Pro Touring/Autocross 68 F100

[Frank ZX]

I thought I'd start a new thread on my truck. I completed the HRPT, and done a good bit of autocrossing this year.
This is my first year autocrossing and I absolutely love. I need alot more seat time but I did win 3 place in a autocross in the truck class.
Long story short, my truck handled fairly well with the boxed in chassis, truck arm rear and Crown Victoria front suspension but the geometry is less than desirable.
I talked to Rob at No Limit Engineering and we agreed his chassis will improve the handling greatly plus the body will be alot lower on the chassis.
It should be here next month around Christmas.
The engine is a Department of Boost GT450 supercharged 4.6 3 valve from a 2008 Mustang GT.
I've built a new short block with JE forged pistons, Manley H beam rods and a stock cast crankshaft all balanced.
The cast crankshaft is good for about 750hp.
I'm using all ARP hardware.
Department of Boost is about to send my new supercharger which is a modified TVS Gen2R.
I'll run around 20lbs of boost and estimating 700rwhp.
The transmission, well, that's the weak link. TR3650 that's remote shifted. I was using a Barton shifter that I modified the linkage.
I sold my old chassis to a friend and finished stripping the truck apart today.
Basically this is a new build. Some of you seen it before.
It's going to be better than ever.

- - - Updated - - -

The last picture is the engine before I took it all apart.

[Peter Mc Mahon]

Always like to see more trucks and can’t wait to see the No Limit chassis get in there. This is going to be good!

[Sbeck09]

Hell. Yeah. Brother.

Glad to see more Ford love too. Congrats on the podium finish. I'm anxious to see this new chassis.

What do you think is the primary geometry shortcoming with the CV front end?

[Frank ZX]

Hell. Yeah. Brother.

Glad to see more Ford love too. Congrats on the podium finish. I'm anxious to see this new chassis.

What do you think is the primary geometry shortcoming with the CV front end?
I honestly can't explain it all. One thing is the steering Ackerman.
Dont get me wrong, it works good but just not as well as a complete aftermarket chassis.
I've had a blast in the old truck.

[Frank ZX]

Here's a few pictures from this past year.

[Frank ZX]

Here's another picture.
Remember these were all how the truck was before last week.

[Frank ZX]

These are the headlight bezels and gauge cluster from Munssey Speed and Design going on my truck.
I've got 2 grills. One is a almost new reproduction grill and the other is decent.
I can't decide if I should hydrodip a grill in Carbon fiber to match the carbon fiber bezels or just paint it black or leave the polished grill in to accent the bezels?

[Project Bike Truck]

i just found you on Insta. Can not wait for the frame to get here.

[Sbeck09]

These are the headlight bezels and gauge cluster from Munssey Speed and Design going on my truck.
I've got 2 grills. One is a almost new reproduction grill and the other is decent.
I can't decide if I should hydrodip a grill in Carbon fiber to match the carbon fiber bezels or just paint it black or leave the polished grill in to accent the bezels?

Personally I'd go option 1 and hydro dip. My 69 had a brushed original grill and it looked amazing, but yours would stick out like a sore thumb without any other real polished items. Plus everyone loves murdered out hot rods.

[Frank ZX]

Here's a picture from this years HRPT.
And Here's some body work being done on the truck now. I removed the chrome drip rail and I'm filling in the metal underneath.
I'll post better picture of the cab soon.

[LuxurySportCoupe]

I've been following your instagram for a few months now, I can't wait to see more progress on this truck!

[RobNoLimit]

Great opener. We just got the new rail sides in. Bump side F100's are pretty new for us. After a few one-off builds, we revised and updated out rail files to make the chassis as strong, clean, and user friendly as we can. We are ALMOST as excited about this Project as you are. I'll send you som epicts to post as soon as we have some fabbed parts. Hope you had a great Thanksgiving with your family.

[Frank ZX]

That's great news Rob! Yes, please send me some pictures when you can. I've gone a little overboard again:)
My tires and clutch/brake pedal assembly should be here today. I'll have the cab painted in a few days but I'm going to have to wait on the fenders and bed til I get the tires mocked up on the chassis. I'm thinking I'll have to flair the fenders and besides slightly for 335 tires.
We had a good Thanksgiving. Hope yall did as well.

[Frank ZX]

Paint was very thin on the cab. I sprayed epoxy primer on the bare metal spots. I hate sanding this stuff.
I welded the cab seams so that created more filling.
Hopefully I'll get it to the 2k primer in the next day or 2.
I still have a little filler left after all this welding metal.
And UPS and FedEx are running very slow this time of year.
I was hoping to show off some cool parts. Lol

[Frank ZX]

Tires came today. 335/30 compared to 295/50.
I also ordered a TR6060 shifter from Red Roberts. Astro Performance tr6060 will be shipped tomorrow.
Red has a shifter that exits the transmission tunnel in the stock location but angled 2 inches towards me and 2.6 inches aft. I also ordered a beefy shifter handle made from some .400" chromoly.
I finally have one corner of the truck ready for....primer!!!
Seems one of the shipping companies had a accident(no names mentioned) and I have some parts delayed.
I'll post a truckload of parts all at once.

[Frank ZX]

The cab is taking shape. I got a new water pump for my supercharger heat exchanger. This thing moves huge amounts of water. The heat exchanger holds 5 gallons of coolant and it's worked very well the the old water pump. I always had super cool IAT temps and I'm expecting near ambient (I said near) IAT. This water pump should do it. Remember I'm going to run 20lbs boost. Up from 11-12 lbs boost.
I finally got the cams degrees in. 8 degrees retard on the left bank and 6 degrees retard on the right bank. I got 110.25 and 110.00 left and right. The cams are for a naturally aspirated engine. From everyone I talked to said you dont want boost going out the exhaust so going around 6 degrees retard helps. The cams sound very unique and I love the sound.
I finally got the Tilton pedals and there everything I expected. Atleast 15lbs lighter than the factory pedals and there closer together.
Im taking the quick change rearend to Rob at No Limit one day next week to be fitted to the new chassis. This is going fast!
Im so freaking excited!!!

[Frank ZX]

Here's the new balanced engine with Manley H beam rods and JE forged pistons. It has a billet oil pump, slightly ported heads and MMR billet timing chain tensioners.
It should make 700HP to the tires. If not, very close;) depending on the dyno which I dont really believe in dynos.
There nothing more than a tool for tuning.
I live in a rural part of Georgia. I've always found a safe spot to go WOT in 3rd gear to do my tuning, responsibly;)

[Frank ZX]

I've also locked the cams to do away with the variable cam timing. Before now I had 20 degree limiters on the cams.
Between the VCT and cams installed straight up the motor made too much torque on the bottom end and power signed off too early. This cause traction issues out of a turn. We're hoping the bottom end still makes good power but peaks in the mid range to topend.

[Frank ZX]

My cab is ready to block sand but before I paint the cab I'm going to mock the Tilton pedals.
The firewall is weak from the factory. I had a piece of 3/16 steel behind the dash supporting the factory pedals. This time I'm cutting a section of firewall out and welding a thicker piece of sheet metal and a doubler with some bracing. My spot weld cutter broke. I cant believe the factory put this many spot welds in.

[Frank ZX]

I thought someone would have commented by now.
You guys are hard to impress. Lmao!
I have the pedals mocked up and A doubler on the firewall tacked in. I decided against cutting the old firewall for 2 reasons. 1 it a template to drill existing holes that will have to be drilled out and 2 it has a tiny bit of support.
I think I'm going to make another doubler but smaller for inside and a 3/16 plate for the under hood part of the firewall. Then I have to come up with a way to support the pedals to the steel lower part of the dash.
I think my wife is getting me a TMI dash pad.
I'd like to make some carbon fiber door panels to match the instrument cluster.
I just got the Munssey Speed pieces. There are beautiful.
Gauge cluster and headlight bezels. I'm waiting on 3 more gauges.
All this work should reduce the weight by I'm guess 500 lbs. Maybe more if I'm lucks.
The new pedals are 3 inches shorter just like I wanted.
I'm thinking about building a support for my heals?
Thoughts?

[Sbeck09]

I held back on commenting so I didn't look like your only groupie. Trust me, I'm watching very closely. Haha

One thing I've always hated about aftermarket pedals is how I can't rest my heels. So I vote yes on the heel plate. Any plans for a dead pedal too? Sooooo helpful for autocross.

Also, I'm beyond jealous of all your carbon. They make gorgeous parts. Unfortunately I have to live vicariously through you since nobody makes carbon parts for my truck. I'd love to see you make door panels so I can learn and try to replicate the process for myself.

[Frank ZX]

I held back on commenting so I didn't look like your only groupie. Trust me, I'm watching very closely. Haha

One thing I've always hated about aftermarket pedals is how I can't rest my heels. So I vote yes on the heel plate. Any plans for a dead pedal too? Sooooo helpful for autocross.

Also, I'm beyond jealous of all your carbon. They make gorgeous parts. Unfortunately I have to live vicariously through you since nobody makes carbon parts for my truck. I'd love to see you make door panels so I can learn and try to replicate the process for myself.
Yes I'll come up with some sort of a dead pedal.
The Tilton pedals are great quality for the money and the pedal pads kinda match the Ford Racing control pack gas pedal.
The factory pedals on my truck were way too long. I rebuilt the old pedal assembly with ball bearings and all but something just wasnt right as far as ergonomics. The pedals were too far apart for one.
I lowered the seats (Corbeau forza) which made a better seating position better but it made the pedals even more awkward.
Every vehicle I own has its steering wheel angled to the left, off centered. That bugs me. I'm going to try and get the steering wheel centered and hopefully the driving ergonomics the way they should be. I've searched for racing ergonomics information but I haven't found any real information.
A heel plate looks easy enough to fabricate.
And thanks for being my only groupie. Lol

[Frank ZX]

Sbeck09, the 67-72 F100 door panels are flat so I only need a sheet of carbon fiber. Everywhere I've found sheets of CF the price is outrageous. I've found CF fabric fairly inexpensive. I've never worked with the stuff. Maybe I'll order some fabric and try my hand at it.

[Sbeck09]

I'm not surprised that you can't find much about racing ergonomics. Its all dependent on type of racing and the driver. Every car I've ever build required the driver to be in their gear in the seat before we could setup anything. Obviously there are some rules pertaining to cages and safety equipment, but overall it's all about a good fit.

My door panels are flat too. I was going to just use sheet aluminum, but now you have me thinking about making carbon. I saw a video somewhere of a guy that makes flat carbon panels on a slab of granite with mold release put right on top. Seemed to work well since it's smooth as glass and perfectly flat.

[Frank ZX]

I have the timing cover installed. Next the oil pan and its ready for the supercharger and intake. I should get it back from Department of Boost any day.

[Frank ZX]

I'm not surprised that you can't find much about racing ergonomics. Its all dependent on type of racing and the driver. Every car I've ever build required the driver to be in their gear in the seat before we could setup anything. Obviously there are some rules pertaining to cages and safety equipment, but overall it's all about a good fit.

My door panels are flat too. I was going to just use sheet aluminum, but now you have me thinking about making carbon. I saw a video somewhere of a guy that makes flat carbon panels on a slab of granite with mold release put right on top. Seemed to work well since it's smooth as glass and perfectly flat.

Probably the way I searched it. I'll talk to Rob about it.
Any advise is welcome!
I did get my son to sit in the truck for his opinion of the seat to steering to pedal position. We agreed the drivers seat needs to be moved inboard a couple inches.
The shifter was a reach but I had the power to run a autocross course in 2nd gear so I started and stayed in 2nd. Boost is awesome!!!
I dont have alot of racing experience. This is my first year autocrossing. The only other racing if done is drag racing and a few sportbike trackdays.
Setup is all new to me except the little I've learned this year.

[Sbeck09]

We agreed the drivers seat needs to be moved inboard a couple inches.
The shifter was a reach but I had the power to run a autocross course in 2nd gear so I started and stayed in 2nd. Boost is awesome!!!
I dont have alot of racing experience. This is my first year autocrossing. The only other racing if done is drag racing and a few sportbike trackdays.
Setup is all new to me except the little I've learned this year.

Glad you were able to test fit with him. I made the same observation on my truck. The driver seat seemed to be pushed way over by the door. Must be a Ford thing. I'm going to move everything about 2 inches closer to center. You seem to have the right idea. For me it will buy more space between the cage and my arm too. And good point about the shifter. I'll make a custom rod if I have to in order to get it closer. Some longer courses need shifting. I had my engine builder setup my motor to go up to 7k rpm to help give me that last 100ft to avoid some shifts as well.

Funny how something as simple as an autocross drives such a desire to change so much, isn't it? I remember after my first couple autocrosses I was beyond hooked! Whatever you do....don't go to a track day. Your wallet will cry in agony and it's even more addicting.

[Frank ZX]

Yes, autocossing is expensive enough. I'll probably do a trackday or 2 eventually.
I went to No Limit Engineering yesterday to drop off the quick change rearend. Rob builds some amazing chassis and parts. I didn't want to leave. Lol
On my way home my brother in law told me Astro Performance shipped the TR6060 transmission to his business. Also Red Robert's shifter came along with the wheels from Schwartz Performance. Thanks Dale!
I picked up a new sponsorship with Competition Clutch. I'll be running their twin disc ceramic clutch and flywheel!
Life is awesome!

[Frank ZX]

335/30ZR19 mounted on the XXR531 19x11 wheel

[Sbeck09]

Congrats on the sponsorship! I need some of those.

Nice choice for the transmission. I am kinda kicking myself for not paying the $400 extra to jump from my TKO600 kit to a T56. I'm blaming it on weight savings. Haha.

I LOVE the wheel choice too! That's going to look so gorgeous. Get them mounted!

[Schwartz Performance]

Cool build Frank! Glad to have helped it along :)

-Dale

[Frank ZX]

I was looking for a 5 speed, not 6 speed. It's what was offered and I'm thankful even if it is a little heavier

[Frank ZX]

Cool build Frank! Glad to have helped it along :)

-Dale

I was really wanting a Forgeline wheel but it's just not in my budget right now. I seen your ad and it is a good looking wheel for the money! Thanks again!!!

[Frank ZX]

The engine is done except valve covers, sensors and a few small details.
The supercharger and intake are on the way.
Can you hear me making motor noises. Lol

[Frank ZX]

The firewall is coming along. I used panel bond and tack welding the edges. I'll use steam sealer too. I really need a 110v welder for sheetmetal.
This is the factory firewall brace. I'm going to try and widen it just so it looks somewhat the factory part. It's supposed to brace the firewall but in reality it's a joke of a brace.
I cut my thumb pretty good last night on a head gasket of all things.

[Frank ZX]

i just found you on Insta. Can not wait for the frame to get here.

Me too. Forgive me for not acknowledging your comment.
Between this damn truck, the family and aurthuris I have a hard time keeping up. Lol

[Chad-1stGen]

Cool build! Love seeing anything old muscle out autocrossing. If I can ask, why did you pick those tires?

[Frank ZX]

Cool build! Love seeing anything old muscle out autocrossing. If I can ask, why did you pick those tires?

Well, I was looking for the widest tires possible. I had the money during the Black Friday sales. I had my heart set on 335/30ZR18 Rivals. I stumbled across these Nittos very cheap and also the 19x11 wheels cheap.
It's a starting point.
I'm going to have too much power for my driving capacity. Lol
The way I see it is this set of tires will not last long at all.
This build is costing me everything. I'm willing to race any event and drive to them all. I'm hoping some wheel/tire choices jump out at me:)
We will see.

[Frank ZX]

Plan B. Firewall is rigid enough.

[Frank ZX]

Originally, I built a 460 and a Toploader 4 speed for the truck. I used 4 bathroom scales on each corner putting the truck together the first time.
I sat a bare 460 block bolted to the Toploader and right away I known it wasnt going to work.
Long story short, I cut the firewall flange off way back then to move the engine back as far as possible.

[Sbeck09]

Long story short, I cut the firewall flange off way back then to move the engine back as far as possible.

Funny you mentioned that. I was just looking at the same thing on mine wondering if it was worth the effort to cut it off. Got any photos of how you did it?

[Frank ZX]

Funny you mentioned that. I was just looking at the same thing on mine wondering if it was worth the effort to cut it off. Got any photos of how you did it?

I'll take a picture where I cut the flange today for you.

[Frank ZX]

Here's another blast from the past and before I discovered autocross. It was naturally aspirated, 281 cu inches and made 332hp to the tires. It was slow but sounded good.
I was spanking my buddies stroked windsors. Lol

[Frank ZX]

I forgot to mention I had nitrous on my truck at one time too. I hated waiting on the bottle getting up to temperature especially in the winter. I had every automatic nitrous piece their was, window switch, bottle pressure switch, WOT switch, etc.. I still didn't like waiting. The supercharger was awesome, is awesome. BTW, Department of Boost is sending it next week. I think the intake manifold is going to be red and the blower white. Red, white and blue motor!
We'll see how it looks. It maybe hideous but then again, it's a in your face truck. Lol J/K.
Check out the red bench seat. It looked good but it was dangerous. My wife said there's nothing to hold on to while we were driving on some curves.
Then I switched to a set of BMW bucket seats. Not much better and extremely heavy. They were from a 750i. Best I remember there were 17 electric motors per seat and 2 ecms per seat! I stripped everything out but they were still very heavy.
3rd seats and what I'm reusing is the Corbeau Forza. I love these. I know there's better seats out there but this is the best I know of. Its sites much more low and aggressive.
I had 2 stereo amps under the seats. There not going back in so that means I'm putting the seats right on the floor.
I'm hoping for the perfect ergonomics.

[Frank ZX]

SBeck09,
Here's a picture of the firewall where I cut the flange off.
It's only the drivers side flange that's in the way of moving the engine aft.
Is it worth the effort to move the engine back 1 inch? Probably not but the way I see things is improving this a little bit and improving that a little bit before you know it you have a pick up truck that works pretty good so I say it's worth it:)

[Frank ZX]

Here is the flange removed.

[Frank ZX]

I could spend weeks getting this thing perfect but ultimately it's a driver. I've spent my entire day getting the firewall and drivers door area as clean as possible.
It's not perfect but then again this is a driver/racer.
Bodywork isn't hard at all, it's time consuming.
If your lazy, you'd better hire someone. I now know why a professional paint and body shop would quote $10K to paint a vehicle.

[Frank ZX]

Golden Monkey vs Franklin F100. I always win;)

[Frank ZX]

Bodywork

[Frank ZX]

Maybe like this:)

[Sbeck09]

I love the red, white, and blue color idea for the motor!!! 'Murica colors never look bad when it comes to car parts. Haha.

Firewall is looking really nice as well. Should help that V8 beast pop. Hopefully mine comes out about as good.

Thanks for the flange pics. Looks like you just stitched it together and seam sealed it? I'll probably do that too, but I want to see how the bell housing fits first. I might be cutting more than just that.

[Frank ZX]

I love the red, white, and blue color idea for the motor!!! 'Murica colors never look bad when it comes to car parts. Haha.

Firewall is looking really nice as well. Should help that V8 beast pop. Hopefully mine comes out about as good.

Thanks for the flange pics. Looks like you just stitched it together and seam sealed it? I'll probably do that too, but I want to see how the bell housing fits first. I might be cutting more than just that.
That right, I just welded it together and smeared some seam sealer on.
Your bell housing will fit fine. The back of the head is what will contact the firewall flange first.
I had thought about cutting more of the firewall and getting it under the windshield but that's alot more work plus legroom is already limited.

[Frank ZX]

I got the firewall painted. Turned out pretty good for a newbie painter.

[bbalch404]

Nice! The paint and body work is the part of my build that scares me the most!

[Frank ZX]

Nice! The paint and body work is the part of my build that scares me the most!

It scares me too. Lol
I've used a gallon of primer and 1/2 gallon of body filler on just the cab. No it's not full of filler, it's just my learning curve. I've wasted alot of material learning.
There maybe 2 cups of body filler on the cab and the primer is thin where I've sanded so much.
I think it will look decent:)

[SonomaZ]

I love where and how this build is going.
Some people (probably not here) might deride the "cheap wheels" but my experience with two sets of XXR's on street beaters has been very favorable.
They've seen plenty of rough roads, potholes, etc. Conditions I probably wouldn't want to subject a pricey set of Forgelines to, even though they're stronger.
Are your Forzas fixed or do they have sliders? I need to make some interior / ergonomic decisions fairly soon.
I say go for it on the engine setback. The more the better.
Keep on truckin'!

[79 Camaro]

Body work is time consuming. I painted my C10 last winter. Pulled out all the dents and dings with a stud puller. Then skim coated everything and sanded 99% of that off. Then a coat of sprayable polyester filler. Sanded most of that off. The then two rounds of 2K primer. First one sanded with 180 and the second sanded with 320. Previous to this I'd never done any body work before. I was being supervised at a local body shop. It's funny how the professional body guys make it look easy. It's hard dusty work.

Good luck with your project.

[Frank ZX]

I love where and how this build is going.
Some people (probably not here) might deride the "cheap wheels" but my experience with two sets of XXR's on street beaters has been very favorable.
They've seen plenty of rough roads, potholes, etc. Conditions I probably wouldn't want to subject a pricey set of Forgelines to, even though they're stronger.
Are your Forzas fixed or do they have sliders? I need to make some interior / ergonomic decisions fairly soon.
I say go for it on the engine setback. The more the better.
Keep on truckin'!

Thanks! The XXR are decent but ultimately I'm doing alot of upgrades so nice wheels are on hold for the moment.
I have a set of Enkei RPF1 I just bought over the summer.
I'm changing wheel bolt pattern from 5 on 4.5 to 5 on 4 3/4.

[Frank ZX]

Body work is time consuming. I painted my C10 last winter. Pulled out all the dents and dings with a stud puller. Then skim coated everything and sanded 99% of that off. Then a coat of sprayable polyester filler. Sanded most of that off. The then two rounds of 2K primer. First one sanded with 180 and the second sanded with 320. Previous to this I'd never done any body work before. I was being supervised at a local body shop. It's funny how the professional body guys make it look easy. It's hard dusty work.

Good luck with your project.

Thanks! My buddy has gave me pointers here and there.
I have the upmost respect for a real painter.
I got the cab sprayed tonight. It was getting late and the fumes were making me kinda sick feeling so I shut it down for the night. Yes, I had a respirator with new filter on. Lol
I snapped a couple pics before I came inside from my shop. Its satin black so it looks to have a very slight texture. Not orange peel but kinda like sandpaper.
Maybe it will look different in the morning.

[Frank ZX]

I love where and how this build is going.
Some people (probably not here) might deride the "cheap wheels" but my experience with two sets of XXR's on street beaters has been very favorable.
They've seen plenty of rough roads, potholes, etc. Conditions I probably wouldn't want to subject a pricey set of Forgelines to, even though they're stronger.
Are your Forzas fixed or do they have sliders? I need to make some interior / ergonomic decisions fairly soon.
I say go for it on the engine setback. The more the better.
Keep on truckin'!

Oh, the Forzas are fixed but they are on Corbeau sliders and adjustable lumbar support.
You have a few options when ordering from Corbeau.
They sit really nice.

[79 Camaro]

I had a 67 Nova painted with SEM hot rod satin black. The painter said it was a pain to spray to get even coverage. It was a single stage paint. The cool thing was you didn't have to ever wax the car. Just wash and dry. Spot cleaning with Windex.

[Frank ZX]

I had a 67 Nova painted with SEM hot rod satin black. The painter said it was a pain to spray to get even coverage. It was a single stage paint. The cool thing was you didn't have to ever wax the car. Just wash and dry. Spot cleaning with Windex.

I painted my hood with SEM Hot Rod black! This Summit brand satin is identical or atleast it looks to be identical.
Well, my paint job does have a texture. I think I had a couple issues with too much air pressure and holding the gun too far away. Oh well, it was a expensive less but I don't give up easily.
I'll sand it down and spray it again tomorrow.

[79 Camaro]

Mine had some orange peel but not too bad. The cool thing is that I had more positive comments on that paint job than any of my other cars I've done that had really great lazer straight paint jobs.

You know how most people would not actually touch a really nice paint job? So many people would walk up and touch the satin black paint job. Don't know why they just did.

[Frank ZX]

Waiting on the No Limit Engineering chassis and the supercharger (gonna be white).
I got to figure out where to cut the hole for the steering column. I'm thinking higher than the factory location?

[Frank ZX]

I was just informed the valve covers have to be painted white. The supercharger is going to be blue with white stars. Stay tuned;)
The NEW intake is red.

[Frank ZX]

I made a little more progress. I'm working on the steering column now. I moved it up and over a couple inches.
I have the master cylinders almost done.
I painted the valve covers white.
Jason Etter from Department of Boost said he had the supercharger airbrushed yesterday. I can't wait to see it.

[SonomaZ]

That is going to be one heckuva patriotic engine.
I can hear the bald eagles from here.
'MURICA!!

[Frank ZX]

That is going to be one heckuva patriotic engine.
I can hear the bald eagles from here.
'MURICA!!

This whole build has changed up numerous times. The engine colors weren't the original plan but Department of Boost has helped me out alot. Jason suggested the colors and he's supplying the TVS so I'm gonna rock it! Lol

[Frank ZX]

Pedal placement is extremely critical to to me. I've centered the pedals and steering column up but I feel I'm missing a important detail. I'm all ears if someone has any suggestions.

[Sbeck09]

Pedal placement is extremely critical to to me. I've centered the pedals and steering column up but I feel I'm missing a important detail. I'm all ears if someone has any suggestions.

What do you feel like you're missing when you sit in there? I'd make sure that it's easy to Heel-Toe and also verify that you like the height from the floor before locking it down permanently.

From my keyboard it's looking fantastic. And I do like the white valve covers better than red for some reason. Can't wait to see that airbrush job!

[Frank ZX]

Maybe their at the correct height. Where I had the gas pedal and where I'm holding it in the picture is about 5 inches higher than it was.
The pedals are about 3 inches shorter.
The gas pedal is drive by wire and very short throw. The gas pedal doesnt pivot on the pad like some vehicles.
I need to mount it at a angle, off the top or fabricate a stop.

[Frank ZX]

The floor area where the seats mount are a challenge to mount my Corbeau seats. I'm fixing this issue with a new cab crossmember and a flat area.

[Sbeck09]

The floor area where the seats mount are a challenge to mount my Corbeau seats. I'm fixing this issue with a new cab crossmember and a flat area.

Good bit of extra work, but I'm sure well worth it in the end. You making custom seat mounts straight to the floor?

[RobNoLimit]

As we watch Franklin's Effe is going through a huge makeover, I thought I would share the anatomy of the chassis with you. 67-72 Ford are coming on strong, so to keep up with demand, we added these to our lineup last year. After gathering info and buying two trucks, we went though the development stages and into a short run for the first chassis. This is our second short run (5 chassis each) and we only see one or two minor tweeks. (cosmetic). The geometry we got. sometimes there are improvements to be made in rail shape and porting to help with production and assembly.

Rails start in flat form. We use blocking spacers to hold the rail panels parallel. The blocking also adds considerable rigidity to the rail. It is about 250% stronger in 'twist' than a hollow fabricated rail. Then the second panel is added. We have a squaring fixture for this, so that the two panels are aligned and held parallel. Also done in the squaring fixture is the 'banding' process. This is where the top and bottom of the rails is added and tacked. The banded rails then go into a welding fixture that presses the rails flat during the welding process, and finally, it's off to the grinding room to be ground and finish sanded.

[RobNoLimit]

Building a production chassis is not that hard. - But getting to the production point is a mountain to climb for sure. Each piece fits into the chassis fixture and is located with pin holes, clamp locations and spreader bars. The fixture carts are first leveled and locked down, then the corresponding stands are bolted in place. And finally, we can start to add in the chassis components. Most of our chassis are built with "three piece rails". Front, Mid, and Rear. The front and rear are fabricated rails, and the mid rail if rectangle tubing. In this case, 2" x 6" x .188" wall. Believe it or not, we can keep a three piece rail assembly much straighter than a one piece rail. Our goal is to have a finished chassis be +/- .030" at any point. The seam from the mid rails to the front or rear is an overlap on three sides, and a butt weld on the inside. Adding dimension to the weld joint makes it a stronger section than the surrounding rails.

[RobNoLimit]

The X-member goes in next. It is assembled like an erector set, and then drops into the chassis. The X incorporates the Trans mount plat (added later) and is ported for exhaust, as well as fuel and brake lines. Our fixtures also hold in the Rear four bar mounts, cab and core support mounts and front bumper stubs. While in the fixture, things like the Panhard rod chassis mount, Upper Coil-Over mounts and fuel line tabs are also added. One all of the parts are in, there are two rounds of measuring and tightening bolts and clamps. We use a sign-off sheet for every chassis, for each check measurement. And Finally, it gets welded. About 80% of all assembly welding will be done in the fixture before the chassis is pulled. Then it will be flipped over and the bottom side will be finished.

I'll post up some more in the 2019. It's looking like an awesome New Year for this F-100.

[Sbeck09]

This is really fascinating. Thank you for sharing this process Rob! I have always thought the rails were done as one long square tube on each side, not a fabricated piece. Very interesting.

Frank, didn't think it was possible, but now I'm even more jealous and missing my '69.

[2ndroundko]

This is going to be an amazing build. looks like your spending the money where it matters let the guy with the 10k paint job admire your diy tailgate lol.

[Frank ZX]

The X-member goes in next. It is assembled like an erector set, and then drops into the chassis. The X incorporates the Trans mount plat (added later) and is ported for exhaust, as well as fuel and brake lines. Our fixtures also hold in the Rear four bar mounts, cab and core support mounts and front bumper stubs. While in the fixture, things like the Panhard rod chassis mount, Upper Coil-Over mounts and fuel line tabs are also added. One all of the parts are in, there are two rounds of measuring and tightening bolts and clamps. We use a sign-off sheet for every chassis, for each check measurement. And Finally, it gets welded. About 80% of all assembly welding will be done in the fixture before the chassis is pulled. Then it will be flipped over and the bottom side will be finished.

I'll post up some more in the 2019. It's looking like an awesome New Year for this F-100.
This is great news!!! I have the trailer hooked up to my truck ready to pick it up. Lol
I probably can't sleep tonight or tomorrow night for the excitement. I can't wait to pick it up:)

[Frank ZX]

I haven't been on here in nearly a week. Kinda bummed out my truck isn't ready but now that Rob has shared pictures of the progress, I feel alot better!!
I painted the truck 3 times and it still hasn't turned out like I'd like. I've literally went through a gallon of paint on the cab and enough sandpaper to sand 10 cars. I have a cheap set of FinishLine spray guns and the paint just doesn't look good. I can't get enough paint to come out of the gun. I have adjusted the air pressure from 10psi to 50psi. The paint guns just don't work good. I'm going to buy a better spray gun tomorrow and try again.
I ended up stripping the cab down 100%. I filled the cowl panel and a few more holes in the firewall including the holes where the headlight harness passes thru. I also welded bolts to the firewall to attach the Ford Racing drive by wire gas pedal. That all turned out pretty good.
The other issue I'm having is the Ford Racing control pack.
The fan circuit has a 70 amp relay and a 40 amp fuse. Originally I installed a Ford Performance GT500 upgrade electric fan. Long story short, the fan draws over 70 amps on startup. That burned the circuit board and melted the fan relay to the printed circuit board. Dunne Rite Performance makes the control packs for Ford. Dunne hasn't been heard from and the printed circuit board isn't available but Hopefully Ray at F.P. has found me a new board. In the mean time I unsolidered the relay and soldered wires to the board and Installed a remotely located relay. The relay pigtail was $90!!! from Napa. It has 2 huge pins and 2 normal pins. I found the housing and terminals on Ebay for $36. Cheapest I could find.
I got a Kicker compact sub for Christmas. It weighs 9lbs compared to the 40lb sub and box that was in there.
I welded brackets to mount the sub vertically between the seats.
The floor is done. It only lowered it about 3/4" but its relatively flat now and the cab crossmember is now square tube and ultimately it saved a pound or 2.
I also filled a hole in the dash where the pervious owner drilled a hole.
I'm done rambling now. Lol

[Frank ZX]

I had a guy practically beg me to sell my cams which were naturally aspirated cams. I got a set of
Cushman stage 3 blower cams to replace the Comp cams.
Heres a better shot of the firewall.

[Frank ZX]

This is going to be an amazing build. looks like your spending the money where it matters let the guy with the 10k paint job admire your diy tailgate lol.

Lol, yea! Performance has been my goal and it keeps getting better. If I had 10K more, I'd buy lighter wheels before a high end paint job:)
Nothing wrong with nice paint though!

[Frank ZX]

Good bit of extra work, but I'm sure well worth it in the end. You making custom seat mounts straight to the floor?

I have a slightly different outlook on the effort. Nothing wrong with how either one of us view the efforts. Lol
The cab is a few inches shorter and the seats were way too tall from the factory. I want to be in a seating position similar to a Corvette. Maybe that's not a good example but low as possible.
I cut the stamped steel cab crossmember out and welded 2- 1×1 square tubes under the floor at the front.
The rear seat mounts will attach to some of the factory cab crossmember but I added a little more material for solid attach points. On the your question, yes the seats will bolt directly to the floor but then pass thru the crossmember.

[Frank ZX]

This is really fascinating. Thank you for sharing this process Rob! I have always thought the rails were done as one long square tube on each side, not a fabricated piece. Very interesting.

Frank, didn't think it was possible, but now I'm even more jealous and missing my '69.

It's always possible when you set the bar high and never give up on your goal.
I have to admit thou, Rob put the chassis idea in my head.
I met Rob at a autocross in Kentucky over the summer and asked him to ride in my truck. I wanted advise on suspension adjustments on my diy chassis. My truck was a handful of power and I just couldn't get it to all workout.
People would comment "your fighting that around the course", and I was.
The look on Rob's face. He basically told me the chassis was at its limit and it pretty much was.
Don't get me wrong, it was alot of fun.
A couple months later I seen Rob again and That's when we decided to put his chassis under my truck. That very moment I knew my truck would ride and handle like never before!
I had already been talking to Jason Etter about a bigger supercharger. I got 3rd place at the Autocrossguys.com event. By the end of the day I had a brand new plan. Sell off as many parts as I could and put the chassis first on my list of improvements.
The new engine and transmission all worked out so now it was just improving everything else. I cut the excess wiring from the harnesses, rerouted wires to eliminate clutter and excess weight. Probably grams lighter, but grams equal pounds.
My son came over New Year's and he said ,Dad, I'm kinda glad you dont have your new chassis yet cause you wouldn't be working on the wiring and body, you'd be putting it back together already. Lol
My point is set the bar and everything will fall into place. If not, raise it higher;)

[Frank ZX]

Rob, Now the Extraordinary Excitement has reached a plateau I can actually read and somewhat comprehend what you've wrote about the chassis. Lol
I had no idea you used a 3 piece frame rail but it makes perfect sense now. When I boxed my old chassis in it moved so much I had to fabricate a spreader bar to get the front bumper on. And that was not putting much heat in one area. Its amazing how you can make a small piece of metal move from just putting heat on one side of it.
The process you use building chassis makes me think my old chassis was tweaked more than I thought.
Nothing wrong with people building their own parts and all but it just proves there is no replacement for a professional built chassis.
Here's the new Munssey Speed and Design carbon fiber gauge bezel. I've ordered the other carbon fiber interior bezels to for the heat/AC controls and radio.
I'm sending the glovebox door to him to wrap in cf too.

[Slick68]

Looking great, Frank!!! Looking forward to ripping up some courses together this season!

[Frank ZX]

Thanks Matt. I'm missing everyone already.

[Frank ZX]

I finally got the paint looking decent. I'll probably have to repaint the roof but I'm going to wait til it's on the chassis.
Hopefully I'll pick the chassis up this coming up week.
https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/bo78U

[Frank ZX]

I made a good bit of progress on the bed today. Tomorrow I'm going to start widening the wheel tubs and more filling.
Naca ducts were bolted onto the side of the bed to force air thru the bed mounted heat exchanger. There is a dedicated water pump that circulates coolant to the supercharger only. My new Stewart EPM HAS TWICE the volume. The silver tank in the bed is thendegass.thisnandbwmtwicenthenboost sets everyon2nq0qrt

https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/boTtn
https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/boqJ3
https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/bosyc
https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/boddt
https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/boIxa
https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/bokOK
https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/boYPk
https://www.hostmyjunk.com/image/boADG

[Sbeck09]

Is that bed cover all aluminum sheet with aluminum channel to support it underneath? What thickness of sheet did you use? I need to make something like it, but I'm not sure what to use yet.

[Frank ZX]

Is that bed cover all aluminum sheet with aluminum channel to support it underneath? What thickness of sheet did you use? I need to make something like it, but I'm not sure what to use yet.

Its 3mm Alumilite. Aluminum sheets sandwiching polycarbonate. I used aluminum angles for supports. It hinges to access the bed and heat exchanger.

[Frank ZX]

Insulated the cab and running wires. My goal is to drive it in 2 weels. The pressure is on.

[Frank ZX]

I made a cab/bed lifter from some gym equipment I couldn't give away. I attached it to my engine hoist.
Today I'm converting my bed from a 70-72 to a 67-69.
The bump going down the side doesnt extend to the very back. In 1970 they put a marker light at the very end of the bump. I have a junk 1968 bed. I'll cut the piece out and weld it in place. I'll post pics later.

[Frank ZX]

One side done. I'm going fill the stake pockets on top of the bed rails and mold in the naca ducts. I dont think I explained the naca ducts. The heat exchanger is just a big truck radiator but down with aluminum tanks. I have aluminum tubing that transfers coolant from the supercharger to the heat exchanger mounted in the bed. I got tired of people asking me why I relocated the radiator to the bed. LOL
Anyway, the naca ducts fill the surrounding area of the heat exchanger. I think it looks cool and so far Its done a good job of keeping the IAT nice and cool.

[Frank ZX]

Here's where the naca ducts will get graphed in.

[Slick68]

Nice progress, Frank! Where did you get the Alumalite for your bed cover?

[Sbeck09]

I've always liked your Naca duct idea there. Can't believe I haven't seem more of them used similarly on truck builds with rear radiators.

Also funny that you are closing up those stake pockets. I was just thinking about that myself.

[Frank ZX]

I've always liked your Naca duct idea there. Can't believe I haven't seem more of them used similarly on truck builds with rear radiators.

Also funny that you are closing up those stake pockets. I was just thinking about that myself.

You do know it's not a radiator in the bed?

[Sbeck09]

You do know it's not a radiator in the bed?

Haha yes. Usually it is, but in your case I'm aware that it's the supercharger heat exchanger.

Btw I like the bed mod to smooth the side. Looks better already.

[Frank ZX]

She's loaded up in route to Rob's No Limit Engineering Friday!!!

[Sbeck09]

Woohoo! That's freaking exciting! I don't know how I would get any sleep if I was you.

[Frank ZX]

Woohoo! That's freaking exciting! I don't know how I would get any sleep if I was you.

I didn't sleep very well. Lol
I still have to button the motor up (sold the cams and waiting on new cams) and bolt the transmission up, and strap it all down. I've very excited.
I got some other exciting news yesterday too. I don't want to jinx myself so I can only say shocks at the moment:)

[Frank ZX]

Here's a couple teasers;)
I'll post more details later. It was worth the wait!!!!!

[Sbeck09]

My god that stance is incredible!! I bet you can't wait to get it home. Looks insanely rigid too. Congrats man. This should make for a fun season for ya.

Are you going to have to remove the floor of your bed now?

[Frank ZX]

My god that stance is incredible!! I bet you can't wait to get it home. Looks insanely rigid too. Congrats man. This should make for a fun season for ya.

Are you going to have to remove the floor of your bed now?

The bed floor will have to be raised. I have a couple ideas..
I may put Lexan in the floor. I have thought of a nice aluminum flatbed too. Lol

[RobNoLimit]

What an awesome day. Friday Jan 11. SOme people were asking, "Why are going to take the cab/motor/trans to be 'fitted'" Well, we've done some Bump-side fords, and we bought a few to measure and test. But, we've never had a 3 valve mod motor in one. SO, flanklin was going to bring a trailer to pick up the chassis anyway, so wee figured why not bring the big pieces and we'll fit them to make sure it's all good.

The rear axle showed up from Winters on Thursday. So we started putting the mounts on it. It takes a few hours to weld, to be sure not to overheat and warp a tube. So, we didn't get the axle under the chassis until Friday morning. Flanklin showed up around 9:30 and we we're already movin at full speed. Quick Change axles are a fair amount bigger than a 9" or 12 bolt, so, our normal top truss doesn't clear. We knew this, so we did not install one in the fixture. Once the rear axle was under the rails, we started building a tube top truss. While doing so, I was pondering a solution for the panhard rod. While Johnny was working on the truss, Seth was swapping from the OE motor mount pods to our No LImit MOD adapter plates. *** the block mounting holes on the pass side are different than Coyote or 4 valve. So, Seth measured out and drilled a new hole in the mount plate, and then added the hole to our FlowJet program. (now we know it is good for the older MOD motors) The MOD adapter plates use standard SBC side mounts. We chose to install urethane due to the boosted torque. The oil pan was a little deeper than a 5.0 pan so took the rib out of our modular engine truss plate, made sure the clearance was good, and welded it in. By this time I had a solution cooked up for the Panhard rod and went to work. Truly a 'one-off' part, I have never done a "Hoopy-Bar" before. Works perfect and clears through 6"+ travel. To use the OE TR-6060 trans mount required a custom trans mount plate. Measure, Program, Cut, Done. And, we have a finished roller. It was about 3:45pm.

[RobNoLimit]

We had to 'Bend it'. So we set it up on our test rig to see how rigid it is. We test the twist at three load levels. 1. Bare chassis under it's own weight. 2. Torque bar added, = appx 180 lbs force through the CL. and 3. Add weight to make 1000 lbs load through the CL. Our results were .2 degrees, .5 degrees, and 1.2 degrees respectively. An OE chassis will net appx 1.4, 3.1, and 9.3 degrees (average of 3 tested) It was a "Cheers" moment. This is the second most rigid chassis we have built/tested. ** a 1948 Studebaker chassis we built tested .00, .20, .70. It had a 9" sorter wheebase, one addition crossmember and our standard top truss over the axle) So this is pretty freekin awesome. We put the wheels on, some difficulty with 5/8" rear studs and the front lug nuts, but we got it good to go home. The we set in the motor trans combo and then the cab. The cab needed a trim out for the shifter, and to have a small floor brace (not stock) removed. All mounts and bolt holes were perfect. Then, we stared at it for a while and drank some beers. It was a great day for sure.

[Sbeck09]

Did you guys happen to measure how much ground clearance there was at ride height between the frame and ground?

[SonomaZ]

Oh my lordy yes.
Ladies and gentlemen, you have now entered, the truck porn zone.
The hoopy bar panhard is bizarro artwork. I love it all.

[Frank ZX]

Did you guys happen to measure how much ground clearance there was at ride height between the frame and ground?

I haven't measured it but I will.
I'm certain there is more ground clearance than before.
With my old chassis I couldn't load it on my trailer without driving the rear wheel of my tow truck onto blocks.
Rob's chassis rolled right onto my trailer.
Ground clearance is very good.

[Frank ZX]

Rob and his guys are amazing. I would stroll around outback of Rob's shop or look around at all the cool cars and parts in his shop. I'd then glance back at my chassis and dayam!, More fast progress!!!
Keep in mind now, I've been turning wrenches for 30years.
I'm not easily impressed and when I am impressed its sure enough first class work!
When I chose No Limit to do my chassis I knew it was going to be first class!
I had the chassis stripped completely in maybe 2 hours. I spent most of the day preparing the raw metal. This gave me a chance to look over every joint, every weld and just gaze in amazement. I decided to paint the chassis in Clear Diamond direct to metal paint. Yea, it's pretty enough to just clear the chassis plus I really like to be unique.
I painted all the rear bars Viper red so it will really stand out. If the chassis was just okay it would have been painted black:)

[Frank ZX]

Oh my lordy yes.
Ladies and gentlemen, you have now entered, the truck porn zone.
The hoopy bar panhard is bizarro artwork. I love it all.

Thank You! It wouldn't have been possible without Rob and his guys.

[Frank ZX]

Chassis is cleared. I like the Clear Diamonds paint.
I painted the Fat Bars and panhard bar viper red and the rearend metallic silver. I think it will look good when it's back together.

[Slick68]

Interesting choice to just clear coat the chassis.

[Frank ZX]

Interesting choice to just clear coat the chassis.

Matt, I'm a interesting dude!!! Lol

[Frank ZX]

Here's my rig to center the caliper bracket. 1/8 fitting and blow nozzle. I filled the caliper with air to apply the brakes and then tightened the bracket.
I placed the rear calipers forward and down as low as possible.
I signed up for USCA in April. I think I can make it.

[Sbeck09]

I've done that to weld on new caliper brackets for an IRS car. Works super well. Good thinking! And I'd be amazed if you weren't able to make it to USCA at the pace you're going.

[Frank ZX]

I've done that to weld on new caliper brackets for an IRS car. Works super well. Good thinking! And I'd be amazed if you weren't able to make it to USCA at the pace you're going.

I hope so and thanks for the compliment!
Here's the right rear done. Turned out decent considering there old dirt track calipers.

[Frank ZX]

Rear brake lines are done. I suck at bending tubing but it's safe and won't leak.
The custom rear lug nuts should be here next week.

[Schwartz Performance]

Looking great! Are the Winters hubs aluminum?
Did you have to open up the lug nut holes in the XXR’s for the 5/8 studs?

[Frank ZX]

Looking great! Are the Winters hubs aluminum?
Did you have to open up the lug nut holes in the XXR’s for the 5/8 studs?

I think the hubs are some sort of steel. They are light thou and screw in wheel studs.
We drilled the XXR lug holes for the 5/8 studs. There isn't enough material to open the wheels for a socket to pass thru. I had 2 choices. Buy a second set of hubs with press in studs and replace the studs with 1/2" studs or have custom lug kits made. I choose to have the lug nuts made.
10 lug nuts......$340, OUCH!!!

[RobNoLimit]

Call Winters and see what they say. They may have an answer. They have 5/8" nuts that fit in a 7/8" socket. They also may have a hub with a 1/2" stud.

[Frank ZX]

Call Winters and see what they say. They may have an answer. They have 5/8" nuts that fit in a 7/8" socket. They also may have a hub with a 1/2" stud.

I'll call them Monday.
It's the little things that make the No Limit chassis head and shoulders above the rest. This is my opinion. I'm very pleased.
Rob welds the mounts for fuel and brake line bulkheads.
I used panel bond on convoluted tubing to protect from chaffing. Rear brake lines are 99% done. I ordered a few 1 1/4 aluminum clamps from Summit to attach the brake lines.

[Frank ZX]

I've been working on the truck alot. I've relocated the ecm, and the brake lines and fuel lines are ran. Supercharger will be here tomorrow. The only other parts I'm waiting on is the Competition Clutch clutch and flywheel kit and the QA1 MOD shocks. It should be running in about a week.
I'm trying to come up with the funds for a set of Forgeline wheels.
I'll post more later:)

[Angry]

Love the pics n cant wait to see more progress....

Hope you sort the vertical iamge issue,...your killin my neck,,,

Id love to have one of Robs chassis under my F100........sadly freight n registration rules here prevent me goin that route

[Frank ZX]

Love the pics n cant wait to see more progress....

Hope you sort the vertical iamge issue,...your killin my neck,,,

Id love to have one of Robs chassis under my F100........sadly freight n registration rules here prevent me goin that route

Thank You!!!
The imagining thing I'm sorry about. I literally work on this truck from daylight to dark trying to finish it. I slow down long enough to eat and sleep.

[Frank ZX]

I am sorry for the sideways pictures. I have a mutant form of psoriasis arthritis. When I get still for any period of time my joints get stiff and very painful. I wake up in the mornings extremely sore and barely able to walk. Even buttoning my pants and dressing is Near impossible.
The more I move around the better I feel, to the point I'm nearly pain free.
That's where this truck comes in. I work on it constantly. From the time I wake up til time to eat supper and go to sleep. I never slow down long enough to get on a computer. All the posting is from my phone either early in the morning or right before bedtime. I am sorry about the pictures. I'll try and post them straight.
Enough about me, lol
The truck, well its come along ways in a short time. I'm finishing the wiring up and little odds and ends.
The brakes are done for the time being. Rob from No Limit sent me a brake set up to save me some money. Im supposed to send him the No Limit hubs back in exchange for the complete front brakes. I've been dragging me feet because I love the hubs. I think I'll probably end up paying him for the hubs and later on going to some sort of a 13 inch front brake setup.
The exhaust is another temporary setup. The headers didn't fit so I took some cheap shorty headers and rerouted 2 tubes on both sides to get me by until next winter. I may try and build my own headers then or get someone to build me a set. I did my own pipes to save a buck too. Luckily, the No Limit chassis requires the exhaust to run straight making it super easy to run the exhaust. I would have liked to put a X pipe in but I'm limited to what I can do at home.
2.5" pipe into 3 inch Magnaflows. Very simple.
I hid most of the engine harness under the supercharger intake manifold. That was a pain in the a##. I had to unwrap the harness and extend a couple ground wires to the ECM.
My aluminum driveshaft worked perfectly.
The power steering pump interfered with the chassis. There are 2 sets of mounting holes for the PS pump. Maybe a truck vs Mustang configuration?
Anyways, I used the lower set of mounting holes but then I had pulley interference so I made a 3/4 spacer to move the pump outboard. I also converted the belt pulleys from 6 rib to 8 rib. I had a hard time finding the correct 8 rib pulleys. The AC compressor pulley wouldn't fit over the field coil so I had to swap to the later model AC field coil which requires the later model AC plug. No big deal, it's just part of Hot Rodding. I love it!!!
Now on to the serpentine belt. They get expensive in a hurry especially when its 136 inches long or atleast that's what I ordered. I'll find out in a few days.
And the wheels didn't fit quite right so I bit the bullet and ordered a set of 18x12 Forgeline!!! Derek made me a great deal. They should be here in about 2 weeks. I also got a set of BFG Rival 335/30XR18. I got lucky and sold my other set. I'm very excited to put them on.
I've been trying to do some work to raise awareness about psoriasis arthritis and arthritis in general. I got a call Friday.
I'm probably going to put "The National Aurthuris Foundation " decal on my truck in hope to give this all a purpose. It's something no one can truly understand. There are 10K kids in Georgia and 300K kids in the world suffering from this disease. I hope some of those kids can find something they are passionate about to ease what their going thru. My truck is what keeps me going. As long as I'm having fun, I'm thriving.

[chevelletiger]

I was really wanting a Forgeline wheel but it's just not in my budget right now. I seen your ad and it is a good looking wheel for the money! Thanks again!!!

What brand of wheel are They?

[Jaymzz]

Truck is looking good!
I also have psoriatic arthritis and it kicks my ass on a daily basis. I work from the time I wake up to the time I crash at night due to it because if I stay moving it doesn't hurt as bad.

[Frank ZX]

What brand of wheel are They?

The wheels are XXR. I sold these wheels and Forgeline GF3 will be here anyday.

[Frank ZX]

Truck is looking good!
I also have psoriatic arthritis and it kicks my ass on a daily basis. I work from the time I wake up to the time I crash at night due to it because if I stay moving it doesn't hurt as bad.

So you know! I was diagnosed with this disease in 2007. All was good until I had some bone spurs removed in my elbow in 2017. My elbow was draining. The doctors failed to inform me I had staph infection. My elbow got so big it burst open. I was in the hospital for a week and they were contemplating removing my arm. Thank God they didn't.
After I got the PIK line removed, that's when everything got bad. My ankles were swollen huge. I went back to work for a couple months. I went to every medial specialist in my area including a holistic doctor. Finally went to Emory university and they discovered the Mutant form of psoriasis arthritis. I went to the Mayo clinic for a second opinion.
Be careful not to get any injuries that require surgery.

[Jaymzz]

I kept going to the doctors for random pain all over my body and they deemed me a hypochondriac and kept trying to give me pain pills. Specialist after specialist and finally got a rheumatologist that diagnosed me and talked to me about diet and the very harsh drugs they give people for it. Diet helps to take the edge off but don't do the drugs they offer!!!! I consider it a work yourself to death disease. lol

[Sbeck09]

Standing by for that first start video......

Also cool choice in wheels. Can't wait to see how it all looks down on the ground.

[Frank ZX]

I kept going to the doctors for random pain all over my body and they deemed me a hypochondriac and kept trying to give me pain pills. Specialist after specialist and finally got a rheumatologist that diagnosed me and talked to me about diet and the very harsh drugs they give people for it. Diet helps to take the edge off but don't do the drugs they offer!!!! I consider it a work yourself to death disease. lol

Yes, I agree on the drugs. I do take Cosentex injections to slow the progression of the mutant. It eroded some joints in a hurry. It desolves bone fast. My fingers are slightly shorter and Im almost 2 inches shorter. No joke.
In some extreme cases, ive seen some peoples hands where thay have no bones left in their fingers. Only tissue.

[Frank ZX]

Standing by for that first start video......

Also cool choice in wheels. Can't wait to see how it all looks down on the ground.

It almost ready to start! I finished up last night hooking the air conditioning hoses up. I have a few valve cover bolts left and the heater hoses. Oh, and wrap the wires with thermo sleeving where they pass close to the headers.

[Frank ZX]

I found spark plugs for $8 each on Amazon! That's extremly cheap. This engine has a funky 2 piece spark plug thats notorious for breaking if you let carbon build up on them. HT0 Autolite.
Amazon sent me a message saying the seller cancelled my order. Must have been mispriced.
I had a 25% off coupon at Advance auto parts.
8 plugs list for $125!

[Frank ZX]

I was surprised when I got home yesterday. 2 huge boxes on my walkway. I thought what the heck is that and then i seen FORGELINE! I hobbled out to my shop to grap my hand trucks. They fit beautifully!
Im going this morning to get the tires mounted.
And the MOD shocks will be here Thursday!
Im waiting on the clutch kit and thats it!
Well, I do have to fit the fenders and bed to the tires.
Rob MacGregor gave me a great idea on flairing the fenders and bed sides if I need more clearance.
Here's the wheels mocked up:)

[Frank ZX]

Quick update. Wheels and tires are mounted. I did a QA1 MOD shock video of Facebook live. The shocks are very cool. I have to flip the rear shocks upside down to clear the remote reservoirs. The bed is temporarily on. Widening the bedsides.

[Billf67]

Great build! Love that you went with the 3v instead of the usual coyote or 4v swaps as that's the same path I am going on my project. May have missed it in the thread but what harness are you running for it?

[Jetfixr320]

Yes, I agree on the drugs. I do take Cosentex injections to slow the progression of the mutant. It eroded some joints in a hurry. It desolves bone fast. My fingers are slightly shorter and Im almost 2 inches shorter. No joke.
In some extreme cases, ive seen some peoples hands where thay have no bones left in their fingers. Only tissue.

Frank

Is this caused by the disease?

[Frank ZX]

Great build! Love that you went with the 3v instead of the usual coyote or 4v swaps as that's the same path I am going on my project. May have missed it in the thread but what harness are you running for it?

I'm using a 2009 Mustang GT engine harness with a Ford Racing control pack.
The 2005-2007 engine harness won't work.

[Frank ZX]

Frank

Is this caused by the disease?

Yes. I don't really understand it completely.
I was diagnosed with psoriasis arthritis since 2007 or 2008. I had some bone spurs removed from my elbow which got infected. After a second surgery and a PIK line, something triggered my body to attack itself. The injections suppress my immune system. I rarely get sick.

[Frank ZX]

I haven't posted in a while. The bed is done. The doors are painted. I still have to paint the front fenders and inner fenders.
My tuner in Venezuela has sent me the start up tune..
I remote tune with Lito who specializes in these Mod motors. After a idle data log, the next tune will be very conservative. Ill drive around normal speeds and data log.
Then I'll run the truck at WOT in 3rd gear to redline while data logging. Then finally, I'll get a real tune.
This is about like a dynoshop without a dyno. Lol

[Frank ZX]

The naca ducts turned out good. I forgot to mention i had to widen the bed sides too.
He's a picture of my rt hand. I took this last night. Notice my index finger and ring finger. Believe it or not, once they deform slightly they don't hurt as bad. Lol
Craziest thing ever.

[Frank ZX]

It's coming together now. I painted the last few parts this morning!
Power coated the once chrome pieces gloss black.
So the doors and fenders are on. I'll probably paint my old grill gloss black and carbon fiber headlight bezels.
The lower radiator hose should be here tomorrow and Ill fire it off.
If all goes well I'm driving it to Coker Tire in Chattanooga Tennessee Saturday!

[Sbeck09]

Holy crap I can't wait! You better make a first start video and then try to catch that cam lope after it warms up.

Funny thing too that I just realized...you have the RXT clutch and I just ordered an RST for mine. I hear nothing but great things about them.

[Frank ZX]

Holy crap I can't wait! You better make a first start video and then try to catch that cam lope after it warms up.

Funny thing too that I just realized...you have the RXT clutch and I just ordered an RST for mine. I hear nothing but great things about them.

Whats the difference in the RXT and RST?
I called McLeod and told them I street drive and autocross the truck. And it was around 700 to the tires. This was what he recommended.

[Frank ZX]

I powdered coated all the chrome trim including the vent window trim. Getting the glass out of frame wasn't too bad. I used a heat gun and barely and I mean bare leveraged the glass with a small flat blade screwdriver. I got a little bit of movement and i kept putting lacquer thinner between the frame and glass to soften the sealer.
Well, the sealer is something I've never heard of. It's Galss Setting Tape. 1/16X 1 1/2" and my brother in law just happened to have a roll. I notched the curve in the tape. I use electrical tape to temporarily hold the glass tape to the glass. A fine film of motor oil and it went right in place.
I still have to trim the excess.
My grill emblem turned out okay. Carbon fiber wrapped the inner part and powder coated the outside.

[Sbeck09]

Whats the difference in the RXT and RST?
I called McLeod and told them I street drive and autocross the truck. And it was around 700 to the tires. This was what he recommended.

RST is rated 800hp vs RXT is rated 1000hp. The only difference is the friction material. Sounds like they set you up right.

[Frank ZX]

I got the frontend mostly assembled. Gas in the tank, radiator filled and all other fluids full.
The Munssey speed carbon fiber is awesome.
I wanted to comment on the No Limit chassis, the body lines up so much better than the factory chassis.
I put the correct length QA1 coilover springs on. 14 inch in the rear and 12 inch on the front. That was a challenge. Lol
I will drive it today or tomorrow.

[RobNoLimit]

I feel like I have to throw out an "Atta-Boy" here. This started as a discussion last year in Louisville at the NSRA Nats. Firmed up right after SEMA and the tear down started early November. We got Franklin's chassis done in mid January, and he said is goal was the Summit Auto-rama in April. - a lofty goal. Chassis swap, motor build, trans swap, re-wire, body work, wheels, ............. basically a full new build. (not the original plan, but you know how it goes) You may have noticed, Franklin just keeps workin. Motor part not here, I'll work on the body. Wheel issue, I'll start wiring..... he doesn't quit. And the result, looks like he'll be driving very soon. That's how you do it folks, head down, ever forward. Great job buddy!

[Frank ZX]

I feel like I have to throw out an "Atta-Boy" here. This started as a discussion last year in Louisville at the NSRA Nats. Firmed up right after SEMA and the tear down started early November. We got Franklin's chassis done in mid January, and he said is goal was the Summit Auto-rama in April. - a lofty goal. Chassis swap, motor build, trans swap, re-wire, body work, wheels, ............. basically a full new build. (not the original plan, but you know how it goes) You may have noticed, Franklin just keeps workin. Motor part not here, I'll work on the body. Wheel issue, I'll start wiring..... he doesn't quit. And the result, looks like he'll be driving very soon. That's how you do it folks, head down, ever forward. Great job buddy!

Thanks for the compliment Rob! Once I commit to something I follow through. Hot Rodding is not easy but it's fun! Especially the end result.
I fired the truck off Sunday. I tryed to get it running all day Saturday but one problem led to another. Cheap AN fuel fittings leaked, started, heat exchanger water pump, etc.
My tuner says I have some coil issues but when i check DTC, I'm not seeing a problem on my end. Lito is in Venezuela and I'm not even sure he knows english. Lol
He can tune the hell out of a MOD motor.
I called Mo's Speed shop in Dallas Ga. Marty the owner is some big lawyer and Jeff runs the business. Jeff dynoed the truck 2 years ago when it was naturally aspirated. It made 332hp to the tires. Everyone was shocked a 300hp advertised motor made that much power.
Anyway, Marty and Jeff are excited to tune the truck tomorrow morning. They are scratching my back and I'm pimping Mo' Speed Shop. Lol
I just want to say the No Limit Engineering chassis is super awesome. The bed fits to the cab nice and tight. There was a big gap with the stock chassis. I forgot to mention when the truck was on 4 jack stands while on a creeper I accidentally pushed a jack stand out of place. Once I got past the freaked out mode thinking the truck is going to fall on me, I played around sliding the stands out.
My floor in my shop is pretty unlevel and I could nearly slide 2 stands out from under the truck on opposite corners! I love this chassis! The QA1 MOD shocks are very nice too. QA1 send me another set of valves to go in the shocks for USCA a week from Friday!
I kinda stepped my goals up. Originally, my goal was Motorama but now Its Daytona in 10 days. I have a little more assembling but I will make it.

[Motoracer838]

basically a full new build. (not the original plan, but you know how it goes)


Funny how that works...

Joe

[WILWAXU]

Awesome truck!

[Frank ZX]

The shocks and chassis are incredible. I'm down on power. It made 496 to the tires. OUSCA in 3 days!

[Frank ZX]

I made it to Daytona Ultimate street car Association.
I had alot of issues. No reverse lights, no horn and no 4 way flashers. That was minor.
The ECM shut down because of a possible short in the engine harness. The supercharger bypass was stuck open so I was down on power. It made 496 to the tires with 11 psi of boost.
That was all straightened out and were working on the tuneup now. I'm still expecting 700rwhp.

[Sbeck09]

What's a first event without some hiccups? Haha. Congrats on getting it together so fast! I've always wanted to run on Daytona.

[Frank ZX]

What's a first event without some hiccups? Haha. Congrats on getting it together so fast! I've always wanted to run on Daytona.
That's right. I knew to expect problems. Some are sorted and some persistent. The good news is, It makes way too much horsepower for autox! Can't believe I just said that.
Rob MacGregor and Keith Crogan both drove it. The power delivery is insane right off idle and goes straight up to 6K rpms. It's definitely making 700hp to the tires and maybe more. The reason for only 496hp was I had the boost bypass valve misadjusted which was only allowing 11 psi of boost. I readjusted the bypass valve and replaced the bypass actuator to match my cams already low vacuum and that put me at about 15psi. Maybe 16 psi.
Then I switched the blower pulley from a 3 inch to 2.75 inch pulley. It's taken me and my tuner up til now to get the tune sorted out. We started over twice. Friday night he told me to record data in 3rd gear from 2K to 6K rpms..
Oh my gosh!!! It pulled so hard I was afraid the driveshaft was going to twist into a pretzel. Lol
I wasn't expecting it to go from one tune that felt good to the next tune slightly scarring me:)
Rob told me I have to do something about the hard and sudden hit of power. That a great problem to have😁
Now the not so great problem to have. My power steering system has gave me issues from the very beginning. The pump has had a whine since I first started the new engine.
Cruising around it did fine but at Daytona and Atlanta Motor Speedway it's puked ps fluid every time at high rpms. The past 2 days its been busting ps lines over and over again. Yea, it busted the hard lines on the steering rack too. The ps feed hose to the pump gets so hot, it melted the resivor.
I drove it to the track this weekend. On my way home I smelled something so I pulled over and found the fittings melted loose from the resivor. I was tired, sore and broke so I said screw it, Im driving it home. As long as the pump doesn't lock up Im okay. Now I know the pump is toast.
I spent the morning washing the chassis up and I'm about to take the whole power steering system off. It's all shot.
Rob said he would make me a aluminum resivor. I'm going to make a big and long return line. Probably go with bigger pressure hoses too.
I emailed KRC to see if he has a possible budget pump or a valve kit I can install in a reman pump.
This little 4.6 revs fast and fairly high. Im afraid the fluid flow is too much?

[Frank ZX]

I forgot to mention, even thou the power delivery is too much, I discovered running the entire course in second gear was better. I wasn't thinking and accidentally shifted to 2nd gear and decided to stay in 2nd. It was much more tame and still had enough power to break the 335 rivals loose on demand. I love it!

[Motoracer838]

Too much power, what a problem to have... Too cool, hope to see it in Optima's coverage...

Joe

[RobNoLimit]

Remember, pioneers have to pave the way. Not too many Bump-side Touring Trucks - yet. The P/S issue will be solved by following a process. Slow and steady planning. The pump RPM needs to be in range. The #6 feed to the rack is good. The rack input and return fittings must be secure. Since there are no #8 or 1/2" return fittings for those racks, you can start with a #6 and transition to a #8. A good free flowing cooler (I have also used PH8A filters in the past on remote mounts - after the cooler - to calm the fluid) and a LARGE reservoir. Then a #10 or #12 feed to the pump. We are all asking a LOT from our P/S systems, and overkill here pays off. BTW, Corey Ivey had a spot on track where his P/S would fade (exit of the doughnut after a tight full 360) we felt it a few times, we think the reservoir ran out of fluid (OE reservoir). This will be solved and then it will be a non-issue from there on. I had fuel and P/S problems with the HellBoy as well. No big deal, just work the problem.

The truck felt great on track. I was really hoping to get a bunch of laps for shock and suspension tuning but that's life. There will be other days. Smooth steering and a calm linear throttle will make this F100 bad ass. Won't be long. Keep at it.

[Frank ZX]

Remember, pioneers have to pave the way. Not too many Bump-side Touring Trucks - yet. The P/S issue will be solved by following a process. Slow and steady planning. The pump RPM needs to be in range. The #6 feed to the rack is good. The rack input and return fittings must be secure. Since there are no #8 or 1/2" return fittings for those racks, you can start with a #6 and transition to a #8. A good free flowing cooler (I have also used PH8A filters in the past on remote mounts - after the cooler - to calm the fluid) and a LARGE reservoir. Then a #10 or #12 feed to the pump. We are all asking a LOT from our P/S systems, and overkill here pays off. BTW, Corey Ivey had a spot on track where his P/S would fade (exit of the doughnut after a tight full 360) we felt it a few times, we think the reservoir ran out of fluid (OE reservoir). This will be solved and then it will be a non-issue from there on. I had fuel and P/S problems with the HellBoy as well. No big deal, just work the problem.

The truck felt great on track. I was really hoping to get a bunch of laps for shock and suspension tuning but that's life. There will be other days. Smooth steering and a calm linear throttle will make this F100 bad ass. Won't be long. Keep at it.

You are the man Rob. Thanks so much for taking the time to explain this stuff to me and helping me get the truck sorted out!
I have a bad habit of overthinking these little problems.
The pump internals look great which really surprised me.
I took it apart out of curiosity. No metal particals and no real wear.
I'm going to reuse the pump and do what you said with the lines.

[tsoptich83]

Man I have to say this is a beautiful rig. I love the bump side fords. The chassis is art for sure.

[Frank ZX]

Man I have to say this is a beautiful rig. I love the bump side fords. The chassis is art for sure.

Thanks!

[brawls43]

New favorite truck! Nice work, looks like fun!

[1972Mach1]

Loving your truck. If I didn't have a bunch of other cars that need attention and I could just focus on it, I'd build my '74 just about like this. Very cool!

[rixtrix1]

Great build, Frank. Just finished going through it since finding it late last night.To get the truck up and going in the short time frame is phenomenal. Good to see you working through your pain! I have some kind of arthritis in my lower back and hands and find that keeping moving really helps, plus I try to do 5-10 minutes on my inversion able every day. Kudos to NoLimit for speedy, quality work! Thanks for sharing and the link from CAM Nation!

[Star427]

What brand of steering column are you using

[Frank ZX]

Thanks for the compliments guys.
I finally got the anodized red stage 2 intake manifold from Department of Boost! This intake is 2 pieces. The thermostat housing is seperate from the intake. Coolant Inlet and and outlet are 1.250 NPT!!!
The entranceway out of the supercharger has a nice big radius so Im sure it flows better and makes more power. Estimating horsepower at 783 to the tires. It's a beast.
I just got a even bigger heat exchanger water pump and a bigger throttlebody is on the way. There is no telling how much HP it's capable of. A humble guess is 800 to the tires.
I went to Pigeon Forge this weekend to the F100 Reunion truck show. Curious about engine RPMs and different mph I got up to 90 mph and guess what happened..blue lights😑
Yep 91 in a 55 zone. There were no entrances to the highway and a stretch of straight road and zero traffic.
Hopefully, I can get the speed reduced.
This brings up another thought. Remember I remote tune. Lito wants a 4th gear run to 6K rpms. There's no way I can do this on a public highway. Maybe I can find a dragstrip that will let me get a running start to record engine data.
Were not done tuning.
So, When i have the engine RPMs up high and suddenly let off the gas the supercharger doesn't slow down as fast as the engine. The belt slips and I think its causing the belt tensioner to jump and the belt to whip.
It's destroying belts. Yesterday on the way home a belt took out my power steering pressure hose. I was about 100 miles from home. I had to drive it home like this. The ps pump didnt make any noise at all but it must have locked up and the power steering shaft broke 29 miles from home.
Long story short, I still have some issues to sort out but man, I love my old truck😀

[the dan]

Things sweet!

I'm not shooting anyone down, but take a look at electric power steering.

I havent tested mine 100 yet but if you do some research you can adapt a Newer MR2 toyota pump with great results. At idle: so far: it has the same ease as my KRC did. EVERY time i went to the track i blew a KRC cap apart and boiled it over. I have a C5 Rack, a large 2 row cooler, and a 6.5" pulley on the pump and i was never satisfied. KRC said i needed to slow it down more for the track... but it wasnt very good at idle as is. So i added a larger res, new cap and blew that cap off too. Thats when i decided it was time to look elsewhere.


Just food for thought. They have a reluctor AC sensor built into them that lowers the draw when its not being used, and also lowers the draw on high speeds since you dont need a pump when youre going fast. like i said i dont have road testing yet but i will keep you updated

[Frank ZX]

Things sweet!

I'm not shooting anyone down, but take a look at electric power steering.

I havent tested mine 100 yet but if you do some research you can adapt a Newer MR2 toyota pump with great results. At idle: so far: it has the same ease as my KRC did. EVERY time i went to the track i blew a KRC cap apart and boiled it over. I have a C5 Rack, a large 2 row cooler, and a 6.5" pulley on the pump and i was never satisfied. KRC said i needed to slow it down more for the track... but it wasnt very good at idle as is. So i added a larger res, new cap and blew that cap off too. Thats when i decided it was time to look elsewhere.


Just food for thought. They have a reluctor AC sensor built into them that lowers the draw when its not being used, and also lowers the draw on high speeds since you dont need a pump when youre going fast. like i said i dont have road testing yet but i will keep you updated

Yes, please keep me updated. I haven't posted in a little while. My power steering issues seem to be eliminated but I am interested in the electric PS.
My current issues are the upper and lower control arm bushings. The shoulders have broken away from the polyurethane bushings allowing the control arms to move fwd and aft. I'm confident the power steering fluid from previous leaks has made the poly bushings brittle. Rob is sending me new bushings. I'm glad because I can't find this size control arm bushings anywhere. I do understand there probably No Limit issue only or atleast prioritize. Probably spelled that wrong but you know what I mean.
Back to the steering rack, I found a 2003 Mustang Cobra steering rack from Cardone. It's taken over a month to get it. Supposed to be here today. Supposedly there were 400 spare units built. From my research they offer better steering feel. Now, I just have to figure out if its going to work. I used a 1/2 aluminum return line routed from the pump across the core support and back to a aluminum resivore. The aluminum resivore didn't have a vented cap. I drilled and tapped the cap to take a 1/8 npt to 1/8 hose barb fitting. It seems the aluminum tubing and vented cap worked! One other thing I did was vacuum bleed the power steering system with a power brake bleeder. It seems these Ford's are hard to get all the air out of the system.
QA1 invited me to Road America to do the Ultimate Street Car Association event in August!!! I'm very excited about my 2nd OUSCA event. I hope this event is successful.
Daytona was very intimidating and they say Road America is another very fast track. I guess Im jumping into this sorta quickly but the good thing is I have alot of respect for my truck. It is making a ton of power. Rob MacGregor quote, too much power or atleast it comes on like being shot from a cannon. I dont remember if I told anyone on here but I did get the Gen 2 Department of Boost supercharger intake. It flows much better.
Oh yea, When we initially tryed to tune the engine, the twin 66mm throttlebody didn't work so we installed a GT500 throttlebody to get it running. I later found a used Kennebell Mammoth throttlebody (twin 75mm) and it lasted maybe 3 days before it went into a failsafe idle only mode. Literally had the truck packed up headed for Concord NC for the Hot Rod Power Tour. Damn!!!
My only choice was go to Summit Racing and buy a $650 throttlebody (I destroyed the GT500 tb). I bought a Ford Racing twin 65mm tb, got it installed and on my way to NC to start the power tour. Now keep in mind the tuneup is all screwed up. It's a rich pig. But it's running and safe to drive.
I got to NC and decided to run it down the dragstrip just to see what it would do. I got staged and when the last yellow light went out I nailed the gas and come off the clutch. Spun alittle in 1st gear and I heard a snap. You guessed it, the supercharger belt broke. I still drove it hard as I could. Ran a 14.01 at 98mph with no belt. Lol
It should have been atleast a 11.00 even setup for the road course. The power steering pump bolts had backed out OR I didn't tighten them. Atleast I had a spare belt!
Moral of the story it if you want to go fast, It's going to be expensive. I love it and wouldn't have it any other way.

[Frank ZX]

The last picture was taken in Virginia. The QA1 crew and myself had stopped at a gas station for a drink and to fill up. Some locals wanted to see us drive away and being the showoff I am��, I stomped the gas and slideways we go. It was like someone reached over and turned the ignition off. I coasted to the side of the road into a shopping center parking lot. It wasn't 20 seconds and people are pulling in to help. First one on the scene was Jacob from Hot Rod magazine!!! He isn't afraid to work. The ECM has a led light showing the fuel pump has power but my fuel pressure gauge read zero pressure. Someone called Holley at the venue to see if they had a pump. Anyways, We pulled the pump out of the tank and luckily the pump had came unplugged. Back on the road thanks to great hot rodders everywhere!!!

[brawls43]

Road America is a super fun track! You won't be disappointed if you make the trip. Its a great track for cars with power. Not as fun with little momentum cars.

[Frank ZX]

I made it to Road America. It was a blast over all.
I'm about to purchase QA1 .500" longer ball joints to inprove roll center and hopefully get the steering wheel to self center after a turn. 6 degrees positive caster isn't helping so far. Hopefully its the stock ball joints too tight.