Introducing BISKWIK! 1961 Biscayne

[Cramer4918]

Hello Everyone. I’m finally getting around to starting my build thread. I am enjoying the pleasure of making this 1961 Biscayne road worthy once again. A little back story… I have been around and wrenched on this car for almost 30 years now. I became friends with the owner when I was 17. I met him when I had questions about my 1963 Corvair w/400 SBC in the front. Anyhow, he had sold and bought back this car numerous times. Each time it went to different hot rodders who were friends of his. Each person made changes, upgrades, downgrades, whatever to it. I believe he owned it a total of five times since I have known him. It had combinations ranging from a 350 SBC w/671 blower, to 502 BB w/Procharger and 150 shot of nitrous. It was mostly a street/strip car that he took to car shows. The last owner who had it before he bought it back put a 454 w/671 blower in it. He became ill and was not able to complete the car. My buddy bought it back with intentions of retiring it from the racing scene and make a cruiser out of it. A year and half into it, he lost interest and that’s where I come in!

The car has a full cage in it now but will be modified to accommodate easier entry to the back seat for my kids. The setup it had when I acquired it was a bone stock 6.0 LQ4 with 4L60E. He purchased a Vintage Air AC kit, power steering setup, and a few other goodies for it. The power steering setup was installed and the AC kit is still in the box. Me being who I am, I could not have this beautiful machine running around with a stock motor in it.. especially after the history it has in my area.

Project updates will be added in upcoming posts. In the meantime, here are some pics…

The first pic is from 1997 when it had the 502 in it. It was a respectable land yacht that ran mid-6's in the 1/8th. I took this pic when he let me drive it for the weekend. The others are of when he got it back with the 454 in it and of the interior.
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[Cramer4918]

Picking up BISKWIK to bring it to its new home.
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It's resting place for a bit as I acquired parts...
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[thumper877]

Cool project and story. Looks like the body is in great shape. Looking forward to updates

[Cramer4918]

Cool project and story. Looks like the body is in great shape. Looking forward to updates

Thank you! It is in good shape for sure. The previous owners did take good care of it.

It has definitely been slow going. I have had it for about a year now and do not get to work on it much. Between that and trying to do everything in my very used garage, it is a challenge at times. I will do my best to update the thread to its current state. Stay tuned!

[Cramer4918]

One of the biggest hurdles I will have to overcome is how to run the exhaust. The frame is braced as you can see in the pic. I think I may obtain some square tubing two weld in place between the bracing and frame to make a channel. I do like the idea of having the X-frame braced, I just don't know if I can make it work. I do not want to run the exhaust under the bracing as that will kill any ground clearance. Thoughts anyone?
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[Cramer4918]

Goodies from CPP and Summit start to arrive…

CPP - Big brake upgrade and brake booster
SUMMIT - Stage 2 Pro LS Truck Cam Kit, Stainless fuel line, a few odds and ends, and a Holley Terminator X Max 4 months later.
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[andrewb70]

Really cool history and neat project.

Since you have the Terminator X Max, I suggest using an intake with a 4 bolt flange and going with a stock 90mm LS3 DBW throttle body. Also, if you don't already have a radiator or cooling fan, I suggest using one of the modern brushless fans. The Terminator X can generate an appropriate signal for it and run it variable speed.

Also, Vintage Air offers kits to install a pressure sensor in the AC system. My suggestion is to wire that as an input to the Terminator X. Then we can use AC pressure to control the sped of the fan, regardless of engine temperature.

All of these things will make it work like a modern car. If I can help with any of this and the tuning, please keep me in mind.

Andrew

[Cramer4918]

Really cool history and neat project.

Since you have the Terminator X Max, I suggest using an intake with a 4 bolt flange and going with a stock 90mm LS3 DBW throttle body. Also, if you don't already have a radiator or cooling fan, I suggest using one of the modern brushless fans. The Terminator X can generate an appropriate signal for it and run it variable speed.

Also, Vintage Air offers kits to install a pressure sensor in the AC system. My suggestion is to wire that as an input to the Terminator X. Then we can use AC pressure to control the sped of the fan, regardless of engine temperature.

All of these things will make it work like a modern car. If I can help with any of this and the tuning, please keep me in mind.

Andrew

Thank you for those tips, Andrew! I am using a DBC TB currently. What would the advantage be for going to DBW?

[Cramer4918]

Hello Everyone! I'm working on catching this thread up to present day....

First order of business, I wanted to rebuild the front end. It received new ball joints, bushings, tie rod ends, drag link, springs, and the brake upgrade. It already had a CPP Power Steering unit installed with a new Pitman arm, so that was good. I will install the front sway bar later once I figure out and fabricate the sway bar bolt mounts for the control arms.


I don’t know what springs were in it when I got it, but it looked like it was shooting for some good 60’s! Definitely had to fix that ASAP!

I'll update pics when I take more with all the new suspension/steering components in place.
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[Cramer4918]

Wheels were ordered and received. BISKWIK will be sporting a set of Boyd Coddington Junkyard Dog to the tune of 20" REAR and 18" FRONT.

I will more than likely be dropping the front a little bit more. We shall see once I get a tire mounted.

I will be running 285/35/20 on the rear and 24/45/18 on the front.

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[Cramer4918]

Out with old.... In with the new!

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I also added a LS2 style dampener with Melling adapter bracket and new timing chain set.

[Cramer4918]

While I had the oil pump off, I massaged the passages a little bit to improve flow and shimmed the spring. I figured since I improved flow and bumped up the pressure a little, I thought it would be a good idea to replace the barbell. I picked one up from SacCityCorvette.com.


I definitely love all the room in the engine compartment of these classics! I was able to reach all but the bottom two transmission bolts from the top! It’s great!

[Cramer4918]

And…. Slowly getting the motor back together. I picked up a set of 243 heads and massaged them a little bit. They probably didn’t need it since I’m not racing anymore, but I enjoy doing the work and I’m sure it won’t hurt it. I upgraded the rocker arm trunnions and installed them along with new springs. I also had to order a set of 7.425 pushrods to get the right lifter preload. I topped it all off with an LS6 intake.

[Cramer4918]

Going to start mocking up the Vintage Air and finding a good home for the Holley Terminator X Max along with addressing the wiring nightmare under the dash.


First order of business will be getting the ginormous bench seat out. I will them pull out the carpet so I can put some sound deadening material in, and Yes, I will be cutting the drop bars on the cage. As you can see, they are a hinderance for getting in and out. I am not getting any younger and I would also like to make it easier for my kids to get into the back.

[Cramer4918]

So much room for activities!!!

That was a chore for one person. WOW!

[Cramer4918]

I managed to finish removing the down braces for the roll cage. I will leave the rest of it and either repaint or get some sort of cover to “hide” the areas where I had to cut. These are rough cuts currently. I will remove whatever interior I can and tape up the rest so I can grind the rest down. At least now, it will be easier to get in and out of the front and my kids can actually sit in the back.

Blue tape applied to the cut areas so I don't filet myself open falling into and out of the car while I work on it.

So much MORE room for activities!!!

[Cramer4918]

Not a huge update, but just wanted to throw this out there.... BISKWIK has some new shoes and a much improved stance!!!
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[68400BIRD]

Love the new stance. It's amazing what new shoes can do for a car. And, the tires and rims you took off will look great on another car.
Are you going to replace the door cards so you have arm rests again?? Keep the updates coming.

[Cramer4918]

Love the new stance. It's amazing what new shoes can do for a car. And, the tires and rims you took off will look great on another car.
Are you going to replace the door cards so you have arm rests again?? Keep the updates coming.

Thank you! Yes, wheels can make or break a ride, in my opinion. I will find a new home for the wheels I took off. They have 0 miles on them and even come with a matching spare.

I will come up with something to add armrests for the doors. I would really like to change the interior completely. That is a lot of white! It just isn't in the cards for me at the moment though.

[Cramer4918]

WOW! I have definitely been slacking on updating my thread here. I apologize about that everyone.

Well.. Here goes!

The floor pans are in good shape. I’ll deal with the wiring nightmare as I work on the Vintage Air.

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[Cramer4918]

I started working on mocking up the Vintage Air system. I can say that I definitely do not like the chincey plastic firewall cover that is supplied with the kit. I would like to replace that with metal and used bulkhead fittings. We shall see what I can come up with. Anyone have any ideas in the meantime?

As you all can see, the many years in Kindergarten almost paid off. I stayed on the lines pretty much.

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The template goes somewhere in this area. This looked like a good spot.
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The template was pretty much useless if you ask me. I ended up just holding the duct in place and using a center punch to mark the holes. Worked perfect!
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The airbox is mounted temporarily. I will layout everything for the Terminator X Max next and also determine how I want to run the AC and heater lines. And Yes, the wiring under the dash will be addressed too. I'm leaving it in place now for your viewing pleasure.
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[Cramer4918]

I finally received my Lokar shifter from Jeg's. It was not the original one I wanted, but it kept being pushed further and further away on backorder. I ended up contacting Jeg's and working out a deal for Lokar's "Smart Shifter." A bit more expensive than the one I ordered, but Jeg's worked with me on the price and got it to within $45 of what I paid originally.

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[Cramer4918]

I managed to modify a 4-speed hump to mount my shifter on as I did not want it centered on the transmission tunnel. Still in the mockup phase in the pic.
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[Cramer4918]

I managed to get the LOKAR shifter mounted and access hole drilled for the shift cable. Unfortunately since the cable runs out the back of the shifter in this model, I have to raise the bench seat about an inch to clear the bracket and cable. Not a big deal, but still something else that is getting added to the ever expanding To-do list. I’ll get pics of that fiasco soon.

I started working on getting the Dakota Digital gauges installed that I purchased from FB Marketplace. The dash had been worked over before to fit the smaller AutoMeter gauges, so I had to take my trusty half round file to the openings to enlarge them for the round Dakota gauges. That was super fun. It took a little bit, but I got it done.

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[Cramer4918]

I started to try and make heads or tails of the wiring debacle while planning on placement of the Dakota Dash module and the Holley Terminator X Max ECU. While doing some research on Google University to figure how to wire up the Dakota gauges, I learned I need to get a bridge module from Dakota for the gauges to get signal from the Holley ECU. 🤦🏻
That was ordered promptly.

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[Cramer4918]

While I was under the dash looking at the wiring with all the daylight coming in from the gaping hole in the firewall, I decided to tackle that project. My kindergarten skills paid off once again as I was able to use a Sharpie, measuring tape, and some scissors to make a high tech template out of a cardboard insert which was in a box for something my wife bought…. Not car parts of course.

I made up my template and transferred it to some sheet metal I sourced from eBay. I used a paint can to draw radius the corners. I was able to get it cut out pretty straight with my angle grinder. I don’t have a good work area or a lot of proper equipment yet, so a piece of 4X4 post and a size 11 held the metal in place while I cut it. It did the job. https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/07/thumbsup-1.gif

I cut the heads of some 5/16 bolts and tacked them onto the plate. That way I can install it and provide mounting points for the Vintage Air setup. It will definitely look better than the chincy plastic piece that was provided with the kit.

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[Cramer4918]

I thought I did pretty good with the AC panel, so I thought I'd try my skills at making a mount for all the electronics involved. I had to break out the Sharpie, safety scissors and butchered another box that was left over from something my wife ordered again. This one was from Target, I believe....

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[Cramer4918]

Hello Everyone. I have a “need your opinion” post. I’m trying to figure out how I am going to run the exhaust. The car has been underbraced when it had the cage installed. I do like the fact that the X-frame is beefed up a little. The issue is that the tubing interferes with where the exhaust should run. I do not want to run it under the bracing as that would kill the ground clearance. I had thought of getting some 3.5” square tubing and welding it between the bracing and the frame to make a channel for the exhaust.

Don’t mind the battery cable in the pics. I haven’t started the electrical fiasco yet.

Is there anyone that has any experience in this area or could just give me some insight? I do appreciate any and all info and advice.

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[Rubes]

On your A/C closeout panel...dont the heater tubes and plastic case on the Vintage Air unit stick out past the fire wall (they do on mine, about 1/2")? Thats what the square recess on that ugly plastic panel is for. I am just gonna use the original heater box cover cause I don't really care for the flat panels either. It does however mean I'll need to do more work on custom lines as the VA provided ones will not work.

wow...that last picture of the bottom of the frame...how the heck did that get bent that bad?? Thats the center bearing mount, right? Being a former race car I assume a busted driveshaft? Are you using a one piece driveshaft now? Maybe just an optical illusion? but my two frames are perfectly flat on the bottom.

[Cramer4918]

On your A/C closeout panel...dont the heater tubes and plastic case on the Vintage Air unit stick out past the fire wall (they do on mine, about 1/2")? Thats what the square recess on that ugly plastic panel is for. I am just gonna use the original heater box cover cause I don't really care for the flat panels either. It does however mean I'll need to do more work on custom lines as the VA provided ones will not work.

wow...that last picture of the bottom of the frame...how the heck did that get bent that bad?? Thats the center bearing mount, right? Being a former race car I assume a busted driveshaft? Are you using a one piece driveshaft now? Maybe just an optical illusion? but my two frames are perfectly flat on the bottom.

The unit used to stick out of the firewall. I modified the brackets on the unit to move it inward enough to clear the firewall. Mine only had the VA piece in place when I purchased the car. I ended up purchasing some reduced barrier A/C lines and fittings so that I can manipulate them easier under the dash.

It may just be the angle that I took the pic. The carrier bearing mount is not twisted like it appears in the pic. It does have a one piece driveshaft now though.

[Cramer4918]

This is where I plan on mounting the modules for the Dakota Digital dash and the Holley Terminator X Max. I will clear the dash once it is back in place and still have room for the glovebox.

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I also ordered new sensors to replace the old ones.

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Really rough mock-up of the wiring... It will be dressed and secured nicely once completed.

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[Cramer4918]

I managed to pick up an Impala/Biscayne LS Swap specific radiator/fan setup. It is a three row with a steam vent inlet and dual Spal fans. I'll pair these up with an MSD Sold State Relay. I was thinking of running them as PWM, but these are not brushless fans. Has anyone had success running brushed fans on a PWM? Please let me know!

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[Cramer4918]

I did manage to get the fans mounted and the setup temporarily in place. I wanted to make sure there was plenty of clearance with the steering box and the accessory drive. All looks good so far! I just have to massage a couple holes on the fan shroud to get them to line up properly. I used the same style radiator that was with the car when I purchased it. It was only a two row core and I did not feel it was adequate enough. I will also be adding some rubber spacers between the radiator and core support to dampen it a little.

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I was also able to make some progress on making panels to fill in the holes between the back seat and the trunk. I did not seal it off completely, but it is a vast improvement over what it was. The wheel wells have a healthy layer of undercoating in them, so I did not add any material to the interior.
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Once I completed that task, I employed the help of my Mini-Me and installed the seatbelts in the back. Once we got those bolted in, the backseat was put back in place. It’s a little dirty and will be cleaned, but it’s starting to look like a car inside again!!!!!
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They're excited for me to get BISKWIK running so I can take them to school.
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[Cramer4918]

Here are a couple pics of the firewall plate I made to replace the VA piece.
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[BobinFL]

I have two spal non-brushless fans running on a pwm controller. It works great. Just make sure to have adequate wire gauge to minimize voltage drop to the fans and use high capacity connectors.

[Cramer4918]

I have two spal non-brushless fans running on a pwm controller. It works great. Just make sure to have adequate wire gauge to minimize voltage drop to the fans and use high capacity connectors.

That is good to know! Thank you!

Would you mind sending me pics an/or info on your setup, please?

I have 6ga cable that is going to be ran to the MSD Relay and possibly 10ga to the PWM and fans. Good enough?

[BobinFL]

Unfortunately my system is buried to try to maintain as much of a stealth look as possible so no pictures. I have dual 60 amp breakers off the battery hidden behind the battery. A 4 ga wire is hidden in the radiator support and goes to the driver site where the pwm controller is hidden behind the windshield washer bottle. Twin 6 ga leads go to the spal fans which i believe are rated for 45 amps each at full load. The pwm controller has a sensor that gets installed in the radiator core right around the bottom outlet. Another wire runs from the AC clutch to the controller to kick the fans on when the AC clutch engages. With the AC on the controller brings on the fans at 50% and then ramps from there based on rad temps. Without the AC it ramps from zero speed based on water temp. Each 12" fan is rated for, (i think) around 2,300 cfm, and are installed in s shroud with rubber flap bypass cutouts. Fans are in a puller configuration. The AC condenser is installed right in front of the radiator, and i used foam gasket material to seal the condenser to the radiator, so the condenser works really well now. Used to have a 12" pusher fan right in front of the condenser, but this setup works much better.

[Cramer4918]

Thank you for your reply and description! I do appreciate it. What PWM controller are you using? I had found this one, but I didn’t know how it is.

https://gccooling.com/product/cwi-pwm-controller/

[Cramer4918]

wow...that last picture of the bottom of the frame...how the heck did that get bent that bad?? Thats the center bearing mount, right? Being a former race car I assume a busted driveshaft? Are you using a one piece driveshaft now? Maybe just an optical illusion? but my two frames are perfectly flat on the bottom.

Hey Rubes. You are correct. It is tweaked quite a bit. I looked at it today and it is nowhere near flat. I’m sure it popped a few carrier bearing back in the day. I know I replaced at least two that went out when my buddy had it back in the 90’s early 2000’s.

I’ll look into reinforcing the “X” somehow in the near future. I would like to get it running now.

[Rubes]

Im sure you are not going to be putting it thru the same kind of abuse as it got in its racecar days...so I dont think there is any need for reinforcements. As you said, at least until your done with everything else.
I have a spare convertible frame and it has all kinds of reinforcement plates all over that tunnel section and top and bottom of the rails (all factory).

Thats a nice radiator/shroud. I should have went with that. I went with the stock 2001 camaro rad since that is where my motor was from. It also has a nifty shroud/dual fans that clip directly on the rad. I had to modify the core support to make it work, which meant cutting off the original mounting bosses off the core support. and then one of the fans hit the steering box, so I had to make a new shroud. So much for my "use as much OEM stuff as possible" game plan.

here is a shot of the bottom of my '61 frame...perfectly flat all the way back (well except for the recess for the carrier bearing bolts).
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[Cramer4918]

Wow! I honestly had no idea the tunnel was flat on the bottom. Mine has definitely taken some abuse. Hopefully it will be good enough to be a cruiser. Thanks for the info!

[Cramer4918]

Hello Everyone! Well, the cowl hood is no more. I ended up trading it for a steel hood. I really like the lines of the ‘61 hood, more than I like a cowl hood apparently. It is not perfect, but it is factory steel and I’m good with that. Pics are from the person I traded with.
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Now that I have the hood, I need to do a little work to it. It does have a bad spot on the underbracing that I would like to repair.
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I am also working on modifying a brake booster bracket to work for power brakes. I did not take pics of the interference, but let’s just say it was sitting in #7 coil.
I managed to butcher the bracket and modify the mount orientation to gain clearance.

This is the original bracket
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This is what I was able to do. Forgive my skills, I am teaching myself how to weld with this build and I don’t have a bunch of fancy tools. Just getting things done!
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It is just tacked in place now until I can check fitment.

[Cramer4918]

The bracket modification gained about 1 1/2” more clearance outward.
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I did not feel like dealing with dripping brake fluid, so I just bent the old master cylinder out of the way. I am making new brake lines anyway.

My next hurdle will be overcoming the interference of the booster pushrod and mount at the firewall.
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[Cramer4918]

I'm playing catch up with my posts.

I did not work on it much while the kids were out of school, so it sat lonely in the garage for a couple months. I've been able to work on it here and there and I'm trying to get you all caught up now.

I put some heat shield on the starter wires that run by the manifold.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-12.jpg

As you can see, I have the passenger manifold installed finally along with the oil dipstick, installed the plugs and checked the fit of the plug wires. These will do for now, but I my go with a ceramic boot in the future.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-13.jpg

I did not like how I had the Terminator Max harness ran into the engine compartment, so I purchased the billet bulkhead from Sharpe Performance. It s a really nice piece and install was fairly simple.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-14.jpg

I picked up a couple more coils that I was lacking and installed them. There is plenty of clearance on the driver’s side for the plug wire boots. I also ran my charge cable from the alternator. I just need to wire it up next.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-15.jpg

I also managed to get a little more of the sound deadener installed. I will be tidying up the wiring shortly and installing the gauge cluster.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-16.jpg

The Vintage Air unit will be installed but not wired up. The harness for the controls is for an AC equipped car. Mine did not have AC originally, so I will need to purchase the correct harness and controls. That will be put on the back burner as I need to allocate funds to getting BISKWIK running. Hopefully I’ll be able to fire it up soon!

[Cramer4918]

Remember all the room I had for the booster pushrod?
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-17.jpg

I managed to make spacer plates and modify a couple things.

Local hardware store only had 1/8” flat bar and since I have zero patience to order and wait for thicker stock, I purchased it.

I started with this....
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-18.jpg

It quickly turned into these...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-19.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-20.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-21.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-22.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-23.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-24.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-25.jpg

So much better!!!! I will be making spacers to go in place of the washers at the brake booster. At the moment, spacing is perfect! I have full range on the pedal and I made it myself! https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/emoji1688-1.png

[Cramer4918]

I also managed to get the battery charged up enough to get the motor primed and checked to make sure all my connections were good.

Pretty lights!!!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-26.jpg

Since I only had a short time to work in the garage, I completed my fuel system and made up a PTFE line to go from my stainless to the fuel rail.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-27.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-28.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-29.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-30.jpg


- - - Updated - - -

It’s not pretty, but it’s complete!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/attachmentphpattachmentid80618stc1d16958-1.jpg

[Cramer4918]

Well… I made a little more progress.

I probably did not need to weld the spacer plates together, but I figured I could definitely use some more practice with welding. I know it’s not pretty, but I am still learning. I am using a flux core welder, so there is a copious amount of slag and spatter.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-31.jpg

Don't be too jealous of my high tech, high dollar welding table. When I am not needing it for welding, it doubles as a short step stool.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-32.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-33.jpg

A little finessing with a grinding wheel and flapper disc and it doesn’t look too shabby….from ten feet at least.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-34.jpg

- - - Updated - - -

Spacers and Bracket installed after painting.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-35.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-36.jpg

Remember…. The bracket and linkage started off life as this…
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-37.jpg

I have to purchase a couple of fasteners and some SS brake line to complete the install. I will more than likely need a tubing bender as well.

[Cramer4918]

I was also able to get a replacement section of the underbracing for the hood from a member of one of the groups I’m in on FB.

Anyhow, this is what I am going to be repairing..
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-38.jpg

And, this is the piece I will be grafting from.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-39.jpg

I also went ahead and made a new ground for the battery. The previous ground was bolted to the frame in the rear. I cleaned up an area on the frame and welded a bolt directly to it. Once it was cleaned up and cooled, I taped the threads off and sprayed undercoating on the bare metal. I installed the new cable from BatterycablesUSA and I won’t have to worry about a dirty ground anymore.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-40.jpg

Old ground…
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-41.jpg

[Cramer4918]

Here’s a funny for you all….

I picked up a Neutral safety switch for the 4L60E and I decided to try to figure out the outputs for Reverse Lights. I spent about 45 minutes under the car with the switch installed, looking at a schematic and using a volt meter to determine what wires I need to use. I got that completed and wanted to see what color wires the reverse lights used. This is the “funny” part….. my car does not have any!!! https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/lol_hitting-1.gif

Nope. I did not know that. Something else to add to the list now.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-2.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-3.jpg

That will be an adventure for another day.

[Cramer4918]

I purchased an A/C hose crimper to try and get my system buttoned up. It will still be a little while until I get it completed due the control kit that came with the system is for a vehicle that had factory A/C controls. I will have to order the controls and wiring harness to complete the Vintage Air install.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-4.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-5.jpg

Don’t mind the Firetruck and Ambulance in the background. I don’t have a vice much less a work table in my garage. Some things I have to do while on duty during my down time hours.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-6.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-7.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-8.jpg

Getting the hoses installed.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-9.jpg

Remember, I will be going back through everything to refine the finished product.

Plenty of clearance for the hinge when the hood is closed.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-10.jpg

This is how I’m thinking the lines will be ran on the fenderwell.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-11.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-12.jpg

[Cramer4918]

Well…. I was left alone and unsupervised again! https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/emoji51-1.png

I went ahead and started removing the underbracing so the exhaust could be run. I have a plan to plumb the exhaust and then add in the underbracing with channels for the exhaust. We shall see how it turns out. I may have to completely scrap the bracing, but I’m hoping not.

Left alone and with power tools. Here goes nothing!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-13.jpg

A little unfortunate collateral damage.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-14.jpg

So much room for activities!!! Seriously though, it will be nice to have the exhaust tucked where it should be or at least close to it.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-15.jpg

Rough cleanup
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-16.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-17.jpg

Cleaned up enough to run the exhaust and go from there.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-18.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-19.jpg

Just remember, I’m doing all this with the car on jack stands and me laying on the floor. 100% garage (floor) build!!

[rod cole]

You might re visit that brake jack shaft it will bend if you loose assist or stomp on it hard. It can be fixed with solid steel not two plates and a clevis from inside. originally with it all on the same plane the plates are plenty strong but when u offset it you introduced a twisting load that will most likely bend the offset portion.

[Cramer4918]

You might re visit that brake jack shaft it will bend if you loose assist or stomp on it hard. It can be fixed with solid steel not two plates and a clevis from inside. originally with it all on the same plane the plates are plenty strong but when u offset it you introduced a twisting load that will most likely bend the offset portion.

Thank you for that! I did not even think about that occurring. I will address it after I complete the exhaust.

I appreciate the input. :cheers:

[Autobahn-Outlaw]

Why don't you weld an opening in the bracing for the exhaust ?

Like a transcrossmember.

https://www.ss396.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/FCM-RCG-350.jpg

[Cramer4918]

Why don't you weld an opening in the bracing for the exhaust ?

Like a transcrossmember.

https://www.ss396.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/FCM-RCG-350.jpg

I have thought about that and have purchased some steel tubing to do so. I was going to try that after I get the exhaust ran, however I may go a different route. I saw this the other day and am contemplating going that route. It looks like it would add in enough structural rigidity to alleviate a lot of the frame twist.

[Cramer4918]

The starting point of mocking up the exhaust.

I purchased a Magnaflow 2.5” Stainless Builder’s Kit
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-20.jpg

Now I have to figure how to get all this snaked under BISKWIK..
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-21.jpg

[Cramer4918]

Starting the process..
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-22.jpg

I used a section of the straight pipe to line up on the bottom of the frame to check my ground clearance.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-23.jpg

Fitting the minor bend before the turn towards the back.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-24.jpg

Making the turn back.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-25.jpg

Plenty of clearance for the tire.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-26.jpg

Who knew Painter’s tape would be so versatile?!?!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-27.jpg

I used the boxes to assure there was plenty of clearance for the exhaust since they are right at the height of the bottom of the frame.

[Cramer4918]

I bought some stainless wire for my welder and was able to get the pieces tacked together. I know it’s not pretty, but I’m working with minimal tools.

My plan is to make the exhaust in three sections. I will use stainless clamps to join the sections together so that I can remove them if needed. I am going to take the sections to get TIG’d together.

I know the tacks are bigger than needed. I’m still learning to weld properly. The guy that is going to TIG the pieces together said he can work with them. I am hoping to be able to watch him and I will possibly grind some of the tacks down as he gets some solid welds in.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-28.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-29.jpg

Not too shabby for my first time building an exhaust.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-30.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-31.jpg

[wfo guy]

As a suggestion, have someone machine you a shaft for the cross shaft on the master cylinder. Have it solid where it passes through the the 2 connections and larger diameter in the center if you can assemble it that way. Use a lock nut on both ends to lock it solid so that the assembly doesn't have to rotate when the pedal is pushed. You are capable of around 150 lbs. of pressure on the pedal. Most pedals have a leverage ratio of around 5 or 6 to one. That is a minimum of around 750 lbs. of force on that rod assembly. If it bends, you loose your brake pedal pressure. Another option is to duplicate the original lever style and have it connected in tandem so the pressure on the brake booster rod is centered from that lever. Take no chances with brake mechanics. :)

[Cramer4918]

As a suggestion, have someone machine you a shaft for the cross shaft on the master cylinder. Have it solid where it passes through the the 2 connections and larger diameter in the center if you can assemble it that way. Use a lock nut on both ends to lock it solid so that the assembly doesn't have to rotate when the pedal is pushed. You are capable of around 150 lbs. of pressure on the pedal. Most pedals have a leverage ratio of around 5 or 6 to one. That is a minimum of around 750 lbs. of force on that rod assembly. If it bends, you loose your brake pedal pressure. Another option is to duplicate the original lever style and have it connected in tandem so the pressure on the brake booster rod is centered from that lever. Take no chances with brake mechanics. :)

Thank you for your suggestion. I have been trying to come up with a solution to make the lever assembly more rigid. I will look into that and see if that is something I can do.

[Cramer4918]

Hello Everyone! Time for a small update....

I didn’t work on it much while the kids were out of school for their break, but I was able to make some progress.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-1.jpg
Passenger side all the way out the back.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-2.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-3.jpg
Decent clearance for the tires. I am running 285/35’s on a 20X9 wheel.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-4.jpg
I need to make turndown for the mufflers still.

- - - Updated - - -

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-5.jpg
Driver's side complete as well

I had to order two 30 degree elbows to finish this side. A minor four day setback.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-6.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-7.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-8.jpg

Not too shabby for my first time building an exhaust. I have to get hangers in place and then I’ll take it all off to get TIG welded. I am hoping to have it all back on the car 100% by next weekend.

[Cramer4918]

The journey for cutting the tubing was painful in the beginning. Making clean cuts on the pipe was challenging with a 6” angle grinder. Not to mention, getting the tubing cut square on the bends. Initially I wrapped painters tape around the tubing and marked them that way. Most of the time I would end up making adjustments to my cuts to get the ends to mate up properly. That was time consuming to the say the least. I then discovered the technique of using a zip tie cinched down around the tubing. You could move it however you needed along the elbow and mark it. That allowed me to get the my cuts marked perfect every time!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-9.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-10.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-11.jpg
This helped out so much! It was like magic!

Another trick I learned was to make my cuts with a pipe/tubing cutter. I was able to find one that opened up to 2 5/8" on Amazon.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-12.jpg

It helped make the cuts perfect every time! It was a little difficult once the elbow got tighter, but it worked on the 30 degree elbows with no problem.

Hopefully that info helps whoever would want to tackle their own exhaust.

[Cramer4918]

I know it has been a while, but I am still around! Life has been happening along with some slow progress.

BISKWIK is on the road and is a blast to drive! It is still a work in progress, but I don't want to stop driving it to work on it.

Anyhow, here some pics to update the progress over the past year+.

I installed a transmission cooler for the 4L60E. I had to find a place to mount it and then made some mounts and had them welded onto the cooler.

Of course, I first had to modify the cooler to fit in the area in front of the core support.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/11/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/11/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-2.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/11/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-3.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/11/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-4.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/11/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-5.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/11/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-6.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/11/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-7.jpg

- - - Updated - - -

After getting the mounting position of the cooler, I had to find a way to route the lines. The Command decision was made to use bulkhead fittings through the core support. https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/11/emoji51-1.png


Here goes nothing!!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/11/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-8.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/11/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-9.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/11/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-10.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/11/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-11.jpg


Now to get from Point A to Point B….

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/11/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-12.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/11/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-13.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/11/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-14.jpg

Didn’t turn out too shabby if you ask me.
And yes, I did all that without removing the grill.

- - - Updated - - -

I went ahead and upgraded the front suspension even more. I picked up a set of Global West tubular A arms and Viking coilovers. Man, what a difference!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/11/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-15.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/11/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-16.jpg

Future plans will be to reinforce this ‘62 frame hiding in the back forty to eliminate a lot of the flex. I am considering the current frame under the car as the “mock up” frame.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/11/cachephpimghttps3A2F2Fuploadstapatalkcdn-17.jpg