lines. I got a little more delamination around the drill sites than I would have liked, but no turning back now.

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After the holes were drilled, I went ahead and drilled the eyebrows and fender spears. I used some blue painters tape under the fender and eyebrows then let the studs mark where they needed to be. It worked incredibly well and the trim nearly fell into place.

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There was a little nub left on each eyebrow and I wanted to figure out a way to use it to mount if I could. I found these little couplers at Lowe's that were made of aluminum and threaded #6. I was able to tap what was left of the stud, and threaded on this little extension. It seems to work great and is holding firmly.

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I didn't get any pictures of the during process, but the door spears that I have are reproduction aluminum pieces with no provisions for mounting hardware. So what I did was taped them to the doors where I wanted them, marked the back with a sharpie, then drilled/tapped the holes. I used some small fender washers and #10-32 studs/nuts. It worked really well and holds very firmly. I got in a hurry to install them, and probably should have done some epoxy in the threads so I don't have to worry about them coming apart. But I'm going to likely pull them to try and polish to match the fender spears and paint the middle at some point. I got excited to have the trim installed. I also used some thread cutting nuts on the existing studs and it worked beautifully on the fender spears.

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The tricky one was the driver's side for one reason or another. The eyebrow fit tighter to the fender, so it was harder to manipulate without cracking. When I drilled the inner hole for the eyebrow, it allowed the side mount to slide back about a 1/4" which threw all my other holes off. So I had to redrill to allow everything to shift back. Which was great becuase it made the trim fit much tighter at the door gap. The driver's side was in fairly good condition, but I didn't notice until I went to install and the front most stud that holds the eyebrow was about 1/4" shorter than the rest of the original studs. That caused the threaded nut to not have enough length to grab. After thinking on it for a while I realized that it would fit if I flipped it upside down but wouldn't have anyway to tighten. Then it occurred to me that I could Tig weld them together and allow me to tighten them! It worked beautifully and I added a washer so it didn't dig into the fender.

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I noticed that the original driver's door panel was starting to fall apart right where the upper trim meets the waffle panel. I found some thick material (cake display pieces at Wal-Mart) that was a similar thickness as the original card stock and used some contact cement to attach to the original. Let it cure for 24 hours and then I was able to reinstall.

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I also got sidetracked with other projects with the door panels off. The passenger side garnish moulding never quite fit right, so I had to weld a hole shut and then redrill. Also added the door locks and a new glove box liner.

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After driving my family a little crazy this weekend with things not going my way, but fighting through I was able to get the trim all buttoned up and installed and the interior back together. I pulled the car into the driveway and snapped a few cool pictures. They turned out way better than I thought for being my driveway.

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We took the car out for a big loop and put maybe 25 miles on it. Was beautiful driving through the back country roads with all the fall leaves. I'm hoping to take the car out to drive on Skyline Drive in the Blue Ridge Mountains this weekend.

Seems silly, but a huge milestone for me to have the car riding with the original trim once again. Most people will have no idea or ask why my trim is so pitted, but if you know you know. Fender trim is hard to find regardless of condition.

Cheers,
Ryan

[Pingar]

The pitted chrome goes well with the look you have going. One of my fav builds on this site.

[ryeguy2006a]

Thanks! I'm really happy with how the trim turned out.

[ryeguy2006a]

Thankfully, I've just been driving the car and haven't done anything to it recently. I'm happy to report that I finally clocked in over 1000 miles since putting it back together this spring. Would have liked to drive it more, but the porch project took up a lot of my summer. I even let my sister-in-law put in some miles! First time I've ever spent time in the back seat. Actually pretty darn comfortable.

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I've been slowly collecting parts for the next stages of the build. I want to say a huge thanks to @Crawdad55 who send me some really great parts that I can't wait to get installed on the car. Will definitely go a long way towards retrofitting AC!

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I also met up recently with a guy who removed an original Vintage Air Gen1 unit from his car and gave me a great price on it. Apparently shortly after it was installed in the late 90s the compressor blew, and he never got that part fixed. Recently he decided to pull it all out and go back to an original heater box. We weren't too far from each other, so we met in the middle. I took my car and it was a beautiful day for a cruise. Unbelievably he had the original installation instructions too! My engine bay is getting very tight, so I'll be trying out one of those 12v compressor pumps that I've been seeing online since I won't have the room once the turbo is mounted.

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Last but certainly not least is one of the last big components that I needed before the turbo swap can begin. My buddy upgraded to the ultra low profile intercooler, and sold me the original unit that he had for a great price. The unit is beautifully built.

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I need to buy a heat exchanger, reservoir and turbo drain lines and I'll be ready to make the swap. Colder weather is moving in so that may be a great time to start the swap.

Cheers,
Ryan

[Vimes]

If the compressor went it might have blown junk through the evaporator inside the dash unit. You can send it back to Vintage Air for a refresh. I sent one back to them and the cost isn't that bad. If not, you risk the last compressor's remains destroying the new one. It's supposedly possible to backflush an evaporator and get the junk out, but you'd always be wondering about it.

[ryeguy2006a]

It's been a few months since I've had any meaningful updates, but I've been busy this past weekend. About 2 weeks ago it snowed about 3-4" overnight and I had to get a photo with the car in the fresh snow. Love the way they turned out.

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I had been holding off on starting the turbo install since many times we don't get snow until late January/early February when they put down salt or salt brine. Well they laid it down on the roads so that was my cue to get the car up on wheel stands to start the winter mods. First up was to get the complete passenger's side exhaust removed. Starting with the manifold back to the muffler and tailpipe. Then it was the first real test fit of the turbo log with the billet wheel 7875 turbo.

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Everything cleared as I expected it to because I have had this manifold on back when I originally installed the LS in the car. My original plan was to install this manifold but run it N/A with a dummy turbo pipe in place that just routed it back. But I scrapped that idea since the vband could be in so many different places and I didn't want to modify the exhaust multiple times. Only thing that needs adjustment is one zerk fitting on the upper control arm needs to be relocated as it points directly at the manifold. Next up was test fitting the turbo! It has tons of clearance everywhere which makes me very happy.

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Then I had to mock up the Tick intercooler brick to see if it has any clearance issues. It is very close to the wiper motor, but has about 1/2" clearance around the whole thing. It couldn't fit any better around the motor!

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So close, but it doesn't touch. I'll definitely keep an eye on it though for any witness marks with the engine shifting around.

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The turbo outlet to TB opening is tight, but I think with a few tight 90* elbows it will fit.

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Next up was making sure that with the taller intake that I'd have enough hood clearance. First attempt I wasn't even touching the hood, second attempt didn't either, and then on the third attempt I was finally making contact with the hood. Even with the added 3.25" intercooler brick, I still have over 2" of clearance between the intake and hood! That was a pleasant surprise.

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Now it was time to see what the exhaust fitment was going to look like. With the battery right there, I thought it may be sort of tight, but after trimming the pipe down a bit, I'll have plenty of clearance around everything. I realized though that I'm going to need to get the crossover fit and mocked up though before I get too far with building this downpipe. I want to make sure that there is good fitment while also leaving a little room to grow in the future. I am running a 3" downpipe which I'm sure many will say that I should just go with 4", but I'm not sure for the power level that I want that is necessary. So I have a 3" mandrel bent stainless exhaust that I'm running back to the same muffler. I am however going to add a vband to replace the exhaust clamps that have been leaking since day 1.

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One last picture where the billet wheel is visible.

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That's all for now, but next up is the radiator, heat exchanger and A/C condenser fitment and mockup. I've got a lot of things to fit into a fairly small place, but I'm confident that I'll get it all to fit.

Cheers,
Ryan

[Vimes]

That is a pretty nice looking setup. The battery location would worry me though - it's going to be right on top of the turbo and exhaust. Combine that with summertime and it's gonna cook.

No idea if this will help with charge air routing, but https://www.holley.com/products/engine/intake_manifolds/efi_intake_manifolds/cast/hi-ram/parts/300-301

[ryeguy2006a]

I'll be wrapping up the exhaust pipes for sure. That is definitely a concern of mine as well. I'll also relocate the wires that are close to the pipes.

[JuStBlAzIN]

Great project! I read you like the ibooster. Was it hard to get used to driving? I am going from manual brakes to an ibooster soon and doing research. Any drawbacks you see? Do you miss a regular booster?

[ryeguy2006a]

I love the Ibooster, it does a great job with my C5 front and LS1 rear brakes. They are a bit touchy so it did take a bit of getting used to not aggressively hitting the brakes. I've considered adding a spring to add more resistance to the pedal to try and help with it, but haven't gotten around to that yet. It's definitely an upgrade over manual brakes.

[ryeguy2006a]

Hope everyone had a Merry Christmas (or other holidays celebrated) and Happy New Year! I was able to get quite a done on the few down days we had during our time off. After going around and back and forth trying to decide where the best location will be for the wastegate, I finally decided to locate it similarly to where the Huron Speed truck kit does on their log manifold. This should give a good priority wastegate flow. I wanted to locate it straight inline with the exhaust flow at the elbow, but there were too many other things in the way and it would also make for a long pipe back into the downpipe. I'll be able to tuck it up nicely and will clear the inner fender and allow for easy access to change springs if needed. It also gives a nice clear shot to route the wastegate exhaust back into the main exhaust.

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I pulled off the manifold and mocked everything up on my welding table. That way I could get to things much easier to mock it all up. Used some CAD from an old paper towel roll haha.

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Once I nailed down the location where I wanted to the pipe to come out, I started drilling with the hole saw. Those manifolds are thick! I destroyed 2 before I finally bored all the way through. Then I trimmed up some of the summit racing 304 stainless pipe that I bought for the job. They had a nice mandrel bent pipe with a 180* and some long sections with a 45* as well. Cut off a section to get it mocked in position then test fit on the car.

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This was the first of about 37 times the manifold was bolted on with the turbo, then down pipe to check for fitment.

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Once I was happy with the fitment, I tacked the first pipe into place. I then determined that I needed another small pipe to angle the wastegate up and at a different angle. I cut and tacked that piece into place and was happy with the fitment. It was tight, but cleared everything. I didn't get any pictures during, but I set up the TIG and purge welded to eliminate the oxidation behind the weld. I'm still practicing with the TIG, but I turned the amps way up and got full penetration into the cast manifold. I made sure to use 309L filler wire that has good adhesion with dissimilar metals such as welding steel to stainless steel.

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Here's the test fit fully welded to see the clearance. Will be relocating those wires up and away from the heat.

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Here's my purge welding setup. I actually used my son's 3D printer to make that little puck for the end of the pipe. Worked really nicely too.

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I didn't take any pictures while I was welding, since I wanted to move quickly to avoid using up more gas than I needed. But here's the end results. I welded everything fully bolted together to avoid warping or shifting. I'm very happy with the way it turned out. I'm pretty happy with how I progressed with my welding as the project went on. I was able to get the settings pretty dialed in.

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Then at long last, I was able to do a final mock up with the completed pipes. I need to pull them off one last time to paint the log manifold where I welded it, then wrap the down pipe with header wrap to protect the battery.

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That's basically what the end result will be. I'm very happy with how nicely it tucks up and in.

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I finally received all the parts for adding the AC condenser, heat exchanger and a new radiator. I'm working now on mocking up all the components to see how they all work together. Hopefully it won't take too much work to get them all to live happily together. Now that the more difficult fabrication work is done on the hot side, I just need to connect the crossover pipe to my passenger side log. Does anyone have a good recommendation for a higher quality flex pipe?

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

Next on the list was to start mocking up all the coolers and see how they work together. Given the minor damage on the radiator that came in my car and that it had something inside of it, I opted to order a new radiator from Auto City Classics. I hadn't seen it before, but they offer a dual mount for installing radiators in either V8 or 6 Cylinder positions. What I'm hoping is that I can use the V8 mount in my 6 cylinder radiator support to center the radiator and sneak the heat exchanger between the condenser and set back radiator. This will require that I cut the core support cross bar and build a new one, but I think it will be my best bet.

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This new radiator has a slightly smaller core than the old one in the car, but I'll be able to make my modified C7 fan work with a little bit of trimming or maybe different brackets. That's a huge relief.

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And here's the heat exchanger on top of the radiator. They have nearly the same size core, so that should make for an efficient heat exchanger. Also, the distance between the mounting tabs is about 1/4" longer than the distance inside of the AC condenser brackets. This is supposed to be an upgraded unit for a Cobalt SS.

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AC brackets are installed using the stock hardware and locations, so that made things very easy.

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First test fit of the condenser was disappointing. The filler panel hit the condenser and required some clearance around a hump to fit. I was hoping that it would have fit in without modification, but that's how it goes sometimes. It was minor, but I didn't want to change the location of the condenser because it came with pre-bent hard lines to the dryer. I know this isn't the final location where I will put it, but thought it would be good to test fit to get some measurements. It's going to be very close, but doable.

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I was also looking at different options for the heater block off that is needed for Vintage Air Gen1 unit. I found that Old Air Products sells a Bypass Heater Valve, Cable Operated, Pull to close 25-1019 that will close the flow to the heater box, but allows for recirculation. This is a better option for LS engines so that the coolant is still flowing through the ports. Some have had issues plugging them off so I figured this would be a safe option.

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Last up was just a cool trade that I stumble on. I found a guy selling a Whipple supercharger that was disassembled and needed new rear bearings, so I picked it up really cheap. I found what it needed and slowly assembled it and got it all back together properly. I had it online for sale on FB Marketplace with an option to trade for LS parts. Some guy reached out and had a T56 transmission with new clutch, TOB, shifter and a few other new parts for trade. I had to meet him about 2.5 hours away, but it was much more useful to me than the supercharger. A company SWS motorsports sells an adapter plate for this supercharger to LS motors using the Holley Lo Ram which was an option, but I decided to stay turbo.

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It's a little dirty, but should clean up nicely. Now I kinda want to find a cheap IROC or T/A 3rd gen roller and 5.3 motor to make a fun daily driver.

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That brings me up to present. I'm hoping to get the hot side wrapped up soon, and then I can focus on getting the cold side buttoned up. I can't wait to hear all of the turbo noises!

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

Continuing to make steady progress. After taking lots of measurements and getting the AC condenser mounted, I knew that was as far forward as I could go. I determined that with the dual mounts on the radiator support, that I would have just enough room to mount the heat exchanger right between the condenser and the radiator. However, that required some cutting. I made a jig for myself before I made any cuts so that I could make a new center mount with the same width before I made any cuts.

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The big cut.

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Now it was time to test fit the radiator using the V8 mounts in the 6 cylinder radiator support. This essentially centers the radiator between the radiator support and will give me plenty of room to mount the heat exchanger.

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I just have the heat exchanger sitting in this position to confirm that the width will work for me. So happy that it all fits together. I'll rotate the heat exchanger 90* so that the outlets are pointing towards the driver's side where it's less cluttered. I'll mount the heat exchanger pump down low, so I'll find somewhere for that to live. What is even cooler is that by dumb luck, the distance between the AC brackets and the heat exchanger mounts is about 1/8". I'll be able to trim down the mounts just slightly and use the mounts that came on the heat exchanger.

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It is fun building cars, but sometimes you take 2 steps forward and one step back. I think that I have a plan that will solve this issue, but I need to do a bit more research. If it works, it will also solve my turbo charge piping issue as well.

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I'm fairly confident that a new or modified intake lid would solve my charge pipe and coolant hose issues. So, after a friend send me a picture of a really cool design he did on fusion, it got me thinking about was CAD options were out there. Then I realized that Chat GPT does a really good job of photoshop and asked it to modify the generic Holley lid. Here's what it came up with after I asked it to move the throttlebody opening to the front and added some ribbing.

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Pretty impressive actually! I don't mind it at all. Then I noticed that people were using it to export to CAD and AI would be able to spit out a model. So I gave it a shot... Well we're not quite there yet with AI haha

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Moving back to the hot side fabrication. I thought that the pipes were welded enough that I could unbolt the downpipe to finish up some welding in tight spots, but unfortunately it still warped and moved on me. So, this time I took no chances and kept it all bolted together to weld and cool. I decided the best course of action was to cut the pipe that recirculates the wastegate back to the exhaust. This also gave me an opportunity to get a burr bit into the hard to reach spots to clean up any flash and excess exhaust piping that was hanging out there. Hopefully this avoids any strange sounds or whistles.

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Once that was done, I took it all back apart and confirmed fitment on the car and it all fit together just like it came apart. Very nice! Now it was time to start connecting the rest of the hot side together. This took a lot more effort than I thought, but I now have all the pipes tacked together and things fit great.

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That's all for now. Hoping to get some time here and there throughout the week to get the hot side pipes all welded up now that I have it all cut and fit. I'm also going to add an exhaust hanger at the rear where it goes around the transmission to support the weight. Once that is finished up, I can work on the rest of the downpipe and get the muffler hooked back up. I'm probably going to just keep the muffler and side exhaust to keep things simple. If I have time I may try to mock up a pipe to go over the axle.

Thanks,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

I've been continuing to work on the down pipe and decided to add another vband near the frame, so that I could remove the pipe much easier. I put a few tack welds on the pipes, then my old welding mask died on me. It was a cheaper unit I got on Amazon probably 10 years ago, so it's served it's purpose for me. When looking around I found a Vulcan unit that was on sale so I picked that one up. What a huge difference it made being able to see. The viewing window is significantly larger than the old one I had, and the auto dim is much more sensitive.

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With the practice I've been doing on the pipes and with the new helmet, I was able to lay down some of the best welds I've done so far. Pretty happy with how they turned out.

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I still need to weld the O2 bung to the pipe, and that section will be done. Then I am going to redo my tailpipe and the full hot side will be fully welded. I'm going to wrap the crossover pipe and add a hanger that will attach to the transmission. Then I can call the hotside completed.

I started to test fit my other components and the turbo drain that came with the VS racing kit wouldn't allow the fitting to be tightened because it hit the housing bolts. I bought an extended drain fitting and that one was too tall. So I opted to trim off the one that came in the kit and weld the -10AN bung I had to it. I've only welded a few things that were Aluminum and I definitely need more practice, but it's stuck together.

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Right about this time we were hit with a huge snow storm that brought 7" of snow and about a 1/4" of ice on top of it all. I had to move my tractor into the garage to keep it from gelling up as the temps dropped to sub-zero. My welding station had to be taken down to fit it inside.

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The temps finally came back up this week and decided it was time to move the tractor back outside. With that outside I decided to tackle the mounting of the heat exchanger and see what the final fitment of my cooling blocks will be. I started by locating the heat exchanger within the vintage air brackets. It fits perfectly in between which makes me very happy. I had to cut some holes into the driver's side to allow for the heat exchanger lines to come out.

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Once I confirmed fitment and ensured that there was enough room for me to tighten the VA condenser fittings, I drilled the side mounting holes. It came together really cleanly. The radiator will tuck in nicely as well. Very happy with this setup so far.

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I still need to finalize the fitment of the cooling fan which should fit about 1" closer to the radiator once mounted. The radiator hose will be tight, but I'll be able to sneak it up and around once I trim off a bit of the hose inlet and move the radiator fan.

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One last thing that is unexpected, but super cool is the rear battery relocation. A guy I've been messaging on line with for a few years works with a restoration shop and did a 56 Nomad and designed this really cool rear battery pocket in CAD. I've been wanting to do that every since I bought the car, but didn't want to take the time to build one. I paid him to let me use his file, then sent it into Send Cut Send. Was very impressed with the company's site as this is the first time I've worked with them. They offered options for me to add bends which is super helpful. In under a week it was delivered to my door. I also picked up a Gen6 Camaro battery cable which has a factory rear mounted battery. Is very heavy gauge wire and will make relocating the battery much easier.

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I bought a bunch of TIG Filler rod too so I'm hoping to use this project to get more seat time. I'm still up in the air at this point about how I'm going to do my cold side. I'm either going to buy a new lid that will line up the TB with the turbo outlet, cut and reweld my stock lid, or build a cold side pipe two really tight 90* bends. I need to decide soon.

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

I decided to take a break from working on the exhaust pipes to get the cooling fan mounted onto the new radiator. After tossing around several ideas, I finally decided that I needed to add a few tabs to the radiator to hold the fan. That meant that I needed to bite the bullet and start practicing on my aluminum welding. I've been welding steel/stainless steel for many years, but aluminum is new territory. I had some coupons from a tig welding kit I bought a long time ago and surprisingly the beads looked pretty good after I dialed in my settings.

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The first two tabs were a bit hot so they melted too much, and I was getting used to how the puddle reacts.

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The next two turned out pretty good IMO.

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All ready to install now. Thankfully the wiring and everything is the same, so there won't be any changes needed there.

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With the final fitment after I trimmed the fans a bit closer, it clears by about a half inch now.

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Now back to the exhaust pipes. After fumbling around with the fitment this whole time I pulled the trigger on a set of these exhaust fitment tools for tack welding pieces together. These are worth it and wished I had them from the beginning!

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Got the O2 bung welded in and then fit up the final location for the muffler. I'm running the same Walker Quietflow stainless muffler from the beginning. I moved it slightly closer to the frame so that it cleared the ebrake components. When I first built the exhaust I didn't have that installed and it contacted the muffler, so ever since I had to have it twisted down which I didn't like. Now it's nice and flat.

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The big cut... I won't lie, I did hesitate for a minute. No turning back now!!

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When I made the initial cut, I measured about a half inch longer than I needed to account for any changes that I needed to make. Then I slowly crept up on the final location. I ended up cutting an additional half inch to recess the flange, but kept the outer sides to help locate the flange. This helped out a lot when I tack welded it together.

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Since I paid the Holley tax on the parts, I wanted to make sure to keep that logo intact after all the modifications.

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My initial measurements were close that I may not need to add pieces to the sides, but the way the inlet is shaped, I didn't have an choice.

I had some thick pieces of aluminum left over from another project, and they worked perfectly as filler plates for the sides. Once I shaped them for a nice fitment on the sides, I tack welded everything together.

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And the final test fit is just what I was hoping for. Everything fits everywhere and I'm very happy with the charge pipe angles and the stock radiator hoses are now a great fit.

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Needs a little trimming, but will clear everything! Huge win.

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To be continued...

[ryeguy2006a]

At this point the intake lid is ready to be welded. I was having a bit of trouble getting the weld to puddle up on the thick 1/2" TB flange, and I had been in contact with a local guy who does some great fabrication on racecars. I reached out to see if he'd be interested in welding the flange to my TB and he was extremely reasonable so opted to have the professional do this job. His own personal turbo car has seen as high as 40 psi and he assured me that I won't have any issues with the 8-12psi I'll be running.

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He was very careful around the TB holes on the top of the intake so I didn't have to take a whole lot of effort to tap them. Nice touch.

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Very quick turn around as well. I dropped it off Saturday and picked it up Sunday night. I think what I'm going to attempt is to sand down the welds and very lightly needle scale the surfaces to replicate a cast finish. I'm going to do a few test pieces to see how the results are. I'd love to make it look like an intake lid that Holley never made and fool some people.

I dug out the CWA50 heat exchanger pump I bought quite a while ago. They are off of 2012ish BMW's with factory turbos and is a Pierburg unit which flows a lot of coolant. They are a great budget option to the universal CWA50 pumps.

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One unique thing is that the inlet uses a quick connect fitting. You can buy a piece from URO that's made for a Volkswagen heater or radiator hose.

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I placed an order from Summit for hopefully the last pieces that I need for this turbo swap. I grabbed a supercharger reservoir from Magnuson, AEM click dial, Low Dollar wastegate/BOV plumbing kit and the pipes/clamps for the charge pipes. I also bought the Sloppy Mechanics Dial a boost unterminated kit since they were sold out of the full kit. I'm not sure if I'll ever really run it on the low boost setting, but I really like the idea of being able to change the boost level with the click of the dial.

I'm down to just a handful of plumbing items such as turbo drain/feed, radiator hoses, heat exchanger hoses, and mounting the heat exchanger coolant reservoir and pump. I'm sure there are a bunch of other little things that I'll need to knock out, and I'm getting very excited to wrap up the winter upgrades. Hopefully within the next few weeks I can the car started up and see if it will make any boost.

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

Been slowly chipping away and checking things off the list. I'm close enough to the end, I decided to make another punch list to keep me on track. I'll probably add a few things as I go, but hoping to possibly get the car out this weekend if it all goes to plan and the parts I ordered come in.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55128487026_5d28e153ce_b-1.jpg

After a bunch of thinking on how I wanted to mount the heat exchanger pump, I finally decided to just make my own bracket. I copied the idea from the catch can mount I have, and this worked out great. It's solidly mounted, with a rubber isolator so it should be happy there. Also doesn't interfere with the overflow tank so that won't need to be relocated.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55123916897_06e25aaf70_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55125188955_c66149ba8c_b-1.jpg

With that mounting location finalized, I could plan for the hoses and where they will need to be routed. Notched the lower and used a hole saw on the upper hose. Will have a nice gentle curve for the lines to follow. I bought a few Dayco hoses that have a 90* bend with about 60" of hose length that I'll be able to use to avoid any tight curves like the lower hose.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55124792316_e2bfe61b42_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55125047939_a2dd62bb58_b-1.jpg

Next up is the Magnuson heat exchanger swirl pot/ reservoir which I found as a necessity when I was building my Camaro with the LSA engine. The heat exchanger pump needed more capacity to avoid draining the lines and creating aeration. This should help to get all the air bubbles out as well. I haven't finalized the mounting location yet, but it will be somewhere on the driver's side inner fender making sure that it's located higher than the Tick intercooler brick.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55126363932_eb09908a19_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55127638100_2fcd1efd63_b-1.jpg

I picked up some Lava Rock heat wrap from Summit and wanted to wrap up the crossover, log manifold and downpipe to help keep the heat inside the pipes and drop underhood temps. It's also supposed to help with the spooling of the turbo, so hopefully it's worth the effort. It was a much bigger pain than I thought... The metal zip ties that came with the kit were junk. I ended up using some stainless steel hose clamps which I read work much better. Glad this is over, but very happy with the results.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55128677078_6dbd49bfa9_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55127606822_0388cf6a2f_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55127241491_9f1c21b2eb_b-1.jpg

I didn't get any pictures, but there was a lip inside of the intake lid after I had it welded. I took some carbide and drum roll disks and smoothed out the transition so the air had a nice path to flow. I also started planning out the hardware that I'll need to attach the lid. With the angle of the tubes on the side of the intercooler, it wasn't possible to get the bolts into the lid. I realized that if I used a burr to allow the bolt to go in at a slight angle that it would fit into the slot and work. So after carefully clearance the hole, I was able to sneak a shorter bolt in there. Win! Untouched on the left, and clearanced on the right.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55128487011_a89687c9e5_b-1.jpg

I'm getting very close to the point where I can start installing parts for a final time and I'm very happy about that. The weather is starting to turn here in VA and I'm so ready to see how the turbo responds. I think the last task that will be a pain will be making new transmission cooler lines. I originally routed the cooler lines on the passenger side, but with all the pipes and lines that I added on that side, it's too crowded. I'm going to loop them around the rear and come in on the driver's side. I'm still unsure of where I'm going to mount the cooler, but it will likely be right in front of the condenser on the driver's side. This time I'm going with aluminum lines with adapters to go to the 6AN fittings. I'm hoping that in addition to the cooler, that the aluminum lines will also help to dissipate heat.

Thanks,
Ryan

[Vimes]

That's some good looking work, but I see two small issues that should be addressed. It may just be the angle of the pic, but I'd hate to see an avoidable breakdown report later on. :twothumbs

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55124792316_e2bfe61b42_b-1.jpg

The picture shows that the top hose is right up against the cut metal. It appears that hose will be cut in a short amount of time as the engine and body flex while driving. The hole needs to be a bit bigger so the hose clears entirely, and the hose needs to be supported to keep it off the edge.

The picture shows a collapsing bend in the hose, and the pump is just past that bend. The pump may be strong enough to suck that shut after a few heat cycles on the rubber. I'd suggest replacing that with a hose that has a formed bend, install a metal 90 degree bend there or put a stainless steel spring inside the hose like what is used on lower radiator hoses. It's a little harder to see, but the hose looks like it's up against the cut metal there too. Could be wrong.

[ryeguy2006a]

Thanks for looking out Vimes, I appreciate that. As soon as the replacement hose comes in I'll be replacing the lower HX hose with a formed 90* so I have no issues with flow. The top hose has the same amount of clearance all the way around so no risk of cutting through. It's just the angle of the picture. :smoke: