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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Posts
      60

      LSA what mods? LSA into 70 Camaro swap question / parts

      Hey guys,

      Looking for some input. Finally getting around to getting this car done...

      70 Camaro, LSA, T56, ridetech...

      1. LSA... since itís out of the car, what mods do you guys suggest? Which pulley? Etc
      Dont want to change the heads atm. Cam, injectors?



      Suggestions on which mid/long tube headers to run?
      I was thinking hooker PART# 70101312-RHKR

      Oil pan thinking Holley Pan 302-1

      Gas tank / pump thinking Holley 19-158 fuel tank (notched)Aerometer intank Fuel pump

      Is it possible to utilize the factory ac unit on the LSA with a Vintage air setup?


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Jan 2007
      Location
      CT
      Posts
      795
      Country Flag: United States
      On the LSA I would do the following

      1. Verify you have the solid isolator in the snout.
      2. Port the snout since its off.
      3. Run a 9.55" lower or 10" you will need to verify clearance to the subframe.
      4. If you have clearance issues you can run a 9.1/2.55 (crank and snout size)
      5. Cam and supporting cam swap items
      6. injectors should be ok

      I run a straight 9.55" on mine but have heads/cam/ported case and snout. I wanted great power but not running things at max effort.

      What LSA do you have? if you have a CTS-V you will have a power steering pump. If you have a ZL1 you will not. I have a ZL1 accessory drive and added the CTSV pump. Im using dirty dingo low mount and vintage air on a Speedtech protouring subframe. Not sure on the factory AC but the low mount ac and alternator will be tight. If you have a welder you can probably notch the subframe for clearance.

      Get a ricks tank and a CTS-V pump with a vaporworx controller. Its well worth the cost.
      ________________
      Nick S.
      Gold/Gray 1967 Camaro

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      3,886
      Country Flag: United States
      302-1 is a poor pan choice. -2 or -3 is better. I was able to use the stock CTS-V pan on my Art Morrison subframe. Stock accessories because that is that was all that was available back then. Now I would run a Wegener drive.

      I run Ricks tank with a 5th Gen ZL1 pump and a Vaporworx controller. I would not use an Aeromotive pump if it was given to me. Reliability is poor imho. Depending on your tune you may need a boost reference fuel pump controller. Vaporworx has one.

      I run a Speartech harness, ECM tune, and their injectors. Stock internals and no pulley changes. I like to keep thinks simple.

      Rumor has it the CTS-V compressor is fixed displacement and will work with Vintage Air. I used a Sanden. Holley has a nice cast aluminum low mount compressor bracket.

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      537
      What’s your HP goal? That will determine what mods you do/have to do. Definitely gets VaporWorx controller and either the ZL1 pump or CTSV pump again depends on your HP goal.

      For me I chose to put in a solid isolator and replaced the stock upper pulley with a 2.38” griptec this will produce about 18lbs of boost or about 700hp at the crank. I also had to get larger injectors 72lb, a smaller belt (because the pulley is smaller), and I went with the CTSV pump and a VaporWorx controller. I’m using a Holley 302-2 pan and a dirty dingo low mount bracket with the small sanden compressor. For me, in a 69 Camaro the stock compressor didn’t fit in the subframe.

      Let us know your HP goals and I can send you a link with recommended supporting mods

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Posts
      60
      Hey guys,

      Thanks for the quick response! Like everyone I want to make the most hp I can but keeping in mind comes a point where you start spending money and it’s not worth the horsepower gain. 700-750hp would be great so as long as I’m not replacing heads.

      Is there any benefit doing a cam without heads? Which cam would you suggest?

      I’m on stock frame, so not sure about clearance yet with the LSA. Yes it is the ZL1 version.
      Upper and lower pulley, any links would be appreciated ��

      What about cooling mods?

      I’ll definitely go with your guys suggestions and get the 302-2 oil pan.

      Ricks tank would be nice but not really inclined to dish out $2000 for one lol. Will the Holley notched one not work? Any link to purchase the CTSV pump and vapourworx controller. I want to make sure I have the correct models etc.

      Any thoughts on those hooker headers?

      That Sanden compressor this one? Holley part# 20-160 ?

      For ECM I have the PSI ecu/harness.

      Thanks guys, this is going to save me bunch of time and money as it’s been 3 years and finally can get this car on the road!

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Apr 2015
      Posts
      21
      Country Flag: United States
      Sounds like sweet parts and to-do lists. Look into the restomod tanks from Ricks. They are stamped steel tanks and work with the OEM CTS-V and ZL1 fuel pump modules at a fraction of the cost of a stainless tank. I have the restomod/CTSV/VaporWorx combo and I think itís the best way to go for an LSA retrofit.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      537
      For me, I’m not comfortable messing with engine internals so I chose to get the 2.38” griptec pulley, but the 2.4” is pretty much the same. So with 2.38” upper pulley to make 700hp at crank you need a shorter belt, 72lb injectors and a larger intercooler than what comes stock on a ZL1.

      Here’s links to a website with mods required depending on boost levels.
      https://weaponxmotorsports.com/blogs...ng-mods-needed

      For a cost effective tank. You can get a ricks restomod tank, from Matt’s classic bowties. Email or call them for a price I think they are like $350. But they have the hole for the ZL1/CTS-V fuel pump.

      For VaporWorx this is the link if you go with a ZL1 pump:
      https://www.vaporworx.com/shop/produ...le-controller/

      And this is if you get the CTS-V pump:
      https://www.vaporworx.com/shop/produ...le-controller/

      You can call or email Carl and ask him which pump he recommends depending on your power level.

      For fuel injectors, if you already have the injectors, I got mine reworked here:
      https://fuelinjectorconnection.com/c...-to-80lbs-3bar

      As far as where to get the fuel pump shop around at rock auto or Amazon or eBay. I think I got the CTS-V pump for $250?

      This is the compressor and bracket I bought:
      https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dirty-Dingo....m46890.l49292

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Jun 2016
      Location
      Upstate NY
      Posts
      30
      You'll likely want to use a CTSV cover/brick, the ZL1 style on my 79TA required the shaker to clear.

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Posts
      60
      Hey guys, thanks for the response !

      The tank from Ricks sounds good but it’s not notched, I bc am running a 4link suspension... is the exhaust going to fit?

      Ctsv or zl1 pump? What’s the difference?

      Considering the Lingenfelter heads ($1600) seem decent priced. What’s thoughts on their pulleys etc?

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Dec 2008
      Location
      Detroit
      Posts
      2,487
      Country Flag: United States
      Look that the mods joeko23 suggested, and I would probably include a PDS style cam in there. That will easily get you 700 flywheel hp... I have the BTR PDS stg 4 on mine now. I hear a lot of people on the LSA group I'm in mention the "she gone" cam by Dedicated Motorsports, but I don't know anyone with one. I can definitely speak to the drivability of the BTR though.
      Heads aren't necessary, but I'd port the snout.
      If the blower doesn't have the solid isolator, swap that and I would have the brick in the lid reinforced as they are known to have leaking issues when you do mods like pulley swaps to increase the boost.

      Also would say get the biggest reservoir you can fit If you can't get a large HX.
      Big dreams, small pockets....

      Chris--
      '72 Cutlass S LSA/T56 Magnum
      Bowler Performance, Rushforth Wheels, ATS, Holley EFI, KORE3, Ridetech

      Project Motor City Madness

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      537
      The difference between CTSV pump and ZL1 is that the CTSV pump has 2 pumps inside it while the ZL1 has 1 pump. Thus, the CTSV pump can handle more HP

      I forgot to mention definitely have the supercharger brick reinforced.

      Regarding the restomod tank, I have one for my 69 Camaro and have DSE mini tubs and everything fits. I have a Heidts IRS so my exhaust dumps before the IRS system, but if you had a solid axle 4 link setup I don’t see why you couldn’t run an exhaust through there. BUT call Ricks and ask them if there would be interference with exhaust and or minitubs. I don’t think you need the notched tank but I could be wrong LOL

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Posts
      60
      Quote Originally Posted by csouth View Post
      Look that the mods joeko23 suggested, and I would probably include a PDS style cam in there. That will easily get you 700 flywheel hp... I have the BTR PDS stg 4 on mine now. I hear a lot of people on the LSA group I'm in mention the "she gone" cam by Dedicated Motorsports, but I don't know anyone with one. I can definitely speak to the drivability of the BTR though.
      Heads aren't necessary, but I'd port the snout.
      If the blower doesn't have the solid isolator, swap that and I would have the brick in the lid reinforced as they are known to have leaking issues when you do mods like pulley swaps to increase the boost.

      Also would say get the biggest reservoir you can fit If you can't get a large HX.
      What mods are you running with that cam? Heads arenít necessary but if Iím trying to hit 750hp crank... it will help.

      How to tell if have solid isolator or not?

      brick in the lid? More info?

      thanks!

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Posts
      60
      Quote Originally Posted by joeko23 View Post
      The difference between CTSV pump and ZL1 is that the CTSV pump has 2 pumps inside it while the ZL1 has 1 pump. Thus, the CTSV pump can handle more HP

      I forgot to mention definitely have the supercharger brick reinforced.

      Regarding the restomod tank, I have one for my 69 Camaro and have DSE mini tubs and everything fits. I have a Heidts IRS so my exhaust dumps before the IRS system, but if you had a solid axle 4 link setup I donít see why you couldnít run an exhaust through there. BUT call Ricks and ask them if there would be interference with exhaust and or minitubs. I donít think you need the notched tank but I could be wrong LOL
      Wow I donít know why I thought the ZL1 would have been a better pump then for the Caddy lol
      What is this supercharger brick, pardon my newbness

      I mean I ran an exhaust before without a notched tank so should be fine lol

      Any headers recommends?

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      537
      It’s the internal supercharger intercooler located in the supercharger. This is the service. You send in yours. They weld the plates in to reinforce and ship back to you.

      https://www.dedicatedmotorsports.com...d-p/ribzl1.htm

      If you can weld aluminum I can send a link to just buy the plates they are $35 I believe.

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Posts
      60
      In might just have to buy them and have someone do them locally. It’s always a challenging shipping stuff from Canada to USA especially now with Covid nonsense.

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Dec 2008
      Location
      Detroit
      Posts
      2,487
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by tbal View Post
      What mods are you running with that cam? Heads arenít necessary but if Iím trying to hit 750hp crank... it will help.

      How to tell if have solid isolator or not?

      brick in the lid? More info?

      thanks!
      Mine is an LS2 with LS3 Heads. I replaced the pushrods, and the springs are BTR .660, I also put in new lifters and did the trunnions on the rocker arms. I forgot to mention I have the Grip-Tec 2.40 upper pulley and stock lower. I haven't dyno'd mine yet but have seen sheets for the same setup avg around 630rwhp.

      You would have to pull the snout off of the front to see what isolator you have. You definitely want the Lingenfelter version. I've heard a few stories of people using other versions only having to replace them later.

      https://www.summitracing.com/parts/l...hoCWGkQAvD_BwE

      I would order a pulley and hub while you're at it

      https://weaponxmotorsports.com/produ...=4238621835291

      IMO a cam, pulley and snout porting will definitely get you where you want to be.
      Big dreams, small pockets....

      Chris--
      '72 Cutlass S LSA/T56 Magnum
      Bowler Performance, Rushforth Wheels, ATS, Holley EFI, KORE3, Ridetech

      Project Motor City Madness

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Posts
      60
      Quote Originally Posted by csouth View Post
      Mine is an LS2 with LS3 Heads. I replaced the pushrods, and the springs are BTR .660, I also put in new lifters and did the trunnions on the rocker arms. I forgot to mention I have the Grip-Tec 2.40 upper pulley and stock lower. I haven't dyno'd mine yet but have seen sheets for the same setup avg around 630rwhp.

      You would have to pull the snout off of the front to see what isolator you have. You definitely want the Lingenfelter version. I've heard a few stories of people using other versions only having to replace them later.

      https://www.summitracing.com/parts/l...hoCWGkQAvD_BwE

      I would order a pulley and hub while you're at it

      https://weaponxmotorsports.com/produ...=4238621835291

      IMO a cam, pulley and snout porting will definitely get you where you want to be.

      thank you!!

      I see not a lot of talk about heads... are they not worth doing the gain over stock ones?

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Jan 2007
      Location
      CT
      Posts
      795
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by tbal View Post
      thank you!!

      I see not a lot of talk about heads... are they not worth doing the gain over stock ones?

      I have FED stage 2 factory port. They are a work of art.

      https://frankensteined.net/shop/gm-l...e-2-fed-heads/
      ________________
      Nick S.
      Gold/Gray 1967 Camaro

    19. #19
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      537
      Here’s a link to just the plates. If you find someone locally to weld maybe they can just make the plates for you too. Shipping is a rip off!

      https://www.pcmofnc.com/product/lsa-...reinforcement/

    20. #20
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Posts
      60
      Hey guys will the CTSV pump work on the Holley tanks?

      The restomod tank is great but shipping is like $300 to Canada for f sakes lol

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