68 Camaro Build with Gen V Motor Swap

[jasonz28camaro]

Hello,

I wanted to share my build thread here with you guys, I started it on ls1tech since I have been using them for info since day one. I find myself frequenting this site more and more as you are more responsive to questions I have so maybe you can chime in if you see me doing something wrong or assist if I have any questions.

My build is about having a modern driving car with the latest and greatest drivetrain parts at a reasonable price, new and used parts will be used to keep the cost down. I also planned on doing just about everything myself to keep the cost down but I ran into a lack of free time problem and had a shop do some fab work (that I regret) for me to speed things up. I planned on having it running by this spring but that aint happening, maybe by the fall?

Here's a link to ls1tech if you would like to see my progress and I'll pickup here where I left off. https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1909325-68-camaro-build-gen-v-swap.html

[jasonz28camaro]

Now that I have stuck the motor in and out I figure it will be the last time I stick it in so I decided to test the fitment of the trans inside the raised tunnel. Of course, as I finished sticking it in I remembered wanting to shave down the power steering box a little to clear the headers as mentioned when test fitting them. I might be able to keep the motor in there while I do it we'll see.

Here are some pics of me sticking it in there trying not to dent the firewall. Speaking of firewall, I took off the cowl vent and hammered out the remaining dents and put a little filler and smoothed it out some. Came out nice, not perfect but easy on the eyes haha.

Trans has plenty of room in the tunnel and the ground clearance is good. I have not seen the trans pan on the car version of this 10 speed but the truck version's pan is not deep in my opinion. The trans is currently sitting on the stock crossmember and a 2x4. The crossmember was moved a few inches back by the previous owner to run the 700r4. I planed on using the same corssmember in the original position with a little cutting and welding to get it where I need it to be.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/03/IMG_3720_zps3wwxuko6-1.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/jasonz28camaro95/media/68%20camaro/Motor/IMG_3720_zps3wwxuko6.jpg.html)
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[jasonz28camaro]

I ended up hacking up my stock crossmember (saw someone else do the same) and offset it a few inches back to accept the new trans. The height was not changed, only the rearward position. I had some 1/8" plate laying around and this is what the stock crossmember is made from. It crossmember is very solid but the weight of the trans worries me a little for some reason. I think I'm going to stiffen it up a bit and clean up some of the tall edges that kiss the floor a little. I placed a spacer between the crossmember and mount so I could drop it a little if needed to get the angle corrected once the car is together. I also have quite a bit of room to raise the trans if needed too.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/03/C2BA2D1D0FA048AA8232907391A2C3FA_zpsncqi-1.jpeg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/jasonz28camaro95/media/C2BA2D1D-0FA0-48AA-8232-907391A2C3FA_zpsncqiwhfm.jpeg.html)
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[jasonz28camaro]

I've got a little done since I last posted but I've been busy with life. I decided to clean off all the old Dynamat and coat the floor just to make sure no rust comes back. I planned on not using Dynamat anymore due to it possibly being the reason the pans rusted? Might not be the reason but the car had leaks and the mat held some water in the trunk. This stuff sucks taking it off and the only way was with a heat gun then a wire wheel along with elbow grease.
I also finally opened up my fuel tank box and put a coat of paint on the fuel tank. Its installed now but not fully buttoned down.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/05/IMG_0116_zps9gow7h2d-1.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/jasonz28camaro95/media/68%20camaro/IMG_0116_zps9gow7h2d.jpg.html)
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- - - Updated - - -

I also received my ICTBillet power steering pump bracket and installed it. Due to my position of the motor this bracket hits my a-arm and will not work for me. Like most things with this car plans have now changed. I'll be returning the PS bracket and going another direction with my setup. I have found a replacement accessory drive from Drive Junky that is pretty nice, it keeps the water pump so thats cool but I cannot use my factory compressor or vacuum pump. I should get the new drive installed in the next couple of weeks.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/05/IMG_0046_zpsramrb85t-1.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/jasonz28camaro95/media/68%20camaro/Motor/IMG_0046_zpsramrb85t.jpg.html)
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[jasonz28camaro]

Got my headers installed! I ended up needing to massage the steering box and one of the tubes slightly to get them to fit due to the motors position in the car. These headers fit tight against the motor as advertised, this presents a small issue with the new Holley trans crossmember I'm installing. The PS header does not line up with the exhaust relief cutouts on the crossmember. Easy fix, just need to rout the exhaust over a bit, I post some photos of this later on. Another issue was the DS header flange had an issue sitting flush on the head, it seemed to be bulged out a hair in the center, hopefully the gasket and bolt torque will account for the misalignment issue. If you hold a straight edge across the header flange its off by a few thousandths in the center. PS header also clears the factory starter heat shield so thats kind of cool.

Also got the intake manifold installed and purchased the engine covers. I'm missing the studs to mount them but one of the guys on Corvetteforum was nice enough to send me his old studs for free as long as I covered the shipping.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/05/IMG_0054_zpsfxzc6u5z-1.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/jasonz28camaro95/media/68%20camaro/Motor/IMG_0054_zpsfxzc6u5z.jpg.html)
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[jasonz28camaro]

I ended up changing my mind about my hackjob crossmember I made and figured I would purchase a Holley crossmember and hack it up instead. I found a post on ls1tech where a guy used a T56 crossmember to install his 6l90 so I figure this would be a good starting point.

Sorry for the lack of photos, I away from the car but I'll get photos of the crossmember installed later on.

Here are a few pics of what needed to be done on order to make it fit. I had to cut out some of the diagonal gussets to clear the pan and then I had to lift the mounting position roughly 2" high and 3/4" forward to bold up to my trans witht he trans sitting at 3 degrees. Also reinstalled the diagonal gusset plate off to the side to maybe help keep strength.

It ended up working out great and is way stronger than my hackjob crossmember. I did not want to risk hitting a big bump and the stock crossmember bend and screw things up so this should help that not happen.

In order to lift the mounting point and move it forward I just used some leftover Ridtech axle tube tabs from my 4-link kit and the plate with the mounting holes came with the crossmember, I guess it might be a spacer?
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/05/IMG_0332_zpsx5csm0o5-1.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/jasonz28camaro95/media/68%20camaro/Motor/IMG_0332_zpsx5csm0o5.jpg.html)
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[Motown 454]

I've been watching your progress over there, nice to see it here. Great project.

[jasonz28camaro]

Here are the photos of the trans crossmember installed. As you can see the PS header is tucked in real close and does not line up with the crossmember exhaust relief.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/06/IMG_0485_zpskmdbgovj-1.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/jasonz28camaro95/media/68%20camaro/IMG_0485_zpskmdbgovj.jpg.html)
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[jasonz28camaro]

I decided to redo all the wiring and chose the American Auto Wire Classic Update kit. This thing is very cool and user friendly, the guys at AAW have great customer srevice, I called an asked a few questions and they were very knowledgeable and helped me out.

I started with the dash area and then worked to the back of the car. I did not finish wiring up the neutral safety switch, backup lights or the vintage air system yet. My engine harness will come with an extra module that should control the reverse lights and it is also equipped with a neutral safety output that I'll wire in later once I get my engine harness.

I then went to the engine bay and started on the engine harness and front lights. Turns out with a newer motor you dont really use many of the engine related wires or at least I did not. The kit is cool though, it comes wires prewired for an ECM mounted in the engine bay so you can just wire this right up to your swap harness and roll with it. I have installed my main power junction stud directly below the break booster to keep it kind of hided. This stud will supply power to most of the car. After I got the stud installed I slapped the front fenders back on for the front wire fitment.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/06/IMG_0376_zpskbvuzkfs-1.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/jasonz28camaro95/media/68%20camaro/Electrical/IMG_0376_zpskbvuzkfs.jpg.html)
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[jasonz28camaro]

Heres a few photos of the front lighting and wiper motor wiring. I also ran the AAW ECM wiring similar to the front lights, everything is located behind the fender out of the way or under the core support, ended up looking pretty cool.

I also hooked up my power wire from my alternator to the main junction stud and back to the battery to charge it. I ran a remote solenoid like others do as a safety feature with the main power wire, its only hot when its cranked. Heres some photos of the trunk mounted battery and how I ran the wire to the starter. The charge wire and solenoid wire are ran down the DS of the car. This setup is pretty common and is similar to Mad Electrical's and the sticky on this site.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/06/IMG_0590_zpswkmcnpah-1.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/jasonz28camaro95/media/68%20camaro/Electrical/IMG_0590_zpswkmcnpah.jpg.html)
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[jasonz28camaro]

I got my new Drive Junky accessory drive in and installed it. Heres a few pictures of it as I installed it. Came with great instructions and all the parts are top notch!

I had originally tried to use the ICTbillet PS bracket and purchased a GM pump and reservoir to use with it but the bracket did not fit. I'm left with an extra pump if anyone needs one? I ended using the reservoir and modified the bracket to fit my water pump. I'll run the PS lines in a couple weeks. Kink of sucks that I mounted my battery in the trunk already, looks like I have enough room to mount it behind this mini Sanden compressor where I notch my frame for the stock compressor..

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[jasonz28camaro]

I spoke to my harness builder/tuner and he suggested I use a PWM fan from a 6th gen camaro. The PWM fan is the easiest fan to setup and works well with the gen v stuff. From what I have read the ECM does not send out a reliable signal for a relay to activate traditional fans and the signal sent out is a pulsed signal. The best way to run traditional fans is with a temp sensor and a trinary if using AC.



I was unable to find a 6th gen camaro fan for a reasonable price so I went with a C7 fan. Truck fans are also an option but they are a little too wide for my car. I spoke to Spal and they do not sell a shroud for this fan to so I ended up using the shroud that came with the fan. In order to use this shroud I had to cut off about 3/4" of the outside rim to let the fan sit closer to the radiator and make room for my intake. Added some rubber hose sliced down the middle to help get a better seal against the radiator. I also had to trim a little off around the fan blades to clear my intake piping. The fan assembly exposes a little bit of the radiator at the top, this should not be an issue as the C7 vetts have a ton of exposed area on their setups too. I used 4 ziptie style radiator fan hold downs to mount the assembly but I might add more reinforcement later.



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[jasonz28camaro]

I started working on the AC lines at this point. I purchased a VA kit that would hide my lines behind the fender. Got the wiring all done up and integrated it into my AAW harness. Still need to wire up the compressor wiring once I get my engine harness. BPautomotive hooked me up with the correct fittings to run the GM pressure switch and this was installed as well. Heres some photos of the process, it was not fun and there is very little room for the AC fan with the raised tunnel. Got everything all sealed up from water with some leftover house window sealant. Also had to be very careful with the compress fittings and rout them the best I could to have room to install the high and low pressure AC fittings on them when its time to charge the system due to the a-arm clearance but it worked out and tested fine.



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[jasonz28camaro]

I started working on the AC lines at this point. I purchased a VA kit that would hide my lines behind the fender. Got the wiring all done up and integrated it into my AAW harness. Still need to wire up the compressor wiring once I get my engine harness. BPautomotive hooked me up with the correct fittings to run the GM pressure switch and this was installed as well. Heres some photos of the process, it was not fun and there is very little room for the AC fan with the raised tunnel. Got everything all sealed up from water with some leftover house window sealant. Also had to be very careful with the compress fittings and rout them the best I could to have room to install the high and low pressure AC fittings on them when its time to charge the system due to the a-arm clearance but it worked out and tested fine.



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[CSG]

I am wanting to run the lines through the firewall in that same location. When you ordered the kit from VA what exactly did you order different from the "normal" setup?

[Rich G]

very nice build. I was looking at swapping a 2016 lt engine and 6 speed trans into my brothers 84 Grand Prix , but after checking into things there doesn't seem to be many vendors out there that make swap stuff for these engines yet and everything is very expensive. Just curious do you have a round about figure on what this swap is going to add up to not including the motor and trans. thanks for any input.

[jasonz28camaro]

I am wanting to run the lines through the firewall in that same location. When you ordered the kit from VA what exactly did you order different from the "normal" setup?

The "normal" setup I had was just outdated, checkout my old setup with the BBC in it and checkout the AC line location. The newer camaro setups come with the lines routed like I just did and are hidden. The kit I purchased was a VA kit PN 526660. I also had to order another hardline that comes off the dryer, in my photos you can see it looks newer than the other dryer line. Only reason was that it was longer and I needed it shorter.

[jasonz28camaro]

It will cost just about the same as a LS swap. All depends on how much you want to throw at it. You can do it cheap and good like me or cheap or real fancy.
Harness rework or new and tune $1000-$2000
Accessories $600-$3000
Fuel system $$200 -$1000
Driveshaft $300 or so
Gauges $30 (iphone app)-$800
Miscilanious stuff $500-$1000+ it adds up quick
Labor $$$ priceless
to name a few... I'm just kind of throwing out prices.

[jasonz28camaro]

I installed the power steering lines with earls hose and fittings on the high side and some push on barb AN fittings on the low side. I did not purchase enough hp hose so its not as hidden as I'd like but it will work.

Also go the fuel line installed and the low pressure sensor.

I started building the air intake out of some 4" 90 degree aluminum tubing I had sitting around and cut it to fit. I cant for the life of me figure out what is going on with my welder weather its a gas leak or bad part but I could barley weld this stuff. I had little to no penetration (not a big deal with no boost), ark was all over the place etc... I adjusted the balance in every single position imaginable, cleaned the parts/filler rods to the extreme and no matter what it was not having it. I'm going to figure out whats going on at some point and then install a small bracket on the intake tube to hold brace it on the radiator core support I think. I welded the MAF bung and two 1/2 barbed nipples (not in photo) on the bottom of the intake to hide them. The nipples will vent/pull crank case pressure from the valve covers. I got a filter on the way and I'll get it installed next week.
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[minendrews68]

I ended up changing my mind about my hackjob crossmember I made and figured I would purchase a Holley crossmember and hack it up instead. I found a post on ls1tech where a guy used a T56 crossmember to install his 6l90 so I figure this would be a good starting point.

Sorry for the lack of photos, I away from the car but I'll get photos of the crossmember installed later on.

Here are a few pics of what needed to be done on order to make it fit. I had to cut out some of the diagonal gussets to clear the pan and then I had to lift the mounting position roughly 2" high and 3/4" forward to bold up to my trans witht he trans sitting at 3 degrees. Also reinstalled the diagonal gusset plate off to the side to maybe help keep strength.

It ended up working out great and is way stronger than my hackjob crossmember. I did not want to risk hitting a big bump and the stock crossmember bend and screw things up so this should help that not happen.

In order to lift the mounting point and move it forward I just used some leftover Ridtech axle tube tabs from my 4-link kit and the plate with the mounting holes came with the crossmember, I guess it might be a spacer?
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I used the same one and had to redo it to my car. Here's a pic of what I had to do..
https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/117369-T-56-Early-Camaro-Trans-Swap?highlight=

[jasonz28camaro]

I was able to do a little more troubleshooting on my welding machine. Turns out the flow meter was way off, I purchased an external flow gauge to find out. It requires roughly twice as much air to achieve the correct CFH. With running the machine in DC you dont notice it as much but while in AC on aluminum it was horrible. Below is a picture of the 1/2" bungs I welded on the bottom of the intake, they were very rough and I cleaned them up a hair after the machine was operating normal again. Also laid down some SS welds to see if they would be better than before with the correct CFH and they look a little better than before. Did a little practice without a back purge on some 304 tubing to do a little practice for my upcoming exhaust build I'll be doing soon. If you are unaware, you need a purge or flux to protect the back side of the stainless welds from oxygen due to the stainless being reactive while welding, it will look like crap as seen in the photo below.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/07/IMG_1290_zpsmlwt0fmj-1.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/jasonz28camaro95/media/68%20camaro/Motor/IMG_1290_zpsmlwt0fmj.jpg.html)
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[jasonz28camaro]

I got a driveshaft ordered from Inland Empire and it looks pretty nice. The customer service was great and they helped me to get the correct yoke for the 10-speed. I had a brain fart though... I ordered the driveshaft with a 1350 series u-joint for my rearend because I was 100% sure thats what I was running. Turns out I had the 1330 series pinion yoke installed. Ended up purchasing a 1350 pinion yoke to solve the problem. Now I have two extra pinion yokes if someone wants one since Curry sent me the incorrect 1310 yoke initially and now I have the extra 1330 yoke.



I was able to install the lower radiator hose too, I just used some 1.75" SS tubing and silicone elbows to connect it. I'll be working on the upper hose in the next few weeks. What I have now does not look very appealing so I'll use more SS tubing to match the lower section.



I'm always learning and I have never really made custom lines for power steering so this was a learning experience. Turns out that you cannot use leftover 5/8" heater hose for the power steering reservoir feed hose. The hose looks like it is sweating fluid out of it, the fluid just ate its way through the hose. I purchased some actual PS hose and swapped it out. This had me question the return line coming off the steering box to the reservoir. This was also leftover hose from the fuel system and from what I was reading fuel hose cannot be used either. I contacted the manufacture of the hose and they said it will be fine as long as its on the lower pressure side as the hose is rated for PS fluid.



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/08/IMG_1311_zpssv1qcljk-1.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/jasonz28camaro95/media/68%20camaro/Motor/IMG_1311_zpssv1qcljk.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/08/IMG_1312_zpsuftowp51-1.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/jasonz28camaro95/media/68%20camaro/Motor/IMG_1312_zpsuftowp51.jpg.html)
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https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/08/IMG_1321_zpsblx3l6zj-1.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/jasonz28camaro95/media/68%20camaro/Motor/IMG_1321_zpsblx3l6zj.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/08/IMG_1319_zpsqog9lm1l-1.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/jasonz28camaro95/media/68%20camaro/Motor/IMG_1319_zpsqog9lm1l.jpg.html)

[jasonz28camaro]

Here's a few pictures of the engine bay after I fixed the PS line and installed the air filter. I also ran the trans lines to the radiator but did not like how it turned out, I could not get a tight enough 90 degree bend to clear the intake. I ordered a tight radius 90 and I'm planning on changing this once I get the new part. Got the new rear brake line installed and hooked up the ebrakes, just need to bleed the brakes and adjust the ebrakes accordingly.



Just waiting on the engine harness and I'll be starting the exhaust in then next few weeks. Maybe a few other little things left and then I'll be able to start it.



https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/08/IMG_1352_zpskapanzfy-1.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/jasonz28camaro95/media/68%20camaro/Motor/IMG_1352_zpskapanzfy.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/08/IMG_1351_zps2zuckioe-1.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/jasonz28camaro95/media/68%20camaro/Motor/IMG_1351_zps2zuckioe.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/08/IMG_1353_zps6cmmfyer-1.jpg (http://s151.photobucket.com/user/jasonz28camaro95/media/68%20camaro/Motor/IMG_1353_zps6cmmfyer.jpg.html)

[jasonz28camaro]

I got some 1.5" 304 tubing to build my upper radiator hose rather than use what you have seen in the previous photos. It only took about an hour or so and looks a lot better to cut up a U bend and make a few welds. I also incorporated a 1/4" tube to be used as the steam port. The 1/4" tube runs through the 1/5" tube and is extended in enough so it hits the high point of the system. These parts and a few couplers and t-bolt clams made it all fit nicely.

I have also changed the trans cooler line fitting at the radiator to make for a cleaner look.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/09/YJODqWy-1.jpg
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[c4racer2]

nice progress!

[jasonz28camaro]

I shopped around for an exhaust system for a little while looking for a good system to fit the Ridtech rear and just couldnt find it. One way or another it would need to be adjusted to fit my needs with the rear and the headers. Price was another concern, the cheaper ones came in 409ss and I preferred getting a kit with 309ss if I was to spend over $600. I ended up buying a 3" 304ss builder kit from speed engineering and Borla PorXS mufflers, also 304ss. The total cost was $350 plus blood sweat and tears. It was a little time consuming TIG welding and back purging everything but it ended up turning out pretty nice, better than I thought actually. Nothing like building something yourself!

The builder kit came in slip fit and I opted for slip fit on the mufflers too, this made things a little easier for fitting. For the most part I had to stick it in place and clamp it, then weld it. I started bu hanging the mufflers and used some scrap .065" wall 3/8" ss tubing as the hangers, much cheaper and lighter if it matters than 3/8" solid $10 a piece ss bar hangers and they are surely capable of doing their job.

I first hung the header, got the angle right to ovoid hitting he rear center section. I then fitted the x-pipe front section to the headers and tacked my Ultimate Headers low profile flanges on. If any of you purchase these low profile flanges you need to get a good quality fastener. The one that came with it from Ultamate Headers is a nice ARP flanged SS bolt and a non-SS nut of lesser quality. The first attempt to tighten everything lead to the nut galling up on both clamps and I had to cut both of the nice ARP bolts to release the clamps. I ended up going to the hardware store and purchasing some matching Grade 8 fasteners and they worked out great taking them on and off a few times. Ultimate headers offered to send out replacements but I did not want to wait. After a lot of cutting and welding I was done, I added a little bit of tension to the to the rear hangers to keep the system nice and sturdy. Like I mentioned a while back, the PS header is tucked in real close and the crossmember did not line up good so I cut off about 1/8" of the crossmembers exhaust relief to make room rather than making more cuts and welds on the exhaust.

For now I dumped the exhaust before rear and it may stay like this forever or I might change it to go under the axle and exit out the rear if I don't like the sound.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/09/9jUD5jE-1.jpg
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[DWC]

That came out really nice.

Daniel

[jasonz28camaro]

Thanks!

[jasonz28camaro]

Its been a while but I got my engine harness and fan plug in so I started getting everything fitted. The harness looks good and functions as well. The harness is like others and just requires a battery power, ignition and crank wire to get going, all else is plug and play. It also has a brake signal it needs, not sure is others need this but its requred for me. For this I used my 3rd brake light wire for this as I do not have one and the AAW came with one. Here's some photos of the process.

Wiring up the fan is easy, it has a PMW trigger wire, power and ground. The harness has the PWM wire labeled and you just have to crimp it and go. The harness builder recommended I add a fuse to protect the fan and I did so. The power is coming right off the alternator.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/01/8uWZkyk-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/01/sGJlX6G-1.jpg

I removed the DS finder and ran all the wiring through there and hide them. The PWM fuel harness also traveled along the bottom of the car following the brake line to the low pressure sensor and fuel pump in the tank. The TCM is located on the DS side cowl and the ECM is mounted next to the radiator. The interior harness containing the OBDII port and pedal has been ran through the side cowl, the harness also includes a plug for the additional module for tapshift and what not but I do not have that yet.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/01/FAdScWS-1.jpg
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https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/01/bvgEj2Y-1.jpg

I created a couple of brackets to hold the ECM and fuse box using the factor ECM holder and some aluminum scrap I had laying around. Everything tucked in nicely in the corner of the engine bay and hidden behind the DS fender.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/01/edKnvpq-1.jpg
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[Snowcatter]

That brake input needs to be hooked up to a dual output brake switch. It needs +12V applied when the brake is released. It controls your TC lockup and needs to be de-energized when the brake is pressed. Opposite of brake lights.

[jasonz28camaro]

That brake input needs to be hooked up to a dual output brake switch. It needs +12V applied when the brake is released. It controls your TC lockup and needs to be de-energized when the brake is pressed. Opposite of brake lights.

Well according to the instructions is needs the opposite of what you are saying, maybe its wired differently. I'll get with the harness builder to confirm.

https://www.swaptimeusa.com/downloads-and-instructions.html

[Snowcatter]

If it is TCC input then it needs to be de-energized when brakes are applied. The TCC is torque converter control, when 12V is applied it locks the TC and needs to unlock when brakes are applied. If it needs opposite then it is not the TCC wire. I do LS swaps and this is important to be done correctly to keep your transmission happy. Definitely verify with your harness builder and good luck with your build.

[jasonz28camaro]

how would the car act if it was wired incorrectly? I have drove it and it seems fine but there are some torque management issues in the tune and the throttle is only at 70% at WOT. Was at 60% but he sent me a new tune and it opened a little more, just trying to get it dialed in at this point. I believe 80% is where I want to be?

[Snowcatter]

You actually won't notice much other than possibly odd shift points sometimes. Short trips won't show any symptoms, but your transmission will overheat due to TC not being locked up.

[dhutton]

If it is TCC input then it needs to be de-energized when brakes are applied. The TCC is torque converter control, when 12V is applied it locks the TC and needs to unlock when brakes are applied. If it needs opposite then it is not the TCC wire. I do LS swaps and this is important to be done correctly to keep your transmission happy. Definitely verify with your harness builder and good luck with your build.

Don’t be so sure of that. Early LS are like that but not the later ones. Most are now the same as the brake light....

Here’s an example

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1lM6dOvFo7UAOCc5IVFY1VOUpfD2ZVp6CmZW51HIMEHc/edit


Bottom line is do your homework and listen to your harness/ECM supplier.

Don

[Snowcatter]

That is good to know...2010 is the newest swap I have done with a standalone harness...be nice to know what year they changed the TCC control method. The 2013 I'm doing right now is a full factory ECM and harness with manual trans so no TCC. But all that aside my point here was to advise the OP to make sure on the TCC because he mentioned that he wasn't 100% sure on it. The harness builder is the only one who can give the final say. I am a member of a few LS swap groups and many people hook them up wrong.

[jasonz28camaro]

That is good to know...2010 is the newest swap I have done with a standalone harness...be nice to know what year they changed the TCC control method. The 2013 I'm doing right now is a full factory ECM and harness with manual trans so no TCC. But all that aside my point here was to advise the OP to make sure on the TCC because he mentioned that he wasn't 100% sure on it. The harness builder is the only one who can give the final say. I am a member of a few LS swap groups and many people hook them up wrong.

Yeah, the instructions and his youtube videos all list the brake wire to be hooked up to a 12v source when brakes are applied. I did also checkout speartechs instructions and it wants 12v when depressed. It all must have to do with how the harness is wired. On another subject my AC request goes to a module that needs to see a negative signal and then shoots it out to a positive 12v after a relay so maybe he just wires it up how he feels is the best way to make it all work together.

[jasonz28camaro]

Started right up after I chased down an electrical problem. Turns out my Ford solenoid did not like being mounted to my plastic battery box and needed a ground.



https://youtu.be/-klEING1eM0


https://youtu.be/H-f_xpgy1QM

[jasonz28camaro]

Here's a video of the car doing a pull from around 45mph. The trans tune has the car shifting at a little over 5000rpm, not sure if thats what these transmissions want or if its just because its on a tahoe tune at the moment. There are a few kinks to work out in the tune. The throttle is only opening 70%, its a little rich in areas and timing needs some adjustment.

This thing sounds so cool shifting through all the gears and just keeps pulling. Cant wait to get it all dialed in and better tires.

Also, I never mentioned the shifter. Its a Lokar sport shifter. It has a low gear that allows the shifter to slide over and perform tapshift functions by pushing it forward or back.


https://youtu.be/JBOmvJfp0-g

[jasonz28camaro]

Here's a video of the car doing a pull from around 45mph. The trans tune has the car shifting at a little over 5000rpm, not sure if thats what these transmissions want or if its just because its on a tahoe tune at the moment. There are a few kinks to work out in the tune. The throttle is only opening 70%, its a little rich in areas and timing needs some adjustment.

This thing sounds so cool shifting through all the gears and just keeps pulling. Cant wait to get it all dialed in and better tires.

Also, I never mentioned the shifter. Its a Lokar sport shifter. It has a low gear that allows the shifter to slide over and perform tapshift functions by pushing it forward or back.


https://youtu.be/JBOmvJfp0-g

[Smooth67]

Nice work, thanks for including the wire routing pics, those will help! Liking the exhaust too!

[jasonz28camaro]

I purchased Ridetech upper and lower control arms with coilovers then got them installed. The ride height came out good and it seems to handle very well.

I tried to get the ride height lowered in the back and found that one area of corrosion that I could not see from inside the car where the inner wheel well is welded to the quarter. I believe this is the last of the rust, everything else was visible inside and out of the car when it was taken apart. The previous owner did a good job hiding the corrosion but of course I found it. I purchased some new repair patches and butt welded them in. I had access to both sides of the weld so I was able to dress both sides and its a seamless repair now. Here's a few pics.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/06/3UDMJAp-1.jpg
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[jamminj007]

Car is looking good man! First time seeing your build thread. Are you back in town?

[jasonz28camaro]

Thanks! Not yet, these pictures are form a few weeks ago. Should be back before the 6th but it could change. I'm wanting to get some paint on the car sooner than later so I can get it stripped down and make sure there are no other problem areas that pop up. I'm pretty sure I got them all, only area of concern would be around the front and rear glass but I'd imagine it would not be too extensive and easy to repair if there are any issues.

I pulled the TCM the other day before I left and my wife just sent it to hptuners to be unlocked so hopefully I get that back around the time I get home so I can start making adjustments.

[jasonz28camaro]

I haven't posted here in a while so I figured I'd give some updates. I made this center console a few months back with some MDF and vinal. Learned how to french seam and wrapped it. At some point I'll redo the lid, it turned out a little too puffy for my style but it sure is comfortable.
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[Jk918]

Consel turned out great

[SinisterSpeed]

That thing sounds killer shifting in the videos.
I agree with Jk918, the console turned out really good.

Keep up the great work!

[Motown 454]

I'm with Sinister, That does sound sweet!! Nice job on the console.