LSA what mods? LSA into 70 Camaro swap question / parts

[tbal]

Hey guys,

Looking for some input. Finally getting around to getting this car done...

70 Camaro, LSA, T56, Ridetech...

1. LSA... since it’s out of the car, what mods do you guys suggest? Which pulley? Etc
Dont want to change the heads atm. Cam, injectors?

Suggestions on which mid/long tube headers to run?
I was thinking hooker PART# 70101312-RHKR

Oil pan thinking Holley Pan 302-1

Gas tank / pump thinking Holley 19-158 fuel tank (notched)Aerometer intank Fuel pump

Is it possible to utilize the factory ac unit on the LSA with a Vintage air setup?

[nicks67camaro]

On the LSA I would do the following

1. Verify you have the solid isolator in the snout.
2. Port the snout since its off.
3. Run a 9.55" lower or 10" you will need to verify clearance to the subframe.
4. If you have clearance issues you can run a 9.1/2.55 (crank and snout size)
5. Cam and supporting cam swap items
6. injectors should be ok

I run a straight 9.55" on mine but have heads/cam/ported case and snout. I wanted great power but not running things at max effort.

What LSA do you have? if you have a CTS-V you will have a power steering pump. If you have a ZL1 you will not. I have a ZL1 accessory drive and added the CTSV pump. Im using dirty dingo low mount and vintage air on a Speedtech protouring subframe. Not sure on the factory AC but the low mount ac and alternator will be tight. If you have a welder you can probably notch the subframe for clearance.

Get a ricks tank and a CTS-V pump with a vaporworx controller. Its well worth the cost.

[dhutton]

302-1 is a poor pan choice. -2 or -3 is better. I was able to use the stock CTS-V pan on my Art Morrison subframe. Stock accessories because that is that was all that was available back then. Now I would run a Wegener drive.

I run Ricks tank with a 5th Gen ZL1 pump and a Vaporworx controller. I would not use an Aeromotive pump if it was given to me. Reliability is poor imho. Depending on your tune you may need a boost reference fuel pump controller. Vaporworx has one.

I run a Speartech harness, ECM tune, and their injectors. Stock internals and no pulley changes. I like to keep thinks simple.

Rumor has it the CTS-V compressor is fixed displacement and will work with Vintage Air. I used a Sanden. Holley has a nice cast aluminum low mount compressor bracket.

Don

[joeko23]

What’s your HP goal? That will determine what mods you do/have to do. Definitely gets VaporWorx controller and either the ZL1 pump or CTSV pump again depends on your HP goal.

For me I chose to put in a solid isolator and replaced the stock upper pulley with a 2.38” griptec this will produce about 18lbs of boost or about 700hp at the crank. I also had to get larger injectors 72lb, a smaller belt (because the pulley is smaller), and I went with the CTSV pump and a VaporWorx controller. I’m using a Holley 302-2 pan and a dirty dingo low mount bracket with the small sanden compressor. For me, in a 69 Camaro the stock compressor didn’t fit in the subframe.

Let us know your HP goals and I can send you a link with recommended supporting mods

[tbal]

Hey guys,

Thanks for the quick response! Like everyone I want to make the most hp I can but keeping in mind comes a point where you start spending money and it’s not worth the horsepower gain. 700-750hp would be great so as long as I’m not replacing heads.

Is there any benefit doing a cam without heads? Which cam would you suggest?

I’m on stock frame, so not sure about clearance yet with the LSA. Yes it is the ZL1 version.
Upper and lower pulley, any links would be appreciated ��

What about cooling mods?

I’ll definitely go with your guys suggestions and get the 302-2 oil pan.

Ricks tank would be nice but not really inclined to dish out $2000 for one lol. Will the Holley notched one not work? Any link to purchase the CTSV pump and vapourworx controller. I want to make sure I have the correct models etc.

Any thoughts on those hooker headers?

That Sanden compressor this one? Holley part# 20-160 ?

For ECM I have the PSI ecu/harness.

Thanks guys, this is going to save me bunch of time and money as it’s been 3 years and finally can get this car on the road!

[NorCal-SS]

Sounds like sweet parts and to-do lists. Look into the restomod tanks from Ricks. They are stamped steel tanks and work with the OEM CTS-V and ZL1 fuel pump modules at a fraction of the cost of a stainless tank. I have the restomod/CTSV/VaporWorx combo and I think it’s the best way to go for an LSA retrofit.

[joeko23]

For me, I’m not comfortable messing with engine internals so I chose to get the 2.38” griptec pulley, but the 2.4” is pretty much the same. So with 2.38” upper pulley to make 700hp at crank you need a shorter belt, 72lb injectors and a larger intercooler than what comes stock on a ZL1.

Here’s links to a website with mods required depending on boost levels.
https://weaponxmotorsports.com/blogs/news/6826132-lsa-available-pulley-combos-and-supporting-mods-needed

For a cost effective tank. You can get a ricks restomod tank, from Matt’s classic bowties. Email or call them for a price I think they are like $350. But they have the hole for the ZL1/CTS-V fuel pump.

For VaporWorx this is the link if you go with a ZL1 pump:
https://www.vaporworx.com/shop/product/pressureworx-zl1-universal-lsa-pwm-fuel-module-controller/

And this is if you get the CTS-V pump:
https://www.vaporworx.com/shop/product/pressureworx-cts-v2-universal-lsa-pwm-fuel-module-controller/

You can call or email Carl and ask him which pump he recommends depending on your power level.

For fuel injectors, if you already have the injectors, I got mine reworked here:
https://fuelinjectorconnection.com/collections/injector-resizing-service/products/ls9-lsa-injector-resizing-up-to-80lbs-3bar

As far as where to get the fuel pump shop around at rock auto or Amazon or eBay. I think I got the CTS-V pump for $250?

This is the compressor and bracket I bought:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dirty-Dingo-OE-Sanden-SD7B10-LS-Low-Mount-AC-Kit-Camaro-CTSV-and-Vette-Spacing-/172755532568?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

[ORBandit]

You'll likely want to use a CTSV cover/brick, the ZL1 style on my 79TA required the shaker to clear.

[tbal]

Hey guys, thanks for the response !

The tank from Ricks sounds good but it’s not notched, I bc am running a 4link suspension... is the exhaust going to fit?

Ctsv or zl1 pump? What’s the difference?

Considering the Lingenfelter heads ($1600) seem decent priced. What’s thoughts on their pulleys etc?

[csouth]

Look that the mods joeko23 suggested, and I would probably include a PDS style cam in there. That will easily get you 700 flywheel hp... I have the BTR PDS stg 4 on mine now. I hear a lot of people on the LSA group I'm in mention the "she gone" cam by Dedicated Motorsports, but I don't know anyone with one. I can definitely speak to the drivability of the BTR though.
Heads aren't necessary, but I'd port the snout.
If the blower doesn't have the solid isolator, swap that and I would have the brick in the lid reinforced as they are known to have leaking issues when you do mods like pulley swaps to increase the boost.

Also would say get the biggest reservoir you can fit If you can't get a large HX.

[joeko23]

The difference between CTSV pump and ZL1 is that the CTSV pump has 2 pumps inside it while the ZL1 has 1 pump. Thus, the CTSV pump can handle more HP

I forgot to mention definitely have the supercharger brick reinforced.

Regarding the restomod tank, I have one for my 69 Camaro and have DSE mini tubs and everything fits. I have a Heidts IRS so my exhaust dumps before the IRS system, but if you had a solid axle 4 link setup I don’t see why you couldn’t run an exhaust through there. BUT call Ricks and ask them if there would be interference with exhaust and or minitubs. I don’t think you need the notched tank but I could be wrong LOL

[tbal]

Look that the mods joeko23 suggested, and I would probably include a PDS style cam in there. That will easily get you 700 flywheel hp... I have the BTR PDS stg 4 on mine now. I hear a lot of people on the LSA group I'm in mention the "she gone" cam by Dedicated Motorsports, but I don't know anyone with one. I can definitely speak to the drivability of the BTR though.
Heads aren't necessary, but I'd port the snout.
If the blower doesn't have the solid isolator, swap that and I would have the brick in the lid reinforced as they are known to have leaking issues when you do mods like pulley swaps to increase the boost.

Also would say get the biggest reservoir you can fit If you can't get a large HX.

What mods are you running with that cam? Heads aren’t necessary but if I’m trying to hit 750hp crank... it will help.

How to tell if have solid isolator or not?

brick in the lid? More info?

thanks!

[tbal]

The difference between CTSV pump and ZL1 is that the CTSV pump has 2 pumps inside it while the ZL1 has 1 pump. Thus, the CTSV pump can handle more HP

I forgot to mention definitely have the supercharger brick reinforced.

Regarding the restomod tank, I have one for my 69 Camaro and have DSE mini tubs and everything fits. I have a Heidts IRS so my exhaust dumps before the IRS system, but if you had a solid axle 4 link setup I don’t see why you couldn’t run an exhaust through there. BUT call Ricks and ask them if there would be interference with exhaust and or minitubs. I don’t think you need the notched tank but I could be wrong LOL

Wow I don’t know why I thought the ZL1 would have been a better pump then for the Caddy lol
What is this supercharger brick, pardon my newbness

I mean I ran an exhaust before without a notched tank so should be fine lol

Any headers recommends?

[joeko23]

It’s the internal supercharger intercooler located in the supercharger. This is the service. You send in yours. They weld the plates in to reinforce and ship back to you.

https://www.dedicatedmotorsports.com/reinforced-intercooler-brick-camaro-zl-lid-p/ribzl1.htm

If you can weld aluminum I can send a link to just buy the plates they are $35 I believe.

[tbal]

In might just have to buy them and have someone do them locally. It’s always a challenging shipping stuff from Canada to USA especially now with Covid nonsense.

[csouth]

What mods are you running with that cam? Heads aren’t necessary but if I’m trying to hit 750hp crank... it will help.

How to tell if have solid isolator or not?

brick in the lid? More info?

thanks!

Mine is an LS2 with LS3 Heads. I replaced the pushrods, and the springs are BTR .660, I also put in new lifters and did the trunnions on the rocker arms. I forgot to mention I have the Grip-Tec 2.40 upper pulley and stock lower. I haven't dyno'd mine yet but have seen sheets for the same setup avg around 630rwhp.

You would have to pull the snout off of the front to see what isolator you have. You definitely want the Lingenfelter version. I've heard a few stories of people using other versions only having to replace them later.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lpe-l960202012?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAjwu5CDBhB9EiwA0w6sLcoRyHz28_SbCTcUVor6 l3F-a6dYdRk_pO8FAVZBJFmlw4xRQVslyhoCWGkQAvD_BwE

I would order a pulley and hub while you're at it

https://weaponxmotorsports.com/products/weapon-x-griptec-pulley-cts-v-gen-2-camaro-zl1-gen-5-lsa?variant=4238621835291

IMO a cam, pulley and snout porting will definitely get you where you want to be.

[tbal]

Mine is an LS2 with LS3 Heads. I replaced the pushrods, and the springs are BTR .660, I also put in new lifters and did the trunnions on the rocker arms. I forgot to mention I have the Grip-Tec 2.40 upper pulley and stock lower. I haven't dyno'd mine yet but have seen sheets for the same setup avg around 630rwhp.

You would have to pull the snout off of the front to see what isolator you have. You definitely want the Lingenfelter version. I've heard a few stories of people using other versions only having to replace them later.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lpe-l960202012?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAjwu5CDBhB9EiwA0w6sLcoRyHz28_SbCTcUVor6 l3F-a6dYdRk_pO8FAVZBJFmlw4xRQVslyhoCWGkQAvD_BwE

I would order a pulley and hub while you're at it

https://weaponxmotorsports.com/products/weapon-x-griptec-pulley-cts-v-gen-2-camaro-zl1-gen-5-lsa?variant=4238621835291

IMO a cam, pulley and snout porting will definitely get you where you want to be.


thank you!!

I see not a lot of talk about heads... are they not worth doing the gain over stock ones?

[nicks67camaro]

thank you!!

I see not a lot of talk about heads... are they not worth doing the gain over stock ones?


I have FED stage 2 factory port. They are a work of art.

https://frankensteined.net/shop/gm-ls3-stage-2-fed-heads/

[joeko23]

Here’s a link to just the plates. If you find someone locally to weld maybe they can just make the plates for you too. Shipping is a rip off!

https://www.pcmofnc.com/product/lsa-supercharger-brick-reinforcement/

[tbal]

Hey guys will the CTSV pump work on the Holley tanks?

The restomod tank is great but shipping is like $300 to Canada for f sakes lol

[NorCal-SS]

Hey guys will the CTSV pump work on the Holley tanks?

The restomod tank is great but shipping is like $300 to Canada for f sakes lol

No it won’t. You could get a weld on kit from Ricks that would let you use the CTSV module or just order the restomod from summit. Shipping might be less that way

[NorCal-SS]

I should’ve mentioned I just received my restomod from Ricks yesterday and it’s a nice piece! The paint is now a more OEM silver instead of black like the pics I’ve seen which is a nice touch. And being able to use the corner pickups and CTSV module at this price point is awesome.

[Bigblockscott]

186525

This is the intercooler brick in the ZL1 lid. I am also in the middle of putting a LSA in a 70 Camaro. I am using a Detroit Speed subframe. Not sure on a stock subframe, but the factory accessory drive will not fit the DSE sub frame without some big notching. I went with a Wegner Automotive accessory drive.

186526

I also machined off the factory quick connect fittings and welded on -12AN fittings

[tbal]

I should’ve mentioned I just received my restomod from Ricks yesterday and it’s a nice piece! The paint is now a more OEM silver instead of black like the pics I’ve seen which is a nice touch. And being able to use the corner pickups and CTSV module at this price point is awesome.

I think I’m just going to have to bite the bullet and pay the ridiculous shipping. Do they sell the pumps as well?

- - - Updated - - -


186525

This is the intercooler brick in the ZL1 lid. I am also in the middle of putting a LSA in a 70 Camaro. I am using a Detroit Speed subframe. Not sure on a stock subframe, but the factory accessory drive will not fit the DSE sub frame without some big notching. I went with a Wegner Automotive accessory drive.

186526

I also machined off the factory quick connect fittings and welded on -12AN fittings

beauity! That will help... I just ordered the plates!

any pictures of what the isolator should or shouldn’t look like that needs to be replaced or modified?

thanks

[tbal]

So guys to confirm ,

Pulley run a 2.40 upper and 9.55 lower (will it clear stock sub?) weaponx?
302-2 pan
Long tube headers
Which cam?
Which injectors?
Ricks tank with CTSV pump and vaporworx controller
Solid isolator mod
Brick mod
Sanden ac comp w brackets

Are you guys doing any extra HE coolant tanks?

Goal... I think trying to hit 650whp... “safely” ... if that’s possible...

Did I miss any mods?

[ryeguy2006a]

I'm in the middle of an LSA swap myself and am very close to finishing it up. I don't have anything to add that hasn't already been addressed. I'm running the stock CTSV balancer and a 2.55 Griptech pulley. Should net me around 12psi. I'd also suggest a cam while you have it all apart anyway. I went with a baby cam and chose the Summit 8715 Ghost Cam.

I see all of the engine mods mentioned, but I couldn't help but think about your other driveline components. Is your T56 built to handle 650-700 HP? Also what clutch?

[Bigblockscott]

Tbal,

I can not find any pictures of when I did my solid isolater. But when you take the snout off, which can be a little stubborn, you'll see it. It rides on a 3 prong flange, 3 prongs on the blower snout, and 3 prongs in the blower body. The stock unit has a spring on it, and the spring wears its way through the plastic and can wear into the shaft. The solid isolater does away with the spring. Here is a picture I found on the internet.

186682

[csouth]

Tbal,

I can not find any pictures of when I did my solid isolater. But when you take the snout off, which can be a little stubborn, you'll see it. It rides on a 3 prong flange, 3 prongs on the blower snout, and 3 prongs in the blower body. The stock unit has a spring on it, and the spring wears its way through the plastic and can wear into the shaft. The solid isolater does away with the spring. Here is a picture I found on the internet.

186682

You want to use the LPE/Eaton version pictured below.

[tbal]

Great info Guys thank you...

Can someone link me to which vapourworx kit and CTSV pump please. It’s like the whole measure twice, cut once... I just wanna order the right stuff once lol

[Bigblockscott]

Call Rick or Hector at Rick's tanks. Super nice guys, super helpful.
1 (915) - 760 - 4388

[tbal]

Call Rick or Hector at Rick's tanks. Super nice guys, super helpful.
1 (915) - 760 - 4388

spoke to Hector @ Ricks and Carl @ Vapourworx... man! Haven’t met more helpful and nice guys in awhile! I would highly recommend and do business with these superb gentlemen and companies again!

[joeko23]

Your next call should be to Carl at VaporWorx he is a wealth of knowledge. Fire all your questions away!

[tbal]

Spoke to Carl too, I mentioned above :lol:

[tbal]

Almost there ; still hesitant to order ;

Pulley run a Griptec 2.40 upper? and 9.55 lower? (will it clear stock sub?)
Have to change lower? The upper... Hub pattern? Include hub?

Which cam? Considering BTR Stage 3
Which injectors? 72 or 80 lbs?

Trying to get to 750hp ...

[Bigblockscott]

Almost there ; still hesitant to order

Pulley run a Griptec 2.40 upper? and 9.55 lower? (will it clear stock sub?)
Have to change lower? The upper... Hub pattern? Include hub?

Which cam? Considering BTR Stage 3
Which injectors? 72 or 80 lbs?

Trying to get to 750hp ...


Your best and safest bet is to get the engine + transmission installed and set to how they are going to be when everything is all said and done. From there, you can measure for a lower pulley. I made the mistake of ordering a lower pulley before getting everything in place, long story short, the pulley I ordered was WAY too big, and now it has been so long since I ordered it, I can no longer return it.

Order the ATI damper for the LSA, get it without the AC pulley, you won't be able to fit the compressor in the stock location unless you are comfortable with cutting up the subframe. You will probably have to call them directly to get it without the AC pulley, but it will be cheaper. ATI offers a few different lower pulleys, but get the damper installed first so you can accurately see how much space you have, than order a lower pulley.
Also, order an ARP crank bolt.

For the pulley on the blower itself, get one that presses on like stock. Only reason for getting a hub with a bolt on style pulley would be if you plan on swapping pulleys often. Also if I remember correctly, you have to have your snout machined to accept the hub for a bolt on pulley. Take a look at the Weapon X Motorsports blower pulley chart. Once you know what size lower pulley you can fit, than you can use the chart to select your upper pulley.

I have the BTR stage 3 cam in my LSA, but I have not fired it up yet, so no comment on that.
Also no comment on fuel injector size, not knowledgeable enough to give a safe recommendation.

[tbal]

I want to do the motor mods before it goes into the car. I don’t want to have to pull it out later and mess up the paint etc.

So considering just the upper pulley for now. 2.40 good guys? Also the btr stage 3 and call it a day..

[CarlC]

None of the GM, Ford, Dodge, etc. fuel modules will fit an Aeromotive/Holley tank. The CTS-V/ZL1 fuel modules use a standardized USCAR spec where the tank-to-module interface is the same. A Ford module will clamp into a GM tank, but it does not mean it will be the correct height, electrical, etc. Just the tank interface is the same, and much larger than what has been used in the aftermarket for decades. Even my neighbors 2019 Honda Gold Wing has the same tank interface as a GM fuel module.

The CTS-V2 (2009-14) is a great module capable for up to 750fwhp supercharged. However, it has recently gone way up in price vs. the Gen5 ZL1. It is capable of roughly 650hp supercharged, so enough to feed LSA's with a pretty good amount of work done to them. It also is a great match for the LT4. For higher horsepower LT4 and all LT5 we recommend dual ZL1.

The modern fuel modules are so good that it's not even a fair comparison to the aftermarket offerings. The ZL1 module has a built in final filter, safety devices, is 750NA/650FI HP capable, is OEM validated, and will literally suck the tank dry during "spirited" driving before the engine stops running. Aftermarket offerings that use rubber buckets with holes in the bottom are not even in the same orbit as the OEM module. Return-type systems have not been used in Camaros, Cadillacs, GM trucks, Mustangs, etc. for nearly 20 years, they all use returnless PWM controlled fuel modules, including 800hp+ Demons.

There's a ton of info here to help with understanding of how these systems work starting here with Fuel Delivery 101: https://www.vaporworx.com/resources/

[tbal]

Hey Carl! As always you are so helpful. Looking forward to receiving the goodies!

- Tony

[tbal]

Hey guys, do I need to do New lifters , rods etc with the BTR stage 3 cam?

Can someone point me into the right direction on ones I need.

[Bigblockscott]

If you're putting in a new cam, I would absolutely do new lifters. I did stock GM lifters with my cam swap. I'm sure BTR could recommend something for you too. You will need to do new valve springs for that cam, the stock springs won't be happy with that much lift. Push rods will have to be measured for if you've had any machine work done. I did K1 rods in my motor because I plan on running the car hard, constantly, I've also read builds on the CTSV and Camaro forums where the guys turn the power way up and leave the stock rods.