Angry Johnny's 69 Camaro Build [Archive]

Rodknock

04-13-2020, 06:03 PM

I guess I never started a build thread for my car, so today seems like a good day to start.
For me it's very slow progress. I bought the car in 2012, while I was living in WY, and didn't start doing anything to it till 2016. Then I moved to a new house up there, and lived a couple of years, then ended up moving to AZ in July of 2018. Been busy working and moving it seems, so now time to focus. I won't bore you with anymore of my life. Lets get to the Nitty Gritty.

Bought the car off of Ebay. Drove to El Paso TX from WY to pick it up. I only have one pic of the car from when I bought it, since my other computer crashed, and I haven't been able to get the pics off of it yet.

I'll start off with a few basic pics and some as I have time.

Ebay pic of car, and what it looked like when I bought it.

These first few pics were all done around March of 2016, in the middle/end of winter, in my 1 1/4 car garage. It was cold, but not too awful snowy at least.

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Finally got off my arse and started doing something.

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Next up was the rotisserie. Working in a small 1 1/4 car garage. I would never build a car without one again. Makes life soo much easier. Especially when you're old.:lmao:

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I have since, changed the mounting on the rear, to use the old spring shackle holes.

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Rodknock

04-13-2020, 06:06 PM

This was an exciting day!! The day all the stuff from Heidts showed up, along with the DSE mini tubs. Thanks to the members here for recommending Randy Johnson over at D&Z customs. He honored the price he quoted me, even though I didn't order it for over a year, from the first time I talked to him about it.

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Rodknock

04-13-2020, 06:11 PM

Next on the list of things I did, BACK THEN, was clean the bottom side of the body, to get prepped for trunk pan replacement, and what ended up being a top of dash replacement also. Even "rust free" cars, have rust in hidden places.

Some of the rust holes in the trunk. Way too many to weld shut.

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Here, I used my plasma cutter to cut away a portion of the trunk pan, since there was rust in it, and will be replaced.

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After blasting

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- - - Updated - - -

Also blasted the interior and had to replace the top of dash. I was just going to patch it, but it was recommended to replace it. Glad I did, because the rust under it was bad.

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Measure twice cut once, ok, measure 3 times

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Rodknock

04-13-2020, 06:15 PM

Next on the list is mini tubs. These are DSE tubs, and are very nice units. Having the trunk floor out made the job WAY easier. DSE has a couple of videos on their site showing how to install them. I had never done them before and it took roughly 40 hours to do.

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Rodknock

04-13-2020, 06:32 PM

Next after the mini tubs, is the trunk pan replacement. I don't remember when this is, but it was probably spring of 2016 when I did this. Shortly after this, I did the firewall, then I moved to a new house, so there was a long break in the action.

I must have taken this thing in and out 100 times before I was satisfied with the fithttps://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/cFappDB-1.jpghttps://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/QazGf9z-1.jpghttps://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/G6QLJ3T-1.jpghttps://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/Sa8EcaQ-1.jpghttps://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/LbVfF3g-1.jpghttps://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/hVTNKUY-1.jpg

Rodknock

04-13-2020, 06:57 PM

This was the last major thing I did before I moved to a new house, other than bolting on the suspension to allow me to move the car.

Fully smoothed out firewall. I was just going to weld everything up, but decided this would be easier. Now I need to figure out my hole for the steering column

Simple as drilling out the spot welds, straightening out the trans tunnel flange a bit, then test fitting a flat piece of sheet metal in place.

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Rodknock

04-13-2020, 07:05 PM

Time for assembling the Heidts front end components, then test fitting it all!!

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That's the new rotor, inside the original 14" Rally rim!!

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Out with the old

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Shocking, isn't it!! :razz:

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Totally Tubular!!

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In with the new!!

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1 1/4" splined sway bar

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Alwhite00

04-13-2020, 07:17 PM

Looks great so far, keep it up man.

Rodknock

04-13-2020, 07:23 PM

Looks great so far, keep it up man.

Thanks brother!!

Rodknock

04-13-2020, 07:45 PM

Pre assembly and test fit of the Heidt's Pro G IRS system.

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Subframe connectors

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Rodknock

04-13-2020, 07:50 PM

Well, now things slow down, due to a move from the little house we were in with a 1 1/4 car garage, to a house we bought with a 30 x 45 pole barn building :jump: Only thing is, I stopped progress on the car to try to re-do the shop, and basically wasted time and money, I could have put towards the car

:banghead:

You can see a little of the shop in the background

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Poor car, just siting there all neglected and stuff :(

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I had big plans for this shop. Office, spray booth, insulated, heated. Almost got it finished, when we ended up moving south from Wyoming to AZ.

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Rodknock

04-13-2020, 07:55 PM

In this extremely short episode, we have the move from WY to AZ. I hope to God, I never move again. Happy wife, happy life... This move happened in July 2018. Nothing like moving to the AZ desert in the summer. Oh, and lost the tranny in the truck, 3 days after we moved to the new house, :banghead:
So ended up buying a new truck :ripped:

I didn't even make it 30 miles out of town and that tarp was history, then on top of that it stated thundering, lightening, hail, rain... It really sucked

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To the new digs. At least it's a (mostly) finished shop. 3 car size, and a lift. What's not to like!!

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Rodknock

04-13-2020, 07:58 PM

Sorry, I am a little out of order here. These pics are from when I was !@@#$%$^^ing with the front end sheet metal, while I still lived in WY. I was trying to get it to line up correctly. Needless to say, Angry Johnny made his presence known, with this nightmare.

So, after inquiring about front end sheet metal, what I got from folks was:
Get AMD fenders, they are the best. Well, I bought 2 of them and initially I thought, yes!! They are pretty good, till I started bolting everything up. Then, it didn't look so hot.

First step was to make sure door to body gaps were good.

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OK, with door to body set, I just laid the fenders on the car, and they actually looked pretty decent.

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Mid gap was not great, but not awful

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Passenger side was actually a better fit than the driver side

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Alright, then I started bolting up everything else, and the poor fit reared it's ugly head. With the core support, and all the other front end stuff in place, this is what the driver door gap ended up looking like. That is pretty bad

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The gap on the grille to the header panel was almost an inch on the driver side. The passenger side was just about perfect.

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Now if I took a jack to the bottom of the fender where the lower extensions mount, I could get the grille gap to look good, but it was at the cost of tweaking the fender. It was almost like the core support was too high on the driver side. I had the correct bushings in the correct spot.

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Rodknock

04-13-2020, 08:01 PM

Well, now that I have finally settled into the new house, and my current (same) job, in a new state, it's time to finally get back to it.

Since I was having such major issues with the front end sheet metal, when I was in WY, I decided to start from scratch. First thing I did was make absolutely certain that the subframe was centered on the body.

I also wanted to try and find some OEM fenders for it, to see if they actually fit any better than the aftermarket units. I ended up spending WAY too much money on a used set of OEM fenders, that were in need of repair work. I ended up only using the driver side fender, and an AMD passenger fender. Believe it or not, the OEM metal, didn't really fit much better. Some areas were better, while others not so much. I kinda messed up the OEM passenger fender, when I tried repair work on it. It can still be fixed, but I was too pissed off about it, so I just bought another AMD fender.

So counting all this up. The car came with two Chinese fenders of unknown mfg. when I bought the car. I then bought 2 AMD fenders on assurance they were the best. They were only marginally better than the unknown Chinese units that were on there. I then bought the 2 OEM fenders that were f!@#ked up, and screwed one of them up with my crappy welding skills. Then I purchased one more AMD passenger side fender that actually fit pretty well. So a total of 7 fenders to finally get a pair that I could live with.

So step one was making sure frame was centered. It was off a little, but not much.Maybe it made the difference. Door gaps were double checked, so it was time for action.Fender to door gaps look good.

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This was a major area of concern for me before, in that sad eye droop was really bad. A friend back east that's a body guy, gave me a tip on how to remedy it, and it worked quite well. Before and after

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Passenger side, was never really too bad.

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Overall, I can live with this, so I bagged and tagged, every nut, bolt, and shim, so it can go right back in the same place ( I hope)

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Rodknock

04-13-2020, 08:07 PM

Moving along to the day after Christmas of 2019.
Now that the panel alignment fiasco is behind me, it's time to strip her down to the skeleton. I was just doing sporadic body work on it, when my friend suggest taking it down completely and stripping all the paint off. He was telling me the fumes from the paint remover can actually loosen and lift the body filler, so it's better to start from bare metal, then deal with the body work.
The car only had a primer coat, and the original rally green under it, so it's not had much done on the last 50 years, but definitely has some road rash.

Take it all down. I wonder how many more times I'll do this

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What do you do when you have to take the hood off by yourself? You improvise

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I almost stuck with the original green, but chose something else. You'll see soon, if you stay tuned to this build

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Some rust in the lower left rear quarter to fix

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Got'r up on the rotisserie

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Videos for your entertainment

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My FUBAR

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eeTTj8eOTOo

Rodknock

04-13-2020, 08:10 PM

The door hinges weren't really too bad as far as slop was concerned, but I wanted to do them anyway, and replace the nylon bushings with metal.

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Primered everything, just to take it apart again for the stripping and tear down. Hey, I never said I was smart. :twak:

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Rodknock

04-13-2020, 08:12 PM

Driver side B pillar was pretty messed up, and had some shoddy repair work done. (not that I'll do much better) Looks like something fell against the car at some point, because the quarter panel had a dent in it, that lined up almost perfectly with the damage on the pillar.

Once I got it down to bare metal, I started welding up the holes, and also straightened it out as much as I could. I didn't get a good shot of the window channel, but it was bent inward about 1/2"

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I decided to try out Eastwood's Body Solder kit, instead of slapping a bunch of filler on it. Especially a high stress area like this, that is prone to flexing and cracking. Works pretty well, although it's tough applying it to a vertical surface.

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https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/sMXL2zV-1.jpg

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https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/dgMTVrY-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/PoPgGHP-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/bEQfR09-1.jpg

Rodknock

04-13-2020, 08:15 PM

I had some folks tell me to replace my quarter panels with new ones. To me, the car is only original once, so I wanted to save them, as much as I could. Also, seeing the fitment issues with aftermarket panels..NO, I don't want to deal with that headache!!

This is the second thing to repair after the roof B pillar.
Just bought a patch panel, cut out the old, treated the inside part with rust inhibitor, and welded the new panel in place.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/sjIhwXZ-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/NV3z9JJ-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/X87yfyC-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/C5Ox573-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/qvGvpqU-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/BJAniro-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/xl2z2x2-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/hueK9Hh-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/aRLMLci-1.jpg

Rodknock

04-13-2020, 08:17 PM

I purchased a Tank Inc. fuel tank for a 67/68 Camaro, because I want to have the fuel filler up high, plus with a billet fuel filler, it looks kinda cool. I haven't yet fitted the tank into the car, but will be shortly, while I have it on the rotisserie. I hope I can make it work, otherwise, I'll have a tank for sale.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/xdDcE00-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/LsW3YQV-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/mNBZeAs-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/Vx1H0EM-1.jpg

Rodknock

04-13-2020, 08:23 PM

I am, at a point of starting to do body work, which as you can tell, I don't do so well. Started working the top of the roof, when my friend suggested to not do anymore filler work, till I stripped the car of paint, because the paint remover fumes, can get into the filler and loosen it or soften it. I never even thought about that!! Also, this was originally a vinyl top car.

Also, he said don't spot repair the roof. Skim coat the whole panel, along with every panel on the car, then sand it off, because it will fake you out, where the high and low spots are. Boy, he was right about that!!

So here I was, starting to do just spot repair on the roof, before the actual full tear down. I never said I was smart :hammer:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/wOMpG6L-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/5ueaQQZ-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/B0YUmG3-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/m5PVckp-1.jpg

So here's a full skim coat before sanding

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/6bYiIA2-1.jpg

After some sanding

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/bd0vi7H-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/ikcvC85-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/xmq0jiW-1.jpg

Some guide coat

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/RKn0wjj-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/bd0vi7H-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/sQVRDio-1.jpg

Rodknock

04-13-2020, 08:30 PM

You just never know what lurks under the primer that someone else did. Till you get down to a clean slate, you just never know.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/ULXjdCG-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/52NQv75-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/3o9jjad-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/Sve8Qrs-1.jpg

Little MAP gas torch works well for taking filler off. Just have to be careful not to get the panel too hot.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/awqktC0-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/Bnq0ORR-1.jpg

Clean slate. It was suggested on a FB page that I should replace the quarter panels, but, I said no way!! After all the issues I had with front sheet metal fitment, there was no way, I was going to deal with full quarter panel replacement. Besides these are still the original panels, and the door gaps are perfect. Somebody did a decent job of getting that passenger side pulled out with a slide hammer, it just need the holes welded shut. No big deal. I think I counted 54 holes total though

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/l22yyG6-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/snO4KCo-1.jpg?2

- - - Updated - - -

Just a quickie. Driver side rocker panel. On this car, I plan to weld all the holes shut. If I decide later to do chrome trim, it will be attached with 2 sided tape of some type.
Skim coat for the rocker, after welding the trim holes closed, and trying to pull out some dents in the bottom, that were likely caused from a jack. That metal under there is thick and tough!!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/k8V1r0n-1.jpg

- - - Updated - - -

Since I was mostly finished with the roof, I decided to put it in primer, since it has been exposed for several weeks. Luckily out here in the AZ desert, it is very dry.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/e4rtE5k-1.jpg

- - - Updated - - -

This is more or less where I left off about a week ago. Got called to work and only part way finished it. I still have a few high spots, to deal with, as you can see from the exposed metal.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/aiskOQw-1.jpg

Rodknock

04-13-2020, 08:33 PM

If you have been following along up to this point, thank you. It's pretty boring I know.

This is really exciting though!! At least to me it is. This is color choice, which I have spent over a year, trying to figure out. For me, wheel choice was easier than this!!

A little (boring) history, as to how this all started.
I was working in Alliance NE (I work for the railroad), and was there for over a year (Jan 2015 till March 2016) During my idle time, which there was a lot of, I found myself building 1/12 scale Foose models of the 69 Camaro, to test paint schemes.

So here's some examples:

At first, I thought blue.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/lFJrfJn-1.jpg

Then I thought, why not be different, and try something other than the red, blue, black, Camaro. I liked it, but I didn't love it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/0wVkfiL-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/qvNSkfQ-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/435Hg4K-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/IW4162j-1.jpg

Then I found this one online, which I liked better than the models I built, since it had the colors flipped

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/tEzuF5C-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/7aCj1h7-1.jpg

That's when another friend said, " Think about it. You like it now, but, will you still like it 2 years from now?" Hmmm, valid point. I didn't want to do something that would be considered out of style in a couple of years. So, back to the drawing board. I decided just to keep it simple (ish). Can't go wrong with a solid color, and good ol SS stripes!!So, the hunt for the perfect shade of green began, because I wanted it green. That's when I found this car, while doing a search. It was difficult to find pics of this car online. Seems like not too many exist. I fell in love with the look, and the color, the moment I saw it

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/ntRwDUF-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/HKAFi4r-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/KkehcV5-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/JdtkT7R-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/92ok4eW-1.jpg

Rodknock

04-13-2020, 08:37 PM

The Camaro above is actually painted, Dodge Viper, Snakeskin Green.
The color of choice for me is, HOK (House of Kolor) Lime Mist. It was a limited edition color. I was about 2 weeks too late in getting the factory offering of this color, but luckily I found a paint supplier, that has the formula to make it for me.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/ScHoOfp-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/IpApJnq-1.jpg

Here's C10 Chevy truck that was painted in this color

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/BsdcvMn-1.png

I painted a test fender, to see if I liked the color, and I just fell in love with it!! Even today, when I open the garage, and see it there on the stand,it still blows me away.

I first primed the fender with HOK KD 3000 primer/sufacer

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/haTyH1z-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/zUzwMxc-1.jpg

I then wet sanded it with 400 grit

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/1QU0A61-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/BeD8sNR-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/z2Z8pRW-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/2NFEXeu-1.jpg

As my paint guy suggested, instead of using a silver, gold, or white base, he said to use a tinted sealer, that's close to the paint color, so as to not have use as much of the expensive paint, to get the same coverage.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/U1Ckuyn-1.jpg

Rodknock

04-13-2020, 08:40 PM

Base coat. 3 total coats

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/58QxxSK-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/Ooedxif-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/mgtSaQo-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/fZkA3Gm-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/kgvIyw2-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/OAMRV6v-1.jpg

2 coats of clear

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/Q9cjQyU-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/fiQ9VdW-1.jpg

Videos below to show how it reflects the sunlight!!

Sd7BLjInJK8

17Q5giJb-ZE

Rodknock

04-13-2020, 08:45 PM

Today, I worked on the passenger side rear quarter. I had a lot of holes to weld shut, from a previous slide hammer experience (likely in the 70's) They actually did a decent job of getting the panel pulled out, so I basically just had to close the holes up. I'm not to handy with the welder on sheet metal, or it's just too hard to get it adjusted correctly (old Millermatic 200)

Had a guy tell me to just replace the whole quarter panel, but I just didn't feel it needed to be done. The fit of aftermarket panels sucks so bad, I just didn't want to deal with the headache, plus it would have been way more work that just closing up a few (50) holes. Only took a couple of hours, instead off weeks, for a quarter replacement. Plus the door gaps are perfect, and it's only original once.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/BVaU2pn-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/ZO18F8K-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/t6EKdnI-1.jpg

Using a brass rod or copper plate behind the holes, helped immensely with keeping me from blowing the sheet metal away like tissue paper.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/HbxLgir-1.jpg

In some areas, I couldn't get anything behind the hole and it shows (yes Angry Johnny made his presence known

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/OSKgtOL-1.jpg

Finally cover up the mess

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/D09EQAR-1.jpg

Geez, it got dark :lol:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/0Bo2OZT-1.jpg

Rodknock

04-13-2020, 08:47 PM

Finished out the skim coats on the passenger quarter and rocker panel. Next is the B pillars, but now the hardest part is behind me...I hope
Then, prime, block, repeat over and over.

Passenger rocker panels

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/TOyVH34-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/6iQyBBa-1.jpg

Driver side

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/gJ7bVi1-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/FyGFVkj-1.jpg

Passenger side

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/vpXvReU-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/IKX79YY-1.jpg

Rodknock

04-13-2020, 08:51 PM

Did some more work today. Got the roof, B pillars, and quarters all blocked, but this is only the first pass, so there will be more.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/5NJ398T-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/IhwRI3T-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/7fSDDKM-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/wNuJA1o-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/lh7LSeZ-1.jpg

Low spot on driver side

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/60qTXkD-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/82Noqp6-1.jpg

Finished with the first sand

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/itTqjJW-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/JISCNTR-1.jpg

Roof

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/rwSeg7S-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/w6TrH2Q-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/GLiWuLo-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/rwSeg7S-1.jpg

Rodknock

04-14-2020, 07:43 PM

Got the hardest part of the Ride Tech fuel filler/cap finished. Installing a 67/68 tank in my 69 and using the 67/68 style Ride Tech fuel cap. Also purchased a nifty little plate from Holohans Hot Rod Shop. This was worth every penny of the $38 they charge for it. Saves a ton of fabrication time
https://holohanshotrods.com/product/ridetech-universal-gas-cap-18ga-sheetmetal-panel/

Tanks Inc tank. Nice piece

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/LsW3YQV-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/xdDcE00-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/Vx1H0EM-1.jpg

Of course the 67/68 Camaro fuel filler is offset to the passenger side. Didn't realize this, but luckily the RideTech cap is set up for it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/yVq40w2-1.jpg

Here's all the pieces parts. It was really awesome of RideTech to supply me with 7 10-32 screws and one 10-24 screw. Lucky I caught it beofre I stripped the threads.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/qbpXYQg-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/DGfdtgC-1.jpg

Test fit the tank and start cutting the floor

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/geVUn7j-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/fkBEtiI-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/jFRrxPe-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/emJlnCy-1.jpg

Measure twice (6 times) cut once. My 4" hole saw was dull, so I had a 1 day delay, till I picked up a new one. Didn't want to burn my way through and warp the panel. I just threw my dented and bent bumper up there for measuring purposes

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/WSaMAA6-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/xD850Le-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/DybOt16-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/Ltf5DHW-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/cNR5MKj-1.jpg

Rodknock

04-14-2020, 07:46 PM

OK, continuing on with the fuel stuff. My Eyecrometer says it good :lol:

Notched the top to fit where the trunk lock is at, and trimmed it down a little. I figured I would keep it on the larger side, to help with possible flexing. Shouldn't hurt anything.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/V71i9Hc-1.jpg

Welded in place. I got rid of the straight Argon gas I had in my mig welder, and picked up some 75/25 CO2 argon mix. Now the welder (not me, the machine), works like it's supposed to. :lol:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/EVMQ9f6-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/QemhSnY-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/togbvET-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/qQMqLi3-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/BKkpCIU-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/JvxXJZQ-1.jpg

- - - Updated - - -

Been busy lately. I did a little seam sealer tonight, but that was it. In case anyone doesn't know, using masking tape before laying it down, helps keep it neat, and makes clean up a lot easier.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/CYLG9YD-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/zaG9uPB-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/r3nCAE1-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/r8mV4ej-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/kh1AyF1-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/OFH7377-1.jpg

Rodknock

04-14-2020, 07:49 PM

I'm finished with the second round of block sanding on the body. Still a little more fine tuning on the tail panel/valance, then I'll move up to the firewall, which should be pretty straightforward since it's flat and doesn't have all the contours the tail panel has.

Here's the primer still wet, so you can see it's getting straighter.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/In24lIL-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/WhnbeJN-1.jpg

Close up of orange peel. It's just primer.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/CSK5dS8-1.jpg

Primer all dry. Had to leave for work, so it will continue later. At least it will have time to dry.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/LVqSWIW-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/xOYHBVZ-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/4WNWsIz-1.jpg

Rodknock

12-31-2020, 09:00 PM

I wasn't happy with the seam sealer. The primer ended up cracking on me, and as it turns out, paint prep melts it :banghead:

We'll see how it turns out, when I prime it this time. As info, it was Eastwood seam sealer and their paint prep. I guess they're not compatible with each other.. Hmm

This side wasn't too bad, just had to do a small area

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/01/KkRlIHC-1.jpg

Redid this whole section here

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/01/rBrEcm0-1.jpg

Had to re-do both sides of this panel.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/01/2tsktqQ-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/01/hkpsLLP-1.jpg

- - - Updated - - -

Finally finished blocking the body shell. Did some 320 wet, so I could see how it looked. Seems straight enough to live with it.

Even though it's just grey primer, being wet really shows the light reflection.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/01/oMyMl8L-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/01/gRu3pc5-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/01/s1Lc37H-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/01/IwY48U4-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/01/qXc4yXy-1.jpg

Rodknock

12-31-2020, 09:08 PM

I started mixing the tinted sealer the other day, just to see how it looked.
9 parts KD 3003 yellow to 1 part KD 3005 blue, to create a green, that's pretty close to what the color of the car will be.

These are cards listing some of the color capabilities using the HOK KD 3000 series primer/surfacers. Obviously the choices are limitless. You can actually spray your colors over this chart to see what your effect will look like.

I circled the one I'm using.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/01/aDjMqsk-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/01/8gEYv9J-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/01/YUpsFkI-1.jpg

Close as it gets

https://youtu.be/rvSBBKfXwYI

https://youtu.be/8f5N8IRlDSw

Rodknock

12-31-2020, 09:15 PM

Now that 4 months of heat are over with, I can move along. Getting back to the fuel tank mounting, and also made a fuel pump/sending unit access panel.

I originally wasn't going to make this large of a hole, but decided it would be best to do it like this after all. Just easier to work with flat surfaces.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/01/x6bbFLe-1.jpg

This is what you do when you don't have a roller to form sheet metal. Improvise..hahaha

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/01/AOI4njl-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/01/8eH9yZy-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/01/rOrhma2-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/01/IUIgmAE-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/01/YgKpyS8-1.jpg

Lots of test fitting and trial and error

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/01/2cfnTHH-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/01/vsMzWAJ-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/01/By6acVl-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/01/koqZyBL-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/01/zLrabBI-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/01/wMDYK1C-1.jpg

- - - Updated - - -

Made the hole in the wrong spot and had to redo it. Didn't allow for the angle of the neck. :banghead:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/01/vvJBcpQ-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/01/F4Cpdtb-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/01/Mbn2vZi-1.jpg

- - - Updated - - -

Decided to make a fuel pump/sending unit access panel. Found one online for $175 bucks. This cost me $20 and a couple of hours.

1" x 1/4" flat bar. Opening is approx 12" x 7"

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/01/FLz2cMg-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/01/spgDTlQ-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/01/oKT0WdB-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/01/I173ajA-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/01/krxVjHH-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/01/A2XDpEg-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/01/LNGvApC-1.jpg

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Rodknock

12-31-2020, 09:18 PM

Time to work on the underbody. I painted the frame rails today. Tomorrow I'll mask off the frame rails and do the floors. I'll do them with Rustoleum bed liner, then I will paint it body color.

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Ready for the floor tomorrow

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- - - Updated - - -

I sprayed Rust-O-Leum bedliner on the underside floor pan. I know everybody says to use Lizard Skin or something else, but this is what I had. I live on dirt road that is sand and also has wash board, so I wanted something tough, and I also painted it what the body color would be. Didn't know for sure if Lizard Skin could be top coated or not.

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Rodknock

12-31-2020, 09:21 PM

After letting the bed liner dry for 24 hours, I painted over it. First with a green sealer, then the base coat, then the clear coat. ALmost didn't have enough clear. Could have probably used another good coat, but that's ok, it will work. It looks grainy, because it's going over the bedliner texture coat. If I would have been motivated enough to body work the floor, I might have skipped the bedliner, but it does cover up imperfections.

I first tried an inconspicuous spot to see if it would look ok, and not have any bad reaction with the bed liner.

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Time for base coat

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Time for clear coat

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Rodknock

12-31-2020, 09:23 PM

Got the fuel tank, somewhat permanently mounted. I think I'll have to yank it back out to replace the filler hose. I need an angled one to work with the Ridetech fuel filler.

Prepping the anti-rattle strips. I decided to attach them to the vehicle instead of the tank itself. I don't know if it really matter either way.
Only 30,246 more parts to go :banghead:

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Rodknock

12-31-2020, 09:25 PM

Started installing some of the rear suspension components. I was going to polish the Heidts aluminum center section, but it was recommended to just do "chrome" powder coating. Sadly, that didn't turn out so well, but I'll live with it. Not really going to show under the car anyway. The powder coater felt really bad about it. He said it might happen (gassing). He cooked it in the oven for 5 hours, hoping to get the impurities out of it, but it still pitted. Just cheap dirty casting from the mfg. Nothing he could do. Only charged me $100, instead of the original $200 quote. I can't fault him, he tried. Even put several hours of prep into it before hand, to smooth it out.

Before

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After

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Other stuff going in

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$500 doesn't buy much in the quality paint scene these days. The color I chose is up to $880 a gallon. I bought it a year ago for $600 a gallon. This is 2 quarts of jet black, 1 quart of black primer, and 1 gallon of clear, and the catalysts to go with them

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Rodknock

12-31-2020, 09:30 PM

Got just a little bit more done before I got called to work. Was expecting to do more, but a plumbing leak at home, and getting called to work 11 hours earlier than expected, sorta changed things.
Got the third member installed into the housing, and got it all bolted up. Started installing the stub shafts, but that's as far as I got. I realized, after moving 3 different times, since I bought all this stuff, I am missing some hardware.
Don't have a brake caliper mounting bolts. Not sure what happened with those, so I'll have to find some.

Tried putting that heavy ass iron third member in with the housing in place...that's a negative ghost rider

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This'll work

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There it is

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Just swing it up into place

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- - - Updated - - -

For those contemplating a Heidt's setup, some of their stuff is kinda quirky. For instance, the front aluminum hubs are Willwood, and take a 1/2" wheel stud, but the rear hubs, are apparently Corvette hubs and have a 12mm wheel stud. Had to spend $100 for 10 new wheel studs from ARP. These are specific for converting C5 hubs to SAE 1/2" studs. Just drill out the hole with a 1/2" drill, and good to go.
Don't make fun of my spark plug socket on the press. As soon as the stud bottomed, I stopped. It was the perfect fit for what I needed to do. :)

Get out the BFH

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I made sure the table was level with the drill head. Don't want it to be angled

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Don't laugh, it worked

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Rodknock

12-31-2020, 09:34 PM

Assembled more of the rear suspension stuff. Waiting on some Grade 8 fasteners to come in. Heidt's supplies Grade 5, which I'm sure is sufficient, but I like the pretty gold color of Grade 8 :lmao:

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Almost time for wheel measuring!!345's babay!!

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- - - Updated - - -

Buttoned up the rear suspension stuff, and took the car off the rotisserie, for the last time...maybe
Straightened and cleaned the garage a little. Time to strip the doors to bare metal, and get everything hung, and body worked.

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Rodknock

12-31-2020, 09:36 PM

This is a pretty neat, but not cheap tool, to figure out wheel size, backspacing, width, etc. Made by a gentleman named Mike Keller, who owns a company named Verified Fabrication. It is a very well made and thought out design. The tires (when I get them) actually mounts to it, and you can move your suspension through it's travel, with wheel turned (up front) and see where you might have clearance issues. I figure a $400 tool is a lot cheaper than $2000 wheels I can't use, if I got the measurements wrong. :rolleyes:

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This was the only issue I ran in to with the tool. Of course it's not designed necessarily to use with the IRS suspension. I called mike, and he told me the tool is thicker in that area for strength to hold the tire, which is what I thought. So I can roughly take away about 5/8" from the thickness, and it should be good to go with 19" wheels. If I set the slides to 20" wheels it clears, but I don't want 20's and rubber band tires..lol

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Rodknock

12-31-2020, 09:39 PM

Wheel selection. Harder to decide than the color I chose!!!
The first pics are the wheel style I initially wanted (not the color), but have since changed. I'm pretty much going to stick with polished outer and brushed centers, but might go with the Royal Gold center (last pic), but not sure yet.

I'M OPEN TO OPINIONS!!!!

Old first choice

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New first choice

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Second choice

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Third choice. I do kinda like the deep dish look though

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Color options for the center section

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And the Royal Gold color I mentioned earlier, but not this style of wheel

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Rodknock

12-31-2020, 09:42 PM

My beefy rear meats came in on the 29th!!! They are definitely yuge compared to the stock 14" wheels. Looks like 12" wide rim and 6 3/4" B.S. will be perfect!

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Time to play with the trick tool.

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Rodknock

12-31-2020, 09:47 PM

This post brings me up to date as of today. I have been way behind posting updates here. Doesn't seem to spark much interest on here anyway, but I'll try to keep it going.
Test fit #2. Re-mounted the doors back on the car. I'm going to pin the hinges this time around. Also need to fit the new Cowl hood, and Anvil parts, since I obtained all of these after the car was torn apart.
Was lucky enough to get a couple of days off of work to get a few things done, although most of my time was spent catching up on neglected chores around the house. Was really hoping to get more done on the car. I mounted the fenders today before work, but didn't get a chance to take pics.

Yes, the glass and the hardware are sitting in the door, to simulate the weight to make it hang properly.
I did find a little rust in the driver door, but it was easily repaired.
Just goes to show what can be hiding under a primered or painted car, when you buy it. :ripped:

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Vimes

12-31-2020, 09:52 PM

jamminj007

01-01-2021, 06:52 AM

Rodknock

01-01-2021, 06:58 AM

Looks great. I don't normally care for green but that's an interesting one. The only two issues I see are, that fuel filler looks pretty tight on that trunk floor. The tank WILL move in relation to the body as you go down the road, so that could be a wear area if there's not enough clearance. The second issue is the rear brakes being on the pumpkin side of the shaft instead of the wheel side. I know it means less unsprung weight, but if you snap an axle shaft that wheel no longer has brakes. Slamming on the brakes will mean half the car will have considerably more braking power than the other, which might cause you to lose control in an emergency.

Thanks. Generally, I'm not a big fan of green either. The car is originally Rally Green, which I almost went with, till I found this one. I just didn't want to have a red, blue, black, or any of the other common colors.

Easy enough to make the hole larger. Thank you for the insight on that!!

Not sure how many Heidt's setups are out there. Wonder how many people have broken axles with their setup? I don't plan to put axle snapping power to the ground. It does have a posie unit, so I'm wondering if the braking power of both discs will now be transferred to one wheel, just like as in a power situation.

Rodknock

01-01-2021, 07:03 AM

If I were you, I would HIGHLY reconsider the polished outer wheel with that design of wheel. Polishing that lip will be a biatch with a floating spoke. Trust me, me and my Brixton forged wheels have a love hate relationship. I LOVE how the look on my Vette, but I hate polishing those m'fers.

I'm going to go with this one instead. The deep dish look, just looks right on muscle cars. Polished/brushed combo, and SS hardware.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/01/NQRzPsz-1.jpg

Vimes

01-01-2021, 01:22 PM

It does have a posie unit, so I'm wondering if the braking power of both discs will now be transferred to one wheel, just like as in a power situation.

It would, and the effect would be to lock the still-connected rear wheel up, so you'd have one wheel locked and the other wheel free wheeling out back. Once one axle shaft goes, that wheel will never see braking again until the axle is replaced. The locked wheel will force the car's rear end to swing around unexpectedly. If you're good behind the wheel and know in advance what a snapped axle shaft will do to your braking you can probably drive your way out of it without losing it, but I wouldn't let anyone else drive it hard unless you know them to be a good driver.

Rodknock

01-01-2021, 05:40 PM

It would, and the effect would be to lock the still-connected rear wheel up, so you'd have one wheel locked and the other wheel free wheeling out back. Once one axle shaft goes, that wheel will never see braking again until the axle is replaced. The locked wheel will force the car's rear end to swing around unexpectedly. If you're good behind the wheel and know in advance what a snapped axle shaft will do to your braking you can probably drive your way out of it without losing it, but I wouldn't let anyone else drive it hard unless you know them to be a good driver.

Heidt's rates the axles at 750 HP. I'm sure that's a conservative rating. I won't be pushing that much power, and I'll never put slicks on it.
Have you heard of these setups failing?

Vimes

01-02-2021, 12:57 PM

Heidt's specifically, no, but then I've not been looking. Half shafts in general, yes. The only reason I pointed it out is a broken half shaft in your case means the the rear brakes are messed up, which can cause a wipe-out in a situation that otherwise would just mean stopping. Nothing against IRS systems, I've run them before and like them a lot. I even strongly considered putting one into my current project which hopefully begins in April. The fact is though, an IRS has a lot of moving parts and where you have movement you can have failure. Nature of the beast, kind of thing.

Just be aware that if you hear a loud POP in the back, particularly in a corner, hard braking will be a bad idea. Ease into them instead to see what the car does. That's an impressive build you have, and I'd hate to see it messed up in a situation that otherwise wouldn't have done damage.

Rodknock

01-02-2021, 02:58 PM

Rodknock

01-02-2021, 03:09 PM

Got the fenders loosely installed. Funny how I bagged and tagged every nut, bolt, and shim, but it still ends up needing to be tweaked. They just never go back together the same way twice. I'm going to have to work the door gaps of the AMD fender on the passenger side, at the top along the curve, leading up towards the windshield. The angle of the curve in the panel is pretty far off from the curve of the door at the top. Also the door to fender gap at the very bottom of the door will need work. Not much though. It's more of an issue with the door, not the fender with that part.
Driver side has an OEM fender, so the gaps are fairly decent with that one. I just need to do some body work, and weld in the tab for the RS stuff, since it was a standard fender.

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slimjim

01-03-2021, 02:49 AM

Good choice of wheel IMO

Rodknock

01-03-2021, 01:43 PM

Good choice of wheel IMO

Thanks Jim!! I have a friend with that exact wheel, in the same color as the pic. They look good, but I'll do the polished lip and brushed natural centers for mine.

ICrombie

01-03-2021, 07:01 PM

67BrewserSS

01-03-2021, 07:22 PM

Great progress! What are you doing for drivetrain?

Rodknock

01-04-2021, 05:44 PM

Very nice project you have going here, I'm very close to start mocking up wheels for backspacing and was thinking of getting that same tool (I also have an IRS, albeit a C5 corvette so hopefully that won't cause too many issues with the control arms). How much space did you allow yourself on either side of the tire to inner fender lip & wheel well?

Also looking forward to how you like the BC Forged wheels, I see a lot of guys over at corvetteforum are happy with them and was leaning towards their monoblock RZ05 in brushed bronze.

Thank you.

There's maybe 3/8" of room on each side. I will have to trim the lip on the driver side, just slightly I think. The tire barely hits it at full upward travel, and to be honest, it might not hit at all. I had the coil over removed, and moved it up into the wheel well till the suspension arm hit the frame. In reality it would likely never travel that far up.

I hope I like the wheels. I've never purchased high end wheels before, so this will be a first.:rolleyes:

Great progress! What are you doing for drivetrain?

Thank you. I have a 6.0L at home. Going twin turbo and 4L80E