How to connect AN lines to heatercore?

[Camaro_Dan]

Well, I saw the pictures of Yodys car, and thought I would like to have AN lines to and from the heater core. But HOW would I connect them?



I'm building my own heaterbox for the blowermotor in Aluminum and would like to have welded bungs for AN-10 fittings on it. Another option would be to fit two bulkhead fittings in the box, but still, HOW would I connect them to the heatercore? I would like to have the original AC heatercore hose fittings cut down, so they don't stick out of the box like it would on an American Grafitti box. and then maybe put the AN fittings more over to the center of the car for easy access instead of far right as the original hose fittings are located.

Any Ideas?

Thanks
/Dan from Sweden.

[Camaro_Dan]

anyone?

[Matt@RFR]

You'll probably have to have weld bungs brazed on. Any welding done in proximity to existing brazed joints could melt the brazing and create a leak.

[Camaro_Dan]

Thanks, I found a way I think. Im going to put 90deg elbows with hose between the heatercore and the elbow, then a hose from the elbow to a 90deg socketless AN 10 fitting, and then it goes on to a AN 10 Weldbung located more over to the center of the car. and then on the other side of the "lid" there is another weld bung, I did not want to use bulkhead connectors, I want it welded, its just soooo good looking :D

I think it will work

[Matt@RFR]

If I'm understanding this correctly, your heater core will be enclosed in a box, correct? The only thing I see that will need attention with all those fittings hidden in a box is that you have big drain holes in the bottom, so if any of those fittings/hoses springs a leak, it will be obvious, instead of partially filling up the box before it leaks out. Otherwise, I think your solution would be the most simple.

[Camaro_Dan]

No I'm building my own box for the blowermotor, the heatercore will still be inside the firewall, but I will cut the top tube of the heatercore, and both tubes will be rerouted via 90deg elbows to the weld bungs further off to the center.
The box will have a lid for easy access to the fittings and such. Also I will make a hole in the box at its lowest level so if it springs a leak it will flow out instead of in to the hole where the heatercore is located.

[Matt@RFR]

Sounds good to me.

[70 LS1]

Any new info on this. I am also wanting to add AN fittings to the heater core, but can't find any that will work. I am leary of brazing them on, but there is a local shop that could do it if I can't find anything better.

I know Russell makes hard tube adapters for smaller diameter, but nothing I am aware of for 5/8" or 3/4".

[parsonsj]

Can you get a flaring tool on the heater core nipples? If so, you could put tube sleeves and nuts on and flare to 37 (AN), and go from there.

jp

[CarlC]

John, that's probably the best way to go.

I thought about the weld/braze/sodier on, but there is not sufficient room on 1st-gen A/C - American Grafitti lower hose to allow for all the necessary hardware to fit.

If going your way, likely the best way would be to bench flare some tube and have them sodiered onto the core. Usually replacement core input/output tubes are pretty beat up.

If the copper tubes were set up to come through the firewall similar to stock it might be wise to find a way to support the ends. AN lines are heavier and usually don't flex as easily as a rubber hose, and that could lead to tube failure.

[David Pozzi]

If the copper tubes were set up to come through the firewall similar to stock it might be wise to find a way to support the ends. AN lines are heavier and usually don't flex as easily as a rubber hose, and that could lead to tube failure.

I think this could be a BIG problem! heater cores are very very fragile and are not designed to have stiff hoses attached to them.

[parsonsj]

Soldering flared ends on sounds like the way to go. And yes, I'm with you guys: I'd make an aluminum brace/girdle that wraps around the hose nipples for some support. Though it does seem the weight of the water in the hoses is probably the bulk of the weight anyway. The difference between AN and stock rubber hose is likely small compared to the water weight.

Maybe the new Holley (Earl's) lite hose (cool-looking in black) could provide some insurance in case it is a problem.

jp