Madaguy 1955 Nomad Build

[ryeguy2006a]

The progress continues. I wasn't completely happy with the AN transmission lines that I made when I first got the car going, so I decided to take a different route. I bought a roll of 3/8" Aluminum seamless tubing with some AN fitting adapters. It was a lot of up and down, measuring then making the bends, but I'm very happy with how they turned out. I picked up a nice bender from Harbor Freight and it did a great job on the bends. I made sure to install the exhaust to be sure I wasn't going to be in the way of the pipes.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55137060187_64632651e0_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55138179329_16232ebd35_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55138119183_44bda969d8_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55137940671_ef29cac6a8_b-1.jpg

I originally had planned to run them to a bulkhead fitting and then run flex lines to the cooler, but changed my mind. Many OEM's run the hard lines right to the coolers without issues, so that eliminates several leaking points. With the placement of the lines finalized, I could notch the closeout panels and get some components bolted down for a final time.

Next up was deciding how to mount the transmission cooler. After some thought, I opted to just keep it simple and bolt on a 1/8" x 1" strap steel. I welded some studs to the back side, then ground them flush so they laid flat on the condenser.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55138179114_ef27a522d3_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55138179089_ec1088d4a3_b-1.jpg

Once the brackets were finished, I painted and reinstalled them on the condenser. I ended up pulling the grill out so that I could do a proper job bending the transmission lines. I tried to take my time and keep things as symmetrical as possible.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55137940311_48c972b9d9_b-1.jpg

The key word was that I tried. I was thinking ahead and put the tube sleeve and nut on the lines so that I wouldn't forget them before I flared the line. However, I was thinking too far ahead and made a 90* bend and trapped the sleeve onto the line. Being the line is aluminum, you can't bend it straight and rebend it. The metal will work harden and collapse. I very carefully cut it off and had to order a new one from Jeg's. Hopefully it comes by Wednesday this week.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55138178939_5e25355c61_b-1.jpg

Next was to install the AC Dryer and bracket that came with the condenser kit from VA. It's really nice to just bolt stuff together without having to build your own bracketry. It also came with pre-bent lines, that only required a slight tweak to fit perfectly. I had to move around some of my electrical connections, but everything fit together just like before. Very happy about that. Still need to tidy up the wiring, but that's almost back together for a final time.

Lastly for this update is the condenser/heat exchanger/transmission cooler assembly installed for the final time. I'm very happy with how symmetrical it turned out and love the aluminum lines coming off both sides contrasts with the black cooling units. Once the new tube sleeve comes in I'll flare the tube and then I can reinstall the grill.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55138178919_13ede5e5e4_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55138178754_ef12d3814b_b-1.jpg

I checked off a lot of items on my list this weekend. The biggest was the transmission cooler relocation with new lines. I'm still waiting on some 3/4" hoses with 90* bends so that I can finish installing the heat exchanger/intercooler hoses. I also swapped all the plugs to a NGK TR6 for a cooler heat range while the turbo manifold was off the car and much easier to access. I'll be tightening up all of the exhaust connections and firing up the car very soon. I'm hoping the next update will include an update with a test drive!

Cheers,
Ryan

[Vimes]

Looking good.

[ryeguy2006a]

After some debate on my end, I chose to do add some manifold fittings onto the front of the intake manifold rather than try and get to them from the rear. It's very tight on the back side of the intake so this will also make servicing them much easier. One fitting is for the catch can, and the other is a manifold reference for the wastegate and BOV. I carefully covered everything inside and out so no debris got into the intake runners. Carefully measured for the center of the intake and then made some chips.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55137059602_362242e37b_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55138331730_79224147c7_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55138331595_0d819ba180_b-1.jpg

I still need to tidy up the wiring, but the dryer is installed and the lines are blocked off so no debris will get inside until I'm ready to install the AC lines. I love how nicely it tucks down low and out of the way.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55137939756_cf55250678_b-1.jpg

I had a heck of a time getting the rear two intercooler bolts on the back side of the intake tightened. I ended up having to make a tool in order to get them tightened. I had a spare wrench, so it went under a little surgery to make what I needed. Worked great and I could use another wrench to get more leverage to fully tighten it down.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55137939821_3f714d039e_b-1.jpg

Since I needed to order a new tube sleeve for the transmission cooler lines anyway, I opted to order a new roll of Aluminum lines and re-make the one cooler line. I went back and forth on redoing it because the lines are a pain to install, but I decided to go for it. I accidently made the 90* bend the wrong way when and attempted to twist the line, but it started to kink. Once the new parts arrived, I got to work replicating the first line. It wasn't bad at all since I had a really nice template.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55151164925_08b5d3aef1_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55150950693_6197f88b8e_b-1.jpg

Since the aluminum is so soft, it can kink really easily. I found an easy way to bend it almost straight is to hold it on a flat surface and roll it out holding the one side straight. It gets the line 95% straight, and then you can make careful little tweaks to get it the rest of the way.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55149897417_c113b7e08a_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55150787791_447a3e52e7_b-1.jpg

I didn't take more pictures since it was redundant, but the new line is completely finished and looks (and likely performs) way better than it did. Now that is done, I was able to reinstall the grill. Glad more pieces are going back on.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55150787721_4304a414b5_b-1.jpg

The heat exchanger hoses that I bought two weeks ago finally were delivered, so that I can start to finish plumbing for the air to water intercooler system. I started at this lower hose. It fits just like I wanted to and looks great. The transmission cooler lines are also there and am very happy with how symmetrical they look.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55151020959_281e509baf_b-1.jpg

Here's the box of Dayco 80418 hoses. They are 3/4" with a tight 90* on one end and 60" of hose on the other. I know a lot of guys use these for the "LS Swap" heater hoses, but this also worked great for this application.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55151165390_b36fb2f412_b-1.jpg

I had bought a cheap bead roller for charge pipes online, but it ended up being junk which is no surprise. The guy that welded my intake said he had a bead roller and I was able to trim up the pipe and take it over to him this weekend. Looks great and is now ready for a BOV flange!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55149897597_c02cbf502e_b-1.jpg

Here's where the BOV is going to live. I'm going to trim up the coupler a little bit once the flange is welded in place, then it will get bolted down.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55149897787_18017a98a3_b-1.jpg

I'm really glad that I planned ahead for this turbo build several years ago when I was first putting the car together. Before I installed the oil pan for good, I drilled and tapped it for my turbo drain. I used a 1/2" NPT, so all I had to do was pull the plug and replace with my fitting. Love an easy job!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55150788496_7700427372_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55150788396_938ac4752c_b-1.jpg

Built and installed the drain line as well. That was very straightforward as well.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55151021644_4244b605b6_b-1.jpg

The list is starting to get quite small now. It won't be long now until I can see if all this work paid off!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55149897687_9909e0de8b_b-1.jpg

Last big things are reinstalling the radiator, building a mount for the catch can, mounting the HX, finish plumbing HX, and a few misc. hoses and wiring. I can't wait.

Cheers,
Ryan

[Larry Callahan]

Nice progress!

[ryeguy2006a]

Thanks Larry!

Now that the charge pipe is mocked up and I'm happy with where I can place the BOV, it was ready to be burned in. I left the pipe intact while welding and then used a hole saw to drill out the center. Worked really nicely to prevent me from burning through the pipe. I practiced a little on some scrap aluminum, then pulled the trigger on the real piece. It turned out pretty good considering it's one of the few aluminum pieces I've welded.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55163854236_acd13fef32_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55164017308_4eaefb8d5c_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55164017078_86c8fb4d6a_b-1.jpg

After that was all done it was time to get the pipe installed and bolted down for good.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55164232590_a164e511db_b-1.jpg

I built a new bracket for the catch can and switched over to mild steel this time. I was going along pretty good, then I think I built up too much heat and it started to glob up at the end of the weld. Plenty strong though.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55162956527_b634cae0af_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55163853266_242d07a056_b-1.jpg

This is when I stopped getting as many pictures because I was just trying to grind out the work. My dad also stopped by this weekend for a visit and he helped me with some small things and verify fitment. We mounted the coolant swirl pot for the intercooler and I was able to get all of the lines routed nice and neatly. You can also see the finished catch can routing.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55162956007_485bfd7f4c_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55164016223_0c43522216_b-1.jpg

One of the last things that I needed to do was cut a hole for the CAI. There are many ways that I could have routed this, but I liked the clean look of routing it through the inner fender and having the filter in front of the tire.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55164232250_3ceb74b216_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55164016708_b5f0e87442_b-1.jpg

Now after a little test fitting it became clear that I need an additional pipe to route the filter a little differently, but overall very pleased with the fitment of everything. I ordered it and that should be here soon. This was after the first test fit. I was able to loosen the pipe and reclock it higher which gained me another inch, but still would contact the tire at around 3/4 of the wheel turned. Good enough for an initial test drive!!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55162955362_8a775cdf1b_b-1.jpg

At this point, I had waited long enough and just wanted to see if this thing would actually run/drive and build boost! The one last thing that I needed to do before I could shut the hood was to drill out the rivets for the hood baffle. With the center mounted radiator, that baffle was contacting the radiator. For now, I just drilled them out which allowed for the hood to shut. One thing that I didn't get a chance to do was wire up the heat exchanger coolant pump, so for now I was effectively running it without an intercooler, but I just had to hear it run and drive it down the road again.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55164231665_821a83b9da_b-1.jpg

I had my dad help to prime the oil system and make sure there was oil feeding the turbo before I fired it up for the first time in 2026. Cranked with no fire... Hmmm... checked everything and ended up leaving the TB unplugged. Plugged that back in and it immediately fired right up! I let it run for a minute or two to check for leaks. Not one leak!! At this point I left off the full exhaust because I wanted to confirm there were no leaks with the new transmission lines. I quickly installed the rest of the exhaust and then lowered it back down onto the ground and backed it out of the driveway again. That felt amazing.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55164015978_4b64ab22f8_b-1.jpg

I let it run up to temperature and I had also tripped the breaker for the cooling fans at some point. Once that was reset, the fans kicked on and the temps stabilized. Then my Dad, my youngest son and I drove it up and down the road maybe 3 miles round trip. Everything felt great, and best of all the car built some boost! The coolest part for me was when I let off the throttle and the BOV made that whoosh sound. Such a cool sound! We brought it back and then let it all cool off. I took out the car again yesterday this time with just my Dad and I was able to really get on it. We made a few WOT pulls and the car performed great. It definitely feels more powerful, but I'd still like more. I left the 8 psi springs in that came installed from Summit. When I reviewed the datalog, it looked like the most boost it saw was 135 kpa or ~5psi. I think what I'll do is swap out the springs for the 17psi combination of springs which will hopefully net more like 10-12psi where I'm targeting. I couldn't be happier with the car overall and it's also quieter at cruising speeds which is a nice fringe benefit. The older I get the quieter I'm liking the cars haha. One thing I also thought was really cool is that even without the intercooler hooked up the highest the IAT's saw was 140 and it was about 85* yesterday so it was a pretty good stress test.

Here are some nearly final engine bay pictures. Once everything burns off with the heat wrap, turbo and whatnot, I'll install the turbo blanket. I think that will help keep things much cooler in the engine compartment.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55164015763_09b048fce1_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55164098464_c2c7bfa16c_b-1.jpg

Cheers,
Ryan

[jaybee]

Ah, now that's a rewarding day!

[dhutton]

Like :)

[JuStBlAzIN]

Amazing to see it run! How did you like the brakes?

[ryeguy2006a]

Thanks guys, I appreciate it. Very happy it's back on the road. The brakes are outstanding. I'm running the Tesla Model S iBooster with BBT billet adapter, C5 front brakes, 98-02 Fbody rear brakes and 3/16" NiCopp lines.

[ryeguy2006a]

As with all new builds, there are a few bugs that need to be worked out. My biggest issue was the air filter that I was trying to re-use was dimensionally too large. It was not allowing me to rotate up high enough into the pocket in the fender. Once the car was at ride height, I only had about 3/4" clearance. It was enough for me to get a test drive in, but not a long term solution.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55177574580_bd6de182a8_b-1.jpg

Since I had modified the air filter housing for a fitting to allow fresh filtered air for the PCV, I had to add a fitting to the new tube. Gave me another opportunity to do some AC TIG welding. I cut a little square piece of thick aluminum and bent a slight curve into it to match the curve of the 4" intake tube. Cleaned everything with a wire brush (only used for Aluminum) and acetone. Then I got to work welding it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55177574415_2ba3438fdd_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55177172516_68cb0efe5e_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55176281707_7b5fa17284_b-1.jpg

With that modified, I could now reinstall the intake tube and rotate the air filter up where I wanted it. It fits really well and now I have 3-4" of clearance with a jack under the a-arm and the wheel at full lock. No issues with it contacting now.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55176281707_7b5fa17284_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55177426094_9d14db1ae6_b-1.jpg

Now I can drive the car without needing to worry about the filter coming off. Next is trying to figure out why the 8.3 psi spring was only building 5.5 psi of boost. I figured that backpressure may be an issue, so I decided to try the 16.8psi combination of springs to hopefully net me around 11psi if the math was the same. 11psi is my target as I'd like to net around 500 rwhp.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55177172686_00fec8e651_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/03/55177172676_b9849db086_b-1.jpg

I swapped out the springs and took the car for another test drive. The car was definitely making more power, but after checking the logs it maxed out around 156 kpa which is about 8psi boost. Closer, but I think there may be another issue that is causing the low boost. I was leaning towards backpressure being an issue, but after talking with some buddies, it may be something else. I'm going to make some changes and do more testing. I have the first car show of the year this weekend so I'll get the car out again to see if I can get the boost numbers closer to the wastegate numbers. I also ordered some fittings so that I can finish wiring up a dial and control the boost with Holley.

Cheers,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

It's been a little bit since I've updated, but soon after I got the car back together we took a family trip to the Smoky Mountains. Great trip and spending time with the family. After I got back I took the car to the first car show of the year at a local restoration shop. As usual, I forgot to take photos but I did grab one in the parking lot at the gas station right before we got home. My youngest son came with me and we had a great time. He got a cool shirt from the show too.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/04/55235958262_a324ccd23b_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/04/55209566328_e0b99dbb7a_b-1.jpg

Then the next day I thought it would be great to take the car out to get some icecream, but the car was running very rough. Then shortly after I smelled fuel and when I lifted the hood there was fuel misting out of the turbo vband area. I shut it off immediately and then pushed it back in the garage. After spending the next week troubleshooting, chasing wires, using the Holley Diagnostic tool, and etc the only thing that I could determine is that there was a faulty spark plug wire on cylinder #6. I spent a lot of time but didn't find anything really conclusive. I swapped the wire out for another one I had and it runs fine. I'm definitely going to keep an eye on it though until it earns my trust again. Very strange. I ended up ordering a set of new MSD wires just to be on the safe side.

In the process of troubleshooting I pulled all the plugs and determined that I need to lean it out a bit and could add some more timing.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/04/55209416321_17e4a2313f_b-1.jpg

I also discovered in the process that that the downpipe had shifted slightly after a few heat cycles and I need to cut and replace the vband off the turbo. I didn't realize that there were so many different size vbands, but the one that I used was too small for the turbo which is I think why it shifted in the first place. I'll expand on that later, but that brings me up to last weekend where I attended one of my favorite events of the year; Spring Carlisle. Pictures to come soon.

Cheers,
Ryan

[JuStBlAzIN]

Any chance you have pictures of your rear ebrake connection/lines/bracket?

[ryeguy2006a]

Here's the best picture that I have.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/05/54549014564_75728d5935_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/04/54533657835_07d10680c7_b-1.jpg

[ryeguy2006a]

The day after I got back from Carlisle, there was a small car show right in my town, so I packed up the kids and we stopped by for an hour or so. Really cool show and great to see a lot of really nice cars. Some guy brought some high end full custom 30s street rods. All had beautiful custom interiors that were classy and not tacky. Some of them can be very interesting when they go full custom.

Cool shot of the new accessory bumper! The guy said it was NOS, but had been sitting for so long it had some chrome chipped. Not sure I believe that, but I knocked his price down significantly so I was happy.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/05/55232749352_45f7c65756_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/05/55234064850_7bed725e63_b-1.jpg

One last thing that I forgot to mention was that when I met with Carl at the Spring Show that he gave me a decal for his car club in Sweden! So nice and I can't wait to stick it in the car.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/05/55248003686_b7aa8965ae_b-1.jpg

Next up was a bit of a bummer for me as I didn't want to do the work, but it was necessary. The vband flange that I used originally when I put the car together started leaking. I believe after a few heat cycles it may have shifted. After doing some more research online, I realized that I used the wrong size. The OD of the vband flanges need to match or be very close to get the best seal. When I pulled off the charge pipe and remeasured the flanges that I have are the more standard 3.580" OD, where the turbo I have measured at 3.725". Also the flange I used was meant to be a male/female connection so it had a small sealing surface area.

Old flange:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/05/55248243299_2812642536_b-1.jpg

After searching all over the internet for the "right flange", the best I could find was a SS version on eBay with a 3.75" OD flange which is much closer and I can turn it down with my lathe.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/05/55248514345_45249a2f82_b-1.jpg

Once I received the new flange, I chucked it up and turned off the 0.025" so that they flanges match. Used my dial indicator to be sure the flange is flush with little runout.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/05/55248410335_5b89d16637_b-1.jpg

I checked the flange several times and test fit with the turbo flange a few times. Once I was happy it was time to cut off the old flange and weld on the new one. I didn't take many pictures because I just wanted to get this done. I attempted to weld the flange on the car, but soon realized it was too much of a challenge with the TIG torch and foot pedal. I ended up just pulling off the manifold and turbo in one piece and put it on my welding table.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/05/55248152028_269e483320_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/05/55248243204_8f15c9ecea_b-1.jpg

I was able to get about 3/4 of the way around the flange unobstructed, but the last 1/4 was a real pain. I ended up welding in many different positions, welded left handed (I'm normally right handed), tons of tungsten stick out then finally made it all the way around. My older welds were a little prettier, but these are solid and the job is done. I also had to re-wrap some of my heat wrap, which was annoying, but I didn't get a picture after it was finished. The one here is right after I finished welding.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/05/55247104392_2c43a047d9_b-1.jpg

I got it all installed and tightened back down and no leaks! I took the car out for a quick rip around the block. Still makes 8psi and once the new exhaust wrap burned off it was back to normal. While it was off I also installed a new set of MSD spark plug wires. Glad that it's back together and running great again. I grabbed this shot in the driveway. One of my new favorites.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/05/55247104332_363123624e_b-1.jpg

This past weekend I found myself with a free morning and realized it was a Cars and Coffee morning, so I bribed the boys with some Dunkin breakfast sandwiches and we headed out. It's about 40 miles round trip and the car ran great. I had to take some time to reflect as I was driving it just how much work I've done over the last few years. The front suspension feels great with the sway bar and dialed alignment. Engine/trans/rear end all work so nicely together and just cruise 65-70 on the highway so smoothly. After I got home there were a few photos posted on the FB group so I grabbed them. One of my older son is really cool with his mullet between the two patina cars at the show.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/05/55248151838_dcb23894c7_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/05/55247281367_da004efb63_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/05/55248418529_59d270050c_b-1.jpg

Love this photo.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/05/55248179151_8a8a3ea82c_b-1.jpg

I had a great time and talked with a lot of cool people. One of the best things that happened was when we were walking around looking at the other cars and I noticed a really nice Lamborghini. I said it to both of my boys and my older son freaked out a little and then my younger son (6 yo) says "Oh wow, did you see there's an old Jeep too!" :-P

Thanks,
Ryan

[ryeguy2006a]

I haven't had much to update as I've only been driving the car and attending some car shows/cruise in's. Last weekend I decided to take my car on a longer cruise. I have a buddy in Richmond, VA that we'd been discussing meeting up at the cars and coffee near him and this was the weekend. I got the interior cleaned up a little bit and my youngest son decided to make the trip with me. It was about an hour and a half drive there and about 150 miles round trip. Like a dummy, I got so busy looking at the other cars that I forgot to grab a picture of mine next to my buddies 1968 Biscayne. Only picture I got was this really nice 1999 Skyline.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/06/55320992452_94172445be_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/06/55321906571_6d0d9431b0_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/06/55322122309_da7fe18426_b-1.jpg

Last weekend was the longest drive since adding the turbo and I had no issues overall, but something I do need to look into. Car ran great at 75-80 mph on the highway, but I looked down and noticed that the engine temps had started to creep up around 198-200. I read a while ago that without a hood baffle, that it can cause overheating issues since the air can bypass the radiator and go up and over the radiator support. I had to remove the baffle to center mount the radiator, so I'm hoping that is the culprit. I did buy a new replacement baffle from the Carlisle show I was at, but before I cut up the new one, I thought I'd cut up the old one since it was pretty rusty. The cuts were pretty crude, but the profile is spot on. If this works like I'm hoping, I'll use this as a template for the new piece I have and attempt to make it look factory with the bead rolling and rolled lip.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/06/55321906121_5cec164d65_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/06/55322068463_01b5f9849b_b-1.jpg

Met a friend of a friend at the cruise in who had a really nice turbo'd 87 C10 who gave me a tip about how my wastegate and BOV were plumbed up and how I could make it better. I had both Tee'd together with a manifold vacuum source which worked ok, but he said that the wastegate should see a pre-throttlebody boost reference so that the wastegate doesn't see any vacuum. The BOV is what needs to see the vacuum source so it can open. I had seen where that was an option for many and my turbo had an untapped boss. So I drilled it out and tapped for 1/8" NPT.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/06/55321906326_bf0fdafe9d_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/06/55320992122_386f82dff9_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/06/55321906156_b7ec0dd116_b-1.jpg

It only took me about an hour to pull the turbo housing off, drill/tap the port, then reinstall with new nylon hoses. I figured, it was worth a shot since I'm still very new to turbocharging. When I found a safe spot, I gave it WOT and when I glanced down the boost gauge said 9.5 lbs which is about 2 lbs. higher than before. Not only did it go higher, it seemed to build boost sooner and at a lower rpm. With a light load it was seeing positive boost pressure around 2300 rpms. The BOV was also more responsive and not as "lazy". It seemed to snap on rather than a longer whoosh. Overall, I'd say that was a nice win and a pretty quick/cheap way to gain ~40 hp! With that trip I'm about 500 miles on the car so far, and need at least 700 more to hit my goal of rolling the odometer over to 50k miles.

I've had a few bites on the car and one serious offer, but was lower than I'd sell the car for. If he decides to buy the car I'll probably sell it to him, but if he turns it down I'll probably pull it off the market. It's really fun to drive and I don't "need" to build a garage right now. I just know it will take me many years to save up for one and I'm not extremely patient.

Cheers,
Ryan

[dhutton]

I’m amazed by what you accomplish while having a full time job and a family. :)

[ryeguy2006a]

Thanks Don. I've been trying to involve my kids in the little projects I'm doing. Maybe it'll rub off someday.

I finally got around to installing the dial a boost function on my car. I had all the parts, but needed to wire it up and re-route some of the boost lines to the car. First step was to figure out where I wanted to physically mount the MAC valve that made sense so that it is away from the engine heat, but also so that the lines could cleanly route to the wastegate. After a few different iterations in my head, I finally decided to build a bracket off of the coil pack mount. I made the first piece out of cardboard, then upsized the dimensions and transferred it to some scrap aluminum plate that I had. I left a lot of extra material on the piece once I got the holes drilled to fine tune the placement and appearance of the piece.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/06/55349520577_3594f18242_b-1.jpg

I had originally thought the valve would be rotated a different way, but decided that this looks better and will make routing a bit easier as well.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/06/55350613713_82da85d4ee_b-1.jpg

Here's the bracket after I trimmed it down and reshaped the corners.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/06/55350672604_128f262d06_b-1.jpg

Little paint and hardware. I added a 150 GT metri-pack connector for serviceability.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/06/55350451701_5f72c73629_b-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/06/55349520332_8821b2dbd8_b-1.jpg

Here's the final installed pictures.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/06/55349520397_0f440e020e_b-1.jpg

After I finished up the plumbing side of the house, I updated the tune for the new AEM dial input and the MAC valve output. I was running short on time so I found piece of scrap angle aluminum that would work to hold the dial temporarily to test the functionality. I do like the way the bracket turned out and may shape it a bit more and use it to add the line lock button.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/06/55350672119_c36fafb635_b-1.jpg

After some bench testing it and everything checked out, I decided to take it down the road to see what happens. The dial worked just like it should. At the first position it was exactly like it was before. Made right around 9psi without anything added to the dome. I turned the dial to 1/4 and it made just shy of 10psi, then I slowly worked my way up to 2/3 turn and it was making around 11.5psi. When I turned it all the way up it didn't make any difference in the boost level, so I backed it back to 2/3 turn.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2026/06/55350613088_8f8675cf90_b-1.jpg

You can definitely feel the difference when the boost kicks in, but to be honest it was less than what I was expecting it to make. I was thinking with the dial all the way up it would be somewhere in the 16-18 range. I'm thinking that the car has a lot of back pressure from the 3" exhaust and Walker Quietflow muffler. A buddy suggested to run it without a muffler to "test" and I think that will be my next step. I've actually been meaning to add a v-band to my muffler and this may be a good opportunity to do that and test for backpressure.

Cheers,
Ryan

[thedugan]

Great work on the Nomad. The dial a boost bracket scares me that you will cut your leg on it. Looks to be right where your leg and knee would hit the dash.

[grendel]

I just read this, start to here.

Good work man.